How to close the gap between the logs. Ways to eliminate the gaps between the crowns of the log house. Option #4. sealing with acrylic sealant

"The ceiling is icy, the door is creaky,
Behind the rough wall, the darkness is prickly.
As you step over the threshold, frost is everywhere,
And from the windows the park is blue-blue.

Oh, I would not want to have such a bath! So that drafts do not fly through the cracks in the steam room - a log house is over insulated. The beam itself, from which the bath is assembled, cannot be insulated (except for additional wall insulation), but to close all the cracks from blowing, i.e. do sealing the interventional seams of the log house- even very possible. I would share the materials for insulation of interventional seams log house into 2 types: external - in contact with the street and internal - laid between the crowns. We will talk about interventional insulation. In this article, I will focus on the insulation-sealant of the joints, which is used outside the building. There are many reasons to consider this issue separately. Here are the most common aspects of the use of such sealing:

Sealant for the seams of the log cabin of the bath

1. From the leeward side, air pressure constantly acts on the walls of the beam, which is directed inside the log cabin of the bath. The pressure difference creates conditions for the penetration of cold air into the space between the timber. If the beam profile is selected with a large number of ridges, then the fit of the parts is so high that cold air has little chance of getting inside the log house. In some types of walls made of logs or profiled timber with two ridges, cold air is more likely to get into a warm steam room.

2. During slanting rains and side winds, water literally pours along the outer wall. With gusts of wind, such streams can seep into the bath. Such cases are especially common for timber, in which the height of the ridge is small and the shape of the lock is not provided with special drains. We talked about this in the article.

3. When building from raw timber, the timber almost always cracks and gets curvature along the longitudinal axis. This leads to the formation of additional gaps and cracks that are not provided for by our dream of a wooden frame. The size of the cracks is sometimes so impressive that even the birds cannot resist the temptation to tear out the insulation from the cracks and steal it to build their nest.

Wind, water and feathered builders will gradually make your log house windy and cold. This is where we turn to the sealant for help, which will not only block the access of sparrows to tow and jute, but also prevent water from entering the space between the log crowns.

Despite the fact that the site is dedicated to do-it-yourself bath construction technologies, for now we will omit the research “how to make a sealant with your own hands”. It's hard enough. Of course, there is a way to make the sealant yourself, but the first frosts and the sun will reduce your efforts to zero. It is difficult to produce synthetic materials at home!

Properties of sealants for sealing crowns and cracks

Many home-grown builders believe that wood putty, foam, or any plumbing sealant can be used to seal the wood structures of log cabins. You can, but you don't have to! We will live well, but not for long! What are the main properties that a sealing aggregate for the walls of a wooden bath or house should have?

1. The most important property: wood sealant should have high elasticity. which will not allow it to collapse during displacements and movements of wooden structures. Standard sealing means are designed for the invariability of the size of the holes that are insulated. Neither polyurethane mounting foam nor putty has this property and cannot provide sufficient tightness.

2. Silicone, plumbing polyurethane and other standard sealants do not have good adhesion to wood to provide a reliable adhesion patch to the surface of the wooden beam. In addition, due to the specificity of the raw materials for their production, many of these sealants are not allowed to be used for interior work.

3. The color of the sealant does not always play a decisive role in the choice of sealing material, but only specialized sealant pastes are made to match the color spectrum of the wood surface.

4. Frost - should not significantly reduce the plasticity of the joint sealant, and hot sun and temperature - should not give the sealant excessive fluidity. The heat resistance of the sealant is one of the main advantages of the insulation for sealing joints.

5. The container in which the sealant is located should play the role of a tool for applying it directly into the gaps and seams between the crowns. At the same time, excesses and sags should be easily removed without spoiling the appearance of the surface of the beam and the log house as a whole.

6. The total drying time of specialized sealants is long and amounts to 2-5 weeks. It is desirable that this period of time protect the applied sealant from the sun and water.

"Sealants" made from tow, jute fiber, moss and similar environmentally friendly products were good in the last century. They were available and not expensive. At the time of the kings, rubber, acrylic, etc. were not known.

