We carry out high-quality wall insulation in the bath from the inside. Insulation for baths and steam rooms, which insulation is better? What insulation is better for a steam bath

A good heater for a bath is the most important thing to pay attention to when it comes to interior design. After all, the safety of bathing procedures, their comfort, and the durability of the walls themselves directly depend on its quality - especially in the steam room. But how to figure out which insulation is better for a bath, when almost a dozen of their types are offered on the modern market? Our article will help you with this.

So, back in Soviet times, civil engineers made the following discovery: any homogeneous thick wall does not guarantee effective heat retention - because it will necessarily absorb some of the energy itself. But a multilayer structure, in which materials of different technical characteristics are located - in terms of density, porosity and thermal conductivity - just well prevents heat loss, and such a half-meter "pie" can be compared in its performance with a wall one and a half meters thick. But the effectiveness of the "pie" itself depends on what kind of insulation for the bath was chosen.

Requirements for a bath heater

First of all, it is environmentally friendly, most resistant to moisture, well resistant to the growth of bacteria and fungi, and, finally, able to keep its shape well for many years. And the most important indicator of the effectiveness of a heater is the coefficient of its thermal conductivity. The higher it is, the better the material itself. For example, it is mineral wool that is considered the warmest so far - its indicator is 0.045 W / (K * m).

In addition, there are additional requirements for the heater in the bath:

It should work well with existing finishing and building materials, without in any way affecting their specific advantages.
Do not allow condensation to accumulate.
Have the lowest moisture absorption value.
Have a certificate of safety of use and full compliance with fire and sanitary and hygienic criteria.
Ensure the possibility of performing absolutely hermetic thermal insulation.

organic heaters

These are heaters that are made from plant or animal material - linen tow, shavings, cellulose, felt and others.

For example, heat-insulating products made from peat, reeds and woodworking waste are quite popular today. These are reed, chipboard and peat slabs, which are good for warming the dressing room and the rest room. They are not allowed in hot rooms - despite the fact that such materials are usually additionally treated with flame retardants.

Inorganic heaters

Such heaters are made through the processing of minerals. And they are already divided into:

Polymer heaters and their features

Polymer insulation includes all those that are created by human hands - first of all, it is polystyrene. This material is like a heater for, if it has a second floor, it is light, convenient and practical. It is easy for them to carry out all the work, it resists moisture well and tolerates high temperatures.

These types of this material are most often used today for insulation: foam plastics, foam plastics with a foamy and cellular structure, honeycomb plastic insulation. The newest and quite popular option today is foam glass, which is easy to cut with a knife and saw, and conveniently attached to the surface. In addition, foam glass as a heater for the roof of the bath embodied all the best from stone wool and polystyrene.

But still, it is extremely undesirable to insulate the inside of the bath with polystyrene foam - due to the fact that at high temperatures it begins to emit dangerous vapors of phenol, a particularly toxic substance. After all, only perfectly chemically pure materials can be used for a bath - and absolutely fireproof.

Mineral and glass wool insulation

This includes the famous mineral wool and not only. In general, mineral heaters are considered the most economical for baths. They are made from stone and slag fibers, so that such mats can even be used to insulate the surface of a bath pool.

But basalt insulation for a bath, diabase, dolomite, slag and limestone wool has its own priorities in that they are not combustible, have really high insulating characteristics, are durable, do not deform and are famous for their water-repellent properties. Installation with such cotton wool is quite simple and convenient, and the material itself is not to the taste of rodents. That is why basalt and stone insulation for a bath is one of the most preferred today.

Close in its characteristics to basalt wool and glass wool - it is also more flexible in installation. However, the limit of resistance to high-temperature exposure is lower. As a heater for the walls of the bath, it fits well - but not for the steam room.

Benefits of foil insulation

Insulation for the ceiling in the bath is most often selected with reflective characteristics. Among them, the so-called mirror heaters are quite popular today - they are supplemented with a special polished aluminum film that does not let the most valuable thing out of the steam room - infrared thermal radiation. And such a “pie” is much more effective than ordinary foil on cotton wool, which is often simply not able to withstand massive heat loss. In fact, this is an ideal heater for the ceiling of the bath, and not only.

What kind of insulation to take for insulation between the crowns?

Insulation for baths and saunas can be not only internal or external, but also interventional. Indeed, the heat in the bath itself depends on how densely the space between the logs is filled.

So, for a long time, materials such as red moss, cuckoo flax, sphagnum, woolen felt, hemp hemp, linen tow and jute were used to insulate the log cabin of the bath. But all of them are very attractive to birds and insects, and therefore, already a couple of years after the insulation, it is necessary to restore the thermal layer between the logs. In addition, if such an interventional insulation also turns out to be underdried, then it will begin to rot and simply pull the entire log house with it.

It is quite difficult to work with such materials - they quickly dry out during the masonry process, and therefore it takes just a lot of time for all this. That is why today builders increasingly prefer new hybrid heat insulators - combinations of jute and flax fibers. These are lnovatin, flax-jute felt, jute felt and fluffy spruce or pine wood. All of them fill the gaps in the log house well and do not require re-caulking.

However, for each type of bath, or rather, the material from which it is built, its own type of insulation is suitable. About what on our site there is a separate interesting article.

A bath is a room that serves not only for hygiene, but also for strengthening human health, cleansing the body of toxins, and strengthening immunity. The bath involves the creation in its internal space of an atmosphere with high temperature and humidity, like a thermos. Naturally, any loss of heat and steam is unacceptable here, otherwise there is no way to achieve a positive effect from bath procedures. Therefore, for the owners and builders of baths, the first task is to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside, which contributes to the fullest use of the benefits of this wonderful type of recreation and recovery.

