We build our own brick chimney. Do-it-yourself brick chimney Laying a brick chimney

The chimney is one of the most important components of the heating system in a private or country house. Even an inexperienced person will be able to cope with its installation, but in this matter it is necessary to know certain nuances, norms of SNiP, as well as possible errors.

Features of brick chimneys

In a private house with a heating boiler system, there is a chimney. It is designed to bring the combustion products of the fuel outside. Now there are many designs of the chimney. The necessary tools and materials for installation can be found in a hardware store. Although new types of chimneys have now appeared, brick structures are still in demand.

Advantages of brick chimneys:

• Relatively low costs for laying a brick chimney.
• Variety of materials for manufacturing.
• Excellent performance, brick chimneys can withstand temperatures up to a thousand degrees Celsius.
• aesthetic component. Brick chimneys are outwardly beautiful, they will become a separate element of home decoration. For their decoration, ceramic material is most often used.
• Excellent thermal conductivity.

Varieties of brick chimneys

There are 2 types of brick pipes: root and mounted. They are used for different ovens.

The mounted type of construction is directly connected to the furnace, being its continuation. Root pipes are located near the boiler, autonomously. A special pipe is used to connect them to the furnace.

The root design is best suited to cast iron products in the heating system. In addition, several furnaces can be combined into one root chimney. In such a situation, it is necessary to correctly determine the diameter of the pipe, which will cope with the load on the removal of combustion products.

Recommendation: sometimes when installing a root structure and connecting it with a special pipe to the furnace, installation of a metal pipe inside the chimney is required. A brick chimney must be built in accordance with all building codes.

The extension pipe comes directly from the boiler and goes through the roof. It is suitable for connection to only one oven.

Brick chimney design

Both types of chimney have a similar structure. The only difference is that the fundamental design of the method includes several furnaces. In this case, you will need several risers and sections. And it all depends on how many floors the building has.

Elements included in the design of the chimney:

1. Pipe cutting (it is also called fluff). It is intended to protect combustible floors. The cutting has the largest wall thickness in the entire structure, is in the range of 35-40 cm. The exact value depends on the specific situation. The result is an insulation of approximately 25 cm.
2. Furnace neck. This element of the chimney is located in the area from the furnace to cutting. The neck of the furnace includes a smoke damper designed to regulate the draft.
3. Pipe stand. It is made of brick, inside it there is a channel for the output of combustion products. The riser is placed in the attic floor, as well as before cutting.
4. Otter. This element of the chimney is designed to waterproof the passage of the pipe in the roof. The otter is installed above the roof.
5. Cap. It is installed over the cap in the pipe head (more details: ""). This element protects the chimney channel from atmospheric precipitation. In addition, proper placement of the hood increases the efficiency of the entire system.

Requirements for a brick chimney

SNiP is a special document regulating building codes in the construction of facilities. It also includes heating systems in private homes. These norms should be taken into account when laying a brick pipe with your own hands.

The main points of SNiP regarding brick chimneys:

1. In the chimney, differences in the inner diameter are not allowed, the walls must be even.
2. The thickness of the chimney must be determined based on fire safety requirements. Most often, the optimal indicator is 10 cm.
3. The materials used for laying a brick pipe must withstand high temperatures without problems.
4. Between the pipe and the wall, it is necessary to maintain a distance of 38 cm.
5. In no case should we forget about the installation of extensions, they are installed at the place where the pipe passes through the floors.
6. The removal of combustion products in a vertical position is allowed. But in some situations it is impossible to build a chimney without horizontal sections. In this case, their length should not exceed 1 m.
7. For flat roofs, it is necessary to make an outer section of the chimney of 1 meter.
8. For a pitched roof, a pipe is mounted at a distance of one and a half meters from the ridge, while it should rise above it by at least 50 cm.
9. If the pipe is located at a distance of 3 meters from the ridge of the pitched roof, then they will be flush in height.
10. In situations where the distance from the roof ridge to the chimney is more than 3 meters, special calculations of the height of the external section are required. It is necessary to conditionally build a line at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon of the ridge. The intersection will determine the height of the pipe.
11. For gas-fired boiler systems, it is necessary to mount the pipe in such a way that it rises above the roof at least 5 meters.

Proper placement of the chimney is extremely important, as it affects the efficiency of the entire system. Chimney height instructions must be strictly followed. The length of the pipe is calculated in different ways, depending on a number of indicators. In each individual case, its outer section may vary in height.

Special requirements are put forward for industrial brick chimneys. The length of the pipe must be 25 meters more than the height of any building within a certain radius.

Brick for chimney masonry

For self-installation of a brick chimney, you must first calculate the amount of materials. You need to know in advance how much brick and cement mortar will be needed. Particular attention should also be paid to the choice of material, because the reliability of laying the chimney above the roof, as well as the rest of the structure, directly depends on its quality. And here are some helpful tips.

It should be understood that for the material used in the laying of such a structure, the requirement of fire resistance is put forward. The shape of the brick needs to be even, so that there are no cracks and other defects. Experts recommend purchasing material with a brand of 200 and above. The optimal brick size for the construction of a chimney is 25x12x6.5 cm.

Bricks are fastened together with a special mortar mixed with cement, sand and water in certain proportions. Its quality can be identified by the grain size of the sand. From fine-grained fractions, an ideal solution for laying a chimney is obtained. Sometimes clay is included in its composition. It is necessary to take pure material, without any impurities.

The opening of the pipe passage in the roof must be waterproofed. This avoids the flow of liquid through the pipe into the building. To implement this task, an otter is most often used - a thickening on the outside of the masonry. But it can be replaced with a metal part - an "apron".

Do-it-yourself dismantling of a brick pipe

Brick chimneys that have served their purpose not only poorly provide the output of combustion products, but also pose a threat to human life. After all, at any moment the old structure can fall apart. Such chimneys must be demolished and replaced with new ones.

When the outer section of the chimney is demolished, you can proceed to the analysis of a part of the pipe in the attic of the house. To avoid a possible collapse of the plaster from the ceiling, it is necessary to place special strobes on the pipe.

A hammer, sledgehammer or similar tools will do the job perfectly. With their help, it will be possible to demolish the chimney in a private house relatively quickly.

Stages of installation of a brick chimney:

1. The first step is the installation of a packed pipe. The ligation method is used for laying the chimney. But first you need to fix the pipe itself to the solution to the furnace. The essence of this method is that in each row there is a half-brick step. This approach allows you to achieve a better grip. Laying is carried out until 5-6 free rows remain between the ceiling and the structure.
2. Now the laying of fluff is already underway. Here, without fail, an expansion of the outer perimeter will be required. Suitable dimensions for the outer widening are 59x45 cm. In such a situation, you need to make an inner widening of 14x27 cm. The extension is quite simple to implement. It is enough to move the bricks at the edges of the rows. The approximate size of the shift is 4 centimeters.
3. During the third stage, the otter is mounted. It is necessary to approach this task with the utmost care in order to avoid possible errors. For stacked rows, during the installation of the otter, it is necessary to create an indent outwards by a third. In this case, the first row on top of the extension must match the previous one.
4. It is necessary to organize a riser for the pipe end-to-end in the roof. Its masonry is carried out in the attic of the house. The riser is carried through the roof, it should rise above it by 50-80 centimeters.
5. The final stage includes the installation of the neck of the chimney. When it is completed, a head with a cap must be put on the end of the neck. It will protect the structure from atmospheric precipitation.