After writing the article, I added it not only to the heading "", but also placed a link in the heading "protection of the log house", because sealing the interventional seams is protection against imperceptible rotting of wood in the cavity between the crowns (timber) and has the right to lie on the shelf with experience on

There is an opinion that Sealing the interventional seams of a log house with a sealant does not allow the log house to dry out well if it has already gained moisture. But the uniqueness of wood lies in the fact that it dries 90% through the ends. End processing is a separate topic for conversation.

A wooden house is a safe and environmentally friendly housing with a special cozy atmosphere. Wood perfectly retains heat, fills the house with a pleasant forest aroma, and is distinguished by high strength and durability. This is an aesthetic and attractive material that will harmoniously fit into the landscape and allow you to create any design.

However, the tree has a number of disadvantages, including susceptibility to the negative effects of moisture, torsion and drying out, shrinkage. As a result, gaps appear on the log and on the beam, as well as between the materials.

Cracks and crevices in a wooden house

In the process of shrinkage of the house and due to strong temperature changes, lack of proper insulation and waterproofing, cracks appear on wooden materials and between them. To avoid this, it is important to carry out wood processing even during construction.

The log and timber are covered with antiseptics after the manufacture of lumber, during the assembly of the log house and during the final finishing work. In the future, a wooden house also requires care. Protective treatment is carried out every 3-6 years, depending on the type and quality of antiseptics.

In this case, it is very important to carry out competent and reliable insulation of a wooden house, as it protects the beam and log from severe cracking. In addition, you need to choose products with good drying.

The masters of the construction company "MariSrub" independently produce beams and logs, carefully monitor each stage of production. We use safe and high-quality chamber drying, which prevents wood from cracking. Be sure to process lumber with protective compounds!

If gaps and cracks appear, defects must be eliminated. They reduce the thermal insulation properties of the house, as a result, the walls or floor will be blown through, drafts will appear in the room. In addition, cracks greatly spoil the aesthetic appearance of the house. In the future, the gaps grow and exacerbate these problems, negatively affect the condition of the lumber. Therefore, it is important to correct defects in time and correctly.

Types of slots

Longitudinal cracks and cracks form on a beam or log, since the tree has a fibrous structure. But in rare cases, longitudinal defects are also formed due to overload or decay of the wood. With this problem, the affected areas need to be replaced. Longitudinal gaps can be eliminated independently using easy methods.

Longitudinal cracks in structure and direction are of the following types:

• Straight lines coincide with the axis of the log or beam;
• Spiral or uneven do not align with the axis;
• Segmental - uneven defects with a fiber transition.

Cracks and cracks can be sealed with mounting foam, tow and moss, putty or sealant, home-made compounds, regardless of the type of defect. Note that it is better not to use mounting foam and silicone for a wooden house, since synthetic products violate the environmental friendliness and safety of wood. After such processing, the log or beam will not be able to “breathe”. In addition, such compounds often emit a harmful toxic odor. Let's take a closer look at how and how to close the cracks in a wooden house.

How to close gaps with caulk

Caulking effectively insulates the house and closes the gaps formed, reliably closing the access of cold to the room. Moss and tow are traditional materials for warming a wooden house and for sealing cracks, which are distinguished by environmental friendliness and safety. They will not violate the naturalness of wood and the aesthetics of the structure.

Before use, they take wet moss and dry it completely, and then soak it in water half an hour before starting work. Then the water is drained, the moss is squeezed out and rolled into rollers. The rollers are laid in interventional joints, crevices and cracks, compacted with a hammer or mallet and left to dry for three days. After drying, the excess material is trimmed.

Instead of moss, you can use tow or jute fiber, which is placed in joints and crevices. Tow, if desired, is poured with gypsum or cement, or left in its pure form. The quality of the caulk can be checked with a nail, knife or sharp awl. The product is stuck between logs or timber. It shouldn't go right through! Read more about the caulking of a wooden house.

How to seal cracks with sealant

Eliminating gaps and cracks by sealing is the most common method due to the availability and ease of installation. Sealants firmly connect the walls of the tree gap. To prevent the product from getting on the surface of the wood, glue the edges of the gap with masking tape. Then, a bundle of tow or jute or a fabric for sealing is laid in the slots and interventional joints. And already a sealant is applied on top with a spatula or a gun.

