What pipe should be for a home oven. Do-it-yourself pipe for the oven. Varieties of brick chimneys

Despite the wide range of modern and modern heating systems, solid fuel stoves are not going to give up their positions of popularity at all. This is quite understandable - the presence of such a heating facility gives a certain sense of autonomy - even with the most adverse circumstances caused by interruptions in the supply of other energy sources, a stove with a supply of fuel will help both heat the house and cook food for the family.

But the oven will only work efficiently and safely if it is designed, built or built to the highest standards. necessary requirements. And one of the key conditions for the functioning of the furnace is thoughtful and reliable system removal of combustion products - . There are several options for the equipment of this system - from laying out a classic brick pipe "the old fashioned way" to using completely new, sometimes even unexpected technological solutions using modern composite materials. And at the peak of popularity in this matter in our time, probably, are sandwich pipes for furnaces.

What are sandwich pipes for furnaces, how they differ, what you need to know about their choice and the basic rules for designing a system - all this in this publication.

What are sandwich pipes and their main advantages

The developers of sandwich chimneys set themselves the task of minimizing the disadvantages that are characteristic of almost all chimneys, regardless of the material they are made of.

Any chimney is subject to negative destructive influence both from the inside and from the outside. The combustion products have a high temperature and are highly corrosive. chemical composition, resulting in erosion or corrosion of the internal channel materials. In addition, over time, the chimney channel becomes overgrown with soot, which reduces the patency of the pipe, and as a result, the efficiency and safety of the furnace.

outside on open areas pipes are affected by external factors - high humidity, precipitation, fluctuations in air temperature outside. In addition, the temperature difference between the outside and inside the chimney leads to the active formation of condensate - and this, in turn, increases the likelihood of soot deposits.

"Classic" brick chimneys, although considered time-tested, have a whole "bouquet" of shortcomings.

• Firstly, rectangular section channel is by no means optimal - unnecessary turbulence of the gas flow inevitably occurs in it. Reduce overall traction.
• Secondly, it is impossible to achieve ideal smoothness of the channel walls - the porous structure of the brick will still contribute to soot deposits.
• Thirdly, the brick chimney itself is a very massive construction, rather complicated in construction and requiring a reliable foundation.

How to lay out a brick chimney

If this option is chosen, then it is necessary to strictly observe a number of important rules. How to fold a brick chimney on your own - in a special publication of our portal.

• And fourthly, even quality brick under the influence of the whole complex negative influences prone to erosion, and the picture of crumbling chimneys is by no means uncommon.

This means that in order for the chimney to be optimal, it must be made with a round cross section, smooth inner walls, from heat-resistant, erosion-resistant and corrosion-resistant material. and light enough not to weigh down the entire furnace structure. It would seem that all these requirements are met modern views stainless steels. However, such a simplified scheme is impossible for a number of reasons:

• Any metal has a high thermal conductivity, and a high temperature difference inside the chimney channel and outside can have a destructive effect on thin walls, and most importantly, leads to abundant condensed water vapor, which is always contained in the combustion products.
• The rapid cooling of gases in open areas of the chimney will inevitably lead to a decrease in the draft of the furnace.
• The sections of the metal pipe located inside the building are heated to very high temperatures, and this is unsafe both from a fire point of view and from the standpoint of a high probability of accidental injury - a burn.

This complex of problems would be completely or to the maximum extent possible resolved by creating a sandwich chimney structure. The inner channel and the outer surface of this design are two separate metal cylinders separated by a layer of heat-resistant thermal insulating material with a pronouncedly low thermal conductivity.

The inner duct must always be made of a special type of stainless steel, with a reliable welding of the seam - usually argon welding is used.

The outer casing is also metal, but options are already possible here. Of course, the most resistant to external influences will be a stainless steel casing. However, sometimes, in order to save money, they also purchase cheaper options in which the outer pipe is made of galvanized steel.

