Installation of brick chimneys. How to make a brick chimney: device, dimensions, do-it-yourself masonry. What is a brick chimney and where is it used

Laying a brick pipe is a rather painstaking process. If you have not done laying just bricks, then you should not try.

It is better to turn to specialists. But if you held the trowel in your hands, then it can be done with your own hands. How to lay out a brick pipe - we will consider in detail today. A video will also be presented in this article, where you can see everything clearly.

Chimneys: classification

By design, chimneys are divided into:

prefabricated;
mounted;
Brick indigenous;
Wall

The laying of a brick pipe is determined by its design. There are generally accepted provisions that must be followed when choosing any design.

Brick mounted ones are a kind of massive assembly that hangs over the stove masonry. The optimal thickness of the masonry is not less than half a brick. Brick indigenous are an assembly that stands separately in the form of a riser. The assembly is constructed from an asbestos-cement pipe having a diameter of about 150-250 millimeters.
The design team is constructed using heat-resistant concrete in the form of free-standing blocks. But wall mounted in the main wall of the house in order to save the volume of the building, its area.
The chimney, which is built into the load-bearing wall, must be located indoors.

Attention: The chimney is not advised to be installed in the outer walls, because the outside air can cool the flue gas, reduce draft and form condensate on the inner walls of the duct.

As a result, it becomes impossible to obtain high efficiency from a furnace with this tube. If they don’t come up with another method for arranging the wall pipe, then they install a pilaster with a ledge towards the building. When installing this assembly, an important condition must be observed: the work must be carried out with the maintenance of the main distances from the smoke to the outer wall. The distance can be 1.5 bricks, 2 bricks and 2.5 bricks.

The location of the pipe is only vertical, without retreat in the inner area.

If there is a pull in the assembly, then it must be more than one meter.

The internal section of the pipe should fluctuate within 140x140 mm. In order to create optimal traction, a pipe height of at least five meters is recommended.

If the height is less than 5 meters, then a deflector-diffuser is used to create traction. With the simultaneous use of a fireplace and a stove in a building, two chimneys are installed, since with different drafts one of the hearths may begin to smoke.

If the building is built of wood, then a thickening of approximately 1 or 1.5 bricks is erected in the pipe junction areas.

Structures from a chimney that are prone to easy fire are covered with sheets made of metal or asbestos-cement sheets. To eliminate the possibility of drifting the pipe with snow, its height should be about half a meter higher relative to the roof. If the pipe collapses, this can happen precisely as a result of this, because moisture can get here. So don't neglect it.

The end of the pipe head can be protected by a steel edging or a metal cap.

In the place where the chimney exits, the installation of the passage through the roof is carried out in order to minimize the risk of moisture entering the attic.

The passage unit can be made by hand from sheet steel.

The deflector on the pipe performs the function of preventing the draft from tipping over in the opposite direction. If there is no deflector, then the pipe head should probably be beveled.

Pipe laying

Now let's look at how to fold a brick pipe and provide for everything. The sequence of work is quite important here. It is also necessary to observe the masonry technology. Everything is done in the following order.

Need a tool

To build a chimney quickly with your own hands, you will need some tools and fixtures.

They should include:

Master OK;

Devices for measurements;

sheet iron;

Clamps for laying bricks;

Hearth, red, and also fireclay bricks;

Sand-lime mortar;

asbestos-cement slab;

Pickaxe;

trowel;

Solution container

Work order

The main component of any stove or fireplace is the chimney. It performs the role of eliminating gases and harmful substances resulting from the combustion of fuel.

There are several main types of chimney:

Traction and location

Of course, the chimney must certainly be in a vertical position, and inside it must be impeccably smooth and without indentation.

The optimal internal section of the chimney is more than 14x14 cm. Only in this case, all harmful gases and vapors will be freely removed. The height must be at least five meters from the level of the grate.

Attention: If it is not possible to take the pipe to the desired height, then you can install a deflector-diffuser, which significantly improves traction.

Trumpet: its device

The chimney of the furnace consists of concrete elements.

These should include:

Riser;

neck;

Smoke damper;

Metal cap;

headline;

masonry

Attention: It is worth taking note that the laying of the chimney must be done as tightly as possible.

As a rule, a special stove brick is chosen for the chimney, based on red clay, full-bodied and refractory fireclay bricks.

But the double silicate brick M 150, endowed with high resistance to frost, will also fit perfectly, and it is this property that we will need when we take the pipe to the roof.

Let's go back to the solution. Since hazardous products of combustion pass through the brickwork, the joints between the bricks should not be so tight.

Caution: Due to the fact that a conventional mortar is permeable to carbon dioxide, it is recommended to resort to a mortar based on sand and clay.

So, we proceed directly to the masonry.

Brick for chimneys is described above, but a combination can also be made here. For example, make the head of a brick pipe brick and use a metal insert inside.

In this option, it will only be necessary to make rings of a brick chimney with good sealing.

Do-it-yourself brick pipe is made in the following order:

First, lay out several rows without using a mortar, adjust the brick. Now we carefully look at whether protrusions have formed and whether everything fits normally.

The next step is to apply mortar to the surface of the bricks. Here we will definitely need a level. With it, we check the horizontal masonry guide. But with a suspension we measure the vertical guide. A more secure bond is guaranteed if the brick is soaked in water before applying the sand-and-clay mortar.

After we have laid out five rows, lightly wipe the inner area of \u200b\u200bthe masonry with a damp cloth. This will ensure complete mashing of the brick pipe from the inside, which guarantees the tightness and tightness of the joints.

The correct geometric shape is achieved thanks to the usual rectangle made of metal, with which we check the evenness of the masonry. The same method is used in the laying of pillars and is of great help in the work.

The best option for the output of combustion products is a rectangular masonry. It is this form that is convenient to use. In the device of the chimney, it is always important to observe the vertical direction and try to lay it out in such a way as to avoid slopes. If this is not possible, then the slope should be in the range of 60 degrees. It is in the slope that the greatest air resistance is achieved.