When applying sealant, seams, joints and cracks are not completely filled to the brim. The composition is applied so that it touches at two points of the tree and connects two opposite edges. The sealant is left for at least six hours, and after hardening, the sealed gaps are painted over to obtain a more aesthetic appearance.

If the product still gets on the clean surface of a log or timber during work, after drying, remove it with fine sandpaper. Masters of the company "MariSrub" qualitatively and quickly seal the wooden house, which provides reliable hydro and thermal insulation, and also prevents the wood from drying out and the appearance of cracks or crevices.

The most optimal tool for a wooden house will be acrylic sealant. It is eco-friendly and safe, odorless. It is not afraid of temperature changes and dampness, securely fastens the walls of wood and eliminates cracks or crevices. Silicone sealant cannot be used for a wooden house due to its harmful composition. In addition, such material cannot be painted, and it will spoil the appearance of the tree. The most popular are brands such as Russian-made Neomid and Eurotex.

How to putty cracks

You can repair defects with ready-made putty for wood, which is distinguished by resistance to cold and dampness. It dries quickly and lasts a long time. For minor cracks, choose a thick, water-based cleaner as it bonds well to the wood. For deep defects - liquid formulations containing solvents. Today you will find a wide selection of putty.

Acrylic - the safest, odorless and colorless, which is suitable for cracks up to 2 mm deep. It retains the natural texture and tone of the wood, is easy to apply and dries quickly. Acrylic putty levels the surface and does not allow moisture to pass through. Gypsum composition is also used for interior work. It is a plastic material with easy application. It maintains a comfortable microclimate and is absolutely safe for a wooden house.

Waterproof putty is suitable for sealing cracks outside the log house, as it is highly resistant to moisture and dampness, to precipitation and temperature extremes. The composition is made in the form of a paste based on glue, oils or polymers. The polymer agent masks cracks, seams, joints and is suitable for finishing. Adhesive putty is easy to apply to wood and is highly durable. And the oil base is used when they plan to further coat the wood with oil, paint or varnish.

If deep cracks and chips appear in a wooden house, choose a non-shrink putty. This is a high-quality, reliable, strong and durable composition, which is perfect for a log house. You can easily match the color of the product to the color of the tree. The most popular are putty firms Tikkurila, Eurotex and Extra.

Other ways to seal gaps

• You can not buy putty, but make putty yourself. To do this, mix PVA glue and sawdust to a thick state and use a spatula to fill the gaps with the mixture;
• To close wide gaps, use a chip of the same length as the defect. The piece of wood is sharpened with a wedge and the crack is clogged, fixed from above with putty or home-made putty;
• Arbogypsum is another tool that is used to seal cracks in a wooden house. It contains dry gypsum and crushed bark or sawdust in a ratio of 1:3. It turns out a strong and reliable composition, which is diluted with water in the amount of half of the taken gypsum. The elastic and dense mass is stirred until homogeneous and dissolution of lumps. For greater plasticity and elasticity, you can add a little shampoo to the product. Seal the cracks with a freshly prepared mixture, as it quickly hardens.

Whichever method you choose, before work, you need to thoroughly clean the timber or log walls, as well as clean the cracks from debris and dust. It is better to repair defects in positive temperatures, in dry weather and on dry wood. After caulking with moss, the walls are left to dry for three days, when working with other materials - for at least six hours.

Sooner or later, cracks appear in the logs (or beams) of a bath house. This is a natural process and cannot be completely prevented. And is it necessary? Small tears in the wood fabric do not have any effect on the performance properties of the structure. Therefore, some owners of log cabins refer to the grid of cracks on the logs as a decorative element. But carelessness is not always good. If the defect exceeds 3-5 mm in width, and spreads in length over the entire surface of the log, you need to expect trouble. Atmospheric moisture will get into the crack, and this is fraught with decay of the wood. Also, in secluded woody corners, bark beetles like to settle down, feeding on wood and able to “undermine” the most durable frame with their jaws.

It is necessary, if possible, to prevent the appearance of deep cracks in the logs. If they did appear, then learn how to close them.

Why do cracks appear on a log?

