The question of how to seal the seams on the ceiling between the plates becomes relevant during natural shrinkage at home: over time, this process inevitably shifts the position of concrete floors, which in turn leads to the appearance of cracks, chips, gaps.
It does not require significant financial investments, usually everything can be found in the home workshop:
- a spray gun will be needed in order to moisten, soften and quickly remove the old putty;
- construction knife for working with dried foam;
- putty knife;
- primer for cement will provide better adhesion of materials;
- starting and finishing putty;
- brush for working with a primer;
- metal brushes for cleaning cracks;
- mounting foam, if the gaps are wider than 2 cm.
A reinforcing mesh may be needed, its width is determined in accordance with the dimensions of the future seam. The size must be such that the material protrudes beyond working area 5 mm on all sides.
The choice of putty
Industry building materials offers a wide range of mixtures that allow you to quickly and easily minimum investment to cover the seams between the plates on the ceiling. special attention deserve compositions that allow you to restore surfaces in rooms with difficult operating conditions.
Gypsum putties are the most common in this segment - they set quickly and do not cause difficulties during application. They can be used in rooms in which there is a microclimate with a high level of humidity, gypsum mixes at the same time they do not exfoliate and do not crumble.
Polymer materials usually form the basis finishing, but more and more often they are used for sealing joints on the ceiling between the plates. This solution is attractive from the point of view of economy: the mixture allows you to fill the gap and at the same time prepare the ceiling for further finishing. When using polymer compositions, it must be remembered that they are intended for processing small depressions, the layer applied at one time should not exceed 1-2 mm. All stages of processing must be accompanied by intermediate drying.
Waterproof putties are used mainly in bathrooms and kitchens, they are designed for rooms with high level humidity. The special structure of the material protects the finished layer from destruction and cracking.
When deciding how to cover up the seams on the ceiling between the plates, one cannot ignore special compositions, for example, foams designed specifically for this category of work. They adhere qualitatively to the base, have high elasticity, and are used at the finishing stage. They are in demand not only for filling joints, they can be used to process curved surfaces, to prepare drywall for cladding.
Experts emphasize that it is necessary to dilute all types of mixtures immediately before starting work.
The labeling of materials always indicates the time period during which, after preparation, they will keep operational properties. Modern modifications dry out within 5-24 hours.
Instructions for work
Owners of properties on the upper floors, before proceeding to seal the joints between floor slabs on the ceiling, should make sure that roof deck intact, and the roof will not leak in the future. Often, defects in the room, which are planned to be filled with putty, are accompanied by more serious problems. If the roof of a high-rise building is finished with roofing material, and gaps have formed in it, you will first have to repair the coating, only then proceed to solve the problem in the living space.
Initial preparation of the ceiling
The first step is to thoroughly clean the problem area. Even if the gaps in the joints of the overlap are small in appearance, the surrounding surface must be treated with a spatula with high quality. If you remove the layer old finish, the real value of the gap will appear, as a rule, it exceeds the visible part by several times.
It is necessary to do “sewing”: this phrase for professional repairmen means cleaning out a defect with a thin narrow tool - a spatula, a knife, for example.
It is important to completely remove the old mortar from the gap. During construction, the zones between the panels are filled with ordinary cement, and under the influence of temperature changes, shrinkage of the building, moisture seeping from above, the material loses its original hardness. It is necessary to ensure that not a piece of cement remains in the seam, because in the future it will interfere with the high-quality adhesion of the new material.
Ceiling primer
The remaining surface also needs to be fully cleaned of old putty. If you give this stage strength and time, the output will be an aesthetic, even ceiling, but this result cannot be achieved if you only partially repair it.
You need to start by trying to use a spatula to remove the old putty in a dry way. If pieces of the coating are easily separated, then you need to scrape off the entire ceiling, otherwise it is worth moistening the surface with plenty of warm water from a spray bottle and leave for 20-25 minutes to soften. It makes no sense to wait for the putty to acquire the structure of wet whitewash, it will only become a little more pliable. When old layer will be completely removed, you need to clean the ceiling and cracks with a metal brush.
Next, dilute the primer according to the instructions on the package and use a roller and brush to cover the entire ceiling and cracks with it. Usually the composition is sold in the form of a liquid, it can be used immediately without adding water. The surface should dry for at least 5-6 hours.
How to putty the seams on the ceiling between the plates?
by the most the easy way Filling the gaps is considered to be the use of mounting foam. Thanks to the thin nose, it can easily eliminate any tear. Here you do not need to press the sprayer with force - moderate pressure is enough to evenly distribute the material over the gap. The composition expands before our eyes and fills the voids, it needs to be given a day to dry completely. Then, using a knife, carefully remove the excess.
Small defects (and this is the most common problem) are usually masked with putty. It is applied in several layers, allowing them to dry completely, after pre-priming the ceiling.