If you follow all the rules and take into account the advice of specialists, then the laying of the chimney will be completed without complications. This design will last a long time.

It has already been mentioned above that the fluff wall is mounted under the perimeter extension. This design must be additionally thermally insulated to ensure its reliability and durability. It is necessary to isolate the entire section of the pipe that passes through the roof.

Most often, heat-insulating material for these purposes is made of asbestos. But there are still alternative options. Insulation can be made from a metal box worn around the perimeter of the pipe. The free space between it and the pipe is usually filled with sand or expanded clay. Clay-impregnated felt can also be used as thermal insulation. Mineral wool is also suitable for these purposes. High-quality insulation is achieved if its layer thickness is from 10 cm.

Common mistakes during installation

In the text described above, important tips were written, following which will help in installing a brick chimney with your own hands. But since this is a rather complicated process, some difficulties may be encountered during its execution.

Common installation errors:

• The most common problem is that the pipe is not tall enough. In such a chimney there will be no proper draft, which will negatively affect its efficiency. Particular attention should be paid to calculating the size of the chimney. This approach will avoid this problem.
• Non-compliance of the chimney with SNiP standards. These standards were created so that the objects built according to them were as reliable as possible.
• Another common mistake is the use of poor quality or incorrectly mixed cement mortar. Brickwork with it will not be able to hold securely, over time it will completely collapse. The cement mortar must be kneaded in such a way as to achieve a uniform consistency.

Important advice: it is necessary to lay the cement mortar evenly during the laying process.

• It is necessary to perform the dressing of bricks very carefully during laying. When building a chimney, half bricks, quarters, and so on can be used. To separate them, it is best to use a grinder.
• Do not lay bricks on too thick cement mortar. Otherwise, it will negatively affect the life of the structure. The optimal thickness is 4-5 millimeters.
• Among other things, it is worth remembering about the regular maintenance of the chimney. Basically it concerns his cleaning. Soot and other products of combustion settle on the walls of the pipes. The structures with irregularities inside are most polluted. Regular cleaning will help maintain the performance of the chimney, otherwise they will begin to deteriorate.

A brick chimney requires more effort than using a metal pipe for this purpose. But this design looks much more prestigious and lasts longer. We will look at three types of brick chimneys: classic single, extended with vents and simplified. Each species has its own characteristics and advantages. The final decision is chosen by the developers, while taking into account the individual characteristics of the bath, design preferences, financial capabilities and professional skills.

For all types of brick chimneys, there are several general provisions that must be followed.

Height above roofing. It is regulated taking into account the angle of inclination of the slopes, should ensure fire safety and exclude draft from blowing air turbulence from the ridge. If the roof covering is made of non-combustible materials, then the fire height requirements can be ignored, but the chimney should be warned against swirling. The recommended heights can be seen in the photo.

Manufacturing material. For most chimneys, ordinary red brick can be used. If you want, buy a refractory one, but it costs much more, and you should not expect a big positive effect from its use.

We recommend using refractory bricks only for laying the overhead pipe, in this place the highest gas temperature. The fact is that red brick can easily withstand temperatures up to + 800 ° C, and the temperature of the gases in the chimney is much lower. It is strictly forbidden to use silicate brick - during heating, it releases toxic chemical compounds into the air. Such a brick can only be used for exterior wall decoration.

An important requirement for all bricks is that the side surfaces must be smooth. The presence of irregularities and roughness increases the deposition of soot in the smoke channel, it will have to be cleaned much more often. A large amount of soot not only impairs traction, but can also cause ignition, and this is a direct risk of fire. During the insertion of the chimney, the internal channel must be immediately cleaned of the solution protruding in the seams. Use a damp cloth or sponge for this, achieve maximum smoothness of the inner surfaces of the channel.

Prices for refractory bricks

refractory brick

Masonry mortar. There are two options. Some stove-makers use only clay mortar, while others add a little cement to it. We are supporters of the second option, cement significantly increases the strength of the structure. But you choose, both types of solutions do a good job with their tasks.

Classic chimney

Consider the structural elements of a classic chimney.

Bottom part

From the top of the stove to Receives very hot gases, fireclay bricks can be used for the channel. It is better to buy a gate ready in the store, there is no way - do it yourself. Shop structures are more reliable, they are made of ductile iron and do not deform during heating. Steel gates can be deformed as a result of steel tempering. The deformed gate wedges in the grooves, opening / closing is difficult. For laying the lower part of the chimney, it is recommended to use a clay mortar without the addition of cement.

Gate prices

It performs two tasks: it increases the resistance of the chimney to wind loads - it rests on the floor beams. In addition, the increased dimensions of the fluff serve as fire protection for wooden structures.

Riser

Part of the chimney from the fluff to the otter. The longest section, during masonry, the vertical position of all rows must be observed.

Special thickening above the roof covering. Traditional chimneys are made without the use of modern methods of sealing the exit above the roof, the increased size of the otter excludes the ingress of natural precipitation into the attic of the bath. To improve insulation around the perimeter of the otter, sheets of galvanized steel can be nailed.

Neck and headband

The length of the neck depends on the angle of inclination and the type of roof, specific dimensions take into account all the features of the structure. The height of the neck affects the stability of thrust, regardless of the strength of the wind.

- a decorative element of the chimney.

protective cap

Prevents rain and snow from entering the flue. The cap has another function. If no one uses the bath stove for a long time, then the birds can make a nest in the channel - the chimney will have to be cleaned. To prevent such situations, it is recommended to close the outlet with a metal mesh.

We can only give approximate dimensions of each element of the chimney, more accurate parameters must be calculated taking into account the architectural features of the stove and bath.

Stages of building a classic chimney

The presence of a brick chimney should be provided even during the design of the bath. The stove must be brick and always on a separate concrete foundation.

For most sauna stoves, a channel of 250 × 120 mm is sufficient, these are the standard dimensions of red brick. For laying the chimney, you will need special bricks half the standard, they can be bought ready-made or cut off with a grinder with a diamond disc.

The thickness of the solution is not more than 1 cm, the thicker the solution, the greater the risk of cracking during thermal expansion. We do not recommend making such a complex chimney for a metal furnace; it is enough to install a pipe for it.

Step 1. Prepare bricks, tools and mortar. Measure down to the gate and fluff.

Step 2 Start laying from the bottom of the chimney from the stove, check each row with a level in all four planes. After three or four rows, clean the channel from excess solution.

Practical advice. The laying of the chimney can be significantly accelerated. After 2-3 rows of bricks are laid, fasten the ropes in them at the corners and pull them to the ceiling. Install the ropes strictly vertically, they control the position of the chimney. No more wasting time checking each row by level.

Step 3 Fasten the frame at the installation site of the gate. The installation of the frame should not disturb the position of the upper plane of the bricks, for this you need to select a recess in them according to the size of the gate frame.

Step 4 Continue laying until the beginning of the fluffing device. Calculate the number of rows that will have to be laid before the fluff reaches the desired size. At the same time, keep in mind that in one row the perimeter of the chimney increases by a quarter of the width of the brick. The fluff should be tightly adjacent to the ceiling beams. If they are at a great distance from the chimney, it is necessary to make special resistant frame structures.