During the construction of a bath, first of all, there is a question about the environmental friendliness of all materials used - from supporting structures to decoration and interior equipment. Many try to initially use only natural materials in the construction. So, log cabin baths are, of course, the most popular today, although the most expensive. But often the owners prefer to build baths from cinder blocks, trying to use natural materials to a greater extent when processing the inner surface of the walls.

natural materials

Most often, for the thermal insulation of the bath, the owners use such natural materials as construction moss, felt, flax tow or hemp hemp. All these tools are excellent for fumigation of cracks in log cabins, as well as in baths made of other materials. These are environmentally friendly heaters, used for both internal and external thermal insulation.

Building moss based on plant components, such as cuckoo flax or sphagnum, is considered especially valuable because of its bactericidal properties. During the operation of the bath, moss gives a pleasant aroma, contributing to the most complete relaxation during the procedure. However, as a heater, moss has several disadvantages:

Moss, like other natural materials, is easily damaged by insects, rodents and birds;
It dries quickly, especially if the bath is not used for a long time;
Moss is prone to decay, the formation of mold and fungal plaque, and this contributes to the destruction of the entire structure of the bath;
The process of thermal insulation with natural materials is quite laborious.

Some owners may recommend the impregnation of vegetable insulation with chemicals, but this leads to the loss of all the valuable qualities of the natural material. Chemical impregnations themselves, when used in a hot and humid atmosphere, can harm human health with their fumes. To date, jute and linen fibers are considered universal materials that contribute to the best insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside.

Benefits of jute and linen

The thermal insulation of the bath from the inside can be done with jute felt, flax or flax-jute fibrous material. The advantages of all these insulating means are:

Excellent thermal insulation qualities due to the low thermal conductivity of materials;
Ease of laying and caulking;
Resistant to rot, mold, fungus, insect, bird and rodent damage;
Environmental friendliness - materials, although they have a factory-made type, but basically contain exclusively natural components of plant and animal origin without any chemical impurities;
High resistance to temperature and humidity changes, as well as to drying out;
Strength and durability.

Most often, mixtures of jute and linen fibers are used to insulate the walls of a bath structure, which can be purchased in the form of rolls of fibrous material of various thicknesses and widths.

Warming with other materials

In addition to flax and jute, when insulating a bath, ordinary heat insulators are often used, such as expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, mineral wool and dry bulk insulation - expanded clay, brick chips mixed with sawdust, etc. In addition, for the thermal insulation of the walls of the bath, fibreboard and chipboard are actively used.

Particular attention should be paid to the vapor barrier of the walls of the bath. The materials for the vapor barrier layer complement the overall heat-saving function of the walls, but at the same time protect them from rotting and mold formation, since high humidity inside the room can quickly destroy not only the insulation itself, but the entire building.

Vapor barriers

As a vapor barrier for a bath, you need tools that can withstand temperature extremes. Such materials include polyethylene film, glassine, aluminum foil and others. The vapor barrier layer must, first of all, be environmentally friendly, since in a warm and humid environment it will inevitably undergo evaporation, and then harmful substances can penetrate from its surface into the air of a bath or steam room if the owner has made the wrong choice.

The best material for moisture insulation is aluminum foil. It withstands high temperatures up to 150 degrees, is absolutely harmless, resistant to decay, mold and is very durable. Often, heat-insulating materials are used to insulate the walls of the bath, which already have a layer of aluminum foil on one of the surfaces intended for the interior space. For example, prefabricated styrofoam or fiberboard often has a foil surface on one side.

In addition, seams and joints between insulation should also be sealed using foil tape, which often has a double-sided adhesive surface. Thus, the walls of the bath are covered from the inside with a continuous layer of heat and moisture insulation, which helps to create the appropriate atmosphere for wellness procedures to the maximum extent.

In addition to the foil vapor barrier, kraft paper is also successfully used. It is good to use for a steam room, as it creates an excellent sealing of the room and at the same time insulates it in addition to other heat-insulating means.

Usually, a special frame made of wood material, the so-called crate, is superimposed on top of the insulation inside the bath. It is necessary for further finishing the walls of the bath, because it is to the crate that finishing finishing products are fixed - panels, plates, interior fittings, shelves and others.

Ventilation gaps

When insulating the walls of a bath building, many owners create a system of ventilation gaps - special spaces located between the insulating material and the outer wall. These are very narrow slots necessary to remove excess steam and air from the interior. Moreover, such ventilation does not affect the microclimate of the bath from the inside, since excessive moisture goes into the ventilation gaps very slowly, gradually, through microscopic pores in the heat-insulating layer of the walls.

Even at minimum speed and invisibility to the internal atmosphere of the bath, ventilation to a large extent protects the entire building from premature destruction due to increased dampness, rotting and mold formation. Narrow air gaps can be left in the thickness of the walls, foundation and ceiling, and can be equipped with special outlet pipes.

Thus, using all these nuances - the right choice of insulating materials, the use of suitable vapor barriers, the creation of a multilayer insulation structure, leaving ventilation spaces - you can create an excellent source for rest, recovery and relaxation - a Russian bath.

Comfortable living is provided not only by the availability of utilities and the design of the premises. It is important to protect the house from heat loss, which is important in the cold season. Doors and windows are powerful sources of penetration into the house of cold air masses. There are several ways to keep the heat in the room.

Change doors to energy-saving designs. This is not cheap and is associated with accompanying operations for the design of slopes, the installation of platbands, and so on. In many cases, it is possible to solve this problem in affordable ways without significant costs. One of the traditional insulation materials is a felt door seal, which has both disadvantages and advantages.

Advantages of felt seals

Today, manufacturers offer a new generation of materials that are easy to install and affordable. The share of felt products is decreasing, but it is too early to abandon the use, since they have a number of special qualities:

Wear resistance. Natural fibers withstand significant physical exertion without compromising quality.
Life time. Unlike rubber and foam rubber seals, felt does not contain volatile substances, the content of which steadily decreases during operation. This leads to the destruction of the material and requires replacement. Felt seals do not lose their properties for many years.
Soundproofing. The material absorbs vibrations. Both postorennye noises and the sounds of the door in contact with the box are extinguished.
Environmental friendliness. Only natural raw materials are used in production. There is no emission of substances harmful to health.
Fire safety. The density of wool fibers and their qualities are such that combustion is impossible under normal conditions.

