Installing a steel bath: tips and tricks. Do-it-yourself acrylic bath installation: step-by-step installation of an acrylic bath on a frame Installed in the bathroom

The most common on the market are steel baths. One of the advantages of such containers is their relatively low cost and light weight, due to which the installation steel bath with your own hands is quite real.

The most common shape of steel bathtubs is rectangular. And in the kit of such a container there are always legs. Baths with curved shapes are also produced, in which case you need to pay attention to the presence of additional supports or a special reinforcing frame.

The first step is to bring the pipes to the installation site of the mixer. For this, it is better to use metal-plastic flexible pipes. Laying them along the bottom of the wall is not difficult, fixing them with special devices that are installed on the wall with self-tapping screws into dowels.

Laying pipes in the bathroom

At the place where the pipes turn in a vertical direction, about 50 cm from the floor, two grooves must be made according to the thickness of the pipes and pipes should be placed in them. Fasten with staples. To the ends of the pipes, immediately screw the corners for installing the mixer. The axial distance between the angle outlets must correspond to the average axial distance between the mixer eccentrics.

Seal the strobes with pipes using alabaster in order to speed up the process of solidification of the mass. Clean the installation site of the bath from debris, dirt.

Steel bath installation options

First of all, you need to make sure that dimensions the fonts match the dimensions of the bathroom, otherwise the installation will be laborious or even impossible.

On stock legs

As a rule, bathtubs are equipped with supports, which also need to be paid attention to. The desire of manufacturers to reduce the cost of their products to make them more attractive often has the opposite effect - legs can only be used theoretically:

• the container must be dragged into the bathroom and placed directly at the installation site upside down;
• mount the siphon - for this, screw the bushings of the upper and lower drains into the openings of the vessel. In this case, you must not forget to set rubber gaskets from the bath kit, pre-treating them with silicone sealant. Connect both holes with a corrugated tube. Install a corrugated pipe on the siphon outlet, which, after installation is completed, will be connected to the opening of the gravity sewer pipe;

Bathtub siphon with overflow drain system

• install the legs - the most practical and reliable supports "P" - about different shapes self-adhesive. They have a slight deflection along the length, which eliminates unnecessary contact with the body of the bath. The places of contact between the self-adhesive plates and the body must be degreased with acetone, followed by drying for 7-10 minutes;

Steel bath legs

• assemble a regulating system consisting of threaded rods with plastic supports and nuts. Screw the studs almost to the stop with the body. By unscrewing the studs when installing the baths, it will be possible to level the level of the bath. Install the assembled legs on the bottom of the bathtub and press for strong adhesion to the body;

Mounting legs is best done on an inverted bath

Bathtub leg adjustment

Bath grounding

• turn the bath over, set it in place;
• check the horizontalness along the diagonals of the bath. To do this, you need to take a rule or a long ruler, place the bathtub diagonally and apply a level. There should be a slight slope towards the drain, the same for both diagonals.

Installing a bathtub on legs

If adjustment is necessary, use the adjusting screws that the legs are equipped with, and then fix their position with lock nuts.

Bath installation diagram

To the corner of the room

With this arrangement of the container, two sides of the bath will be in contact with the walls. To get reliable installation steel bath along the short side of the bath, it is necessary to make an additional support.

The procedure is as follows:

• drill 5 holes with a diameter of 5.5 mm in the support shelf of the corner 32x32 mm;
• according to the holes obtained, mark the places for drilling holes in the wall and drill them with a 6.5 mm drill;

Special brackets for fixing the bathtub to the wall

• insert bushings (dowels) into the holes and screw the corner to the wall;
• move the bath into place, seal the gaps between the wall and the container with silicone sealant;
• in the future, install ceramic skirting boards in this place.

Fixing the bathtub with special brackets

Between the walls

Bathroom designers consider standard sizes capacities, so such a coincidence is very likely. Three contact lines and support brackets are available on both short sides of the tub. The order of execution is the same as described above.

Installing a steel bath between walls

In the middle of the room

In this design, bathtubs are installed in own houses where it is possible to arrange a non-standard drain system. The container is installed on bricks and lined with brickwork, which ensures its stability, and then tiles. A feature of this installation is the presence of a niche at the bottom of the lining with a depth of half the length of the human foot. In this case, the legs are not used.

Installing a steel bath on bricks

Many consider this method to be preferable, especially those who are familiar with brickwork, and also if the height of the bath on standard legs for some reason does not suit the owner.

To raise the bath to the desired level, you can put bricks under the legs

As an installation option metal container is its installation on decorative legs, if the bath is made with design decoration outside.

Materials and tools for installation

The necessary materials and tools are summarized in the table.

