From time to time, TV channels tell us how a whole house or part of it suddenly collapsed somewhere. We do not want to scare you, as idle TV people do. But let's say that there is no "suddenly" in the case of the destruction of the building. Any building starts with a foundation and rests on it. If it is not strong enough and moisture resistant, then the house will not stand for a long time. The most common reason for the destruction of the foundation is dampness, moisture, loose and water-saturated soil, heterogeneous soil, the beginning of the construction of a new house or road nearby. It just seems that the foundation is heavy and will withstand everything. No, it is, first of all, a mobile structure that is sensitive to any loads and changes in the environment. Polyurethane mastic will help protect the foundation from destruction.
How to understand that your foundation is in danger
There are several signs that will help identify the problem in the first stage. Usually, thin cracks, spots, mold on the walls inside the house, distortions of door and window structures appear on the foundation, then the exterior finish begins to collapse, the floor is deformed, some parts of the building collapse, the soil falls along the structure. If you notice cracks, then it is worth checking the stability of the base.
The most common problem in Russian latitudes is excess moisture. Usually, concrete is used for the foundation. It is a porous material capable of receiving some water. But if there is too much of it, then concrete can not cope. In addition, moisture can linger inside, freeze and thus destroy the material.
How to save the foundation
The easiest way is to take care of the strength and waterproofing of the foundation, to provide drainage and drainage along the building at the construction stage. The main thing is to make sure that water does not accumulate at the base of the house. If you don’t think about drainage at all, then after a few years the foundation of the house will begin to crack. This happens even with the highest quality materials.
Which waterproofing to choose
There are several basic types of waterproofing. To choose the best option for you, you need to understand what type of soil you are dealing with, how deep the groundwater runs, at what depth the foundation is located, what it is made of, what size the building is.
There is one easy way to check how deep the groundwater goes. In the spring or fall, dig small holes in the area where you plan to build your house. And look at the level of water in them. So you can determine how deep the foundation can be installed.
If you notice that there are a lot of marsh plants and sedges near the site, then the water is close.
We decided to arrange a basement or basement, which means that waterproofing is definitely needed.
Very often in such cases, vertical insulation is used together with bitumen-based roll materials. Another option is coating insulation. In this case, polymer compositions are applied to the surface of the foundation. Some recommend using both for maximum protection.
Polyurethane mastic or bitumen?
There are many types of waterproofing compounds on the market. With the development of the chemical industry, these products are becoming more and more perfect. If earlier it was possible to rely only on bitumen, now there are more durable alternatives to it.
What is the difference between bitumen and polyurethane mastic? Bitumen is one of the oldest building materials available and cheap. Polyurethane mastics appeared on the market not so long ago, but they are distinguished by strength and elasticity, which persists for many years. Bitumen loses these properties very quickly. Its strength lasts for several years, then the physical and chemical properties of the material weaken. Polyurethane mastics can last more than 40 years.
What to choose? If we are talking about large-scale work, then it is cheaper to use bitumen, for example, for the construction and repair of roads. Polyurethane is needed where we are faced with non-trivial tasks. For example, it is necessary to insulate the overpass, foundation, bypass, roof.
How polyurethane mastic interacts with the surface
Polyurethane mastics are easy to apply - with a roller, brush or spatula. The emulsion enters the pores of the concrete, squeezes air out of them and crystallizes. After application, the polymer forms a durable film, which, due to its physicochemical properties, repels moisture.
Polyurethane mastic from Chemtrast
Chemtrast has developed its own polyurethane mastic, which can be used not only for waterproofing foundations, but also for roofs, pools, reservoirs, basements, terraces, balconies, tunnels, as well as under screed and tiles, for repairing old bituminous insulation.
When you work with polyurethane mastic, follow safety precautions, work in a gas mask or protective mask, in special clothing that will cover all parts of your body.
After work, rinse all brushes with acetone, and store the mastic in a tightly closed container so that polymerization does not occur.
Chemtrast specialists are always ready to tell you which polymer is best suited for your purposes. Our warehouses can be found in Novosibirsk, Irkutsk, Yekaterinburg, Krasnoyarsk, Voronezh, Yaroslavl, Nizhny Novgorod, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Samara and Ufa.
A distinctive feature of the tape type foundation lies in its very name. It is a closed circuit - a "tape" (a reinforced concrete strip laid under the bearing walls). Through the use of a strip foundation, the resistance to the forces of heaving soil increases, while the risk of warping or subsidence of the building is minimized.
Strip foundation - photo of a freshly poured structure
It is this foundation that is built on dry or heaving soils. Moreover, the greater the weight of the future structure, the deeper the foundation is laid (sometimes even up to 3 m, depending on the depth of soil freezing and the level of groundwater).
These and other characteristics are regulated by GOST 13580-85 and SNiP 2.02.01.83.
GOST 13580-85. REINFORCED CONCRETE PLATES OF BELT FOUNDATIONS. Specifications. Download file
SNiP 2.02.01-83. FOUNDATIONS OF BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES. Download file
During construction, special attention is paid to waterproofing, since the strength, quality and durability of the structure will depend on it. In the absence of protection, groundwater and precipitation can significantly damage concrete, and the consequences can be the most dire - from permanent dampness to subsidence and cracking of walls. For this reason, do-it-yourself waterproofing of the strip foundation is one of the most critical stages.
Waterproofed foundation - photo
Below is the average depth of soil freezing in different regions. If your region is not in the table, then you need to focus on the one that is closest to the others.
Regardless of the chosen method of isolation (they will be discussed a little later), a number of technical requirements must be followed in the work.
- Be sure to take into account the level of groundwater, because the type of insulation depends on it.
- It is also necessary to take into account the conditions for the future operation of the facility (if, for example, a warehouse is being built, then the requirements for waterproofing will be more stringent).