Finished felt seal for doors

Disadvantages of felt seals

Previously, felt as a heater and sealant was used everywhere. It was considered the best material for these purposes. Why is this method of protecting housing from the cold inferior to primacy? Despite the fact that the user qualities of felt are not in doubt, there are also disadvantages:

Price. Production refers to traditional technologies with a long history. Felt is made from natural wool. In the process of hydrothermal processing, the fibers are pressed into sheet or roll material. The cost of raw materials and wages form a price that is higher than a synthetic fiber of a similar area.
Difficulty of installation. On sale it is difficult to find a felt seal that meets most of the requirements. All operations require an individual approach and qualifications. The range of felt materials is limited. It is necessary to independently cut the strips of the required width and choose the method of fixation.

Roll felt

Attractive to moths and mice. Unlike microorganisms and molds that do not live in felt, rodents and some types of insects like the material. Moth perceives felt as a food product, and mice insulate their minks with it.

Attention! When buying, you should carefully read the information about the product on the packaging or in the accompanying documents. Natural felt is 100% wool. There are materials with a similar name on sale, but they cannot be considered as such. In cases where the percentage of natural fiber content is indicated in the composition, and even more so when it is absent there.

Types of felt seals

The production of the material is localized in the regions traditionally producing wool products. Classical technology is rooted in the distant past and has secrets. Not all developed countries know how to make felt. In Russia, the secrets of production are not lost, and the products enjoy well-deserved respect. Despite the fact that the manufacturing process is traditional, product quality is regulated by state standards. The consumer can choose the necessary felt of the following types:

GOST 288-72. Fine-wool technical felt. The inclusion of synthetic substances is allowed. The main application was found in technology. Gaskets, seals made of this material are used in mechanical engineering;
GOST 6308-71. Semi-coarse technical felt. Excellent wear resistance. It is used in mechanical engineering and in small volumes in construction;
GOST 6418-81. Coarse-wool technical felt. It is used in many areas of economic activity. From mechanical engineering to construction;
GOST 16221-79. This type of felt is called yurt felt. The name corresponds to the purpose of the material. Produced in the form of rectangular cavities. There is no single standard. Allowed length from 2 to 6 m, and width from 1.4 to 2 m;
Felt. It is used for technical purposes and in the production of household items and clothing. An expensive kind of felt. Produced in thicknesses from 2 to 10 mm. The felt seal is made from old things, such as hats or an anti-shock layer removed from packages, which is used to transport fragile valuable instruments and devices.

Automotive Soundproofing Felt

Any felt is used as a door seal. The minimum required thickness must be taken into account. The dynamic compression ratio of felt is limited. For this reason, the difference in the width of the gap should not exceed 2-3 mm. Otherwise, the door leaf porch will not be airtight, the seal will be partial and the protection will not be effective.

Advice! With an uneven gap width, you can pre-fill places with a large gap with pieces of felt of the desired thickness. It is easily cut in the longitudinal direction. After preliminary alignment, the finishing strip of felt is installed. Another option involves mounting the felt seal with the end side relative to the plane of the door. It is effective in this case to form a roller.

How to fasten felt

When this type of seal was used everywhere, and there was no alternative, it was nailed. Decades have passed since then, and there are more ways to fix. Easy to use stapler. A paperclip is better than a nail at holding material. But the traditional method of fastening with decorative nails has not lost its relevance. Video showing how in a simple and affordable way you can seal the door porch yourself

A wide range of adhesives allows you to choose a brand for fixing both wood and metal surfaces. You can’t fix felt on a steel sheet with nails or a stapler, so in this case this is the best option. Double sided tape is not recommended. It can be used in exceptional or emergency cases. The strength of the connection is low and the service life will leave much to be desired.

Universal adhesive "Nairit" indicating the application for felt

The glue method has nuances. The loose and fibrous structure of the felt requires a large amount of composition. Ground layer recommended. The prepared strip of insulation is smeared with glue and allowed to dry. It's not worth doing too much. Enough impregnation to a depth of 1 mm. After complete drying, a layer of glue is applied, and gluing is carried out according to the technology recommended by the manufacturer in the prescribed mode.

colored felt

In some cases, felt insulation is used specifically to maintain a folk style. In wooden houses, baths with deliberately rough surfaces, natural material looks organic, and designers use this technique with pleasure. The fiber dyeing technology has been worked out, and today felt can be purchased in a wide range of colors.

Felt seal for doors: protecting the house from the cold

Felt seal for doors: what types of material are best suited for this. Mounting technology. The nuances of installation on various door designs.

What is the insulation for the door - briefly about the main

Doors are not only the "face" of any home and reliable protection against uninvited guests, but also a barrier against drafts and cold entering the room. However, even a new door leaf often does not cope with this task up to the mark. For this purpose, door insulation is used. It is also needed to isolate the room from sounds coming from outside.

Features of the choice of door insulation

The reasons for heat loss are different: from skewed door leaf and insufficient sealing, to insufficient quality of the material. If replacing the door is not included in the plans, then the only right solution that will help save 25-30% of heat energy is door insulation, the nuances of which will be discussed.

In order to reliably insulate entrance or balcony doors, use the following materials: mineral wool; cellular insulation; liquid insulation; polypropylene; felt insulation (including self-adhesive); polyurethane, anti-draught.

The nuances of installing door insulation

You will have to tinker with the insulation of a metal door.

Algorithm for mounting insulation on a metal door:

If the door is collapsible, it is unwound, having previously removed it from the hinges and dismantled the locks with handles. In the case of welded seams, they are separated using an angle grinder.
Laying the insulation in an empty box (if necessary - blowing with mounting foam).
Assembly of the door frame.

