Passing unit for a single pipe in a bath. Chimney outlet through the roof. Connection to pipes with a rectangular cross section

Do not know how to properly make a chimney pass from a house or bath through ceiling? I will tell you about the most simple and reliable option- a special passage node. Using it, you will make a high-quality and safe chimney and reliably protect the building from fire.

How to choose and install a passage node

The most important thing that you must remember is that the passage nodes in the baths and houses are arranged with strict observance of the norms. fire safety. Any violations are fraught with a fine and an order to redesign the structure. Mistakes are fraught with a fire, so in no case should you save on this part of the work.

The safe arrangement of chimneys is described in SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning". This regulation has all the necessary information, we will analyze what is important to us:

• brick pipes- the minimum distance from the chimneys to the ceilings is 130 mm;

• For metal pipes the minimum distance from the surface to the flammable floor is 500 mm if there is no thermal protection layer in the structure, and 380 mm if non-combustible material is laid;
• Sandwich pipes keep warm and provide good traction. The distance from such a chimney to the partition depends on the layer of fire-retardant filler, but in general, the distances must be respected - from the inner wall to the partition should be at least 380 mm. It is this solution that is optimal and simplest today, and I will consider it in the review.

What is needed to carry out the work

Let's figure out what materials are needed:

Illustration	Description
	pass node. It is a box that provides the necessary indents from the partition and has a hole for a sandwich pipe. The structure may have different sizes, they depend on the outer diameter of the chimney, it can be from 115 to 300 mm. Stainless or galvanized steel can be used as a manufacturing material, the first option is much more preferable, and the second is cheaper. The price of galvanizing starts from 1000 rubles, while for stainless steel you will have to pay 3000 or more.
	sandwich pipe. If you have a chimney ordinary pipe, then this option is placed in the place of passage through the overlap. Usually one meter element is enough. If the entire chimney is made of a sandwich pipe, then you do not need to purchase anything additional.
	start sandwich. This is the name of the lower adapter from a standard pipe. It is selected according to the size of the elements you use and is sold in the same place as the main components.
	Finish sandwich. It is placed on top to go back to the standard chimney. Again, it is selected according to the size of the elements used.
	Expanded clay. It is used as a non-combustible filler for the pass-through assembly. You can use other materials, but this option is the cheapest and at the same time has all the necessary indicators to ensure the safety of the structure. Expanded clay is sold in construction stores, choose options for medium or fine fractions.
	Mounts. For a design to be safe, it must be very securely fixed. For this, special elements are used, which are selected according to the diameter of the pipes used. Installation is carried out either with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails - it all depends on the material of the walls.
	Heat Resistant Sealant. Required to process all connections. The composition must withstand a temperature of 450 degrees. For a standard chimney, one package is usually enough.

The tool needs the following:

• Perforator. If you need to drill holes for dowel-nails;
• Screwdriver. If it is necessary to screw the screws into the tree;
• Sealant gun. With it, you can apply the composition much more accurately and faster.
• ladder or table. You need to work under the ceiling, so you can’t do without these devices.

Mounting process

Do-it-yourself installation of a pass-through node for a house or for a bath is carried out according to the scheme presented below.

The work instructions look like this:

Illustration	Stage description
	The pipe is fixed before the transition. It is better to fix a conventional chimney, it is both easier and more reliable. In our case, dowel-nails were used, since the structure is located near the wall of blocks.
	The supporting frame is fixed on the beams. This element is needed if you have not yet done the overlap. But even if there is an overlap, it is easier to put the box on such support structure, and from the outside sheathe the surface with a sheet of stainless steel, so it will turn out even more reliable. When fixing the bars, select them in such a way that they do not go beyond the plane of the future ceiling.
	Putting on a starter sandwich. The process is simple: A heat-resistant sealant is applied to the docking site along the perimeter; The starting element is neatly aligned with the pipe and put on; Next, the adapter lowers to the stop, make sure that it stands exactly.
	Putting on a sandwich tube. It is most convenient to do this from the top of the partition. It is better if an assistant stands below, adjusting the position and helping to combine the elements perfectly evenly. The connection is also pre-treated with a sealant to increase the reliability of the joint. According to fire safety rules, the joint should not be flush with the partition, it should be lower so that you can later control the connection.
	A box is put on the pipe. It should fit tightly and not hang out. The work is done very carefully: gradually move the element until it falls into place. The most important thing is to keep it straight, then it will be put on without problems.
	The box is fixed on the partition. The process looks like this: Align the knot so that it stands exactly relative to the wall; Fix it with screws on both sides. This is quite enough to ensure the immobility of the structure and prevent its deformation.
	Expanded clay is poured, a lid is put on, the sequence is: Filler is poured into the box to the top. It must be evenly distributed and leveled so that it does not interfere with the lid; The cover is put on the pipe and combined with the box, fixed on it with the help of side protrusions.
	Fitting the top adapter: On the outer part sandwich pipes are applied heat-resistant sealant with a wide strip, as shown in the photo; The finishing element is neatly aligned with the pipe and put on it until it stops, being located without distortions.
	The top is fixed. A clamp is placed on the narrow part of the adapter, with which the structure is fixed on the wall. On this, the installation process of the structure can be considered successfully completed, the whole work takes 1-2 hours, you get a structure that fully complies with fire safety standards.

To increase reliability and create an additional barrier to temperature, some manufacturers sheathe the box with mineralite sheets. This material withstands temperatures up to 150 degrees and reliably insulates the outer surface from high temperatures. Such designs are ideal for wood.

Conclusion

You have learned all the necessary information on the passage nodes and will be able to easily select best option design and install it without outside help. The video in this article will help you understand the topic even better, be sure to watch it. If you still have questions - ask in the comments.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

To ensure comfort and safety in the room with furnace design, it is necessary to correctly make the passage of the chimney through the ceiling. Fire safety ensured simple rules pipe installation. All work can be done by hand.

To bring the chimney through the ceiling, it is necessary to build a unit that provides the necessary distance from the ceiling materials to the pipe. These rules are regulated by a special document, which specifies certain recommendations:

• Distance from the surface of the concrete or brick chimney to the crates or rafters should be at least 13 centimeters.
• If the chimney is ceramic and without insulation, then the distance should be as minimum 25 cm. And in the presence of a heat-insulating layer - 13 cm.

During the installation of beams, these rules must be taken into account. Their step should be about 60 cm. These recommendations apply to pipes with a layer of insulation.

The outlet must have a diameter 11.5-12 cm. If a sandwich with a heat-insulating layer is passed through the ceiling, then the nozzle should have a diameter of about 32 cm. On each side, observe distance not less than 13 cm. To calculate the distance between the installed beams, you need 13 x 2 + 32, the result is 58 cm, which corresponds to the recommended 60 cm.

You can also calculate the distance of the pipe without insulation. If a nozzle with an inner diameter of 11.5 cm., then the distance to the ceiling material must be at least 25 cm. In this case, there must be a distance between the beams 25 x 2 + 11.5, which is equal to 61.5 cm. This step is recommended for use in the construction of the ceiling.

• If the partition is protected from possible fire, then when chimney thickness 12 cm, the distance should be about 26 cm. If the nozzle is 5 cm thick, then the distance is 38 cm.
• If the partition is not protected from fire, then in the first case the distance can reach 32 cm, and in the case of the second option - up to 50 cm.

The document also says that you need to maintain a certain distance from the walls. Often the chimney is installed near the surface of the wall, which over time can lead to a fire, as the temperature inside the chimney can be 500 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary to lay the heat-insulating layer on the wall surface with your own hands, and then cover it metal sheet.

Read also: Chimney cleaning

Node types

Chimney passage through wooden floor needs to be protected from high temperature and fix the pipe in a special position. For this, cutting is intended, its second name is the “passage knot”.

It is recommended to use the device industrial production. It represents a special metal box, attached to it on one side galvanized plate. There is a hole in the middle to insert a sandwich. A special plate is installed from the side of the room, which closes the hole in the ceiling and acts as decorative element. Also, the plate is a support for the heat-insulating layer, which is placed in the gap between the beam and the pipe surface.

Many experts argue that stainless steel cutting is the best option, since the galvanized sheet under the influence of high temperatures emits harmful substances. Therefore, in a residential area or a bath, it is recommended to use stainless steel.

