Homemade trailers. How to build a change house out of wood, on a metal frame. Why do you need a utility room in the country

If you have any construction ahead, then the first thing you need on the site is a construction change house. Of course, such a structure can be purchased ready-made, but the price will not be small. It is much easier and more economical to do it yourself. So that you do not have to rack your brains in search of drawings of a change house, in counting materials and drawing up an estimate, you can use the proposed change house option. A step-by-step guide with drawings and photos will help you at the assembly stage.

Required materials (estimate)

To build a small change house with dimensions in terms of 6x2.4 meters and a height of 2.4 meters, you will need to buy:

  1. Moisture-resistant plywood measuring 1.22x2.44 1.2 cm thick (5 sheets of 920 rubles each) - 4600 rubles.
  2. Edged board with a width of 0.15 and a thickness of 0.05 (8 boards 6 m long, 300 rubles each) - 2400 rubles.
  3. Bar 50X50 cm, 3 meters long (50 pieces for 65 rubles) - 3250 rubles.
  4. Unedged board with a width of 250 mm (only 0.8 cubic meters for 3600 rubles) - 2880 rubles.
  5. Cement-sand block size 40x20x20 (6 pcs. 60 rubles each) - 360 rubles.
  6. Window block with a size of 600x600 mm (2 pieces for 585 rubles) - 1170 rubles.
  7. Roofing material RPP-300, 15 sq.m. in a roll (2 rolls of 260 rubles each) - 520 rubles.
  8. Oriented strand boards (OSB) measuring 1.22x2.44 m and 0.9 cm thick (14 boards for 605 rubles each) - 8470 rubles.
  9. Paneled door DG-7 manufactured in Alexandrov - 2050 rubles.
  10. Edged board 0.05x0.10x6 m (6 pcs. 200 rubles each) - 1200 rubles.
  11. Insulation brand "Hitrok", a plate 5 cm thick with an area of ​​5.4 sq.m. (3 plates for 480 rubles) - 1440 rubles.
  12. Polyethylene film 0.1 mm thick and 3 m wide (10 m at 30 rubles per meter) - 300 rubles.
  13. Delivery of materials by car gazelle - 3000 rubles.
  14. Boards of the second grade for lathing - 450 rubles.
  15. Profiled C20 3x1.015x1.15 m (6 sheets of 650 rubles each) - 3900 rubles.
  16. Insulation "Isobel" 5 cm thick with an area of ​​6 sq.m. (3 sheets of 480 rubles each) - 1440 rubles.
  17. Hardboard 2.75x1.22 (6 sheets of 200 rubles each) - 1200 rubles.
  18. Protective coating for wood "Snezh" 9 liters - 1880 rubles.

As a result, a construction change house will cost you 40,510 rubles excluding small consumables (nails, screws, etc.).

Assembly of the base of the change house

So you have a plot. First of all, decide on the location of the change house and you can get to work. Installation of change houses is carried out in the following order:

  1. We start construction from the platform, or rather from the insulated floor, from which we will dance further.
  2. With the help of pegs and a rope, we perform a breakdown on the ground and install cement-sand blocks with equal steps along the perimeter of the proposed change house.

  1. Then, from a 6-meter edged board with a section of 150x50 mm, we arrange a strapping, laying it on blocks.

  1. We attach logs to the harness with a step of 1221-1222 mm. We upholster the lower edge of the lag with a bar of 50X50 mm and from below we attach the bars of the subfloor to them. Tip: for the subfloor, you can take uneven bars, and to save material, a 50X50 bar can be sawn in half lengthwise.

  1. Then, in the gaps between the lags, we lay the insulation boards on the boards of the subfloor.

You will definitely need temporary housing, i.e., the place where people involved in construction will live.

And it is important enough that the construction of this temporary premises does not take much time. The consumable building materials used should be improvised and have a minimum cost.

A frame change house of a standard type is carried out without the use of internal partitions; in this change house there should be a small amount and.