In the case of a wooden door, the jamb is first leveled and the hinges are strengthened.

Stages of fixing insulation on a wooden door:

The doors are removed from the hinges, the fittings are untwisted.
The canvas is laid on a flat surface, after which a heater is attached to it with liquid nails or glue.
The upholstery is reinforced with an interval between nails of 30 cm.

Each material has design and installation criteria that help you choose the right insulation.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is produced from silicate rocks. High noise and heat insulation characteristics of the product are determined by the fibrous structure. Mineral wool is environmentally friendly, non-flammable, resistant to moisture penetration, the influence of temperature fluctuations, is not afraid of chemicals, and is also characterized by moderate cost.

The main disadvantages of the material are subsidence under its own weight, resulting in the formation of voids. To avoid this, the installation of additional stiffeners that can keep the insulation from slipping helps.

Cotton wool is applied to the entire surface of the door leaf, avoiding gaps, using glue or fasteners, paying attention to insulation around the perimeter. From above it is covered with a decorative coating (leatherette).

Today, this method of door insulation is rarely used in practice due to moral and technological obsolescence.

The cost of the material is from 385 rubles. for packing and more. Mineral wool without a binder costs from 35 r. for 1 kg.

Honeycomb insulation

This material is essentially a standard cardboard, factory pressed into an accordion or in the form of a honeycomb.

Honeycomb door filling is considered the cheapest option for insulation, but the least effective in terms of insulation from noise or cold air. It is used as a filler, which deprives the door of hollowness.

Mounted as standard, on the entire surface of the door, avoiding obvious gaps.

The cost of the material is from 29 to 125 r per 1 sheet. If you purchase material in a roll, then the price is 2100-3800 rubles.

Liquid insulation

Liquid insulators are considered an alternative to frame bulky heaters. They are a mixture similar in consistency to paint, but with the following useful properties:

high level of thermal conductivity, sound insulation (1 layer of liquid insulation corresponds to a layer of mineral wool 50 cm thick and helps to save 30-40% of thermal energy);
immunity to fire, UV radiation;
ease of application.

The disadvantage of such materials is considered not to everyone the affordable cost and many fakes on the market.

Liquid insulation is applied with a roller or brush, like paint, after sealing the cracks in the door leaf.

The price for 1 liter of liquid insulator is from 260 rubles. and higher, depending on the brand and technological nuances of the mixture.

Foam propylene

The main advantages of this insulation are environmental friendliness, light weight, insulating characteristics, resistance to fire, moisture, chemicals and atmospheric phenomena. Penopropylene withstands loads, does not absorb water.

It is produced in the form of air plates that can be easily cut to the required dimensions and easily attached to the door using special glue or liquid nails.

The material costs starting from 1100 r and above for 1 package, which differ in size or number of sheets.

felt insulation

It is considered a classic option for insulating the door leaf. Traditionally, a felt seal is used, but now a self-adhesive insulation for doors has appeared.

Self-adhesive felt insulation for doors or foam rubber is attached to the pre-cleaned door leaf around the perimeter. At the same time, make sure that the material does not interfere with the tight closing of the door and seals all the cracks.

Self-adhesive for doors costs starting from 30 rubles. per 1 roll, depending on the length and manufacturer of the product.

polyurethane foam

This strong and durable material is a mixture of bubbles, which has anti-noise and heat transfer characteristics, is not afraid of moisture, fire and chemicals. Differs in good adhesion with a surface, does not demand preliminary processing of a cloth. PPU is available in elastic or rigid form.

Liquid PPU is pumped into the door frame with a gun and covers the entire canvas with an even layer. After drying, all gaps are additionally filled in and the surface is cleaned, preparing it for sheathing.

Self-assembly presents certain difficulties and requires practical experience.

Sheet polyurethane foam costs starting from 734 r per 1 pc.

anti draft

This insulation is attached to the bottom of the door, due to which the gap between the floor is isolated, protecting the room from drafts.

Mounted easily, according to the factory instructions. Cost - from 90 rubles. for 1 piece 85 cm long. Experienced specialists will help to make the right choice of insulation.

Door insulation (self-adhesive and felt): find out how to choose

However, even a new door leaf often does not cope with this task up to the mark. For this purpose, door insulation is used.

How and what to insulate the door

Insulation of entrance doors is relevant both for a private house and for an apartment in a multi-storey building, since heat loss through a doorway in the cold season can reach up to 20%. The easiest and cheapest way to eliminate drafts is to fix the door insulation in problem areas of the opening. The traditional material for creating a barrier to the penetration of cold air into housing is ordinary building felt, but besides it, there are a lot of modern synthetic insulation, and about the whole variety of these materials - below.

Felt tape for insulation of doorways

Types of doors and methods of their insulation

No matter how tightly the doors are fitted to the frame, over time, gaps appear between the door leaf and the frame, and the frame itself may warp. Therefore, the factory seal is broken, allowing cold air to freely enter the living areas of the house. Completely changing the door is a costly and not always acceptable solution, and fixing felt insulation on the ends of the door or opening is a cheap and quick solution, which often completely eliminates blowing through the door. But, besides the time factor, there are other reasons for the occurrence of a draft in the front door opening:

Erroneous installation, mismatched door leaf;
Loosening of canopies (loops);
The old house has crooked walls.

Removing drafts from the front door

The door leaf and frame made of wood warp and wear out much more often than metal structures, since the tree absorbs moisture well, and it is not always possible to protect it from this qualitatively. Due to soaking in moisture, cracks and twisting of the fibers appear in the wood, and such deformations are potential places for drafts to enter. Due to periodic moistening and shrinkage, the doors can sag, loosen, dry out, crack and deform, which will necessarily affect the density of contact between the leaf and the frame.