The ceiling unit is installed quite simply. If at the construction stage it was not envisaged to bring out the chimney, then a hole of a certain size must be made between the beams so that a chimney can be drawn. Then fix the heat insulator. To do this, you can use minerite, stone wool or asbestos. Also, experts recommend fixing metal strips.

A special device must be put on the pipe in a straight section that passes through the ceiling. Then it must be lifted required level and fix the heat-insulating layer around the edges. After that, the knot is fastened with self-tapping screws.

Products may have different configurations. In some cases it may be necessary metal cylinder, which is installed around the hole, and plate edges a little in favor of him. It should be noted that when installing such a device, the hole must also have square shape. With the help of the plate, the hole is closed. You should also protect ceiling materials from high temperatures with a heat insulator.

The node may be without a cylinder, however, around the perimeter are installed special boards made of mineralite or metal. The edges of the device must be covered with a heat-insulating layer. It is recommended to use mineralite, as it acts as a heat insulator.

Read also: Chimney Spark Arrestor

Passage through the ceiling

When removing the chimney through the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

• A metal pipe without a heat insulator should come out of the furnace. Its length should be more than one meter, as the outlet temperature is too high. Above you can use a sandwich.
• In places of passage through the ceiling, the pipe must have a protected sheath. To do this, you can use an industrial sandwich or insulate the walls with your own hands.
• Joints are allowed only before the passage or after it. Therefore, all connections must be controlled.
• The horizontal section can have a maximum length of one meter.
• The entire chimney can have a maximum of three elbows.
• It is forbidden to use a rigid mount, as the dimensions of the chimney change under the influence of high temperature.

The choice of heat insulator

When the device is fixed on the ceiling, you need to climb to the next floor or attic to fill the distance between the beams and the chimney with a heat insulator.

If the temperature in the pipe does not exceed 600 degrees, then basalt wool can be used as an insulator. However, some experts do not recommend using this option. They explain this by the fact that during the manufacturing process resins are used as a binder, and they emit harmful formaldehyde under the influence of high temperatures. In addition, the chimney produces condensate, and when wet, cotton wool deteriorates its heat-shielding characteristics. Therefore, this option is not the best.

You can fill the gap with fine expanded clay. It's lightweight and natural material, which, in case of getting wet, quickly restores its characteristics.

Until recently, most often used sand. But in this case, there is one significant disadvantage: over time, the material wakes up through small cracks, so the stove must be constantly cleaned and the distance filled again.

You can use clay. To do this, it must be diluted so that it acquires a pasty consistency.

Some experts generally do not recommend warming the knot and leaving it empty. This prevents the chimney from burning out and overheating. But this option is not the best, because wood will dry out over time and there is a risk of fire.

Aztec

Photoshop-expert

Design of the "sandwich" chimney pass-through assembly

thisregulation? And on official website chimney manufacturerhttp://www.feflues.ru/prod02-1-31.html generally sent to some

The passage of the chimney through the ceiling between floors - ceiling cutting- one of the most important stages in the construction of a bath. This is due to the high frequency of fires due to ignition wooden structures near the chimneys, namely, these are the floors and the ceiling in the baths.

Safety rules dictate the need to exclude unprotected contact between hot pipe and flammable materials. To comply with them, when installing a chimney in a bath, you need to build a special ceiling passage assembly in the form of a box using flame retardant materials, and perform it in strict accordance with the regulations.

Fire safety norms and rules

Any developer can get acquainted with what chimney equipment is considered safe according to SNiP 41-01-2003.

SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)

We are interested in paragraph 6.6.22, which dictates an indent of 130 mm in the area of ​​passage through the floors for a brick pipe made with wood protection. It is known that brick and concrete pipes have a lower heat transfer than modern metal pipes, which are most often used in baths. This means that equipping the cutting of a single-wall metal pipe without thermal protection, you should be guided by other retreat figures, which are indicated in Appendix "K":

500 mm to wood without thermal protection;


380mm from heated pipe to flammable behind thermal insulation layer.

These figures should be considered as distances from the smoke inside the chimney to the tree.

Manufacturers of stoves and chimneys provide documentation that must indicate possible meaning distances to floors from various materials. They should be guided by the independent construction of the passage bath pipe through the ceiling.

