Sealing of interpanel seams is one of the most important construction operations, because it is the joints that represent the most weakness. In addition, over time, defects may appear in them, and then, at the request of the residents and the housing maintenance organization, re-processing is carried out.
Why process seams in a panel house?
Sealing of interpanel seams is a process of filling the voids formed between the slabs. If this procedure is ignored, then moisture will penetrate through the cracks, cold air, condensation will form. By eliminating such defects, you will not only insulate the room, but will not allow dampness and mold to get into the housing. And the latter is very harmful to our health. In addition, peeling of wallpaper, blackening of walls and other troubles are possible, so that the aesthetic side will also suffer.
Sealing is done not only at the construction stage, it is necessary to periodically restore the seams.
What are the causes of depressurization? First of all, errors in the design and construction itself. In addition, it is very important to choose the right materials. For example, a combination of seals with varying degrees elasticity will not give the desired result. If you decide to use special self-adhesive tapes, then you should not give tension, it is better when they sag a little. Plus, an additional adhesive sublayer should be applied from below. This will keep stresses inside the sealing material to a minimum.
Foam, mastic, tape - we study a variety of materials
To date, there are many sealants for interpanel seams, and they have different kind. Special mastics, silicones and are very popular. The choice of one or another material depends on the width of the cavity. If the seam is narrow, then silicones should be preferred, but wider and deeper recesses are processed mounting foam. It is best to use a non-expanding one, otherwise you will have to cut off the protruding parts. And this is already extra labor costs, and it is not always easy to take such a step, especially when it comes to outdoor work on the upper floors.
In addition, the foam is afraid ultraviolet rays, therefore, it must be closed, while the finishing layer must be in the same plane with the plates, that is, the frozen composition will need to be cut out with a slight indentation. The use of expanding material is allowed only when working with very large seams. It is applied in two layers.
Special sealing tapes have also found their use. It is advisable to use them even at the construction stage. The technology is simple - a strip of sealant is laid at the junction of concrete elements, and under the pressure of the upper part, the material is pressed and the connection is reliable. Now you can not be afraid of drafts, precipitation, or other vagaries of the weather.
Features of sealing technology
Secondary sealing technology differs depending on the condition of the seams. If they do not have significant defects and the mastic has retained its properties, then it is quite enough to simply replace the outer layer. But when the joint is badly damaged, then all old materials should be completely removed and replaced with new ones.
Carrying out such work, you should follow some rules. In the event of defects in horizontal joints, seams of at least three vertical rows are subject to sealant treatment. If the integrity of the vertical seam of the longitudinal facade in the house is broken, then everything will have to be repaired vertical cracks and adjacent horizontal ones. And when it is necessary to carry out restoration work on the end side, do not forget about all the joints between the longitudinal walls and end panels, as well as the entire facade.
In addition, the mastic must be sufficiently plastic, because interpanel seams in the house can change their dimensions somewhat due to shrinkage, concrete creep, thermal expansion, or under the influence of various loads. If the material is too hard, depressurization will occur and restoration work will have to be carried out again. Also, the mastic should be laid in a layer at least 2 times thinner than the joint, at least for gaps with a mouth of more than 1 cm.
We close the seams in the house on our own
Now it's time to study the technology of sealing interpanel seams. Let's try to draw up instructions that are understandable even for "dummies", although it should be noted that professionals should be engaged in such work. First, they have special equipment to work at height. Secondly, both our comfort and savings depend on quality, since the room will produce less heat in winter, and even health, because the negative effect of fungi and mold on the human body has long been proven.
How to seal the seams in the house on your own - a step by step diagram
Step 1: Preparation
In order for the sealing of interpanel seams to be as productive as possible, you should prepare the entire necessary inventory. We need a metal brush, spatula, vacuum cleaner, sponge, spatula, broom. From the material you need to purchase the sealant itself, insulation, foam, sand and cement. Next, it is very important to prepare the room. All furniture, if we are talking about a residential building, or other items are taken out so that the room is empty. Then the old coating should be removed from the walls, so we will free access to the seams.