- It is also necessary to remember about the possibility of flooding during large floods or precipitation (this applies in particular to loose soil).
- The force of "swelling" of the soil during frost also plays an important role (during defrosting / freezing, the structure and volume of water change, which can lead not only to the rise of the soil, but also to the destruction of the foundation).
The main methods of waterproofing
Waterproofing can be of two types - vertical and horizontal. Let's consider each of the options.
Important information! When constructing the foundation, you do not need to save money and abandon the sand "cushion". Sand is needed not only to prevent leakage of concrete, but also to prevent washing out of the structure.
It is performed even during the construction of the foundation, and additional time (15-17 days) may be required for preparatory measures. The main function of such insulation is to protect the base in the horizontal plane (mainly from capillary groundwater). An important component of horizontal waterproofing is the drainage system, which is equipped with a high level of groundwater.
It is worth noting that under the "tape" there should be a sufficiently strong base, on top of which a waterproofing layer will be laid. Often, a “cushion” of a slightly larger width is cast for this than that of the future foundation. In the absence of a need for high quality (for example, if the foundation is being built for a bath), it is enough to prepare a screed of sand and cement in a ratio of 2: 1. In Soviet times, asphalt screed was made, but today this technology is practically not used.
The horizontal waterproofing procedure consists of several stages.
Stage 1. The bottom of the pit, dug under the base, is covered with a sandy "cushion" about 20-30 cm thick (clay can be used instead of sand) and carefully compacted.
Stage 3. When the screed dries (it takes about 12-14 days), it is covered with bituminous mastic and a layer of roofing material is fixed. Then the procedure is repeated: applying mastic - fastening the roofing material. On top of the second layer, another screed of the same thickness is poured.
Stage 4. When the concrete hardens, the construction of the foundation itself begins, the surfaces of which are additionally covered with vertical types of waterproofing (they will be discussed later).
Important information! If the building will be built from a log house, then it is necessary to waterproof the top of the foundation, as the first crown will be installed there. Otherwise, the wood may rot.
Drainage
Drainage may be required in two cases:
- if the permeability of the soil is low and water accumulates rather than being absorbed by it;
- if the depth of the foundation is lower or corresponds to the depth of the groundwater.
The algorithm of actions for the arrangement of the drainage system should be as follows.
Stage 1. Along the perimeter of the structure - about 80-100 cm from the foundation - a small pit 25-30 cm wide is dug. The depth should exceed the depth of pouring the base by 20-25 cm. It is important that the pit has a slight slope in the direction of the water collector, where water will accumulate.
Stage 2. The bottom is covered with geotextile, while the edges of the material must be wrapped at least 60 cm onto the walls. After that, a 5-centimeter layer of gravel is poured.
Stage 3. A special drainage pipe is installed on top with a slope towards the water collector of 0.5 cm / 1 linear meter. m.
Laying pipes on geotextiles and backfilling crushed stone
Thanks to this design, water will flow into the drainage pipe, while it (pipe) will not become clogged. Moisture will be discharged into the water collector (it can be a well or a pit, and the dimensions depend on the inflow of water and are determined on an individual basis).
Prices for a drainage well
drainage well
Vertical waterproofing
Vertical type insulation is the processing of the walls of the finished foundation. There are several ways to protect the base, which are possible both during the construction of the building and after construction.
Table. Strengths and weaknesses of the most popular waterproofing options
Material Operational period Ease of repair Elasticity Strength Cost, per m² 5 to 10 years ★★★☆☆ ★★★★★ ★★☆☆☆ About 680 rubles Polyurethane mastic 50 to 100 years old ★★★☆☆ ★★★★★ ★★☆☆☆ About 745 rubles Rolled bituminous materials 20 to 50 years old ★☆☆☆☆ - ★☆☆☆☆ About 670 rubles Polymer membranes (PVC, TPO, etc.) 50 to 100 years old - ★☆☆☆☆ ★★★☆☆ About 1300 rubles
Inexpensive and simple, and therefore the most popular way to waterproof the foundation. It implies a complete treatment with bituminous mastic, penetrating into all cracks and voids and preventing moisture from entering the house.
Important information! When choosing one or another bituminous mastic, pay attention to the marking - this will help you find out the heat resistance of the material. For example, mastic marked MBK-G-65 has a heat resistance (for five hours) of 65°C, and MBK-G-100 - 100°C, respectively.
Advantages of bituminous mastic:
- ease of use (can be done alone);
- affordable cost;
- elasticity.
Disadvantages:
- low speed of work (requires the application of several layers, which takes a lot of time);
- not the best water resistance (even high-quality application does not guarantee 100% protection);
- fragility (in 10 years you will have to re-treat the foundation).
The process of applying mastic is extremely simple and consists of several stages.
Stage 1. Surface preparation. Below are the basic requirements.
- The surface of the foundation must be solid, with chamfered or rounded (ø40-50 mm) edges and corners. Fillets are made at the transition points of the vertical to the horizontal - so the joined surfaces will be mated more smoothly.
- For bitumen, sharp protrusions are extremely dangerous, appearing where the formwork elements are joined. These protrusions are removed.
- Concrete areas covered with shells from air bubbles are rubbed with a fine-grained cement mortar based on a dry building mix. Otherwise, bubbles will appear in the freshly applied mastic, which will burst 10 minutes after application.
Also, dirt and dust should be removed from the surface, and then dried thoroughly.
Important information! Substrate moisture is a very important indicator and should not exceed 4%. At a higher value, the mastic will swell or begin to flake off.
Testing the base for moisture is quite simple: you need to lay a piece of PE film measuring 1x1 m on the concrete surface. And if there is no condensation on the film in a day, then you can safely proceed to further work.
Stage 2. In order to increase adhesion, the prepared base is primed with a bituminous primer.