What materials can be used for fire protection when installing PPU?

Both brick, and ceramic, and metal parts of interfloor cutting units are heated to temperatures that cause a risk of wood fire. For reliable isolation combustible elements of the ceiling cake, you need to make a gasket from protective materials.

Material	Description
	Slab fireproof material based on cement with the addition of limestone, mica and cellulose. Maintains constant heating up to 150 °C. When exposed to higher temperatures, the mineralite organic filler burns out and it becomes brittle.
	This general name refers to a fibrous insulation, consisting of molten threads of various inorganic nature. It can be both minerals (basalt, dolomite, etc.), and blast-furnace production waste, slag. Slag wool does not lose its properties up to temperatures of 300 ° C; in a hotter environment, sintering of fibers occurs - binders and water-repellent additives are not as resistant to fire as the mineral component. As a result, the thermal conductivity increases sharply. As a fire-resistant material, a rigid mineral plate of the PZh-175 brand is positioned. It is able to maintain insulating properties up to 1000°C.
	Available in thicknesses from 2 to 10 mm. This is a material that perfectly protects against fire, it not only does not burn, but also does not smolder. Harmfulness can be considered a restriction on its use - asbestos fumes are undesirable in a bath. All asbestos gaskets on the steam room side must be covered with metal.
	Highly efficient and absolutely environmentally friendly heat insulator, which belongs to the group of non-combustible materials. Its thickness is 5 mm, the coefficient of thermal conductivity increases slightly with increasing temperature, it works reliably at temperatures up to 900°C.

These are materials that can protect wooden details from charring and ignition at high temperatures in a zone of strong heating. But the primary lining of the ends of the ceiling, if the necessary indents are observed, can be carried out not only by them. For these purposes, it is allowed to use materials with a flammability class G1 (low combustible).

Material	Description
	Has the designation GKLO, sheets gray color with red markings. It differs from the usual one by the presence internal reinforcement with tighter layers. This prevents the penetration of oxygen into the thickness of the material, combustion is not supported, and even in open fire material is not destroyed within 20 minutes.
	Refractory properties of the NG degree are possessed only by a product with a marking belonging to the Premium class. A sheet of the Standard class, which is not marked in any way, cannot be used to protect the tree.

The choice of thermal insulator can play a decisive role. It should be remembered that the usual mineral wool, which is sometimes recommended to be used for stuffing the passage assembly, sinters when heated and quickly loses its fire-retardant properties.

High temperature leads to a change in its structure - remaining unchanged in appearance, it can heat up significantly and no longer cope with thermal insulation. To ensure reliable thermal insulation of the chimney, it is necessary to use basalt wool, designed for operation at temperatures of 800-1000 ° C.

It is also safe to lay minerite, asbestos or basalt cardboard. Exists and tested by time a budget option thermal protection - sand was used for it (they were covered with a passage box) and clay. For example, sufficient thermal insulation of the part of the ceiling to which the box is attached is achieved by applying an even layer of clay about 2 cm thick to a metal sheet with flanging.

Video - How to install a chimney yourself. Calculations and drawings

Features of using the "sandwich" chimney when passing through the ceiling of the bath

Modern metal sauna stoves are often supplemented steel pipes black or stainless steel. Wanting to reduce hard IR radiation and make more safe place the contact of the chimney and the ceiling above the stove, the owners of the baths use a "sandwich" - a double pipe with a thermal insulation layer.

Important! The connection of the chimney elements must under no circumstances be at the level of the ceiling passage.

Contrary to popular belief, the outer shell of a stainless steel sandwich is not much colder than the main chimney. This pipe design, in principle, does not serve to protect the bath from fire - the sandwich provides best conditions for stable traction, this is its main task. When considering fire protection measures, one should not hope that the use of a sandwich at the passageway makes it possible to reduce the distances of the indents.

It is known that due to the burning out of volatile compounds in the pipe itself, the temperature in it rises for some time as the height increases. If at the level of the exit from the furnace the gases have a temperature of 800°C, at the level of 1.5-2 m, measurements will already show 850°C. The outer casing under these conditions is heated up to 300 ° C, as evidenced by the tint colors on its surface.