Step 5 Lay out the fluff according to the diagram. Keep in mind that this is only a schematic diagram, the specific number of rows of bricks to reach the maximum fluff width depends on the design of the bath. It is not necessary to make a square profile fluff, you can lay out a rectangular one.

In the photo - fluff

Important. There should be no gaps between the ceiling beams and fluff, otherwise the chimney will stagger under the influence of sudden gusts of wind. Fluctuations will violate the tightness of the junction of the pipe to the roofing, and this will certainly cause leaks. What is a constantly wet truss system or attic, no need to explain. Do not lay any mineral wool for thermal insulation, the thickness of the fluff completely excludes spontaneous combustion of wooden elements.

Step 6 Gradually, for the same number of rows, go from fluff to the size of the chimney, pull it up to the roof.

Step 7 At the lower level of the roof, start laying the otter. This element of the chimney is more complicated than fluffing, the increase in the width of the chimney should occur gradually, taking into account the slope of the slopes. We strongly recommend to increase the stability of the structure during masonry by immuring metal plates into the otter and attaching them to the rafter system.

The ends of the bricks need to be trimmed, this will reduce the gap between the roofing and the otter. If you don’t want to cut it, we advise you to install metal sheets between the bottom of the otter and the roofing to prevent atmospheric precipitation from entering the rafter system and the attic.

Practical advice. For those who are building a brick chimney for the first time, we strongly advise you to lay bricks on the ground without mortar before laying them according to the scheme. This will allow you to better understand the masonry technology and avoid annoying mistakes.

Important. If the chimney plaster is not planned, then the visible part of the masonry must be done under the internal or external jointing. The bricks are even and beautiful - embroider the seams, the appearance of the materials is unsatisfactory - you will have to plaster. We will talk about the technology of plastering a little below.

Step 8 Header masonry. A purely decorative element, increase the outer perimeter of the chimney by a quarter of a brick. The head is one row and immediately after it is the finish line. In the finish row, we recommend immuring a metal mesh from birds. Fasten the protective cap on top of the chimney with dowels.

Give two or three days to dry, and then start the first heating of the furnace. Do not be alarmed if, at the beginning of the heating, there is little or no draft at all, over time everything will fall into place.

How to plaster the top of a brick chimney

There are two options:

• buy special metal corners in the store;
• make your own universal fixture.

We believe that making a universal fixture is much more profitable.

1. First, it's much cheaper.
2. Secondly, it can be used when plastering door and window openings, external corners of walls, etc. e. This means that such devices will always come in handy at a construction site.
3. Thirdly, you can independently adjust the thickness of the plaster layer depending on the condition of the surfaces.

The device is made from pieces of wire rod or building reinforcement Ø 6 ÷ 8 mm. The length of the reinforcement depends on the width of the chimney or walls. The bar must be bent with the letter V, the center of the bend is located in the middle. The ends are again bent at an angle of approximately 90°. How to use the device?

Step 1. Pick up even wooden slats, the length of the slats should be equal to the length of the surface. It may be shorter, but then you have to plaster in two steps.

Step 2. Install the rails at the corners of the chimney (or opening) and fix them with two manufactured clamps. Clamps should securely hold the rails in position.

Step 3. Depending on the condition of the surface of the chimney, select the thickness of the plaster layer. Try not to exceed 1.5 cm, if there are large protrusions, then remove them.

Step 4 Using a level, set the rails in a vertical position. There should be two rails on one side of the chimney. Repeat the same operations on the opposite wall.

Step 5 Start plastering the surfaces, remove the excess mass as a rule and align it with the installed rails. Repeat the steps on the opposite side of the chimney.

The next day, carefully remove the clips and slats. Now the even corners of the plaster will serve as guides for the rule during the plastering of the two remaining planes of the chimney. Simple, fast, cheap and beautiful. Do not throw away the clamps, they can be used to process all external corners in buildings.

Simplified chimney masonry

We hope that you have carefully read our tips and already have an idea about laying a traditional chimney. In this case, the simplified version will not create big problems. Let us dwell on its differences and technological features.

Video - Simplified chimney

The chimney has no fluff and otter. Fluff serves as an element of fixation, since it is not there, you need to fasten the structure in a different way. We recommend making a frame around the perimeter of the chimney from a corner, using threaded connections to attach the frame to the chimney at ceiling level. Next, it must be fixed to the ceiling beams. You can fix it with metal plates or building reinforcement, it doesn’t matter. The main thing is that the chimney does not stagger.

The otter was needed to seal the exit of the chimney above the roofing. It does not murmur - do the sealing yourself. Use metal sheets for this, the specific sealing technology depends on the type of roof. We will indicate only the main general points.

1. Protective aprons must be bent and inserted into the groove cut on the planes of the chimney.
2. To completely exclude the ingress of moisture, it is highly desirable to treat all contact points with any sealant.
3. There is a possibility - during the arrangement of the roofing, purchase factory sealing systems for the chimney outlet.

If the brick used for laying the chimney has already been in use, then the internal channel must also be plastered. Special angles and straightness should not be observed, the main thing is that the surfaces are as smooth as possible.

The presence of effective ventilation in the steam room and shower is one of the important conditions for the comfort of taking water procedures. In addition, it helps to quickly dry the premises and increase the life of all wooden structures.

Putting a brick chimney just for the sake of smoke from the stove is not practical. In this case, you will have to make ventilation products in the walls. We strongly recommend that you immediately make ventilation ducts in the chimney. If the stove and chimney are placed correctly, then it becomes possible to equip ventilation not only in the steam room, but also in the shower room. For other rooms of the bath, ventilation can not be done at all.

In the channels, it is allowed to install electric fans () or decorative grilles with adjustable blinds or dampers.

How is the work on laying ventilation ducts carried out?

Step 1. On the ground of bricks, make a preliminary layout of the chimney, provide in it one channel for smoke and two for ventilation. In order to save money, lay the pipes from the stove with aerated concrete blocks, they are much cheaper, use brick only for the smoke channel. The entire chimney made of bricks should be laid only from the opening of the ventilation ducts (under the ceiling of the steam room and shower room). After opening the channels, the chimney is made only of ceramic bricks.

Prices for aerated concrete blocks

aerated concrete block

Step 2 Lay the bricks with a dressing, it is enough to make the dimensions of the ventilation holes around the perimeter ≈ 12 cm, which is one width and two thicknesses of a standard red solid brick.

Step 3 If, for technological reasons, the ventilation duct has to be made in the corner of the chimney, then cut the bricks with a grinder to give them the desired geometric shape. Close the seams carefully, do not leave gaps. Violation of the tightness of the seams significantly reduces the efficiency of ventilation of the premises.

Step 4 The recommended wall thickness between the ducts is half brick, but you can change it depending on the required distance between the ventilation and smoke ducts. Tie each new row with the old minimum of half a brick. Keep in mind that the dimensions of the chimney with ventilation ducts increase, wind sail loads increase, therefore, its stability must be increased.

Step 5 According to the same algorithm, continue laying along the entire length of the chimney. To speed up work between extreme corners, pull the rope and control the position of the bricks along it. It does not hurt to check the verticality of the structure from time to time. The head is made in the usual way - with a third of the brick overhanging through the row.

