How to plaster aerated concrete outside and inside the house. How and with what materials plastering of aerated concrete walls is carried out The minimum layer of plaster on aerated concrete walls

Plastering walls with plaster: advantages and disadvantages in comparison with other types of finishing work
Construction and repair technologies are changing, new materials are appearing, but plaster remains a popular way of decorating walls that has stood the test of time. Reliability, solidity and durability of the result obtained are weighty arguments in favor of plastering.

Drywall, which has gained popularity for its ease of installation and has become an excellent option for perfectly leveling walls, has not been able to completely displace its "fundamental" competitor. Although communications are conveniently hidden under drywall sheets and a heat-insulating layer can be put - these are undoubted advantages, but they cannot withstand loads, reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and require finishing - these are disadvantages.

The process of plastering aerated concrete inside the house, like any other room, is laborious, it takes more money and time, you have to go through a rather “dirty” period, but as a result, the walls acquire a high-quality coating that can last for several decades. Of course, it also requires a decorative finish, but unlike a plasterboard base, its strength can withstand almost any load - you can mount shelves and canopies on these walls and embody any design and repair experiments.

Plaster can be applied to any surface, with the exception of very uneven walls, which require a thick layer of concrete mix to level. In this case, it is easier and more profitable to use drywall finishing.

The choice of material for plastering aerated concrete walls

Aerated concrete (gas silicate blocks) is a relatively new building material, but it has gained incredible popularity and the title of "revolutionary" in the market. Thanks to its cellular structure, it provides good thermal insulation combined with excellent air and moisture conductivity.
Its excellent air and vapor transmission characteristics place particular demands on technology, finish quality and materials used.

Firstly, the finishing material should not drown out these valuable qualities, completely blocking the pores and depriving the house of the ability to "breathe".

Secondly, porous aerated concrete, providing good air exchange, can quickly "dry" the wall finished with plaster and cause cracks on it.

Therefore, the choice of material for plastering aerated concrete surfaces is approached with great care. It is necessary to use specially formulated plaster mixtures marked "For aerated concrete". They contain components that bring the properties of the plaster as close as possible to the properties of cellular concrete and improve its adhesive, adhesive and vapor-permeable characteristics.
In addition, the mortar prepared from these mixtures acquires elasticity and resistance and can be applied to the walls in a thin layer.

Sequence of work

For the same reasons, the sequence of work has its own specifics: first, the internal walls are plastered, they are waited for to dry completely, and only then can external finishing work be started. Moisture should completely come out from the inside to the outside, and not vice versa.

The plastering process consists of three stages:

• foundation preparation;
• applying the base layer;
• applying a finishing coat.

Foundation preparation. Gas silicate walls have a flat, uniform surface with very thin seams, since not concrete, but glue is used during masonry. A smooth surface necessarily requires the application of a primer layer, which enhances the adhesion strength of the plaster and the wall and reduces the moisture-absorbing properties of aerated concrete so that drying occurs evenly.

Applying the base coat. After the primer dries, the dry mixture is diluted with water in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and a base reinforcing layer of plaster is applied to the wall with a notched trowel. It is reinforced with an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh: it is simply pressed with a trowel into the upper third of the layer and smoothed out. Mesh sheets are embedded in plaster with an overlap of 8-10 mm one by one. They prevent the appearance of deformations, shrinkage and cracks.

Sufficient thickness of the base layer of about 4 mm - special additives in the mix for aerated concrete work make it possible to obtain a durable coating with a minimum thickness. The plaster dries for a long time - you have to put up with it. As a rule, it takes 1 day to dry 1 mm, thus. the entire layer will dry for about 4 days.

Applying the finish coat. It is recommended to prime the base reinforcing layer before applying the finish coat. The decorative layer is applied with a metal float. Its thickness depends on the size of the fractions in the mixture - solid particles that give the plaster a relief pattern. For example, if the size of the fractions is 2 mm, then the thickness of the decorative layer should not be more than 2 mm.

After leveling the plaster and waiting a little while until it “grabs”, it is “textured” with a plastic grater - they give relief. Some finishes do not need further painting as they already contain color pigments.

It will be useful to know that finishing work in a house made of gas silicate bricks is not recommended to start immediately after the construction of the frame. The humidity of a "fresh" aerated concrete block from the factory is high - about 30%, it is advisable to wait about six months for it to dry up to 15%. Aerated concrete walls do not require special insulation, so the house can be used at first without finishing.

Finishing begins with plastering aerated concrete inside the house, i.e. from the inner walls, and complete the outer ones, and in no case vice versa. Drying must go through the outer wall.

The work is carried out, observing the temperature regime in the range from +8 to +30 C. Optimally - at 15-20 C.

Subject to the recommendations, the correct technology of work and the choice of appropriate materials, plastered aerated concrete walls will last for decades, providing comfortable air exchange, the absence of dampness and cracks on the surface.

Low-rise construction using gas silicate blocks has become widespread in all climatic zones of our country. The unique properties of the material, which we will discuss in detail below, make it possible to build aerated concrete structures in hot regions and in places where negative temperatures prevail. However, to carry out construction work directly is only half the battle. The comfort of further living in the house, its durability and the preservation of operational characteristics depend on the competent finishing of the facade and the inner surface of the walls. One of the main stages is the plastering of aerated concrete walls inside the premises. Let us consider in more detail the technology of the finishing process and the nuances that affect the quality of the final result.