With such a budget option, this change house will cost you about twice as much as a frame-panel change house, but its quality will be much higher and more reliable, because the frame change house is much stronger due to durable timber and other building materials used in the work.

Necessary building materials and tools for installing a change house

A do-it-yourself change house is carried out only with the use of building materials necessary for work, as well as tools.

Below is a list of required materials:

  • Cinder blocks are needed to build a temporary foundation;
  • Sand and geotextiles;
  • or bituminous mastic;
  • Wooden and logs;
  • silicate brick;
  • Various fittings, corners, self-tapping screws;
  • To cover the roof;
  • Mineral wool and;
  • Lining, wooden boards, bars of different sizes.

It is also necessary to prepare the tools that you will definitely need when building a change house: a shovel, a hammer, a drill and others.

Do-it-yourself frame change house step by step instructions

If the change house is temporary, for easy disassembly in the future, the foundation is made of cinder blocks, which are perfectly disassembled and are of low cost.


Temporary cinder block foundation

To install cinder blocks, you need to remove them from the ground, then tamp the ground and cover it with special geotextiles, then fill everything with sand and tamp it well again.

Cinder blocks are laid on the base.

They must be placed in each corner and with gaps between them of 1.5 meters.

Cinder blocks must be waterproofed with roofing material or mastic and fixed with a special wooden one.

Drawings, materials

The third stage is the erection of the frame of the walls and the installation of the roof.


Building walls and roofs

To begin with, they build a foundation, applying along the perimeter of the entire structure. Lags are laid across and along.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

  • aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. In high humidity, aluminum braid is prone to rust.
  • Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
  • Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - to hot water.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment, flexible connections are also used. Unlike models for water, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

  • PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
  • synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
  • bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and fixtures for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:

  • clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
  • an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
  • high occurrence of groundwater;
  • technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
  • violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
  • the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What causes excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?

  • the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
  • oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
  • the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
  • there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs

Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

  • top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
  • at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
  • at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
  • from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
  • from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

  • with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow on high beds;
  • the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
  • if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
  • the optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Do you need site drainage?

Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, an industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved, and the act of testing the internal sewerage and drain systems will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the facility.

A visual check should be accompanied by entering into the test report of internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.






















Many people have suburban areas outside the city, but not all of them are equipped for living. Some use the land as a vegetable garden, while others only plan to build a house on it. But coming to the dacha in the morning and then leaving in the evening back to the city is not convenient for everyone, and sometimes you don’t want to. After all, spending time away from the bustle of the city, enjoying the fresh air and singing birds in the garden is a pleasure.

But in order to come to the dacha and stay there for a while, you need shelter. The construction of a full-fledged residential building will take a lot of time and finances, but the equipment of a small country house from a change house will appeal to every owner of a suburban land plot.

A house from a change house can become both a permanent place of residence in a country house in the warm season, and a temporary one, while a full-fledged residential house is being built. It is worth noting that you can live in a change house throughout the calendar year, if you equip it with heating, electricity and water supply. And after the construction of the cottage is completed, the change house can be sold or left as a utility room. Read more about what a change house is, what it is made of and how such a country house is used in our article.

A small country house from a change house, equipped with an open terrace

Types of cabins

Manufacturers offer a fairly wide range of change houses that can be equipped with everything necessary for both permanent and temporary residence. According to the purpose of change houses are divided into:

    intended for a country utility room;

    residential change houses, for temporary residence of workers or directly by the owner himself.

    can play the role of an office manager or superintendent.

Change houses are also construction, country and block containers, and according to their design they are divided into:

    frame.

  • lumber.

Most often, change houses are made at the factory and if you decide to order them, they will be delivered by truck already assembled. As for the dimensions of change houses, they are calculated so that the structure can freely fit into the body of a truck or trailer.

Features of block containers

For some reason, the word “container” itself is immediately associated with metal, and the idea arises that it will be very hot in summer and cold in winter. But not all containers are metal, besides, their walls and ceiling are insulated and finished both inside and out. Manufacturers of block containers make every effort to ensure that the use of such change houses is as comfortable as possible.