After removing large elements, we clean the room from dust, in this case a vacuum cleaner is useful. Carefully go through all the joints. If we are talking about secondary sealing of panel seams, then we remove from them and old material. After that, do not forget to carry out wet cleaning, otherwise dust from the air will settle in the most inappropriate places and this will negatively affect the quality of work. Then we wait until the treated surface dries, and then degrease it with a special tool.
Step 2: Warming
The key to success is high-quality insulation cavities. If the seams are large enough, then they are first filled with mounting foam. Until it has had time to completely harden, a layer of thermal insulation is laid, which most often looks like a very dense hollow tube. Due to the excellent elasticity, installation problems will not arise.
There is another sealing scheme, " warm seam". In this case, the insulation is laid first and only then it foams. Thanks to this combination, the cavities are reliably filled, and drafts, and even more so moisture, have no chance of penetrating into the room. If you suddenly purchased the wrong foam or applied too much of it, then the excess should be removed.In this case, the gap should be such that more mastic and topcoat fit into it.
To protect the seam from negative impact environment, if we are talking about outdoor work, it is necessary to process it additionally cement-sand mortar. But only after the mastic has completely solidified. Inside the premises, the walls are usually plastered, and a special mesh is applied to the joints. Moreover, it is better not to save on the latter, otherwise cracks form on the plaster. In principle, the sealing of interpanel joints is carried out in approximately the same way when using any of the materials. However, do not forget to read the instructions on the package, you can also find a lot of useful information.
If you are a resident last floor in apartment building, then this task will become somewhat more complicated for you. You will certainly need to check the roof for integrity, otherwise, there is a high risk of flooding.
Where to start if the apartment is on the top floor?
Let's start our article with the most difficult and expensive option.
So, if your apartment is located directly under the roof, then before you start filling gaps inside, it would be nice to see what is happening on the roof.
This is very important, because if the seams appear, then it may very well be that outside there is some damage. And if these “holes” are not patched up, then your putty will last exactly until the first good rain.
Fortunately, most high-rise buildings have soft roof covered with ruberoid. It is quite inexpensive, therefore, it is better to spend it once, but do everything for sure.
Of course, you are unlikely to manage here on your own. Not even because of the laboriousness, but because special heating tools are needed for laying the roofing material. And where do they come from a simple, albeit very hospitable person?
You don't need a lot of material. Place the sheets where you can definitely see that the coating has worn and cracked.
And after you solve the main problem from above, you can take on repairs inside the apartment.
What materials and tools should be purchased?
To seal the seams, you do not need to buy something very expensive. It will be quite enough what is usually on the farm:
- A conventional spray gun to moisten the ceiling and soften the old putty
- Primer brushes
- Construction knife for cutting dried foam
- Metal brush for thorough cleaning of the gap from the remnants of the old filler
- Good, comfortable spatula for finish coat putty
- A couple of cylinders of mounting foam (if the gaps are more than 2 cm, and they are usually smaller and never happen)
- A little primer for cement (it will provide good adhesion of materials)
- A coil of reinforcing mesh (choose the width depending on the size of the seam, so that it goes beyond it by about 5 millimeters)
- Putties start and finish
Here, in general, and the entire inventory.
And now let's look at step by step how to close the gap with your own hands.
Where do you start filling gaps?
First of all, you need to thoroughly clean the surface. Even if the gap is very small in appearance, the ceiling next to it must be very well cleaned with a spatula. Most likely, as you remove the putty layer, you will see the actual size of the gap, which may not be small at all.
You need to completely empty the gap from old, dried up mortar. When building a house, the cracks are filled with ordinary cement, but over time it loses its strength: rains, temperature changes, again shrinkage ... It is advisable not to leave a single extra pebble and piece of cement, since then it will not let you “grab” well new material.
After you cope with this work, we move on to another stage, also preparatory.
We clean the entire ceiling from the old putty and primer
Yes, you will now have to clean up the rest of the surface. If you want the output to be a smooth and decent ceiling, then don’t even dream that you can “pat it up” partially.
First, try with a spatula, dry, chip off old putty. If it comes off well, then continue like this, step by step.
If, however, she does not want to lag behind, you will have to thoroughly moisten the ceiling warm water and wait until the coating softens a little.