Features of plaster on aerated concrete

To figure out how, when and how to properly plaster aerated concrete, it is necessary to study the properties of the building material itself. Features of wall plastering are associated precisely with the unique characteristics of gas silicate blocks.

Initially, aerated concrete was developed as a material that is used to insulate buildings. Therefore, research was carried out in the direction of creating a porous structure, which, as is known, provides maximum thermal insulation.

As a result, two varieties have emerged:

• foam concrete, the porosity of which is achieved by forced mechanical foaming;
• aerated concrete, in which gas bubbles are formed by adding aluminum chips that react with the main composition (hence the name of the material).

In the process of creating blocks, gas bubbles tend to the surface, punching their way through the thickness of the mixture. Therefore, the cells in the structure of aerated concrete are not isolated, but represent a kind of system of interconnected channels. This is the main feature of the material, due to which the gas silicate finishing technology differs significantly from other building materials. This difference is vapor permeability. Aerated concrete perfectly conducts saturated water vapor through its structure. At the same time, it has an increased hygroscopicity, that is, it is able to quickly absorb moisture and retain it inside for a long time.

Based on the foregoing, the fundamental principle of plastering for aerated concrete walls looks like this: water vapor must be able to freely remove from the thickness of the walls or should not penetrate at all. Failure to comply with this approach is fraught with the appearance of serious problems in the cold season: at negative temperatures, the moisture inside the blocks will freeze, and the material will simply “tear”: cracks will appear, shedding will begin, not only the appearance will deteriorate sharply, but also thermal insulation characteristics. To prevent this from happening, an integrated approach to the choice of options for external and internal decoration of the building is necessary.

We immediately answer the question: is it necessary to carry out outdoor work? Definitely yes, because:

• the impact of environmental factors on the porous structure of the material will lead to accelerated erosion;
• the aforementioned structure, consisting of practically through microchannels, makes the material sufficiently ventilated by air currents, which creates discomfort when living in a house in cold windy weather;
• insufficient mechanical strength of the exposed material makes it vulnerable to accidental impacts and other force impacts;
• a finished wall clearly has aesthetic advantages over unfinished masonry.

Dependence of internal plaster on facade finishing

In order to clearly demonstrate the reasons for the need to choose a material for interior work in accordance with the design option for the outer surface of the walls, we will consider the main characteristics of various types of aerated concrete. For ease of perception, we will form a summary table of parameters:

From the above data, it can be seen that even the most dense and durable brand of aerated concrete has a high energy saving rate (the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.15 was compared with that of natural wood, traditionally considered the standard of warm materials). At the same time, vapor permeability remains at a significant level for all grades of gas silicate.

In the process of human activity in the interior, moisture is constantly released into the air. In addition to the usual breathing of the inhabitants of the house, there are economic processes, including washing and drying clothes, washing dishes, and high humidity in sanitary facilities is their inherent property. As mentioned above, excess moisture must either be freely removed through the gas silicate walls, or not reach the surface of the material at all.

If a special vapor-permeable plaster is used for outdoor work, then a similar composition must be used inside. As a result, the overall vapor conductivity will practically not change compared to the initial characteristics of aerated concrete, and the aesthetic appeal and wear resistance of the structure will increase significantly.

Ventilated facades

An alternative option for exterior decoration, in which vapor-permeable plaster is also used for interior work, is the creation of ventilated facades. This technique provides for the equipment of a ventilation gap between the wall surface and a layer of finishing material. The most common examples of such options are siding or brickwork trim. The creation of ventilated facades provides for the possibility of additional external wall insulation, but here it is also necessary to use materials with appropriate vapor permeability: mineral wool is quite acceptable, while foam and extruded polystyrene boards are categorically unacceptable.

Other finishes

Other materials for facade design (traditional plaster compositions, adhesive bases for decorative stone, porcelain stoneware, etc.) violate the vapor permeability of aerated concrete, so interior work should also provide maximum vapor barrier. In such cases, it is advisable to use special hydrophobic primers and finishing materials based on sand with cement, and the thickness of the plaster should be much larger than for the compositions used while maintaining the ability of the walls to pass water vapor.

With this method of finishing, the room must have a well-thought-out ventilation system. Otherwise, constant humidity will lead to multiple manifestations of fungus and mold.

materials

The above recommendations help to solve the problem of choosing budget options for interior decoration. Which is better: plaster or drywall? The vapor conductivity coefficient of the densest aerated concrete is 0.16, and the same indicator for gypsum sheets = 0.07, which is more than two times less. Therefore, it is recommended to use drywall only in the case of arranging deaf vapor barrier external facades; to create a ventilated structure, it is necessary to use plaster mixtures for aerated concrete surfaces inside the house.

With regard to the kitchen, bathroom and bathroom in houses made of gas silicate, the question often arises: is it possible to lay tiles? The answer is similar: since the vapor conductivity of ceramic products is close to zero, such a finish is acceptable with a hydrophobic design of the walls from the outside.

How to plaster aerated concrete

Having dealt with the features of the technology, let's move on to the choice of the finishing material itself. With today's variety of building mixtures, it is not difficult to decide what to plaster with.

Most branded manufacturers of building materials produce compositions for working on aerated concrete. Of the most popular, AeroStone, Bonolit, Ceresit or Knauf plasters can be distinguished. Vapor-permeable plasters are somewhat more expensive than conventional ones, so when deciding which one is better, the financial side plays an important role.

Before buying, be sure to read the product description and make sure that the mixture you are purchasing is really intended for working on aerated concrete.