Therefore, wooden doors are not installed as often as before, and this is facilitated by the appearance of doors made of other, more modern and reliable materials - plastic, metal, glass, or a combination of these components.

Metal entrance doors are the most reliable and warm, despite the fact that metal conducts heat well. The fact is that a high-quality insulation is laid inside the fabric structure, and often it is a felt sealant or synthetic materials such as foam, polypropylene or synthetic wool. In addition, the high precision of manufacturing the structure ensures minimal gaps between the door and the frame, which means that the insulating gasket will be dense and durable. The cost of metal doors is higher than wooden structures, but their reliability is much higher. The same applies to doors made of plastic or glass.

Internal arrangement of metal doors with insulation

The designs of wooden doors are made of solid wood, from a panel assembly, with a glued or paneled canvas.

Of all the listed designs of entrance doors, plastic ones withstand sub-zero temperatures worse than others and poorly retain cold air flows. Therefore, to insulate plastic doors, you will have to try, and the best way out is to hire a specialist. But the most reliable, albeit expensive option is to install a second front door. However, it, like the first door, will also have to be insulated.

And, if for the installation of at least the first, at least the second entrance door, the help of professionals is needed, then to attach a felt seal to the door, you only need your desire. When carrying out this simple operation, you first need to check the box (door frame), canvas, fittings, lock, and even platbands for their proper fastening, the absence of cracks and loosening. To prevent such an examination from giving negative results, it is recommended to regularly carry out the following set of measures:

Seasonal preventive maintenance: lubrication of moving mechanisms (except for the lock secret), checking fasteners, replacing hinges, etc.;
Elimination of subsidence or sagging of the canvas;
Wooden doors must be coated with varnish, paint, water-repellent impregnation, and the coating must be renewed annually;
Checking the strength of the fastening of the door frame, if necessary - its additional strengthening;
Check existing insulation, if necessary - install felt insulation for doors.

Freezing points and places of insulation

Materials for door insulation

The functional range of materials that create a hermetic seal between the sheet and the box, prevent the penetration of moisture and cold air currents from the street, is quite wide, but traditionally these are: polyethylene foam), rubber tape seals. To insulate the gaps, it is recommended to use synthetic seals that do not collapse from temperature extremes and moisture, and to insulate the door leaf, it is preferable to mount natural materials from felt, felt, etc. Such thermal insulation will be protected from harmful atmospheric influences by the door body.

Since insulation can be combined with decorating the canvas, leatherette or synthetic leather with a layer of insulation is best suited for this purpose. Natural finishing materials are expensive, and they are usually ordered on an individual basis. For self-insulation of the door you will need:

Thick fishing line or soft thin wire;
Screwdrivers, screwdriver and screws (for wood or metal - depends on the material of the door);
Bit for a screwdriver or drill to make grooves in a wooden sheet for sealing tape. In such grooves, you can insert felt insulation, synthetic winterizer, soft rubber, foam rubber;
Mounting construction foam for sealing the gaps between the box and the wall of the entrance doorway;
Construction stapler and staples 14-16 mm in size, level, tape measure.

Materials and tools for door insulation

Insulation works

Immediately before insulating the canvas and sealing the gaps, cracks, distortions, loosening, sagging, and other visible door defects should be eliminated. The cracks are covered with putty on wood, the gaps and skew of the canvas are regulated by canopies. On a wooden door, you can seal the screw holes for the hinges so as not to re-hang them to a new place. An extreme measure to eliminate the loose closing of a wooden door or its distortion is the use of a planer.

Choosing a seal for any door is a serious matter, as different materials will behave differently:

Foam rubber seals are usually made with one self-adhesive surface, and they are not reliable and durable. Their advantage is cheapness;
The rubber seal is a narrow tape with a sticky surface. The tape is sold without an adhesive surface, and then it can be glued with ordinary rubber glue, after cleaning the working surface. On a wooden door, a rubber seal can be nailed with small nails;
A felt seal in the form of a tape is nailed to the frame of a wooden door or glued to metal (plastic) with rubber glue. The thickness of the felt tape depends on the gap - if you need to make the tape thinner, it is cut with a carpentry cutter;
The sealing tape and plastic or silicone is much more elastic than rubber or felt, it is poorly compressed under the pressure of the canvas, so it will last longer. Both silicone and plastic do not crack from frost, do not deform or stretch, they make hermetically sealed surfaces.

Felt door seal

The tape is fastened and placed around the perimeter of the frame without gaps, the length of the tape may be more than necessary, but not less, so that you do not have to make an additional connection, which will reduce the tightness of the seam. The thickness of the tape is set with a piece of plasticine - it is glued to the frame, the door is closed, and after opening it, it will be seen how thick the seal is needed.

Replacing the seal on the front door

Any tape seal must be fixed if the thickness of the factory seal is already insufficient to prevent drafts, and combining decor with insulation is the most reliable measure.

Door insulation, self-adhesive, felt, upholstery

Felt insulation: application, installation

Felt comes in rolls and sheets.

In one of our earlier articles, we introduced you how to insulate a bathroom. Today we will talk about a very old, but, unfortunately, lost its popularity insulation made of natural sheep wool - felt. For the insulation of doors, window and door frames, the crowns of log houses, this material fits perfectly. But if you want to completely isolate the house with them, you will encounter many problems, the solutions of which are extremely difficult to find. “There are no hopeless situations,” the notorious Baron Munchausen used to say, but, despite this, there is still no developed clear methodology for insulating walls with felt.

What is felt insulation for doors

What a pity that this excellent, natural material with excellent characteristics is almost forgotten. Today, felt is used to insulate doors and window openings. In ordinary houses, this ends, but if we are talking about wooden structures or a bathhouse from a log house (beam), then it is also used as an interventional insulation and for caulking cracks. And, probably, no one even knows that felt insulation can be different:

technical fine wool - manufactured in accordance with GOST No. 288-72;
technical semi-coarse - made in accordance with GOST No. 6308-71;
technical coarse wool - manufactured in accordance with GOST No. 6418-81;
yurt - manufactured in accordance with GOST No. 16221-79;
fert - made from the finest fibers of six rabbits and goats.