Ventilation

We note the fact that a plug is provided in the chimney, which radically affects the amount of natural air draft. It should be made in the forefront of the chimney.

Right next to the removal of the pipe to the roof, you will need another window, which is necessary for easy cleaning of the pipe from dirt: dust, plaque.
Removal to the roof

This stage will seem to many too complicated and cause a storm of fear. You shouldn't be so worried. Thanks to the presence of accurate instructions, the removal of the pipe is a fairly easy task, which will not be difficult to cope with.

To implement our plans, we need material that we will lay between the roof and masonry. In most cases, mineral wool is taken in the form of a slab for these purposes. Next, we make a rectangular hole in the roof. It should be wider than the pipe by a couple of centimeters.

Then we install mineral wool between the roof and the masonry. It serves as a good seal and is a mandatory fire safety rule, since the chimney can easily heat up from hot gas.

As mentioned above, the layout of the takeaway can be made from a different type of brick. The cost of this will not change significantly, but this fact will significantly affect the technical parameters for the better.
Firstly, condensation can be avoided by using frost-resistant bricks.

The issue can be successfully resolved if you install a transition from a pipe to a sandwich. No matter how, namely the sandwich will instantly eliminate all sorts of troubles associated with the formation of condensate.

But here it is already necessary to proceed from your own tastes and design preferences.

The next step is waterproofing all joints of the roof and chimney. For these purposes, you can apply mastic. Then we put the headband. A chimney for a brick pipe can be made by yourself or purchased at a specialized store.

Everything is ready! Our chimney can function!

The chimney is laid out in the same way as the stove. You can apply masonry in 4.5 or 6 bricks.

Pipe laying in the attic should be carried out according to the beacon. To do this, after laying out the first three rows in the attic, we release the plumb line from the roof plane to the corner of the masonry, absolutely any. Where there is a plumb line, we hammer in a nail. In the place where the plumb line was leveled or in the seam of the corner of the masonry, we hammer in a nail, and between them we tie a thread of silk. The masonry must be carried out along the control corner, always with a check using the square every three rows.

If a pipe is laid above the roof, then for greater assembly reliability, it is recommended to purchase clay-cement mortar instead of a cement-sand mortar. To do this, in the clay-sand mixture, which was used for laying the furnace, we include one liter of cement per ten liters of water. Mix the mixture thoroughly using a mixer.

The head of the pipe is more of a decoration, which means that it is not required to do it. If you nevertheless gave your choice in favor of building a head with your own hands, then in no case do not change the internal section. If it is changed, then a swirl of smoke in the channel is inevitable.

In order to protect the pipe from atmospheric precipitation, a cap made of galvanized iron must be installed in its upper region. The cap will help protect the channel from moisture.

Brick pipe part of the work cannot be done with one material, and the second part with another. This is a complex structure and therefore it is necessary to think over everything from the very beginning.

There is an instruction on the rules for its manufacture, you should not deviate, listen to the recommendations and then everything will be at the highest level.

A chimney is an indispensable element in the construction of stove heating. This design is needed to remove the products of combustion of wood, coal, gas and other materials burned in the furnace.

There are different types of chimneys, differing in pipe material and cross-sectional shape, but despite the emergence of new high-tech materials, the square (rarely rectangular) brick chimney remains the most popular.

There are 3 types of chimney designs. They differ in the way they exit the furnace, the number of connected heaters, and so on.

Each type has its pros and cons in the application, as well as some installation features.

Wall-mounted chimneys

Wall-mounted chimneys are the most common type of construction. In this case, the pipe is simply an extension of the stove, going up through the roof. The advantages of such a system:

Compact and rational use of space. In any case, the space above the stove would be empty (due to safety requirements), and the chimney is the only element allowed in this area.
Ease of installation. The construction of a brick chimney is very simple and does not require any skills (the skill of laying bricks has probably already been obtained during the construction of the furnace).

The disadvantage of a mounted chimney is that it is mounted for one particular appliance. If there are several stoves in the house, each will have to build its own chimney or use a different type of design.

Indigenous chimneys

In this case, the chimney is a common riser, to which several heaters can be connected using metal pipes, and the stoves can be located both in different rooms and on different floors.

Of the disadvantages - additional space is required not only for installing a chimney, but also for supply pipes. Also, quite complex cross-sectional calculations for each element of such a design in order to ensure normal traction.

Wall chimneys

The chimney got its name because it is always located near the main wall (internal or external). If the chimney is located against an external wall, then most of its structure is on the outside of the house and requires an additional foundation. When installed indoors, the chimney must run inside the wall.

The advantage of a wall chimney is that several appliances can be connected to it on different floors, but they must be strictly one above the other.

Also, the internal wall chimney is a kind of additional source of heat, since the hot pipe gives off heat in all directions, including rooms adjacent to the main wall. True, the efficiency of such heating is minimal and is simply an additional advantage of a wall chimney.

The main disadvantage is the high cost of materials and the need for additional space.

How a brick chimney works

A brick chimney consists of several sections, some of which are indoors, and some are outdoors.

The design features are such that when passing through the attic floor, the pipe walls should be as thick as possible in order to reduce the risk of fire in the truss system. At the same time, going beyond the roof, the structure of the chimney itself must cover the hole in the roof so that atmospheric precipitation does not penetrate into it.

In most cases, the chimney pipe is a continuation of the stove, i.e. on top of it, the required number of rows of bricks is completed to the attic floor.
The next element is fluff. In the fluff, the width of the pipe is 2-3 times its usual size while maintaining a constant internal section. The thick walls of the pipe are a kind of buffer that protects the flammable elements of the attic system from contact with the heat passing through the pipe. At this level, the air is still too hot due to the close proximity of the oven.
Next comes the riser - a piece of pipe from the attic floor to the top of the roof. It is a brick pipe in its usual section.
At the place where the pipe exits the roof, according to technology, there should be an “otter”, but it is often neglected. The element is similar to fluff, but is installed in such a way that a brick peak is formed above the roof, repeating the angle of the roof. An otter is needed in order to close the hole through which the pipe exits from precipitation. Usually, a special apron (metal or other material) is placed around the otter to provide better protection.
Further, the neck of the pipe rises above the roof - the external analogue of the riser.
The whole structure ends with a head, which is a small visor. It is rather a decorative traditional element of the pipe, since its protective functions are minimal. For this reason, the head is also often neglected.
A metal cap is installed on top of the head, which protects the chimney from rain and debris getting inside.