Wall preparation

So, whether it is necessary to plaster - figured it out, decided on suitable materials, let's get to work. Gas silicate blocks have a standard size and are laid in perfectly even rows, so preliminary leveling of the surface requires minimal effort and time. Usually it is done using grout nets or sandpaper.

The next step is a primer for plaster. This procedure must not be skipped, because otherwise the finishing material will not adhere well to the walls or crack quickly during operation.

Plastering process

Next, we move on to the finishing work itself. The technology of how to plaster aerated concrete walls indoors is not much different from similar work on any wall base and is easily done by hand:

• vertical beacons are installed along the width of the rule;
• preliminary puttying of the walls without plaster is carried out to fix the fiberglass mesh.

Do you need a grid

We will devote a separate section to this aspect. Plaster is a rather fragile coating. Therefore, at the slightest shrinkage of the foundation, cracks may appear on the surface, despite the monolithic reinforcing belts and other strengthening of the structure. To avoid such phenomena will allow the laying of a special mesh made of materials that are resistant to an alkaline environment. Strong fibers reinforce the surface and prevent cracking.

Despite the additional acquisition costs, the answer to the question - is a grid needed - is unambiguously in the affirmative.

If you want the finish to last for a long time, do not start work immediately after construction is completed. The house needs to stand for at least 6 months, and preferably 1 - 1.5 years. This will allow aerated concrete to reach optimal moisture levels, and the foundation to undergo final shrinkage.

We continue the plastering process:

• we throw a layer of plaster from the bottom up over the cultivated area;
• focusing on the beacons, level the surface;
• we dismantle the beacons and close up the places of their fastening;
• after drying, we finally overwrite the walls.

Tools

The list of necessary tools is small:

• sandpaper and grout meshes;
• long profiles for beacons;
• brush or roller for applying a primer;
• container for diluting the plaster mixture;
• spatula for application;
• rule for leveling the surface

putty

If further painting of aerated concrete is planned, after plastering it is recommended to carry out finishing puttying. This will improve the adhesion of the paint to the surface and increase its life. To carry out the operation, use special compounds for puttying aerated concrete, sold in building supermarkets.

The article popularly talks about widely used building materials, lightweight concrete, the main characteristics and methods of finishing using traditional technologies, plastering house elements.

Aerated concrete wall plastering

Plastering of internal and external structures made of lightweight concrete is the most widely used method of protection from the effects of external climatic conditions and giving the house an original respectable appearance, as well as internal comfort.

The prevalence of technology is due to the ability to inexpensively and on their own to carry out a set of works on the preparation and finishing of structures and achieve the desired results.

Special characteristics of aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete refers to cellular concrete, consists of quicklime, cement, sand and aluminum powder that forms gas. When mixing components and water, a reaction occurs with the release of gas, forming voids, the number of which determines the weight, density, thermal conductivity of concrete and areas of use:

• Concrete with a density of 300-400 (kg/m3) is used for thermal insulation.
• Density 500-900 (kg / m3) allows you to use for the construction of partitions and walls.
• With a density of 1000-1200 kg / m3, concrete is used to make load-bearing walls.

Concrete has gained popularity in housing construction due to its properties:

1. Low thermal conductivity allows it to be used as a heat insulating substance.
2. Frost resistance can reach 150 cycles, among lightweight concretes only expanded clay concrete has greater durability.
3. High fire resistance.

Of the negative qualities for construction, hygroscopicity can be noted, which means that aerated concrete needs to be coated.

The hygroscopicity of aerated concrete requires isolation from moisture.

Preparation of gas silicate blocks indoors for plastering

In aerated concrete, the amount of cement is up to 60 percent, in gas silicate - no more than 14, lime is twice as much, the rest is sand. The percentage matters, because the more cement, the higher the strength, and the base must be stronger than the coating, otherwise it will peel off. That is, the decoration of the house must be done with a lime-cement composition.

When finishing, you need to remember that the base must be stronger than the coating.

The main function of plastering surfaces from gas silicate blocks is the formation of a vapor-tight barrier and limiting the absorption of moisture. To improve the adhesion of the coating to the base, the structural elements are coated with a deep penetration primer, the first layer is applied generously, preferably with an airbrush, after drying it is necessary to paint over again.

After priming, given that the gas silicate composition of the base is weak, it is necessary to carry out reinforcement to prevent the appearance of cracks.

The rough reinforcement layer is made from the glue on which the blocks were laid; experienced craftsmen use tile glue for this, as a cheaper composition.

The use of glue instead of a conventional solution is associated with polymer additives in the composition, which provide strong bonding with a thin layer of the mixture.

After applying a thin layer of glue, 2-7 millimeters thick, a fiberglass mesh is embedded in it, which fixes the blocks and serves as a reliable base for the coating. The grid is superimposed on the applied glue with an overlap and is pressed with a spatula with teeth.

It is desirable to start applying the solution after 5-7 days, when the reinforced layer gains strength.

Plastering of gas silicate blocks inside the building: technologies used

Protection of gas silicate structures occurs in three stages:

1. Plastering with lime-cement mortar.

2. Priming.

3. Putty.

A lime-cement or lime-gypsum mortar with a thickness of not more than one centimeter is applied to the reinforced surface.

The technology of manual plastering is common, if the wall is large and uneven, beacons are installed and the applied layer is equalized with a wide rule.

The solution is kneaded in a bucket, small tank or trough, water is poured into the poured mixture and stirred to the required consistency, you need to cook a little, gypsum sets in 20 minutes, cement needs a little more time, so the amount should be sufficient to produce during this time. You can level immediately after throwing, the last step is grouting.