Felt insulation has a fairly low thermal conductivity, the coefficient is 0.03-0.07 W / m * K and depends on the density of the material. The latter varies in the range from 10 to 400 kg/m. cube

The material is produced both in panels and in rolls. The dimensions of the panels are 2000 x 2000 mm, rolls are up to 1800 mm wide and up to 200 m long. It is made from both natural raw materials and synthetic ones. Synthetics are already a trend of our time, you should not take it seriously, but natural materials deserve attention.

This is a seal for crowns, 15% consisting of felt.

In addition to the fact that felt is produced in its pure form, it can be part of other natural insulation materials. For example, felt jute, where impurities make up to 15% of the total mass of the material. It is produced in tapes and is used for laying between the crowns of buildings made of logs or timber, as well as for sealing gaps between logs and in corners (bowls).

Felt insulation for doors was originally used to make felt boots. The very name of this shoe tells us about the method of its production. Felt boots are made from natural sheep wool by dry or wet felting. As a result, the villi are so interconnected that a monolithic carpet is obtained. Anyone who spent at least one winter in felt boots knows firsthand about their qualities. Accordingly, felt insulation for doors has all these characteristics:

repels moisture, but still gets wet;
when wet, does not lose heat-insulating qualities;
excellent sound insulator;
not harmful and non-toxic;
does not burn in the natural environment - to maintain combustion, more oxygen is needed than is contained in atmospheric air;
it does not contain harmful bacteria.

It would seem that the felt seal for the door is just an ideal material, but no, there is one drawback. He is very fond of eating moths, and if it has already started, then it is extremely difficult to remove it. In this regard, the material in production is treated with a 3% solution of sodium chloride.

The question of what kind of heating for the house is better has been raised more than once, and there is still no clear answer. Each of the methods has both advantages and disadvantages.

How to insulate the door in the bath with felt

Most often, felt is used for insulating door and window frames, as well as for external door insulation. The fact that the material is environmentally friendly and that it breathes makes it possible to use it even in baths at high temperatures and humidity. Consider the insulation of the door in the bath with felt from two angles. The first will be the insulation of the box.

This technique is applicable both for entrance doors and for entering the steam room. In both cases, felt door insulation is laid along the perimeter of the box at the junction with the movable part. For this you need:

roll the felt into a small roll;
on the side where the edge is visible, the roll is laid around the perimeter of the box;
fastened with nails or a stapler.

No additional protection is needed. If it is necessary to insulate the front door with felt, then you need to take a panel and fix it on the outside. Then, using furniture nails with beautiful caps, fix the material you like (usually a leather substitute) over the insulation. The main thing is that the finish is resistant to atmospheric aggressions.

The two-pipe heating scheme of a two-story house can be either vertical or horizontal. At the same time, there can also be several methods for wiring horizontal contours for each floor. Some of them: hitchhiking, dead-end, collector.

Where else is felt insulation used?

Felt-based linoleum - insulation and soundproofing.

In addition to the above purposes, this material can be used for thermal insulation:

Methods, of course, are rarely used, but they are still discussed on the forums. Although felt for floor insulation is used very often as a substrate for linoleum. Considering the hypothetical possibility of laying insulation under finishing materials, for example, as foam wall insulation, you need to immediately cut off possible problems:

moisture - although the material does not absorb moisture well, it still happens;
moth - you need to impregnate the material with some kind of agent, but then you can forget about environmental friendliness;
rodents - do not miss the chance to pull soft bedding into their hole.

As you can see, it is rather problematic to use felt for wall insulation, and the price bites. It is sold by weight and for a kilo they ask from 200 rubles, depending on the density. Such insulation will cost almost gold. As a local thermal insulation, a felt seal is suitable, but even the technology has not been developed for the insulation of large areas. How to be in such a situation when there is no one to even turn to for practical advice? On the forums on this issue, you will not find practitioners with fire during the day - some theorists are skeptical.

Warming the house with felt is a harsh reality

Despite all the positive aspects of this material, the complex insulation of the house with felt is not possible for a number of reasons:

it absorbs moisture;
moth starts in it;
mice feel great in it;
it is too expensive;
there is no methodology for such work.

You can talk about how to insulate a door with felt from two sides:

insulation of the box (joints);
comprehensive insulation from the outside.

Also, this material is used for caulking interventional cracks. In addition, felt insulation for the walls of wooden houses is used as a gasket between logs (beams) during the installation of the structure. It can be used both in pure form and as part of other materials (jute). Attempts to completely insulate the walls of any buildings from any materials are best left. Yes, there is a strong felt for yurts, which has high insulating qualities, but it still won't work. It is not designed to be enclosed by a body of walls, because you are not going to insulate without finishing. Felt insulation for the floor is used quite widely, but only as a substrate for linoleum. It does not apply to laminate.

Felt sealant for insulation of doors, walls, floors of the bath

Felt sealant is available in rolls and sheets. They can insulate doors, walls and floors. Comprehensive insulation of the house with felt is impossible, there is no methodology.

Most types of baths need to be insulated from the inside. This will lead to fuel savings and more efficient and faster heating of the steam room.

Warming from the inside is an inevitable event for most types of baths. It allows you to spend less fuel, faster and better warm up the steam room. Properly made insulation protects the walls of the bath from fungus, decay, prolongs its service life. In this article, we will select inexpensive and safe types of thermal insulation, depending on the material of the walls of the bath, and consider how to install them correctly.

We warm the bath

Bath heaters
Floor insulation in the bath
Summarizing

Bath insulation from the inside: materials

Different rooms of the bath have different requirements, we will focus on the steam room and washing room, the features of which are high temperature and high humidity. Also, the insulation is selected depending on the material of the walls of the bath.