Metal block container used as a utility block

As mentioned above, block containers are not only metal, they are also made from wood. Metal structures are most often used as building change houses, the standard dimensions of which are 2.5x6 m, and the ceiling height is 2.2 m. As it has already become clear, the frame of such change houses consists of metal, the structure is finished with galvanized corrugated board on the outside, and dry wooden clapboard on the inside , PVC panels or fiberboard, MDF clapboard or hardboard. Mineral wool is used as a heater. The doors of the change house are made of fiberboard, and the windows, 1x1.2 m in size, are equipped with double-glazed windows. Buyers are given the opportunity to install partitions in the change house to receive several rooms.

Manufacturers of metal block containers give a five-year warranty for the operation of change houses.

People most often purchase a residential trailer for living from wood when they are going to build a summer cottage or to live in them on a country site during the warm season during their holidays. Therefore, such change houses are also called "cottage houses". Wooden block containers are also used as utility blocks, summer kitchens or equipped with everything necessary for year-round use.

Wood structures are much warmer and lighter than metal ones. As a finish, both outside and inside, there is a wooden lining. As for the dimensions of the change house and the size of the windows, they are the same for metal and wooden block containers.

Block containers can be used for more than fifteen years. Entire modular houses are built from such change houses, connecting them together and removing partitions. And if you put the structures on top of each other, you get a two-story house.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house design services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

A small country house of two block containers with a canopy and an open terrace on the second floor

Country change houses

Like block containers, country change houses are made of metal and wood.

The latter are best used for living in the warm season, and metal change houses are great for year-round use. Thanks to the corrugated board, metal structures are better able to withstand changes in weather conditions.

Country cabins are finished from the inside with fiberboard or wooden clapboard. The latter finishing option is more suitable for permanent residence. In summer cottages there are separate rooms, a utility block, a toilet and a shower, and this is their main feature.

Wooden country change houses, in turn, are divided into frame, panel and from a bar.

Panel board cottages

The cheapest type of wooden summer cottage is a panel house. Such structures are not designed for long-term use, but due to their low cost they are in great demand among summer residents during the construction of a house. As an exterior finish for panel structures, not a solid lining is used, but from the inside, the walls are sheathed with fiberboard.

Styrofoam or glass wool serves as a heater. The floor in the change house is plank, 21 mm thick, and the roof is iron. Country panel houses are highly susceptible to changes in geometric dimensions, since their design does not provide for stiffeners.

Country change houses of frame type

The most optimal option in terms of price and quality is a frame country change house. As a basis, a wooden beam measuring 50x50 mm is used, which gives the structure stability and the ability to withstand loads.

The final cost of a frame change house depends on the material used as interior and exterior finishes. Manufacturers offer a choice of fiberboard, plywood or lining.

Important! The most expensive finishing option is lining, which, in case of shrinkage of the change house, does not swell and does not stick out, like other materials that also absorb moisture well and change their geometric dimensions.

The floor in the frame change house is double - it consists of a rough and finishing floorboard measuring 32 mm. As a heater for walls, floors and ceilings, a layer of mineral wool 50 mm thick is used. Also, the design has a vapor barrier - glassine or plastic film.

Country change houses from a bar

The most expensive, but at the same time more durable, is a country change house made of coniferous timber measuring 100x150 mm. Wall decoration in this design is usually not provided, and the ceiling, doors and internal partitions of the country house are made of lining. Manufacturers offer to choose the type of roof - one- or two-pitched, but the first is usually used for buildings up to 5 m.

If a change house made of timber is installed in an area where the winter air temperature does not drop below -10 degrees, then additional insulation of the structure can be dispensed with, but only on condition that the production process was not disrupted during the manufacture of temporary housing. If the beam is tightly laid and secured with metal brackets, and the seams are insulated with tow or linen, only in this case can one count on high strength and heat preservation inside the room.