Narrow deep cracks are sealed using polyethylene foam sealing rollers (you can find specimens different diameter). On the one hand, sealant is applied to the roller and tightly filled into the primed joint - a narrow spatula will help here. Must stay small space from above for introducing expanding concrete mortar. After the latter has dried, the area is leveled using an elastic latex putty.
Joint reinforcement
Serious seams in without fail reinforce with narrow strips of paint mesh, it is most convenient to use variations with adhesive layer. The mesh is fixed on the gap, if it is ordinary - on a wet layer of putty, gently pressed so that it is not convex against the general background. When the workpiece dries, it is covered with a thin layer of putty, the mixture is leveled and allowed to fix for 1-2 days.
How to close a hole between the plates?
Often, during the cleaning of the seam, a serious overlap defect becomes noticeable - a hole in the joint area. It is prepared and primed by analogy with the pretreatment of cracks. Subsequently, the recess is filled mounting foam, after its hardening, the excess is removed and a cone is formed inside, into which the cement mortar is laid. Further, the defect is reinforced by means of putty and the installation of a mesh.
Large voids need to be installed inside a wire mesh fixed to a cement mortar or sealant. While the reinforcement dries, you need to prepare the formwork - a piece of plywood or laminate, slightly larger than the ceiling defect. On the formwork lay out a homogeneous concrete mortar medium density and pressed against the hole. It is necessary to arrange a support so that the plywood is held in place until the mixture dries. After the mixture in the opening hardens, you can remove the formwork and perform further finishing of the ceiling.
The essence of the work on sealing joints in the ceilings is such that it can be done by hand. Difficulties may arise at the stage of further leveling and finishing - it is important to achieve an aesthetic surface without visible traces of putty.
Most often, tiles are used to finish the ceiling. And this is not surprising, because this material has an aesthetic appearance, durable and easy to install. But in the process of installing tiles, you can see how seams appear between the materials. Leaving them like this is unacceptable. In order for the ceiling to acquire aesthetic beauty, it is necessary to take care of sealing the seams.
Material selection
On the shelves of hardware stores, the assortment of putty for sealing joints between tiles is very wide. Modern products are classified according to numerous criteria: water resistance, grinding fineness, chemical composition and binder composition.
Each of the available materials has its own properties and technical specifications. Today you can find mixtures that are suitable for grouting in damp and wet rooms.
Gypsum putties
These mixtures are widely used today. Such popularity is connected with the fact that after applying gypsum-based putty, it quickly sets. And working with her is a pleasure.
On the photo plaster putty
Gypsum mixes can be used when sealing joints between tiles in a room where elevated level humidity. At the same time, they will not collapse and exfoliate from the base.
Polymer putties
This version of the mixture serves as a finish, but today it has become actively used when sealing joints between tiles. The use of polymer putties is beneficial in terms of economy. With this mixture, you can not only seal the seams between the tiles, but also prepare the surface of the ceiling before installing the finishing material.
Finishing putty perfectly copes with cracks and small depressions. The thickness of the applied layer does not exceed 1 mm.
In the photo - polymer putty
For sealing seams can be used finishing putty, which is called superfinishing. It has a minimum layer thickness, and it must be applied in several layers with intermediate drying. At the same time, make sure that the total layer thickness does not exceed the maximum allowable value for this type of material. If this rule is not observed, then cracks will be present on the surface. If you apply the finishing putty correctly, then after drying you can get a dense, non-chalking, silky surface of white color. After that, you no longer need to go through it with sandpaper.
Waterproof putties
This version of the material is suitable for sealing joints between tiles in a room where there is a high level of humidity. As a rule, this is the kitchen or bathroom. After applying the putty, you can not worry that the seams will crack or crumble under the influence of moisture.
In the photo - waterproof putty
Special putties
These compounds have been specially developed for grouting joints between tiles. They have excellent elasticity and a high degree of adhesion to the base. Used for finishing. It can be used not only for sealing joints, but also for preparing GKL sheets for final cladding. In addition, it is possible to work with such a mixture even on curved surfaces.
In the photo - putty for sealing joints between tiles
It is necessary to prepare putty mixtures immediately before work will take place. Each manufacturer indicates on the packaging the time during which the mixture will not lose its properties. In addition, on the packaging you can find information regarding the expiration date and composition of the putty.
If you purchase modern material, then it dries out in 5-24 hours after application. Due to this, it is possible to avoid premature drying of the composition, and, consequently, an increased consumption of materials. In addition, you do not need to be constantly distracted to cook new portion putties.
What insulation on the ceiling in a private house is the most popular and how to use and apply it correctly is described in great detail in this
Carrying out work
After you have chosen a mixture for sealing joints, prepared tools (rubber spatula, drill, narrow and wide spatula), you can proceed to the sealing procedure. It consists of three stages, each of which is divided into sub-sections.
Preparatory work
In order for the new coating to keep well and for a long time, you first have to dismantle the old layer from the ceiling. It can be whitewash, paint or old putty. Next, embroider the seam using a drill with a special nozzle. In appearance, it should look like a shoulder blade.