Video - Laying a chimney with ventilation ducts

Otter and fluff in such chimneys should not be done, attach the chimney to beams and rafters using metal corners and plates.

How to calculate the diameter of the chimney channel

You can find statements that the height of the chimney cannot be less than five meters. This is not so, ignore such statements. Just imagine a bath about two meters high, above which a three-meter-high chimney sticks out.

Precise calculations are quite complicated, you need to know a lot of formulas and take into account a large number of factors: the temperature of the gases at the inlet to the chimney, the speed of the air flow, the height, the burning rate and the type of fuel, the wind rose, etc. You should not engage in such complex calculations, we advise use the Swedish method. It takes into account the main indicators, based on them, calculations are made and a schedule is drawn up. As initial data, you only need to know the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe furnace (F), the chimney (f) and its height (H). Having two parameters, you can always find out the unknown third.

For example, you know the dimensions of the firebox and chimney, you need to know its height depending on the profile configuration. Find the percentage of these parameters and use the graph to find out the minimum height. Or vice versa, the height of the chimney and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe furnace are known, but you need to find out the size of the chimney channel. Again, using the simplest arithmetic operations on the graph, you will find out the dimensions of the channel, taking into account the configuration of the section.

Otter and fluff masonry can be simplified by using metal plates or rods. With their help, connect the rows together, just do not allow the bars to fall into the working channels.

You can find advice not to plaster low-quality bricks, but to cover them with special ceramic tiles. We do not recommend doing this for several reasons.

Ceramic tiles for the stove - an example

1. Firstly, there is a high probability that the tile will fall off, constant cyclic changes in the linear dimensions of the chimney have an extremely negative effect on the adhesion of the tile.
2. Secondly, before facing uneven surfaces, in any case, they will have to be trimmed. Why then do double work for triple the money?

Important. The duration of operation of a brick chimney largely depends on the modes of furnace furnace. Red brick is very afraid of high humidity. Especially in the winter, when the water freezes and breaks its integrity at a double speed. What to do so that the brick in the chimney is not wet? Everything is very simple - the temperature of the gases at the outlet of the chimney must be at least + 110 ° C, such conditions will exclude the appearance of condensate on the walls of the channel.

But here there are problems. To achieve such a smoke temperature at the exit, it is necessary to heat the stove strongly, and this is not always possible and advisable. In addition, most modern factory furnaces have a fairly high efficiency, the heat of combustion of the fuel is given off in the combustion chamber, and relatively cold gases enter the chimney. So condensation is inevitable. By the way, condensate not only negatively affects the strength of the brick. A lot of soot sticks to the wet walls of the channel, the chimney will have to be cleaned in almost a year.

There are two ways out of this situation.

1. The first is to heat the stove strongly.
2. The second is to insert a thin-walled alloy steel pipe into the chimney channel.

Choose which of the methods we offer best suits you.

Brick is a material that is widely used in the world. It is a unified and universal building stone created artificially. Thus, brick is used for the construction of multiple objects: summer cottage, house, industrial buildings and elements of these buildings. It is worth understanding the specific features of working with brick as the most popular building material, using the example of laying pipes from it.

Brick is a unified and universal building stone created artificially.

brick laying agent

As a mortar for laying bricks, it is best to use a cement-sand compound, in which the ratio of cement and sand is 1: 4-6. Its task is to exclude the displacement of bricks relative to each other. During the laying process, the brick is heavily loaded in displacement and compression, however, not in rupture. Thus, this solution has a rather skinny appearance. Sometimes, to increase plasticity, a part of clay or lime is added to it.

The main tools used in the masonry process:

• trowel (it is used to apply the solution);
• kirochka (represents a hammer with a sharpened striker; used for cutting and splitting bricks);
• grinder (allows for fairly accurate trimming of bricks);
• building level (helps to fold the brick evenly);
• plumb;
• high strength cords.

Features of chimney pipes

Some people are wondering what material to fold the chimney on their own. The answer to this question is obvious, however, there are some nuances that must be taken into account when choosing a particular one. Specific areas of application of bricks are diverse: with its help, they can be used to produce facing and masonry walls of a bearing, non-bearing type and other elements of structures. In addition, there is one that is used for laying foundations, walls, vaults and bricks in order to lay down a pipe, a production furnace.

Brick pipes, in turn, serve to remove flue gases during the combustion of the furnace and to use the furnace without fear. A brick chimney is a profitable and reliable solution. Despite the fact that such structures are used quite actively, there should be no problems finding a decent worker. The traditional brick pipe is equipped at the stage of building a house. It can be built by yourself as a self-supporting structure or as part of a building wall. Regardless of which channels will be placed in the brick chimney (smoke, ventilation, gas exhaust), the construction process always has one algorithm.

The main components of the pipe:

• otter;
• roof;
• neck;
• metal cap;
• insulation;
• smoke damper;
• rafters;
• cement mortar;
• cap;
• chimney;
• fluff;
• crate;
• roof beam.

Rooftop accommodation

It is correct to equip the pipe in close proximity to the roof ridge, however, this is not always possible, since the stove can be placed in a hard-to-reach part of the house. Thus, depending on where the furnace is located, the height of the structure to be folded is determined.

In the case when the structure is located no further than 1.5 meters from the ridge, then its height should be 0.5 - 0.6 meters. If the distance from the ridge is 1.5 - 3 meters, then the head should be located at the level of the ridge or even rise.

Fluff and otter style

Fluff is a large expansion of the pipe in the area of ​​​​its intersection with the attic floor. The main task of this component is to protect wooden coatings from ignition and severe overheating. The correct fluff thickness should be at least one brick. At the same time, a thermal insulation layer is simply necessary. The latter is best created using felt impregnated with a solution of clay or asbestos sheet. A stove that is planned to be fired for more than 3 hours also applies to this rule.

In the case when the thermal insulation layer could not be created, it would be correct to increase the thickness to one and a half bricks. If the burning time is increased to more than 3 hours, the thickness of the cutting must be increased to two bricks without insulation or with the creation of a thermal insulation layer.

The otter serves to prevent snow and rain from entering the attic through the cracks between the roof and the chimney. These slots are closed with a collar made of roofing metal.

The otter is a kind of extension of the pipe, located above the roof. It looks like a small overlap, the purpose of which is to protect the house from the penetration of precipitation from the atmosphere. Reinforced concrete and brick can be used to create an otter.

This component consists of 10 rows:

1. The first row has five bricks.
2. The second row must be increased on both sides by one quarter of the brick (in this case, on the one hand, you need to mount the insert in three quarters of the brick, and on the other - in a quarter).
3. The third row is equipped with a canopy on both sides of the pipe.

Otter masonry for a 45 degree roof

Accordingly, the fourth and subsequent rows are necessary in order to increase the resulting canopy. The seventh row extends the canopy already on three sides of the pipe. The eighth row creates a canopy on four sides. The ninth row is laid by analogy with the eighth (in this case, the process is supplemented by dressing the seams), and the tenth is laid exactly like the first.

In order to guarantee the flow of water from the otter and the head and protect them from various kinds of destruction, a cement solution is applied on top of the structure, which is subsequently leveled and smoothed.

Before starting construction operations yourself, it is advised to prepare chipped and broken bricks: three-fours and plates, halves and fours.