When installing a bath, you should follow some rules:

• before replacing the bathtub, it is better to consult with specialists, because innovations are constantly being introduced in this matter that will be useful in the performance of work;

Proper connection of the bath to the sewer

• be sure to make a bath grounding, because the use of electrical appliances in the bathroom is by no means uncommon, these are hair dryers and electric shavers and much more. No one has canceled the safety rules yet;
• the space under the bathroom before placing it must be carefully treated with antiseptics;
• brickwork also requires the same processing when it is used to mount a container. Otherwise, damage to the masonry is inevitable. A bathtub that is completely closed with masonry must have a vent for moisture to escape.

When renovating a bathroom and self replacement plumbing, such a problem as the correct installation of the font necessarily arises, since aspects such as comfort during the adoption of water procedures and the service life of the entire structure depend on how well this operation is performed. Correct installation do-it-yourself acrylic bath consists in the exact sequence of actions that include the assembly of the structure itself, the preparation of the place for installation, and the installation itself. In this article, we will look at options on how to properly install acrylic bath.

One of the main positive qualities of such structures, which favorably distinguishes them from the background of outdated metal models, is their low weight, this quality makes it possible to independently install acrylic bathtubs without resorting to the help of professionals. Installation of an acrylic bathtub is a rather complicated process, since this material is very sensitive to mechanical damage from sharp or heavy objects. It is also not worth delaying the installation for a long time due to the fact that a bathtub made of this material has one unpleasant property during improper or long-term storage, it can change its original shape.

Preparatory work and installation options for an acrylic bath

Before you install an acrylic bath with your own hands, you need to prepare the place and the bath itself for installation, remove everything from the bathroom extra items, dismantle old equipment, prepare necessary tools and materials for installation work. You will need:

• bath;
• legs or frame on which the bowl will be attached;
• a hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• perforator;
• assembly sealant;
• level;
• wrench;
• insulating tape;
• mounting tape (construction tape);
• corrugated pipe;
• spare parts for attaching an acrylic bath to a wall or floor.

Before you install a new acrylic bathroom, you need to do some preparatory work:

• first turn off the water supply to the central tap;
• then dismantle the old bath;
• then crack or cut out the old drain;
• clean the sewer hole;
• insert a new one into the sewer socket corrugated pipe;
• coat with sealant the joint of the corrugation and the sewer hole;
• level the floor for an acrylic bath.

Now you can proceed directly to the installation of new plumbing.

Installing a new acrylic bathtub is carried out using one of the following methods:

• on the metal carcass;
• on support legs;
• on brick supports;
• on a brick podium;
• combined method installation.

Acrylic sanitary ware installation rules and regulations allow any of the above methods to attach a bathtub to a wall or floor, based on its type and model. So, if there is a metal frame in the kit, then it is better to install the font on it, while using the attached instructions. And if special legs are sold along with the bathtub, then an acrylic bathtub must be installed on the legs, since such a support is designed specifically for this model, taking into account the areas of greatest stress.

Let's take a closer look at how to fix an acrylic bathtub in each of the 5 listed methods.

Installing an acrylic bathtub on support legs

This is the fastest and easiest installation method that does not require a set of tools and special skills. The assembly of the bathtub with legs is easy if you use the instructions that are attached to the product. If, according to the instructions or during installation work, it becomes necessary to drill the font, then this should be done with a wood drill at slow speeds. Mounting on the support legs consists of screwing the legs to the bowl and adjusting them in place.

1. Screwing legs. On the lower part of the body of the bath there are special seats marked with stickers or appropriate symbols. To facilitate self-assembly acrylic bath, some manufacturers supply products with already drilled holes. And if they are not, then you need to make these holes yourself. Then the legs are screwed into these holes, otherwise the load will not be distributed evenly and the bath will quickly fail.
2. Support adjustment. Almost all bathtub legs are designed with the ability to adjust the height of the support in order to attach the bowl at the desired slope using a level. First, the bath is installed against the wall, and then the legs are twisted, exposing desired height. After that, they proceed to horizontal alignment, when the level is set on the side of the bath in a horizontal position. If necessary, legs with wrench twist up or down.

When optimal performance are installed, the legs are fixed with nuts in the desired position. Sometimes, for greater reliability, the bathtub is screwed to the wall with special plastic or metal hooks, which are pre-mounted strictly horizontally around the entire perimeter of the bathtub into the wall at the same distance from each other. The hooks are screwed up to the wall cladding.