Do not think that the putty will really soften, it's not whitewash. But still, it will become a little more pliable and it will be easier for you to deal with it.
After you complete this most nasty and time-consuming process, pick up metal brush and clean it up well. And the surface of the ceiling and cracks.
Then dilute the primer in the way it is written on the package and “walk” along the ceiling well. In principle, the primer is already sold in liquid form and it is bred solely for the sake of economy.
If you do not want to save, then you can not even breed. In the end, the primer is quite inexpensive.
When you finish this procedure, leave the ceiling for five to six hours to dry completely. No need to rush, even if the ceiling looks completely dry. Do not forget that the primer penetrates deep into the concrete and you simply cannot see that it is damp inside.
And this moisture will not allow the materials to “grab” well.
What and how to cover the seams on the ceiling?
Well, here we come to the most important thing. Above we mentioned mounting foam. This is the best and easiest option to date. There is no point in messing with the solution if there is such an ingenious thing on sale.
The spray nozzle on the packages is very thin and you can easily destroy any tear. Don't forget to shake it well!
And do not press hard on the sprayer, it "goes" and so wonderful. If you overdo it and press down hard, then a huge ball will instantly appear, which will simply fall to the floor.
Keep in mind that the foam expands several times, so do not try to fill it as much as possible.
The foam dries in about a day. When it hardens, you need to take a special construction knife and carefully cut off the rest. Try to remove it as evenly as possible so that it does not protrude beyond the edges of the seams by a millimeter.
Penultimate touch: reinforcing mesh sticker
For some reason, the paint mesh, cut into strips, is called "sickle". She usually has adhesive layer. Therefore, you can stick it directly on the gap, and then apply the starting layer of putty.
If your sickle is not glued, but ordinary, then you need to take a spatula, apply the first layer of putty, and put a mesh on it, while it is still wet.
Gently press it with a spatula, achieving the most even plane.
Be sure to let this layer dry! If you rush and start applying a second coat, the mesh will shift and you will have to take it all off and start over.
When the first layer dries, apply a second layer of putty to the reinforced gap. Most importantly, try to make these layers thin, remembering that you need to level them in a plane with the entire ceiling.
After a day or two, when the gap is definitely dry, you can begin to putty the rest of the ceiling.
How to seal gaps in other rooms?
In principle, the essence of work from a change of place does not change much. If the floors in your garage also “dispersed”, you can completely repeat the procedure. You need to do this so that water does not leak onto your favorite car.
There are still gaps concrete balcony balcony or loggia. Here the gaps are already much more voluminous and it is inconvenient to seal them with just foam. If the hole is large, use pieces of foam, but pour foam into the gap between it and the concrete.
Sealing joints between floor slabs - necessary measure at repair work in an apartment or a private house. Due to voids at the joints, cracks form over time, which has a bad effect not only on appearance dwellings.
The appearance of defects in the overlap
This is the most pressing issue for multi-storey buildings, as the norms are not always observed during construction. As a result, after a few years, the surface begins to change for the worse, including the seam becomes noticeable. Newer houses use more advanced technologies to avoid significant displacement of the structure, but cracks still appear due to shrinkage.
The expansion of the space between the plates also entails:
- leakage in the presence of flaws in the roof;
- penetration of dampness into the house;
- heat loss;
- violation design decoration housing;
- further displacement of plates relative to each other.
Consider how to close the seam to avoid such negative consequences. It is important to perform the work with high quality in order to permanently get rid of surface defects.
Materials and tools
There are options for how to close up the space:
- cement-sand mortar with the addition of plasticizers;
- elastic polymer or gypsum plaster;
- NTs cement with expansion properties;
- sealant;
- tile adhesive.
Additionally, the following materials may be needed:
- mounting foam;
- primer;
- polystyrene;
- polyethylene foam rollers;
- sickle mesh;
- starting and finishing putty;
- Styrofoam.
These materials are needed to make a heat-insulating barrier and strengthen the plaster layer, which will fill the voids at the joints.
On top of the rough embedding, it is necessary to create a coating suitable for further decoration.
Since it is important to process the seams on the ceiling as evenly and smoothly as possible, you will need the following tools:
- flat spatulas of different sizes;
- primer brush;
- stiff brush for sweeping dust and concrete debris;
- perforator with a nozzle "shovel";
- sandpaper or construction grater.