Remove dry cement mortar from it using a narrow spatula. Remove dust and small material residues. Apply primer thoroughly and generously. Wait until it dries well. Thanks to the primer, you can achieve maximum adhesion of the putty to the surface.
On the video - sealing the seams on the ceiling between the plates:
main stage
This stage involves sealing the seam. You need to fill it with construction foam. If it is not there, then ready-made sealant, tow, gypsum plaster, the consistency of which resembles sour cream. When the foam has dried, then remove all parts protruding above the surface. Putty the sealed space with a pre-mix using a wide spatula.
Perform all work very carefully so that all voids are 100% filled. After that, apply a layer of primer again. total use and how to make right choice this information will help you understand.
Finishing
At this stage, the final layer of putty is applied. You will have to use a wide spatula. Wait a few hours for the composition to dry completely. It is best to do this at night. Walk along the seam with fine-grained sandpaper. This will eliminate all irregularities and roughness.
In the photo - how to properly apply the material to the ceiling seam:
You can strengthen the joints of the seam with a reinforcing mesh. But it is only necessary to carry out such actions before the start of the main stage. To do this, apply a thick layer of putty mixture to the edges. Press the mesh in there so that it is completely immersed in it. Wait for complete drying.
Remove all irregularities with fine-grained sandpaper. After that, you can proceed to the main stage of work. If you accurately performed all the steps, then the resulting seam will acquire reliability, strength and durability.
Sealing the seam between the tiles is an important process by which the ceiling will have a finished and attractive appearance. Its strength and durability are influenced by several factors, including the quality of the material used and installation features. In fact, to perform the work described above is within the power of a person who previously did not have the proper experience and skills. After a rough finish, it is necessary to lay the finishing material, for example,.
Most residents face the problem of cracks in inter-ceiling floors. apartment buildings, especially it concerns panel high-rise buildings. There may be several reasons for such a defect, these are shifts of the soil under the building, and shrinkage of walls in new buildings, and not the most best job builders, the use of low-quality building materials. In any case, such defects on the ceiling in the apartment do not add to the owners Have a good mood. Sooner or later, you have to solve the problem of how best to seal the inter-end seams between the floor slabs.
Modern technologies provide an opportunity once and for all to solve the situation with sealing defects in the joints between the ends of the floor slabs by installing a finish made of drywall sheets or stretch option. Such a way out is not always available, perhaps the height of the room does not allow, or financial position. In this case, you will have to deal with the repair and sealing of the overlapping ceilings on the ceiling.
Seam specifics
Consider the specifics of sealing seams:
- if the crack is narrow, but deep, it is better to direct your choice of materials on NTs cement, when it hardens, it expands and sticks tightly to the surface, it will not crumble out of the joints;
- if the cavities are too wide, sealing components are additionally used to seal them, for example, polyurethane foam, expanded polypropylene, etc.
Advice ! If you own an apartment in last floor Before you start sealing the ceiling seams, take an interest in the condition of the roof. Perhaps the repair needs to start with it, otherwise another rain will destroy all your efforts to eliminate the gaps between the ends of the floor slabs.
How to close the seam on the ceiling between floor slabs
When planning to seal cracks, it is worth stocking up necessary building materials and tools. It is better to give preference to high-quality materials that have specific characteristics that are most suitable for sealing cavities between floor slabs.
Required building materials:
- Cement grade NTs;
- Primer for deep processing and penetration;
- Elastic putty (can be latex);
- Foamed polyethylene or construction foam;
- Serpyanka not less than 20 cm;
- Putty for pre-treatment and final composition.
- Spatulas wide and narrow, brush, pulver, perforator.
The technology of sealing the cavities of the seams between the ends of the floor slabs
Starting to seal the seams, you will have to repair the entire ceiling. First, assess your strengths and capabilities. Ceiling repair is a rather laborious task. To prepare well for it, you need to clean the ceiling from the old coating, whitewash, crumbling plaster, peeling putty.
The old whitewash is washed off with water, first the ceiling is moistened with a spray bottle with water, preferably hot, after waiting about 15 minutes, the ceiling is cleaned with a spatula to the plaster from the old whitewash.
If the ceiling has traces of rust, it is treated with a special composition against rust. In places where the old putty lags behind the ceiling, it is necessary to clean it with a spatula. Then the seams are freed from residues old plaster, remove the remnants of cement mortar, debris, dust, if necessary, expand the seams with a perforator. The seam should ideally be U-shaped or expanded inside so that the putty can be better fixed. After expanding the seam, dust is removed from it with a brush, wiped with a sponge moistened with water.
Then it is necessary to evaluate the size of the resulting cavity in order to decide how to seal the ceiling joint between the laid floor slabs. Depending on its size, different materials for sealing. Shallow seams over 3 cm wide are moistened, then blown out with mounting foam. After the foam begins to harden, the excess is cut off with a knife, while it is necessary to make a triangular recess from the edges of the floor slabs to the center of the seam to a depth of 5-7 mm.