The traditional brick chimney for a gas boiler is quite in demand, despite the many shortcomings and low thermal performance. Despite the apparent simplicity of the design, during the construction of a brick channel, it is extremely important to adhere to the existing norms set forth in the SNiP. The safety of operation and the efficiency of gas equipment depend on compliance with the requirements.

Is a brick chimney allowed or not with a gas boiler

Existing regulations allow the use of brick chimneys for gas boilers. At the same time, the conditions that the smoke exhaust system must comply with are separately stipulated. If violations are found, the gas service inspector may refuse to put the heating equipment into operation.

The laying of the channel must be carried out by a qualified bricklayer. It is better to refuse to install a chimney for a brick gas boiler with your own hands, without special building skills. As practice shows, only an experienced stove-maker can take into account all the nuances associated with the calculation and subsequent installation of the structure.

Chimney requirements for a brick gas boiler

The main purpose of the chimney is the safe removal of combustion products from the boiler. The essence of all requirements is to prevent possible ignition, as well as carbon monoxide poisoning during the operation of heating appliances. In particular, the SNiP and PB indicate:

From time to time, new requirements for a brick chimney for a gas boiler appear. Even before starting construction, find out about the existing standards in the Gas Service. Up-to-date information will avoid unnecessary costs and facilitate the commissioning of the structure.

Mono-brick chimneys for gas boilers

There are several options for brick chimneys, among which the mono-design has the worst thermal performance. Under the constant influence of an aggressive environment, the brick collapses, the seams crack and lose their tightness. For this reason, after 5-6 years of operation, it will be necessary to repair the pipe and replace the damaged sections.

During construction, the following conditions are met:

The disadvantage of a brick smoke exhaust system is a short service life and high requirements for the quality of the masonry. It is difficult to properly lay out the chimney yourself, so it is better to use the services of a qualified bricklayer.

Combined brick smoke exhaust systems for gas boilers

Combined systems are distinguished by better thermal performance than a conventional brick chimney. The main feature of the design is the presence of a core made of steel, ceramics or asbestos cement. Thanks to the combined installation scheme, the disadvantages inherent in brick channels are almost completely leveled.

When choosing combined systems, it is necessary to pay attention to the technical parameters of the core, which ultimately determine the performance of the chimney.

Brick and stainless steel chimneys

The existing schemes for the construction and restoration of existing chimneys provide for the possibility of using three main modifications that differ in the material of the internal contour. The consumer is offered one of three options:

Before commissioning, it is mandatory to line the old brick chimneys for use with gas boiler equipment.

The combination of brick and ceramic pipes

This design is one of the best in its characteristics. The ceramic is resistant to acids and can withstand temperatures up to 1000°C. The ceramic pipe has good traction performance, quickly warms up and enters the operating mode.

A freestanding brick chimney with an internal ceramic pipe for connecting a gas boiler is used as an alternative.

Problems with a brick chimney with a ceramic core are extremely rare. The design is distinguished by a long service life and the resistance of the ceramic walls of the pipe to burnout. With proper installation, the chimney will last at least 50 years.

Chimney made of asbestos-cement pipe lined with brick

A chimney made of asbestos pipes, lined with bricks, cannot compete in its characteristics with stainless steel and ceramics. Asbestos-cement systems have gained popularity due to their low cost and availability of the material. Along with this, pipes have several significant drawbacks:

Abundant production of condensate- an asbestos-cement pipe, even inside a brick, cools quickly, which leads to a large amount of condensation. As a result, dampness of the chimney and destruction of the structure often occur.
Low aerodynamic performance– asbestos pipes cannot be used for condensing boilers and gas equipment with a closed combustion chamber.

In terms of its thermal and aerodynamic properties, as well as the ratio of cost and durability, the leading position is occupied by a brick chimney shaft with a stainless pipe inside.

How to make a brick chimney for a gas boiler

If the existing SNiP and GOST are not observed, the danger of a brick chimney with gas heating increases. Particular attention should be paid to the choice of building material, masonry mortar, thermal insulation.

It is important to prevent the rapid formation of condensate and provide for the possibility of regular maintenance of the smoke exhaust system.

What kind of brick is the chimney for a gas boiler made of?

To use the chimney from gas appliances, ceramic bricks are used, made from baked clay. The material retains heat well and is able to withstand temperature extremes. It is strictly forbidden to make a chimney from silicate brick.

Any ceramic brick is not suitable for a smoke exhaust system, but only a certain brand. Moreover, for the manufacture of the outer and inner parts, material with different markings is used.

Fire resistance - the material is assigned a class "A" or "B". The first is designed for heating up to 1400°C, the second 1350°C.
Strength - bricks of the M 250 or M 200 brand are needed for masonry. High density leads to an increase in heating time, therefore, it is not recommended to use building material marked M300 and higher.
Frost resistance- the chimney is made of solid ceramic bricks with a resistance factor of F300.

The wall thickness of the brick pipe should be 15 cm (half-brick masonry). When laying, the geometry and right angles of the structure are strictly observed.

The chimney can be made of facing bricks, but the material that can withstand frost does not tolerate heating / cooling. After several heating seasons, the surface begins to crack and crumble. When condensation occurs, the facing material loses its strength.

It is correct to make a brick chimney for a gas boiler in a private house, from solid brick, class "A" or "B", with strength M 250 and frost resistance F300.