You can go the other way and prepare a bitumen primer yourself. To do this, BN70/30 grade bitumen must be diluted with a rapidly evaporating solvent (for example, gasoline) in a ratio of 1:3.
One layer of primer is applied over the entire surface, two at the junction. This can be done with either a brush or a roller. After the primer dries, the actual mastic is applied.
Stage 3. The bitumen bar is broken into small pieces and melted in a bucket over a fire.
It is recommended to add a small amount of “mining” there during heating. Then liquid bitumen is applied in 3-4 layers. It is important that the material does not cool down in the container, because with one more heating, it partially loses its properties.
The total thickness of the waterproofing layer depends on the depth of the base pour (see table).
Table. The ratio of the thickness of the bitumen layer to the depth of the foundation
Stage 4. After drying, the bitumen should be protected, since it can be damaged when backfilled with soil containing debris. To do this, you can use rolled geotextiles or EPPS insulation.
Prices for bituminous mastic
bituminous mastic
Video - Insulation of the EPPS foundation
Reinforcement
Bituminous insulation needs reinforcement on:
- cold seams;
- junction of surfaces;
- cracks in concrete, etc.
Often, fiberglass and fiberglass are used for reinforcement.
The fiberglass material must be sunk into the first layer of bitumen and rolled with a roller - this will provide a tighter abutment. As soon as the mastic dries, the next layer is applied. It is important that the fiberglass material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm on both sides.
Reinforcement will provide a more uniform distribution of the load on the entire insulation strip, minimize the elongation of bitumen in the places of cracks and, as a result, significantly extend the service life.
fiberglass prices
fiberglass
It can serve as both the main protection and addition to the applied bituminous mastic. Usually ruberoid is used for this.
Among the advantages of the method should be highlighted:
- low cost;
- availability;
- good service life (about 50 years).
As for the shortcomings, this can only be attributed to the fact that one cannot cope with the work alone. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.
Stage 1.
Unlike the previous method, there is no need to carefully apply the material, since the mastic is needed solely for attaching the rolled waterproofing to the base.
Stage 2. Using a burner, the roofing material is slightly heated from below, after which it is superimposed on a layer of hot bitumen. Sheets of roofing material are joined with an overlap of 10-15 cm, all joints are processed with a burner.
Stage 3. After fixing the roofing material, you can fill up the foundation, because additional protection is not required here.
Important information! Roofing material can be replaced with more modern materials that are welded onto the base. These can be polymer films or canvases with bitumen-polymer coating (for example, Izoelast, Technoelast, etc.).
Prices for roofing material
ruberoid
Video - Waterproofing with roofing material
This method is extremely simple to perform and is used for waterproofing and leveling the foundation surface. Here advantages of plaster waterproofing:
- simplicity;
- high speed of work;
- affordable cost of materials.
Disadvantages:
- low water resistance;
- short service life (about 15 years);
- possible cracks.
There is nothing complicated in the application process. First, a putty mesh is attached to the foundation with the help of dowels, then a plaster mixture with hydro-resistant components is prepared. The mixture is applied to the foundation with a spatula. After the plaster has dried, the soil is poured.
In fact, this is a dispersion of polymer-modified bitumen particles in water. The composition is sprayed onto the base, providing high-quality waterproofing. Advantages this method are as follows:
- high quality waterproofing;
- no need for special skills;
- durability.
But there is also limitations:
- high cost of the composition;
- low speed of operation in the absence of a sprayer.
In addition, liquid rubber is not available everywhere. For the foundation, the same type of composition, which can be of two types, is quite suitable.
- Elastomix - applied in 1 layer, hardens for about 2 hours. Further storage after opening the package is not subject to.
- Elastopaz is a cheaper option, but it is already applied in 2 layers. What is characteristic, Elastopaz is subject to storage even after opening the package.
Stage 1. The surface is cleaned of dirt and debris.
Stage 2. The foundation is covered with a special primer. Alternatively, a mixture of liquid rubber and water (1:1 ratio) can be used.
Stage 3. After an hour, when the primer dries, a waterproofing material is applied (one or two layers, depending on the type of composition). It is advisable to use a sprayer for this, but you can use a roller or brush instead.
liquid rubber prices
liquid rubber
Video - Processing the base with liquid rubber
Penetrating insulation
On the base, previously cleaned of dirt and slightly moistened with water, a special mixture (Penetron, Aquatro, etc.) is applied with a sprayer, penetrating into the structure by about 150 mm. It is important that the solution is applied in two or three layers.
Main Benefits:
- effective protection;
- the possibility of processing surfaces inside the building;
- ease of operation;
- long operational period.
Disadvantages:
- low prevalence of such solutions;
- high price.
Making a clay castle
A simple, but at the same time effective way to protect the base from moisture. First, a foundation pit is dug around the foundation with a depth of 0.5-0.6 m, then the bottom is covered with a 5-centimeter gravel or crushed stone "cushion". After that, clay is poured in several stages (each layer is carefully compacted). The clay itself will act as a buffer against moisture.
The only advantage of the method is the ease of implementation.
Clay castle is suitable only for wells and household facilities. If, for example, we are talking about a residential building, then this method can only be used as an addition to the already existing waterproofing.
This method of protecting the base appeared relatively recently and is as follows: mats filled with clay are nailed to the cleaned surface of the foundation using a mounting gun or dowels. The laying of mats should overlap, by about 12-15 cm. Sometimes special clay concrete panels are used instead of mats, in which case the joints must be further processed.
Overlap - photo
In principle, screen insulation is an improved version of a clay castle, therefore it can only be used for household structures.
Summing up. Which option to choose?
The optimal option for waterproofing a strip foundation should include both horizontal and vertical waterproofing. If, for one reason or another, horizontal insulation was not laid during construction, it is better to resort to bituminous mastic or special plaster. But, we repeat, it will be most effective only in combination with horizontal type protection.