Mineral wool is most often used as a thermal insulation layer. basalt fiber as the most resistant to high temperatures. high density basalt wool (from 120 to 200 kg / m³) provides the necessary structural strength. The thickness of this layer can vary - from 25 and even up to 100 mm. It depends on the parameters heating equipment and, to a certain extent, from climatic conditions region.

The great convenience of this design is that it carefully considers the issues of mounting individual parts in single system. For this, connecting nodes are provided in the form of sockets and narrowed sections, special clamps, stoppers, sometimes flanges, etc.

Such a chimney system for a furnace immediately acquires a number of important virtues :

• The mass of the entire chimney system assembly is not so large, that is, it will not be necessary to strengthen the foundation of the furnace and its structure, as is the case with a brick pipe.
• The chimney can be placed on brackets vertically along the outer wall of the building. And this is a simplification of assembly, especially when passing through floors, and significant savings usable space indoors.
• The system is very "flexible" in terms of the possibilities of its placement. Manufacturers provide a wide range of additional components and components that allow you to quickly and reliably assemble the chimney of the required configuration. It becomes possible to bypass possible obstacles without resorting to large-scale alterations in the design of the house.

• The temperature difference between outside and inside is compensated by a thermal insulation layer. This stability guarantees normal stable traction, and condensation and soot deposits are minimized.
• The outer surface of the sandwich pipe at correct assembly does not heat up to critical temperatures, that is, the safety of the chimney operation is significantly increased.
• The assembly of such a chimney, subject to all technological recommendations, is an accessible and intuitive event that does not require any special training.

Such chimneys also have certain limitations :

• A quality set will be quite expensive.
• Over time, under the influence of high and low temperatures signs of depressurization may appear at the junctions of individual nodes - this requires special attention: regular inspections and, if necessary, preventive maintenance.
• Limited overall service life. Despite the fact that high-quality stainless steel is highly resistant, aging processes also do not bypass it. As a rule, manufacturers guarantee up to 15 years of trouble-free operation of their products. However, any other chimney for such a period will most likely require some kind of repair and restoration work.

How to choose a metal sandwich chimney

As already mentioned, the cost of such a chimney system is quite high, and replacing low-quality pipe sections can result in considerable costs. Therefore, it is very important to be able to correctly evaluate products when choosing, so that disappointment does not come after one or two years of operation.

Selection criteria can be roughly divided into several categories. So, first of all, the quality of the materials used in the production of sandwich pipes is evaluated. The necessary linear parameters are selected - that is, the diameter of the chimney, the height of the future pipe, the thickness of the insulation layer. It is important to immediately think over the features of the structure being created in order to assess whether all the components are commercially available for its installation.

Assessment of the quality of manufacturing materials

To the untrained eye, all stainless steels look the same. The new pipe shines - but this is not at all a criterion for the quality of the metal.

The same "beautiful and shiny" pipe after a short period of time can be deformed and even simply burn through - alas, there is a lot of evidence of this on the Internet. And such a situation is a direct road to a fire or carbon monoxide poisoning.

Unfortunately, we have to state that the increased demand for such chimneys has also given rise to the "shadow sector" of their production, where materials are used that are of little use for such purposes. There is another situation when a perfectly high-quality sandwich was used in conditions for which it was simply not designed. For example, a pipe that is quite suitable for a gas boiler is unsuitable for use with a solid fuel stove.

Stainless steel grade

When choosing sandwich pipes, it is necessary to focus on the steel grade, which is used primarily for the internal channel. This parameter should be indicated in the passport documentation of the product, unless, of course, it is produced by a bona fide manufacturer. If the steel grade is not indicated, then it is better to look for another option.

So, the following grades of stainless steel can be found:

— AISI 430. Such steel belongs to the category of the most inexpensive. It is quite suitable for the outer lining of a sandwich, since its resistance to atmospheric phenomena- quite enough. But for inner pipe it doesn't fit perfectly. Its composition predetermines unimportant weldability, that is, it is very problematic to obtain a sealed seam. Such steel does not meet the requirements of increased heat resistance.