Work surface preparation
Start by assessing the extent of the damage. Since most ceilings are covered with plaster, you need to get rid of it with water and a spatula. The old plaster is evenly saturated with a spray gun and allowed to soften, and then the unnecessary layer is carefully cleaned off with a tool.
Where the joint is, it is necessary to clean the seam itself from concrete. Over time, the edges of the plates begin to crumble, so they get rid of the weakened material - they take a puncher and clean out everything unnecessary.
Good adhesion with the mortar should be ensured in order to properly seal the seam. Concrete is treated with a primer, carefully brushing the recessed areas with a brush. It is better to use formulations that will provide additional antiseptic treatment. This will protect the concrete from the formation of fungus, which is indispensable on the upper floors adjacent to the attic.
Seam sealing
- Joint insulation. Pre-fill the expanded seam with a material that will serve as a heat insulator. You can use pieces of foam, special polystyrene rollers or mounting foam. The latter expands after drying, therefore it fills all the cracks, and the excess is simply removed with a knife.
- Primary sealing of seams on the ceiling. A small depression is cut in the insulation, and the plates are sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Then the solution is applied to the joint. It is recommended to choose expanding mixtures.
- Reinforcement. If the composition layer is very thick, it is advised to further strengthen it. To do this, use a special sickle mesh or construct a wire dressing in places where the seam becomes too wide.
- Surface smoothing. After the base layer has dried, it is worth correcting the defects and covering the sickle. The protruding parts of the cement are cleaned. It is important that no bumps or voids form in the solution.
Finishing
Final processing ceiling seams It consists in applying putty, which will completely mask it.
After drying, the solution is rubbed, treated with a primer, and applied on top finishing composition. It has a more homogeneous structure, its basis is gypsum and white cement. Putty can then be painted or glued on top of the wallpaper. If the shrinkage of the house is within the normal range, and the work itself was done correctly, cracks should not appear in the next 10 years.
Another option is installation. ceiling tiles. She is attached to installed frame or glued to plaster liquid nails. It is advisable to make a hanging or tension system to hide wiring and install spotlights.
In any case, you first need to work out the joints between the plates, since the sealed ceiling will be a guarantee of keeping the heat in the house and protecting the room from moisture and destruction.
How to close the seam between the tiles on the ceiling?
One of the most common problems encountered when renovating an apartment is the joints that appear between floor slabs. That's the fault different reasons, among which are called shrinkage of the house after construction and subsidence of the soil due to interseasonal movement of the soil. The ceiling with such cracks looks ugly and spoils the interior of the house. But sealing joints between floor slabs refers to those types of work that have their own subtleties. They will be discussed below.
We will talk about how to seal the seams on the ceiling between the plates, what nuances you will need to pay attention to and what tools and materials to stock up on. Sealing ceiling joints does not require special qualifications - even a beginner can handle this work. All you need is patience, conscientiousness and careful following of the recommendations.
Tools and materials
Sealing joints between floor slabs will require materials and tools. They should be acquired before taking on the job.
The seams between the floor slabs are among the ceiling defects that are difficult to seal
To successfully complete the task, you will need the following:
- spatulas different widths;
- metal brush;
- sprinkler;
- sharp knife;
- drill with a perforator;
- sandpaper;
- deep penetration primer for concrete - it is needed to increase the degree of adhesion of concrete and the substance with which we will seal the seams on the ceiling;
- cement NTs - it will be needed for deep cracks. It is characterized by the fact that it is able to increase in volume, filling all the cracks and pores;
- for gaps of large width, you will need a heat-insulating filler such as polyurethane, polyethylene foam or polyurethane foam;
- elastic latex putty;
- sealant;
- mesh-serpyanka for reinforcement - choose its width more than the width of the gap by 4-5 cm;
- primary putty;
- finishing putty.
After you have prepared all of the above, get to work. It is recommended to perform it in goggles, a respirator, overalls and work gloves.