After finishing with a long rail, the evenness of the surface is checked, irregularities within 5-7 millimeters will be invisible.

Is it necessary to plaster the gas block from the outside

The need to protect the facade of aerated concrete is due to its properties:

1. Hygroscopicity will lead to the saturation of gas blocks with water, which in case of frost will cause the destruction of the structure.
2. Mechanical impact will cause chips, dents, cracks.
3. The material has a porous structure with open pores through which the circulating air carries away heat.
4. An unfinished aerated concrete house looks unpresentable.

For aerated concrete structures, the danger is the accumulation of moisture inside the blocks, which freezes during temperature changes and destroys the block from the inside. Therefore, the protection of external surfaces is mandatory, the method of protection by plastering is widely used for various reasons, one of which is the low cost of this technology.

Applicable materials for outdoor work

For the application of protective equipment from the outside, substances are required that have the following qualities:

• permeable to water vapor;
• not wet;
• with good grip;
• frost resistant.

The main types of mixtures for finishing aerated concrete outside:

• Acrylic for aerated concrete, strengthen loaded structures, plinth.
• Silicate, include liquid glass;
• Silicone, based on organosilicon polymers, well suited for facades, but high price;
• Gypsum mixture;
• Lime-cement composition.

Do-it-yourself internal plastering of a gas block: a feature of the work

Due to the high hygroscopicity of the material, plastering inside the house has its own characteristics.

Plastering surfaces must necessarily include the process of reinforcement. It is recommended to use a fiberglass mesh that does not collapse in an alkaline environment.

The surface should be painted over with a deep penetration primer twice.

Apply a thin layer of plaster with a thickness of about 5 millimeters and drown the mesh in it. After drying, apply the main layer using beacons.

What is the best plaster

If vapor permeability is required for kitchen, bathroom or sauna rooms, mixtures of gypsum with perlite sand are used. Silicate is also suitable, however, it should be noted that such mixtures are incompatible with acrylic, silicone, latex materials.

For use on aerated concrete, cement-lime mixtures can be used, which do not require a primer on the walls.

Set of tools

Finishing aerated concrete surfaces requires the following tools:

1. Spatulas.
2. Scraper to remove dirt and debris.
3. Metal brushes.
4. Hammer, for knocking down irregularities, protruding mortar.
5. Sandpaper.
6. Brushes, rollers for priming.
7. Master OK.
8. Tank for mixing solution.
9. Mixer for preparing the solution.
10. Falcon, a shield where the mixture is applied.
11. Grater for grouting.
12. Poluterok.
13. The rule is to align the corners.

How to plaster: work progress

Ready-made mixtures are great for finishing, but have a high cost, therefore, for do-it-yourself work, a wall preparation technology is offered, after which you can safely use any composition.

For preparation, you will need tile adhesive, fiberglass mesh, deep penetration primer. It is necessary to level all the chips and cracks with a composition for laying aerated concrete blocks, then remove dust and debris from the wall with a cheek and paint over with a deep penetration primer twice.

The tile adhesive is diluted and applied to the surface with a thickness of 5 millimeters, the mesh is pressed on top with a notched trowel. When the layer is completely dry, plaster is applied in the usual way, any solution can be used.

The cost of this technology will be an order of magnitude less than when using ready-made plasters.

How long can you move on to the next stages of wall decoration

After the end, the beacons are removed, the resulting dents are subsequently sealed with putty.

To move on to the following types of finishes, you must wait for the walls to dry completely at a constant temperature. Drying will take about a month in the warm season so that temperature changes do not lead to cracking or peeling. It is undesirable to speed up the process; if necessary, a heater is used.

The interior and exterior decoration of the house is an important stage of construction work, the quality of which depends on the durability, comfort of living and the aesthetic appearance of the house. There are many modern materials and technologies for finishing work, but traditional methods do not lose popularity and are still relevant today. These methods allow you to achieve the desired results at low cost and labor intensity.

Useful video

Plastering walls made of aerated concrete is a justified measure. , like the foam block, despite all its advantages, the material is hygroscopic. This means that it easily absorbs moisture. Therefore, a gas-block house must be protected from the weather. If the gas block gets wet in the rain and then dries, it will not lose its properties. And if it gets wet in winter, then the water accumulated in the pores of aerated concrete will freeze and expand. This is fraught with the appearance of small cracks that spoil the view, as well as the occurrence of more serious damage.

Conclusion: protection of aerated concrete from the outside from freezing, moisture, snow and other precipitation is a necessary measure. During and during winter conservation (if necessary), this function can be performed by a film stretched over the walls. During the operation of the house, it can be any facing material for the exterior of the facade - plaster for cellular concrete. The main thing is to create vapor permeability conditions so that the aerated concrete "breathes".

The exterior finish of aerated concrete houses, in addition to block protection, allows:

• strengthen the heat and sound insulation of the walls;
• eliminate the likelihood of wetting the walls;
• protect the house from sudden changes in temperature;
• decorate the facade of the house (decorative plaster for aerated concrete).

One of the most popular ways to exterior finish an aerated concrete house is to apply plaster. Therefore, questions often arise, for example, how and with what to plaster aerated concrete, which we will try to answer as fully as possible. We will conduct a comparative review of the characteristics of the best mixtures for facade decoration, and also describe the wall plastering technology in the form of step-by-step instructions understandable to beginners without construction experience.