— AISI 439. This alloy is enriched with titanium additives, which significantly increases its resistance to corrosion and mechanical strength. Pipes made of such steel are quite suitable for any gas installations, as well as for solid fuel boilers and furnaces, but only a small heat output.

— AISI 316. This steel has a pronounced corrosion resistance to almost all aggressive substances. Thermal stability is average, so the pipe is only suitable for gas-powered equipment.

— AISI 304. Steel is not the most high performance heat resistance, therefore, it is usually not used by serious manufacturers from use as an internal channel. Perfect for outer shells.

— AISI 321 and AISI 316i. They have excellent heat resistance and good ductility, easily amenable to high-quality welding. Such pipes are quite suitable for most types of boiler and furnace equipment, as they can withstand heating up to 850 ° C without deformation.

— AISI 310S. Fully versatile steel that can withstand temperatures up to 1000°C. Suitable even for powerful solid fuel stoves and boilers operating on the principle of afterburning pyrolysis gases. The only conditional drawback is the high price.

Knowing the parameters of your furnace, you can choose the optimal grade of stainless steel.

Do not forget about another way to check stainless steel. Of course, it will not give an accurate picture, but it will help you immediately avoid buying a low-quality fake:

It is necessary to take an ordinary magnet and try to “glue” it to the inner wall of a vertically standing sandwich pipe. The magnet should not be held - ideally it will just slide down. If it stays in place or goes down with visible braking, the “black” component of such steel is too high, and the pipe is unsuitable for a chimney.

Type of insulation material

As already noted, as insulation material for the thermal insulation layer, only basalt mineral wool should be used. No way, whatever it seems attractive price, you should not purchase a sandwich pipe filled with glass wool. The thermal conductivity coefficient of glass wool is no worse, the heat resistance is completely different. At temperatures of about 300 ° C, its sintering begins, subsidence in size, and all its advantages are reduced to zero. In addition, fiberglass is very brittle, and the insulation layer does not differ in volumetric stability, it is prone to shrinkage.

In really high-quality sandwich pipes, manufacturers use heaters from leading brands - ROCKWOOL, PAROC and the like.

The diameter of the chimney channel and the thickness of the insulation

Manufacturers provide a fairly wide range of diameters. So, models are produced with an inner pipe from 110 to 300 mm, with different thicknesses of the insulation layer, that is, different external diameters of the structure.

If new equipment, a boiler or a furnace is purchased, then the required diameter of the chimney pipe must be indicated in the passport data - this value should be followed. It is more difficult if the chimney is planned to be installed on a brick or home-made one - here it is important not to make a mistake with this parameter.

In this case, you can do it in several ways. The first, simple one, is to navigate according to the table showing the dependence of the thermal power of the equipment and the diameter of the chimney.

You can also focus on the approximate consumption of an existing furnace of one or another fuel. In this case, the following formula is used to calculate:

S=Vg/wg

S- cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney channel.

Vg is the volume of combustion products.

wg- the speed of movement of gases through the chimney (optimum is 2 m / s).

Thus, to calculate the diameter, it is necessary to apply the formula for the area of ​​a circle:

d = √4 ×S/π = √(4 ×Vg /wg) /π = √2 ×Vg /π

The value remains unclear. Vg. It is calculated as follows:

Vg = M × Vy × (1 +T / 273) / 3600

M- the total approximate mass of fuel burned in one hour.

Vy– specific volume of combustion products from combustion of 1 kg of fuel.

T- temperature at the outlet of the chimney

273 - the difference between the value of temperature zero in degrees Celsius and Kelvin.

3600 - the number of seconds in an hour, to bring the value to a single value.

So the formula looks like this:

d = √(2 × M ×Vу × (1 + T / 273) / (3600 × π))

Values Vy and T you can accept tabular ones using the table below.

Surely, the formula will seem “heavyweight” to many, not conducive to independent calculations. To simplify the task, a calculator is placed below, in which the necessary arithmetic ratios are already laid down.