Mounting on a metal frame

Most reliable way, relatively simple, the main thing is to clearly follow the assembly instructions for the product. In this case, the acrylic bathtub is installed as follows:

1. First of all, you need to assemble the frame, according to the instructions, using long screws that are included in the kit.
2. The product is turned over on its side or upside down, so that it is convenient to fix the frame.
3. Then the frame is installed on the acrylic bath in the center of the bottom, and the legs are attached to the support.
4. Two supports are fixed to the frame in the central part, two more along the wall, and three supports along the outer edge of the font.
5. The legs are then adjusted to the same height so that the height of the tub does not exceed 65 cm for safety and ease of use.
6. After that, the product is turned over, checked building level whether the bath is level.
7. Then the siphon and overflow are connected.
8. If necessary, the font is attached to the wall with hooks or metal corners.
9. Finally, a decorative screen is installed.

An installation option is also possible, when the frame with legs is mounted immediately on the floor, and then a bath is mounted on top of the fixed frame. Most often, additional fasteners installed frame does not require, but if it does not seem reliable to you, then you can strengthen it with additional fastening hooks, which were mentioned above.

How to install a bathtub on brick supports?

In the event that a metal frame is not available, the installation of an acrylic bath is done on a brick podium. This method is not economical, despite the fact that the construction is particularly durable, due to the fact that it requires a huge amount of bricks. Moreover, an excessive load is created on the floors, due to the rather large weight of the finished podium. To reduce the cost of construction, as well as to reduce the load on the floor, it is recommended to install an acrylic bath on brick columns. To create such a design, you can get by with a small amount of mortar and 12 bricks.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Without removing the protective film, the bath is brought into the room and installed at the place of future installation, after which the location of the columns is marked.
2. According to the length of the bath, they mark where 2-3 columns will be located, where one is located in the middle of the bottom, and the other two are at the edges of the bend of the bath.
3. After they take out the bath, they start laying out columns 17-19 cm long so that the height of the bath above the floor level is not more than 60-65 cm.
4. The masonry is allowed to dry for 12-24 hours, after which a siphon is connected to the bath and pushed tightly against the wall, it is installed on the previously made posts.
5. With help silicone sealant fill the gap between the posts and the bottom of the tank.
6. With the help of metal hooks and corners, the edges of the bath are attached to the wall.

Experienced specialists recommend that, prior to installation, apply mounting foam to the bottom surface of the acrylic bath, this little trick will reduce the thermal conductivity and resonating ability of the material. Also, the use of mounting foam during installation reduces the likelihood of damage to the bottom of the acrylic bathtub by brick supports.

Mounting method on a brick podium

In the event that for specific model No metal supports, the installation is done on a brick podium. According to experts, this method is in no way inferior in terms of reliability to the previous version, the only difference is that this method requires more time, while it is somewhat “dirtier” than the previous version. Installation of an acrylic bathtub on the podium is done using a saw, mounting foam, bricks, mortar and moisture-resistant plywood.

Installation is done following the following technology:

1. The bath is temporarily placed in place, while the protective film should not be removed from it, after which the place where the drain hole will be located is marked. This operation needed in order to leave a gap in the podium to connect the drain.
2. Under all supporting part using a mortar, brickwork is made to such a height that the sides are at a height of 60 cm relative to the floor level. You also need to consider that there will still be 2-3 cm of mounting foam between the masonry and the bathroom.
3. Around the brick podium, a frame cut from moisture-resistant plywood is assembled. In this case, it should be taken into account that the height of the plywood should be higher than the podium by the thickness of the foam layer.
4. We evenly fill the brick podium with one layer of mounting foam, after which this layer is covered with a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood of the appropriate size.
5. The bathtub is turned over, mounted on a podium, after which, using the building level, they check how evenly the bathtub is placed.
6. The bath is filled halfway, closing the drain, this is done to evenly solidify the foam. The period of foam drying is 12-24 hours.
7. The bath is connected to a drain with overflow, mounted on a podium and using hooks and metal corner attached to 3 walls.

Worth considering! Nowadays, acrylic baths have a sloping bottom, which accelerates the outflow of water into the drain, so during installation it is not necessary to install the bath on a slope.

Most known method fixing acrylic bathtubs is a combined method when installation is carried out on a metal frame made of aluminum profile, and in order not to bend and deform the bottom, ordinary bricks are used. In order to build such a structure, you will need:

• bricks that will support the bottom of the font;
• for the manufacture of load-bearing structure a metal or aluminum profile is required;
• in order to fix the brickwork, cement mortar is required;
• to seal the seams, it is recommended to use a sealant;
• self-tapping screws will help to assemble the frame;
• for stirring cement mortar, use a special container and a trowel.