Facing of internal planes of pipes

The inside of the chimney is lined at the construction stage. This greatly increases the strength of the structure. It is possible to line the chimney with rigid casing or soft corrugated pipes. The latter makes the job easier. In addition, you can find a method of lining the inner planes of chimneys and pipes using metal foil with a polymer film.

Exterior finish

The outer plane of the pipe is finished, mainly for the insulation of the overall structure. We are talking about the heating of the riser. Pipe finishing can be performed using several technologies. One of the most common methods is plastering, which is carried out over the entire plane of the riser using lime-cement mortar, to which slag is added. It is worth noting that the slag must be sieved in advance. To do this, use a sieve with a maximum mesh size of 5 mm. The plaster on the pipe must be laid in two layers (the thickness of each is 5-6 mm). In order to prevent the solution from shedding, it must be placed on a wire mesh, where the cross section of the cells does not exceed 2 cm. In the process of drying the plaster, certain cracks may appear in it (they should be repaired with a similar solution).

Chimney. Peculiarities

The stove includes the placement of a chimney in the interior. Similar channels are connected to the chimney and the firebox. The chimney can be either long or short, with one or more turns - smoke turns. In particular, the latter are referred to as smoke channels. They can be horizontal and vertical, as well as holiday and lifting. The cross section of the channels should be 252x252 mm (brick to brick), 130x130mm (half a brick) and 250x130mm (half a brick). The inner plane of the channels should have an even shape to reduce the resistance to the movement of gases. The task of absolutely each of the channels is to accumulate the heat of the exhaust gases and give it to the heating of the house.

Foundation for construction

The foundation is a component with which any chimney must be equipped. It can be built from solid brick, stone, but it is mainly created using reinforced concrete. The base has the shape of a rectangular parallelepiped and is at least 30 cm high. Its width and length are selected so that it protrudes at least 15 cm from each side. However, the designer must always decide on its dimensions, taking into account the load-bearing capacity the mass of the pipe and its base. In addition, he has the right to determine the class of concrete and the number of required reinforcement.

In the process of creating the foundation of a brick chimney, it is important to take into account the parameters of the protective layer of the main reinforcement, which can be:

• 5 cm (in the case of a base made of lean concrete);
• 7 cm (if the foundation does not include insulation).

Remember! If the chimney is located in the inner part of the house, then the sole of its base may be 50 cm below the floor level. However, if the pipe is part of the outer wall, then the base of the foundation should be located at the depth of the foundation of the house, that is, below the freezing limit of the soil.

Chimney shaft

The minimum dimensions of channels made of bricks should be 14x14 cm, that is, 1/2x1/2. Depending on the purpose and efficiency of the height of the channels, it is possible to build a chimney with a larger section, for example, 14x20 cm, 20x27 cm, 20x20 cm.

It is advised to fold these components in the form of a square or rectangle, the aspect ratio of which is 2:3. For laying brick channels, the same mortar is used as for the construction of load-bearing walls of buildings. In the process of laying, the usual suture dressing is mainly used - variable laying of spoon and tychkovy rows.

The furnace must have a smooth plane of the channels, without any depressions and protrusions. Thus, it is recommended to build them using steel or wooden templates. As the laying progresses, the template is gently lifted up by the handles, thus ensuring accuracy in size and smoothness of the walls of the channels.

A brick chimney is usually erected with a deviation from the vertical (attitude). In this case, the inner walls of the channels are laid using bricks perpendicular to the slope line. The outer side of the chimney shafts must be embroidered or plastered along the entire height, with the exception of areas of passage through fire-resistant coatings (for example, reinforced concrete).

If the channels of the brick chimney are laid in the outer wall of the house and if they pass through the attic, then the outer walls of the pipe must be made brick-thick (25 cm) or additionally insulated, for example, with mineral wool.

Chimney complex

The most modern mechanism of a brick chimney is a chimney complex. It is a properly composed set of modular hollow-type blocks made of lightweight concrete. Inside them, a ceramic pipe insulated with mineral wool is mounted. The systems are supplied in various pipe diameters: from 14 to 60 cm and can be used with any available heating equipment (boiler, stove, fireplace). These systems also make it possible to group flue, ventilation and flue ducts in the chimney using special combined modular components.

Wall connection

Now a traditional oven is being built in close proximity to the supporting structures of the walls. At the same time, it can be laid out not from bricks, but, for example, from cellular concrete, expanded clay concrete or ceramic porous blocks of a hollow type. In this situation, it is necessary to connect the structure of the pipe and the wall using anchors made of flat steel 1.5 x 20 mm or wire with a diameter of 6 mm. However, given the large dimensions of today's wall materials, anchors need to be folded in each row of the wall. In this case, the chimney must be laid to a minimum depth of 20 cm in order for the stove to function reliably.

The efficiency and safety of a heating device that generates heat by burning a particular fuel largely depends on the parameters and condition of the chimney. Today, many companies are engaged in the production of insulated steel models, but not all users are ready to put up with their high cost and relatively short service life. Often, homeowners decide to build a chimney pipe using traditional technology, that is, from brick, with their own hands. To do this, you need to follow some rules and know which materials are best to use.

Strengths and weaknesses of a brick chimney

Brick chimneys can be used at any facility, be it a boiler room or a private house. With the advent of prefabricated steel "sandwiches", they have become less popular, but are still used quite widely. This is due to the following advantages:

• a brick chimney is cheaper than a "sandwich";
• lasts longer: about 30 years;
• is an important architectural element and visually blends perfectly with certain types of roofing, such as tiles.

But this design also has a lot of disadvantages:

1. In terms of complexity and duration, the construction of such a chimney is inferior to the installation of a “sandwich”, and special transport will be required to deliver materials.
2. A brick chimney has a significant weight, so it has to be provided with a reliable foundation.
3. It has a rectangular shape in diameter, although a round section is most suitable. In the corners, turbulences are formed that prevent the normal outflow of gases and thus worsen traction.
4. The inner surface of a brick chimney, even when finished with plaster, remains rough, as a result of which it becomes covered with soot faster.

Unlike stainless steel, brick is quickly destroyed by acidic condensate. The latter is formed if the temperature of the flue gases during their movement through the pipe has time to drop below 90 degrees. Therefore, when connecting a modern economical boiler with low-temperature exhaust or a stove operated in smoldering mode (heat generators of the Professor Butakov, Bullerjan, Breneran brands) to a brick chimney, it is necessary to carry out its sleeve, that is, install a stainless steel pipe inside.

Elements of a brick chimney

The design of the chimney is very simple.

Schematic diagram of a brick pipe, which should be followed

The flue duct is protected from above by a cone-shaped part - an umbrella or a cap (1), which prevents precipitation, dust and small debris from getting inside. The upper element of the pipe - the head (2) - is wider than its main part. Thanks to this, it is possible to reduce the amount of moisture that enters during rain on the lower area - the neck (3).

Above the roof there is another widening - an otter (5). Thanks to him, atmospheric moisture does not get into the gap between the chimney and the roofing (6). A slope (4) is formed on the otter with the help of a cement mortar, along which the water that has fallen on the pipe runs. To prevent the rafters (7) and battens (8) from igniting from contact with the hot surface of the chimney, they are wrapped with heat-insulating material.