The technology of laying a brick chimney in itself is quite simple and understandable, since, unlike the brick oven itself, the pipe usually does not have internal channels that are complex in configuration. However, despite the relative simplicity of the design, one cannot ignore the enormous importance of this department of the furnace, since the quality of the heating of the house and the safety of both the building itself and the people living in it directly depend on it. Therefore, in order for all the work to be crowned with success, it is necessary to approach it with the utmost care, relying on the recommendations of experienced craftsmen and on the developed and tested design schemes.

When erecting a chimney, it should be remembered that the evenness of the inner walls of the channel is no less important than aesthetics. outdoor masonry. Not only the stability of the required draft in the furnace depends on this circumstance, but also the duration of operation of the chimney without cleaning, since the smoke rising through the pipe leaves on smooth walls, without protruding mortar and deep seams, a much smaller amount of fuel combustion waste, and the channel overgrows much slower.

What are brick chimneys?

Chimneys of brick ovens can have different types, depending on the place of their installation, the design of the furnace, and also on how much heating appliances will be connected to the pipe. So, there are three main types of chimney brick pipes: these are mounted, root and wall.

• Wall-mounted chimneys . The most widely used constructions are packed pipes. They are good because they are compact and do not occupy at all additional space indoors, but are simply a vertical extension of the oven.

They are erected on top of the last, blocking the furnace brick row, around the left hole. Then the pipe is passed through the attic floor, attic, truss system and rise above the roof.

• Indigenous chimneys . This type of pipe is installed in cases where it is planned to connect a metal furnace to it, or several heating appliances located on one or even several floors.

In addition to metal, such a pipe can also be connected to brick ovens. This type of chimney is especially convenient if it is necessary to build two stoves in the house in neighboring rooms. For example, a kitchen needs an oven with hob, and for the next room - only heating. In order not to lay out a separate pipe for each of them, a root chimney is built between the rooms, to which both heaters are connected. Not only two, but also three or four stoves located on different floors of the house can be connected to a pipe of this type. In any case, it is necessary to calculate the size of the internal channel of the chimney very accurately, otherwise normal draft may not be ensured when several devices are operating simultaneously. The answer to the question why may be different.

• Wall chimneys line up near the main (external or internal) walls or are built into them. They can be used, just like the main ones, to connect several furnaces located on different floors of the building.

The convenience of this design lies in the fact that it is, as it were, outside the living quarters, without occupying their area. For example, on the first floor of the house a fireplace can be built and connected to the wall chimney (there the pipe will be more like a wall chimney according to the principle of structure), and on the second floor a chimney pipe is embedded metal furnace(in the same way as in the version with the root requirement).

The disadvantages of this version of the chimney are the considerable cost of the project and the complexity of the work. Firstly, the construction of this structure will require much more building material. Secondly, the chimney, if it is partially on the street, requires serious warming measures, otherwise in winter period, with temperature changes, condensate will form in the internal channels, which will significantly reduce the efficiency of the heater. Therefore, if this chimney option is chosen, then it would be more prudent to sacrifice the area inside the premises and bring the pipe along inner wall at home.

Parameters of brick chimneys

The main sections of the brick chimney

A brick chimney is divided into departments that have an owl purpose and are named differently. These features must be immediately clarified so that in the future it will be easier to understand the description of the work on the construction of the pipe.

1 - Pipe head. Laying out this part of the chimney, the bricks are shifted into outside to get a kind of "visor", as if hanging over the lower sections, partially protecting the pipe walls from atmospheric precipitation.

2 - The neck of the pipe is located immediately below the head and has the same perimeter over its entire height, without protrusions, extensions or narrowing.

3 - "Otter" has more complex scheme masonry, as it has a protective function. Firstly, the “otter” masonry, hanging over the gap formed at the junction of the roofing material and the pipe walls, closes it from the penetration of precipitation, and forms a space for the installation of a waterproofing material. Secondly, its expanded walls become a guarantee of safety - at the point of passage through roofing due to the increased thickness creates required level thermal insulation.