How change houses are equipped for a residential building

For a comfortable stay, houses from cabins are equipped with all the necessary communications, the total area is divided into rooms, and several cabins are combined into one integral structure. The minimum number of rooms in a country house:

  • kitchen;
  • bedroom;
  • bathroom;
  • hozblok.

A bedroom in a summer cottage can be equipped under the ceiling

If more than two people live in a change house, then due to the limited area, bunk beds are installed in the bedroom, for this a room width of 2.5 meters is quite enough. Country houses from change houses are necessarily connected to the following communications:

  • electricity;
  • water supply;
  • sewerage.

To exclude the occurrence of emergencies, communications must be connected by specialists.

In a country house, it is necessary to make heating out of a change house, which is often a conventional solid fuel stove. If there is a backup source of electricity in case it is turned off, then heat the change house using electric heaters.

Video description

Look at the video a selection of country houses from change houses:

It is possible to install a hot water boiler and a radiator system. This option is especially convenient when the house is built from two or more cabins. In this case, one boiler is sufficient, in which the heated coolant will be transferred through pipes to the combined premises.

Country house from a change house, equipped with a solid fuel stove

The advantage of using several change houses on the site is the possibility of combining them with each other without compromising strength.

The use of two change houses, which are installed at a distance of 3 m from each other, can significantly increase the living area of ​​the house. When equipping such a country house, much more people can be accommodated in it due to the fact that the kitchen and bathroom will be equipped in a separate change house.

So that the space between the containers is also used for its intended purpose, two walls are made that will unite the change houses, and a common roof is mounted on top. Thus, it turns out that the house is quite suitable for living throughout the year.

The space between change houses can be used not only for living, but also for placing a car. In this case, instead of one wall connecting the change houses, it is necessary to equip the gate. Also, the middle part can be used as a pantry or workshop.

Video description

Visually building a house from several change houses:

If a house of two change houses will be used by only one or two people, then it is advisable to heat only one change house, and use the rest of the space exclusively for economic purposes.

House of two change houses with a common gable roof

House of two change houses with an open terrace in the middle

Variants of houses from change houses - photo examples

When choosing a house from change houses, projects can be sorted out endlessly, especially if you want something original and comfortable. Manufacturers of change houses offer consumers a huge number of different functional options for country houses, from standard ones to large and two-story ones. If you order several change houses at once for arranging one house, you will be offered many ready-made solutions for their connection.

In the photo below, a project of a change house with a canopy. By extending the roof a little, you can equip a canopy that will protect the front door from precipitation. Aesthetically, this design looks much better than a standard change house.

If the change houses are placed at a right angle, as in the photo below, you will get a very interesting design.

From several change houses, you can make a capital modular structure suitable for year-round use.

If you need to accommodate a large number of people in a small area, then you can install a two-story building.

It is possible to build multi-storey buildings from change houses to accommodate workers.

Conclusion

Cabin houses are very popular. Firstly, it is an inexpensive and convenient option for temporary residence, accommodation of workers, equipment for a summer kitchen in a private household or utility room. Secondly, quite original houses are obtained from several change houses for permanent residence. And most importantly, change houses are mobile, if you need to transfer your house to another site and even to another city, this is easy to do by hiring a truck.


Many novice summer residents often ask themselves: what is the best thing to do, buy a ready-made change house or make it yourself? As practice shows, finished products often turn out to be of poor quality and short-lived. Therefore, we definitely recommend self-construction. You can learn about all its nuances and subtleties from this article.

Why do you need a home?

Before proceeding with the design and construction of a change house, it is necessary to decide on its purpose, because its dimensions, layout and other points largely depend on this. As a rule, the change house performs the following functions:

  • residential premises - the building can be used as housing for the period of construction of the main house. Subsequently, it will not be difficult to re-equip it for other household needs, in addition, the change house can serve as an additional summer house, for example, for meeting guests;
  • economic - in the room you can store summer equipment, work clothes, etc .;
  • sanitary and hygienic - a change house can be equipped with a bathroom, for example, here you can perform an outdoor shower and install a dry closet.