What masonry mixture is used in the construction

The composition of the mixture for laying a brick chimney pipe is selected depending on which part of the structure is being built. As practice shows, the use of ready-made refractory and heat-resistant masonry mixtures is optimal. The resulting solution is acid-resistant and able to withstand negative atmospheric phenomena.

If there is no financial opportunity to purchase a ready-made adhesive composition, the mixture is made independently.

clay mortar- is heat-resistant, used for the construction of a structure located in the house. Clay is soaked by water, so the mixture is not suitable for the outer parts of the chimney.
cement composition– it is necessary to use cement mortar for parts of the chimney located outside the building. To increase the strength and give the solution acid-resistant characteristics, special additives are added to the finished mixture. The same solution is used in the manufacture of the foundation of the chimney.

A brick chimney is laid out on a clay or cement-sand mortar, depending on which part of the structure is being built. Ready mixtures are used for the entire smoke exhaust system, regardless of location, relative to gas equipment and the building.

The ready-made composition of the solutions includes all the necessary additives and plasticizers, which allows you to make a perfectly even seam without leaving voids. The only drawback is the high cost of masonry.

How to insulate a brick chimney

The need to insulate a brick pipe is primarily associated with the need to reduce the amount of condensate produced. The heating of the walls above the dew point is carried out faster, which leads to a decrease in the volume of moisture that falls out.

The technology for insulating an external brick chimney is as follows:

First you need to repair the brick pipe. Damaged areas are replaced. The influxes from the masonry mortar are removed, the pipe is primed.
To align the pipe, and remove the cracks and chips that have appeared, you will need to plaster the brick surface. Works are carried out on lighthouses. The solution is allowed to dry. It is forbidden to heat the chimney during this period.
Thermal insulation of a brick pipe is carried out - the thickness of the insulation is 5-10 cm for the outer cladding, it is attached to a special adhesive composition, after which the plates are fixed with anchors. A reinforcing mesh is pulled from above, embedding it in a layer of glue.
Finishing work in progress.

The material used to insulate brick gas chimneys can be any basalt thermal insulation. Stone wool does not ignite even when exposed directly to an open flame.

To insulate a brick pipe in an unheated attic, mineral wool is used. The material costs about half as much, and in the absence of precipitation, it performs heat-insulating functions well.

Rooftop chimney

Most often, the rules associated with the passage of roofing, installation and cladding of the roofing part are violated. The rules for the passage of a brick chimney through a wooden floor when heated by a gas boiler are as follows:

When passing through slabs or roofing, fire breaks are observed. SNiP 01/41/2003 states that from an uninsulated chimney to combustible structures there should be at least 38 cm. For insulated pipes, the gaps are reduced to 5 cm. The space is filled with basalt insulation.
For penetration, a special box is made, installed under the roofing.
The head of the chimney is insulated with basalt slabs, lined with ceramic tiles on top or lined with facade plaster.
The height of the pipe is calculated depending on the distance from the ridge. There is a general recommendation that the brickwork in a private house be higher than the top level of the roof. In some cases, in accordance with this instruction, it will be necessary to rebuild the existing brick chimney for the installation of a modern gas boiler.
The head of the pipe is covered with a deflector to increase the traction force.

The connection of a gas boiler to an existing brick chimney is carried out only if the pipe height is sufficient and after the system has been sleeved.

How to prevent condensation and how to remove moisture

The main factors in the formation of condensate are the following reasons:

Elimination of condensate moisture is carried out using a special condensate trap that hermetically closes the chimney channel.

Repair of a brick chimney pipe from a gas boiler

Reconstruction of an old chimney may be required in several cases:

Fault detected during regular masonry inspection.
Re-equipment of the smoke exhaust system, allowing the use of conventional brick oven chimneys for modern gas boilers.

Before carrying out repair work, the cause that led to the destruction of the brickwork is determined and eliminated.

Why does a brick collapse on a gas chimney?

The frequency of checking brick chimneys is at least once a year, before the onset of the heating season. Inspection shows the presence or absence of mortar falling out of the seams, brick cracking and other violations. The causes of destruction are:

Do I need to line a brick chimney and with what?

A chimney liner is required in the following cases:

To avoid the destruction of the structure of the brick smoke exhaust system in the future (average service life is 6 years), sleeves are carried out. A stainless steel pipe or corrugation is installed in the chimney.

Additional sealing of chimneys in brick walls for individual gas boilers is required only if channels intended for ventilation are used.

How to clean a brick pipe with gas heating

You can clean the pipes yourself, which, as practice shows, often leads to the destruction of the brickwork. Without a certain qualification, it is not recommended to clean the chimneys, since the internal walls of the channel are destroyed during the work.

Alternatively, you can call a specialist for cleaning. Work on average will cost from 600 to 3000 rubles. The time taken is from 3-6 hours, depending on the degree of pollution.

Advantages and disadvantages of connecting a gas boiler to a brick chimney

Brick chimney channels have certain pros and cons. The advantages include:

Low cost with the possibility of using an existing pipe.
Possibility of connecting a gas boiler with an open combustion chamber to a brick chimney.
Availability of building and finishing materials.

The disadvantages of the design are:

Short service life.
High requirements for the quality of masonry and the qualifications of the worker carrying out construction work.
The need for insulation.
Many restrictions - making a gas chimney in an external brick wall, using an old channel without a sleeve, connecting the system to condensing boilers and equipment with a closed combustion chamber, is prohibited.

Technical characteristics, in particular thrust indicators, aerodynamic properties, short service life, cast doubt on the feasibility of installing a gas boiler with a brick smoke exhaust system. To connect, select or .

The chimney is one of the most important components of the heating system in a private or country house. Even an inexperienced person will be able to cope with its installation, but in this matter it is necessary to know certain nuances, norms of SNiP, as well as possible errors.

Features of brick chimneys

In a private house with a heating boiler system, there is a chimney. It is designed to bring the combustion products of the fuel outside. Now there are many designs of the chimney. The necessary tools and materials for installation can be found in a hardware store. Although new types of chimneys have now appeared, brick structures are still in demand.