4 - A metal or other sheet (apron), mounted in the lower part of the otter, forms a kind of ebb, which closes the junction of the brick wall of the pipe and the roofing material.

5 - "Fluffing" - this expanded part of the pipe, located in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits passage through the attic floor. The walls of the "fluff", like the "otter", are thicker than other flat sections of the chimney - this is necessary for fire safety, since the attic floor very often consists of flammable materials, and they cannot be allowed to overheat.

6 - Roofing structure.

7 - A riser is a straight pipe section that has a flat masonry over its entire height and is located in attic space from "fluff" to "otter".

8 - Attic floor.

9 - An umbrella cap is often fixed on top of the head, which will protect the internal chimney channel from water and debris entering it.

You may be interested in information about what is

The main function of the chimney is to effectively remove combustion products from the combustion chamber into the atmosphere. To do this, the chimney is connected to numerous channels located in furnace design with which it must interact harmoniously. If the stove and chimney are built correctly, in accordance with the developed parameters, then during the operation of the heater, good draft should be created inside the channels, which will contribute to the timely removal of smoke to the street. However, at the same time, this should not lead to the fact that the heat generated by it will literally fly out of the furnace “into the pipe”. In a word, everything needs a “golden mean”.

Cross section of the chimney channel

For selection correct parameters section of the chimney channel, you need to take into account the power of the furnace, as well as the size of the combustion chamber. The flue ducts will remain clean longer if their inner walls are made smooth, without protrusions and sagging of the solution.

For this reason, during the laying of bricks, the excess masonry mortar that has come out in the seams must be cleaned off not only from the outer, but also from the inner walls. Some owners of houses equipped with fireplaces or stoves use another way to achieve the smoothness of the walls of the channel - they install inside a brick chimney ceramic pipe, called a tab.

The advantage of this design is not only that the inlay has absolutely smooth inner walls. It is round in cross section, that is, it has no corners, which means that the smoke flows will not encounter obstacles in their path and, at the same time, unnecessary turbulences and the “back draft” effect will not be created.

On the right in the illustration, the "ideal" movement of the flow of hot gases, which are in the pipe round section twist into a regular spiral and meet no resistance.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the fact that chimneys with a large width, which are still installed in old houses, often have bad traction. This is due to the fact that the air heated in the furnace in a large space inside the pipe cools quickly, which leads to the formation of condensate, which contributes to a decrease in thrust, as well as smoke in the premises, and the channel quickly overgrows with soot. To heat a stove with such a chimney design, you will need to use too much fuel. Therefore, it would be most rational to fix them by dismantling the wide upper part of the chimney, then narrowing the shaft and installing a round or square with rounded corners, ceramic, metal or asbestos insert into it.

Now from the form - to linear parameters. The size of the internal section of the chimney channel is one of the most important characteristics, since the efficiency of the furnace directly depends on it. The correct ratio of the power of the heater and the dimensions of the pipe section must be observed. Another guideline for determining the correct size of the channel can be the opening of the blower door - in any case, the cross section of the pipe should not be less than the blower hole.

The cross section of the chimney shaft, relative to the size of the combustion chamber window, can be determined as follows. For fireplaces with an open firebox, the size of the chimney opening is on average 1:10. However, depending on the shape of the section and the height of the pipe, this indicator may vary in one direction or another. Approximate values ​​of the cross-sectional area of ​​the channel (in percent) are shown in the table below.

Ratiof/F in % (f is the cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney channel;F is the area of ​​the combustion chamber window)

It is clear that in addition to the size of the furnace window, it is also necessary to build on the reasonable height of the pipe - it will look absolutely ridiculous, for example, a huge 10-meter pipe on the roof of a small squat country house.

The calculation itself is easy. According to the table, based on the height of the pipe and the shape of its internal channel, the optimal f / F ratio is determined. Then, based on the area of ​​​​the furnace window, it will not be difficult to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe chimney channel. Well, then, using geometric formulas, it remains only to bring the resulting value to linear dimensions - the diameter for round pipe or the length of the sides for a rectangle.