The gap is less than 3 cm wide, but deep, you must first treat it with a deep penetration primer, then dry it well. After the floor slab has dried, a moisture-resistant sealant is laid inside the recess and a sealant (polypropylene, polystyrene or other material) is sealed. Outside cover up cement mortar brand NTs, leaving a slight indentation inside the seam. Then it is necessary to wait for the complete drying of the cement mortar.
As a result of the operations performed, a joint filled with building foam or cement-based mortar with a recess in the center is obtained. An elastic putty is applied to this recess, latex can be used. To make it more convenient to apply putty, use two spatulas, wide and narrow. On a wide dial required amount putty, and then narrowly place it in the seam, achieving a good fit and smoothing. Then the surface is treated with a wide spatula, smoothed and excess putty is removed.
About a day must be kept for a good drying of the seams, then you can start puttying. To do this, use a preliminary putty, it is applied to the place, capturing the edges of the floor slabs adjacent to it. A sickle is applied on top of the putty layer, you can use a paint grid instead, press it into the putty to prevent cracking and crumbling of the putty after hardening.
To avoid unevenness, the surface is smoothed with a spatula. After the putty is completely dry, the surface of the seam is treated with an emery tape to remove the remaining irregularities. Then a preliminary putty is applied, which has a finer grain size, to the entire ceiling, it is convenient to do this using a wide spatula. After complete drying, the ceiling is polished with sandpaper. After processing, a smooth finishing putty is applied, this is the final stage of the repair. Repeat operations with drying and sanding with fine sandpaper. After removing all irregularities and roughness, the ceiling can be painted.
It happens that the floor slabs in the room have different height. In this case, it will be necessary after sealing the seams in order to achieve the effect of a smooth and beautiful ceiling, plaster it. To do this, it is better to use a paint grid. Previously, the ceiling is well treated with a primer, which will improve the setting of the mortar with concrete floor slabs due to special composition containing solid particles. A painting grid is applied to the layer of plaster, it is well smoothed over the surface of the floor slabs, then it is kept for 2-3 days so that the plaster dries well. After that, the ceiling is putty, as described above.
Pro Tips:
- foam when embedding deep cracks can be replaced with glue used for ceramic tiles;
- instead of a sickle (paint mesh), a bandage or a strip of gauze is useful. You can even use a thin cotton fabric, which is pre-wetted with water and steamed to shrink.
- can be used to seal small seams and cracks acrylic sealant. It is better to refuse silicone, as it turns yellow over time, and is also poorly painted over.
Important ! Before you start repairing the ceiling, accurately determine the location where the electrical wiring is located so as not to destroy the wire during the repair of cracks.
To delve into the features of ceiling repair, watch a video on sealing non-standard seams between ceiling tiles overlap.
How to seal the seams between OSB boards
If the ceiling was finished OSB boards, before staining, it is necessary to do preparatory work. To figure out how to seal the seams of the ends between the laid OSB slabs, you need to take into account the features of their coating. On their surface to increase moisture resistance applied special materials, impervious to water. When working with OSB boards, it is better not to use water-containing compositions so as not to cause swelling and warping of the surface. Sealant is suitable for sealing seams on acrylic base. Silicone sealant is poorly painted over, therefore, as a rule, they are not used to work with seams between OSB boards.
Residents of high-rise buildings are often concerned about the question of how to close the seams and gaps between the ceiling tiles on the balcony. To solve this problem, you must first figure out whether there is a through crack between the ends of the floor slabs of your balcony and the neighboring one or not. It is better to close the crack between the balconies on both sides, having previously agreed on this with a neighbor. For embedding, you need to choose moisture-resistant materials that can withstand seasonal temperature changes and are immune to ultraviolet radiation. For cracks in hard-to-reach suitable places sealing with mounting foam, before starting work, it is necessary to clean the gap from debris, prime it well, cement it after foaming so that the foam layer is isolated from external environment and again primed well. After the completed operations to seal the gaps, you can proceed to decorative work.
Waterproofing mastics are suitable for sealing and sealing seams on the balcony ceiling. The floor slabs must first be treated with a waterproofing primer so that they do not let water through. So you can get rid of leaks on the balcony in rainy weather.
In Russia, many people live in panel high-rise buildings. One of the frequent problems of such houses is the appearance of seams between the ceiling panels. They are formed as a result of shrinkage of the house. The panels begin to shift relative to each other and form gaps. Also, the cause of cracks may be a dry climate or sharp drops temperature. The mortar connecting the plates does not withstand such loads and cracks. Poor quality solution also affects the appearance of cracks.
Most easy solution problems - do false ceiling. But some people are categorically against such a solution, because it does not solve the problem, but only visually hides it. Therefore, many people prefer to repair the ceiling on their own with their own hands. This article will just be useful for them.