Most residents face the problem of cracks in inter-ceiling floors. apartment buildings, especially for panel high-rise buildings
Ceiling preparation
Sealing the joints will entail repairing the entire ceiling - just sealing the seam between the plates and leaving the rest as it was will not work. Therefore, first prepare the surface - free it from whitewash, plaster and paint:
- Spray the surface with a spray bottle with water. For productivity, do it in batches. Leave the wetted surface for 15 minutes so that the moisture is absorbed - after that, remove the old plaster using spatulas of different widths. Treat the entire surface of the ceiling in this way - it must be completely cleaned;
- On the surface of the floor slabs, cleared of the old coating, you will see the volume of the task before you. As a rule, 2-3 joints are made between them in one room. The edges may be convex - in this case, you will have to use a perforator. Set the impact mode to no rotation and remove all bulges, and also clean the inside of the cracks from the old cement mortar.
- Using a wire brush, carefully clean each gap between the plates, removing dust, pieces of mortar, pebbles, etc. from it.
- Further, before closing the gap between the plates, it is necessary to cover it from the inside with deep penetration soil in several layers. Then sealing the joints on the ceiling will be more effective, since the primer increases the degree of adhesion between the concrete and the filling of the gap.
At this stage, we consider the preparation of the ceiling completed and we can begin to close up the joints of the plates on it. But before you close the seam, you need to evaluate its depth and width - this will determine how to close the seam.
The seams are free from residue old plaster, remove the remains of cement mortar, debris, dust
Working with a wide shallow joint
If you have at least once carried out repairs in an apartment or house, then you know that it should start from the ceiling. On the rough surface, you will see cracks that appear at the joints of the floors. Even if the surface is whitewashed, the cracks will reappear, which will raise the issue of sealing the seams between the plates.
Preparation of tools and materials
If you are thinking about the question of how to seal the seam on the ceiling between the plates, then you should prepare tools and materials, among them:
- putty;
- putty knife;
- shovel on a drill;
- masking tape;
- fine-grained sandpaper;
- primer;
- perforator;
- mixer;
- PVA glue;
- acrylic sealant.
As a putty, you can use dry gypsum mixture, but when choosing a primer, it is necessary to prefer one that has deep penetration. The spatula should have an elastic flexible blade, while the puncher can be replaced with a drill. But for him you need a nozzle in the form of a shovel. If sandpaper could not be found, you can use a sanding grid.
Before you, sooner or later, the question may also arise of how to seal the seam on the ceiling between the plates. The technology of the work is described in the article, but in order to achieve a high-quality result, it is necessary to choose the right materials.
The store should be purchased used to fill deep seams. This material has the properties of expansion during hardening, so it fills the entire space of joints and seams. You will also need dense thermal insulation materials which are necessary for sealing wide seams. It is better to purchase those that are made of foamed polyethylene or polyurethane.
Experts also advise using elastic putty. When buying a sickle mesh, it must be borne in mind that its width should go beyond the limits on both sides by 50 mm. For the final work, you will need a primary one and with which you will have to finish the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling.
How and what to close the seam
If you are faced with the question of how to seal the seam on the ceiling between the plates, you must decide on the order of work. These manipulations can be considered quite laborious, haste in this matter will become an obstacle. First, the seam is embroidered, for this you need to use a drill or a puncher, the tool should be supplemented with a nozzle in the form of a spatula.
Remains cement screed removed with a spatula or knife. If this step is neglected, then the fresh solution will not adhere well to the surface. The resulting gap must be cleaned of dust, coat its surface with a primer applied in an abundant layer. Layers should be allowed to dry. Gypsum plaster kneaded construction mixer. If you need very little composition, then you can do without a mixer.
The solution should have the consistency of thick sour cream. The crack is filled with plaster, and the furrows should be decorated in several passes. Each previous layer must be dried before laying the next. If you are thinking about how to seal the seam on the ceiling between the plates, then you can use mounting foam. It is used when the seams are especially deep. After drying, the remains of the material are cut off with a knife, the surface is leveled, and gypsum plaster should be rubbed into the pores of the foam.
Final works
After carrying out all the above steps, the layer should be allowed to dry. Only after that you can begin to strengthen. Its width should be 3 cm more in relation to the seam.