Worth remembering! When working with sharp and heavy objects, care should be taken, as an accidentally dropped tool can easily make a hole in the bathroom, thereby damaging the product. It is better to take precautions in advance by covering the font with thick paper or thick film.

In order to properly install an acrylic bathtub on the wall, it is necessary to note what its future height will be, starting from which we will form the height of the brickwork. We measure from the floor to the indicated line, from the results obtained we subtract the height of the bath itself, and what happened will be the thickness of the brick lining on which the bath will be mounted.

It is recommended to start installing an acrylic bathtub against the wall by mounting metal profile, which will subsequently serve as a support for the bath. Then, along the lower level of the edge of the edge of the bathtub, you need to install a metal profile around the entire perimeter with the help of dowels, where the bathtub will come into contact with the wall. It is on him that the sides of the bath will rest. Next, before installing the acrylic bath, we make a brick pillow along the bottom of the bath of the required height.

Need to know! Before fixing acrylic bathtubs in this way, everything must be calculated so that during installation it exactly lies with its sides on the previously installed profile, and the bottom slightly touches the brickwork along it. Attachment to the wall in this situation is done with the help of a sealant, which is applied to the profile, and at the same time is a sealant preventing the flow of water.

Thus, the manufacture of the frame can be considered complete, but you can create a front protective screen from the same metal profile. This screen will allow you to hide inner part and be able to provide additional protection for the outer side, as well as make it possible to make a special hatch for the repair and maintenance of the siphon. You have learned how to properly install an acrylic bath on a do-it-yourself frame.

Bathroom remodeling is always a big deal. financial costs which seriously undermine the family budget. The high cost of finishing is explained by the difficult microclimate of this room, which requires the use of special expensive materials, as well as the high complexity of installation work for plumbing equipment.

When money and effort are running out, wanting to save money, many homeowners are wondering how to install a bath with their own hands. In this article, we will tell you how to properly prepare the bathroom for installation and install the wash basin yourself.

Requirements for the premises

Before you start installing plumbing equipment, you need to carefully prepare the room for work. The correct installation and operation of the bath depends on the quality of the preparatory work. By the time a new wash container is delivered, the bathroom should be in the following condition:

Note! In the process of renovating a bathroom, it is important to follow the correct order of execution. technological operations. Installation is carried out exclusively on a leveled and tiled floor. But wall decoration should be dealt with only after connecting plumbing equipment, so that there is a minimum gap between the wall and the washing container.

Installation methods

Do-it-yourself bath installation is a responsible process of exhibiting on required height and connecting the washing tank to the sewer and plumbing system. Installation can be done different ways, depending on the size, shape and weight of the equipment. Experienced craftsmen recommend using the following methods:

Please note that the right way to install the bath prolongs the life of the product, ensures comfort and safety when using it. In addition, by performing installation, you can improve performance models, reducing the noise and thermal conductivity of the walls with the help of insulating material.

Installation sequence

The process of installing a bathtub consists of several stages: bringing the device into the room, connecting it to sewer system, fixing the legs, setting the bowl at the building level, as well as connecting with plumbing system. The difficulty of the task lies in big weight containers for washing, so installation alone is quite difficult. Install the bath in the following order:

Important! Optimal Height the side of the bath, recommended by SNiP, is 60-65 cm, since the installation of a washing tank at this level causes less injury and inconvenience. And the minimum distance from the floor to the bottom of the bowl, sufficient to connect a siphon with an overflow, is 10-15 cm.

Checking and sealing the joint

Do-it-yourself bath installation ends with checking the functioning of the system. To do this, turn on the water supply, open the taps and observe the operation of the drain. All connections must be tight, and water must quickly enter the drain, leaving the tank on its own. If everything works, then before using the device, it remains only to seal the joint between the bathroom and the wall. This is done as follows:

When installing steel models, you can process the bottom or walls with outside mounting foam or paste over with vibroisol to reduce the resonating ability, thermal conductivity of the material.

Video instruction

Acrylic bathtubs have rather thin walls and require reliable support. Installing an acrylic bathtub is possible in several ways: using the factory frame that comes with the kit, or on bricks. Is there some more combined option- when a frame is used, supporting the bottom in some places with bricks. This method is needed if the bottom turned out to be too thin and “plays” underfoot.

The frame or legs for an acrylic bathtub are sometimes included in the kit, sometimes in an expanded configuration. The difference between the legs and the frame is significant, and not only in price. Legs mounted on slats are attached only to the reinforced bottom, usually with two or four self-tapping screws. At the same time, the sides remain without support (below, photo on the left). The frame, most often, is more massive, made of a thicker profiled pipe ( square section), It has more points supports. Part of the supports comes from the sides of the bath, the other part is attached to the bottom, propping it up (photo on the right).