Wishing to quickly heat the bath, overheating the furnace, it is easy to exceed the optimal regime for the passage of combustion products through the pipe. According to the standards of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, the temperature in stainless steel chimneys should not exceed 400 ° C, tests for certification are carried out precisely for these values. Most steam lovers far exceed these parameters. From overheating, the metal quickly burns out, and you need to understand that a sandwich can turn into a single wall at any time. The insulation with which the sandwich is clogged also does not serve as a panacea for a fire. If you assemble the chimney “for smoke”, and not “for moisture”, the thermal insulator heats up during the furnace, and after cooling it is saturated with condensate - as a result, it loses its useful properties over time.

All of the above leads to a certain conclusion - you should not lightly reduce the recommended indents, relying on the protective casing of the sandwich.

Important: when using metal furnaces and chimneys made of stainless steel with a ceiling passage, the optimal distance from the smoke to the wooden structures is 380 mm!

Stages of the ceiling cutting device

The main tasks that the builder faces when arranging the passage of the chimney through the ceiling of the bathhouse is the fire protection of the ceiling and smooth vertical installation pipes. The work is carried out in three stages:

determination and arrangement of the location of the cutting unit;

installation of a finished or self-made protective casing;

thermal insulation finish.

it general rules, and specific methods of work depend on many factors - the allocated budget, preferences in the choice of materials, even on whether the technologies were observed during the construction of the bath.

The center of the pipe passage is determined using a plumb line. The cutout is made according to the markup, slightly reducing the size of the sides so that the future decorative panel covered it completely.

A self-made passage, as a rule, from the side of the steam room is decorated with a sheet of metal - galvanized or stainless steel, which also serves as a heat shield. The dimensions of the sheet must exceed the size of the cutout for the pipe.

vertically positioned chimney will pass through both the ceiling and the roof. When marking the chimney, you should start from the highest point and use a plumb line;

Using ready-made PPU designs, they are guided by the hole sizes recommended by the manufacturer;

Passing the chimney through the ceiling on their own, without an industrially manufactured unit, a preliminary calculation of the passage box is made. Strictly above the pipe passage in ceiling cake needs to be done through hole, in dimensions allowing to observe the required indents. They are calculated as follows: for example, a pipe diameter of 120 mm, a sandwich with a 50 mm insulation will pass through the ceiling. The resulting outer dimension is 230 mm. We find the allowable distance by adding two distances of indents with the inner diameter, to the smoke. According to safety standards, this is 2 * 380 + 120 = 880 mm.

Important! Well, if the exact location sauna stove and the chimney is thought out even during the drafting of the project. In this case, it is easy to calculate such an installation of the floor support beams in order to provide the necessary space for the safe passage of the pipe between them.

Otherwise, the first thing to start with is to change the design of the ceiling above the furnace. A part of the beam that is too close to the hot chimney is cut out and reinforced by installing jumpers firmly attached to the resulting ends. Then cover the ceiling.

Installation of a finished cutting unit - a through pipe

The advantages of using a factory design are ease of installation and a deliberately aesthetic appearance of the ceiling in the steam room.

It is assumed that a sandwich will be used as a chimney when laying in the finished foam. The dimensions of standard devices are small to ensure reliable insulation of a single-wall chimney.

Ceiling passage units are available for sale various configurations. At the heart of the design is a box of rectangular or round section, rigidly connected to the sheet, which serves both for protection from heat from below, and for decorative finishes. In the center there is a cutout for the pipe, the knot is selected according to its diameter. Ready-made passage structures are made of metal, most often stainless steel, and mineralite, with and without a thermal insulator gasket. The best in terms of their properties are combined, having an inner metal box and an outer minerite box with an air fire-retardant layer between them.

Install the overlap passage node in this way.

The ends of the hole cut in the ceiling are covered with a layer of heat insulator, upholstering the tree around the perimeter with it.

bottom sheet devices and all places of possible contact between metal and wood are laid with a layer of non-combustible sheet material. Here are good: minerite, asbestos and foil basalt cardboard.

On the knee, which will be located in the passage node, they put on the finished structure and bring it to the hole cut in the ceiling. From the bottom of the steam room, the finished unit is fixed in the ceiling with self-tapping screws, usually the holes for them are provided in advance by the manufacturer.