Most of the cracks in the logs are formed in the first year of shrinkage. Why? It's simple: during this period, the log house shrinks, the logs dry out. It happens unevenly. The outer layers of wood always dry faster than the inner ones. Outside, the log is already almost dry, and in the center - moisture remains. The difference in humidity leads to a difference in the stresses acting on the fibers. Tensile stresses begin to act on the surface layers, and compressive stresses begin to act on the inner layers. Such a dissonance causes breaks in the fibers in the surface layers, that is, cracks appear.

The faster the surface of the logs dries, the greater the difference in the resulting stresses. At the same time, the tree cracks more actively, forming wide and deep cracks.

Preventive measures

Method #1. Long natural drying

The best prevention is a long natural drying of logs before laying them in a log house. The more evenly, throughout the entire thickness of the fibers, the logs dry, the less likely it is to crack. The drying rate in the inner and outer layers should be approximately the same. Then moisture from the inner layers will pass into the outer ones, and they, in turn, will evaporate it into the environment.

Such a balance can be maintained if the duration of drying is at least two years. Dry the logs in a shady, dry and cool place. As a result, the moisture content of the wood should decrease to 18-20%.

For comparison: when drying logs for one year, the width of the resulting cracks is no more than 6-10 mm, for two years - no more than 1-2 mm. If the logs have been dried for less than a year, then the width of the cracks can exceed 10-20 mm.

Method #2. Compensation cut

A cut in the upper or lower part of the log (beam) helps to reduce stress in the wood fibers. Such a cut is called compensatory or unloading. It is performed along the axis of the log, more often on the upper surface. Some masters cut along the entire surface, while others do not bring the groove to the ends.

In a log house, the cut is blocked from above by a lying log, so moisture does not get into it. During shrinkage, the kerf expands. But, at the same time, the number of natural cracks formed is reduced, their depth and width are reduced.

The saw cut is a smooth groove 7-10 mm thick, 1/3-1/4 deep from the log diameter. You can make a cut using a chainsaw, milling cutter or on a rounding machine.

Method #3. Sealing the ends of logs

The ends of the logs (saw cuts) dry out several times faster than the rest of the outer surface. Therefore, with intensive shrinkage, the ends are the first to become covered with cracks. To prevent this process, you need to close the exit of moisture through the ends. That is to cover them with sealant. Then the ends will stop quickly evaporating moisture. It will go into the outer layers of the log and from there it will evaporate, but already evenly.

To cover the ends, you can use drying oil, oil paint, oil varnish, wax solutions. Previously, for sealing, the ends were smeared with lime.

The need to protect the ends of the logs is discussed in the following video:

Methods for sealing cracks in log cabins

Preventive measures help to reduce the number of cracks that occur. It is impossible to completely get rid of their appearance. But to hide their presence, as well as to prevent putrefactive processes in their thickness, is quite realistic. To do this, cracks are sealed using various materials - dry mixes, hardening putties, sealants. Consider the most successful termination options.

Option 1. Putty from sawdust and PVA

Cracks can be filled with homemade putty made from a mixture of PVA and sawdust (or tyrsa). The components are mixed to the putty condition and the gap is filled with the resulting mixture. You can act with a spatula, pushing the putty deep into the crack.

After hardening, the putty may slightly “fall off”. The resulting free groove is sealed again using the same adhesive mixture or wood putty.

Option #2. Chip driving

A deep and wide crack can be covered with a chip sharpened with a wedge. The length of the chip is equal to the length of the crack.

The chip is hammered into the crack with force, it is desirable to apply a layer of PVA on the chip wedge for fastening. Putty or a mixture of PVA with sawdust is applied over the chips.

Option #3. Filling with putty on wood

Only small cracks are sealed with acrylic putty, with a width and depth of not more than 3 mm. If the crack is larger, then the acrylic putty in it will begin to crack after hardening. And after a short time - will fall out.

Wood putties are sold in the form of ready-made plastic compositions, initially painted to match the color of a particular type of wood. They dry quickly, are water and frost resistant, durable. When sealing such a putty, it is convenient to use a rubber spatula.

Option #4. sealing with acrylic sealant

Acrylic sealants in syringes are also well suited for joining wood gap walls. But it is impossible to completely fill a deep crack with them. The maximum sealant layer is 5 mm.