Plaster for aerated concrete

Summarizing the experience of builders and owners of aerated concrete houses, we can conclude that three types of finishing materials are used for plastering aerated concrete walls:

Cement-sand plaster for aerated concrete

Is it possible to plaster aerated concrete with cement mortar?

No. Regardless of whether the gas blocks were laid on cement or on glue. In general, it is highly undesirable to plaster aerated concrete with cement mortar, because aerated concrete is very smooth and the mortar does not adhere to it, and it also strongly absorbs water from the mortar.

Reasons why it is impossible to plaster an aerated concrete house with cement mortar:

• The cement mortar has a lower vapor permeability than the gas block. This is the most important reason why you shouldn't use it. In the case of finishing walls made of aerated concrete, professionals have a rule that only that finishing material can be used, which, in terms of vapor permeability, does not differ from the aerated concrete itself or has a higher indicator compared to it. Only in this case, the optimal microclimate of the aerated concrete house will be maintained.

Note. For the same reason, it is undesirable to use rigid heaters (polystyrene and expanded polystyrene) for insulating a house made of aerated concrete.

• Cement-sand mortar has a high moisture content. To knead the components in the sand-cement mixture, you need to add water. It is also obvious that aerated concrete, having a significant rate of moisture absorption, will tend to absorb this water from the solution. This, in turn, reduces the quality of the applied mortar and its ability to adhere to the wall. After all, concrete gains strength only if it dries evenly and slowly.

Remember, the foundation must be periodically moistened and covered with a film to ensure uniform drying. So why should it behave differently on the wall? The primer saves the situation, but not much. The appearance of a cobweb of small cracks on the plastered surface of aerated concrete cannot be avoided.

Note. In order to save money, you can mix a cement-sand mixture and a special mixture for finishing aerated concrete blocks in a ratio of 1 to 1. But is such savings needed, which will significantly reduce the speed of work, and the finished surface will not be 100% of high quality.

• Cement mortar for plaster has low adhesion. It cannot provide high-quality adhesion to aerated concrete. One of the reasons can be considered the weight of the solution and the presence of large impurities in its composition.

You can increase the adhesion index (sticking, adhesion of surfaces) by adding lime to the classic cement mortar recipe (proportion: 8-10 kg of lime per 100 kg of concrete).

Cement-lime plaster can be purchased as a ready-made dry mix. For example, dry building cement-lime mixture CREPS Extra-light (240 rubles / 25 kg), Startvell T-21 (208 rubles / 25 kg), Baumit HandPutz 0.6 (300 rubles / 25 kg).

• obligatory application of the final layer. Because it is difficult to make a smooth surface using a sand-cement mixture.

Is it possible to plaster aerated concrete with aerated concrete glue?

Also undesirable. Although designed with the specifics of aerated concrete in mind, it is intended for thin layer application and jointing, not for exterior wall applications.

Violation of the vapor permeability of aerated concrete will lead to such problems as cracking of the finishing layer, the appearance of traces of seams (disappear after drying), the appearance of mold.

Gypsum plaster for aerated concrete

Advantages of plaster based on gypsum:

• high drying rate;

• non-shrinkage of the solution;

• the ability to make a smooth surface;

• no need for a top coat.

Disadvantages of gypsum plaster:

• mediocre vapor permeability;

• greater, in comparison with a special mixture, the water content required for mixing the mixture (10-15 liters per bag);

• getting wet quickly during rain or snow;

• the likelihood of spots on the surface that have to be painted over.

Despite the disadvantages, plastering the walls with gypsum is an acceptable option for finishing aerated concrete. Well proven: gypsum vapor-permeable highly plastic plaster mixture Pobedit Velvet G-567 (previously Pobedit-Egida TM-35 for 320 rubles / 25 kg.), Knauf Rotband (360 rubles / 30 kg) and Bonolit (290 rubles / 30 kg).

Facade plaster for aerated concrete

The most effective material for plastering exterior and interior walls of aerated concrete. Facade plaster has a number of characteristics, including the vapor permeability index identical to that of aerated concrete (for most types of plasters), good adhesion to the base, beautiful appearance.

When choosing how to plaster aerated concrete, it is best to focus on a high-quality special mixture. In addition, the use of facade plaster simplifies the finishing of an aerated concrete house with your own hands.

What kind of plaster is better to plaster aerated concrete walls?

There are a variety of ready-made mixtures for plastering aerated concrete walls on the market. To make the right choice, you should pay attention to the characteristics of the plaster:

• vapor permeability;

• the required amount of water for mixing the mixture (no more than 0.2 liters per 1 kg of the mixture);

• boundary values ​​​​of the thickness of the plaster (minimum and maximum);

• adhesion to the base (minimum 0.5 MPa);

• resistance to low temperatures;

• crack resistance;

• solution pot life. The more, the easier it is for beginners to work with it.

And only when choosing between two equivalent mixtures, one should be guided by the price, it decides not the last role in this matter, but not the key one either.

According to reviews, plastering of aerated concrete walls outside the premises is popular among users - a dry mix with plasticizers Ceresit CT 24 (380 rubles / 25 kg), leading in terms of price / quality.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

When can aerated concrete walls be plastered?

Since aerated concrete easily absorbs moisture, it is better to protect it from getting wet immediately. We repeat, it is not critical if the material gets wet, but you should not allow moisture to freeze in the gas block. This can lead to its weakening and the appearance of unwanted cracks.