But, regardless of the material of the walls and the purpose of the room, the insulation should be:

Non-toxic, so as not to cause poisoning under the influence of high temperature;
Non-hygroscopic, so as not to absorb moisture;
Resistant to high temperatures and steam;
non-combustible;
Retaining shape even after several years of extreme use;
Resistant to fungus and mold;
Selling at a reasonable price.

Bath heaters

insulation	What room is used	Note
Natural materials: rolled jute, felt, reed and sawdust insulation, moss, tow, etc.	Dressing room, rest room.	Natural materials ignite at high temperatures, therefore they are not suitable for steam and washing rooms. But materials from jute and flax are the best interventional heaters for a chopped bath. There are excellent modern rolled heaters made from natural materials, but they are very expensive, so they are practically not used for warming a bath.
Mineral heaters.	They can insulate any room in the bath. Most often, plate heaters (mats) that are easy to install are used.	Do not rot, serve up to 30 years, fire resistant, inexpensive. It is with such materials that most Russian baths are insulated.
Polymer materials	Masters are not recommended for warming the steam room.	Styrofoam is a wonderful heat insulator, but combustible, and at high temperatures it releases substances harmful to humans. You can not use foam in the steam room. Extruded polystyrene foam or penoplex is considered a safe material (the bath of Russian polar explorers in Antarctica is insulated with it). But masters do not recommend using this material in the steam room either.
Aluminum foil insulation.	It is used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations for a particular room.	The principle of operation of such heaters is the effect of a thermos, the reflection of heat from the walls and ceiling due to the foil. Some types of foil insulation are made specifically for steam rooms and other rooms with high temperatures, while others begin to release harmful substances when the temperature rises. Foil in the bath is used as a vapor barrier.

Warming the ceiling of the bath from the inside

The bath is insulated from the inside in this order: ceiling - walls - floor. The main part of the heat in the bath goes through the ceiling, so

The thickness of the ceiling insulation is twice the thickness of the wall insulation and is at least 10 cm.

Regardless of the material of the walls of the bath, the ceiling is insulated in the same way.

In the insulation of the ceiling, foil is used necessarily.

Insulation of the frame bath from the inside

To insulate the frame bath, rolled mineral insulation is most often used.

The thickness of the insulation depends on the type of operation of the bath: if it is supposed to heat it only in summer, a layer of 5 cm is enough; if you plan to heat the bath all year round, the insulation layer should be 10-15 cm (depending on the climatic zone).
To insulate the walls of the frame bath from the inside:

A heater is laid in the interbeam space of the structure;
The next layer is a vapor barrier (foil);
ventilation gap;
Sheathing.

The foil acts as a vapor barrier, so it is important that even the slightest holes and damages are absent in it, and all joints are well glued with high-quality tape. The tape is always sold with foil, and its quality must be checked in the store (glue the tape to the foil and try to tear it off).

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside: log house

Insulating a chopped and well-caulked bath from the inside will be a tragic mistake. This is not only pointless and destructive for the walls, it contradicts the very idea of a chopped bath.

Log cabins for a bath are made for two reasons:

To get a classic Russian steam bath, which is heated for a long time and keeps the required level of heat and humidity for a long time. It is the tree that accumulates heat and moisture and gradually “gives it away”. In this case, the bath cannot be sheathed from the inside; you will also have to put up with a large consumption of firewood.
For an image. Not a single bath looks as cool as a chopped one. But often you don’t want to waste time and firewood, you want the bathhouse to be heated in an hour, so insulation, vapor barrier and clapboard lining are done. The frame works only as an external frame, the meaning of the material is lost. In this case, it is cheaper and more correct to build a frame bath.

It happens that a person gets a ready-made bath from a log house, and for various reasons it can be cold. Such a bath can be insulated, but only from the outside.

The pie looks like this:

insulation;
wind protection;
vertical crate to create a ventilation gap;
outer cladding.

And from the inside, you can put foil and sheathe it with clapboard, not forgetting about the ventilation gap.

In a chopped bath, only the floor and ceiling are insulated!

If the ceiling of the chopped bath is made of thick boards, it is not necessary to use a heater, but then they pour on the ceiling in a cold attic:

ash;
sand;
expanded clay (it is preferable that the granules are of different sizes);
clay coating.

Insulation from the inside of a brick bath

Brick is not the most suitable material for building a bath, but if there is a brick factory somewhere nearby, then brick baths begin to grow like mushrooms. Due to the high thermal conductivity of the brick, such a bath needs to be insulated without fail. Warming is carried out only from the inside, and to make the bath look cool from the outside, they make decorative stitching.

Usually the cake of the insulated wall of a brick bath looks like this:

brickwork;
waterproofing,
insulation;
vapor barrier;
sheathing.

Waterproofing between brickwork and insulation is optional: if the walls are built correctly and waterproofed from the foundation, they will not dampen. If there is no confidence in the walls, then it is better to do waterproofing.

Insulation on the brick walls of the bath is attached to the frame.

Insulation of a bath from blocks from the inside

For the construction of a bath, durable and moisture-resistant expanded clay concrete blocks are preferred. Warming of such a bath is thought out even at the stage of its construction. The most important thing here is to remove the ice mass of concrete from the heating circuit. There is a technology promoted by our user ZYBY, which allows us to solve this problem by building a frame-wall from boards indented from the walls of the bath. It is suitable for warming all baths with stone walls.

In order to ventilate and dry the space between the frame and the walls, in the walls of the bath, at the top and bottom of the outside, several vents are made. The products are closed for the time while people are steaming in the bath, the rest of the time they are open for drying.

Insulation cake for the steam room and washing room using this technology:

concrete wall with air;
insulation on the frame-wall (with an indent from the concrete wall);
frame-wall;
foil;
finishing with the 50th unedged board (aspen, linden or cedar) to get solid wood in a steam room.