The section of the chimney that crosses the attic is called the riser (9). In its lower part, just at the level of the attic floor, there is another widening - fluff (10).

Note! All three widenings - the head, the otter and the fluff - are made only due to the thickening of the wall, while the channel cross section always remains constant. An otter with fluff, as well as other elements of the chimney installed at the intersection of the roof or ceiling, are called cuttings.

Brick chimney is more reliable than metal

The thick fluff walls protect the wooden floor elements (11) from excessive heat, which could cause them to ignite.

The chimney can be made without fluff. Then, in the zone of the floor passage around the pipe, a steel box is mounted, which is subsequently filled with a bulk heat insulator - expanded clay, sand or vermiculite. The thickness of this layer should be 100–150 mm. But experienced users do not recommend using this cutting option: the insulating filler pours through the cracks.

The fluff is additionally lined with an effective non-combustible heat insulator (12). Previously, asbestos was used everywhere in this capacity, but after the discovery of carcinogenic properties in it, they try not to use this material. A harmless but more expensive alternative is basalt board.

The lowest section of the chimney is also called the neck (14). It has a valve (13) through which the draft can be adjusted.

Depending on the construction method, the chimney can be one of the following types:

In a vertical brick chimney, draft is formed naturally, that is, due to convection. A prerequisite for the formation of an upward flow is the temperature difference between the ambient air and the exhaust gases: the larger it is, the stronger the draft is formed in the pipe. Therefore, for the normal functioning of the chimney, it is very important to take care of its insulation.

Calculation of the main parameters

At the design stage, it is necessary to determine the height of the chimney and the cross-sectional dimensions of the flue duct. The task of the calculation is to provide the optimal traction force. It should be sufficient to ensure that the required amount of air enters the furnace and all combustion products are removed to the fullest extent, and at the same time not too large so that hot gases have time to give up their heat.

Height

The height of the chimney must be selected taking into account the following requirements:

1. The minimum height difference between the grate and the top of the head is 5 m.
2. If the roof is covered with combustible material, such as shingles, the chimney cap must rise at least 1.5 m above it.
3. For roofs with non-combustible coating, the minimum distance to the top is 0.5 m.

The ridge of a pitched roof or a flat parapet in windy weather should not create support over the chimney. To do this, you must adhere to the following rules:

• if the pipe is located closer than 1.5 m in relation to the ridge or parapet, then it should rise above this element by at least 0.5 m;
• when moving away from the ridge or parapet at a distance of 1.5 to 3 m, the pipe head can be at the same height as this element;
• when removed more than 3 m, the top of the head can be placed below the ridge, at a height drawn through it, an inclined line with an angle of 10 degrees relative to the horizontal.

If there is a higher building near the house, then the chimney should be erected 0.5 m above its roof.

The brick chimney is very neat and fits into any exterior

Section dimensions

If a furnace or boiler is to be connected to the chimney, then the dimensions of the section should be determined depending on the power of the heat generator:

• up to 3.5 kW: the channel is made half a brick in size - 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7 kW: 200x270 mm;
• over 7 kW: in two bricks - 270x270 mm.

The power of factory-made heat generators is indicated in the passport. If the stove or boiler is homemade, this parameter has to be determined independently. The calculation is carried out according to the formula:

W \u003d Vt * 0.63 * * 0.8 * E / t,

• W - heat generator power, kW;
• Vt - the volume of the furnace, m 3;
• 0.63 - average load factor of the furnace;
• 0.8 is an average coefficient showing what part of the fuel burns out in full;
• E is the calorific value of the fuel, kWh / m 3;
• T is the burning time of one fuel load, h.

Usually they take T = 1 hour - approximately during this time a portion of fuel burns out during normal combustion.

The chimney can always be decorated if desired.

The calorific value E depends on the type of wood and its moisture content. The averages are:

• for poplar: at a moisture content of 12% E - 1856 kWh / cu. m, at a humidity of 25 and 50% - respectively 1448 and 636 kWh / m 3;
• for spruce: at a humidity of 12, 25 and 50%, respectively, 2088, 1629 and 715 kWh / m 3;
• for pine: respectively, 2413, 1882 and 826 kWh / m 3;
• for birch: respectively, 3016, 2352 and 1033 kW * h / m 3;
• for oak: respectively, 3758, 2932 and 1287 kWh / m 3.

For fireplaces, the calculation is somewhat different. Here, the cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney depends on the size of the furnace window: F = k * A.

• F - cross-sectional area of ​​the smoke channel, cm 2 ;
• K - coefficient of proportionality, depending on the height of the chimney and the shape of its cross section;
• A - the area of ​​​​the furnace window, cm 2.

The coefficient K is equal to the following values:

• with a chimney height of 5 m: for a circular section - 0.112, for a square one - 0.124, for a rectangular one - 0.132;
• 6 m: 0.105, 0.116, 0.123;
• 7 m: 0.1, 0.11, 0.117;
• 8 m: 0.095, 0.105, 0.112;
• 9 m: 0.091, 0.101, 0.106;
• 10 m: 0.087, 0.097, 0.102;
• 11 m: 0.089, 0.094, 0.098.

For intermediate heights, the K factor can be determined from a special graph.

The actual dimensions of the chimney channel tend to be close to the calculated ones. But they are selected taking into account the standard sizes of bricks, blocks or cylindrical parts.

Materials and tools

A brick chimney is operated in conditions of significant temperature fluctuations, therefore it should be built from the highest quality bricks. Compliance with this rule will also determine how safe the structure will be: if the brick does not crack, it means that poisonous gases and sparks that can cause a fire will not enter the room.

Types of brick

The pipe is erected from solid ceramic bricks with refractory properties of grades from M150 to M200. Depending on the quality, this material is divided into three grades.

First grade

In the manufacture of such bricks, the temperature and holding time during firing ideally match the type of clay. You can recognize it by the following features:

• blocks have a bright red color, a yellowish tint is possible;
• the body of the brick does not have pores and inclusions visible to the eye;
• all edges are even and smooth, there are no crumbled areas on the edges;
• tapping with a light hammer or other metal object gives a clear and sonorous sound.

Second grade

Such a brick is unburnt. Here are the signs that are typical for him:

• blocks have a pale orange slightly saturated color;
• numerous pores are visible on the surface;
• the sound when tapped is deaf and short;
• on the edges and ribs there may be defects in the form of scuffs and crumbled areas.

Bricks of the 2nd grade are characterized by low heat capacity, frost resistance and density.

Third grade

• blocks have a deep dark red color, come across almost brown;
• when tapped, they give a too sonorous sound;
• edges and edges contain defects in the form of chips and scuffs;
• the structure is porous.

Such a brick does not have frost resistance, does not hold heat and is too fragile.

The chimney should be built of bricks of the first grade. Second-rate should not be used at all, and third-rate can be used to make foundations for free-standing pipes.

What solution is needed

The requirements for the quality of the mortar are as high as for bricks. Under any temperature, weather and mechanical influences, it must ensure the tightness of the masonry throughout the entire service life. Since individual sections of the chimney operate in different conditions, the solutions used during its laying are different.

This scheme will help you choose the right mortar for laying bricks

If the pipe being erected is a root pipe, then its first two rows (zone No. 3), located under the floor, should be placed on a cement-sand mortar (3-4 parts of sand per 1 part of cement). To make the mixture more plastic, you can add 0.5 parts of lime to it.

