How to cover the front door. How to sheathe an iron door. Other types of repair work

The front door is the calling card of our home, and many of us want it to look solid and beautiful. After all, the owner is often judged precisely by her appearance.
It is easier with wooden doors - after installation, it is enough to cover them with varnish or stain. But for more reliable protection of an apartment or house from uninvited guests, most owners prefer to install an iron door.
Finishing metal doors has several options, which we will tell you about. Of course, doors are sold already finished, but it is so monotonous, especially cheap options, that many people want to do everything their own way.
In addition, the decorative layer on the door will serve as an additional soundproofing for it. Perhaps you are quite satisfied with the quality of the old door, and just want to give it a more noble look.

For this work, various materials can be used, which can be marked according to the method of installation and the possibility of application.

MDF

One of the most popular materials that can be used to finish an entrance metal door is MDF. This wood-fiber material is conventionally divided into three types: painted, veneered and laminated.
So:

• As for the painted MDF, it is better not to use this option in this case, because the painted surface does not have much strength. Leave it for interior finishing work.
• Laminated MDF panels are moisture resistant and have sufficient strength. The top layer of PVC has excellent decorative properties: a smooth surface and a texture that imitates natural wood.
  Here they are great for finishing doors.

• The most durable and durable type is veneered MDF. Here, birch or oak veneer is used as a facing material.
  Sometimes they use veneer and more expensive species - ash, beech or mahogany. Naturally, the price of MDF increases at the same time.

With the same success, finishing a metal front door can be done using a laminate that serves as a floor covering.

• It is somewhat different from laminated MDF in its construction, and has a much higher strength.
• The basis of the laminate is also fiberboard, but of a higher density, which is pressed with several layers of paper impregnated with acrylic or melamine resin - a kind of "layer cake".

• With all this, its maximum thickness is only 1.2 cm. Therefore, it is very convenient to use laminate for door finishing.
  Since this material is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, temperature extremes and high humidity, it can sheathe not only the front door of the apartment, but the door of a private house overlooking the street.

powder coating

This type of door decoration is produced only in the factory. This is a very high quality metal powder coating, which is produced by electrostatic spraying and subsequent baking in industrial furnaces.
So:

• Such paint is a fine-crystalline substance containing substances that form a film. It never peels on the surface, therefore it protects the metal from corrosion as much as possible.
• Powder coating is not afraid of mechanical stress, has dielectric and antistatic properties. A huge range of colors allows you to create a coating with any imitation - even leather, even granite, even gold.
• Powder coating is one of the most expensive decorating options.. Especially if these are metal doors with wrought iron trim.
  The cost of such doors may also depend on the complexity of the forged elements.

Cladding from lining

Finishing a metal door with your own hands can be done by lining with a wooden clapboard. This board is produced from different types of wood, so the buyer can always find what he likes and suits the price.

• When finishing the door with clapboard, there is a lot of room for design. Reiki can be placed at different angles, separated by decorative strips, carved, burned, painted.
  The photo below is an excellent example of a door design using a clapboard.

• The question immediately arises: "How to finish a metal door with a tree?". After all, you can’t nail it to metal with a nail.
  The answer is simple: for this you need to make a frame of thin strips.
• They are attached to the door with metal screws, decorative slats are already stuffed into the frame. In order to create a soundproof layer, the internal cavity of the frame can be filled with insulation.

We talked about the most popular types of door finishes. There are other options, for example: vinyl and leather.
In Soviet times, most of the doors of citizens were finished in this way. This is the cheapest option, but it has outlived itself as the most fragile.
The most expensive finish can be considered a door decorated with solid oak. This is an elite product, such decoration is carried out by the manufacturer in the process of making the door - it is very difficult to work with such a durable tree at home.

How to fix the cladding

In this matter, it all depends on the condition of the door itself and the material you choose for finishing.
If it is MDF or laminate, then the panels just need to be glued to the metal surface:

• For better adhesion of materials to each other, the surface of the door must be primed. This is a necessary measure, otherwise the connection may not be strong.
• To fasten the trim elements, you can use the glue "liquid nails". As an additional fixation of the decorative layer, it can be fixed with metal corners.
• In principle, lining can also be fixed in this way. But a natural wood board is much heavier in weight than MDF panels, so nailing will be much more reliable.
  In other cases, gluing is much more preferable - nails will simply ruin the front side of the panels.

slopes

The installation of a new door, or the sheathing of an old one, cannot be considered complete if the slopes are not sealed. A slope is a part of the wall that frames the door around the perimeter.
When dismantling an old door, they can be broken, if not constructively, then cosmetically. The finishing of slopes after the installation of metal doors is carried out in order to strengthen the assembly seam.
There are several possible options, and we will tell you about them:

• The easiest and cheapest way is plastering. This is quite easy to do - all you need is a tool called a template.
  It is needed in order for the slope angle to be perfectly even. For clarity, watch the video.

• The mortar for plaster is mixed from a dry mix on a gypsum or cement basis, which are sold in 25 kg bags. One bag of this mixture is enough for one door.
• First, they make the upper slope, and then proceed to the side slopes. When everything is ready, the plaster must be completely dry so that its surface can be sanded with sandpaper.
  Then it is covered with a primer - and you can at least paint it, at least paste it with wallpaper from the inside.
• If you do not want to plaster, you can make slopes from sheets of plastic or drywall. A little instruction, however, will not hurt you.
  It is necessary to navigate which material for the slope can be used, based on how the door is finished, or the wall adjacent to it.
• If we are talking about the outer side of the slope overlooking the entrance, then here you have to: either plaster it, or sheathe it with drywall, and then paint it. Plastic can be used to finish the part that is inside the apartment, if there are such walls in the hallway.

• To finish the slopes after installing the metal door looked harmonious, it is better to use the material with which you lined the door. Considering that MDF and laminate most often have a wood texture, then the slopes can also be made of wood, choosing the material by color.
• A wooden slope on the front door will look appropriate and beautiful. First, the mounting seams are sealed with foam, then its excess is cut off.
  The wall is cleaned and treated with a primer, after which the starting strips are mounted, which are attached to the wall with dowels.
• The top slope is installed first. You can fix it with glue or self-tapping screws - then their caps will then need to be closed with decorative plugs.
  The seams of the slope are sealed with a colorless silicone sealant and closed with plastic corners or a casing.

What is good about the wooden trim of the slope of the front door - you can even arrange a backlight in it. Then you don't have to fumble for the switch in the dark. Spotlights built into the upper slope will automatically light up when the door is opened.

Sections of the article:

In the process of carrying out repair work in an apartment or a private house, it often becomes necessary to replace many coatings and systems. This includes windows and doors. After the installation of the front door is completed, an inaccurate opening remains with potholes in the partitions and a damaged coating. The finishing of these surfaces is carried out precisely in order to hide such working imperfections at the installation site of the front door. For such lining from the inside, a wide variety of materials are used, which you can see in the photo in this article. Moreover, today in the building materials market, each consumer can choose for himself exactly what is needed and suitable for the interior of the hallway.

Finishing materials

Well-executed finishing of the front door will add aesthetics, accuracy and completeness to the room. Today, many people are concerned about how to finish the front door with the highest quality. Which material, texture or color to choose?

The main task is to achieve such a result that would allow the front door from the side of the dwelling to fit as harmoniously and naturally as possible into the realized design idea of ​​the hallway.

Before proceeding with the choice of material for finishing around the front door space, it is necessary to take into account a number of general requirements or wishes. For example, in a situation where the doors from the rooms lead to the hallway, it makes sense to make the front door a little different from the rest. After all, the front door is the main one.

If the hallway is not too spacious, or even cramped, you can consider the option of mirroring the front door. This option will not only create the illusion of increasing space, but also from an aesthetic point of view it will look very impressive. True, such a solution is not recommended to be implemented if there are small children in the home.

Also an important point when choosing the type of finishing of the front door is the need to carry out the insulation of the structure. It is better to lay the insulation on the inside, otherwise the material will not last too long. First of all, this rule applies to common staircases and private houses.

Most often, wood, natural leather or its substitutes, plastic panels, MDF are used as a material for finishing the inside of the front door. In addition, you can use self-adhesive film or paint.

In addition, we must not forget about the decoration of the doorway. Given the fact that residential premises are usually characterized by stability and constancy of internal temperatures, the front door can be lined with siding, plaster, decorative stone or clapboard.

Insulation and finishing of the door leaf

The first step is to prepare a heater, for example, foam. As a rule, the inner part of a metal door is equipped with stiffeners, forming a kind of cell. According to the size of these sections, it is necessary to cut out pieces of foam, the thickness of which will be about 30-40 mm.

The next step is to use a foam gun. It is necessary to apply a contour along the perimeter of each section, and two additional strips of the composition inside the recess. After that, the prepared piece of foam is glued. Identical operations should be performed with all cells in the door. It is important not to forget and leave a place for installing a door lock.

After that, it is necessary to prepare a place for finishing the inner surface of the door. For this purpose, a mounting plate is used. A sheet of plywood and self-tapping screws are installed in her pocket, with the help of which fastening to the door will take place. The bar must be fixed on three sides, with the exception of the upper part. This is where the outer upholstery will begin.

It should be emphasized that the plywood used must have moisture resistant properties. In addition, as it is installed, it is recommended to cover it with glossy paint in advance. Now you should take a sheet of plywood together and carefully, so as not to damage the foam, push it inside the installed mounting plate.

After that, it is necessary to smear the top of the plywood with prepared glue and install another part of the mounting plate on it. There is no need to fix it with screws.

On the resulting surface, you can stuff a layer of leatherette or another finish option.

Finishing the door portal

To minimize heat loss through the doorway, it is necessary to approach its sealing as responsibly as possible. The main role in achieving this result is played by the finishing of the slopes of the front door, which are to be faced after the completion of the main installation work.

There are several basic options for finishing the front door jambs. Among the main ones, plastering, the use of MDF panels, the installation of gypsum boards with subsequent painting, and the installation of a laminate should be highlighted. The first step is to level the slopes with plaster mortar or using drywall sheets. The first option is more laborious. For plastering slopes, it will be necessary to prepare a cement-sand mixture, and also use special paint corners for better leveling.

The space between the corners must be filled with mortar and gently smooth the surface with a spatula. After the plaster has dried, you can continue finishing the slopes with any material. In addition to the described method, it is possible to use slabs for cladding GKL. They must be pre-cut into pieces of the required size. To fix the GKL plates, a frame or frameless method is used. In the second case, an adhesive mixture is used. Let's take a closer look at some finishes.

Making the opening with plastic panels

Finishing the front door from the inside with plastic panels is especially popular among consumers. This is due to the affordable price and ease of installation of these structures. As a result of the implementation of such a technical solution, homeowners receive an impeccably even and outstanding coating that will add aesthetics to any interior.
The main advantages of plastic are simplicity and ease of installation, ease of maintenance, moisture resistance, resistance to different temperatures. In addition, plastic panels for door trim do not fade in the sun. Also, an important advantage of this solution is the absence of the need for preliminary preparatory work before installing the panels. The surface on which the panel will be laid does not need to be leveled.

Arrangement of the opening with a stone

The use of stone as a finishing material will not only add aesthetics to the hallway, but can make its appearance simply chic. Often, with this type of lining, artificial plates of small thickness are used. It is best to give preference to a stone no more than 4 mm thick.

For fixing stone slabs, a special composition. The use of a self-adhesive base will protect the material from kinks and cracking. The most popular solution for such a finish is to use a solid piece of stone. Such a cladding will look aesthetically pleasing, elegant, visually resembling a monolithic piece of stone. Such a door finish will look really beautiful with the corresponding decoration of the door portal.

Other options

It should be noted that not all consumers can afford finishing the space near the front door with decorative stone. This is a rather expensive material, so MDF panels or laminate can be used as an alternative. They are not worse than monolithic stone slabs, but they have a number of specific differences. The advantage of these materials is their availability and ease of use.

Laminate is a more practical option over MDF panels. This material is relatively inexpensive, beautiful and outwardly neat. Both laminate and MDF have a long service life, moisture resistance, and are also resistant to cleaners and disinfectants. To slightly improve the aesthetic characteristics of the inside of the front door, you can make a natural veneer over the MDF. This will add prestige and elegance to the appearance of the entire structure.

In a small hallway of an ordinary-sized apartment, the front door looks great, in the decoration of the space near which natural wood elements are used. And if the cladding pattern is combined with the ornament of the furniture installed in the hallway, then the interior of the room will become as harmonious as possible. A more expensive option is wood veneer.

Recently, a combination of different materials has been increasingly used for decoration. With this combination, it is important to pay attention to their compatibility, quality and reliable installation. To carry out the work, you will need certain tools and materials. First of all, it is polystyrene foam (polyurethane foam), mounting foam, a plywood sheet about 9 mm thick, a foam cutting knife, waterproof construction glue and a special mounting plate with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

Even the most luxurious front door will look unpresentable if the slopes around it are sloppy. They are designed to serve as a beautiful frame, complement and highlight the main element -. To decide how to trim the slopes of the front door, you need to pay attention to its style, design and color scheme. The slopes framing the entrance inside the apartment must correspond not only to the decorative parameters of the door, but also to the design of the hallway.

In addition to a purely decorative function, these elements around should also serve as additional effective insulation, since their plane closes the joints between the door frame and the wall.

How can slopes be trimmed?

Finishing the slopes in the front door can be made from different materials, or you can simply put the existing slopes in order.

1. If the door is reliable and strong, but not outstanding in design, you can simply level the slopes with plaster, strengthening their corners. Such work is usually carried out both from the side of the entrance and in the hallway.

Plastered slopes will look neat enough - they can be painted in a color close to the shade of the door itself or to match the wallpaper in the hallway.

2. In case when the walls of the house are thick enough, and the slopes are wide, you can use such familiar material as drywall for finishing. It will make the walls warmer and securely close the joints between the door frame and the wall, giving the slopes a neat look.

Drywall, if desired, can be pasted over with wallpaper or covered with paint. The advantage of this material is that you do not need to painfully level the plaster with the help of a rule, and then clean the wall.

3. You can make slopes from natural wood, if it is suitable for finishing the door. The tree has always been popular and has never gone out of fashion, it goes well with almost any interior, and its tinting can be easily changed using modern or folk remedies.

The tree will reliably serve for many years without changing its natural decorative properties. In extreme cases, it can be painted to match the color of the hallway.

4. An alternative to wood can be laminated lining based on fiberboard.

Since the lining is produced in various colors and imitates textured drawings of a wide variety of wood species, it can be matched to any hallway design. However, it is not recommended to trim the slopes on the outside of the door with this material, since it will not last there for a long time.

5. Another finishing option can be finished PVC panels. They are produced in various widths and in a rich range of colors. The production and sale of such parts is carried out by specialized companies in which craftsmen work and install panels.

This finish looks respectable and aesthetically pleasing. PVC panels will last for a long time, but it is also better to install them from the side of the apartment, and from the side of the entrance, use the first or second method described above for finishing.

If you have confidence in your abilities, then the finished parts of the slopes can be installed independently.

Another option for using polymers to finish the inside of the door can be plastic lining. It is also easy to match the color of the walls of the hallway, as a wide range of this material is on sale.

6. Slopes are also sheathed with chipboard panels - they are mainly used for very thick walls. However, it should be noted that at present this method of finishing is not becoming very popular, since a large number of other materials have appeared that can easily replace these rather heavy panels in installation.

Nevertheless, if this material of the required size was found at home, then it can be used to design door slopes from the side of the apartment.

It should be noted that there are other materials that can be used to tidy up the planes around the door, but the above options are the most popular.

Tools and building materials for finishing slopes

To finish the slopes, you will need materials and tools that will help to carry out all the work neatly.

1. For plastering you will need:

• primer and finishing putty for surface preparation.
• plaster mix or traditional cement mortar.
• perforated metal corner for leveling corners.
• a sickle mesh, a clerical knife and self-tapping screws will be needed if the slopes are made of drywall.
• sandpaper coarse and fine-grained.
• wide and medium spatula.
• a shortened rule for leveling the surface of the slopes.
• a container for mixing the solution, a drill with a special mixing nozzle
• plumb and level.

2. For the installation of panels made of different materials, it is necessary to prepare:

• ready-made panels for installation on slopes or material for them.
• decorative corners and platbands for closing panel joints.
• timber with a section of 15 × 30 or 20 × 30 mm, if lining is to be installed.
• dowels for attaching panels or timber to the wall.
• small carnations and special holders for lining.
• a drill with an impact function or a hammer drill if the house has concrete walls.
• self-tapping screws for fastening panels.
• measuring tools.
• hacksaw or jigsaw, screwdriver, knife, hammer, etc.

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to surface preparation and installation.

Technology for finishing slopes in the front door

Each type of work on finishing slopes has its own characteristics:

• The installation of many of the presented materials is carried out using the same technology.
• Some of the finishing technologies are distinguished by their simplicity, and with the right approach to work, they may well be performed independently.
• Others can be used for self-use only if the homeowner has the necessary skills in working with building mixtures and tools.

All measures for the installation of slopes begin after the door is installed and all the gaps between the door jamb and the wall are sealed. In addition, all chipped parts of the old coating are removed from the slopes and crumbling areas are cleaned. When these works are carried out, they begin to finish in the chosen way.

Finishing slopes with plastering

If a decision is made to level and plaster the slopes, the process goes to next sequence:

• First of all, the cleaned surface should be well primed, preferably in two layers, but the second time the primer is applied only after the first layer has dried.
• Next, the evenness of the angles of the slopes is clarified. If deviations from the norm are determined, then this fact must be taken into account when installing reinforcing corners. They can align angles that have small deviations from the vertical.

• Then it is necessary to set the perforated corners at the corners of the slopes along the plumb line and level. They are best planted on finishing putty, sold ready-made. It is applied with a spatula to the corners of the slopes - the composition will serve to glue the corner and make it possible to align it to a perfectly vertical or horizontal position. Excess mortar that comes through the holes in the corner should be immediately removed with a spatula. Having brought the corners to the ideal, the mortar under the corners is left to dry.
• If the slope surface is uneven, then before installing perforated corners on the corners, you can set the direction from the door jamb by fixing a narrow strip of drywall 8-10 mm wide along it. This material is fixed to the wall with putty. If it is on a gypsum basis, then its solidification occurs quite quickly.
• The edge of the drywall strip and the installed reinforcing corner will become points that need to be connected with a putty solution and leveled with plaster.
• Further, after the elements correcting the wall have dried, the putty is diluted in the proportions indicated on the package to a pasty consistency.

• Using a trowel, throw the finished composition onto the wall, starting from the floor. Having sketched the required amount, about a meter high, the putty is leveled with a rule. In this case, the beacons are a perforated corner fixed at the corner and a drywall strip fixed along the door frame.

• Then the solution is thrown onto the next section and also leveled, and so on until the top of the opening.
• The ceiling part of the opening will be more difficult to putty. Putty is applied to it with a wide spatula and leveled with a short rule. Then putty is applied to the wall above the doorway, and it closes the upper part of the metal corner.

• The putty-treated slopes are left to dry. The time of this process depends on the thickness of the layer and the composition of the putty.
• After drying this layer, you need to check the quality of the surface, remove possible minor flaws - chip or clean the incoming bumps. Then the slopes must be brought out with a finishing putty to perfect evenness.
• Further, after drying the putty layer, it is covered with a primer.

The resulting surface can be painted, wallpapered or finished with decorative plaster.

Video: finishing door slopes with plaster mixes

Prices for popular types of putty

Putties

Finishing door slopes with plasterboard

It is easier and more pleasant to work with drywall than with plastering slopes. Nevertheless, in this case, you still have to work with finishing putty, which will play the role of an adhesive for drywall sheets, but it’s still better to use special gypsum-based glue instead, which is produced specifically for working with GVL.

If space is limited, then drywall is the best fit for decorating slopes. Carry out this process in the following sequence:

• To begin with, all slope surfaces are measured. separately.
• The data obtained is transferred to GVL sheets, and elements are cut out according to them, which will be fixed to the walls.

• Installation of finished parts begins with the ceiling of the opening. To do this, glue is applied to the drywall blank in several slides, and then this element is firmly pressed against the installation site and fixed in this position by pre-prepared supports.

• Then, the slope walls are trimmed with parts cut from the GVL. Glue is also placed on the prepared element in small slides, and the sheet is pressed against the wall and measured by level. Drywall sheets can be fixed to the wall with driven dowels, making through, but not too wide holes for them with an electric drill or puncher.

• At the corners of the slopes, in the same way as when plastering, metal perforated corners are fixed with putty.
• Then all joints are smeared with putty, leveled, and after drying, they are carefully cleaned.
• Further, the entire surface of the slope is covered with a primer.
• To achieve an ideal surface, a thin (no more than 1 mm) layer of finishing putty is applied. It will finally hide all the bumps, joints and holes from the dowels.
• After the putty layer has completely solidified and, if necessary, sanded with fine-grained sandpaper, you can proceed to the decorative design of the slopes. They can be painted, pasted over or covered with decorative plaster.

Drywall is fixed in another way, in the event that it is necessary to level the surface, covering a significant thickness from the wall.

• To do this, bars of the desired section or metal profiles, corners or U-shaped are fixed to the surface of the slope, thus creating crate, which will help align the wall, giving it the necessary direction. This method of fastening has the advantage that insulation material can be additionally laid between the rails fixed to the wall.

• This whole structure is then covered with drywall, which is screwed to the bars with self-tapping screws. Further, the process proceeds in the same way as in the first variant.

Video: finishing door slopes with drywall - ceiling part

Video: continuation of the video about finishing slopes with drywall

Finishing slopes with panels or clapboard

For finishing slopes with materials that are produced in the form of rigid panels - fiberboard, lining of various types, MDF and others, a similar technology for attaching them to the wall is used. This method is attractive in that with the help of panels it is possible to align corners that have large deviations from the norm.

Work on the installation of such materials is carried out as follows:

• The primed surfaces of the slopes are marked for fixing bars or a metal profile on them, on which the finishing material will be fixed in the future. These auxiliary elements are located at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other if they are installed across the slope. In this case, if lining is used for finishing, it will be attached parallel to the door frame. If it is necessary for the panels to be located across the surface, then the bar is fastened along the jamb and closer to the slope angle. For a wide surface, not two, but three or even four bars are used.

• You can also carry out the crate as shown in the picture - this option is used to fix the lining parallel to the door.
• After installing the crate, it is recommended to lay insulation material between the bars - it can be mineral wool, polystyrene foam or one of the other modern heaters.
• Further, along the crate, the selected facing material is installed. Solid flat panels are installed end-to-end with each other, while the lining is connected by a groove-thorn fastener.

• Plastic and laminated lining is fixed to the bars from the side of the groove part of the lock with the help of special metal holders, which, with their protrusion, are put on the bottom shelf of the groove and fastened with small nails or self-tapping screws to the guide.

• Panels of large area are screwed to the crate with self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be “drowned” by 1.5–2 mm into the thickness of the material. These holes are later sealed with wood putty with the addition of a dye of the appropriate shade.
• Having finished with the installation of panels, the appearance of the slopes must be ennobled with corners matched to the color of the cladding. The corners are glued on the outer vertical and horizontal corners and at the junction of the door frame and the finishing material.

Features of vinyl slopes

The most modern way to transform the slopes is the installation of vinyl panels. They can be purchased at specialized companies that are engaged in both the manufacture and installation of this finishing material. If it has a non-standard shape of slopes, then they are made to order, after measuring the parameters. The surface of the slopes can imitate many natural materials, so they can be matched to literally any interior of the hallway and the color of the front door.

The most important advantages of ready-made panels in their installation are its speed and the absence of a large amount of debris and dirt in the process. It is impossible not to say about the aesthetic qualities of this finish - it is cut exactly to the size of the slopes and has no joints and seams on the planes. The only joints that cannot be abandoned are the joints of horizontal and vertical planes. The material looks very presentable and neat.

For the installation of such slopes, a universal adhesive is used, which has the properties of firmly connecting various materials to each other, such as wood and concrete, brick and chipboard, vinyl and plaster surfaces - almost everything used in construction and decoration. In addition, they are often attached to the mounting polyurethane foam.

Such adhesives are applied to the inside surface of the trim panels and they are pressed against the slopes around the door. In this case, it is not necessary to drill holes in the facing material and walls, which can also be called an indisputable advantage of this installation technology.

By doing the work in stages and adhering to the technology, it is quite possible to independently complete the work on finishing the door slopes. Even without the opportunity to purchase material for decoration, many apartment owners use what is at hand, for example, chipboard panels from used furniture. But still, the most affordable and easy to install (except for ready-made vinyl panels) is the option using. It opens up wide possibilities for finishing decoration by almost any existing methods.

From the article you will learn:

When purchasing an iron door in most cases, the buyer receives it with the simplest level of finish. Unfortunately, the manufacturer does not always provide in its range of door models with already installed finishing materials of high quality.

As you might guess, the whole point is the financial side of the issue. Companies that produce this type of product are oriented primarily to the mass buyer, and he, as a rule, is very constrained financially. So manufacturers have to reduce the cost of the production process as much as possible in order to optimize the costs allocated for the production of products.

In these realities, a person who decides to buy an iron door, in order to get a beautiful appearance, needs to independently, what is called “bring it to mind”, that is, to finish it with his own hands. Due to the fact that the Russian market of finishing materials is ready to offer the end customer a wide range of a wide variety of solutions, it seems that there should be no problems with choosing the right option.

So, consider the most popular types of finishing materials for iron doors today.

Powder coating

Spraying on the outer side of the door of a special powder composition is carried out only in workshop conditions, using a high-temperature furnace for this purpose. In order for the spraying to be carried out in compliance with all necessary standards, the door blank, the surface of which is pre-coated with a special powder, is placed in an oven heated to four hundred degrees Celsius.

Under the influence of such an environment, the powder is melted. After maintaining a certain time interval, the door blank is removed and forced to cool. At the end of this procedure, the applied powder coating acquires a characteristic strength, which in its properties is higher than the strength of other coating mixtures.

wood veneer

“Veneer ... how much is mysterious in this word” - one would like to say this phrase in relation to the text of this article. But really! Not many people know. Veneer is called dried wooden planks, fastened together under pressure of several atmospheres.

The decoration of the canvas with veneer is made by a set of wooden planks in such a way that a pattern is obtained on the surface of the door. To protect against dust and dirt, the wooden components are varnished. To prevent the material from losing its original color, a colorless varnish is selected for application.

Currently, the external finish of an iron door with veneer is in second place in popularity, after finishing with vinyl-leather, which will be discussed below.

Vinyl leather

Finishing the outer part of an iron door with vinyl leather is still the most popular way to beautifully and inexpensively decorate the entrance to an apartment. The advantages that this material has make it the best use in terms of price / quality ratio. Here are its advantages:

• excellent level of thermal and sound insulation;
• wide range of available color palette;
• long service life;
• low cost.

Nevertheless, for all its merits, this material has one significant drawback - it breaks even when touched with not the sharpest objects. For example, it's easier than ever to damage it with a bunch of keys.

Laminate

The use of laminate for finishing an iron door on the outside is currently not yet widespread. But this material has many positive qualities: it is resistant to impacts (but not with sharp objects), its palette has many available colors, plus its care is notable for its simplicity. Laminate does not need to be cleaned - its smooth surface is quickly and effectively cleaned with a damp cloth. With all this, it is not predisposed to operation in conditions of significant humidity.

So, in this article, we examined the possibilities of modern door finishing material presented on the Russian market. To finally decide on how to finish the iron front door, it is enough to dwell on one of the above material options. Meanwhile, the option of using finishing, which includes the possibility of using several materials at once, also has the right to life.

The easiest and most popular way to give the door an attractive appearance is to upholster it with some kind of material. This can be done both from the premises and from the outside, you just have to use different materials and different technologies. But in any case, the process is called "door upholstery." About all the subtleties and nuances - below.

How can you beat the door

There are two types of door upholstery - soft and hard. Soft is made from two materials - leatherette (leatherette) and vinyl leather. Leatherette is a woven cotton base coated with a film of nitrocellulose. This material was popular in the 40-60s of the last century, as it was practical and inexpensive. A little later, vinyl artificial leather appeared.

A little bit about vinyl leather and leatherette

This material is made on different bases - woven and non-woven, stretching and not. Accordingly, artificial leather has different properties. A layer of polyvinyl chloride (PVC or PVC) is applied to the base. It is more durable, chemically neutral. It has only one significant drawback - it reacts poorly to ultraviolet rays - it loses elasticity, changes color, and may crack. Therefore, the upholstery of doors that go directly to the street is undesirable with vinyl leather. There is, however, a material with increased resistance to UV rays, but this is a special material and you should pay attention to this when buying.

Now about a little confusion in terminology. Dermantine in its pure form, as it was in the last century, has not been produced for quite a long time. Instead, there are different types of vinyl faux leather. There are also materials coated with other polymers, but not so many. Here they are, according to old memory, and are called dermantin or leatherette (although it is correct, by the way, to say “dermatin” without “n”). So seeing this name, it is necessary to clarify what kind of material is meant, since the properties and prices differ significantly.

Despite the fact that the material is essentially the same, it has different characteristics and appearance. There are elastic types that stretch well, there are hard ones that are difficult to stretch. In addition, modern artificial leather has many colors and shades, it can have a different surface structure:

So the choice of soft upholstery materials for the door is extensive. Apparently, this is the determining factor in the popularity of this type of door upholstery.

Rigid upholstery for the door

There are more hard upholstery materials for doors, although they are used less often:

• MDF panels with a thickness of 8 mm to 18 mm;
• natural wood - fragments, solid wood;
• veneer;
• laminate;
• plastic;
• postforming.

From this list, most often the doors are trimmed with MDF overlays / panels. Such upholstery is especially popular for decorating metal doors, including home-made ones. The panels are made according to the dimensions of a particular door leaf, after which they are installed on glue or mounting foam in fixed starting strips. In this case, and makes sense.

From the catalog - options for MDF overlays, and all this is still in different colors ...

In practice, the door trim is also covered with other materials - laminate, plastic, postforming. Starting profiles are installed along the perimeter of the door, into which fragments of trim trimmed “to size” are inserted. Everything is simple, if you have basic skills in working with a drill, saw and hammer, you can do it yourself in a few hours.

Door upholstery with dermantine

The most popular way to trim a door is with artificial leather. Such a department allows, simultaneously with improving the appearance, to increase the indicators of heat and sound insulation. But this type of door upholstery also has disadvantages - this is the most complex technological process that requires at least general ideas about the procedure.

Upholstery methods

We will talk about the technology of upholstery of doors with dermantine. You can attach it in two ways: with a roller around the perimeter of the door leaf and without it. Depending on this, the order of actions changes (more on that later).

Upholstery of doors with dermantine - with and without a roller

For banners, you can use the same material that upholstered the doors. It is cut into strips 2.5-3 cm wide, attached to the upper nails, and then pulled and fixed by the next nails, a pattern is formed. To secure the strip, it can be wrapped around a nail that is not completely driven in, which is then hammered. But this option is suitable if the decorative nails have large hats. If the hats are small, the strips are nailed.

Also, a pattern can be formed using a thin metal flexible cable, but it is more difficult to fix it - it bends worse.

How and how to attach leatherette to the door leaf

If upholstery of a wooden door is necessary, there are usually no questions - they are fastened with staples from a stapler, then nailed along the contour with decorative nails. Only here there are nuances: the staples should be with a wide back (at least 1 mm), and the nails should be wallpaper, with a wide hat. Fastener installation step - from 2.5 to 7 cm, as desired.

More questions arise when it is necessary to cover an iron door with leatherette. There is only one way out - to put on glue. Glue is usually used "Moment", but you can use any other universal glue that can be used to glue both metal and leatherette. They lubricate the flashing from the inside (a bar that goes along the perimeter of the door and closes the junction of the canvas with the door frame). When fixing vinyl artificial leather, it is cut out with a margin of 15 cm, just for the hem from both sides to the wrong side.

Materials for heat and noise insulation

Most often, foam rubber is used to insulate the door. It is inexpensive, if desired, allows you to form a three-dimensional convex pattern. The most common case is two layers of foam rubber 1 cm each. This option is not the best - foam rubber has almost no effect on the soundproof properties of the door, and this is sometimes very important. In addition, after 3-4 years, it loses elasticity, begins to stick together, you have to re-upholster the door, although the appearance of the leatherette is still quite decent.

All this is true, but there are no worthy competitors for foam rubber yet. There are materials with certain properties that can be laid instead of one of the layers, and the second one will still be foam rubber. For example, to improve the soundproofing properties, you can use "Isoton". It is used for heat and sound insulation of cars. Sold in small sheets, the back side is coated with an adhesive, protected by a plastic film. So there will be no problems with installation. Of the minuses - the price and the rather large weight of the material. To avoid problems, it is worth replacing the loops with more powerful ones.

There are two other materials used in the automotive industry with similar properties. These are "Splen" and "Vibrofilter". All of them are made on an adhesive basis, can be used to improve the characteristics of the door.

How to beat a wooden door

It is more convenient to work on the removed door, but if this is a problem, you can upholster it right on the spot. First you need to remove all fittings from the door leaf - locks, latches, door peephole. If there is old upholstery, it is carefully removed. If a part of the door needs repair, the damaged fragments are removed and replaced with cut-to-size wooden ones. Slots can be covered with putty or foamed with mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion.

If there was a pattern on the upholstery, and in principle it suits you, we drive ordinary nails into the places where the nails forming the pattern were driven in. We do not hammer them to the end, the hats should stick out by 1-1.5 cm. With their help, we will then break through the foam rubber and upholstery in the right places (just press with your fingers, all layers will push through). We will pull out ordinary nails, install decorative ones in their place, and with the help of tape we will form a pattern. The procedure is simple.

with roller

To make the end of the door look no worse than the rest of the plane, we start with it. If you are not going to finish one of the sides, skip this step, just paint the end with paint to match the finish on one or the other side. If we upholster the doors on both sides, we cut out a strip of material about 10 cm wide. More precisely, look at your door, since the thickness of the canvas is different. The strip should cover the end and go to one and the other side by 3-4 cm. Lay the strip, fasten along the edge with staples from a stapler (faster and easier) or nails with a large flat head.

To form a roller, a strip of material is also needed. Width - 10-15 cm, depending on how wide you want the roller. Next, there are two options:

The difference between these two methods is only in appearance: in the first case, the nails are nailed along the edge of the upholstery (in the photo on the right), in the second - along the edge of the roller (in the photo on the left). Choose whichever you like best. For example, it seems to me that the first option (on the right) looks better - more neat. But this is just a personal opinion.

What is this roller for? In order to cover possible gaps between the canvas and the jamb. Thus, we avoid the appearance of drafts and reduce heat loss. But you can make a roller only if the doors are upholstered from the opening side (the doors open into the apartment, so we upholster them from the inside). If, on the other hand, this focus does not pass, it will not close. Then you have to do without a roller.

In this case, everything is simple: the canvas is tucked evenly, fixed with nails or staples - as it suits you best.

Door upholstery process in photo format

To reduce the noise level, the doors are upholstered with one layer of sound insulation and one layer of foam rubber. The option with preliminary production of the roller is chosen. First, they removed the old fittings, cut in a new lock. The lining and handle were removed, the internal parts remained in place. Let's move on to the door trim.

We immediately form a roller - we put narrow foam rubber in a strip of leatherette, fasten it along the perimeter of the door. It is more convenient to do this with staples from a stapler.

The next step is to fix the soundproofing. It is on an adhesive basis, so there are no problems - they cut it to size, carefully removing the film and glued it. When gluing, we try to squeeze out all the air, for this we tear off the film gradually, ironing the material from edge to edge.

Now we fix foam rubber 1 cm thick. In this embodiment, the most convenient way is staples from a construction stapler. First, we fasten along the perimeter, then often - along the surface of the door, so that the foam rubber fits snugly.

The foam rubber is cut out with a small margin, after installation, the excess is cut off.

We tuck the upper edge by 2-3 cm, we begin to fasten from the upper left corner. There we hammer in the first nail, then we straighten the material and nail the second one at the top right. Then, in increments of 3-4 cm, we nail the upholstery from one edge to the other with finishing nails.

We fasten from the side of the loops, tucking the edge inward. Straighten evenly so that there are no creases at the top.

After the same operation is repeated from the side of the castle, then below. Actually, the upholstery of the doors is almost finished, it is only necessary to install the fittings in place.

Video tutorials on the topic

Vinyl leather for door upholstery is sold both by the meter and in sets. In some sets, the mounting method may be different: they have plastic profiles that are attached around the perimeter of the door leaf. These profiles have a fixation system similar to the one used in stretch ceilings.

The following video captures the process using roll material.

How to insulate and upholster the front door. The technique of forming a roller of the second type - it is nailed last.

How to upholster metal doors

The front part of metal doors is rarely upholstered - it already has a very attractive appearance. The inner part suffers more often. That's what we'll talk about.

On the inside of the iron door there is a frame. In some models it is metal, in others it is wooden. Thermal insulation material is laid between the slats of the frame. It can be foam or mineral wool boards. They are attached to mounting foam, which has a very small coefficient of expansion (mandatory!). From above, everything is closed with a sheet of plywood or OSB. This is the standard option. If the planks are wooden, everything is fine, there are no problems - the doors will not freeze through. But if the frame inside the door is metal, in good frosts everything will freeze through - through cold bridges, which are metal ribs. To prevent this from happening, a layer of "Isoton" or "Splen" is again laid on top of the foam / mineral wool, and plywood is already on them.

The remaining processes for upholstery of a metal door are very similar to those described above. All the difference is in the method of fixation: the upholstery is glued to a suitable high-quality glue. The excess is immediately cut off at the junction using a sharp wallpaper knife.

This is where the classic mistake was made - there is no layer that cuts off the bridges of cold. Everything else is shown well.