The foundation serves as the basis for the house, and the life of the entire building will depend on its integrity.
The concrete foundation is constantly exposed to the harmful effects of precipitation, sunlight, cold. This leads to chipping and shedding of the outer layer of cement, reducing the strength of the foundation. It is easiest to protect it with the help of special compounds.
The dye for concrete has good vapor permeability, does not let moisture inside. These requirements are met by water-dispersion and organic dyes.
Coverings for the foundation are decorative, protective, mixed. The type of paint is chosen for specific operating conditions.
In a warm, dry climate, protection is not needed for areas of the far north, and this is a saving in materials. Popular compositions are:
Acrylic paints. Compositions based on acrylic resins and polymers, water-soluble. After drying, they form a protective film on the outside of the foundation, which protects well from precipitation and allows the wall to breathe.
Acrylic advantages:
- Easy to apply, dries quickly, one layer is enough for concrete;
- Good hiding power, low consumption;
- After drying, it is resistant to moisture and chemicals;
- Well tinted;
- Odorless, safe;
- Low price.
This type of dye is the most common.
latex paints. Water-based compositions with the addition of latex. It forms a strong and elastic film on the surface, which tolerates external influences than acrylic.
Advantages:
- Water-repellent properties, high mechanical strength of the coating;
- The composition seals microcracks well, does not burst with temperature changes;
- Low consumption per 1 square meter;
- Apply directly on wet concrete, but not above 50% humidity.
- Two-component epoxy compounds.
This type of coating is one of the most durable, the service life reaches 20-25 years. It is based on formaldehyde resin and a special hardener. Paints of this type are used for unprepared coatings and already plastered foundations.
It is recommended to put it on fresh concrete, and the drying time is at least a day. Consumption is high - 3-5 kg per square meter. When working with it, it is imperative to use protective equipment.
Polyurethane enamels. It is mixed from two components and after hardening forms a durable glossy surface in the form of a polymer film with the following properties:
- They penetrate deep into 3-5 mm, the thickness of the outer film is about 200 microns;
- Crystallizes in the pores, which prevents its further exfoliation;
- Strengthens the surface of concrete even of weak grades (M100, M200);
- Heat-resistant, perfectly tolerate negative temperatures;
- Fireproof.
The use of this coating is considered optimal, but the high price and darkening after a few years do not always allow its use in facades on the street. The term of complete drying is 1-2 weeks.
Alkyd paints. All of them contain alkyd resins from mineral and vegetable oils. Paints of this type dry quickly, are easy to apply, but are fire hazardous and will require 2-3 coats of application on concrete. The most popular brand is PF.
Advantages of alkyd compounds:
- Penetrates deeper into concrete pores than water-based paints;
- Resistant to chemical detergents and UV rays;
- Inexpensive, available in stores;
- Economical, dries quickly.
Oil, based on drying oil, can also be used to paint the foundation and basement. Its disadvantage is darkening over time and low mechanical strength. In order for the oil paint to last as long as possible, it is applied to dry and clean concrete.
Which is better to choose
The foundation is divided into an underground part and a basement. Each of them has its own coverage. For a deep foundation, a bitumen-based primer or analogues are used. The main thing is to ensure and completely eliminate the contact of concrete with the ground.
The outer protruding part has a decorative function, so it is carefully aligned and painted. The stone and brickwork finish looks interesting. Such a coating is painted with simple acrylic or latex paints.
Otherwise, it is preferable to use two-component formulations. The foundation from the basement side can simply be whitewashed by adding copper sulfate or another antifungal agent to the solution.
Instruments
Painting the base begins with the selection of tools and materials.
For work we need:
- Brushes of different widths and rollers with a ditch, it is better to choose a pile material of the roller - it wears out less on a concrete surface;
- Hard brush and hose with water;
- Shovel;
- Gloves, protective equipment.
To prepare the wall for painting, cement is used to seal the cracks and a primer is applied before painting.
The use of soil reduces the absorption of concrete, reduces paint consumption. The amount is calculated based on the characteristics of the paint and its consumption.
House foundation painting
Self-painting the foundation is simple, follow the recommendations in the work:
- Pre-clean concrete from contamination with a brush and a jet of water from a hose, allow it to dry well;
- A layer of sod in front of the foundation is removed with a shovel and the blind area is leveled;
- Chips are carefully processed and puttied with liquid, let it dry for at least a day so that the next layer can be applied;
- Using a roller, we cover everything for concrete bases, it will provide adhesion to the paint and fill the pores of the concrete;
- Before use, the paint is diluted to the desired consistency with water or a solvent, lumps are removed;
- The paint is applied with a roller, having previously rolled it over a cuvette. In narrow places and in corners it is more convenient to use a brush. It is convenient to cover large areas with a spray gun.
The coating is left to dry completely and a second layer is applied.
Lay the soil back.
fence foundation
High-quality concrete does not require additional protection. For a massive fence, a tape shallow foundation or columnar foundation is used. The coating can perform a decorative function and organically fit into the design of the fence or exclusively protective. The concrete fence is painted entirely.
For reliable protection, epoxy paints and polyurethane are used. The foundation of the fence is suitable for paint based on liquid glass and silicone, for example, Alfasil.
Watch additional video:
The technology for painting a fence is no different from painting a basement in a house: the concrete is cleaned, leveled, primed, and then a layer of paint is applied. The best dyes for decorative painting of the foundation of the fence are water-based acrylic paints.
The basement is one of the most important parts of the building. This is a kind of support, which is subjected to constant negative environmental influences. Finishing the basement of a private house not only gives it an aesthetic appearance, but also protects it from adverse factors. Therefore, finishing materials must be moisture-resistant, frost-resistant, reliable and durable.