If desired, a country change house can be equipped with a bathhouse or other functions. The main thing is to think carefully about all your needs and wishes in advance, so that later you don’t have to do alterations, as is often the case.

Design - we create a change house on paper

Having decided on the requirements for the change house, you need to create a plan on paper and indicate the dimensions of the structure. Most often, the building is a trailer 2–3 m by 5–6 m. Of course, it is not at all necessary to make it elongated. The main thing is that the shapes and sizes allow you to implement all the intended functions.

In order not to puzzle over the layout, you can take ready-made drawings as a basis. Adjust the dimensions if necessary. The only thing, we note that it makes no sense to make a building too large, since it will no longer be a change house, but a capital building with completely different construction costs. As a rule, a building measuring 6x3 m is quite enough for all household needs.

Next, you need to decide on the design and materials. Since the change house is an inexpensive and lightweight structure, which, if necessary, can even be moved from one place to another, we recommend making it out of wood. Next, consider two construction technologies using this natural material:

  • frame - this is the cheapest, fastest and easiest way to build, however, keep in mind that the strength and durability of frame change houses is not their strongest point;
  • from a bar in the form of a log house - like log houses, such change houses are strong and durable, but more expensive than frame counterparts.

The basis of the frame structure, as you might guess, is a frame made of timber. It consists of racks located in increments of 600 mm, and connected to each other by the lower and upper strapping (horizontally arranged boards or timber). To strengthen the racks, braces and horizontal lintels are additionally used. The frame space is filled with insulation and sheathed.

The distance of 600 mm between the racks is indicated for a reason - it is for this step that heat-insulating boards, as well as OSB, are designed. If desired, the step can be changed, but in this case you will have to cut the insulation and sheathing.

Before you start building a frame change house, draw up a diagram of the walls and floors, indicating the dimensions of all the details. This will allow you to calculate the amount of lumber and make an estimate. More details about the materials that will be used in construction, we will talk below.

Calculating lumber for a bar change house is even easier: to find out the number of crowns, simply divide the height of the wall by the height of the bar section. The length of each crown is already indicated on the plan. Therefore, an additional project can not even be done.

Foundation - even a change house needs a good foundation

If you install a change house for a month or two, then it is not necessary to build a foundation for it. It will be enough to add crushed stone, aligned in a horizontal position. To protect the bottom of the building from moisture, several bars or bricks / blocks should be laid on the bedding.

If the change house will be used as a permanent structure, you can’t do without a foundation. Of course, in our case, there is no need to carry out a massive tape structure. It is more expedient to make a lightweight base in the form of separate columns interconnected by beams (grillage). Construction begins with the preparation of the site: we get rid of the vegetation layer of soil, after which we mark the site according to the design dimensions of the building.

Then it is necessary to prepare holes for posts with a depth of about 40 cm, located at a distance of one and a half meters from each other along the length and width of the building. Cover the bottom of the holes with a layer of sand and gravel 150–200 mm thick. Be sure to compact the bedding well and align it horizontally. Then build columns of blocks or bricks 30-40 cm high above the soil level. Treat the surface of the posts with bitumen, then cover with several layers of roofing material.

Next, you need to lay the beams (beam 150x150 mm) around the perimeter of the columnar foundation. To fasten the beam to the posts, use special fasteners, the so-called studs. When laying the grillage, make sure that the beams are horizontal. If necessary, you can align the position of the beams by laying bars or boards under them, but in general, try to ensure a horizontal plane even at the stage of erecting the posts.

Between themselves, the beam can be connected "in half a tree" - in this case, even grooves are made at the junction of the beams with a depth of half a beam. The grooves must be reciprocal, i.e. in one beam, the groove is cut from above, and in the second, respectively, from below. Additionally, joints can be strengthened with self-tapping screws and steel corners. In the same way, floor beams are laid and cut into the extreme bars.