The diameter of the orifice of the through pipe is always greater than the diameter of the pipe. Rigid binding is unacceptable due to thermal deformations, a gap of at least 5 mm is required. Based on what material will be used as fire protection near the pipe, a decision is made on the advisability of insulating the gap. If necessary, the pipe at the junction is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

From above, on the floor of the attic, additional thermal insulation is carried out. The box is filled with expanded clay or fire-resistant mineral wool.

AT attic the cutting unit is left without exterior finish. If the upper floor is residential, the passage structure is decorated with a metal sheet.

Homemade pipe passage through the ceiling of the bath - step by step instructions with photos

Necessary materials:

tin for the manufacture of cutting boxes;

• stainless steel sheet;

  sheet GKLO or basalt cardboard;

  The material for backfilling the box is expanded clay, but dry clay may also be suitable.

Pipe passage in this example performed at the stage before fine finish ceiling. It does not matter, the sequence of operations does not change.

Illustration	Description
	A tin box is made - a board is taken for the fold template, the edges are fastened with rivets. The dimensions of the box correspond to the distance between the ceiling beams, if their location was thought out taking into account the future installation of the chimney. Indents are calculated according to the norms, 380 * 2 + diameter inner pipe sandwich.
	Using a plumb line, the center of the pipe passage is determined. Where the load lowered from the ceiling falls into the center of the hole for the pipe, mark the point. This will be the center of the chimney and the floor passage node. A hole is cut above the pipe. When marking it, a layer of mineralite is taken into account, which will pass along the perimeter. After laying it, the box should sit freely on the ceiling. The ends of the hole are laid with strips of mineralite, it is enough to provide thermal insulation along the edge, where the metal will come into contact with the ceiling structure.
	The tin box does not have sufficient rigidity, and galvanized profile spacers are installed to maintain its shape.
	A sheet of stainless steel is cut. Before removing the protective film, fix the exact location of the hole for the pipe. The cutout diameter leaves a gap between the pipe and the hole. Additionally, a decorative shield is prepared from the same material that will cover the junction. Using scissors for metal, carefully cut out the center of the resulting circle in sectors.
	Start cutting the heat-insulating gasket under the sheet. The template for it is a finished sheet of metal. From the tools you need a jigsaw.
	Start cutting the heat-insulating gasket under the sheet. The template for it is a finished sheet of metal. From the tools you need a jigsaw. Insert the box into place and close the hole with a sheet of stainless steel. To make sure that in the place adjacent to the box, the ceiling does not char and catch fire, this is done through a thermal protection sheet. The decorative overlay is fixed to the sheet. As a result, a reliable and beautiful screen is obtained above the furnace near the pipe.
	The last step work on the passage through the ceiling of the bath will be the thermal insulation of the pipe in the box. To do this, refractory material is poured into it to the very top. Experience shows that both sand and clay have been successfully used for these purposes. But since the dimensions of the box are not too small, preference should be given to lighter expanded clay.

When designing a bath, it is important to provide for a well-equipped chimney so that the combustion products can freely leave the room without creating a danger to those who are soaring. How to get the pipe out of the bath through the ceiling correctly with your own hands in steps? We will consider this issue in this article.

One of the options for the output of the chimney is to output it through the ceiling space and the roof. This option is more reliable and durable.

To make such a chimney, you can use different types materials, but, in any case, it is necessary to follow the rules of finishing technology.

Types of pipes

Today, several types of chimney pipes are used:

Increasingly, people are starting to pay attention to more expensive chimney finishes, preferring reliability and safety. Ordinary metal chimneys can cause a fire in a room, while brick pipe or a sandwich chimney reliably protect the bath from fire.

Chimney pipe installation rules

There are several rules that should be followed when installing a chimney:

1. before installation, it is important to carefully plan its location;
2. the pipe section located horizontally from the furnace to the tie-in should not be more than 1 meter;
3. a metal pipe must have a gap to flammable finishing elements of at least 1.5 m;
4. the chimney should be installed so that its cut does not fall on the leeward zone. This will significantly reduce the force of natural traction;
5. in the gas duct, it should be possible to clean the pipe, including from condensate.

Professionals also advise protecting a single-walled pipe with a layer of heat-insulating material.