The upstream sections of the chimney, up to and including the fluff, have an internal temperature of 355 to 400 degrees, so a clay-sand mortar is used in their construction. If the fluff ends under the ceiling (zone No. 8), and the cutting is made of bulk material (zone No. 9), then the use of this mixture also applies to the rows in the cutting.

The riser, otter and chimney neck (zone 10), which do not heat up much, but are subject to wind loads, should be laid with lime mortar. The same composition can also be used when arranging the head (zone No. 11), but the usual cement-sand mixture is also suitable for this section.

The composition of the solution depends on which part of the chimney is being built.

Clay for the solution should be taken medium-fat. It should not have a strong odor, as this is a sign of the presence of organic impurities that cause cracks in the mortar.

The absence of organic matter is also desirable for sand. This requirement is met by mountain sand, as well as its cheaper replacement from crushed brick. The latter can be ceramic and fireclay. Since the chimney is built from ceramic bricks, the same sand should be used.

In addition to these materials, special purchased items will be required - a cleaning door, a valve and a cap. The gaps between the brickwork and the metal products mounted in it are sealed with asbestos cord or basalt cardboard.

Instruments

The most common tools will be used:

• Master OK;
• pick hammer;
• plumb.

Do not do without the building level.

Preparatory work

If a root chimney is being built, then construction work should begin with a reinforced concrete foundation. Its minimum height is 30 cm, while the sole must be located below the freezing depth of the soil. The foundation of the chimney should not have a rigid connection with the foundation of the building, since both objects shrink differently.

Some masters soak the brick before starting work. This makes sense, since when dry, the blocks will actively absorb water from the solution and the masonry will be fragile. But keep in mind that the masonry of the soaked brick dries for a long time, so choose a technique in accordance with the time of year and weather conditions - the brick must dry before the first frost.

Sand must be thoroughly cleaned of impurities by sifting through a sieve with a cell of 1x1 mm, and then rinsed. It is better to rub the clay through a sieve after soaking. The lime used must be slaked.

Solutions are prepared according to the following recipe:

1. Clay-sand: sand, fireclay and ordinary clay are mixed in a ratio of 4: 1: 1.
2. Lime: sand, lime and cement grade M400 are combined in a ratio of 2.5: 1: 0.5.
3. Cement-sand: sand and cement grade M400 are mixed in a ratio of 3:1 or 4:1.

The brick mortar must be of sufficient density

Clay is soaked for 12-14 hours, stirring from time to time and adding, if necessary, water. Then sand is added to it. The above recipe is designed for clay of medium fat content, but it is advisable to check this parameter in advance in the following way:

1. Take 5 small portions of clay of the same mass.
2. In 4 portions, sand is added in an amount of 10, 25, 75 and 100% of the volume of clay, and one is left in its pure form. For obviously oily clay, the amount of sand in portions is 50, 100, 150 and 200%. Each of the test pieces should be mixed until homogeneous and then, by gradual addition of water, made into a solution with the consistency of a thick dough. Properly prepared mixture should not stick to your hands.
3. From each portion, several balls with a diameter of 4-5 cm are made and the same number of plates with a thickness of 2 to 3 cm.
4. Then they are subjected to drying for 10–12 days in a room with a constant room temperature and without drafts.

The result is determined, considering the solution suitable for work that satisfies two requirements:

• products made from it did not crack after drying (this happens with high fat content);
• balls dropped from a height of 1 m do not crumble (this would indicate insufficient fat content).

The mortar that has passed the test is prepared in sufficient volume (2-3 buckets are required for 100 bricks), while adding enough water so that the mixture easily slides off the trowel.

How to lay out a chimney with your own hands: step by step instructions

If materials and tools are prepared, construction work can begin:

Otter formation

The riser ends next, half the height, protruding above the lower edge of the hole in the roof. Those that are at the level of wooden rafters and battens must be insulated with asbestos or basalt strips.

When building an otter, you need to use asbestos or basalt strips

The otter starts next. Like fluff, it gradually expands, but unevenly, and taking into account the different heights of the edges of the hole in the roof. Further, the dimensions of the chimney again return to their original values ​​- the neck of the furnace begins.

This is what a well-formed otter looks like

The last stage is the device of the head of two rows. The first row is made with a widening of 30–40 mm in all directions. The second row - according to the usual scheme, while on the ledge of the lower row an inclined surface is laid out with a concrete solution.

In the future, you will have to fix an umbrella on the head

An umbrella is attached to the ledge of the head. The clearance between its bottom and top of the head should be 150–200 mm.

If the roofing material is combustible and a solid fuel heat generator is connected to the chimney, a spark arrester (metal mesh) must be installed on the head.

The gap between the pipe and the roof must be sealed.

The gap between the roof and the pipe is sealed

The "steps" of the otter are smoothed with a solution so that an inclined surface is formed, after which the entire outer part of the chimney must be treated with a waterproofing compound.

Insulation of a brick chimney

The cheapest way to insulate a chimney is to coat its surface with a solution based on lime and slag. First, a reinforcing mesh is attached to the chimney, then a solution is applied layer by layer, making the mixture thicker each time. The number of layers is from 3 to 5. As a result, the coating has a thickness of 40 mm.

Pipe insulation with mineral wool - the most economical option

After the plaster dries, cracks may appear on it, which must be covered up. Next, the chimney is whitewashed with a solution of chalk or lime.

A more expensive, but more effective option for insulation is associated with the use of basalt wool with a density of 30–50 kg / m 3. Since the walls of the chimney are flat, it is best to use this insulation in the form of rigid plates, and not soft panels (mats).

To install basalt wool on the chimney, you need to fix the metal profile frame with dowels. The insulation is placed in the frame, after which it can be fixed with a stretched nylon cord or screwed to the brickwork with special dish-shaped dowels that have a large diameter cap (to prevent material from being squeezed through).

A vapor-tight film is laid over the basalt wool (this heat insulator absorbs water well), and then it is plastered with an ordinary cement-sand mortar over a reinforcing mesh or sheathed with tin (can be galvanized).

Sleeve installation

Chimney lining is carried out in the following sequence:

1. In the connection area of ​​​​the boiler or furnace, the chimney masonry is dismantled to a height sufficient to install the longest part of the steel liner. Usually this is a condensate trap.
2. Consistently install all the elements of the liner (sleeve), starting from the topmost. As the installation progresses, the parts to be installed move upwards, making room for subsequent ones. Each element has hooks that can be hooked on with a rope passed through the top hole.
3. After installing the sleeve, the space between it and the walls of the chimney is filled with a non-combustible heat insulator.

Flexible sleeve will allow you to properly form the chimney

At the end, the opening in the chimney is again laid with bricks.

Chimney cleaning

A layer of soot deposited inside the chimney not only reduces its cross section, but also increases the likelihood of a fire, since it can ignite. Sometimes it is even specially burned out, but this cleaning method is very dangerous. It is more correct to remove soot by a combination of two methods:

1. Mechanical involves the use of brushes and scrapers on long stackable holders, as well as weights on a strong cord, which is passed into the chimney from above.
2. Chemical: in the furnace, along with ordinary fuel, a special agent is burned, for example, Chimney Sweep Log (sold in hardware stores). It contains many substances - coal wax, ammonium sulfate, zinc chloride, etc. The gas released during the combustion of this agent forms a coating on the walls of the chimney, which prevents soot from subsequently sticking to them.