This calculation algorithm is implemented in the calculator below.

Homeowners, as a rule, take the organization of heating in their home with all seriousness, choose the safest models of boilers, turn to experienced stove-makers. However, it is sometimes overlooked that incorrect chimney installation is often even more dangerous.

The chimney is the most important element heating system in a private house, the assembly of which is carried out in accordance with building codes and requirements fire safety. Installing a chimney without following these rules is fraught with irreversible consequences - a fire or carbon monoxide poisoning in the house. Today's article will tell about the types of chimneys, the device and installation methods.

The chimney pipe serves to transfer smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere, it starts from the inlet pipe of the heater in the house and ends above the roof ridge with a protective umbrella. In private construction, the following types are mainly used:

The material from which the chimney is made can be correctly selected based on three factors: compliance with the material of the heater, low thermal conductivity and tightness of the joints.

Chimney outlet methods

The main task of the chimney is to remove smoke outside the house, which can be organized in several ways. The choice of pipe insertion point depends on the location of the heater, the free area and the type of chimney. Use the following pipe placement options:

External placement is well suited for the bulky design of a brick chimney, and if you bring a metal pipe through the wall, you will have to take care of additional insulation or the use of special sandwich pipes.

Chimney Requirements

The selection of elements is carried out taking into account the requirements specifications heating device. In order for the system to work smoothly, the basic principles of chimney design must be observed:

1. A round shape is preferred, as combustion products and dust accumulate in the corners of the pipe. Round chimneys require less cleaning than rectangular and square ones.
2. The cross section of the pipe must not be less than the diameter of the heater nozzle. It is calculated that for every kilowatt of power, 8 sq. see section. Usually information about required amount chimney is contained in the instructions for the heater.
3. Each heater requires its own chimney. In some cases, you can deviate from this rule, but then the devices should be located at the same height, the distance between the connection points is 1 m or more. And the size of the pipe section should take into account the total power of the heat generators.
4. The total length of the horizontal sections of the chimney cannot exceed 1 m; violation of this rule reduces the draft force.
5. The chimney ends 0.5-1.5 m above the ridge, at flat roof– 0.5 m above the surface.

The main criterion for selecting pipes - fire safety requirements and compliance with a heat generating device, appearance, aesthetics and saving space inside the house - are secondary.

Mounting sequence

Installation of an internal chimney begins with drawing up a diagram and calculation required amount pipe segments. To assemble correctly, the device is performed in the following order:

Scheme of the chimney outlet through the corrugated roof

After the installation is completed, it is necessary to start the heating system, check the draft and the tightness of the connections - even a slight slight smoke indicates serious problems, the solution of which is unsafe to postpone.

Installing a chimney in a house is a responsible event, the quality of which depends on the comfort and safety of the heating system, so follow the recommendations of the manufacturers, the installation technology.

Video instruction

Laying a chimney is more difficult than installing a sandwich pipe. However, this design will last much longer and has better decorative properties. The main task for a brick chimney is to remove combustion products and create draft in the furnace. When building a brick chimney with your own hands, you must follow the fire safety rules. Brick roof chimney is durable, can withstand sharp drops temperatures, so they will last a very long time.

Brick chimneys are divided according to their characteristics into:

According to the material on:

• brick;
• metal;
• Asbestos-cement (sandwiches).

By installation method:

• Indigenous;
• mounted;
• Wall.

Indigenous chimneys are installed next to the stove, connecting them to the chimney. Several heating devices can be connected to them, but the construction of indigenous ones requires more accurate calculations. With improper construction, combustion products can enter the house.

The most common brick chimney is a wall-mounted chimney. This is a classic brick chimney. The chimney is installed on top of the heating stove.

Wall mounted according to outer wall at home. It can be root or mounted. Most often they are built to save money. It is easier to build such a chimney, but it requires additional costs for insulation with insulation.