Options for completing acrylic bathtubs - legs and frame

Regardless of the type of frame, it must be attached to the bottom. To do this, holes are drilled in the bottom in the right places, into which self-tapping screws are then screwed. This moment is not to be feared. This is an acrylic bathtub installation technology. In places of fastening there are reinforcement plates. But, in order not to damage the bathtub, carefully read the instructions before starting installation, it contains the dimensions of the fasteners that can be used.

Installing an acrylic bath on a frame

For each bath, the frame is developed differently, therefore the assembly nuances are different for each case. Even one company different models the same shape, the frames are different. They take into account the geometry of the bath, as well as the distribution of loads. Nevertheless, the order of work is general, as are some technical points.

We twist the frame

A frame is assembled on which the bottom rests. In some cases, it is welded and does not require assembly. The frame is laid on the bottom of the inverted tub until nothing is fixed. It is exposed exactly, as it must be attached.

Fixing the bathtub to the frame

After the frame is level, it is screwed to the reinforced bottom of the acrylic bath. It is necessary to use self-tapping screws of the recommended length, which are included with the frame.

Screen mounting

This is not quite the installation of an acrylic bath, but this stage is rarely dispensed with: we install the screen. If you bought this option, the kit comes with plates that will support it. They are placed along the edges and in the middle. After attaching the screen and adjusting the stops on the legs, fix them in the desired position. Then, on the bath and the screen, the places where the plates need to be fixed are marked, then holes are drilled for the fasteners and the screen is fixed.

The procedure for mounting an acrylic bathtub on legs

Assembling an acrylic bathtub with legs is much easier and faster - the design is elementary. The set includes two planks, four legs with pins, fixing an acrylic bathtub to the wall, a number of nuts and self-tapping screws.

Marking and assembly of the frame

In an acrylic bathtub with legs, the frame is two planks that are attached to the bottom. These bars come with adjustable legs. The task is to screw the planks evenly, install the legs and level the entire structure. Not too difficult.

Find the middle of the mounting strips and the bottom of the bath, put marks. Aligning the marks of the middle, two mounting strips lay a non-inverted bathtub, stepping back a little from the edge of the reinforcing plate (3-4 cm), install the strips. With a pencil or marker, mark the installation locations of the fasteners (there are holes in the planks).

According to the marks, holes are drilled to a depth of about 1 cm (you can stick colored tape on the drill to make it easier to control the depth). The drill diameter is selected 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws (indicated in the instructions or can be measured). After installing the strips and aligning the holes, we fasten them to the self-tapping screws (included).

The next step is to install the legs. They are assembled in the same way as in the previous version: one lock nut is screwed on, the rod is inserted into the hole on the mounted bar, fixed with another nut. An additional nut is needed on the legs on the screen mounting side (pictured).

Next, turn the bath over, put it in horizontal plane twisting the legs. The position is controlled by the building level. Then you need to install a mount on the walls, with the help of which the board is fixed to the walls.

The bath, set in terms of level and height, is put in place, we note where the sides end. We take the mounting plate, apply it to the mark so that its upper edge is 3-4 mm lower, mark the hole for the fasteners. The number of fasteners is different - one or two dowels, as well as the number of fixing plates on the wall (one or two on the wall, depending on the dimensions). Drill holes, insert plastic stoppers from dowels, put clamps, fasten.

Now you can install an acrylic bath - we raise it so that the sides are higher than the plates installed on the wall. We lower, pressing the sides against the wall, they cling to the fixing plates. Installation of an acrylic bathtub on legs is completed. Next - connect the drain and you can use it.

The assembly of such an acrylic bath takes a little time. But the construction is very flimsy. Not every adult feels confident. The bottom bends, the legs slide on the tile. Pleasure is below average.

There is also a combined installation option. This is when put on legs and bricks is shown in the next video. After assembly, two bricks are laid on the mortar, a significant layer of mortar is laid on top (it must be kneaded with low plasticity, adding a minimum of water). When you put the bath in place, part of the solution is squeezed out, it is carefully picked up, the edges of the remaining part are corrected. The bath is loaded (it can be filled with water) and left for several days - so that the solution grabs.

We put on bricks

Installation on bricks requires accuracy and accuracy - it is necessary to set the support evenly so that the sides of the bath are in a horizontal plane.

They usually put on two or three rows of bricks laid on the bed (on the wide part). The number of bricks depends on the placement sewer outlet. A thin layer of mortar is laid between the bricks. The bath is placed on bricks, the horizontalness of the sides is checked, if necessary, corrected by changing the thickness of the solution between the bricks (we do not impose anything on the upper ones yet).