If the depth of the crack exceeds 5 mm, do the following: a polyethylene bundle is laid deep (for example, Isonel), and a sealant is applied on top of it. Polyethylene does not adhere to the sealant, allows it to work well in tension and create an elastic bonding tape.

Option #5. Plastering with arbogypsum

A durable and reliable crack filler can be made from arbogypsum. Arbogypsum is an aqueous solution of gypsum (alabaster) with sawdust, tyrsa, crushed bark, straw chopping. Most often, sawdust is used as a filler.

Arbogypsum is kneaded as follows: sawdust is added to dry gypsum, the mixture is mixed with water. For a more plastic composition, a few drops of shampoo are added to the water. The ratio of gypsum to sawdust is 1:3. The ratio of gypsum to the amount of water is 2:1.

After kneading, a dense, plastic mass should be obtained. It is important to mix it well to avoid lumps. The mixture hardens very quickly, so it should be used immediately after kneading. Put arbogypsum into the cracks with a spatula, leave it to dry completely. The “filling” of arbogypsum is very strong and durable. It securely adheres to wood, does not fall out during operation.

Option #6. moss caulking

In villages, large cracks are preferred to be covered with moss. Such caulking does not spoil the appearance of the log house and eliminates cold bridges that can form in the log house at the site of a deep crack. If dry moss is used for caulking, then it must first be soaked in water. To do this, put the moss in a bucket, basin or other container and fill it with water for 30 minutes. After that, the water is drained, the moss is squeezed out.

From the finished softened moss, rollers are rolled up and pushed into the cracks with a wooden spatula - “caulking”. The moss layer is compacted by tapping on the shoulder blade with a mallet or hammer. The moss is compacted until the layer becomes springy.

Moss finally dries out in 2-3 days. During this time, it "unfolds", increases in volume up to 20% and reliably clogs all the cracks. After drying, the moss excess protruding from the cracks is cut with a petal circle.

All considered options for sealing cracks are suitable for both external and internal walls of the log house. They are harmless to wood, restore the strength characteristics of the log house, and eliminate cold bridges.

What to do if there are cracks in the logs, timber or block house? What are the materials for their termination and how to use them correctly? Is it possible to do it yourself? You will find answers to these and many other questions, as well as professional advice, in this article.

A hundred years ago, a log house was the most popular option for housing construction. In our forest-rich area, towers and huts have been built from time immemorial with the help of an ax and a saw, shifting hand-hewn logs with moss. Masters reached perfection in working with wood, but rapid progress gave people new materials, made it possible to calibrate timber and cylinder logs. Today, houses made of timber or logs are “environmentally friendly antiquity”, accessible to the majority. However, the tree remained a tree, and the problems that the owners faced hundreds of years ago are still relevant today. Only the ways to solve them have changed. This will be discussed.

Interesting fact. What is the difference between a tower and a hut? The hut has only one floor. Everything that had more than one floor was called a tower.

Longitudinal cracks in wood

What you should know in advance when choosing a wooden house:

1. With all the natural advantages, the tree retains natural disadvantages - hygroscopicity, susceptibility to decomposition, oxidation of the outer layer, torsion, drying out, shrinkage, etc.
2. For all the cases listed above, there are modern "antidotes".
3. The log house requires constant care during operation. Different works are carried out with different intervals (1/3/5/10 seasons).
4. A house made of logs or timber will retain enough heat only in mild winters (up to -15 with normal humidity). For living in a colder period, insulation or enhanced heating will be required.
5. The tree is afraid of wind, moisture and sun. Therefore, the ideal place for a wooden house is the natural environment (woodland).
6. Wood has the highest fire hazard of all building materials (for walls).

Read more about the construction of log houses in the articles: “Choosing a log house for a wooden house”, “Do you want a good house? Choose: timber or log "," How to build the house of your dreams - glued laminated timber, material features ".

So, all the nuances are taken into account, the house is built or bought, and we are ready to deal with all the problems, bringing the appearance and performance to perfection.

Due to the fibrous structure, a log or timber has defects that propagate longitudinally. A transverse crack or dent occurs extremely rarely in the event of overload or rotting of the material. The log in such cases is not subject to repair, but to full or partial replacement.