We build a change house quickly and cheaply - the nuances of frame technology

To build a frame change house, you will need the following materials:

  • timber 100x100 mm;
  • boards 35x100 mm;
  • mineral mats with a thickness of 100 mm and a density of 25–35 kg / m 3;
  • vapor barrier;
  • wind and moisture insulation;
  • finishing material - lining, block house, etc.

We begin the construction of walls with the installation of corner posts, which are made of timber 100x100 mm. To fix them, use the corners and screws, strengthen them with braces. After making sure that all the racks are vertical, connect them with an upper harness, which use a 35x100 mm board.

If the roof of the change house is single-pitched, do not forget to make one long wall 30-40 centimeters higher than the other.

Then you can install intermediate racks made of boards. They are attached to the upper and lower trim with metal corners. To give the structure rigidity, fix horizontal jumpers between them in a checkerboard pattern. In addition, install horizontal strips from the same boards above and below the openings.

If the roof of the structure is gable, lay the floor beams on the frame of the walls. Since the beams will carry practically no load, the same boards of 30-100 mm can be used. Install them with an edge on the harness and secure in this position with the help of corners. The step of the boards can be made about 40 cm.

After that, you can proceed to the insulation and sheathing of the frame. It is better to start from the roof, but we will consider this stage separately, and now we will insulate the floor and walls. Thermal insulation of the floor begins with laying the rough flooring on the floor beams. Since it will not perform a supporting function, any boards can be used for these purposes. Waterproofing is laid on top of the rough flooring, and then floor logs are installed. Do not forget to align the logs in a horizontal plane.

All roll materials, i.e. vapor barrier, wind protection and waterproofing, are mounted with an overlap of 15-20 centimeters. Moreover, it is desirable to glue the joints of the canvases with butyl rubber double-sided sealing tape, which will ensure complete tightness of the joints.

Next, the lag space must be filled with heat-insulating material, for this you can use both mineral wool and any other insulation. The surface of the log and thermal insulation must be protected from moisture with another layer of waterproofing film. Then you can install the boardwalk.

The ceiling ceiling is insulated in approximately the same way - the space between the floor beams or rafters is filled with insulation (if the roof is shed). To fix the plates, you can zigzag a wire or a nylon cord between the beams. Then, from below, a vapor barrier film is attached to the floor beams with a stapler. On top of the vapor barrier, a crate is made of a 20x30 mm lath, to which a lining or other finishing material is attached.

If the thickness of the rafters is not enough to fix the insulation between them, build them up with a bar or boards.

One of the most important points is the insulation of the walls. Not only the comfort of staying indoors and the energy efficiency of the building depend on it, but also the durability of the entire structure. We start thermal insulation with the installation of a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the frame from the inside of the walls. Previously, it is desirable to stick a sealing tape on the racks so that later there is no depressurization of the circuit in the areas where the film is attached to the frame. The vapor barrier is fixed using a stapler - the staples are driven in increments of 100-150 mm.

Then the frame space must be filled with mineral mats. In the process of insulation, observe one main rule - there should be no gaps anywhere in the walls. If cracks have formed, they need to be filled with scraps of mineral wool, otherwise cold bridges will form. Upon completion of the thermal insulation of the frame, fix the moisture-wind protection on the outside. The membrane is mounted according to the scheme described above.

A crate is attached to the frame over the windscreen. As a rule, the rails are arranged vertically. To fasten the crate, use self-tapping screws, screwing them in 25 mm increments. Then the wall cladding is done outside the OSB. The plates are also attached to the crate with self-tapping screws. In order not to cut the skin in advance, door and window openings can be cut with an electric jigsaw in place, i.e. after installation of plates. Keep in mind that 5 mm thick expansion joints must be provided between the plates. Be sure to fill these seams with building sealant or mounting foam.

Next, you need to finish with clapboard, corrugated board, siding or any other facade coating. Install doors and windows immediately. On the inside, a crate is attached to the frame in the same way as on the outside, after which the walls are sheathed with clapboard or even drywall.

As necessary, you can complete the frame structure, expanding its area, or even build another change house nearby and connect it to the first one. In this case, you get a whole house of change houses, which can be used for any of your needs.