Most often used for this basalt fiber. Outside, the insulation layer is closed with a galvanized steel casing. This will prevent condensation from forming and protect the attic from fire.

Stages of installing chimneys in the ceiling

It is conditionally possible to divide the process of installing a chimney into the ceiling space into several stages.

Stage 1: Design

You must first create detailed plan chimney location.

It is important that the chimney is located conveniently for steamers, not too close to load-bearing beams and rafters, as well as provide the necessary clearance to flammable finishing materials.

Stage 2: Purchase of a chimney and necessary materials

At the design stage, it is also worth deciding what type of chimney will be installed in your bath. After the choice is made, you can safely go shopping. Do not forget to check with the consultants in the store which Additional materials needed to install a chimney.

Stage 3: Marking the ceiling surface for the chimney opening

In order to correctly determine the location of the future chimney, you will need a building kit, with which we mark the place where the pipe outlet from the furnace should be located.

Stage 4: Cut a hole for the pipe

According to the markup made earlier, we make a hole in ceiling surface for the future chimney. It is not scary if the hole is a couple of centimeters larger than it should be.

FROM inside gaps will be closed special box, and from the attic side it will be possible to isolate the gaps with stone wool or other suitable material.

Stage 5: Marking the roof for the pipe

It's no less milestone work, which involves marking the surface of the roof under the chimney. The fact is that the surface of the roof usually has a slope. Accordingly, the greater the slope of the roof, the greater should be the area of ​​​​the hole cut under the chimney.

Stage 6: Preparing a hole in the roof

The hole in the roof is cut out in the form of an oval, and the greater the slope, the more area oval. To close the hole from the side of the street, special rubber seals are used in the future.

When choosing a sealant, it is very important to take into account the slope of the roof.

Stage 7: Installing the chimney

When choosing metal chimney necessary:

The asbestos sheet is pre-moistened in water to avoid cracks and breaks during wrapping, and it is also wrapped with wire on top to prevent the material from slipping.

In the steam room, the resulting hole is covered with a thin metal sheet or asbestos to reduce heat transfer between the chimney and finishing. over sheet metal you can fill it with expanded clay or put basalt insulation.

To cover a hole in a roof rubber compressor not suitable, as it will not withstand high temperatures. A sheet of metal should be used, which is laid on the hole, and the resulting cracks are sealed with rope asbestos, abundantly moistened with cement mortar.

sandwich chimney

The easiest to install will be a sandwich chimney, which is easy to install and ensures the fire safety of the building.

Sandwich pipes, as a rule, consist of several metal sheets, between which a fire-resistant material is laid.

Work plan:

• a knot is installed on the roof of the bath for tight fixation of the chimney pipe;
• the pipe is installed in the prepared hole in the roof;
• the space formed between the sandwich tube and the pipes larger diameter, covered with sand or expanded clay;
• if using a pipe bigger size undesirable, you should use a box for sandwich pipes, the cavity of which is also covered with expanded clay;

It is important to observe the interval from the sandwich pipe to the finishing materials. In no case should they touch, so as not to create a fire hazard.

brick chimney

The most reliable and preferred, but also quite expensive, design is a brick chimney. Before installing it, you need to carefully plan everything, not forgetting the fact that installing such a chimney in small baths is impractical.

Work plan:

• a hole is made for the pipe, the diameter of which should exceed the diameter of the pipe by 20 cm;
• then the chimney is led through the roof surface and insulated with a metal sheet;
• the structure is sealed by leading the edge of the metal sheet under the roof;
• then to installed pipe a metal umbrella is attached to protect it from moisture;
• Finishing the chimney is applying heat-resistant paint to it, which will protect the metal parts from corrosion.

Having finished the installation outside, proceed to the installation inside the steam room.

First, the box is insulated with basalt and sheathed with a foil insulator, and the first element of the chimney adjacent to the furnace is installed.

Then the second link of the chimney is installed, and the box is covered with expanded clay. After that, all the remaining segments are fixed, and a metal umbrella is installed.

This completes the installation of the chimney through the ceiling. As you can see, this is not such a complicated step-by-step procedure, which, however, requires certain theoretical knowledge and professional experience.

In any case, with a little effort you can make this work independently, without the help of professionals.

Useful videos on removing the chimney from the bath