Haste in facing is also useless. After laying aerated concrete, the walls should dry well. That is why the plastering of aerated concrete walls is carried out only in the warm season. In the case of using a concrete-sand mortar as a binding element when laying aerated concrete blocks, the drying time increases, since such a seam is several times thicker than a seam made with a special adhesive mixture.

If it is not possible to finish the house during the warm season, you need to cover the walls with any deep penetration primer. For example, Ceresit ST-17 (549 rubles / 10 l).

The primer will reduce water absorption. It is also desirable to cover the walls with polyethylene left over from packing pallets with aerated concrete.

According to the masters, the most preferable time for finishing work is the period when the night temperature exceeds 0 °C. For central Russia, this time is from late March to early October.

From which side should you start finishing the house from aerated concrete?

We will conduct a comparative analysis of several popular options for the order of execution of wall decoration.

Option 1
First, the exterior of the house is made of aerated concrete

There is an opinion that the most important thing is to protect the gas block from the street, because. it absorbs moisture. However, this is not so, even after standing without protection (but primed) for a whole winter, the gas block will “give up” the accumulated moisture in the spring. And if it is closed from the outside, where will the vapors be directed? That's right, indoors. This will not only increase the drying process and delay the interior decoration, but is also fraught with the appearance of cracks inside the room.

Option 2
First, the interior decoration of the house is made of aerated concrete

With this approach, the pores of the aerated concrete block are partially closed in the process of finishing work. And if they are plastered first from the outside, the accumulated water vapor will simply have nowhere to go. Settling inside the block, moisture will contribute to its destruction. Plastering the walls of aerated concrete indoors will avoid this situation.

After the plaster has touched the interior walls and dried well, you can start finishing the exterior walls.

Option 3
Simultaneous finishing inside and outside the house

The method is the least preferred. The moisture that the gas block “pulls” at the same time from the outside and from the inside will not have the opportunity for a quick exit at all.

Despite the fact that plaster for aerated concrete has good vapor permeability, the speed of this process is not so high. Which is especially critical in the cold season (at night temperatures below zero). In this case, water vapor will settle in the form of condensate and, as a result, can lead to peeling of the plaster layer from the aerated concrete. In practice, this option will lead to the destruction of the gas block as quickly as possible.

Theoretically, each of the options has the right to be implemented. But the second one is correct.

How to plaster aerated concrete walls with your own hands

We figured out the question of whether it is possible to plaster aerated concrete. Now it is important to understand how to do it correctly, without prejudice to aerated concrete to let in moisture.

Plastering of aerated concrete blocks has no fundamental difference from the performance of work of this kind on other materials. The putty application technology differs only in a few details, which will be emphasized.

Internal plaster walls made of aerated concrete

The technology of finishing aerated concrete with plaster indoors - the sequence of work:

1. Foundation preparation

It begins with the alignment of the walls - the removal of irregularities is done using a planer or grater for aerated concrete. This work is recommended to be done at the stage of building a house, but many people neglect this, saving time. In principle, this stage can be omitted, which will lead to a significant increase in the consumption of the mixture and an increase in the thickness of the coating layer. In turn, this is fraught with flaking of the plaster and cracks.

2. Applying a primer

Often there are recommendations that the primer should be diluted with water 1 to 1. This is fundamentally wrong, because. reduces its ability to increase surface adhesion. There are better ways to save money. For example, remove dust from the surface by applying clean water to it. Water is applied with a brush or roller as if it were a primer. And then, after drying, a primer is applied.

The choice of primer depends on the purpose of the room to be finished. For a corridor or hallway, any universal primer is suitable, for example, Unis (250 rubles / 5l). For the bathroom and kitchen, it is advisable to use a deep penetration primer, for example, Prospectors (450 rubles / 10 l).

3. Installation of beacons

Beacons, as the name implies, determine the thickness of the application of the solution. They are set to the width of the rule. The accuracy of the installation is determined by the building level.

4. Throwing a "fur coat"

This is the name of the method of applying the first layer of plaster. The work is done from the bottom up. Next, you need to base the rule on the beacons and align (extend) the sketched layer along them. If voids appear, they must be repaired immediately. The main thing is that the plaster does not peel off from the base. If this happens, you need to remove the plaster, treat the surface with a primer and apply the solution again.

5. Processing the first layer

After the first layer of plaster has dried, it must be slightly moistened (with a spray gun) and leveled. Since the beacons serve as cold bridges, it is advisable to remove them at this stage, and seal the places (recesses after dismantling) with mortar.

6. Forming corners

A perforated corner with a mesh is used to arrange and reinforce the outer corners.

7. Finishing

Grouting (if necessary) and painting of aerated concrete walls is carried out. In the case of wallpapering, finishing is not required.

For paint for aerated concrete, requirements are also put forward regarding vapor permeability. Such properties are possessed by interior paints based on PVA, latex, acrylic emulsions, on organic solvents and cement paints.

An example is ESKARO AKZENT (antibacterial paint, 325 rubles / 0.9 kg). At the same time, for rooms with high humidity, special paints should be used, for example, AquaNova Premium (282 rubles / 2.8 kg)

How to plaster aerated concrete walls - video

External plastering of aerated concrete walls

Decorative plastering of the facade of the house may involve the application of plaster for outdoor use in a thick layer (thick-layer finish) or several layers (thin-layer plaster).

Consider a multilayer version of applying thin-layer facade plaster for aerated concrete. Its feature is the creation of three thin (no more than 10 mm) layers.