We make a Russian folk change house-log house

If you want to make not a temporary structure, but a change house "for centuries", then it is better to build it from a log or timber in the form of a log house. For this we need the following materials:

  • timber 150x100;
  • wooden dowels;
  • interventional heater.

Lay the first crown of the house on the grillage. Be sure to align the beam with the grillage, and also make sure that the corners are 90 degrees. Connect the beam to each other "in half a tree" according to the scheme described above. Immediately lay the first crown of partitions, and in the same way cut it into the first crown of the outer walls. Then, on the first crown, fix the interventional insulation with a stapler.

Lay the second crown in the same way. To connect both crowns to the grillage, drill vertical holes according to the diameter of the dowels. To do this, use an electric drill and a special long drill. The holes should reach the middle of the lower beam and be located in the walls in increments of one and a half to two meters. Carefully hammer the dowels into the holes obtained.

Then two more crowns are laid and in the same way they are connected by dowels to the lower pair of crowns. The only thing is that the pins are installed with an offset, i.e. in a checkerboard pattern, as shown in the diagram above. According to this principle, the walls, together with the interior partitions, "rise" to the design height.

The result is a box without windows and doors. Therefore, you need to mark the door and window openings on the walls, and then cut them out with a chainsaw. First, to the left and right of the opening, temporarily fasten all the bars with boards. After making the openings, immediately install window frames made of boards. They will fasten the trimmed bars of the crowns together, preventing them from crumbling.

I must say that it is possible to make openings in the process of building walls. In this case, the bars are fastened to the left and right of the openings with dowels. You can use any option you like.

As for the floor and ceiling, all work is carried out in the same way as during the construction of a frame change house, so we will not repeat it.

If you decide to finish the change house, please note that you can start this operation no earlier than one and a half to two years after the completion of construction, i.e. after the structure has collapsed. The exception is change houses made of profiled glued laminated timber, which practically do not shrink.

Installation of the roof, or how many slopes do you need for complete happiness?

The type of roof construction depends on the purpose of the change house. If it will be used in the summer, it is better - it is easier to perform and cheaper. For its construction you will need the following materials:

  • timber 50x150 mm;
  • super-diffuse moisture-proof membrane;
  • slats 20x30 mm;
  • boards 100x20;
  • roofing material.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a shed roof looks like this:

  1. 1. Rafters are laid on long walls that have different heights. You need to put them vertically, i.e. to the edge. To fix the rafters in the Mauerlat (the upper crown of the walls or trim), you can make grooves. Additionally, use corners and screws. Since a shed roof will carry a large snow load, do not make the distance between the rafters more than 40–50 mm.
  2. 2. Fasten the moisture-proof membrane over the rafters, and then fasten the counter-lattice - slats 20–30 mm. The counter-lattice should be parallel to the rafters.
  3. 3. Next, boards are mounted on the counter-lattice perpendicular to the rafters. The step of the lathing depends on the type of roofing material, but in any case, the distance between the boards should not exceed 15-20 cm.
  4. 4. Now we lay the roofing. Since the roof will be flat, overlap the sheets more, for example, when installing slate or tiles, it should be not one wave, but two.

If you plan to use the change house not only in the warm season, but also in winter, do it better. It is based on roof trusses, i.e. isosceles triangles formed by rafter legs. From above, i.e. at the top of the triangles, a ridge run is mounted - this is a beam that connects all the roof trusses to each other. In addition, reinforce each truss truss with puffs - horizontal jumpers connecting two rafter legs between themselves.

Waterproofing and laying of roofing material is carried out according to the instructions for a pitched roof. The only thing is that if the change house is winter, it is advisable to insulate not only the ceiling ceilings, but also the roof itself. This operation is carried out according to the same principle as.

So we built a change house with our own hands, now it remains only to conduct communications to it. As you can see, there is nothing super complicated in this work. And it’s not for nothing that the popular proverb says: they don’t mold holy pots.