Putty should be applied on top of the tape. These layers must dry completely. The surface of the plates is primed and carried out. It is carried in a thin layer. Instead, you can use painting fiberglass, which is primed and painted in the desired color.
Material Alternatives
Quite often, novice masters think about how to seal the seam on the ceiling between the plates. Styling glue is sometimes used instead of foam ceramic tiles. can be replaced with a regular bandage or gauze.
A thin fabric is also suitable, which must be soaked in water and steamed with an iron so as not to experience shrinkage. In order to facilitate the work, the ceiling is peeled off with polystyrene foam tiles, which have no seams. Small cracks can be sealed acrylic sealant. Silicone sealant should not be purchased, because the paint does not hold on it.
Another solution would be the simultaneous formation and subsequent filling of cracks. First prepare a thick cement mortar to which liquid glass is added. The bandage is dipped in this composition, folded in the form of a tourniquet and laid in the slot. You need to work quickly, because the solution with glass will dry in a short time.
With the same composition, you can level the ceiling, and after drying, process it with sandpaper. When deciding how and with what to close the seam on the ceiling between the plates, care must be taken, because there may be wiring in the ceilings that must be protected from damage.
Many people are interested in knowing how to seal the seam on the ceiling between the plates, the instructions below will help you with this. Before cleaning, the surface should be treated with water from a spray bottle. It is best to wet only the part of the ceiling that you plan to work on at the moment.
The moistened area is left for 15 minutes, and after that it will be possible to get rid of the old coating and move on to the next area. The whole procedure on the new zone is repeated again. Until the entire plane of the ceiling is cleared, the work must be repeated again and again. As soon as you manage to get rid of the old coating, you will be able to estimate the amount of work ahead. As a rule, there are several joints per room, the number of which sometimes reaches three.
Thinking about the question of how to close the seam on the ceiling between the plates, the options presented above are worth considering. At the preparation stage, the seam should be cleaned, deepening by 50 mm. Further, using a wide brush or iron brush, the seam is cleaned of small remains of concrete.
To seal the seam, special polyethylene foam rollers can be used. It is important to choose products desired thickness. A strip of sealant is applied to one side. After the roller can be filled into the previously primed joint. To do this, you need a spatula. The master should make sure that there is room for filling the space with concrete.
When sealing joints with expanding concrete, it is necessary to put recesses for decorative plaster. Once the mortar has dried and the groove has been prepared, an elastic putty can be applied to the surface. Work should be carried out using two spatulas, one of them should be wide, the other - medium or narrow.
Work methodology
A composition is collected from a container on a wide tool, and a narrow one will be needed to apply putty to the joint. The solution is compacted into a seam and leveled to the level of the ceiling surface. Excess putty should be disposed of. After 2 days, which are necessary for the mixture to dry, you can begin to reinforce the seam. To do this, a thin layer of putty is applied to the surface, on which the mesh is strengthened. It should be pressed into the solution and the excess removed with a spatula.
The application of the primer after the joints have dried is carried out using a roller. It is better to apply it in two layers.
After the ceiling has dried, plastering can begin. First, a thin layer is applied, and after it dries, you can lay the final finish, which should be smooth. It is necessary to use a spatula when applying, leveling the surface to an ideal state.
Filling a hole in a seam
Now you know how to seal the seam on the ceiling between the plates. We hide the seams along with the holes in them. In this case, you can act in one of two ways. Inner part holes close up, which can be done with a narrow brush. The inner walls are cleaned of dirt, sprayed with a primer.
As soon as the first layer dries, you can start applying the second. Thinking about the question of how to close the seam on the ceiling between the plates, you need to read the tips. From them you can find out that the seams, like the holes, are filled with mounting foam. After it dries and expands, the excess should be cut off, during inner space holes, you need to cut a cone, the height of which will be 50 mm. These manipulations are necessary for laying cement mortar.
Conclusion
Many novice home craftsmen are thinking about the question of how to seal the seam on the ceiling between the plates so that particles of cement do not fall out. As in the case of cracks, the holes should be finished with putty, on the layer of which the sickle is glued. It should be well leveled and left to dry. For filling holes big size You can use plywood or laminate trim. The dimensions of the sheet must be 100 mm larger than the dimensions of the hole.
