How to insulate old wooden windows for the winter with your own hands. How to insulate wooden windows for the winter: the best methods and materials Insulation of windows in an old house

It is good if the houses have modern warm euro-windows, and the temperature outside the window does not drop low even in the cold season. But if everything is wrong, this is absolutely no reason to freeze. We will understand in detail how to insulate old wooden windows.

Why insulate?
Windows, as a rule, become the main source of heat loss for the room. Even if at first glance there are no noticeable holes in double-glazed windows, in fact there are many small slits through which precious heat escapes. In addition, the air is cooled through the thinnest and most vulnerable place of windows - glass. That is why it is so important to insulate a window for the winter.

How to understand what needs to be insulated?

Sometimes problems with windows can be noticed, just by carefully examining them, and then, for example, your eyes will fall on small holes, you will be able to feel that something noticeably pulls a chill from somewhere. But not always visual inspection clarifies the whole picture.

In this case, you can use a convenient modern device - a thermal imager. The mechanism of its action is based on the transfer of infrared radiation, characteristic of any object, into a visible format. The areas of the building on the screen of the device, depending on their temperature, are painted in colors from dark blue to orange-red. Of course, a thermal imager can detect not only problematic windows, but also other places of heat loss in the building, as well as the presence of faulty heaters - in general, any temperature anomalies.

Warming methods

Winterizing windows for the winter should move in two directions:

elimination of all cracks in the frames and between them;
reduction in the thermal conductivity of window glass.

At the same time, it should be understood that even the highest quality wood is greatly destroyed over time, and this is not always noticeable at first sight. Therefore, before insulating old windows, they should not only be carefully examined, but also probed, since a rotten area, a nest of small insects, and some other damage may well be hidden under a well-preserved thin top layer.

Before you insulate windows for the winter with your own hands, pay attention to the temperatures at which external insulation work is carried out. It is important that at this time it was at least +5 ° C outside the window. If the temperature is noticeably lower, this will lead to the fact that adhesive mixtures, foam and other materials and components that are used in repair work are likely to lose their properties or simply freeze if it gets even colder. Everything, of course, depends on the individual characteristics of the material used, so be sure to read the instructions for use before working in the cold.

In general, if a decision is made to carry out insulation work, then it is best to combine them with other window repair work - for example, plastering cracks, eliminating rotten areas, replacing old fasteners, and so on. If you do only one thing, then the result will be noticeably worse. So before you insulate wooden windows for the winter, make a work plan.

And now more about all the weak points of wooden windows and how to insulate and / or repair them.

Seal problems

Sealant - any polymeric rubber-like material mounted around the perimeter of the frame in those places where the sash adjoins it. No matter how precisely the details of the sashes and the frame are made, there will still be small cracks between them, and the presence of a sealant helps protect against heat loss through them.

The type of sealing material, in principle, does not really matter, the main thing is its resistance to temperature extremes and good elasticity. Experienced craftsmen recommend choosing a porous (PPE), rubber or porous rubber tape seal.

If the frame has a special groove for the sealing tape, it is tightly pushed in there, if not, it is nailed with small carnations, placing them quite often.

Space between frame and slope

Although the frame itself can stay even and not show signs of imminent deformation, even fairly large holes can sometimes form between it and the slope (the side surface of the window opening). Close them up most often with a material that is well known even to a person far from construction - polyurethane foam.

If the holes found are larger than 3-4 centimeters, then they should be filled with foam in several steps, or first place a piece of wood, a piece of foam, a brick fragment or other material covering most of the hole. When the foam has completely hardened, its excess is carefully cut off with a sharp knife. If the hole is through, outside the foam should be protected from moisture and exposure to sunlight (from them it melts or crumbles) with an insulating material - a waterproofing profile or plastering and subsequent painting.

The area under the window sill

In general, there is the same principle of operation as in the case of a frame and a slope: the holes are foamed, if necessary, pre-filled with something, preferably with a heater. But there is an important point - if the window sill is light and not very tightly fixed in the wall, then under the influence of expanding foam it can rise. To prevent this from happening, while the foam hardens, it is worth putting something heavy enough there, trying not to break the glass.

Shrinkage or cracking of windows

Wood is a hygroscopic material (absorbing moisture), therefore, with serious fluctuations in temperature and humidity, drying out or, conversely, swelling, it will invariably change its size slightly, and sometimes its shape (for example, bend and warp). Accordingly, in both cases, the sashes will no longer fit so tightly to the frames, gaps will appear, and with them heat loss. Therefore, before insulating old wooden windows for the winter, you need to solve this problem.

It is difficult, if not impossible, to cope with this task with a guarantee, because it will not be possible to get rid of changes in the temperature and humidity regime. It remains only to try to protect the tree from dampness. To do this, it is painted or varnished. And, if the existing coating has noticeably deteriorated and a decision has been made to renew it, the layer of old paint / varnish should be cleaned off. Otherwise, the new coating will lie unevenly, which will be, firstly, unaesthetic, and secondly, much less reliable in terms of protection against moisture. Already existing cracks, if they are large enough in size and do not hide themselves under a layer of paint, are usually sealed with special plaster for wood.

Joints between glass and glazing bead

A glazing bead (a thin wooden element along the edge of the glass that holds it in the frame), despite its small size, can also cause problems. If it has deteriorated - rotted, moldy, damaged by insects, etc. - it is easier and better to replace it, at the same time cleaning and degreasing the space under it. If not, it is enough to apply a layer of sealant along its edge. From a purely aesthetic point of view, it is worth choosing a transparent sealing composition, and for practical reasons - silicone as more resistant to fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

Solving problems with heat loss through glass

It is possible to reduce the thermal conductivity of windows without reducing the amount of light they transmit by using special energy-saving or shrink films that increase heat loss resistance by about 1.5 times - a good and easy way to both insulate wooden windows for the winter and protect yourself from glass fragments in case of glass breaking, which is especially important for residents of the first floors.

The mechanism of operation of the first type of film is the reflection of thermal radiation, due to which in winter the heat from the house does not go outside, and in summer the heat from the street cannot penetrate inside. Such films are glued directly onto the stack lo.

The glass surface is wiped from dust and dirt, degreased.
Remove the protective layer from the film, moisten it and the window with a mild soap solution (this is about a spoonful of detergent per liter of water).
The film is glued, smoothed, squeezed out the air bubbles formed under it.
The excess is trimmed around the edges with a clerical knife.

The shrink film is glued to the frame, and an air gap is formed between it and the glass, which is also very effective as a heat insulator.

How to work with film?

The window is cleaned of dirt and dust, be sure to degrease with soapy water or alcohol-containing compounds.
An adsorbent (silica gel or analogues) must be glued under the lower bead of the window, which will absorb the accumulated condensate, because there will be no way to wipe it.
A strong double-sided adhesive tape is glued around the perimeter of the frame.
The film is glued and straightened, the excess is cut off.