Construction of a chimney on a brick roof

A brick chimney consists of several parts, consider an example of a wall-mounted one:

• Cap. Mostly made from metal. It prevents snow, rain and dirt from entering the chimney system. Often used as decoration.
• head. The protruding part of the bricks, which prevents raindrops from running down the pipe shaft, performs a decorative function.
• Neck. The length and inclination of the neck depends on the bend of the roof. The height of the pipe on the roof affects the traction power.
• Otter. The otter performs several functions. It increases resistance to wind loads. The increased diameter of the otter acts as a thermal insulation between the roof and the chimney. To seal the seam between the roof and the otter, special sealants or galvanized sheets are used.
• The chimney riser is the longest part of the chimney, connecting the fluff to the otter.
• Fluff, like an otter, a thickened part of the chimney. It is located in the floor between the room and the attic, protecting the floor beams from overheating. Sometimes, instead of fluff, a metal container with heat-resistant materials (sand, expanded clay) is installed.
• The entire lower part of the chimney is subjected to increased thermal loads, therefore it is optimal to take a fire-resistant (chamotte) brick for channeling. The smoke damper allows you to regulate the incoming air, it is made of metal (but such a damper can be bent under the influence of temperatures) or laid out of brick.

General building rules

• The height of the pipe above the roof;
• Main material;
• Solution.

The height of the brick pipe is calculated taking into account the slope of the roof and the height of the ridge.

Important! From correct height air force depends. Also, this is a rule fire safety. Air turbulence can cause a fire if the roof is not fireproof.

Pipe Height Calculation

masonry chimney is carried out with red brick brand M200. Red brick is able to withstand temperatures up to 800 degrees Celsius, but for laying channels near the heating part of the furnace, it is better to use fireclay, refractory brick to avoid splitting or burning of the material. All stacked bricks must be of high quality (smooth on the sides). On the uneven surface the formation of soot will accelerate, which leads to a decrease in traction and even ignition. When laying inner part need to be cleaned at the seams immediately.

There are two types of mortar for laying a chimney. Clay or cement-clay. Usually all furnaces were laid out on clay mortar, since clay is refractory and does not crack, but to increase the strength of the masonry, in masonry mortar you can add cement.

Construction order

It is best to provide a stove with a brick chimney on initial stage construction, otherwise there will be a problem with making holes in the roof, ceiling, in an additional foundation. A foundation is poured under a brick oven.

If you lay out the oven in the bath, then a channel measuring 250 by 120 will be enough. For masonry, you can purchase shortened bricks or cut them with a grinder.

Try not to make the seam too thick. The larger the seam, the more likely it is to expand under temperature, which means that the possibility of cracks increases.

For a metal stove, you can install a chimney from prefabricated sandwich pipes and overlay them with bricks, this will provide a beautiful appearance.

First, prepare your tools. You will need:

• Mason's trowel (for applying mortar);
• Pickaxe or hammer (for splitting bricks);
• Bulgarian with a diamond circle;
• Level;
• Plumb;
• Rule.

1. Having chosen the desired masonry scheme, prepare tools and mortar. Measure the height from the smoke damper to the fluff.
2. Start laying from the oven, as you lay out the first row, check the slope with a level. To begin with, you can lay out the brickwork without mortar in order to understand the amount of work and dimensions.
3. On the laid out first rows of bricks, you can stretch the beacons vertically to the ceiling, for the convenience of further laying.

1. Continue laying until fluff. You need to count the number of bricks nearby. As mentioned earlier, the fluff has an increased thickness. The expansion should be laid out ¼ of the thickness of the brick in each row., while the fluff should be pressed tightly against the floor beams.

Here is one of the fluff masonry schemes.