Technology for applying plaster outside:

• wall preparation. Includes leveling the surface to reduce the consumption of the mixture and the thickness of its application;

• surface priming;

• applying a thin layer of plaster mixture (up to 5 mm). Its purpose is to serve as a basis for attaching the grid;

• reinforcement of plaster with mesh;

How to properly reinforce plaster

A metal mesh with small cells can be used as a reinforcing layer, for example, a steel mesh with a wire diameter of 0.1 mm and a cell pitch of 0.16x0.16 mm (average price 950 rubles / sq.m. = 2,850 rubles / roll) or fiberglass mesh (for example, reinforcing fiberglass mesh with a cell pitch of 50x50 mm (approximate price 17.60 rubles / sq.m = 880 rubles / roll).

The mesh is attached with an overlap of 50 mm. At the same stage, the corners of the building are formed using a perforated corner with a grid. The mesh helps prevent cracks in the plaster due to shrinkage of the building. Thus, the plaster of the aerated concrete facade will not be covered with a web of small cracks. The mesh is sunk into the applied solution with a spatula. It is especially important to install the grid in places of high voltage, near windows and doors.

Advice. Mounting the mesh on a dry wall will not give any result, because the mesh will be fixed to the base with self-tapping screws. In the case of its installation on the solution, it forms a monolith with the solution, and will move with it.

• alignment of the plaster layer on the grid;

Next, you need to wait until the first layer dries completely. Otherwise, it may fall off under the weight of the second layer. Since this method involves a thin-layer application of the solution, it will take 3-4 days to wait. The thicker the layer, the more. You can check if the layer is dry with water. If you spray on the wall and the water is absorbed, then it's time to get to work.

Note. When the plaster dries, it must be protected from the influence of environmental factors (moisture, snow, rain).

• applying a second layer of plaster. This layer is considered leveling, therefore, increased attention is paid to the evenness of application and the formation of a smooth surface;

• applying the third (finish) layer of the plaster mixture, followed by grouting if necessary;

• painting a plastered aerated concrete wall or applying a textured plaster mixture, for example, Pobedit-Bark beetle (340 rubles / 25 kg).

  For painting aerated concrete, only paints for outdoor use are used. For example, Nova-Facade (590 rubles / 7 kg), Gasbetonbeschichtung from Dufa (2674 rubles / 25 kg), ROLPLAST Gordianus (3700 rubles / 10 kg), Dyotex (concentrate, 5500 rubles / 15 kg).

• application of a hydrophobic agent. This is a special solution that professionals recommend applying a year after staining, after all facing work is completed. The water repellent will give any surface additional water-repellent properties. A special water repellent agent for aerated concrete "Neogard" (350 rubles / 1 l) has proven itself well.

Aerated concrete putty

When deciding how to putty aerated concrete, you need to know that there are three types of finishing materials on the market that are similar in purpose, but differ in their composition. All this, facade plaster for aerated concrete, sold as a ready-made mixture. It is intended for thin-layer finishing of the plastered surface.

Ready-made silicate plaster, for example, Baumit SilikatTop Kratz Repro 3.0 mm (3700 rubles / 25 kg)

Conclusion

Consistently performing work on plastering walls made of aerated concrete and using only vapor-permeable materials, it is possible to provide a reliable finish that will decorate the facade of the house for more than one year. And scheduled repairs will be reduced to periodic painting, to restore the color of the paint and eliminate small cracks.

The plastering process is the most common outdoor finishing option. With the help of it, the walls of the interior are aligned. However, how different is the material application technology if it is necessary to plaster aerated concrete or brick walls? Or maybe you are a happy owner of a frame house or a structure made of foam blocks. Today I will talk about the basic principles of applying plaster on the walls with my own hands, and we will also look at how the foundation of the house is plastered.

The need for plaster for a brick house

It doesn’t matter if an old brick building is being renovated or the walls of a new building are being designed, plaster is a necessary element for high-quality work. Using modern plaster, you can carry out high-quality protection of walls from negative atmospheric influences.

Important! Using a traditional do-it-yourself mixture, it is better to process fairly large surfaces. Modern materials contain components that increase the useful properties of plaster.

The material to be used for exterior surfaces must meet important requirements:

• The material must be moisture resistant and vapor permeable. If the plaster does not remove the accumulated condensate, the walls will begin to collapse very quickly and the house itself will not stand idle for a long time.
• Must be weather resistant - that is, if an outdoor mixture is used, it must withstand sudden changes in temperature and frost
• Mechanical resistance is an important criterion, as the surface of the walls is often exposed to unintentional impacts and weather disasters.

Brick walls are plastered during reconstruction work, as cracks, chips appear on the walls of the house over time, or simply because of uneven masonry during the construction of the house. You can plaster a brick house with your own hands and for this it is enough to adhere to the following sequence:

1. Before starting the workflow, the surface should be cleaned of dirt and dust. Then spray it with a solution of cement and lime. In some cases, only a cement mixture can be used
2. On the next this primer is carried out
3. Applying a cover layer
4. For high-quality work, do-it-yourself beacons are installed, a plaster solution is applied between them Try to apply the material as evenly as possible
5. Using a trowel, the surface is leveled and checked by level
6. Beacons are dismantled, and the remaining voids are sealed with mortar
7. Before completion, the surface of the walls is sprayed. The resulting finish is sprayed with water for three days. If possible, the base is hidden from direct sunlight, which can accelerate the setting process and thereby reduce the performance of the material.