At the first appearance of cracks on the ceiling, you need to start acting. But for this you need to know the technology and purchase the tools and materials that will be required for repairs. You need to start by cleaning the old ceiling covering. Then clean all seams from the solution. Then you can start sealing the seams.
If the apartment is located on the uppermost floor under the roof and a gap has appeared in the ceiling, it is necessary to check the integrity of the roof from the outside. Because in the future this problem can lead to the fact that the ceiling will leak, and as a result, there will be a smell of dampness, mold and fungus.
If the problem is identified from the outside, it is necessary to cover the crack with a new sheet of roofing material. And only when the gap is hermetically sealed from the outside to prevent moisture from entering it, you can begin to close the gap from the inside.
In order to start repairing the ceiling, you need to stock up on the following tools:
- 3 types of spatulas: medium, narrow and wide;
- Drill or perforator;
- Sandpaper;
- Gun for applying sealant;
- Reinforcing mesh.
You will also need materials:
- Mounting foam or acrylic sealant;
- Cement mortar or primer;
- Putty.
In order for the work to be done not in vain, you should not save on materials.
Be sure to buy quality materials, which by their properties can withstand the maximum load and temperature changes. Repair technology involves complete cleaning seams from the old mortar and then repair it with high quality.
Preparatory stage
The first step is to prepare the ceiling for work. It consists of several stages:
- removal of the old layer of whitewash, putty, paint;
- expansion with a perforator or drill seam;
- removal of the old mortar from the seam;
- complete cleaning of the seam from all small debris;
- seam primer;
- drying primer.
Let's go over each point step by step. All paint must be removed from the ceiling. This procedure is performed using a spray gun. We spray the area we need and give time to soak the paint (whitewash). Approximately it takes 5-10 minutes. Then we take a wide spatula and scrape off the soaked layer of paint. Thus, we clean the entire ceiling.
Next, remove the solution from the gap. To do this, you need a perforator. Ideally, you can put on it a special nozzle in the form of a spatula. We work in shock mode without rotation. It is necessary to clean the seam at least to a depth of 5 cm. If the seam in the ceiling is not deep, you can expand it without using a perforator using a spatula.
Carefully remove all small pieces and irregularities with sandpaper. Next, we proceed to priming the gap. Be sure to qualitatively work out the space of the gap and around it for better adhesion of the solution and the plate. The primer must be dry.
The main stage of sealing the gap
The process of sealing an already prepared gap is the following order:
- filling the seam with construction foam;
- removal of excess foam;
- putty;
- primer.
If the seams are very wide, more than 5 cm, they must be filled with mounting foam. It fills the space perfectly. Excess foam is cut off with a knife. Next, gypsum plaster is used. She fills in all the remaining empty spaces. It is applied with narrow and wide spatulas.
The technology of applying plaster is such that it must not only be applied, but try to deepen it inside. Then level the mixture flush with the ceiling.
Instead of construction foam you can use building gypsum, which is diluted with PVA glue to liquid state. A very large drawback of this method is that it dries in a few minutes. Therefore, you will have to breed in small quantities and work very quickly. But this mixture dries quickly in the cracks.
You can also use tile adhesive. It is made from cement. This material is the most reliable. The secondary appearance of a crack in its place is practically excluded.
If you need to seal a deep and narrow joint, you need to take mounting foam and apply sealant to it on one side. And then it is filled with a spatula into the prepared joint. Then the joint is closed with expanding concrete. But you need to understand that the concrete will expand and you need to leave a place for it.
After the mortar has dried in the seam ditch, an elastic putty is applied to the joint with a wide spatula. The level of putty evens out the differences between the seam and the ceiling.
After sealing, it is necessary to reinforce the seam with a special reinforcing mesh. The mesh is placed 10 cm on the seam and the distance from it. Serpyanka is pressed into the solution. The remains of putty are removed with a spatula. Then leave to dry the ceiling for about 2 days.
The final stage of sealing the seam
- applying the last layer of putty;
- drying putty;
- sandpapering irregularities.
When the seam is closed, the final step is the use of abrasive mixtures.
If you use interlining, you can achieve a perfectly smooth ceiling surface. It must be glued to the ceiling before applying the final layer of putty.
Next, apply a putty with a wide spatula. Be sure to dry and then go to the primer. The primer is applied with a roller. Further, if desired, paint of any color can be applied to the ceiling using a spray gun.
Fixing a hole in the ceiling
During cleaning ceiling seams you can accidentally stumble upon a defect in the plate. will appear in front of you big hole. The process of eliminating such a defect is similar to sealing a crack.
The first stage will also be preparatory work. It is necessary to clean the hole from internal dirt inside and the nearest circumference of the ceiling from putty and paint. Next, the hole must be treated with a primer. After applying and drying the first layer, apply the second.
The next steps in the main stage of sealing a hole will depend directly on its size. The first method is suitable for holes of small and medium size.