Having exposed, we mark on the wall at what level the sides are. At this mark, a corner is attached that will support the sides of the bath. It is better to take an aluminum corner, the width of the shelf is 3 cm, the thickness is 2-3 mm.

To give the base an aesthetic look, you can wrap them with a plaster mesh, plaster. In fact, plaster also reduces the hygroscopicity of red brick, extending the life of the support. So this step is not to be skipped.

Having bent the paint grid, a solid layer is applied to the tops of the bricks cement-sand mortar. A solid layer of sanitary silicone is applied to the corner, after which a bath is installed. We move it to the wall evenly so that the gaps between the side and the wall are even.

We select the extruded silicone, forming a beautiful seam. You can smooth it out with a teaspoon. If you lead it without tearing your hand from edge to edge, you get an even and smooth seam. Then we remove the extruded solution. We remove the silicone earlier - it "grabs" faster. The solution must be picked up no later than 20-30 minutes after laying, so we also do not tighten it.

If the silicone was not enough and it did not squeeze out, it's not scary. We form a seam by filling the gap with silicone from above. This completes the installation of the acrylic bathtub on the bricks. Next - connecting the siphon and finishing, and this is not entirely relevant to this topic.

Sealing the junction of the bath and the wall

No matter how tightly you put the bathtub against the wall, the gap still remains. FROM acrylic problem complicated by the fact that their sides in the middle bend a little inward. Therefore, simply sealing the gap with silicone will not work. Additional funds are needed.

The easiest way to fix the tape is that it is sold in rolls. One is enough for sealing from three sides. Shelf width 20 mm and 30 mm. The tape is rolled out along the edge of the bath, fixed to the silicone.

There are also various corners for the bath. They are made of plastic, and the edges are rubberized - so that the joint is tighter and the seams between the tiles do not flow. The profiles and shape of the corners are different. There are those that are mounted on top of the tile, there are those that run under it. And they can be of different shapes and colors.

Regardless of the shape, they are installed in the same way: in the corners, the lower parts are cut at an angle of 45 °. The quality of the joint is checked. Then the surface of the wall, side and corner is degreased (preferably with alcohol), silicone is applied, on which the corner is installed. Everything is left for the time required for the polymerization of the sealant (indicated on the tube). After that, you can use the bathroom.

In the case of acrylic bathtubs, there is one caveat: before applying the sealant, they are filled with water, and in this state the composition is left to polymerize. Otherwise, when water is collected and the load on the sides increases, microcracks will appear on it, into which water will flow.

A few words about which sealant is better to use when sealing the junction of the bath and the wall. The best option is a sealant for aquariums. It is no less durable than plumbing, but it has some additives, thanks to which it does not get moldy, does not change color and does not bloom.

The bathroom is an essential attribute of a modern person. Here you can not only cleanse your body of the dirt accumulated during the day, but also relax after work, plunging into your thoughts for a while. That is why it is worth taking very seriously the choice of a bath, as well as its installation, since not only the appearance of the bathroom, but also the morale of the homeowners will depend on these two factors.

Do not forget about savings, since installing such a product is a costly business, and sometimes it is better to do all the work yourself.

The very first step in replacing a bathtub is choosing the type that will be installed. It is from the choice of material from which the product is made that the durability, appearance and practicality of use will depend. Especially if a boiler is installed as a heater. At the moment, the market offers several types of baths, which differ in material:

1. Steel - perfect option for those who want to save as much as possible, but due to their cheapness, it has a number of disadvantages: metal deformation (deflections) under weight, noise when water is collected. This type is quite easy to install, since a man of average build can handle the weight of the product. To reduce the likelihood of deformation and damage to the enamel during operation, you need to choose the bath itself of such dimensions that it contacts and is attached to three walls.

Steel bathtubs have high level heat transfer. In order to fill a bath of a standard volume, you need about 50 liters of water with a temperature of at least 80 degrees. The only plus is that the metal heats up quickly.

2. Cast iron- With proper use and care, it can last for several generations. It is unrealistic to cope with the weight of the product yourself, so several people will have to deal with the installation. If a steel bath can be connected to installed siphon, then a cast-iron product, due to one awkward movement, can break part of the communications. Another disadvantage is the level adjustment of the installed product. If the bathtub is equipped with legs of fixed sizes, you will have to take a lot of trouble with its leveling. Adjustable legs in cast iron baths can also be found, but they are rather flimsy and can break with a certain amount of force.

In order to accept cast iron bath need about 100 liters hot water. The metal heats up for a very long time and quickly gives off heat. From the point of view of economy, one reception will cost one and a half times more than in a steel bath.