Longitudinal cracks by location in the structure (direction) are divided into:

1. Direct. Approximately coincide with the axis of the log (beam).
2. Spiral (uneven). Does not match axis.
3. Segment. Irregular cracks with fiber transition.

In all cases, one selected method is used. As a rule, this is warming and subsequent sealing of the sinus. This combined method is the simplest and most affordable to date. It is suitable for cracks with an opening width of 5 mm. Smaller defects are sealed with a special sealant. The described method is perfect for a block house.

Question. Why not seal all the cracks with only sealant?

Answer. It will be very expensive due to the high consumption of sealant. At the same time, its thermal insulation properties are an order of magnitude lower than the insulation.

What you need:

1. Heat-insulating filler. It can be a special thermal harness or just a strip of foam rubber.
2. Sealant, professional gun.
3. Knives, metal scrapers.
4. Hand sprayer with water.
5. Pieces of foam rubber, rags.

Attention! Before starting work, make sure that the wall material is dry (normal humidity). Treat the internal cavities with an antiseptic.

Operating procedure:

1. We clean the edges of the crack from sawdust, loose wood, wood chips.

2. We fill the cavity with a thermal harness (foam rubber). Outside, ½-¼ cracks remain for laying the sealant.

Attention! If you are using foam rubber, do not tamp it hard. Any insulation in a compressed state loses its properties. The thermal harness is not subject to crushing.

3. We put the sealant in the bosom.

4. Smooth the sealant along the edges with a foam brush so that a continuous smooth surface is obtained. For the best effect, you can soak the sealant with water from a spray bottle.

Attention! Don't do it with your finger. The quality will be low, but the risk of getting a splinter will be high.

5. We remove the remnants of the sealant from the surface with a rag.

6. The exposure time for further processing is indicated in the instructions.

The choice of sealant is the most critical part of this work, if you do it yourself or the “good craftsman problem” is solved. An experienced specialist will advise the appropriate option. Most of these products are universal - suitable for any type of work. "Internal" sealants, as a rule, differ slightly in price from "external". The firms producing them have an assortment of related products - thermal harness, felt.

Sealants for cracks and joints of logs and timber:

* - consumption is indicated per 1 meter of a running joint 10 mm wide and 5 mm deep (0.5 cm 2)

Question. And yet, what is the difference between a thermal harness and a simple foam rubber?

Answer. Condensation can accumulate in the pores of the foam rubber and eventually destroy the material.

Thermal harnesses are made of polyethylene, are universal and can be used with any sealant. Energoflex sealing cords are the most convenient and popular type of this material. It is produced by different companies, but the name "Energoflex" is used by almost everyone.

Sealing cords (bundles):

In houses made of long timber or logs, in addition to natural cracks in solid wood, horizontal gaps appear at the junctions of elements. Even if the initial laying is done with high quality, it still happens due to natural reasons - the shrinkage of the tree. Measures to prevent problems associated with this phenomenon are taken depending on the material itself.

Slots at the junction of the calibrated timber

Here it is reasonable to mention the main advantage of a calibrated beam over a log. The presence of a tongue-and-groove system on the longitudinal edges of the beam reduces to zero the possibility of through passage of air. However, opening the joint even to a shallow depth allows cold air to pass inside the wall in winter, which contributes to the formation of condensate (cold bridge). Humidified air penetrates there in spring and autumn. The tree takes in moisture, and the processes of oxidation and decay can begin.

The modern method of blocking the joints of wooden log cabins looks the same as for slots. In this case, the same materials are used - sealant and Energoflex cord. Sealing materials for log cabins from different companies are usually labeled with the name "Warm Seam".

Cracks at the junction of logs

With a log, the situation is somewhat more complicated than with a bar. Here, in the case of severe shrinkage, through passages of air can occur. Typically, this problem occurs in homes that have not received prophylaxis at the right time. The log dries out, cold moist air enters through the expanded joint, the cushioning material (felt, moss, tow, jute) is destroyed and weathered. In this case, the load from the crowns in this place is unevenly distributed, which can lead to distortions.

In order to correct the situation, you need to caulk the joint.