Mounting foam is poured into the hole. When it dries and expands, the excess residue is cut off. Then a cone 4-5 cm deep is cut out in the hole. Cement mortar is poured into the resulting hole. With a spatula, level along the border of the ceiling and wait for complete drying. Further actions are performed, as in the sealing of conventional cracks. Putty is applied to the place of the closed hole and around it at a distance of 7-8 cm. A reinforcing mesh is attached to it, which is pressed into the solution. After the solution has completely dried, the mesh is puttied. Interlining is glued to the putty, then the finishing layer of putty is applied. Further, after complete drying of this layer, it is primed on top. If necessary, you can level with sandpaper, but usually when using interlining, this step becomes unnecessary. You can also paint further on the ceiling, if desired.
In cases where a hole has formed in the ceiling big size the void must be closed with a piece of plywood or laminate. It should be about 10 cm larger than the hole itself. Next, we attach a lattice to the hole, which can be built from wire. And close the hole with cement mortar. Thus, the wire will be a kind of reinforcement for the concrete size, which will give the reliability of the constructed structure. Stages of sealing a vast void in the ceiling:
- on the cut under the right dimensions a piece of plywood or laminate is laid out with a concrete solution. The requirements for the consistency of the solution are moderately thick and necessarily homogeneous.
The prepared structure is pressed against the hole and held for complete drying of the solution. Can be used as a holding device wooden support, ladder, or furniture cabinet.
When the solution dries, the steps to level the ceiling begin:
- putty;
- mesh reinforcement;
- putty;
- Primer;
- Sanding with sandpaper.
Doing everything step by step necessary actions, it is quite realistic to independently repair a crack in the ceiling of a panel house without the help of specialists.
Primer types
To do all the work better, it is also necessary to understand the materials used. AT construction stores wide selection primers, differing in manufactured firms, quality, type and form of use.
Let us analyze in more detail which primer is suitable for sealing cracks in the ceiling.
Primer types:
- Acrylic- used for surfaces such as concrete, wood, brick, cement, chipboard and fiberboard, fiberglass, plaster. This primer is ideal for priming cracks from the inside.
- Primer on water based - it is applied for final processing surfaces. In our case, this primer option is suitable for dilution water-based paint when finishing painting the ceiling.
- Alkyd primer- one of the most durable types. It is used in work with tiles, fiberglass, glass and galvanized steel.
- Mineral based primer- used when working with brick, concrete, gas silicate and expanded clay concrete blocks. It is made on the basis of lime, cement and gypsum.
Also, the primer is divided into types based on the purpose of its application:
- Primer paint- made of drying oils and resins, used for painting highly absorbent surfaces: wood, metal.
- Moisture resistant primer- used on surfaces that are subject to moisture penetration.
- Anti-corrosion primer- used on metal surfaces in order to protect against corrosion.
- Deep penetration primer- used in cases where it is necessary to strengthen the base, suitable in our case for sealing cracks. And also it penetrates deep into the material, so it is great for sealing holes.
- Primer with antiseptic properties- its composition includes special additives for the fight and prevention of mold and fungus.
- Quartz primer- used for decorative purposes, it contains sand, which, after application, creates an ideal beautiful rough layer on the surface.
The primer can be used in combination with various additives. For example, some mix it with PVA glue, this is just one of the ways to seal cracks in the ceiling. And also in the future add it to the paint and paint the ceiling. Based on this, the primer can still be classified as follows:
- under enamel;
- under water paints;
- universal;
- special.
Primers for enamel and water-based paints are used specifically before applying enamel or paint to them. Due to the special composition, the applied material adheres more reliably to the primer.
Universal primers are used for almost all ceilings and materials. With it, you can achieve a reliable and strong repair, and its universal consumption will help save money.
Special primers include:
- emulsion primers with acrylic copolymer. It is used when priming old loose surfaces.
- latex reinforcing primers are also good for old porous surfaces. It mixes well with cement. It is also used for further tiling.
AT residential buildings acrylic, mineral, water and alkyd primers are used, and other types are used for other purposes.
Mounting foam
After applying a layer of primer to the gap, experts recommend using mounting foam. Let's talk about its correct application. When sealing holes and cracks in the ceiling, people often face the following problem. The working position of the cylinder is upside down, and the tube is down. But in cases with a ceiling, this position is impossible, since the bottom of the cylinder rests on the ceiling. If you tilt the balloon slightly to a different position, the foam will not flow out.
In this case, there is a solution. It is necessary to lengthen the tube to such an extent that its edge can be raised above the day of the balloon. You can easily extend the tube using the tube from the second cylinder, connecting both tubes with tape or insulating tape.
When choosing mounting foam in stores, you may encounter some options, such as:
- one-component
- two-component.
Let's figure out which one to choose. One-component - the most common, it is much more convenient and easier to use. The appearance of foam in the form in which we need appears through contact with the air of the mixture inside the cylinder. Due to the pressure in the bottle and the property of the foam to increase, the foam perfectly fills all hard-to-reach places.