Much of the building's foundation is below ground level and hidden from view. The protruding part above ground level is called the plinth. According to the norms, the height of the basement from the ground must be at least 20 cm. It is usually made of brick, stone or concrete slabs.
The construction of a stone plinth is the most practical solution, since the structure does not need additional finishing. However, it is worth considering that this is the most costly way. Brick plinth masonry is more affordable. This material is environmentally friendly, has low and good strength characteristics.
Facing the basement of the house is not only aesthetic. This is a reliable protection of the building from external influences. Finishing materials that will be used for sheathing the basement must have a high level of strength. Together with the plinth, its cladding will take the load created by the wall structures of the building and evenly distribute it over the foundation of the building. It must withstand pressure and protect the base from external factors such as precipitation, sunlight, humidity, temperature fluctuations.
Finishing material protects the foundation of the building from damage by mold, fungus and various types of insects. The lining of the basement is carried out in order to insulate the building. It is also necessary to protect the foundation from severe frosts, under the influence of which its strength decreases and the erosion process develops.
Leaving the surface of the plinth without sheathing will contribute to its slow destruction as a result of constant exposure to dry or liquid dirt containing aggressive chemicals and minerals.
Various options for finishing the basement of a private house, the photos clearly confirm this, turn the building into a masterpiece of design art, making it look complete and unique.
Varieties of basement structures
There are main variations of structures that are used for projects of houses with a plinth:
- protruding beyond the surface of the walls;
- flush with the building;
- sinking, relative to the wall.
Most often, when building a private house, a photo of the basement of the house clearly confirms this, using the first two options. A protruding plinth is recommended when a house is built with thin exterior walls, a warm underground is used, or a basement is provided in the building. In these cases, this type of plinth will provide the building with additional thermal insulation.
If the basement is made flush with the building, when thin walls are used for its construction, dampness and condensation in the interior are inevitable. Here it is most problematic to mount thermal insulation and perform finishing.
Important! When choosing these types of plinth, you should take care of the arrangement of low tides in advance.
The sinking base is less damaged by the influence of precipitation. Here you can easily hide the waterproofing, equip the insulation and complete the cladding with the necessary materials, which contributes to a longer service life. This type of plinth is recommended for buildings without a basement. Finishing materials for the plinth will perceive the pressure of the soil, performing a supporting function, thereby maintaining the safety of the entire structure.
The procedure for finishing the basement of the house
All work on the lining of the basement structure is carried out at the final stage of production - the exterior of the building. Work is best done in warm, dry weather. The basement sheathing consists of the following steps, which are performed in a certain sequence:
- A trench is dug 20 cm deep, 50 cm wide around the entire perimeter of the building.
- Filling the space with gravel to provide drainage. Additionally, the trench can be strengthened using a reinforcing mesh.
- The surface of the wall, 50-70 cm high for the future plinth, is cleaned of dirt and processed. If necessary, all irregularities are eliminated.
- Arrangement of thermal insulation.
- Decorative lining of the plinth.
The choice of facing material and the way it is laid depends on the design of the plinth and the method of its outflow.
Arrangement of low tides for the basement of the foundation
To protect the basement from the negative effects of precipitation, an ebb should be installed, which is fixed above the protruding part of the basement, and is a kind of delimiter between the base of the building and the wall structure. One part is in contact with the wall at a certain angle, and the other hangs over the foundation, blocking it, collecting rain and melt water.
Ebb for the plinth are slats with a size of 50-400 mm. The color, size and shape of the tides should be selected depending on the finishing material of the foundation. A water-repellent structure can be made independently using waterproof materials, or you can buy ready-made ebbs for the foundation base at any hardware store.
Today, the industry produces several varieties of ebbs:
- plastic;
- metal;
- concrete;
- clinker.
The type of tide is selected based on the finishing material for the facade of the building. The most successful plastic ebbs are combined with vinyl siding, which is used for building cladding. Due to the wide range of colors, you can choose the most suitable option. The use of concrete or clinker flashings for the plinth is preferable for buildings that are lined with natural stone or brick. Metal visors can be used with any kind of finishing material.
Varieties of ebbs
The most budget option is to use plastic ebbs made of polyvinyl chloride. The cost of the product is 50 rubles. for 1 running meter Despite the high rate of water resistance, ebbs show increased sensitivity to physical impact, especially in winter, when they can crack and split from the slightest blow.
Helpful advice! Due to the fact that plastic ebbs have increased fragility, preference should be given to more durable and expensive products.
The most durable and durable are ebbs made of metal: steel, copper or aluminum. Installation of products is convenient and simple, and is determined by fastening metal strips to the walls of the building using self-tapping screws and dowels. When choosing this material from a wide range of types, special attention should be paid to the aesthetic appearance of the product so that it creates the completeness of the overall design of the building. The price of the product starts from 100 rubles/p.m.
Helpful advice! When mounting the base sills, the strips should be overlapped one after another by at least 30 mm. To avoid damage to the protective layer of the product, which will lead to the formation of corrosion and destruction of the material, do not cut the planks.
Metal castings are made from high-quality and frost-resistant cement of the M450 brand with the addition of river sand, crushed granite and plasticizers. The solution is poured into silicone molds of various geometric parameters. The result is a flat and smooth product. These ebbs are attached to a special solution.
Ebb for the basement of the foundation, the price of which is the highest and starts from 200 rubles. for 1 running meter, these are products made of clinker tiles. This material has high strength characteristics, reliably protects the building from the negative effects of the environment and successfully emphasizes the design of the cladding.
Drain mounting technology
After choosing the ebb, you can proceed to its installation. Here, one should take into account not only the material from which the ebbs are made, but also the design features of the building. So, for a wooden house, elements that will be fastened with self-tapping screws or other fasteners are suitable. Since wood has low adhesion and is afraid of dampness, the use of adhesives is impractical.
For buildings made of brick or facing stone, ebbs can be used, which will be attached using polymer or cement-adhesive mortars.