3. Acrylic bath- light, easy to install, durable (15-20 years). You will need at least two people to install. The product does not tolerate aggressive detergents and is intended only for bathing (you can forget about a big wash with old ones - with good methods). At a price, such bathtubs are cheaper than cast-iron ones, but they can still hit your pocket great.

The most economical type of bathroom in terms of operation for its intended purpose. The material gives off heat very slowly and warms up quickly, and 50 liters of hot water with a temperature of 40 degrees is enough for one dose.

Acrylic baths in recent times have become very popular, despite the fact that their price sometimes exceeds all possible limits. Such popularity is due to the presence of a large assortment, as well as the simplicity of its installation. Also, the buyer can choose not only a classic rectangular bowl, but also corner options, which expands the possibilities in decorating the interior.

Preparing the bathroom for installation

Wall covering

It is best to install the bathtub directly during the renovation of the room, but before the cladding is done. Since at this moment you can achieve maximum aesthetic and practical qualities, and during the laying of tiles, you can effectively process all the cracks that can let water through and create an ideal environment for the development of mold and bacteria.

If we are only talking about replacing the bath itself, you should make sure that the height of the product is 1.5-2 cm higher than the previous one. That part of the tile with which the old container came into contact did not burn out, and could also accumulate a fair amount of dirt on its surface and wash it out, in most cases it is simply unrealistic.

Floor work

Before installing the bathtub, you need to make sure once again that the floor is perfectly flat and solid, especially when it comes to installing a cast-iron bathtub, which is heavy even when empty. Tile under a heavy bath should be laid using the indentation method, which allows you to get rid of voids under the material. It is because of them that the tile can crack.

To distribute the load that the filled bath will create, you can use wooden logs. Most suitable tree- larch. Logs are pre-treated with antiseptic and antibacterial agents, then impregnated with drying oil or PVA putty.

Such logs will distribute the load and solve the issue of height. By the way, the latter will help solve not only the problem appearance, but it will also allow you to install a siphon with a deeper elbow, which prevents the penetration of sewage waste in the opposite direction. Also, due to the additional rise of the bath, less waste in the form of hair, etc. will accumulate in the siphon.

Drain valve

When choosing a drain fitting, you need to pay attention to the following characteristics:

1. Material. Products made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyisopropylene are on the market. The second option is more durable, but it will also cost more, but a number of advantages fully pays for the product:

• the material is several times harder than PVC, which significantly reduces the likelihood of mechanical damage during the installation of the bath;
• does not lose its strength characteristics over time;
• has a smoother surface, which reduces the likelihood of contamination;
• has a higher rate useful action, since the friction of water on the walls of the pipes is much less.

2. Drain. Most drains on the market come from China and use a bolt during the installation process. Over time, these bolts corrode, rust and oxidize regardless of the material. Even if you separately purchase a stainless steel bolt, as a result of its contact with the grid, a soldering is formed, which will reduce the likelihood of successful disassembly during repairs to zero.

3. Mesh drain. Most economical option- a grid consisting of two crossbars forming a cross. This look is the perfect hair catcher. More practical look, in which round holes are located around the perimeter. The most expensive and reliable type - the holes in the grid are oblique, profiled.

4. Cork chain- it is advisable not to use those products that come with drain nets, but to purchase a separate one. Best Option- the use of a chain designed for fishing, and covered with a layer of paint on top. The latter protects against the negative effects of water.

5. Overflow pipe. While most old tubs use rigid tubing, it is best to use corrugated tubing, which has a larger capacity and diameter. These two indicators reduce the likelihood of water overflowing over the edge.

Bath dimensions - nuances

The dimensions of the bath will directly depend on the size of the room where the product will be located, as well as on those who will use it. Before buying the container itself, it is necessary to carefully measure the place where it will be located, and also take into account the availability of additional equipment, by type washing machines, dryers and boilers. It is worth remembering that bathtubs that are identical in appearance can have a different volume.

The most common sizes for different types baths:

1. Steel: length 150-180 cm, height 65 cm, width 70-85 cm.

2. Cast iron are available in several standardized sizes:

• small-sized: length - 120-130 cm, width 70 cm;
• European standard: length 140-150 cm, width 70 cm;
• large-sized: length 170-180 cm, width 70-85 cm.

3. Acrylic bathtubs are on the market in the most a wide range, from 120 to 190 cm long and 70-170 cm wide.

Small bathtubs are suitable for small spaces, but the process of bathing does not cause any pleasure at all. Also, do not count on a lower cost, since compactness is a need and in order to satisfy it, you need to spend a little money.