Two-component foam must be mixed in strict proportions a few minutes before use. It is poured into a special gun in which it is mixed. The advantage of this foam is that it hardens more quickly, even regardless of air humidity. And also, undoubtedly, the greatest yield can be attributed to the pluses.
But to seal a gap in the ceiling, it will be enough to buy one-component foam in a cylinder, this will save money and time.
When choosing mounting foam in the store, carefully examine the appearance of the cylinder. It should not have visible chips, damage, and also check the expiration date.
putty
After the gap is sealed with mounting foam, the joint must be puttied. To do this, let's look at which putty is suitable for our purposes. The best composition putty is considered a mixture of sand, lime, cement and gypsum, as well as special additives, based on the purpose of the future putty.
There are the following types:
- Universal
- Home
- Finishing
Universal- one of the most common, suitable for any stage of work. They are easy to use and quick to apply.
Starting- used for preparation working surface. In their composition, a special proportion of incoming materials was created so that with the help of such putties it was easy to level the work surface.
Finishing- make it easier to apply the finishing touches to the ceiling, provide a smoother surface.
Putty compositions have many options. But all of them can be divided into 2 types:
- based on sand and cement;
- lime based cement.
Putty based on sand and cement is just right for leveling cracks in the ceiling.
Putty on cement is used in rooms where high humidity.
You can also select putties according to the main binder material:
- based on gypsum
- based on cement
- based on mineral materials
Also, according to the dispersion of putties, there are:
- finely dispersed (with small particles up to 20 microns),
- medium dispersion (no more than 80 microns),
- coarse dispersion (more than 80 microns).
In the store you can find putty in ready-made diluted form, this will save you time. But if you want to save money, you can buy it dry.
When choosing a putty specifically for the ceiling, pay attention to:
- How viscous is the solution you buy.
- putty dispersion.
- The packaging should indicate the consumption per square meter.
- How much putty is resistant to temperature extremes.
Initial putties should be well compatible with concrete floor and primer.
- for sealing cracks and cracks;
- for decorative purposes;
- for a concrete base;
- for plastering surfaces;
- moisture resistant plaster;
- for drywall products.
Here your choice should depend on the activities that you plan to produce.
There are specialized putties:
- putty for emergency repairs, capable of expanding;
- putty for sealing joints between plasterboard ceilings;
- elastic mixtures with which you can ideally quickly repair cracks in the ceiling;
- putty for sealing joints in the ceiling.
tile adhesive
One option for sealing a gap in the ceiling was to use tile adhesive. There are 5 types of glue:
- For interior work
- Universal
- Water repellent
- For floor tiles
- Increased fixation
Tile adhesive for interior work is one of the most inexpensive, it is used in buildings where there are no sudden temperature changes.
Universal is suitable for work at temperature drops and different humidity. Use for internal and external works. But it does not have strong surface adhesion properties.
Moisture-repellent - used in buildings with high humidity. Can be used on ceilings with problem areas where leakage is potentially possible. Possesses good properties adhesion of the material.
Glue for tiled tiles- similar to ordinary glue, it fills all the empty spaces well, due to its liquid structure.
Glue of increased fixation has the property of good adhesion. This adhesive can be used even if old material residues have not been removed. Also suitable for ceilings where it is not possible to perfectly clean the seam or hole.
Summing up, we highlight helpful tips professionals:
- It is necessary to use in the work only high-quality materials that have the most better performance endurance and resilience.
- When applying a layer of plaster when leveling the seam with the ceiling, you should try to deepen it into the seam and only then level it into a common layer.
- When using interlining before the final layer of plaster, you can achieve a perfect smooth surface.
- When sealing a seam with mounting foam, glue is sometimes added for gluing ceramic tiles. It stays strong and connects well.
- For sealing narrow and shallow joints, it is recommended to use a simple construction putty.
- Be sure to dry each layer of liquid material until completely dry.
- The reinforcing mesh is used when the differences between the level of the plates are more than 1 cm. It is puttied and due to this it is achieved quality alignment to one height.
The seams in the ceiling panel houses is a daily problem that all residents of such houses face. But to eliminate such a defect on your own with your own hands is not difficult, knowing the methodology and using the advice of professionals.
Provide for their laying with seams of 15 mm, that is, almost end-to-end. The regulatory literature prescribes the installation of monolithic sections with reinforcement at a distance between the plates of 300 mm.
To seal the seams between the floor slabs, it is necessary to use concrete on quick-setting Portland cement or Portland cement grade M400 or higher on fine aggregate. The grain size of the filler should not be more than a third of the interslab gap and three quarters of the clear size between the reinforcing bars. AT concrete mix it is necessary to introduce plasticizers and setting accelerators.
If a standard seam between plates 10-15 mm wide is obtained, then usually a reinforcement bar is laid on the bottom of the seam, which is arranged in the form of a “cone”, and poured with a solution.
We seal off-design joints up to 300 mm
If the width of the seams between adjacent plates does not exceed 300 mm, it is relatively easy to close such a seam, to choose from - several ways to fill the seams.