Helpful advice! When using concrete or ceramic sills, their installation should be carried out simultaneously with the plinth and wall cladding.
If it is necessary to install ebbs on a building already finished with facing material, then it is better to use metal or vinyl elements.
Before installing the ebbs, it is necessary to seal the joints of the walls with the plinth. All cracks and crevices should be treated with a water-repellent mixture, or sealed with a sealant. Next, you need to use the level to mark the wall. The highest point of the base is determined and a horizontal line is drawn along which the upper part of the tide will be mounted. The part of the foundation that protrudes must be compared with a horizontal plane using a cement screed. The lower part of the tide will rest on it.
Important! The ebb plane relative to the wall should be located with a slope of 10-15%.
Installation of metal and plastic sills
The installation of sills should be started from the corner, using special corner elements that can be purchased together with planks of the same width and color. Next, you need to finish all the protruding parts of the building structure: columns, pilasters and others.
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In the upper part of the tide, holes are drilled with a drill at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Further, the element is applied to the previously outlined line on the wall of the house and is attached to it with dowels with self-tapping screws. The lower part of the tide is attached to the concrete base of the plinth with a dowel-nails in increments of 40-50 cm. The junction of the tide with the wall should be sealed with a putty or silicone compound.
Important! During the installation of the ebb, it should be borne in mind that it should protrude 2-3 cm beyond the edge of the base, which will provide better protection during precipitation.
After sheathing all corners and protruding elements, it is necessary to proceed with the installation of ebbs on straight sections. You need to start from one of the corners. Each next element should be overlapped on the previous one by at least 3 cm. All joints should be treated with a sealant to prevent moisture ingress.
Installation of concrete and clinker sills
Clinker and concrete sills should be mounted at the stage of facing the facade of the building, since their adjustment to size during installation is a laborious process.
These types of ebbs are better combined with facing materials such as brick, clinker tiles, natural or. For their fastening, a special adhesive composition for ceramics and stone, which is intended for outdoor use, should be used. It is purchased in the form of a dry mixture created on a cement or polymer basis, and with the help of water it is brought to the state of thick sour cream. The solution can be made independently, using cement and building sand in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4.
Installation of concrete and clinker sills also starts from the corner. In order to avoid difficult processing of concrete sills, they should be pre-positioned in such a way as to minimize their cutting. This can be achieved by using the right size of the seam between the elements. You can adjust the dimensions of clinker products by using a tile cutter or a grinder with a diamond cutting wheel.
An adhesive mixture is applied to the back of each element. The tide is fixed strictly along the previously outlined line. After waiting some time for the solution to set, putty or silicone sealant is applied to the joints between the casting elements. After the adhesive has completely set, the walls of the building can be clad.
Foundation plinth waterproofing
The basement of the building is constantly in difficult conditions. It perceives a significant load from the above-ground part of the building and is in contact with the external environment, being under the influence of moisture. To protect an important part of the house from destruction, it is necessary to provide for a number of measures, one of which is the arrangement of waterproofing of the foundation basement.
Waterproofing can be horizontal and vertical. Usually a complex of works is performed, which includes both methods. Horizontal waterproofing is performed before the walls are erected and is aimed at protecting them from moisture. However, in order to provide a complete protective package of measures, it is also necessary to perform waterproofing between the foundation and the plinth.
Vertical waterproof protection is aimed at preventing the negative impact of surface and ground water on brick or concrete. Such isolation can be external and internal. The best effect has a double-sided protection against moisture.
Today, pile foundations are predominantly used in the construction of buildings. Here the plinth plays not only a decorative role, but also protects the house from heat loss. Despite the fact that this element is not load-bearing and does not have a direct impact on the durability of the structure, waterproofing the basement is mandatory.
Materials for waterproofing the plinth from the outside
Coating, roll and injection compounds with a penetrating effect are widely used as materials that are used for waterproofing the basement of the foundation.
To protect the foundation from the effects of groundwater, rolled waterproofing is often used, which can be welded or pasted over. Fused insulation consists of a base in the form of fiberglass, polyester or fiberglass and applied mastic. Pasting waterproofing is laid on the surface of the foundation using bituminous mastic, which is first applied to the rolled material and to the monolith, then the element is glued, pressed and smoothed.
The main advantage of the roll material for the base plate is its low cost and high installation speed. However, this type of waterproofing is poorly resistant to mechanical stress and has a short service life. It cannot be used in places of passage or junction of communications. Before installation, clean the surface from dust and dirt, and dry thoroughly.
Bitumen, polymer, bitumen-polymer mastics, binder plasters and cement coatings are used as coating waterproofing materials, which are applied to the foundation surface with a brush or roller. This type of insulation is used for water pressure up to 2.6 kgf/cm².
Helpful advice! To ensure increased strength of waterproofing after the first layer of mastic, it is recommended to reinforce the surface with fiberglass, and apply subsequent layers on top of it.
The material has a low cost and can be applied to the surface of any configuration. However, it is not durable, it requires preparatory work and the creation of additional protection against mechanical stress.
The use of injection and penetrating compounds is the latest technology for waterproofing a structure. The penetrating material is applied to the damp surface of the concrete base. Reacting with water, the composition turns into crystals that penetrate into the pores of the concrete, making it waterproof. The penetration depth reaches 150-250 mm.
Injection waterproofing is carried out using a liquid solution, which is injected under pressure into the cracks, pores and seams of the structure. This method can be used for waterproofing a building made of rubble and brick. The use of this waterproofing is a very time-consuming process that requires cleaning the structure to concrete or brick, and the complexity of the execution of the work itself requires the involvement of an experienced craftsman. In addition, such isolation is the most expensive.
Features of waterproofing a brick basement
Ceramic brick is most often used for the construction of a basement. The device of its waterproofing can be carried out by various methods.