If the windows are painted, then before sticking the film (and indeed before insulating the windows for the winter with your own hands), you should check how firmly the paint holds, otherwise the adhesive tape along with the heat-insulating coating may fall off, nullifying all efforts for insulation.

"Canning" windows

This item refers to the temporary sealing of the perimeter of the window for the winter, when they do not plan to open it. This does not exclude the previously described manipulations to eliminate all cracks and holes, but complements them.

During "preservation" all the gaps between the frames and sashes are clogged with some kind of dense material and glued with adhesive tape or other adhesive tape. The simplest, proven by many years of use and at the same time cheap ways are to put cotton wool, twisted newspaper sheets, small rags, etc. into the slots.

But modern technologies in the field of building and finishing materials allow you to choose from more convenient and effective materials. And we are talking not only about the well-known foam rubber, but also various polymer insulation in the form of long flexible tapes - a great option than to insulate wooden windows additionally. They are available in different sizes, so choosing the right one is not difficult. The principle of working with such a tape was described above - it is pressed into the slots with the help of a narrow, but not sharp tool. With careful use and the choice of high-quality material, such a tape can be used repeatedly.

Another method, for all its effectiveness and cheapness, is very radical and is suitable only if the windows are not planned to be opened before they are replaced with new ones. This method is also the previously mentioned polyurethane foam. It closes all the cracks tightly and reliably, but then it will be very difficult to open the windows, and even more so to clean them from the remnants of the foam.

Summing up

Window insulation can increase the regular temperature in the room by at least 3-4°C. In addition to this, drafts will disappear, dampness in the room and the amount of condensation will decrease. All this will significantly reduce heating costs, as a result, any effort, time and money spent on insulating your old wooden windows will pay off with interest. Therefore, you should not endure the cold, especially since the building materials market offers a large selection of diverse and often very easy-to-use materials for insulation - and there are really a lot of answers to the question of how to insulate wooden windows for the winter.

Windows are "heat holes" - one of the main sources of heat loss in the house, especially when it comes to old wooden windows. The easiest way to insulate your home is to correctly install a new double-glazed window, the heat resistance of which corresponds to your region. If this is not possible, you need to know how to insulate wooden windows with your own hands.

Where are the problems and how to solve them

Heat does not look for complicated ways, but comes out in the simplest way - through thin structures, which are glass and front doors. Even easier, thermal energy “leaves” the premises in case of leaks (in a simple way - cracks) of the above structures. Therefore, do-it-yourself window insulation essentially boils down to:

Ensure tightness (seal cracks and thereby get rid of drafts);
Increase the thermal resistance of windows.

Making windows airtight

Cracks can be everywhere. You need to pay attention to:

Worn seal;
Joints between the frame and the slope (both inside and outside);
Joints between the frame and sashes;
Joints between glass and glazing beads;
The area under the window sill.

In the case of plastic windows, special attention should be paid to the first and last two points. You should not rely only on external examination: from improvised means, you need to use a lit match or present a wet palm.

So, the meaning of the work is simple: you need to get rid of the cracks, which our grandparents still do every winter. Windows are washed before each procedure, the surface is degreased (you can use honey alcohol). Further work is carried out with gloves, you need to have a damp cloth and spatula on hand.

sealant

You need to buy a porous (PPE), rubber or porous rubber tape seal. The last two are the most durable. Peeled off the old one, cleaned the surface, pasted a new one. If tape seals cannot be placed on the frame, you can use q-lon seals, which are wooden profiles with polyurethane edges. Their installation is carried out inside the frame: a q-lon seal of the desired size is cut off at an angle of 45 degrees and nailed with ordinary 2d (2.5 cm) nails in a wide strip onto the frame, close to the sash.

Joints between frame and slope

If gaps are found here, they must be filled with mounting foam. If the gap is more than 2 cm in width, along with the foam, you need to use foam, cotton wool, foam rubber and other materials cut out slightly smaller than the size of the gap itself and tightly inserted immediately after foaming and foamed over, or first inserted and then foamed. It is important to note here that mounting foam is afraid of moisture, UV radiation and much more, so it must be protected, both inside and, especially, outside. To do this, use special waterproofing profiles or plaster / putty and paint over the foam. If the gap is less than 0.5 cm, which does not allow the nozzle of the foam gun to be inserted, the gap is filled with foam rubber, and a sealant is applied on top, which is then leveled with a spatula flush with the slope.

Joints between frame and sashes

Over time, a wooden frame, especially made of solid bars, swells, cracks, which greatly affects the tightness. If the frame and sashes look very worn out, especially from the side of the street, then it is better to restore them: remove the sashes, dismantle the glazing beads, remove the glass, remove the putty, clean the surface of old layers of paint, wash and degrease the windows, apply sealant to the rebate, insert windows, fix new glazing beads, paint the sash and frame. As a temporary (read: permanent) measure, seal windows tightly with masking tape or cloth / paper smeared with soap or diluted starch. That is, exactly as our grandfathers and grandmothers did and still do.

Joints between glass and glazing beads

If they are found, you need to remove the glass, clean and degrease the fold, apply a transparent silicone sealant to it, insert the glass back and fix it with new glazing beads. If the glazing beads are in good condition and you do not want to take out the glass, you can apply sealant around the perimeter of the glass directly to the glazing beads.

The area under the window sill

The gaps here are filled with mounting foam, which is then cut flush and painted over. At the same time, they try to remove the former foam, in the case of wooden windows, to the maximum. In large gaps, it is better to first insert a heater (polystyrene, cotton wool, etc.), and then blow out the remaining gaps with foam. It is important to consider here that the foam, when expanded, can raise the window sill, so it must be loaded by placing, for example, a bucket of water. After drying, the foam is cut flush with the wall and puttied.

Increasing the thermal resistance of windows

For these purposes, you can use:

Heat-shrinkable heat-insulating films;
Energy saving films.

Shrink thermal insulation films are ordinary-looking films, transparent, not as dense as energy-saving ones. They do not retain thermal radiation, do not protect against fading and UV rays, but due to fixation on the frame and thus the formation of an air gap between the glass and the film, they allow, as it were, to make an additional chamber, which increases the thermal resistance of the window. As you know, the best heat insulator is air, of course, after special gases and vacuum.

Energy-saving films reflect thermal radiation, which allows you to avoid significant heat loss in winter and heat penetration into the room - in summer. In addition, they filter the sun's rays, protecting residents, furniture and plants from UV radiation and the latter from fading. Looks dense, with a slight tinting effect. They are usually glued to glass.

How will they help if expressed in numbers? The thermal resistance of glass in old wooden frames is no more than 0.3 m2K / W, the thermal resistance of an energy-saving film is 0.17, if you add these coefficients of thermal resistance, you get 0.47 m2K / W, which will be similar to the thermal resistance of a double-glazed window. Theoretically, the heat resistance indicators will be similar when using a heat-shrinkable heat-insulating film, but already without the “bonuses” that an energy-saving film gives. Many prefer energy-saving films and do not regret their choice.

Installation of heat-shrinkable heat-insulating film

Glass and frame are cleaned and degreased;
An adsorbent is glued under the windows on the lower bead;
Double-sided adhesive tape is glued along the perimeter of the window glazing beads;
A heat-insulating film cut to size (+ margin) is fixed on the adhesive tape;
The film is smoothed, “wrinkles” are removed with a hair dryer, excess is cut off.

The first point shouldn't be a problem. You can degrease glass, wood, plastic with alcohol bought at a pharmacy (sold under the guise of antiseptic solutions).

The adsorbent is a very important component. Condensation will form on the glass in severe frosts. They say that the windows “sweat”, and when drops flow down the glass, they “cry”. Even the double-glazed window “cries”, but this problem is quite easy to deal with: I took a rag and wiped the window. However, you can’t wipe the window any more when the film is pasted on it. Therefore, adsorbents are used for moisture absorption - silica gels, aluminum gels, etc. By the way, manufacturers also use adsorbents in double-glazed windows, so they do not sweat from the inside. In addition, the higher the thermal resistance of the window, the lower the likelihood of condensation.

Double-sided adhesive tape is glued onto the glazing beads, at least 1 cm wide, with a smaller width, two strips of adhesive tape are glued. Next, prepare the film: cut it to the size of the glass, with a margin for adhesive tape and another + 2–3 additional centimeters for the convenience of the sticker. If the film is folded in half, you need to expand it and subsequently glue it with the outside into the room, the inside - respectively, to the window. Keep in mind that the film must also remain clean, otherwise stains and hairs will be an eyesore for years. So, the film was unfolded, cut to the desired size, then you need to stick it on double-sided tape, removing the protective strips from the latter. You can remove the protective strips from all strips of tape at once, or you can do it gradually. However, this is not critical, since then all the “wrinkles” can be smoothed out with a hairdryer, and uneven edges can be cut with a knife.

The film is carefully smoothed around the edges with a cloth. The film is stretched and all “wrinkles” are removed with a conventional hair dryer, directing warm air from the center of the film to the sides. At the same time, the hair dryer is kept as close to the film as possible (it is heat-shrinkable, everything will be fine with it).

Installation of energy-saving film

Washing and degreasing windows;
Cutting the film, wetting the window with a weak soapy solution, removing the protective layer from the energy-saving film and wetting the adhesive side of the film with the same solution;
Sticker and leveling, cutting off excess film.

Let's go straight to the second point. Weak soap solution: 1 tbsp. l. liquid soap or baby shampoo per 1 liter of water. The solution must be sprayed onto windows and film using a spray gun. The more solution, the easier it will be to stick and align the film. The protective film layer is a thin polymer layer that protects the adhesive side of the film.

Installation of energy-saving film is easier and more reliable for two people. Prepare a rubber forcing, silicone grout, or a regular spatula, the sharp end of which will be wrapped in a cloth. Then cut the film to fit the glass, leaving at least 1 cm to spare. So, one holds the film, the other removes the protective layer and wets the adhesive side.

The installation of the film, as a rule, begins from the upper left corner: we glued the upper left corner, hold the glued end and adjust the film parallel to the upper window glazing bead, glued the other corner, and then in the middle from top to bottom we go through forcing, then from the middle to the sides and corners, expelling bubbles. The last step is trimming the excess film. The film is slightly peeled off and with a sharp clerical or construction knife, the excess is cut flush with the glazing bead. You can do it in any other way convenient for you. It is only important not to leave scratches on the glass and not to cut the rubber seals under the glazing bead.

The result of all work: no drafts, no condensation, no frost, no heat in the room.

How to insulate old wooden windows for the winter with your own hands?

It is the window in the house that is considered the most important source of safety or waste of heat, especially in the cold season. Today, people are trying to insulate themselves in all sorts of ways, including replacing old Soviet windows with more modern and insulated metal-plastic ones. But even the owners of plastic windows do not always achieve the desired result, what can we say about those who still do not want to give up wooden windows. And how to insulate wooden windows so that cold and frost do not take apartment owners by surprise.

How can you insulate wooden windows at home at minimal cost?

If you have wooden windows constantly blowing in cold weather, and heat escapes through them, it does not mean that you need to urgently abandon them, save money and replace them with metal-plastic materials. If you look, then absolutely everyone can insulate their windows and at the same time not spend too much money. To achieve the goal, it is enough to have some materials that can be purchased at any hardware store:

Sanitary transparent sealant.
Mortise tubular insulation. If this is difficult to find, then you can use a rubber pipe, the diameter of which should vary between 6-10 mm. This is window insulation using Swedish technology.
Tape insulation, which is a yellow tape that is glued on both sides. It can be found at any market or hardware store.
Flat foam rubber, the width of which reaches at least 4 cm.
Polyethylene foam tape (7-10 cm wide). You can use the remnants of the material that is used during the installation of the laminate. If this is not at hand, then ordinary masking tape will work.
Screwdriver.
A stapler designed for furniture work.
Putty knife.
Scissors.

Step-by-step process of warming wooden windows

Thermal insulation of wooden windows consists of several stages:

In order to start work, you need to open absolutely all the sashes of wooden windows and open the tightening bolts.
Thoroughly rinse and dry all glass and existing frames.
Clean the frame using a spatula. Maximum attention should be paid to the joints where they are interconnected.
Next, you can proceed to the processing of the inner frames of the windows with insulation tape (between the panes). After that, you should connect the window, holding it and tightening the bolts intensively. After the manipulations, you need to check how well the window has been insulated, whether there is enough material, whether the frames lie tightly to each other. If at least one point is poorly executed, then the bolts must be untwisted again and a warming tape added, since there should in no case be any gaps and gaps.
If the window sash will remain stationary, then tape insulation will be ideal for sealing, however, if not, then it is better to use tubular insulation. To install it, it is enough to attach it to the frame, firmly press the sashes, and then turn its lock. To complete the work, you should check whether all the latches are included in the window mounting strips.
For the window, it is more expedient to repeat the manipulations of internal insulation, and where it is connected to the frame, it is better to use tubular material. Since in this place the window is constantly in motion (closing and opening), the tubular insulation will create a high-quality seal. The installation goes like this: if a mortise insulation is used, then it is better to fix it in the groove. If it is impossible to cut a groove, then it is worth separating the tube from the tubular material and installing it on the window frame and window leaf using a stapler.
After all the work done, you need to check the functionality of windows and vents. If all the manipulations went well, then the window will not let in heat and let in cold air during cold weather, and they will also sweat much less.

The above method describes one of the most reliable ways of warming. Now, when the question arises of how to insulate wooden windows for the winter, the owner will be informed.

Video on how to insulate wooden windows

Insulation of old wooden windows

Careful care of wooden windows can lead to the fact that they will serve faithfully for many years. However, over a long period, the wood tends to dry out, and at this time gaps and miniature cracks form, and the gaps between glass and glazing beads increase. All these little things begin to manifest themselves in all their glory with the advent of autumn and the first cold weather, when the breeze crawls through the cracks of the windows. If the insulation is good, then few people are worried about this factor, however, what should the owners of old wooden windows do. Is it possible to carry out the insulation of wooden windows with your own hands in order to keep the precious heat inside the room. Even our grandfathers knew how to insulate windows for the winter, their advice is relevant in our time.

Newspaper strips

One of the most ancient and at the same time effective ways that answers the question of how to insulate old wooden windows for the winter is the use of newspapers and strips of paper. They were used by our ancestors. The cracks in the windows were clogged with old unnecessary newspapers, which were soaked in water before the procedure and twisted into a kind of tube. And on top, at the joints of the glass with the frame and the sash, strips of paper were glued, which were smeared in a solution of laundry soap.

Although this method makes it possible to insulate the window for a while, it carries more minuses than pluses. The main disadvantage is that during the onset of spring it is difficult to separate the material from the windows without damaging the paint or simply tear off the remnants of paper from the frames. In order not to damage the coating, it is necessary to moisten it with water before dismantling the paper insulation.

Cotton wool and fabric

Another "old-fashioned method" is the use of cotton wool and fabric, which came to replace newspaper tubes. All existing gaps in the frames are completely clogged with technical wool, which are then sealed with fabric strips pre-soaked in soapy water. Cotton wool itself is an excellent heat insulator, besides, it easily falls behind the frames during the “spring cleaning”, without damaging the window coverings and without leaving unpleasant streaks and marks.

Until today, this method is used in many families because of its high efficiency, and the materials needed for the process can be bought at any hardware store at an affordable price.

Video on how to insulate old wooden windows for the winter

Heat-saving film

Another way to describe how to insulate wooden windows is to use heat-saving film. More recently, they began to mount a film on the windows, which is installed on the window glass using a self-adhesive base. This film several times reduces the heat consumption during the period of cold weather, and in the summer it retains the desired coolness well. It should be noted that this method is used on all types of windows, including metal-plastic and wooden ones. The film passes the required amount of light through itself into the room and at the same time prevents heat from escaping from the room, reflecting it back through the surface of the film. Thus, the owners save 60% of the heat that enters and exits through the glass.

Such budget methods will help you decide how to insulate old windows without spending a lot of money.

Is it advisable to repair and insulate old wooden windows?

Today, a lot of companies have appeared that specialize in the insulation and restoration of old windows. They give a guarantee that the updated windows will keep warm and function no worse than metal-plastic ones, but is this true? Repair, one way or another, is a good idea, and warming the room is even better. Through dilapidated wooden frames, people lose 60% of home heat and, of course, they try by all means to prevent this. One of the most effective ways is to repair and insulate old wooden windows. Window repair includes fitting frames and sashes, removing old paintwork, impregnating wood, painting (after all, you need to renew the coating every three years, however, few people do this).

In addition to the above, seals are mounted on the sashes, which in some way get rid of the cracks formed and, of course, from harmful drafts. However, not for a long time, because after a while the tree begins to dry out again without specialized treatment with impregnation and paint.

If a wooden window is properly looked after and the measures taken during this process are not forgotten, then the wooden window will successfully stand for many more years, and will not let in so much heat.

Do you also insulate old wooden windows every winter? What is the most reliable way for you? Share your experience in the comments.

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How to insulate a wooden window for the winter with your own hands - what is the best way to cover it?

If wood frames are well cared for, they can last for decades. It is much easier to seal small cracks with sealant than a year later, when the deformation and split will go deeper to change the crumpled frame. Therefore, before the onset of the cold season, you need to carefully inspect the window frames and put them in order.

Before you start warming the frame with any of the possible materials, you must first prepare it:

Ventilate and dry the room well.
Wash, dry and degrease the glass.
If such a need arises, replace the glazing beads.
Prepare all the materials in the right amount for insulation.

Old methods of window insulation are practically not inferior to modern ones, although the latter have a more aesthetic appearance.

It is necessary to insulate wooden frames in a number of cases:

If the frames were made from raw wood.
The frame was created from solid wooden blocks that react to humidity and temperature changes.
Old dilapidated wooden frames, the glass on which rattles when opening and closing.
When the door and windows are tightly closed, a draft is felt in the room.
If the batteries are hot around the clock, but the room is still cool.

By insulating wooden frames, you can reduce heat loss by as much as 47%.

It is best to insulate wooden frames immediately before the start of the heating season. As soon as the outdoor temperature starts to drop to +70C and below, and dampness and drafts begin to be felt in the room, this is a signal that it is time to restore and insulate the frames.

You should not expect frosts, as the glass may become covered with frost, and the wood will freeze and decrease slightly in volume.

If a sealant is applied to such a deformed supercooled surface, then with the onset of heat, when the wooden frame wants to expand again, it will cause subsequent deformations, cracks and destruction of the frame.

Do-it-yourself work

The oldest and most proven methods of insulating windows with old newspapers and strips have long proven their worth.

Plug all the cracks with a rag or crumpled newspaper, and cover with paper tape or fabric strips on top. You can glue the latter with the help of the remnants of wallpaper glue, laundry soap or a mixture of flour and water.

If you want to quickly deal with drafts, then use paper tape - this is perhaps the easiest way to insulate wooden windows.

Absolutely all types of window insulation can be done by someone who has locksmith skills. If the owner knows how to handle a hammer and nails, then he will be able to insulate the old wooden frame.

Even schoolchildren are able to insulate the opening with the help of a newspaper and paper strips. The same applies to insulation with cotton wool and fabric strips, as well as foam rubber and adhesive tape.

But when working with sealant, paraffin, pipe profiles, some preparation is already needed. These methods of warming a wooden window are best left to a specialist.

How to find the location of an air leak?

It is very important to locate the cracks and seal them with insulating material.

No matter how old a window is, there are certain ways in which heat can be lost.

To find the place of air leakage, carefully inspect places such as:

slopes;
beams above the windows;
window sills;
double-glazed window;

Slopes during insulation always pay a lot of attention. If the frame was originally installed correctly, then over time, only small gaps may appear between the wall and the frame. But almost no one looks under the window sill, although heat loss due to cracks under it can be enormous.

Everyone chooses the method of warming old wooden windows that is most affordable and to their liking. Someone likes to glue windows the old fashioned way, while others prefer a more modern approach.

Heaters

Judging by the physical and technical characteristics, PVC is considered the best insulation.

You can choose insulation for your wooden windows from the following list:

newspapers and paper strips;
cotton wool and fabric strips;
foam rubber and adhesive tape;
paraffin;
sealant;
heat-saving film;

Materials for warming a wooden window can be:

pipe profiles;
gaskets;

The latter are subdivided depending on the material of insulation into:

rubber;
polyvinyl chloride, or PVC;
polyurethane;
polyethylene foam;
foam;

If it was decided to insulate the frame with a profile, then it can be selected depending on the size of the gap:

Type E, or tubular profile, designed to seal small, narrow gaps.
Type P, for medium gaps.
Type D, or the well-known insulating material that is needed to eliminate wide gaps.

The choice of material for insulating a wooden window directly depends on the nature of the problem that you want to fix:

If there are gaps and cracks in the window frames, then they can be repaired with liquid nails or liquid wood. The latter is much cheaper, but will last only one season if used on the outer window frame and up to five years when applied to the inner frame.
As practice shows, foam rubber in itself is not an effective sealant, so it must be used together with adhesive tape.
The best method for filling large gaps in the window sill and frame is polyurethane foam.

They differ from rubber in better frost resistance. Polyvinyl chloride is not subject to deformation and does not crumble at sub-zero temperatures.

In the case when you need durability from the material, it is better to stop at rubber seals, and if you also want your window to be environmentally friendly, then rubber is what will suit you.

Advice! If you are going to insulate with a rubber pipe profile, then choose the softest one.

Price

The cheapest thing to do is to insulate wooden frames yourself. Thus, you will only spend money on materials. If there is no time or the necessary skill, then you can use the services of specialists.

Insulation cost:

Single-leaf window from 2800 rubles.
Bivalve - from 4200 rubles.
Three-leaved - from 5000 rubles.

Prices for repairman services may vary slightly depending on the city where you live and the condition of the wooden window.

How to use correctly?

When the cracks are treated with a sealant, its consumption is approximately one drop per centimeter. An hour later, the operation is repeated.

Even the sealant needs to know how to choose. Take, for example, foam rubber, during the purchase of which you need to check its ability to retain air.

To do this, bring a piece of foam rubber to your lips and blow on it. If you feel resistance to air flow, then this material is ideal for insulation.

While the sealant has not hardened, its excess can be easily removed with a damp cloth, but if you missed this moment, then use a safety razor to remove it.

If you want to restore an old wooden frame and reduce heat loss, then follow these recommendations:

Using a small knife, remove the glazing beads.
Wear work gloves and carefully remove the glass.
Clean the grooves where the glass was inserted.
Wait until the wood is airy and dry.
Fill the groove with sealant and install the glass.
Drive in new glazing beads very carefully.

In such a simple way, you can restore the frame well and reduce heat loss.

Heat from the room can escape not only through the cracks of the windows, but also through the front door. Therefore, make sure that it does not let air through.
Do not forget that with the help of thick curtains you can also reduce heat loss. They will protect your room from drafts.
In addition to window frames, you should also inspect the slopes and the window sill area, where there are also often gaps.
If you are trying to insulate the windows in a rustic house, then think about the possibility of introducing such a useful decor item as shutters. They will save the room not only from drafts, but also from thieves.

househill.ru

How to insulate old wooden windows for the winter

Why insulate?

Windows, as a rule, become the main source of heat loss for the room. Even if at first glance there are no noticeable holes in double-glazed windows, in fact there are many small slits through which precious heat escapes. In addition, the air is cooled through the thinnest and most vulnerable place of windows - glass. That is why it is so important to insulate a window for the winter.

How to understand what needs to be insulated?

Warming methods

Winterizing windows for the winter should move in two directions:

elimination of all cracks in the frames and between them;
reduction in the thermal conductivity of window glass.

Before you insulate windows for the winter with your own hands, pay attention to the temperatures at which external insulation work is carried out. It is important that at this time it was at least +5 ° C outside the window. If the temperature is noticeably lower, this will lead to the fact that adhesive mixtures, foam and other materials and components that are used in repair work are likely to lose their properties or simply freeze if it gets even colder. Everything, of course, depends on the individual characteristics of the material used, so be sure to read the instructions for use before working in the cold.

And now more about all the weak points of wooden windows and how to insulate and / or repair them.

Seal problems

If the frame has a special groove for the sealing tape, it is tightly pushed in there, if not, it is nailed with small carnations, placing them quite often.

Space between frame and slope

The area under the window sill

Shrinkage or cracking of windows

Joints between glass and glazing bead

Solving problems with heat loss through glass

The glass surface is wiped from dust and dirt, degreased.
Remove the protective layer from the film, moisten it and the window with a mild soap solution (this is about a spoonful of detergent per liter of water).
The film is glued, smoothed, squeezed out the air bubbles formed under it.
The excess is trimmed around the edges with a clerical knife.

The shrink film is glued to the frame, and an air gap is formed between it and the glass, which is also very effective as a heat insulator.

How to work with film?

The window is cleaned of dirt and dust, be sure to degrease with soapy water or alcohol-containing compounds.
An adsorbent (silica gel or analogues) must be glued under the lower bead of the window, which will absorb the accumulated condensate, because there will be no way to wipe it.
A strong double-sided adhesive tape is glued around the perimeter of the frame.
The film is glued and straightened, the excess is cut off.

If the windows are painted, then before sticking the film (and indeed before insulating the windows for the winter with your own hands), you should check how firmly the paint holds, otherwise the adhesive tape along with the heat-insulating coating may fall off, nullifying all efforts for insulation.

"Canning" windows

Summing up

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof

Have you heard that in England many houses still have old, single wooden windows? And it's not because there's no money to replace it. The English are tributaries of tradition. By the way, Voltaire chairs with high backs are designed to protect old people from drafts that constantly walk in the room. Another thing is the Russian people. He would be happy to put plastic, but there is no way. And according to this - the insulation of old windows is not a tribute to tradition, but an everyday necessity.

We are talking about the insulation of window frames, because hardly anyone insulates new wooden ones. For comparison, in Moscow, a PVC window measuring 1300 by 1400 mm will cost 8,000 rubles. While a new wooden one will cost as much as 15,000! Hence the conclusion: we are talking about "grandmother's" windows and are looking for relatively budgetary, but effective insulation options.

Approaches to the insulation of old windows

Insulation of old wooden windows can be carried out from the outside and from the inside. If you live in an apartment above the second floor, the latter option is more likely to suit you. However, it is still possible to carry out some work on external insulation.

In the case of wooden windows, there can be several problems:

It can blow from under the windowsill - in this case, the seam of the frame and the window, hidden under the tide, may be a problem.
The reason may be in a bad joint between the sash and the frame (for example, due to skew).
It is possible to blow through the junction of the frame and the wall.
Often in wooden windows it blows from under the glazing bead - the junction of glass and frame.

Each of these problems has its own solution.

materials

Using cotton and tape

When a wooden window is blown around the perimeter or has large gaps in the frame itself, cotton wool and tape are often used. Cotton wool, due to the porous structure, perfectly retains heat. It is inexpensive. In addition, when there is no longer a need for insulation in the spring, cotton can be freely removed from the cracks. Sequence of work:

Cotton wool needs to be tamped into all the cracks;
Slots on top are sealed with special window tape;

Instead of adhesive tape, they used paper moistened with laundry soap or fabric strips. However, this method is becoming a thing of the past with the advent of tapes that do not leave marks on frames.

Remember that wet cotton wool will retain heat very poorly. Therefore, the insulation of wooden windows must be carried out in dry weather or the places where the wool will be laid must be thoroughly dried.

Paraffin

How to insulate old wooden windows with paraffin? Paraffin is a waxy material often used in candles. If you cannot find it for sale in your city, you need to melt an inexpensive candle. This option is suitable for small gaps in the frame itself. If the gap is still large, paraffin can also be used for sealing, but first you need to plug the gap with cotton wool or rope. After that, the molten paraffin is drawn into a large syringe and pumped into the slot. This method was used back in Soviet times and has long been convinced that the wax material retains heat well.

Seals

Insulation for window frames, made more often from foam rubber, has also been used for a long time. There are two types of such materials:

cut strips;
Tube seals.

If the first option is well suited for large gaps - for example, gaps between the frame and the wall, then the second has a self-adhesive base. Such seals are thinner and can be used inside the sash itself. Although, thin strips of foam rubber are also laid in these places.

Learning from bees and using toilet paper

Although this method of window insulation is classified as completely archaic, nevertheless, as a tribute to history, it can also be remembered. Sealing windows with toilet paper is even said to be similar to how bees insulate their hives. Paper contains cellulose, the material that protects bees and is contained in their combs.

To use, the paper must be soaked and placed in the slots. After drying, it will acquire a porous structure and retain air well - the main insulation.

Warming up seriously

If tapes or seals do not solve the problem, use mounting foam. This advice belongs to the category of external insulation of wooden windows with your own hands. It is necessary to carefully remove the ebb. Most often it is fastened with several screws.

Due to the long presence on the street, all fasteners could rust, and the ebb may not be removed. Don't try to tear it off. It is better to be patient, and yet carefully unscrew the screws and remove it. After removal, carefully inspect the seam between the frame and the bottom of the opening. If there is a gap there, it is the cause of significant heat leakage.

For the "reconstruction" of the seam you will need:

Mounting foam;
Vapor barrier film (small piece);
Waterproofing tape;
Primer;
Rag.

Process

Carefully, with a rag, clean the gap from dust and debris. Perhaps there is remnants of mortar or mounting foam. Most often, it's best to completely scrub everything to create a new protective layer.
Apply a layer of primer to the place where the mounting foam will be blown later.
Lay a vapor barrier film.
Apply a sufficient layer of mounting foam.
Lay and secure the waterproofing film with a construction stapler. Waterproofing should ensure a long life of mounting foam, which is afraid of moisture.

If there is a need to close the gaps from the inside, you can make the solution yourself. To do this, mix chalk and building gypsum. Material ratio 1/2. After mixing, it is necessary to dilute the powder with water to the desired consistency.

Additional nuance

Of the four problems listed at the beginning, we have considered three. Fourth left: how to insulate wooden windows if it blows between the glass and the frame.

Once in the article it was already discussed how the "Third Glass" can be used. So this very film will be the solution to our problem. In order not to paint everything again in detail here, follow the link a little higher.

Instruction by example

After discussing different ways, the question arises: how to insulate wooden windows in practice? Let's not delay and let's get started:

Carefully inspect the window and determine the problem. If you have been carrying out the procedure for more than a year, most likely you already know;

Let's take a "moderate" situation as an example. We saw that the frame elements themselves, as well as the joint between the window opening and the frame, need to be sealed.

Let's start with the first problem;
Choose and buy;
We measure the desired size and cut off a piece;
We clean the surface, if necessary, you can wash the frame;
We lay the foam rubber and close the frame;

We turn to solving the second problem - the gaps between the frame and the wall;

Cotton wool or a wide strip of foam rubber can also be hammered into such slots;

Cut off a strip of the desired length from the foam roll;
We hammer it into the slot;
We seal it with a special tape that does not leave marks on the frame.

On this, the insulation of wooden windows can be considered complete. From experience, many owners know that achieving an ideal situation is unlikely to succeed. Although ... Today, more and more often they offer a comprehensive repair of wooden windows.

Complex repair

What does window repair or restoration include? On the example of one company from St. Petersburg, let's see the list of services. So, you can count on:

Installation of new ebbs and window sills;
Strengthening window hinges;
sash adjustment;
Application of Swedish technology for insulation;
Replacing glazing beads;
Window painting.

Nice list, right? Prices are quite reasonable, considering that the service includes the entire package listed. Below is the price list from the website.

Today, plastic windows are increasingly being installed in private houses and city apartments. However, not everyone can or wants to make such a replacement for the usual wooden frames. After all, frames made of natural material are more environmentally friendly, allow you to create the most healthy microclimate in the room. And modern wooden double-glazed windows are no less effective than those made of plastic. However, wooden windows need insulation. This is due to the design features, the deterioration of the performance of the frames themselves and wood. How to insulate wooden windows most effectively?

What result can you expect

To understand the importance of timely insulation of windows, you should remember how offensive it is to feel the currents of cold air in your home when you really want warmth! Low temperatures in winter, wearing warm clothes until the onset of summer, constant drafts are the result of poor window insulation with central heating.

If you have your own boiler for heating the house, you have to pay large bills for gas, while not fully feeling the effectiveness of its use.

But when all the work is done, the result will be an increase in the temperature in the room by 3-5 ° C, and if you use your own device for heating, there will be tangible money savings.

However, the other side of the coin should also be borne in mind: when creating maximum tightness, the natural ventilation of the room will be disrupted. And this is fraught with a lack of access to a sufficient amount of fresh air in the room, a high probability of moisture retention in the house and, as a result, the risk of mold and mildew. To prevent these unpleasant consequences, it is recommended to regularly ventilate the premises in the house, monitor the level of humidity.

Where to begin

The sequence of actions in solving the insulation of windows consists of several stages. The following algorithm will ensure the greatest efficiency and effectiveness of each work:

window inspection;
identification of all places through which heat escapes from the room;
application of the selected method of insulation, depending on the location of heat leaks;
control check of "problem places".

Let's see how each of these steps would look like in practice.

window inspection

Before starting insulation work, it is necessary to conduct a thorough examination of the window. This will give complete information about the condition of window frames, platbands, window sills. What is it for? It's simple: it is these places that become points of penetration of cold into the room. After all, it is known that it is the windows that let in about 1/5 of all the heat from the apartment. And finding these cold bridges before starting work on insulation is our primary goal.

Inspection will require the wood itself. If it is very old, and the climate is not too mild, then it will most likely be damaged. Cracks on it, chips and thinning are the main reason for heat to escape through the frame wood. In this case, especially in the case of severe damage to the tree, the only way to eliminate serious heat loss may be to replace the window frame.

You will also need to inspect the ebbs with slopes. These places can also cause heat loss. This is due to their loose fit to the walls, which means that insulation work will also be required here.

The most comprehensive approach will make it possible to provide the most comfortable conditions in the home, and in winter enjoy the heat without loss.

Direct insulation

Some places of windows need to be insulated from the outside, from the street, and some are insulated from the inside. It depends on the specific location that leads to heat leakage. For example, slopes, window sills and ebbs are best insulated from the outside. For the remaining elements of the window, insulation from the inside of the room will be required.

It should be remembered that to get the perfect window that will not let icy air into the house and will not release heat from the house, you will need to work hard. First of all, this applies to old wooden windows. Often, the wood of the frames on them, with insufficient and untimely care, loses its original qualities. It crumbles, it has numerous cracks and chips. In this case, it is quite difficult to restore the tightness of the window. However, there are measures that will minimize the negative effects of tree changes in windows.

So, let's start warming up. And here you need to figure out the methods that will ensure the best elimination of heat leaks. After all, along with the long-established options for warming wooden windows, which were used by our grandmothers, more modern methods are being offered today. Consider the most effective and popular options.

The most famous way is warming with newspapers.

With the help of newspapers, wooden windows were very often insulated in the past. However, even now, especially with a significant budget constraint, this method is often used.

Insulation of wooden windows with this method can be carried out using both old newspapers and unnecessary wallpaper, paper waste. They are torn into large pieces, from which the flagella are twisted and fit into the cracks in the window frame. To seal such a bookmark, any sharp tool is used: a screwdriver, a knife, a ruler.

The second option when using old newspapers and wallpaper, which is used to insulate old wooden windows, is to finely grind paper waste and soak it in water. After the paper is pressed, mixed with two parts of chalk or one part of clay. It turns out a kind of putty with a good indicator of plasticity and density. It is introduced into the cracks in the frames, compacted and left to dry completely.

Both types of paper insulation hold heat well, preventing cold air from entering the room. The old-fashioned method of such insulation involves gluing paper insulation with a strip of paper or fabric. Today, masking tape, which is easier to use, or tape can be used instead.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantage of this method of insulation should be considered the need for minimal financial costs. However, for gluing with paper or fabric strips, you will need to make a special paste yourself, for which water and flour are mixed in equal amounts. The mixture is thoroughly mixed and brought to a boil. Alternatively, a solution of laundry soap can be used. And that's a lot of work.

The disadvantages of the method include the inability to open windows for ventilation. In the spring, you will have to remove the pasting, remove the insulation. Often, when removing the pasting, part of the paint is removed from the wooden frames along with it. Then you will need to paint the damaged areas. And if they are in poor condition and tend to crumble, a part of the tree is also removed, which further worsens the condition of the windows.

We insulate windows with cotton wool, linen cord, foam rubber tapes

Such insulation of wooden windows with your own hands is similar to the previous one, only instead of paper waste, cotton wool, linen cord or foam rubber cut into ribbons are used. These materials provide the best preservation of heat inside the room, preventing its loss. They are more convenient to lay even in small cracks.

From above, cotton wool, cord or foam rubber is pasted over with strips of fabric or paper. Can also be used as a pasting tape or masking tape.

Advantages and disadvantages

A more aesthetic appearance of wooden frames when the layers of materials used are located in them. Ease of working with them, no dirt and the need to grind this material before laying.

The disadvantages are similar to the previous method:

inability to open windows for ventilation;
damage to the paint and the tree itself at the time of removal of this type of insulation;
the need to restore the surface of the frames and the coating on them after removing the pasting from them.

Using sticky foam tapes

However, foam tapes, which have a sticky base, will allow insulation to be carried out more quickly and efficiently. Due to the sticky layer, the material is quickly attached to the surface of the frame at the location of the cracks. It perfectly holds foam rubber, preventing it from falling out of cracks and places where cold bridges appear.

To perform this type of insulation, you will need to first clean the surfaces on which the self-adhesive foam rubber tape will be attached. Removing the fat layer will allow you to especially firmly fix the tape.

Advantages and disadvantages

The speed of the method, low labor costs and cash investments (such sticky-based foam rubber is inexpensive), ease of removal if necessary, and the ability to ventilate the room are the most important advantages of the considered method.

The downside is the need to stick such a tape in large gaps in several layers. This increases labor costs and cash investments.

Polymer seals

Sealing cords can be used instead of sticky foam tape. There are several varieties of them:

polyethylene foam;
polyvinyl chloride;
polyurethane;
rubber.

These modern materials for performing the insulation of wooden windows have proven themselves well. They provide the greatest tightness of window frames, not passing warm air from inside and cold air from outside.

The rubber seal is the least expensive and provides excellent heat retention. The disadvantage of rubber should be considered its reaction to low air temperature and frost: it becomes brittle and can deform and crack. However, rubber seals have high wear resistance. This means that it will be more correct to install them on windows that open and close most often.

Other types of seals have a higher price, but are less responsive to frost and prolonged exposure to sunlight.

swedish technology

Swedish technology is considered the most progressive. Insulation for wooden windows is also used here, however, for its better fixation, special recesses are first made in the frames.

Insulation of wooden windows using Swedish technology is carried out in the following sequence:

removal and dismantling of wooden frames;
using a cutter, a groove for the seal is made. The size of the cutter is determined by the shape and size of the seal used;
now a sealant is laid in the prepared grooves. Glue is not needed here, since the seal holds perfectly in the groove due to its design and shape;
silicone sealant is used to seal the junction of the window glass and the frame;
if necessary, replacement of old fittings and glass in the window is carried out;
then it remains to put the sash in place.

The Swedish technology has proved its worth even in harsh winters. Significant heat loss, prevention of drafts in a residential area, the duration of the preservation of insulating properties (15-20 years) are the most important advantages of the considered method of warming wooden windows. Soundproofing can also be added here. The Swedish method will require certain material investments, but its advantages and the durability of the resulting seal exceed the probable disadvantages of the technique.

You can also insulate wooden windows using Swedish technology with your own hands, but for this you need to have certain carpentry skills. In their absence or self-doubt, it is recommended to contact specialists. They will perform the insulation using this method most quickly and efficiently, and will also provide a guarantee for the quality of their work.

The above options for insulating wooden windows and sealing the junctions of window glass and the frame can reduce heat loss and restore the tightness of windows. Depending on financial capabilities, one of these methods can be used, they all have many positive reviews and can be used quite simply.

Plastic windows entered our life not so long ago. In the 2000s, a boom began in Russia for the installation of blocks with sealed double-glazed windows with improved thermal insulation properties. But for various reasons, people still use the old frames. With the advent of cold weather, many are concerned about the question of how to insulate wooden windows for the winter so as not to increase the heating fee and at the same time maintain a comfortable temperature in the premises.

Traditional wooden windows undoubtedly have advantages. They are durable, environmentally friendly, inexpensive, allow the room to "breathe". It is the porosity of wood and the leakage of structures that contribute to air exchange with the street. But during the heating season, part of the heat is released into the atmosphere through cracks and gaps, increasing heating costs. You can solve this problem if you insulate wooden windows for the winter with your own hands.

The design of a conventional window block consists of a box, binding, platbands, vents, strapping. The glass is held in place with a glazing bead. Wooden elements dry out and warp over time, especially poor-quality, poorly dried wood before processing. Drafts and cold air freely penetrate into the gaps formed.

At the time of mass building, when installing windows, the requirements of GOST for sealing the seams between the box and the wall were not always observed. But even joints made according to the standards after decades of operation require repair due to shrinkage of structures, wear of sealing materials.

Another way of heat loss is through glazing. The thermal conductivity coefficient of the most common quartz glass is 1-1.4 W / (m ° C). With a thickness of 4-5 mm and installation in 2 layers, sufficient protection of the room from cooling through the windows is provided.

Important. Through thinner glass or “one-string” glazing, energy does not linger inside the house, but enters the street directly.

Knowing the weak points, it is easier to understand how and how to insulate old wooden windows for the winter.

Seasonal insulation with improvised means

Energy losses in winter cold can reach 60%. This is an amount that is simply thrown away. To save resources, they carry out seasonal insulation of windows with sealing joints with all sorts of improvised means. The gaps are filled with:

rags;
foam rubber cut into strips;
synthetic or natural fiber;
paper shredded and soaked in water.

Carefully compact the materials with a knife or ruler. Paste over with paper or cloth tapes, impregnating them with flour paste, soapy water or kefir. A more technological option is to use PVC-based adhesive tape.

These methods help to achieve relative tightness of the window block. But they have two significant disadvantages - firstly, this is laborious work, and secondly, after the winter season, the frames need to be freed from sealing materials, the tapes must be torn off, which is also tiring.

The use of seals

You can insulate wooden windows for the winter with your own hands not only with improvised means. The industry for these purposes produces elastic rubber or foam rubber tapes, tubes or cords made of silicone rubber, sealing mixtures.

The easiest way is to lay a self-adhesive foam tape along all joints and gaps. The technology is as follows:

Slots are cleaned of dust.
Degrease surfaces with alcohol or solvent.
Carefully stick a strip of foam rubber.
Close the sashes and, if necessary, seal the tape with a knife.
Glue the joint on top with paper or polymer tape.

A Swedish technique is known, in which a narrow groove is chosen for laying a sealant in a wooden binding. Use a straight grinder with a cutter.

A rubber or silicone elastic profile is placed in the channel, filling it with a special seaming tool. The seal is equipped with a stiffening rib and a notched protrusion that prevents the material from jumping out of the groove.

The Swedish method of warming wooden windows is convenient because when the sashes are opened, the elastic profile remains in place. Such a system serves more than one season. In summer, the seal protects the room from dust, and an additional soundproof barrier is created.

Sealing with glue or non-expanding foam is a dubious method, but many people use it with success. It consists in applying the product to the joint surface and additional padding on top of the paper layer.

While the foam is still plastic, the window is closed. The gap is absolutely not blown through, and the paper sheet protects the sashes from sticking.

Protection of joints between frame and glass

Chattering glass is the main sign of leaky window binding. The joints are insulated in various ways, depending on the safety of the glazing beads:

Without removing the glass, dismantle the glazing bead. Lubricate the perimeter with silicone transparent sealant. Install a thin rail in place, nailing it with small carnations or planting it on glue.
If the bead is well fixed, just carefully fill the joint with glue.
Melt a paraffin candle in a water bath. Pour the liquid mass with a syringe into all gaps. After hardening, the excess is cut off with a knife.
If the glazing beads are destroyed, then the glass is removed, the recess is filled with window putty and installed back. The binding is framed with new glazing beads, the frame is painted.

At the same time, you can replace the glass with thicker ones.

If aesthetics are not important, the joints can be sealed with any adhesive tape. This is a fast, but short-lived way. Condensation forms on the glass surface, which causes the strip to peel off.

Window perimeter insulation

In addition to the joints in the frame structure itself, the seams between the window block and the wall of the house are insulated. For this, mounting foam is used, which hermetically fills even wide gaps:

under the windowsill;
between the slope and the frame;
above the window.

Foam must be blown from the outside and inside of the structure. The tube is inserted into the lumen and, pressing on the cap, fill the crevice with sealant. After hardening, the excess is cut off, the surface is plastered and painted.

Glass thermal protection

When you are done with the cracks, you should think about how to insulate wooden windows for the winter with a thermal protective film for glass. In modern energy-saving double-glazed windows, this function is performed by silver oxide sputtering. A thin mirror layer transmits a certain part of the solar spectrum and reflects infrared radiation back into the room, keeping warm in winter and cool in summer.

To insulate window glass in stores, they sell a self-adhesive thin film. It is made from polymers with the addition of nanoparticles of gold, silver or chromium-nickel alloy.

Important. Manufacturers claim that the use of thermal protection saves up to 30% of energy.

The film has a reinforcing effect - glass is difficult to break, and fragments fixed on a polymer base do not scatter in different directions upon impact.

Thermal film installation

Films are mounted in two ways:

using double-sided tape;
sticking to soapy water.

Stages of installing a thermal film on a solution:

Rinse and dry the window.
A colorless soapy solution is applied to the glass from a spray bottle.
Cutting the film to fit the glass
The upper edge is applied and the film is leveled over the entire surface with a rubber roller, squeezing out air bubbles and excess soap.

Self-adhesive film is mounted in the same way, only without wetting the glass.

The shrink film is glued to double-sided tape, then blown with a hot hair dryer. Creases and bubbles are smoothed out, and the air layer between the glass and the material creates an additional insulating effect.

With all its advantages, energy-saving film is recommended to be used only in winter. It prevents the penetration of warm sunlight, reflects radio signals, which worsens mobile communications in the house. If flowers grow on the windowsill, the absence of ultraviolet radiation affects them detrimentally.

Do-it-yourself capital insulation of wooden windows

Temporary insulation methods are budgetary, easy to install, and allow you to quickly eliminate heat leakage through cracks. But for a more effective result, in which it is not necessary to painstakingly close the gaps every year, the windows are thoroughly restored.

Here's how the pros recommend doing it:

Such capital insulation will save the room from drafts, noise and dust for a long time.

Having decided how to insulate wooden windows for the winter - temporarily or permanently, you can significantly reduce the cost of heating a house or apartment. There are many ways - from traditional, familiar from childhood, pasting with paper tapes to modern technology using energy-saving films. A major restoration of a block of wood is the most effective tool that allows you to forget about the need to prepare windows for the winter for a long time.