A brick house often requires additional thermal insulation, which can occur with the help of well-known foam. In this case, subsequent plastering is a necessary measure.

Foundation protection

The foundation of the house is the most important place of the entire structure, which is most exposed to negative impacts. Protection of the foundation with plaster should be carried out at the highest level and most often you should contact specialists for this. But if you want to plaster the foundation with your own hands, then follow this plan:

1. All contaminants must be removed and notched. It is performed for a foundation that has stood uncoated for more than a year.
2. Elimination of defects - all weak points are beaten off to the state of a solid foundation
3. A layer of primer is applied to the surface of the foundation
4. Defects and potholes, together with the seams, are filled with cement mortar
5. Mount the chain-link mesh with dowels
6. Install beacons
7. Plastering is done in 2 layers - the first is the primer, and the second is the finish
8. The first layer should dry well, only after that the second one is applied - usually the drying time reaches 5-7 days. At the same time, the surface is periodically sprayed with water.
9. The decorative layer is applied on a damp foundation with a thickness of about 5 mm. It is important that this time the mixture be thicker and more plastic.

As a finishing layer for the foundation, you can use various types of decorative plaster. For the foundation, a mortar with a “travertine” texture, terrazite plaster and a fur coat is suitable. It is important that the finish of the foundation coincides with the overall design of the facade.

Plastering foam concrete

Being a fairly light and durable material, foam concrete is in great demand for building a house. The advantages of the foam block have long been justified; for a long service life, the surface of the foam blocks must be plastered both outside the house and inside.

The technology of plastering walls from foam blocks is different from the processes for other types of surfaces. However, to achieve maximum effect, you should use some tips:

• Like any base, the surface of the foam block must be primed. To do this, it is best to choose a deep penetration primer and apply it in two layers. Thus, the adhesion of the foam block and plaster will be maximum
• Before plastering the walls of the house from the foam block, a reinforcing mesh should be installed. Watch her condition - there should be no gaps
• When choosing foam blocks in a hardware store, you should pay attention to the color of the material. Foam block products should be gray, the advantage of yellow will indicate a large amount of sand. Because of this, the material will be very fragile.
• If the base of the walls is made of cast foam block, then use not a construction mesh, but fiberglass

Doing the work with your own hands, you should give preference only to high-quality materials that will allow you to complete the finishing process as quickly, efficiently and for a long time as possible.

Facing a frame house

For a frame house, plaster is used as often as panel siding. Before performing work outside the house, you should choose a plastering method:

1. With cement particle boards
2. With the help of multi-layer reinforced plaster using a metal mesh

If the finishing of the frame house will be carried out every 5-7 years, then you may well choose the first option. It is easier to do it yourself. However, having spent more time and effort on the second method, you will get a facade of a frame structure that will last at least 13-15 years.

If the use of decorative plaster is also planned for a frame house, then one layer of the mixture can be applied along the construction mesh. In the case of a single-layer application, clinker, as well as ceramic tiles or stone, can be used for the frame structure.

Important! A water repellent is used for plasters as an enhancement of the water-repellent properties of a frame house. With their help, the gas permeability remains the same, but the absorption of moisture is significantly reduced.

For a frame house and covering it with plaster, all bases must be processed. However, in some cases it is allowed to cover only those surfaces that are most affected by moisture.

Self-facing aerated concrete

Finishing aerated concrete with plaster

Aerated concrete is a popular building material that is used in low-rise construction. This material gained popularity due to its light weight and the speed of building houses with it. However, with such positive qualities, aerated concrete has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity and therefore requires high-quality finishing.

Important! The microclimate created inside a house made of aerated concrete is comparable to the microclimate of wooden buildings. Therefore, the plastering of aerated concrete walls is necessary in the same way as the plastering of a wooden house outside.

Aerated concrete inside the house must be plastered using certain solutions. The use of a cement-sand mixture is unacceptable, since the material has the property of absorbing moisture. Aerated concrete is best finished with gypsum putty or gypsum-based solutions. Inside the house, you can apply solutions with fillers such as chalk, marble or dolomite.

Important! On the modern construction market, there is a special plaster with which cellular material can be finished without deteriorating the vapor barrier properties.

To maintain a vapor barrier, aerated concrete can be finished with plastic wrap. However, if all work is carried out with errors, then condensation may appear on the surface of the walls, and the plaster will swell over time. That is why many people decide to plaster aerated concrete with a sand-cement mortar, but even in this case, the coating will definitely begin to peel off. Before you start finishing aerated concrete, you should study in detail all the pros and cons of these methods and only after that carry out the design of the walls inside and outside the house. Aerated concrete has different grades of density and it must be remembered that the plaster is selected based on these data. External plastering of the house can be done independently, all processes must take place in the warm and dry season.

Stucco color

Plastering aerated concrete walls inside the house

The use of decorative plaster is in demand due to the possibility of choosing the desired color of the material. Due to the fact that there are a huge number of plasters that have color, creating a specific design and its shades becomes a fairly simple action. In addition to using ready-made mixtures, you can add pigment when making the solution yourself. However, by giving a certain color in one batch, there is no guarantee that the color of subsequent batches will completely match. Even when using the same proportions, there may be a slight change in color that will be noticeable on the walls inside or outside the house.

In specialized stores, you can choose the color of plaster you need thanks to the palettes of certain manufacturers, as well as determine the shade along with catalogs of already finished houses using these materials. Remember, the richer the tone of the plaster, the longer the color will last. At the same time, a rich dark color can very quickly lose its appearance.