For the construction of walls, solid red brick can be used. This building material has already been factory processed, where a layer of waterproofing was previously applied to it. Therefore, using this brick for the construction of a building, external waterproofing can not be equipped. Despite the fact that the cost of this material is relatively high, these costs are offset by the fact that after laying the brick, no other work is required.
The next way to waterproof a brick basement is to use bituminous grease, which is applied in several layers in cold or hot form.
Rarely, polyurethane foam spraying is used to insulate the basement. This is due to the fact that in order to perform such a thermal protection option, it is necessary to use special equipment, certain chemical components and attract highly qualified workers. The essence of the method is that the foamed polyurethane foam is sprayed onto any surface. Expanding, it penetrates into all voids and securely adheres to the base, forming a dense coating. This material can be used not only for spraying, but also for filling individual voids and areas.
Do-it-yourself technology for insulating the basement of the foundation from the outside with foam plastic
At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to prepare the foundation surface by cleaning it of old insulation, dirt and dust. Next, you should equip a layer of waterproofing to protect the structure from rain, ground and snow water. Any type of waterproofing is suitable for penoplex, with the exception of compounds with organic components.
Work begins with the insulation of the underground part of the foundation. For this purpose, PPS boards are attached using a specialized contact adhesive, which is applied around the perimeter of the product and in the center. The second level should be laid with a gap between the joints between the plates in relation to the lower level. After installation, all slots are filled with mounting foam.
The basement insulation layer with foam plastic requires additional protection against mechanical damage. To do this, an alkali-resistant reinforcing mesh is fixed on the plates, which is subsequently plastered with a solution with hydrophobic additives. Also, as protection, you can use wooden tongs, which are attached to the plates with dowel-nails. Wood must first be subjected to antiseptic, antifoam and hydrophobic treatment.
The final stage is the finishing of the plinth with facing materials.
Facing the basement of the house: what material is better to choose
Do-it-yourself plinth finishing is carried out with various materials that reliably protect and decorate its surface. This process must be carried out before wall cladding in order to be able to hide the ebbs under the wall finishing material.
The plinth cladding material must have the following performance characteristics:
- have low thermal conductivity to avoid heat loss from the building;
- provide reliable and strong adhesion to the base;
- have a high indicator of strength and wear resistance to mechanical damage;
- have low hygroscopicity and vapor permeability to prevent moisture penetration into the foundation and wall panels.
Today, when the question is raised, how to finish the basement of a house, the following materials are used that fully meet the above requirements:
- clinker or porcelain tiles;
- natural or artificial stone;
- brick;
- PVC panels or basement siding;
- profiled sheet;
- decorative or mosaic plaster.
For lining the base of the strip foundation, you can use any finishing material. But when the question arises, how to close the basement of a house on screw piles, you should give preference to brickwork, siding or profiled sheet.
Before deciding how to finish the basement of the house from the outside, it is necessary to take into account some of the nuances:
- lining the base with thick material, it is necessary to install a low tide above its protruding part;
- wanting to expand the foundation, it is better to use brickwork;
- when mounting or corrugated board, you must first install a frame, the space of which can be filled with a heat insulator for additional insulation of the foundation;
- frame-facing technology allows you to carry out work at any time of the year.
Using plaster for plinth cladding
When the question is: how to inexpensively finish the basement of a house, the answer is obvious - use plaster. However, this option is the least durable, and also has an unaesthetic appearance. Such a lining is easily damaged by any mechanical influences and does not provide adequate protection of the base from external factors. However, this method is widely used due to its low cost. It is also acceptable in the case of building a brick base on a strip foundation.
Plastering itself is not the final stage. To protect the layer from moisture and environmental influences, acrylic, alkyd, silicone paint, water-based or oil composition should be applied to it, which in turn decorates the base. The photo of finishing the house clearly demonstrates the various options for using plaster.
Helpful advice! Enamel paints are not recommended for painting the plinth. They do not pass air and are environmentally unsafe.
Often, decorative plaster is used, which creates the effect of a fur coat and can be colored when using a dye. The use of mosaic plaster allows you to create a multi-colored mosaic on the surface, which is due to the presence of small crumbs in the initial mixture. The presence of resin, as a binder, gives the composition increased water resistance.
To solve the question of how to make a plinth around the house with your own hands with the effect of natural stone, the use of a special silicone stamp will help, with which prints are made on the plastered surface.
In private houses, the basement finish with a profiled sheet is widely used. The material has a high moisture resistance, is resistant to temperature fluctuations, is durable, easy to process and can be easily mounted on a wooden crate. However, corrugated board is not suitable as a finishing material for wooden buildings due to the fact that it is susceptible to corrosion under the influence of high humidity, which can lead to rotting of wood.
Profiled sheets are often used to finish the plinth of a pile-screw foundation, where it must be closed for reliable weather protection.
Features of using brick for finishing the basement
One of the expensive finishing materials is brick. However, having high strength and performance characteristics, it allows you to create a strong, reliable and durable protection. This material is suitable for any type of foundation. For brickwork, slotted, hollow, hyperpressed or ceramic bricks should be used. Work begins with the arrangement of the base for masonry.
If the brick is used to build the basement itself, it does not need additional finishing. However, here you should choose high-quality material in order to solve two problems at once: utilitarian, protecting the walls of the house from external influences, and aesthetic, giving the building a decorative look. In deciding which brick is better for the foundation basement, it is necessary to give preference to red burnt brick, which is resistant to aggressive environments.
In the case of finishing the plinth of the pile-and-screw foundation with brickwork, it is necessary to install the base in the form of a strip of reinforced concrete or a metal profile. Bricklaying occurs with dressing. To connect the elements, a cement-sand mortar is used. The thickness of the seams is 10-12 mm.