The second method is used as a preventive.

Video: laying a brick pipe

At first glance, the chimney seems to be an extremely simple design. However, at each stage of its construction - from the choice of materials to the installation of thermal insulation - a balanced and deliberate approach is required. Following the recommendations of experts, you can build a solid and safe structure that will last for many years.

Nowadays, there are a large number of different chimneys suitable for a solid fuel or gas boiler. The latest developments in this area and the emergence of new materials allow manufacturers to produce chimneys, which in their design are separate complex units that can successfully resist corrosion, soot deposits and condensate. But still, despite this, many people prefer to lay down a brick chimney with their own hands.

Recently, the construction of country houses has become massive. Along with this increased interest in fireplaces and stoves. People are trying to build stoves according to old, proven recipes that they inherited from their fathers and grandfathers. But the kiln art in a certain period of development of our country in some regions was almost completely lost. Today we will try to help you fold the chimney with your own hands.

Chimney - what does it consist of?

Before laying down a brick chimney, you need to figure out what parts it consists of. After all, many people think that brick chimneys are an ordinary rectangular pipe made of brick laid on mortar. This is not entirely true. But let's go in order.

At the beginning . This part of the pipe is installed directly on the furnace. It can be fitted with a valve. The extension pipe must be laid out in compliance with the dressing of bricks in each row. The set-on part is not brought to the interfloor overlap of 5 or 6 rows. It all depends on the height of the furnace, the room and the thickness of the floor. This place is called the flare neck.

When laying a brick pipe, the cross section of the smoke channel in the overhead pipe and the head must be the same. Thus, the cross section of the entire flue channel in any place of the chimney has the same size.

Fluff or cutting should be laid out in several rows, widening the outer part of the chimney for 250 - 400 mm.

Then you should lay out another cut, which is called an otter. The otter forms an extension on the chimney on all four sides, not less than 100 mm. This expansion prevents atmospheric precipitation from entering through the gaps between the chimney and the roof directly into the attic space. The absence of an otter leads to the penetration of moisture into the attic, leading to the destruction of the supporting structures of the roof and ceiling.

Above the otter, the chimney must be laid in the same way as the riser. This place is called the neck of the tube.

After the neck, the outer masonry expands again, forming the head of the chimney. A weather vane or a metal cap can be installed on the head, which will protect the inside of the chimney from atmospheric precipitation.

A well-chosen weather vane or cap can significantly increase the draft in the chimney.

Do-it-yourself chimney laying

We have considered all the main parts and their names, it's time to tell you how to fold a brick chimney with your own hands.

Basic training completed

We will not mention today about materials, tools or which brick for the chimney to use, quite a lot has already been said about this on the pages of our resource. We will assume that we are all set. Our task today is to consider how to properly build a brick chimney.

The first stage - acquaintance with the drawings

Before us is a drawing of a brick chimney. Although there are many other options, this is a standard brick chimney for a stove, solid fuel boiler or fireplace. Using a special alloy metal pipe inside such a chimney can easily turn it into. Since the requirements for the conditions of smoke removal of a solid fuel and gas boiler are somewhat different.

The numbers on the drawing indicate:

1. Flygarka.
2. Pipe neck.
3. cement mortar.
4. Otter.
5. Roof.
6. Crate.
7. Rafter.
8. Riser.
9. Cutting (fluff).
10. Overlap.
11. Insulation.
12. Smoke damper.
13. Furnace neck.

Important to know: fluff and otter can be placed a little differently, it all depends on the location of the chimney relative to the roof and on the angle of its slope.

The size of the channel directly depends on the thickness of the masonry joints - remember this.

Chimney masonry - first steps

Formation of cutting

Looking from the inside, it becomes clear that the fluff is beginning to take shape.

• In the next row, the outer dimensions are already 570x710 mm.
• Bricks 90 - 100 mm thick are inserted inside.

Finishing cutting

• The fifth row is laid out with a whole brick.
• Lay out the sixth row in exactly the same way as the fifth, but strictly observing the dressing.

If necessary, to make the fluff higher, you can lay another row, with dressing under the underlying masonry.

Works in the attic

• The riser is carried through the roof.

This completes the work in the attic, then you need to start building a part of the chimney on the roof.

"Roof work"

On the roof we continue to lay out the riser. Carefully monitor the dressing of brickwork.

• The riser is displayed 1 - 2 rows above the roof, then the laying out of the otter begins.

Otter - making ledges

• The otter is laid out in nine rows.
• Each next row is larger than the previous one in outer size by one fourth of a brick.
• In this case, do not forget about observing the size of the smoke channel.
• Choose internal brick plates so that the smoke channel does not expand or narrow.

As you can see, in this row, the brickwork forms only one ledge, forward. Along the edges, the outer dimension of the chimney remained unchanged.

Thus, we have a front and two side protrusions. It remains to lay out the rear ledge.

Finishing the otter

We spread the neck

You can look at all dimensions for the height of the chimney above the roof on our resource. This applies to all chimneys, whether they are chimneys for brick boilers or other thermal units.

The final stage - the head

Inexperienced builders believe that laying a brick chimney is the same as building walls. However, the device of the chimney has its own nuances. In particular, experts do not recommend the use of a cement-sand mortar. Such a solution will not withstand sharp temperature fluctuations that occur in the wall of the chimney pipe. In addition, the usual solution will be destroyed by condensate, which inevitably settles on the pipe wall.

Therefore, it is necessary to lay a brick chimney using a thermo-efficient and chemical-resistant mortar. You can prepare a solution using ready-made mixtures. But it is expensive, so many people prefer to prepare a thermo-efficient solution on their own, such a solution consists of cement, sand, lime and fireclay. Some experts recommend using a clay solution.

If the boiler is gas

If a brick chimney is justified for a wood-burning stove and a solid fuel boiler, then for a gas boiler this is not the best chimney option. It's all about the different operating modes of the furnace, solid fuel and gas boiler. If solid fuel equipment does not require high traction, then the use of a rectangular brick pipe for a gas boiler will lead to a decrease in the efficiency of the heating unit.

When using a gas boiler, the requirements for a chimney device are different than when installing solid fuel equipment. Therefore, if a house is being built, then a gas boiler requires a chimney from a metal pipe.

If a gas boiler is being installed instead of a solid fuel or wood-burning stove, then the construction of a new chimney is impractical. However, the requirements for the chimney of a gas boiler must be met. In this case, a brick chimney is lined, that is, a metal pipe is installed inside an existing brick chimney. Thus, the requirements for the smoke exhaust device will be met and you will not have to disassemble the old pipe.

Nothing is impossible

By and large, do-it-yourself brick chimneys are a doable task for any person who loves to work with his hands for his own pleasure. It is sometimes believed that brick chimneys are a thing of the past. This is not the case, for example, lining a brick chimney with pipes with a special coating, but the device of a brick chimney allows you to do this, allows you to use them in working with the most modern heating boilers. We hope that after reading this article, you no longer have the question of how to make a brick chimney for a fireplace or stove with your own hands. Try, practice, and brick chimneys built by your own hands will delight you and your loved ones with perfect work under any conditions. Good luck to you!