Advantages of brick chimneys:

Relatively low costs for laying a brick chimney.
Variety of materials for manufacturing.
Excellent performance, brick chimneys can withstand temperatures up to a thousand degrees Celsius.
aesthetic component. Brick chimneys are outwardly beautiful, they will become a separate element of home decoration. For their decoration, ceramic material is most often used.
Excellent thermal conductivity.

Varieties of brick chimneys

There are 2 types of brick pipes: root and mounted. They are used for different ovens.

The mounted type of construction is directly connected to the furnace, being its continuation. Root pipes are located near the boiler, autonomously. A special pipe is used to connect them to the furnace.

The root design is best suited to cast iron products in the heating system. In addition, several furnaces can be combined into one root chimney. In such a situation, it is necessary to correctly determine the diameter of the pipe, which will cope with the load on the removal of combustion products.

Recommendation: sometimes when installing a root structure and connecting it with a special pipe to the furnace, installation of a metal pipe inside the chimney is required. A brick chimney must be built in accordance with all building codes.

The extension pipe comes directly from the boiler and goes through the roof. It is suitable for connection to only one oven.

Brick chimney design

Both types of chimney have a similar structure. The only difference is that the fundamental design of the method includes several furnaces. In this case, you will need several risers and sections. And it all depends on how many floors the building has.

Elements included in the design of the chimney:

Pipe cutting (it is also called fluff). It is intended to protect combustible floors. The cutting has the largest wall thickness in the entire structure, is in the range of 35-40 cm. The exact value depends on the specific situation. The result is an insulation of approximately 25 cm.
Furnace neck. This element of the chimney is located in the area from the furnace to cutting. The neck of the furnace includes a smoke damper designed to regulate the draft.
Pipe stand. It is made of brick, inside it there is a channel for the output of combustion products. The riser is placed in the attic floor, as well as before cutting.
Otter. This element of the chimney is designed to waterproof the passage of the pipe in the roof. The otter is installed above the roof.
Cap. It is installed over the cap in the pipe head (more details: ""). This element protects the chimney channel from atmospheric precipitation. In addition, proper placement of the hood increases the efficiency of the entire system.

Requirements for a brick chimney

SNiP is a special document regulating building codes in the construction of facilities. It also includes heating systems in private homes. These norms should be taken into account when laying a brick pipe with your own hands.

The main points of SNiP regarding brick chimneys:

In the chimney, differences in the inner diameter are not allowed, the walls must be even.
The thickness of the chimney must be determined based on fire safety requirements. Most often, the optimal indicator is 10 cm.
The materials used for laying a brick pipe must withstand high temperatures without problems.
Between the pipe and the wall, it is necessary to maintain a distance of 38 cm.
In no case should we forget about the installation of extensions, they are installed at the place where the pipe passes through the floors.
The removal of combustion products in a vertical position is allowed. But in some situations it is impossible to build a chimney without horizontal sections. In this case, their length should not exceed 1 m.
For flat roofs, it is necessary to make an outer section of the chimney of 1 meter.
For a pitched roof, a pipe is mounted at a distance of one and a half meters from the ridge, while it should rise above it by at least 50 cm.
If the pipe is located at a distance of 3 meters from the ridge of the pitched roof, then they will be flush in height.
In situations where the distance from the roof ridge to the chimney is more than 3 meters, special calculations of the height of the external section are required. It is necessary to conditionally build a line at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon of the ridge. The intersection will determine the height of the pipe.
For gas-fired boiler systems, it is necessary to mount the pipe in such a way that it rises above the roof at least 5 meters.

Proper placement of the chimney is extremely important, as it affects the efficiency of the entire system. Chimney height instructions must be strictly followed. The length of the pipe is calculated in different ways, depending on a number of indicators. In each individual case, its outer section may vary in height.

Special requirements are put forward for industrial brick chimneys. The length of the pipe must be 25 meters more than the height of any building within a certain radius.

Brick for chimney masonry

For self-installation of a brick chimney, you must first calculate the amount of materials. You need to know in advance how much brick and cement mortar will be needed. Particular attention should also be paid to the choice of material, because the reliability of laying the chimney above the roof, as well as the rest of the structure, directly depends on its quality. And here are some helpful tips.

It should be understood that for the material used in the laying of such a structure, the requirement of fire resistance is put forward. The shape of the brick needs to be even, so that there are no cracks and other defects. Experts recommend purchasing material with a brand of 200 and above. The optimal brick size for the construction of a chimney is 25x12x6.5 cm.

Bricks are fastened together with a special mortar mixed with cement, sand and water in certain proportions. Its quality can be identified by the grain size of the sand. From fine-grained fractions, an ideal solution for laying a chimney is obtained. Sometimes clay is included in its composition. It is necessary to take pure material, without any impurities.

The opening of the pipe passage in the roof must be waterproofed. This avoids the flow of liquid through the pipe into the building. To implement this task, an otter is most often used - a thickening on the outside of the masonry. But it can be replaced with a metal part - an "apron".

Do-it-yourself dismantling of a brick pipe

Brick chimneys that have served their purpose not only poorly provide the output of combustion products, but also pose a threat to human life. After all, at any moment the old structure can fall apart. Such chimneys must be demolished and replaced with new ones.

When the outer section of the chimney is demolished, you can proceed to the analysis of a part of the pipe in the attic of the house. To avoid a possible collapse of the plaster from the ceiling, it is necessary to place special strobes on the pipe.

A hammer, sledgehammer or similar tools will do the job perfectly. With their help, it will be possible to demolish the chimney in a private house relatively quickly.