1. The stability of the scheme depends on the reliability of the adjoining of the fluff to the sides of the overlap. Under the influence of wind, the pipe can move. Movement will break the tightness on the roof and roof, leading to leaks.
2. In the same way, move from the fluff to the chimney shaft and bring it up to the roof.
3. The laying of the otter is similar to the fluffing device, but more difficult, since the roof has an angle of inclination and the increase in diameter will occur systematically. Scheme of laying out an otter.

1. The head is laid out on a quarter of a brick. It can be laid in several rows or in one, depending on the appearance of the brick pipe on the roof. In the last row of brickwork, you can mount a metal mesh. If the chimney is not used for a long time, then birds can nest in it.
2. The protective cap is fixed with dowels.

How to calculate the cross section of a brick pipe

The work of a brick chimney is to move air from the furnace part to the outside outlet. The chimney creates draft, which appears from the difference in temperature and pressure. The size of the section must be calculated based on the power of the heating element and the furnace part. The chimney must be smooth so that nothing obstructs the movement of air and soot does not collect. Sometimes, for this, a smooth tin pipe is built into the chimney.

The inner diameter will depend on the total length of the chimney and the power of the boiler (furnace). On the normal work also affects the number of channels inside the furnace. If the pipe is too long and the cross section of the chimney is too large, then when low power furnace (boiler), this will lead to its cooling or a decrease in traction. The question often arises which pipes provide better traction? The thrust does not depend on what material the pipes are made of - steel or brick.

For a fireplace with an open kindling window, the ratio of the cross section of the chimney to the window will be 1 to 10 (the cross section of the pipe to the area of ​​the kindling window). This applies to all pipe shapes.

In an oven with a closed system, the cross-sectional ratio will be 1 to 1.5

Hole calculation scheme:

For example: With a firebox window size of 600 by 700 mm, the total size will be 0.42 square meters. For square section pipes, with a chimney height of 6 meters, the best will be 11.6 percent. Now we multiply 0.42 by 0.116, we get 0.0787 sq.m. The cross section for the pipe must be taken into account based on the height of the pipe. A seven-meter pipe in a bath, two meters high, will not look aesthetically pleasing.

Switching from brick to sandwich

Brick chimneys have good draft and last a long time. However brickwork pipes can collapse, especially under the influence of external environment. The destroyed layer can prevent the exit of combustion products and reduce traction. For mounting new pipe, you can put the transition from a brick pipe to a sandwich.

An adapter is used for connection. square shape at the base, and cylindrical on the other side. Inside the adapter there is a layer of basalt wool.

When switching from sandwich panels to brick, you need to use two adapters. One above the brick chimney, the other in the attic.

The distance from the sandwich pipe to the combustible structure of the house is filled with fireproof material, about 400 mm.

Refractory sealants are used to seal the seams in the structure.

When switching from square pipe on a round one, it is impossible to reduce the cross section of the pipe and make additional protrusions so as not to disturb the draft.

Furnace and chimney cladding with ceramic tiles

New ovens usually look good. However, some prefer to tile it. This is not only beautiful, but also will increase the service life, especially in the bath, where there is high humidity. How to lay tiles with your own hands? (if you understand how to lay bricks for a chimney, then you can handle it). The main thing is to choose the right tile adhesive and cladding material.

How to lay out a tile so that it does not peel off? When facing conventional ceramic tiles, there is a high possibility of peeling or cracking. best material there will be clinker, terracotta, porcelain stoneware.

Terracotta is more durable. It is made under pressure.

Clinker and porcelain tiles have increased impact resistance, thickness and high fire resistance.

The surface of the chimney is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and moistened. From above, with the help of dowels, a metal mesh is pulled. The mesh improves the adhesion of the plaster to the brickwork.

Plastered with a mortar of cement and clay. The ratio of clay to cement is 3 to 1 and 0.2 parts of sand. After plastering, the oven is heated. After, you can glue the tiles.

The tiles are glued to heat-resistant glue, using beacons and crosses to align the rows. For grouting the seams use the same glue.

If you make an effort and patience, you can cope with the construction of the chimney with your own hands, saving on inviting specialists.

In addition to our article, watch the video: