How to glue tiles on the ceiling in different ways. How to properly glue foam ceiling tiles Do-it-yourself ceiling tile gluing

Styrofoam ceiling tiles are a quick and inexpensive way to finish. It is not required to attract specialists, have special skills or tools. The work can be done by almost anyone, including alone. And the service life of such a coating is more than 15 years. In this article we will tell you step by step how to stick tiles on the ceiling with your own hands. Also consider what to do if the surface is uneven.

Types of ceiling tiles

Ceiling tiles come with edging or with smooth edges. The latter is called seamless, since the joints are invisible when properly installed. The ceiling appears to be painted or chalk whitewashed.

Three types of seamless ceiling tiles are produced, in which the effect is obtained in different ways:

1. With curly edges (zigzag or wavy). The tiles are firmly attached to each other. In addition, jagged lines are less visible to the human eye than straight lines.
2. With a calibrated edge, that is, with minimal dimensional errors and identical angles. The seams are extremely thin.
3. With decorative fill. On the surface there is a relief ornament (vegetative, geometric or abstract), which distracts attention from the joints and makes them invisible.

Panels with a seam have an uneven edge (with a chamfer of various shapes and sizes). Therefore, after gluing, visible joints remain that have to be sealed.

Most often, foam ceiling tiles are produced in the form of a square with a side of 50 cm. But there are other formats, including rectangular ones:

• 30x60;
• 30x70;
• 40x40;
• 40x70;
• 60x60.

Ceiling panels also differ in material, production technology and surface type. Each has its pros and cons, but this does not affect the installation process.

Layout options

Gluing ceiling tiles is done in several ways. The choice depends on personal preferences, the size of the room and the desired effect.

in rows

Classic layout, in which the edges are parallel to the walls. It is better that the surface is even, otherwise the curvature of the partitions is easily noticeable.

The following options are possible:

• glue a seamless tile, resulting in a complete surface;
• take elements of two colors and arrange them in a checkerboard pattern (this will hide the irregularities of the ceiling);
• lay out other patterns or geometric shapes.

Offset

This option is similar to the previous one. White or colored tiles are glued with an offset of half the element. The room looks airier and lighter. But more accurate markup is needed.

Diagonally

With this layout, the seams are less visible. But sticking becomes more difficult, as more calculations and fitting are required. The number of cuts is increasing. Mostly used products of the same color.

Methods for gluing ceiling tiles

The installation of elements occurs in a certain order. In this article, we will consider laying options in rows, while diagonal and rhombus are described in another. The edges are parallel to the walls. Previously, the ceiling is marked under the ceiling tiles.

snake

The first square is pasted at the center point, the second - to the right of it. Then lay two panels below. Installation continues in a spiral, from the already attached elements to the edges of the ceiling.

Often an even number of slabs does not fit in size. Then you need to cut those of them that are adjacent to the walls. To do this, use a construction knife. First, the distance is measured with a ruler.

criss-cross

The first four tiles are laid so that one of the corners falls into the center of the room. It turns out a square. The following are glued in parallel rows from the middle towards opposite walls. Then across the previous ones. Lastly, fill in the remaining sections.

Rows from the corner

This option is more often used in small rooms to get less scraps. The first tile is placed in the corner, the next ones are laid along the walls from it. And then - in parallel already glued.

How to glue ceiling tiles

The following requirements are imposed on the composition of the adhesive:

• high adhesion;
• white or transparent color (otherwise it will shine through, especially through thin tiles);
• no solvents in the composition;
• versatility (must glue different materials);
• high drying rate;
• viscosity.

Adhesive selection

These criteria fit:

• universal polymer types;
• polyvinyl acetate;
• liquid Nails;
• special mastics for ceiling tiles.

What exactly is better to glue depends on the characteristics of the overlap. Consider the properties of the compositions in more detail.

Universal adhesives include such adhesives as "Titan", "Master", "Elitans", "Dragon", etc. Unfortunately, you have to hold on to the decor until the composition "grabs" (up to several tens of seconds, depending on the brand ). When decorating the ceiling, this is inconvenient, as you have to stand with your hands up. Of these tools, Moment is faster, but it must be kept in the air after application, and not pressed immediately.

Polyvinyl acetate options ("PVA", "Bustilat") are used only on well-leveled surfaces. The consumption is greater than that of other means, since the glue is applied not only to the tiles, but also to the ceiling. But there is no strong unpleasant odor.

Liquid nails are applied with a construction gun. The composition is distributed dosed. To stick tiles on even surfaces, a small amount is enough: in the corners and in the center. If necessary, glue is applied to the entire area and in a thicker layer. This way you can hide small flaws in the ceiling. Any brand that does not contain solvents is suitable, for example, Moment of Installation or Titanium.

Mastics are sold in the form of a paste in small buckets. These tools are specially designed to set quickly, and therefore the panels do not need to be held.

Is it possible to glue the ceiling tiles with putty

With large differences, the surface has to be leveled. In this case, two stages are combined into one:

1. Apply the putty to a small area in a thin layer.
2. Smooth out.
3. Press down on the foam board.

Most often used finishing composition. But if the overlap is very uneven, they take the starting one.

Calculation of the required amount of tiles and glue

To determine how much material is needed, you first need to know the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling. If the room is of a simple shape, this is not difficult: the length is multiplied by the width. With a more complex one, with protrusions, niches, and the like, use this method:

1. Draw a diagram with dimensions.
2. Divided into rectangles and squares.
3. Calculate the areas of the parts.
4. Add up all the square meters.

The approximate consumption of glue and putty is indicated on the packaging. But when leveling, when a thicker layer is used, it increases.

The approximate amount per square meter will be as follows:

• "Titan" - 50 g;
• "Moment" - 200-400 g;
• "PVA" - 200-300 g;
• "Bustilat" - 100-200 g.

1. Calculate the area of ​​one tile. To do this, multiply its length by its width.
2. Divide the total area of ​​the ceiling by the resulting number.
3. Add about 10-20% (depending on the material and shape of the room). This will provide a margin in case any parts break or are cut unevenly.
4. Round the result to an integer.

As an example, let's calculate how many panels with a side of 50 cm are required for a room of 20 m²:

1. The area of ​​one tile is 250 cm², or 0.25 m².
2. We divide the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling by it: 20 / 0.25 \u003d 80. This is the number of elements without margin.
3. We add 10%. 80+8=88. How many panels need to be purchased for repair.

List of tools and materials

In addition to tiles and glue, you will need:

• ladder;
• construction knife (cut panels);
• roulette;
• laser level;
• pencil;
• a bucket for diluting solutions;
• putty;
• primer;
• brush for application;
• putty knife;
• soft cloth to remove dirt from the front side;
• painting (chopping) cord;
• glue gun (if liquid nails are selected);
• spatula (for mastic or putty);
• brush (for other types);
• sealant for sealing seams;
• ceiling plinth made of polystyrene.

Preparing the ceiling for gluing

Before starting work, it is necessary to remove everything that does not hold well. Whitewash, paint or crumbling plaster must be scraped off with a spatula or washed off with water. Otherwise, in the future, the coating will fall off along with the tile.

Cracks and noticeable depressions must be puttied. But perfect alignment is not required.

Attention! It is advisable to wait some time before continuing the repair, so that the layer is completely dry (from 12 hours to several days). The manufacturer's recommendations are indicated on the packaging.

Do I need to prime the ceiling before gluing

This is necessary, especially if the base is rather loose. The tool strengthens the surface and reduces the consumption of glue. It is better to choose a primer:

• deep penetration;
• with an antiseptic effect (so that the fungus does not develop).

You must wait until the composition is completely dry.

Where to start tiling

In this matter, they focus on both convenience and visual effect. Consider the possible ways in detail. In all cases, before starting work, the ceiling must be marked under the ceiling tiles.

From the center of the room

The first panel is placed so that the corner is located at the midpoint. Add three more. The result is a square, from which further installation takes place (with a snake or crosswise).

From the central tile

The first element is glued exactly in the middle of the room. The center of the tile and the center of the room are the same. To do this, when marking, lay off half the length of the element in the direction of the walls.

From the chandelier

The main lighting is not always located in the middle of the ceiling, especially in rooms with complex geometry. Laying can be started from the chandelier. Then the initial plates are oriented to the attachment point. The corners around it are cut off. In the future, this place will be covered with a chandelier plate.

From the corner

The previous methods are more often used in large rooms - halls, living rooms. And in small rooms or corridors, it is not necessary to start from the center. The first tile can also be placed in the corner.

For this method, smooth walls are required. It is advisable to start the sticker from the window, and not from the door. Then, when entering the room, the cut-off slabs will not be visible.

Ceiling markings

Before gluing, do this:

1. Fasten the chopping cord in one of the corners.
2. Pull obliquely to the opposite and release.
3. The second diagonal is marked in the same way.
4. The point of their intersection is the center of the room. If necessary, shift to the place of attachment of the chandelier.
5. From this point, using a paint cord, draw perpendiculars to the walls.
6. Focusing on them, draw squares with a side equal to the length of the panels.

How to glue ceiling tiles

First you need to prepare the material. Open the packages and inspect each item. All must be the same size and color, without burrs and sagging along the edges. If necessary, defects are corrected by cutting with a knife.

To stick a tile, do the following:

1. The square is smeared with glue.
2. Apply in place, lightly smooth with your hand and hold until it seizes.
3. Closely dock the next part, align the edges and also press.
4. Excess glue is immediately removed from the polystyrene foam with a damp sponge or soft cloth.
5. Repeat with the rest of the slabs until the entire ceiling is pasted over. At the same time, they are compared with the lines that were marked out at the previous stage.
6. If required, the fragments adjacent to the walls are cut with a knife.
7. The gaps along the edges are closed with a plinth.

It is necessary to firmly press one square to another. If there is a large gap left, a wooden plank or beam is attached to the free edge and moved. It is easy to break the material with hands.

How to apply adhesive to ceiling tiles

If the surface of the overlap is even, the composition is smeared as follows:

1. Distribute around the perimeter at a distance of about a centimeter from the edge (so that the excess does not crawl out into the seams and does not stain the visible surface).
2. Make several strokes in the center or diagonally (for reliability).
3. Wait 1-2 minutes until the product thickens, then apply the tile.

For a porous material (concrete) ceiling, a thicker layer will be required, as some will be absorbed.

How to glue tiles near a chandelier

It is necessary to leave a place to hang the lamp, for this:

1. The first four tiles have one corner cut out. In this case, the total area of ​​the site should be sufficient for fastening, but smaller than the size of the plate.
2. Fragments are laid according to the markup with a central point in the place where the chandelier will hang.
3. Then continue sticking, as usual.

If the installation is carried out from the central fragment, a hole of the desired size is cut out in it.

How to close the seams and gaps between the ceiling tiles

Even after the most accurate gluing, gaps remain, since the edges of the tile are not perfectly even and may have defects. To cover them up, use a sealant, which is sold in cans with an elongated nozzle. The tip is easy to get into the tile seams.

The composition should be white so as not to contrast with the finish. It is best to choose silicone - waterproof.

You can use the remnants of putty or mastic, but only white.

The nuances of gluing tiles on an uneven ceiling

In such cases, gypsum putty is used. Stacking goes like this:

1. Dilute the mixture according to the instructions on the package.
2. Approximately enough to put four tiles on the ceiling. The solution should be laid in a layer no thicker than 3-5 mm. Such an amount is easy to equalize, and the composition will not have time to grab.
3. Carry out with a notched trowel, forming grooves.
4. Attach trim pieces. Match the edges.
5. By pressing with a building level (preferably half a meter) or a rule, they level the surface.
6. Repeat previous steps. As a result, all fragments should be in the same plane (or without differences noticeable to the eye).

Features of gluing seamless tiles

With this finish, the ceiling looks like it has been whitewashed or painted. To avoid noticeable transitions, choose panels without sides or chamfers with straight or curved edges. Tiles are chosen in the same thickness or with a pattern in the center.

If a seamless coating is desired, the general installation method is the same. But there are some nuances:

1. The surface must be carefully leveled, otherwise transitions will be noticeable.
2. Tiles are glued with a minimum distance from each other.
3. When laying, they are guided by the arrows on the back. They must go in the same direction.
4. If you paint the ceiling, the seams will become even more invisible.

Is it possible to glue ceiling tiles in the bathroom

The room is characterized by high humidity, so not any finish is suitable. Of the panels, only extruded or injection are suitable. This coverage:

• resistant to moisture;
• has heat and sound insulation qualities;
• easy to clean;
• not susceptible to fungus.

For additional protection, the coating is painted with compositions intended for use in bathrooms (for example, a water-based emulsion).

Ceiling tile care

Over time, dust accumulates on the tile, especially in the recesses of the pattern. In order for the ceiling to retain its appearance, regular cleaning is required. Dry is needed once a month. A vacuum cleaner or a fluffy brush will come in handy. Wet is done every two months, but only for laminated or painted coatings. The ceiling is looked after using a sponge or cloth.

Water accumulates in the recesses. It must be carefully removed, for example, with paper napkins or other easily absorbent material. If this is not done, the stains will spoil the appearance of the ceiling.

Do not use products with abrasives or chemically aggressive substances. Soap solution or dishwashing liquid is suitable.

If the neighbors staged a flood, you must immediately clean the ceiling. Otherwise, rust spots cannot be removed.

Repair and restoration of ceiling tiles

Over time, the coating turns yellow (especially in the kitchen) and the surface has to be painted. It's easy to do it yourself by preparing:

• paint that can withstand wet cleaning and does not have a strong odor (water-based, latex, acrylic);
• foam roller;
• a brush for corners and other hard-to-reach places.

It is not necessary to choose white. But light colors are preferable - a dark ceiling will appear lower. Cold shades make the room more spacious, while warm ones make it cozier. It is important to consider the overall design of the room.

Thus, with the help of foam tiles, you can quickly and inexpensively finish the ceiling. The work is easy to do alone, and a variety of products will allow you to choose the right option for any room.

Styrofoam tiles are inexpensive, fast, easy to install and are one of the most affordable materials for finishing the ceiling. Before starting work, you need to understand what ceiling tiles are, the adhesive mixture for them and the layout options. The composition for gluing is not suitable for everyone, it is important that it does not contain components that destroy the finish. Consider the types of mixtures, methods of preparing the surface and laying out the decor in more detail.

Types of Styrofoam Ceiling Tile Adhesive

When choosing how to glue foam ceiling tiles, you need to pay attention to the following characteristics of the composition:

• strength and reliability of adhesion of the decor to the base;
• fast setting;
• increased adhesion - this is the property of adhesion of the mixture to the base;
• viscosity;
• safety for decor and people;
• application layer thickness;
• installation features - there are adhesive mixtures that require application not only on the tile, but also on the surface, this increases consumption.

Advice! In the presence of small irregularities in the plane, defects, glue is selected with the possibility of applying a thick and thin layer, it is easier to hide bumps and cavities, scratches.

The type of base is also taken into account - there are mixtures for wooden, concrete, plastered ceilings. But what should not be in the composition is solvents such as acetone, toluene, white spirit - they melt the foam.

Advice! If the glue will dry longer than 25-30 seconds, it is better not to take it, since it is difficult to stand with your hands up for a long time. But drying faster than 5 seconds is also not suitable - it will not be possible to correct the tile to eliminate uneven layouts.

The easiest way is to choose glue and primer from the same manufacturer or based on the same basic components, the compositions adhere better. Compositions are well suited for gluing: PVA, universal adhesives without caustic solvents, liquid nails, melt. You can attach the decor to acrylic putty, then you do not have to seal the seams.

Advice! Home craftsmen often get by with Moment-type compositions. You need to know that after drying, yellow spots of glue are visible through thin plates, so it is better to choose a white mixture without pigments.

Preparatory work before gluing

The plane of the ceiling must be properly prepared so that the tile lies without air bubbles. The decor is mounted on a flat base base, cleaned of the old finish. If the ceilings are sewn up with drywall or plywood before finishing, such a base is also being prepared.

What should be done:

1. Wash off whitewash from the ceiling, remove wallpaper, paint or old decor. If there are areas with loose plaster, remove everything and clean it to a concrete base. Whitewash is washed off with water, like water-based paint, the wallpaper is soaked, then peeled off, and a spatula or special washes can be used for paint.
2. Assess the flatness of the surface. If necessary, seal cracks, chips with putty, remove tubercles with emery or a grinder. Now you need to prime the surface and treat it with an antiseptic - this will help protect the plane from mold. The primer should be deep penetration, you can immediately take it with antiseptic additives. Treat 2-3 times, allowing the previous coat to dry before applying the next.
3. After priming, a flat surface can be prepared for cladding, and an uneven surface can be puttied. Useful starting and finishing putty. The starting one is applied to especially deep defects up to 0.4 cm, and if the chips and scratches are less than 0.2 cm, the finishing one is enough.

Advice! The finishing putty is applied with a layer of no more than 0.2 cm. When using the starting compound, the finishing compound is always applied and applied after the base base has completely dried with a layer of starting putty.

1. Prime the ceilings 2 times, allowing the first layer to dry well, and only then apply the second, and you can tile the ceilings.

Advice! If there is mold on the base surface, the zones are cleaned to a concrete base and treated with a special antiseptic or a solution of copper sulphate with lime.

Materials and tools

When figuring out how to glue ceiling tiles, you need to not only buy the necessary materials in advance, but also take care of the tools.

The master will need the following set:

• tape measure and pencil;
• primer;
• antiseptic mixture;
• putty knife;
• putty (if you have to level the ceilings);
• primer roller;
• tile adhesive;
• the tile itself is foam;
• knife for cutting elements;
• adhesive composition;
• sealant for sealing seams and joints.

Work will be carried out on the ceiling, so a solid table will not hurt. Taking a stepladder is not the best option, you can’t lay out tiles, glue and other improvised materials, tools on it. Also, the master will need protective equipment, a wash or water for the old decor and a ruler - it is more convenient to measure the pieces of tiles that need to be cut with it.

Decor styling options and schemes

How to glue the tiles on the ceiling, the owner himself chooses, there are several layout schemes:

1. Along the long walls. This is the simplest option that does not require special miscalculations. The layout is carried out in even rows, but the ideal geometry of the room is required - if there are irregularities, the finish will only emphasize the defects. You need to start work from the central point of the ceiling, and tiles cut to the desired size are laid along the edges.
2. Rhombus. This laying well levels the wrong geometry of the room, but requires preliminary calculations and markings.
3. Diagonal. The technique will require a lot of expense, but it will help to make the room unusual and hide the difference in the length of the walls. The way to properly glue a ceiling tile with a diagonal is simple - find the center of the room by drawing diagonal lines from the corners, from the center point and start gluing.

Advice! Sometimes the walls vary greatly in length, so it is better to find the center of the wall, and lay out the first elements at the intersection of the lines.

1. With offset seams. This is how ceilings are pasted over only with decor without a pattern, and each next element is shifted by half the width of the previous one - laying out in rows with precise control of the offset width.

How to glue ceiling tiles in different ways, figured out. Consider the features of the markup and other nuances.

Base ceiling layout

Before gluing the tiles to the ceiling, the base surface must be marked. Be sure to pay attention to the size of the decor, for example, consider how to stick tiles on the ceiling and make markings for elements with a side of 500 mm. You need to start marking from the center of the ceiling, if the layout is diagonal or rhombus from the wall - provided that the laying will be done in even rows or with a seam offset.

Advice! When marking from the wall, the masters are advised to choose the wall opposite from the window.

If there is a chandelier in the room, then the hook on the ceiling exactly points to the center of the plane, no - pull the fishing line along the diagonal corners, at the intersection point there will be a center. It is necessary to find the center of the wall, each wall is measured, the center is marked, a fishing line or paint cord is pulled - at the intersection there will be the desired point. The option to search for the center of the wall is suitable for rooms with broken geometry, and the diagonal tension of the cords is carried out in rooms with even walls.

Advice! If a solid element is laid out in the center of the ceiling, and not the corners of the tile, half the size of the tile is deposited from the center point on both sides, mark the zones. Within the measurement and glue the first element of the decor.

Pasting technique

Consider how to glue foam ceiling tiles. Professional tips to help you get the job done:

• The option of applying the adhesive composition depends on the type of mixture. If it is acrylic putty or cement mortar, it is better to use spot application so as not to create weight on the base base. Using liquid nails, non-aggressive adhesive compositions, you can apply a track around the entire perimeter, to a central point, and then level the mixture over the entire surface of the decorative part with a spatula.
• Pasting is carried out with closed doors and windows. There should be no drafts so as not to disturb the drying process of the mixture - this can affect the bonding strength.
• Read on the composition how to apply it. There are adhesives that need to be smeared, then attach the tile to the ceiling, peel it off and let the composition dry a little. Manufacturers also produce glue with a mandatory application on the reverse side of the decor and the base surface.
• Apply glue to the tile, wait 1-2 minutes for setting and glue the element to the ceiling at a pre-marked point.
• Take the next part, attach it to the previous one without glue, visually assess the evenness and you can apply glue. Evenness must be checked in the first row for each element, selectively in subsequent rows. Thus, the owner gets the opportunity to quickly correct the layout if a small shift has occurred somewhere.

After the entire plane is decorated, trimmed elements are laid along the edges, you can seal the seams with sealant, applying the composition in a thin layer to prevent thickening. The final touch is the decor of the joint between the ceiling and the wall with skirting boards, baguettes or decorative slats.

Advice! If the decor is laid out correctly, then laying the plinth will not cause problems. For ceilings wired with gypsum boards, baguettes of any type are selected, and for surfaces pasted over with tiles, it is better to select lightweight foam parts so as not to weigh down the decorative coating.

Tiles can be painted, painted or varnished, the main thing is that the parts are firmly and securely fastened, the finishing technology is selected according to the requirements and taste of the owner. For example, in rooms with a high level of humidity, the decor is painted to protect it from water, and in open areas with the aggressive effects of wind and sun, the finish can be varnished with a waterproof varnish without aggressive components and solvents in the composition.

If it is necessary to finish the ceiling, but there is not enough time or finances, the desire is not enough, then the best solution is to use foam (polystyrene foam) plates. The plates are glued to any work surface and such a ceiling will look pretty neat. Ceiling tiles are usually produced in a square shape with dimensions of 0.5 x 0.5 m (1 sq.m. = 4 tiles). The market offers a wide variety of colors, patterns and relief.

Calculation of the number of tiles:

After you have decided on the choice of tiles, you need to calculate how many tiles and glue will be needed to finish the ceiling. There are two ways to glue ceiling tiles:

• edge parallel to the wall

The diamond-shaped finish looks better, but at the same time the consumption of tiles increases (considering the low price, this can be ignored). For 10 sq.m. the ceiling will take approximately 12 sq.m. tiles and 1.5 liters of glue. If you choose the method of finishing with a rib along the wall, then the consumption per tile is about 1 to 1. However, you need to take into account cases of culling (they broke the corner or cut it incorrectly), so it’s better to immediately buy 10-15% more than the required amount. You can cut the tiles with a clerical knife, using a spatula 30-40 cm wide or a metal ruler.

How to glue ceiling tiles:

Finishing the ceiling with foam boards is one of the few finishing methods that you can do yourself, without involving a specialist. The whole process begins with the preparation of the work surface. It is necessary to remove crumbling whitewash or peeling paint, cracks are sealed with putty. We do not need a perfectly flat ceiling, but it is desirable to strengthen it. If the work surface is made of a material that absorbs moisture (plywood, chipboard, etc.), we recommend that they be primed.

If there is a chandelier on the ceiling, we start gluing the tiles from it (easier, but not obligatory), and if there is no chandelier, we find the geometric center of the room. Why we pull diagonally - from corner to corner two ropes, the intersection of which will be the center, from which the finishing should begin.

In order to glue the tiles along the walls, we draw guide lines through the center (parallel and perpendicular to the long walls of the room), along which we begin installation. When choosing the “rhombus” finishing method, the first tile is glued to the marked center so that its corners lie on the guides drawn - a rhombus is obtained in the center of the ceiling.

If we start from the chandelier, then the wire outlet will serve as the joining point of the four tiles (the tile is glued around the starting point). At the same time, the corners that join the wire of the chandelier are slightly cut off. Later, this cut will be closed with a lamp glass. Along the perimeter of the ceiling, where it is not possible to put a whole tile, carefully adjust it to fit. We do this with a regular office knife - the tile is easily cut. And the final stage of finishing the ceiling will be the installation of the ceiling cornice. The cornice not only gives the appearance of the ceiling aesthetics, but also hides minor defects at the joints. It is not necessary to use foam cornices; wooden slats and shaped profiles are also suitable. They are glued with the same glue as the tiles.

Sometimes tiles begin to be laid row by row, starting from one of the walls. This option is the fastest and easiest. But at the same time, one nuance should be taken into account - you need to start from the wall opposite the front door. Then, at the entrance to the room, a section of the wall with solid tiles will be visible, and the section pasted over with cut tiles will be located above the head and not so noticeable.

The remains of the glue are removed before hardening with special napkins or a sponge, trying not to smear it so that there are no dark spots on the tile.

How to glue ceiling tiles on whitewash:

We apply a primer to the old whitewash - it impregnates the old coating and seizes with the main ceiling. It remains to wait until the primer is completely dry and you can proceed with the installation.

Partially scrape off a layer of whitewash with a spatula, which begins to fall off. And when installing the tile, apply a thicker layer of glue to its wrong side and press the tile to the ceiling for several minutes. The glue itself impregnates the layer of whitewash remaining on the ceiling and sticks together with the ceiling.

What glue to glue the ceiling tiles:

To choose the right adhesive, it is necessary to clearly articulate the conditions for its use. Since the mass of the tile is small, the load on the adhesive joint will be minimal. A small area of ​​the glue joint - to save glue and because of the unevenness of the ceiling. Also, the adhesive must hold the ceiling tiles with a minimum hold time. And lastly, it is necessary to glue surfaces from various materials (polystyrene foam with concrete, wood, plaster, etc.). There are many types of glue that meet the requirements.

Universal polymer adhesive. Of this group, the most common is "TITAN" - quite viscous (holds tiles on the ceiling without additional fixation) and versatile (glues plastic, metal, glass, etc.). "Master" - glue, similar in composition to "TITAN", but has a sharp, stable odor and takes longer to dry. There are several brands of glue made in China, similar in composition: "Power", "Dragon", "ELTITANS".

Attention: when airing the room, avoid drafts and sudden temperature changes (especially in winter)!

Liquid Nails. Abbreviated "LN" (liquid nails) - glue, has a very thick consistency. The tiles can be glued to the ceiling, which has significant irregularities (the consistency allows you to apply glue to the tiles in a fairly thick layer). Has very high bonding strength. But there are several restrictions on its use:

Incompatibility with some materials (compatibility list should include polystyrene foam and polystyrene, as the adhesive may contain solvents that react with plastic. This will lead to deformation or destruction of the tile).

There are temperature limits. All information is indicated by the manufacturer on the tube.

Glue polyvinyl acetate (PVA). PVA, Bustilat (and similar ones) - have an ambiguous assessment. The advantage is that they are devoid of unpleasant odors and are easier to remove. But on the other hand, it takes a long time to dry and a large consumption of glue (because such glue has a lower viscosity than polymeric ones).

Finishing acrylic putty. It can also be used for gluing ceiling tiles. Putty adheres very well to any work surface and has a couple more advantages:

when used on thin tiles, the putty is not visible in any light;

can be used for grouting joints between tiles and a wall (or baseboard).

The process of gluing tiles is simple. If we use "TITAN" or similar, then apply the glue in a strip along the entire perimeter and in increments of 3-5 cm over the entire area (it is allowed to apply glue in dots in increments of 1 cm). Then we apply the tile to the ceiling and immediately remove it. We wait 30-40 seconds and apply it completely. This operation will allow the glue to thicken a little and provide a more reliable grip.

When using Bustilat, PVA and the like, it is advisable to apply glue to the ceiling too. Let it thicken for 5-10 minutes, and then finally press the tile to the ceiling. In exactly the same way, we glue the ceiling plinth at the end of the work. It will take 1-2 days for the final drying of the ceiling. At this time, the formation of drafts and sudden changes in temperature should not be allowed.

If any “ugly” gap is later found, seal it with either putty or white silicone sealant.

Which glue to choose to glue the ceiling tiles is not so important. The result will depend on how you do it.

Video instruction on how to glue ceiling tiles with your own hands:

Repair in the house is what the owners prepare for in advance, choosing the design, materials that will be used in the process, and allocating funds from the budget for their purchase, often very considerable. It is advisable to update the situation at least once every few years, since both wall and ceiling coverings lose their appearance over time. If earlier both walls and ceilings were whitewashed, now whitewashing has been replaced by wall paint and wallpaper. It is customary to stick tiles on the ceiling, or to make stretch ceilings, which is not always convenient and less economical than tiles. Moreover, if stretch ceilings are more laborious to install and require the hands of a specialist, then in the case of tiles, it is quite possible to cope on your own - of course, if you do everything according to the recommendations.

And so, it was decided to do an inexpensive redecoration with vinyl wallpaper and ceiling tiles. The wallpaper is selected, now it is worth paying attention to the choice of ceiling covering. It is important to approach this moment with all possible attention, because the tile must meet the requirements of the owner both in terms of external qualities and material characteristics to make the house more comfortable, because often, when entering a room, guests first of all pay attention to the ceiling.

The advantages of ceiling tiles as a finishing material include:

• profitability, despite the quite presentable appearance;
• possibility of gluing on any surface;
• a large selection of colors and patterns - you can choose the perfect tile suitable for any room;
• the possibility of laying on their own without the involvement of specialists.

Types of ceiling tiles. Which is better to choose?

Despite the fact that the materials used for manufacturing are quite different - for example, metal, wood - most of them are expensive or not suitable for a standard living space. There aren't many really good options. If the apartment is located in an extremely busy place and you want to get rid of unnecessary noise, use soundproofing fiberglass and starch tiles but most of the time this is not necessary. Therefore, in the first place is a tile made of expanded polystyrene. It is not only well suited to any interior due to the huge variety of imitations of other materials and a variety of colors, but also the cheapest. Someone might think that it is harmful, but it is not. If it does not contain any unnecessary impurities, it is absolutely harmless to living organisms.

Expanded polystyrene tiles can also be divided into several types. The main differences between them are the method of manufacture and the type of coating surface.

Types of tiles according to the manufacturing method

1. stamped. Another name is pressed. The cheapest and most common type. Although such products are inferior in quality to their counterparts, they are still willingly bought. They are obtained by pressing and stamping, and blocks of expanded polystyrene are taken as the basis. The thickness of such products is small, up to 8 millimeters. Use these tiles with caution, they are fragile and can easily break. It is worth cutting only with sharp objects, otherwise crumbling cannot be avoided. When gluing, it is important to avoid high humidity, this type of coating may shrink and gaps will appear.. It should be noted that shrinkage is typical only for stamped tiles.
2. injection. This tile is white in color and can be dyed as desired. It is the thickest of the three types, its thickness is from 9 to 14 millimeters. The drawing on it has the correct geometric shape and is quite deep. It also serves for sound insulation, and when compared, for example, with stamped, it is more durable. Also, this type is environmentally friendly and harmless, it does not burn well. The difference is that after gluing there are no seams that need to be sealed, which means it is more convenient, but due to all this it is more expensive and therefore less common.
3. extruded. This is the highest quality and most expensive ceiling tiles. It is obtained by pressing, the result of which is a polystyrene foam strip. Such tiles are completely smooth, without graininess, much stronger than stamped and injection tiles. It has different sizes, but most often found in the form of standard square products 50x50 cm. It can be either white or painted in a different color. Do not paint it yourself. Its coating repels water, due to which it can be washed if necessary, which cannot be done with other types of material. The disadvantage is that in sunlight it may turn yellow. For this reason, you should not choose a pure white finish in a room where there is a lot of sunlight.

Ceiling tile prices

ceiling tiles

Separation by type of tile surface

According to this criterion, the tile is divided into 3 more groups, consider them.

Table. Classification of finishing tiles according to the type of surface coating.

After the tile is selected, you can start gluing.

What is required for work?

In order for the work to be done with high quality, it is not enough to choose a beautiful and suitable tile, you also need a number of tools and materials for laying, the choice of which should also be taken seriously so that you do not have to redo or glue everything again. The adhesive must be suitable for any type of tile and the surface of the material to which it will be attached. Brand, price and country of origin do not always matter, please consult the seller well.

Important! Recently, the following technique has been common: stick tiles on liquid nails. In this case, it keeps better and pleases the owner longer. You do not have to wait for drying, as is the case if you use ordinary tile adhesive.

As for specific tools, you should purchase:

• knife or scissors;
• roulette;
• mounting adhesive;
• simple pencil;
• stepladder or a regular table.

Step by step instructions for gluing tiles

The procedure consists of several stages, we will get acquainted with the features of each of them.

Ceiling and tile surface preparation

If the temperature difference between the room and the street is very large, then the tile must lie down in the room for some time, because it reacts strongly to cold and heat. It is advisable to unpack it in advance, and not right before laying.

Mounting adhesive prices

mounting adhesive

Pasting the ceiling with tiles directly on top of the old coating or on freshly peeled wallpaper, of course, should not be, so the most important step will be its preliminary preparation. We carefully remove the old tile, if wallpaper was pasted instead of it, we peel them off, after which we apply a primer to the surface. A good primer will ensure that the adhesive adheres, and the tile will not lag behind. If there are any irregularities, you can putty them, but full putty is not required, because if the ceiling is even, then you can do without it.

On a concrete or water-based paint surface, the tile lays down very well without any preliminary preparation. But it will lag behind the whitewash, not having time to stick properly, so the lime whitewash will have to be completely primed or even cleaned off. After the primer and putty are completely dry, you can proceed to the next step - marking the ceiling.

primer prices

primer

Ceiling measurements and markings

Without guides, it is not easy to glue the ceiling covering perfectly even, so you do not have to rely only on your eye. Be sure to select guidelines so that the coating lies without distortions. This can be done in several ways.

1. From the center- the first tile is glued exactly in the middle of the ceiling, all the rest are placed on its sides. This option gives the best results: it is simply impossible to lay the tiles unevenly when they lay down from a properly glued center slab. How to paste it correctly? To do this, we stretch two threads from the corners along the diagonal of the room, and mark the place of their intersection, which will be the center. From this point on four sides we measure a distance equal to half the tile, and according to these marks we glue the slab. Everything, now you can start pasting.
2. From the chandelier- the most convenient way if a chandelier is already hanging. We dock four tiles to the place where the wire exits, carefully cut the corners to them and glue them. The rest are stacked on their sides.
3. From the wall opposite the entrance- the easiest way for a beginner, in which, however, it is often necessary to cut the last row of plates.

In any case, gluing the first plates is the most important stage on which the success of further work depends.

Sticking tiles from a chandelier

We take four tiles and apply them to each other so that everything is exactly at the joints. The corners connected to the chandelier are cut to fit the cap connector. Next, apply glue. It is applied to the corners and in the center more, and along the edges - in small droplets. Some tiles already have special recesses into which glue is poured. It is also recommended to apply some glue to the ceiling. If this is an instant glue, then you can not wait for it to dry, but stick it right away.

Chandelier prices

When applying tiles to the ceiling, it is worth making sure that it lies absolutely evenly, otherwise gaps cannot be avoided in the future. There is no need to press hard on the gluing points; moreover, even minor dents or cracks may remain.

After the first square is glued, the remaining 3 must be placed around the chandelier in the same way. Next, glue the rest of the tiles. It should fit snugly against each other without the formation of cracks, it is better to peel it off and stick it again than to cover up ugly seams later. Usually if the corners converge, then the tiles should fit snugly along the edges to each other. If there is a pattern on it, then you should make sure that it matches.

Often it turns out that the tile has to be cut. In this case the cutting line should be adjacent to the wall, and solid edges should be joined to other tiles, then even if an unevenness was allowed in the cut, this will cover the plinth, which will be glued after the tile at the junction of the wall and ceiling.

Covering cracks

It is not always possible to glue ceilings perfectly, especially for beginners. However, when you see small gaps between the plates, you should not be upset, you can simply cover them up. To do this, we take a sealant or Moment-installation, if the tile is white, apply it and gently rub it with your finger over the entire gap. It is almost impossible to see the latter after this, the main thing is not to stain the tile itself. For this reason, we perform this operation as carefully as possible.

Cracks between foam tiles on the ceiling

Final stage

At this stage, all the shortcomings, if any, are viewed and removed, and a circle is glued around the chandelier. It serves as a good addition and decoration. Carefully cut out a hole, make a side cut in order to put it on, and glue it over the tile. It is worth remembering that the lamp itself must be at a sufficient distance from the tile itself to prevent its melting or even fire.

Video - How to glue tiles on the ceiling correctly

If the color is not entirely satisfactory, and the tile is not water-repellent, it can easily be painted over with water-based paint of any color, it is advisable to paint over the skirting boards together with the ceiling itself. Also, tiles are often betrayed for painting, which have been on the ceiling for more than one year and are dirty, but you can’t wash them. That's it.

In order to make good repairs at home, it is not necessary to be a master, it is enough to have the desire and use the recommendations correctly. As for the ceiling tiles, it is worth paying attention to the fact that each package contains a brochure that indicates exactly how to stick this type of ceiling covering. Follow her and everything will work out.

If you need to quickly and inexpensively tidy up the ceiling, pay attention to the tiles made of foam or polystyrene. If you approach the matter correctly, you can get a very decent result. About how to glue the tiles on the ceiling correctly, what to use for this and we will talk further.

Kinds

If you look closely, for all its similarity, the tiles on the ceiling have significant differences. It's not about the pattern and shape, but about the appearance - density, surface smoothness and other "little things" on which the appearance and service lines of this type of finish depend. This is explained by the use of different materials and technologies:

The easiest way to glue and care for extruded polystyrene tiles. The second in quality is injection, and the most “capricious” in maintenance and installation is stamped. Now you can choose the type of tile yourself, but there is still an appearance.

Ceiling tiles are most often produced in the form of squares with a side of 5o cm. There are non-standard options - rectangular. According to the type of surface, there are tiles with a piping that forms a clear seam at the junction, there are seamless options. The edges of seamless slabs can be straight or curved.

Design types - with piping, seamless

The principle of gluing does not change depending on the type of edge, only the appearance of the product changes. There are a lot of design options for this type of finishing materials. There are geometric, floral, without a pattern, or with a variety of relief. In general, there are a lot of options.

Calculation of quantity and features of choice

Before gluing tiles to the ceiling, you need to calculate its quantity. This is not difficult. Most often, it is produced with a side of 50 cm. This means that there are 4 tiles per 1 square meter. If you know the area of ​​the room, you can easily determine the required number of tiles: multiply the area by 4. For example, the room has dimensions of 3.2 m * 2.8 m. The total area is 8.96 m2. Rounding up, we get 9 m2. To calculate the number of tiles, multiply by 4: 4 pcs * 9 m2 = 36 pcs. It will take some more trimming, part may be broken. Therefore, we increase the total number by several pieces. How much specifically - you need to look at the layout, but usually 10-20% of the stock is enough.

To make foam board ceilings look beautiful, when choosing a material, pay attention not only to the appearance and type. Carefully evaluate the geometry: all tiles should be the same size, the same thickness, the corners should be exactly 90 °. The quality of the drawing should be stable, clear, there should be no sags or inhomogeneities on the side faces. If you choose pressed boards, pay attention to the size of the "grain". The smaller it is, the better.

What to glue

Most often, ceiling tiles are glued to glue such as "Titan", "Naset", "Moment" or liquid nails. All of them are not bad, but with their use it is necessary to hold the tile for a while. You have to hold from 3-5 seconds to several tens, and this is not very convenient. The Moment “grabs” the fastest of all, but it is not ideal either: you have to withstand the applied glue in the air for some time.

In addition to these compositions, there are mastics for ceiling tiles. They are sold in small buckets, they are a paste. It is easier to work with this type of adhesive compositions, as they are more “sticky”. The tile smeared with this composition sticks to the ceiling, it does not need to be kept for as long as it is lubricated with ordinary glue.

All of the above options are for flat or nearly flat ceilings. Where there are differences (joints of plates), this method is not suitable. If the ceiling is uneven, you can glue the tiles on gypsum putty) or Perlfix type glue. Starting or finishing composition - depends on the required layer, the finish is suitable if the height difference is no more than 5 mm, with a larger layer, take the starting one, but it is better to pre-level such a ceiling or use another system (for example, it is also an inexpensive and quick way put in order frankly crooked ceiling).

Both of these materials allow you to simultaneously level the ceiling and glue the ceiling tiles. Only the method of gluing changes, and dramatically (more on this below).

Foundation preparation

Before gluing tiles to the ceiling, the surface must be prepared. To begin with, we remove everything that can fall off. If there is a significant layer of whitewash on the ceiling, it is better to remove it - the ceiling tile, although it weighs little, can eventually fall along with the whitewash. Therefore, we clean it with a spatula in a dry form or wash it off with water. If large “craters” have formed during the stripping process, it is better to repair them. It is easier to use the starting putty or the remains of any plaster composition for this.

If the base is loose, loose, you can not do without a primer. For concrete, it is better to choose "betonokontakt", for a gypsum base - any composition of deep penetration. After drying, you can start gluing polystyrene or foam tiles to the ceiling.

Placement and layout methods

Squares on the ceiling made of foam or polystyrene are placed with edges along the walls or diagonally. When gluing diagonally, the consumption of material is greater - more trimmings and not all of them can be used, but visually it looks better - it is more difficult to notice the seams.

Gluing most often starts from the chandelier. In this case, it is easier to “fit in” it, since the edges of the plates can be cut a little, and the resulting gap will then close the cartridge from the chandelier. But not all rooms have a chandelier - often there are several lamps and they can be located on the walls. Then they start gluing from one of the walls, most often from the opposite entrance. With this approach, most likely the extreme row will be cut off, and near the entrance it will not be so noticeable.

If you need to glue tiles on the ceiling from the chandelier, markup is required. In a square room, everything is simple - we find the center, we start from it. To do this, we take a paint cord, one end to one corner, the other to the opposite, pulling the cord and releasing, we get a line on the ceiling. We repeat the operation with another pair of corners. The center was found, it is easy to glue tiles from it. For diagonal gluing, there are already guides, and for parallel gluing, you will have to make two more strips - through the center to opposite walls (in the figure above).

But this is a very rare case. More often the rooms are rectangular, and the chandelier is not located in the middle of the ceiling. Therefore, more complex markup will have to be done.

To begin with, we also find the center of the room (painting cord diagonally). If it coincides with the place where the chandelier is attached, great, we “dance” from it. If not, we shift the starting point to the chandelier. Further markup is the same. We measure the distance from the starting point of installation to the nearest wall. Using this value, draw the squares as shown in the picture above (use the masking line). After drawing the diagonals, we get guides for laying flow tiles. On them we level the edge of the first row. The more precisely we set this row, the easier it will be to glue the tiles on the ceiling further.

How to glue tiles on the ceiling: two technologies

Styrofoam or polystyrene tiles on the ceiling are attractive because they allow you to quickly and cost-effectively put in order a far from ideal ceiling. If the ceiling is relatively even, the tiles are glued to a special glue. It is applied in a thin layer, but provides a secure fixation.

With uneven ceilings, this method will not work: the tile simply will not stick with large differences or the view will be deplorable. leveling is not always the time, desire or opportunity. Moreover, often this finishing option is considered as temporary, then planning to make or. Therefore, it makes no sense to waste time and money. In this case, another technology is used - on the adhesive composition for drywall or putty. They work no worse than glue, at the same time leveling the base.

Before starting work, unpack all the material, make sure that it is the same color, size. If there are bumps, sagging, they are cut off with a blade or a sharp knife. Now you can proceed to the installation of ceiling tiles on the ceiling.

How to stick on a flat ceiling

If the ceiling is even, ordinary glue for polystyrene or foam tiles is used, the technology is as follows:

As you can see, everything is very simple and these are all the rules for how to glue tiles on the ceiling. Only one caveat: you need to press one square to another tightly. If you have already glued it, but there is a gap, you can move it by pressing a wooden plank to the free edge. When you try to do it with your hands, you can break the foam or polystyrene, and it’s easier to achieve what you want with a flat bar.

If the ceiling is uneven

If the ceiling has significant irregularities, gluing tiles to ordinary glue will not work. To remove significant differences, use drywall glue or putty. The mixture is diluted to a pasty state, applied to the ceiling, grooves are formed using a notched trowel. The amount of glue depends on the overall curvature, but it is advisable to start with a minimum layer. The area on which glue is applied at a time is approximately 4 fragments. During this time, the composition will not have time to grab, and it is not difficult to align such a fragment.

A tile is laid on a layer of glue. It sticks well, moves without problems. Aligning the edges of the stacked fragments, take the rule or the building level (preferably one and a half meters) and set the tiles in the same plane. Just press the fragments harder in the right place.

Then the composition is again applied to the ceiling, and, again, about 4 tiles. All of them are set in the same plane, or at least so that there are no sharp drops. Only in this case it is necessary to ensure that the necessary layer of glue does not grow too quickly - it is better not to apply more than 3-5 mm, otherwise everything will fall.

Cleaning and Sealing

You know how to glue tiles on the ceiling, but there are some nuances left, without knowing which a worthy result is unattainable. When working on the front side of the tile, the adhesive composition often gets. It must be removed immediately and completely. You can use a sponge or a soft non-shedding cloth. Wipe the surface immediately after putting the fragment in place. After a few minutes, this will no longer be possible and traces will remain. Therefore, while working, keep a bucket of water and a sponge / rag at hand.

If there are small voids between the plates, you can fill them with the same mastic or putty (if it is white), just remove the excess immediately. Another option is white acrylic sealant. It perfectly masks all the cracks, adheres well to polystyrene foam and polystyrene. Thin cracks can be filled with a rubber spatula, and the excess can also be wiped immediately with a damp cloth.