Stages of installation of a brick chimney:

The first step is the installation of a packed pipe. The ligation method is used for laying the chimney. But first you need to fix the pipe itself to the solution to the furnace. The essence of this method is that in each row there is a half-brick step. This approach allows you to achieve a better grip. Laying is carried out until 5-6 free rows remain between the ceiling and the structure.
Now the laying of fluff is already underway. Here, without fail, an expansion of the outer perimeter will be required. Suitable dimensions for the outer widening are 59x45 cm. In such a situation, you need to make an inner widening of 14x27 cm. The extension is quite simple to implement. It is enough to move the bricks at the edges of the rows. The approximate size of the shift is 4 centimeters.
During the third stage, the otter is mounted. It is necessary to approach this task with the utmost care in order to avoid possible errors. For stacked rows, during the installation of the otter, it is necessary to create an indent outwards by a third. In this case, the first row on top of the extension must match the previous one.
It is necessary to organize a riser for the pipe end-to-end in the roof. Its masonry is carried out in the attic of the house. The riser is carried through the roof, it should rise above it by 50-80 centimeters.
The final stage includes the installation of the neck of the chimney. When it is completed, a head with a cap must be put on the end of the neck. It will protect the structure from atmospheric precipitation.

If you follow all the rules and take into account the advice of specialists, then the laying of the chimney will be completed without complications. This design will last a long time.

It has already been mentioned above that the fluff wall is mounted under the perimeter extension. This design must be additionally thermally insulated to ensure its reliability and durability. It is necessary to isolate the entire section of the pipe that passes through the roof.

Most often, heat-insulating material for these purposes is made of asbestos. But there are still alternative options. Insulation can be made from a metal box worn around the perimeter of the pipe. The free space between it and the pipe is usually filled with sand or expanded clay. Clay-impregnated felt can also be used as thermal insulation. Mineral wool is also suitable for these purposes. High-quality insulation is achieved if its layer thickness is from 10 cm.

Common mistakes during installation

In the text described above, important tips were written, following which will help in installing a brick chimney with your own hands. But since this is a rather complicated process, some difficulties may be encountered during its execution.

Common installation errors:

The most common problem is that the pipe is not tall enough. In such a chimney there will be no proper draft, which will negatively affect its efficiency. Particular attention should be paid to calculating the size of the chimney. This approach will avoid this problem.
Non-compliance of the chimney with SNiP standards. These standards were created so that the objects built according to them were as reliable as possible.
Another common mistake is the use of poor quality or incorrectly mixed cement mortar. Brickwork with it will not be able to hold securely, over time it will completely collapse. The cement mortar must be kneaded in such a way as to achieve a uniform consistency.

Important advice: it is necessary to lay the cement mortar evenly during the laying process.

It is necessary to perform the dressing of bricks very carefully during laying. When building a chimney, half bricks, quarters, and so on can be used. To separate them, it is best to use a grinder.
Do not lay bricks on too thick cement mortar. Otherwise, it will negatively affect the life of the structure. The optimal thickness is 4-5 millimeters.
Among other things, it is worth remembering about the regular maintenance of the chimney. Basically it concerns his cleaning. Soot and other products of combustion settle on the walls of the pipes. The structures with irregularities inside are most polluted. Regular cleaning will help maintain the performance of the chimney, otherwise they will begin to deteriorate.

A brick chimney requires more effort than using a metal pipe for this purpose. But this design looks much more prestigious and lasts longer. We will look at three types of brick chimneys: classic single, extended with vents and simplified. Each species has its own characteristics and advantages. The final decision is chosen by the developers, while taking into account the individual characteristics of the bath, design preferences, financial capabilities and professional skills.

For all types of brick chimneys, there are several general provisions that must be followed.

Height above roofing. It is regulated taking into account the angle of inclination of the slopes, should ensure fire safety and exclude draft from blowing air turbulence from the ridge. If the roof covering is made of non-combustible materials, then the fire height requirements can be ignored, but the chimney should be warned against swirling. The recommended heights can be seen in the photo.

Manufacturing material. For most chimneys, ordinary red brick can be used. If you want, buy a refractory one, but it costs much more, and you should not expect a big positive effect from its use.

We recommend using refractory bricks only for laying the overhead pipe, in this place the highest gas temperature. The fact is that red brick can easily withstand temperatures up to + 800 ° C, and the temperature of the gases in the chimney is much lower. It is strictly forbidden to use silicate brick - during heating, it releases toxic chemical compounds into the air. Such a brick can only be used for exterior wall decoration.

An important requirement for all bricks is that the side surfaces must be smooth. The presence of irregularities and roughness increases the deposition of soot in the smoke channel, it will have to be cleaned much more often. A large amount of soot not only impairs traction, but can also cause ignition, and this is a direct risk of fire. During the insertion of the chimney, the internal channel must be immediately cleaned of the solution protruding in the seams. Use a damp cloth or sponge for this, achieve maximum smoothness of the inner surfaces of the channel.

Prices for refractory bricks

refractory brick

Masonry mortar. There are two options. Some stove-makers use only clay mortar, while others add a little cement to it. We are supporters of the second option, cement significantly increases the strength of the structure. But you choose, both types of solutions do a good job with their tasks.

Classic chimney

Consider the structural elements of a classic chimney.

Bottom part

From the top of the stove to Receives very hot gases, fireclay bricks can be used for the channel. It is better to buy a gate ready in the store, there is no way - do it yourself. Shop structures are more reliable, they are made of ductile iron and do not deform during heating. Steel gates can be deformed as a result of steel tempering. The deformed gate wedges in the grooves, opening / closing is difficult. For laying the lower part of the chimney, it is recommended to use a clay mortar without the addition of cement.

Gate prices

It performs two tasks: it increases the resistance of the chimney to wind loads - it rests on the floor beams. In addition, the increased dimensions of the fluff serve as fire protection for wooden structures.

Riser

Part of the chimney from the fluff to the otter. The longest section, during masonry, the vertical position of all rows must be observed.

Special thickening above the roof covering. Traditional chimneys are made without the use of modern methods of sealing the exit above the roof, the increased size of the otter excludes the ingress of natural precipitation into the attic of the bath. To improve insulation around the perimeter of the otter, sheets of galvanized steel can be nailed.