Method 1
- From the bottom of the adjacent slabs, using spacers, we install a board or a sheet of plywood that bridges the gap - this is the formwork;
- A piece of roofing material or film can be laid on top of the formwork, then there will be no traces of concrete on the formwork, and it can be used further;
- The gap between the plates is filled with mortar;
- We are waiting for the concrete to gain strength within 3-4 weeks, we remove the formwork.
Method 2
If it is not possible to bring the formwork from below, you can do fixed formwork made of galvanized roofing steel with a thickness of 0.8-1 mm according to the size of the gap between the plates, with support on the upper face of the plate (trough). The profile of the side surface of the plates will provide additional spacer and rigidity to the monolithic section.
Method 3
Another way to seal seams fixed formwork – from steel strips with a thickness of 4 mm and a width of 5 cm, make mounting parts along the gap profile, as in the previous case, resting on the front surface of the slabs, lay these mounting parts every 0.5 m along the length of the slab. At the bottom (in the plane of the lower edge of the plates) we put a strip of galvanized roofing steel, plywood or plastic, concrete. This method provides a secure grip monolithic section with plates.
Method 4
If you come across a pair of defective slabs with the wrong location of the side locks, when the recess is at the bottom, they can be installed next to a gap of 2-3 cm. From below, bring the formwork according to method 1 and pour concrete through the provided gap.
Monolithic sections with a width of more than 300 mm
If the gap between the plates is from 100 to 300 mm, we perform a monolith with reinforcement. There are also options here.
Option 1
Used when formwork from below is not possible.
- We install load-bearing bars with a section of 40x100 mm on the edge, in increments of 1 m, resting on adjacent plates;
- We fasten the formwork panels to the load-bearing beams with wire twists;
- We close the formwork roofing material or film;
- Install reinforcing cage on glasses so that the reinforcement is 30 ... 50 mm higher than the formwork;
- We concrete.
Option 2
If it is possible to fix the formwork from below, it can be used for the device load-bearing structure fittings.
- We build formwork;
- We make mounting parts from reinforcement A1Ø8 ... 12 (depending on the width of the overlapped gap), taking into account that there must be a distance of at least 30 mm between the bottom of the formwork and the reinforcement;
- We lay protective material on the bottom of the formwork;
- We install mounting parts;
- We lay reinforcement or reinforcing cage;
- We concrete.
Do not settle for sealing the gap between the wall and the slab with lightweight concrete cellular blocks (foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, etc.) - they do not have the required bearing capacity. Taking into account the arrangement of furniture along the walls, this area of the floor has a large load, this will lead to the destruction of the blocks and the need for costly repairs to the floor.
The areas between the wall and the slab are sealed in the same way.
This story tells not only about the sealing of the seams, but also about the anchoring of the plates among themselves:
Ceiling seam from the underside
Intertile seams - rustication at installation is filled with concrete, then the ceiling is primed, puttied and painted, if no other finish is provided.
The sequence of sealing rusts
Before concreting seams are thoroughly cleaned of dust and grout residues wire brush , for better adhesion of the mortar to the slab, the side surfaces can be primed.
- The prepared fresh concrete solution is unloaded into a container and delivered to the place of work;
- With a small width of the rust, the filling is performed at a time, with a large width of the site - in several layers, but not more than after 2 ... 3 hours;
- A concreting section of a small width is bayoneted, with a large one it is compacted with a vibrator;
- The first week the surface of the monolith is moistened with water daily;
- After 28 days, the formwork is removed.
Uneven house shrinkage
It is unpleasant when cracks appear on the ceiling. This often happens due to:
- Uneven settlement of the building;
- Wrong brand of concrete;
- Poor quality concrete.
Let us dwell on the causes of uneven precipitation. It may occur if:
- Structural flaws - incorrectly designed foundation;
- Foundation arrangements without taking into account geology, the depth of soil freezing and the depth of groundwater;
- Poorly executed work on the construction of the foundation and masonry walls;
- Poor quality building materials.
To understand the cause of the appearance of cracks, it is sometimes necessary to order a construction expertise.
Decorative ceilings
A protective layer of concrete 30-50 mm thick should ensure that there are no rust stains on the ceiling from reinforcement, but sometimes this layer is ineffective. From seeing stains on the ceiling, traces of leaks and rust cracks the best remedy- the device of a suspended, hemmed or stretch ceiling.
Decorative ceiling - The best decision if necessary, leveling the ceiling surface. It will close all construction flaws and give completeness to the interior. If you want to reduce the height of the room, arrange multi-level or dropped ceilings from drywall, acoustic boards or combined from various materials.
In rooms of small height, hemmed or stretch ceilings are performed. Here is the champion stretch ceiling, which "eats" only 3-5 cm of the height of the room.
Every problem has its solution. Sealing between, even with a large width, does not constitute a big constructive or technical problem. From the proposed options, it is easy to choose the appropriate one for a particular case.