Facing the basement of a private house is important, so you should carefully consider the choice of material for work. It acts not only as a decorating element, but also is a reliable protection of the entire building from the effects of atmospheric and mechanical factors.
Penetrating foundation waterproofing is a modern and reliable method of protection based on the ability of special compounds to fill the pores of concrete with water-insoluble crystals, thereby creating a hydro-barrier while maintaining the vapor permeability of the material.
The principle of operation of penetrating waterproofing
Concrete is a porous material, which is why it absorbs water. The smallest channels, called capillaries, pass water molecules to a considerable depth. Moisture-filled microcracks expand when water freezes, and the capillary permeability of concrete increases. Concrete ages, collapses, begins to flow. In the presence of water and air, the reinforcement inside the structures rusts, and the corrosion products contribute to the further destruction of the material.
The most difficult conditions are structures that are in direct contact with the ground, for example, the foundation of a building: in addition to water, it is affected by weakly alkaline or acidic soil components. Proven and popular foundation waterproofing methods, such as or, protect only the surface of the foundation, and at the slightest damage they begin to let water through. That is why, in addition to waterproofing, they equip drainage to remove moisture from the foundation walls.
Penetrating waterproofing has a completely different principle of operation. The components of waterproofing solutions and mixtures interact with calcium and aluminum ions contained in concrete, forming complex crystalline hydrates. Pores and capillaries in concrete are gradually overgrown with needle-like crystals, leaving small gaps through which water molecules can penetrate in the form of vapor. In this case, the capillary suction of water becomes impossible due to the surface tension of water droplets.
Filling the pores and capillaries of concrete occurs with the direct participation of water, so penetrating waterproofing can be carried out on wet foundations. The waterproofing layer is not limited to the concrete surface: the growth of crystals continues and, with sufficient moisture, can penetrate to a concrete depth of up to 0.6 meters. Thanks to this property, it is possible to carry out waterproofing of the foundation both outside and inside the building, which is especially convenient when repairing the foundations of old buildings.
Types of penetrating waterproofing
For various waterproofing works, different types of penetrating waterproofing are used:
- Aqueous solution for brushing or spraying intact concrete. Mainly used on new constructions;
- Mixture for application with a spatula. Creates a layer up to 2 mm, recommended for the restoration and waterproofing of old concrete structures;
- Seam waterproofing. Quite a thick mixture designed for repairing and waterproofing seams. Used in combination with a liquid solution;
- Compositions for repair and elimination of strong leaks. Apply when necessary to repair damage in concrete.
Foundation treatment technology with liquid solutions
It is used when processing new concrete block or monolithic foundations, both outside and inside the building. After processing, a durable waterproofing layer is formed, during operation, upon contact with water, crystallization resumes.
- The surface is cleaned of dust, dirt, stains of grease and bitumen. For better penetration of the solution into the pores of smooth concrete, it can be sandblasted or cleaned with a wire brush. The protruding parts of the reinforcement are cleaned of rust. The surface is washed with water under pressure until the concrete is completely wetted.
- The composition is mixed according to the instructions on the package, pouring water into the dry mixture and mixing thoroughly. You should get a mixture with the consistency of liquid sour cream.
- The composition is applied with a wide brush in two layers, the exposure time of the first layer is from 2 to 6 hours. When applying the second layer later than after 6 hours, the surface of the first layer must be cleaned with a brush. Application of the composition is possible both from the side of the street and from inside the basement. For waterproofing the destroyed foundation structures, the solution is diluted to a thick pasty consistency and applied with a spatula, with a layer of about 2 mm.
- Applying a decorative coating is possible no earlier than 21 days after the penetrating waterproofing of the foundation.
Technology of penetrating waterproofing of joints and seams
It is used for processing seams, joints, cracks together with liquid penetrating waterproofing. It can also be used to restore a damaged concrete surface.
- The concrete surface is cleaned of dirt and dust, washed with water. The cracks are expanded, removing the remnants of the cement mortar, at the joints, strobes of 2.5x2.5 cm in size are made using a grinder or a perforator.
- Copiously moisten cracks and strobes with water using a brush or spray gun. Cracks are treated with a liquid solution of penetrating waterproofing and kept for 2 to 6 hours.
- Mix the required amount of dry mixture with water to the consistency of plasticine. Lay the mixture in cracks and seams, by hand or with a spatula. If it is necessary to repair large cracks, fine gravel must be added to the mortar. When waterproofing concrete structures with traces of destruction, the mixture is applied with a spatula in a layer up to 13 mm, in several layers.
An hour after the waterproofing mortar has set, it is necessary to treat the seams with a liquid waterproofing solution.
Foundation repair technology using penetrating waterproofing
This technology is used to eliminate leaks with a strong hydrostatic head, it is based on the property of the mixture to quickly form a waterproof concrete plug at the site of damage to the foundation.
- A crack or damaged seam must be expanded, deepened, shaped into a cone expanding inward.
- A solution of a thick paste-like consistency is prepared so that it can be molded into a plug in the shape of a hole in concrete. All work must be carried out very quickly: mixing - no more than 2 minutes, sealing a crack or hole - 3 minutes.
- Insert the resulting plug into the gully and press firmly with your hands or an improvised object for 1-2 minutes. During this time, the solution seizes, and active crystallization begins.
- The surface of the repaired gully is leveled with a joint and seam mortar, and then treated with a penetrating waterproofing grout.
There are also tools used in the construction of a concrete monolithic foundation: they are introduced into the finished concrete in the form of an aqueous solution in the calculated amount. Concrete with such additives is resistant to moisture, mechanically strong, inert to aggressive liquids.
All work on the application of penetrating waterproofing must be carried out in durable rubber gloves, goggles, avoiding contact with solutions and pastes on the skin. To repair the foundations of old buildings made of brick, concrete, natural stone, injection penetrating insulation is also used.