Neck and headband

The length of the neck depends on the angle of inclination and the type of roof, specific dimensions take into account all the features of the structure. The height of the neck affects the stability of thrust, regardless of the strength of the wind.

- a decorative element of the chimney.

protective cap

Prevents rain and snow from entering the flue. The cap has another function. If no one uses the bath stove for a long time, then the birds can make a nest in the channel - the chimney will have to be cleaned. To prevent such situations, it is recommended to close the outlet with a metal mesh.

We can only give approximate dimensions of each element of the chimney, more accurate parameters must be calculated taking into account the architectural features of the stove and bath.

Stages of building a classic chimney

The presence of a brick chimney should be provided even during the design of the bath. The stove must be brick and always on a separate concrete foundation.

For most sauna stoves, a channel of 250 × 120 mm is sufficient, these are the standard dimensions of red brick. For laying the chimney, you will need special bricks half the standard, they can be bought ready-made or cut off with a grinder with a diamond disc.

The thickness of the solution is not more than 1 cm, the thicker the solution, the greater the risk of cracking during thermal expansion. We do not recommend making such a complex chimney for a metal furnace; it is enough to install a pipe for it.

Step 1. Prepare bricks, tools and mortar. Measure down to the gate and fluff.

Step 2 Start laying from the bottom of the chimney from the stove, check each row with a level in all four planes. After three or four rows, clean the channel from excess solution.

Practical advice. The laying of the chimney can be significantly accelerated. After 2-3 rows of bricks are laid, fasten the ropes in them at the corners and pull them to the ceiling. Install the ropes strictly vertically, they control the position of the chimney. No more wasting time checking each row by level.

Step 3 Fasten the frame at the installation site of the gate. The installation of the frame should not disturb the position of the upper plane of the bricks, for this you need to select a recess in them according to the size of the gate frame.

Step 4 Continue laying until the beginning of the fluffing device. Calculate the number of rows that will have to be laid before the fluff reaches the desired size. At the same time, keep in mind that in one row the perimeter of the chimney increases by a quarter of the width of the brick. The fluff should fit snugly against the ceiling beams. If they are at a great distance from the chimney, it is necessary to make special resistant frame structures.

Step 5 Lay out the fluff according to the diagram. Keep in mind that this is only a schematic diagram, the specific number of rows of bricks to reach the maximum fluff width depends on the design of the bath. It is not necessary to make a square profile fluff, you can lay out a rectangular one.

In the photo - fluff

Important. There should be no gaps between the ceiling beams and fluff, otherwise the chimney will stagger under the influence of sudden gusts of wind. Fluctuations will violate the tightness of the junction of the pipe to the roofing, and this will certainly cause leaks. What is a constantly wet truss system or attic, no need to explain. Do not lay any mineral wool for thermal insulation, the thickness of the fluff completely excludes spontaneous combustion of wooden elements.

Step 6 Gradually, for the same number of rows, go from fluff to the size of the chimney, pull it up to the roof.

Step 7 At the lower level of the roof, start laying the otter. This element of the chimney is more complicated than fluffing, the increase in the width of the chimney should occur gradually, taking into account the slope of the slopes. We strongly recommend to increase the stability of the structure during masonry by immuring metal plates into the otter and attaching them to the rafter system.

The ends of the bricks need to be trimmed, this will reduce the gap between the roofing and the otter. If you don’t want to cut it, we advise you to install metal sheets between the bottom of the otter and the roofing to prevent atmospheric precipitation from entering the rafter system and the attic.

Practical advice. For those who are building a brick chimney for the first time, we strongly advise you to lay bricks on the ground without mortar before laying them according to the scheme. This will allow you to better understand the masonry technology and avoid annoying mistakes.

Important. If the chimney plaster is not planned, then the visible part of the masonry must be done under the internal or external jointing. The bricks are even and beautiful - embroider the seams, the appearance of the materials is unsatisfactory - you will have to plaster. We will talk about the technology of plastering a little below.

Step 8 Header masonry. A purely decorative element, increase the outer perimeter of the chimney by a quarter of a brick. The head is one row and immediately after it is the finish line. In the finish row, we recommend immuring a metal mesh from birds. Fasten the protective cap on top of the chimney with dowels.

Give two or three days to dry, and then start the first heating of the furnace. Do not be alarmed if, at the beginning of the heating, there is little or no draft at all, over time everything will fall into place.

How to plaster the top of a brick chimney

There are two options:

buy special metal corners in the store;
make your own universal fixture.

We believe that making a universal fixture is much more profitable.

First, it's much cheaper.
Secondly, it can be used when plastering door and window openings, external corners of walls, etc. e. This means that such devices will always come in handy at a construction site.
Thirdly, you can independently adjust the thickness of the plaster layer depending on the condition of the surfaces.

The device is made from pieces of wire rod or building reinforcement Ø 6 ÷ 8 mm. The length of the reinforcement depends on the width of the chimney or walls. The bar must be bent with the letter V, the center of the bend is located in the middle. The ends are again bent at an angle of approximately 90°. How to use the device?

Step 1. Pick up even wooden slats, the length of the slats should be equal to the length of the surface. It may be shorter, but then you have to plaster in two steps.

Step 2. Install the rails at the corners of the chimney (or opening) and fix them with two manufactured clamps. Clamps should securely hold the rails in position.

Step 3. Depending on the condition of the surface of the chimney, select the thickness of the plaster layer. Try not to exceed 1.5 cm, if there are large protrusions, then remove them.

Step 4 Using a level, set the rails in a vertical position. There should be two rails on one side of the chimney. Repeat the same operations on the opposite wall.

Step 5 Start plastering the surfaces, remove the excess mass as a rule and align it with the installed rails. Repeat the steps on the opposite side of the chimney.

The next day, carefully remove the clips and slats. Now the even corners of the plaster will serve as guides for the rule during the plastering of the two remaining planes of the chimney. Simple, fast, cheap and beautiful. Do not throw away the clamps, they can be used to process all external corners in buildings.