With this approach, you do not have to heat the ice walls. And the insulation will dry out between soarings.

But many owners of a block bath insulate it from the inside traditionally:

concrete wall;
insulation (attached to the frame);
foil;
ventilation gap;
lining.

Such a bath needs insulation from the outside.

Floor insulation in the bath

Precious bath heat also leaves through the floor, so it also needs to be insulated. For floor insulation in the bath, it is recommended to use expanded clay, as the lightest and most environmentally friendly material.

Expanded clay is poured between the layers of the concrete floor as follows:

pour the first layer of concrete;
wait until it is completely frozen;
expanded clay is poured (layer thickness - 10 cm);
install reinforced grating.
pour a layer of concrete;
make a cement-sand screed.

Summarizing

A good bath is a warm bath. And in order for it to warm up well to the desired temperature, it is necessary to choose the right thermal insulation and insulate all structural elements.published

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If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to specialists and readers of our project.

The bath is a rather specific design, in which there are constantly large temperature fluctuations and high humidity. At the same time, all these factors are necessary for the normal functioning of the premises, which means that the structure must adequately tolerate them and even contribute to maintaining the necessary regime.

That is why novice masters often ask questions about how to insulate a bath from the outside and how to properly create the right temperature in all rooms of the building.

Principles of thermal insulation of a structure

First of all, it should be noted that this building has several rooms, which are very different in their functions and require a certain approach in manufacturing. At the same time, the standard insulation of the bath with foam plastic is produced from the outside in the same way as any other building ().

Outer skin

To begin with, the entire structure must be protected from the cold. This is necessary so that when the building is not in use, dampness does not form in it and it does not freeze in winter. At the same time, you can choose any insulation for the bath, but you should definitely sew it up to protect it from moisture.
Recently, modern masters have begun to use special liquid formulations that are simply applied in several layers to the surface and they provide excellent protection from the cold. This solution can be called the most optimal, since it not only reduces the time of work, but also allows you to get rid of unnecessary costs.

Some experts produce warming of the bath with felt. This method turned out to be not very practical and in terms of its functionality it is much inferior to new technologies.
It is worth noting that if the building is made of wood, namely from a bar or rounded log, then inside it should not be protected from the cold so as not to spoil the appearance of the premises. That is why the general insulation of the walls of the bath is done exclusively from the outside. At the same time, such a technical solution will help to correctly distribute the dew point and save the building from the occurrence of condensate.

Advice! If you leave this structure without insulation, as was done in the old days, and at the same time reduce the mode of its use, then the life of the building will be greatly reduced.

Foundation

To qualitatively insulate the bath, special attention should be paid to the base.

It should protect well not only from the cold, but also from dampness coming from below.

If the building stands on a solid strip foundation, then various materials can be used to insulate it, but with mandatory waterproofing. For these purposes, expanded polystyrene is perfect, which is additionally covered with a layer of film.
Such insulation of the foundation of the bath will perfectly keep the temperature and, taking into account the quality of the components included in the material, it will last for quite a long time.
If the structure is installed on a pile foundation, then thermal insulation is carried out during the manufacture of floors. For this, expanded clay is often used, which is pre-treated with bitumen to give it protection from moisture.
It is worth noting that in such cases it is best to make a concrete floor, and it is necessary to install thermal insulation in such a way that a waterproofing layer is located both above and below.

Advice! All work to protect the base is best done immediately after its manufacture. This will greatly facilitate installation.

steam room

When the walls are insulated in the bath, the steam room should be given special attention.

The fact is that in this room you need to constantly maintain the set temperature in order to reduce the cost of bringing the room to the set mode.

All work is carried out inside, protecting the walls, and then sewing them up with finishing material.
It is worth noting that the warming of a steam room in a wooden bath can also be done from the outside, but such work requires the creation of thick layers. This will further increase the cost of labor and material.
It is best to use a special thermal protection, which is equipped with a reflective layer. It will prevent infrared radiation from escaping outside, which will not only serve as protection against heat loss, but will help slightly increase the heating of the room.

It must be remembered that the warming of the steam room of the bath is carried out using special waterproofing, which, when heated, will not emit harmful substances. Recently, a number of special tools have appeared on the building materials market, designed specifically for such premises.

Advice! All work is carried out not only on the walls facing the outside, but also on the interior partition that separates this room.

Attic

Typical insulation of the bath attic is practically no different from the work that is carried out in any stationary buildings. At the same time, special attention is paid to hydro and steam insulation.
As a protection against the cold in this building, it is better to use mounting foam. It is an excellent insulation and is almost completely immune to moisture. However, such a solution is quite costly.
Considering all the features of the attics of the bath, the installation instructions advise you to first lay the film on the surface, and then fill in the expanded clay layer.

Advice! In order to save on foam installation work, the masters recommend not to purchase a special device for its application, but to rent it. Many shops in bulk purchases often provide such services.

Dressing room, washroom and relaxation room

These rooms do not need additional protection from the cold. Usually, the warming of the dressing room is a general protection of the building, which copes well with the task. However, the floor in these rooms should be additionally equipped with thermal insulation.

The fact is that these surfaces are often walked barefoot. Given this, some craftsmen advise installing the simplest heating system. Usually the price of small heating elements is not very high, and the level of comfort will increase several times.

Special attention is paid to the rest room. This room should not cause much difficulty, since the outer protection will cope with the cold quite well. However, some masters try to make this room as comfortable as possible and therefore they produce additional insulation with their own hands, using various types of materials and the method of their installation.

Advice! To save money, professionals do not deal with internal protection from the cold in these rooms. Much easier to produce quality.

Conclusion

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic. Also, based on the text above, we can conclude that it not only has its own characteristics, but also a special choice of material for each room.

Separately, it is worth noting the fact that the warming of the bath in the steam room is carried out separately from other rooms. It is basic and requires protection from all sides, including the ceiling and walls.