Caulking is a dry method of filling joints between wood elements. This procedure came to us unchanged after thousands of years: a rope or tow hammered into a gap became a stronghold of navigation and wooden housing construction. Previously, for sealing, the material was impregnated with a hydrophobic composition - tar, resin and oils.

When insulating the seams, the caulked material is sealed on top with a sealed layer that does not conduct moisture. Therefore, there is no need for its additional hydrophobization.

What you need:

1. Spatula with hammer protection.
2. Hammer 500-800 g.
3. Jute, felt, tow.
4. Masking tape (optional).
5. Further - points from the description of crack sealing (except for the first one).

Operating procedure:

1. Using a spatula, the material is driven into the joint to a state of elasticity.
2. If desired, the edges of the joint are pasted over with masking tape.

Attention! In no case should not caulk cracks. This will lead to an increase in stress and crack propagation. Only light compaction is allowed.

The described sealing materials have a coefficient of (gradual) stretching up to 4. This allows the tree to "live" and at the same time does not depressurize joints and cracks. They are made on the basis of acrylic, non-toxic and subject to all types of processing - tinting, grinding, painting. The service life of sealants is usually from 20 years.

To build a log house, you need to take into account many issues related to its construction. One of them, no less significant and important, is how and how to close the gaps between the logs in order to protect the house from the effects of natural factors. There are many options for caulking the inter-log space. Which one you choose will determine the rest of your life in your new home.

How to close the gaps between the logs - natural materials

You will receive the most correct and practical advice from an experienced craftsman or a person who built the house himself.

So, many experienced experts come to the conclusion that sphagnum moss is one of the most effective and reliable materials for sealing gaps.

It is taken from the outskirts of the swamps still wet and stuffed between the crown joints. This type of moss is very light and supple.

The quality of the caulking of the walls is determined by a sharp awl, which is stuck between the caulked logs. If it enters the gap heavily, like wood, then the caulk is made to last.

Another environmentally friendly way to eliminate gaps is to use tow, filled with cement or gypsum, as well as acceptable and dense tamping of clean material without any impurities.

An alternative material for caulking is jute fiber or hemp fiber (hemp), which differs from tow in that the former is made from flax, and the latter is obtained from hemp.

Our great-grandfathers used these materials. They are relevant today. It's hard to say which is better than tow or moss. If the caulk is made with high quality, any material is good. But if you want to change the layout with a chainsaw, a problem will arise: tow or hemp can pretty much clog and dull it.

How to close gaps between logs - modern materials

In addition to environmentally friendly materials that nature supplies us, there are modern synthetic materials offered by domestic and foreign industries. As for the environment, of course, one can argue, but the reliability of the manufacturer is guaranteed.

• Silicone sealant

One such material is silicone sealant. Since wood tends to absorb moisture and evaporate it, this method of sealing is doubtful, because evaporation under the sealant layer will not take place, which will sooner or later lead to the formation of rot.

• Polyurethane sealant

There are many special sealants based on polyurethane. It is not susceptible to temperature changes, resistant to ultraviolet rays. Putty based on it is quite suitable for sealing the seams of the crowns of the house.

Do not use polyurethane sealants that are sold in cylinders for grouting joints - they are not designed for direct exposure to sunlight!

As you know, a house made of wood "breathes". The processes of heating and cooling, absorption and evaporation of moisture cause the logs to move slightly. This means that the mounting foam will not last long, after a while it will crack and crumble. Therefore, for sealing seams, use more elastic materials.

How to make a caulk - competent laying between logs

Before grouting, consider what material will be under the grout. Covering gaps with sealants is impractical and expensive, as they can be very deep and number in the tens.

So, calculate what is more profitable: the filler on what basis, industrial or natural.

We have already discussed natural, and as for synthetic, many experts come to the conclusion: use a foam polymer cord, which is commercially available in different diameters, which is very convenient when fitting to gaps.

So, when the slots are as tightly clogged as possible, we cover them with sealant. To do this, we stick adhesive tape along the length of the log to avoid contamination with putty. As a spatula, we use a rubber spatula designed for seams. And the flashings will help to completely close the joints. They will even enhance the overall style of your log house.