Simplified chimney masonry

We hope that you have carefully read our tips and already have an idea about laying a traditional chimney. In this case, the simplified version will not create big problems. Let us dwell on its differences and technological features.

Video - Simplified chimney

The chimney has no fluff and otter. Fluff serves as an element of fixation, since it is not there, you need to fasten the structure in a different way. We recommend making a frame around the perimeter of the chimney from a corner, using threaded connections to attach the frame to the chimney at ceiling level. Next, it must be fixed to the ceiling beams. You can fix it with metal plates or building reinforcement, it doesn’t matter. The main thing is that the chimney does not stagger.

The otter was needed to seal the exit of the chimney above the roofing. It does not murmur - do the sealing yourself. Use metal sheets for this, the specific sealing technology depends on the type of roof. We will indicate only the main general points.

Protective aprons must be bent and inserted into the groove cut on the planes of the chimney.
To completely exclude the ingress of moisture, it is highly desirable to treat all contact points with any sealant.
There is a possibility - during the arrangement of the roofing, purchase factory sealing systems for the chimney exit.

If the brick used for laying the chimney has already been in use, then the internal channel must also be plastered. Special angles and straightness should not be observed, the main thing is that the surfaces are as smooth as possible.

The presence of effective ventilation in the steam room and shower is one of the important conditions for the comfort of taking water procedures. In addition, it helps to quickly dry the premises and increase the life of all wooden structures.

Putting a brick chimney just for the sake of smoke from the stove is not practical. In this case, you will have to make ventilation products in the walls. We strongly recommend that you immediately make ventilation ducts in the chimney. If the stove and chimney are placed correctly, then it becomes possible to equip ventilation not only in the steam room, but also in the shower room. For other rooms of the bath, ventilation can not be done at all.

In the channels, it is allowed to install electric fans () or decorative grilles with adjustable blinds or dampers.

How is the work on laying ventilation ducts carried out?

Step 1. On the ground of bricks, make a preliminary layout of the chimney, provide in it one channel for smoke and two for ventilation. In order to save money, lay the pipes from the stove with aerated concrete blocks, they are much cheaper, use brick only for the smoke channel. The entire chimney made of bricks should be laid only from the opening of the ventilation ducts (under the ceiling of the steam room and shower room). After opening the channels, the chimney is made only of ceramic bricks.

Prices for aerated concrete blocks

aerated concrete block

Step 2 Lay the bricks with a dressing, it is enough to make the dimensions of the ventilation holes along the perimeter ≈ 12 cm, which is one width and two thicknesses of a standard red solid brick.

Step 3 If, for technological reasons, the ventilation duct has to be made in the corner of the chimney, then cut the bricks with a grinder to give them the desired geometric shape. Close the seams carefully, do not leave gaps. Violation of the tightness of the seams significantly reduces the efficiency of ventilation of the premises.

Step 4 The recommended wall thickness between the half-brick ducts, but you can change it depending on the required distance between the ventilation and smoke ducts. Tie each new row with the old minimum of half a brick. Keep in mind that the dimensions of the chimney with ventilation ducts increase, wind sail loads increase, therefore, its stability must be increased.

Step 5 According to the same algorithm, continue laying along the entire length of the chimney. To speed up work between extreme corners, pull the rope and control the position of the bricks along it. It does not hurt to check the verticality of the structure from time to time. The head is made in the usual way - with a third of the brick overhanging through the row.

Video - Laying a chimney with ventilation ducts

Otter and fluff in such chimneys should not be done, attach the chimney to beams and rafters using metal corners and plates.

How to calculate the diameter of the chimney channel

You can find statements that the height of the chimney cannot be less than five meters. This is not so, ignore such statements. Just imagine a bath about two meters high, above which a three-meter-high chimney sticks out.

Precise calculations are quite complicated, you need to know a lot of formulas and take into account a large number of factors: the temperature of the gases at the inlet to the chimney, the speed of the air flow, the height, the burning rate and the type of fuel, the wind rose, etc. You should not engage in such complex calculations, we advise use the Swedish method. It takes into account the main indicators, based on them, calculations are made and a schedule is drawn up. As initial data, you only need to know the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace (F), the chimney (f) and its height (H). Having two parameters, you can always find out the unknown third.

For example, you know the dimensions of the firebox and chimney, you need to know its height depending on the profile configuration. Find the percentage of these parameters and use the graph to find out the minimum height. Or vice versa, the height of the chimney and the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace are known, but you need to find out the size of the chimney channel. Again, using the simplest arithmetic operations on the graph, you will find out the dimensions of the channel, taking into account the configuration of the section.

Otter and fluff masonry can be simplified by using metal plates or rods. With their help, connect the rows together, just do not allow the bars to fall into the working channels.

You can find advice not to plaster low-quality bricks, but to cover them with special ceramic tiles. We do not recommend doing this for several reasons.

Ceramic tiles for the stove - an example

Firstly, there is a high probability that the tile will fall off, constant cyclic changes in the linear dimensions of the chimney have an extremely negative effect on the adhesion of the tile.
Secondly, before facing uneven surfaces, in any case, they will have to be trimmed. Why then do double work for triple the money?

Important. The duration of operation of a brick chimney largely depends on the modes of furnace furnace. Red brick is very afraid of high humidity. Especially in the winter, when the water freezes and breaks its integrity at a double speed. What to do so that the brick in the chimney is not wet? Everything is very simple - the temperature of the gases at the outlet of the chimney must be at least + 110 ° C, such conditions will exclude the appearance of condensate on the walls of the channel.

But here there are problems. To achieve such a smoke outlet temperature, it is necessary to heat the stove strongly, and this is not always possible and advisable. In addition, most modern factory furnaces have a fairly high efficiency, the heat of combustion of the fuel is given off in the combustion chamber, and relatively cold gases enter the chimney. So condensation is inevitable. By the way, condensate not only negatively affects the strength of the brick. A lot of soot sticks to the wet walls of the channel, the chimney will have to be cleaned in almost a year.