If the bathroom is quite spacious, it is worth stopping at a cast-iron or acrylic product. It is the range of the latter that is the most diverse: angular, with decorative trim, rectangular, square, polygonal, etc.

When you do not want to spend money on an acrylic bath, you can purchase a plastic product. They are usually purchased from Chinese manufacturers and do not differ in special quality, and installation requires additional effort and observance of subtleties.

Do-it-yourself bath installation: a step-by-step guide

Installation of all types of baths is carried out in several stages, but special tools and materials may be required in the process.

1. The rule is a flat bar, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the bath. As such a tool, you can use any long and even bar on which the level is placed.
2. Fork wrench - needed for tightening drain mechanisms which are mostly made of plastic.
3. Rubber mallet - can be useful when shrinking the legs of the tub. Usage metal products can choose the deformation of the surface of the product, as well as damage the enamel.

Additional materials: silicone-based sealant and "rag" electrical tape. The latter is needed only when installing an acrylic bath.

Bathtub leveling and sewer connection

The leveling of the bathtub is carried out using a level, and the basic principle is to raise the lowered part, and not vice versa, since the height of the installed product is important to us.

Full connection to the sewer is carried out after complete installation baths, as the siphon can be damaged in the process. When choosing a drain fitting, first of all, you need to pay attention to the width of the outlet pipe. With its sufficient width, you can do without a cuff, and simply fill the gap with silicone or silicone-based sealant. There are two ways to level the bathtub: diagonally and along the sides.

In the first case, you need to put the rule on opposite corners, and set the level from above. After the level shows a satisfactory result, it is necessary to shift the rule to other angles and repeat the twisting of the legs. At the end, repeat the procedure again.

In the second case, the level is placed on the side of the bathroom, the legs of one side are adjusted, then we move on to the other. Alignment along the sides is carried out several times, since the side opposite to the measured one can go astray. The method of leveling along the sides is more laborious, and especially in cases where the floor has a number of irregularities.

We prepare the sewer

First you need to make sure that the pipe sewer pipe and the pipe itself, were completely dry. This will achieve maximum sealing when connected. It is best to turn off the water supply throughout the housing, and if possible, completely stop the water supply at the riser. The main thing is not to forget to warn the neighbors that there will be no water on the span for several hours. Next, make sure that there is no moisture not only from the inside, but also from the outside of the pipe. To do this, you can use a regular cosmetic hair dryer.

After the workplace is prepared, it's time to move on to the actual installation. Let's start with a bathtub made of acrylic.

Installing an acrylic bath

In the kit of each such product there are special guides, on which the legs are subsequently attached. They are installed across the tub tank. The legs are screwed into the lodgements (the correct name of the guides).

The guides themselves are attached to the bathroom using special screws, which can also be found in the kit. So that the self-tapping screws do not damage the integrity of the shell, you need to pre-drill holes for them. It is necessary to use a drill with a limiter, and the depth of the hole should not exceed 3/4 of the length of the self-tapping screw.

After the guides are installed, you need to turn the bath on its side and connect drain valve. Before installing it, all gaskets that will be used must be treated with silicone. Remember that the drain gasket is installed only from the outside! Otherwise, get ready to pay your neighbors to repair the ceiling.

All threaded connections must not be tightly tightened, as there is a possibility of damage to the structure during installation.

During installation, place the bath against all walls, at the same time, make sure that the bath outlet is connected to the sewer pipe. Next, level the bath using a rule (level) and seal the connection to the sewer with a sealant.

While the sealant is curing, use a fork wrench to tighten all screw connections that were in a semi-relaxed state.

When the sealant has completely hardened, check all joints for the possibility of leakage, and if there are none, you can treat the gaps between the bathroom and the walls with the same sealant.

Steel bath installation

A steel bath is installed similarly to an acrylic one. The only difference is in the way the legs are attached. They are fastened with bolts, studs or wedges. Tighten the bolts gradually and alternately. Do not immediately be zealous and twist them to the limit, as in the future there may be a need for additional, fine adjustment.

To make the bathtub make a less loud sound when filling, you can place a piece of automotive rubber between the leg mount and the surface of the bathtub.

The subtleties of installing a cast-iron bath

Recall that cast iron products have simply incredible weight and a bathtub made from this material is no exception. It is desirable to carry out all work on connection and adjustment in the bathroom. Moving the product from room to room is fraught with unforeseen consequences in the form of damage doorways and other interior elements.

Products with decorative legs deserve special attention. This type is selected specifically for the interior and the use of linings as the level is adjusted will nullify the entire aesthetic component. Decorative legs must be filed at the base, but this is a job for the masters of their craft.

For the installation of a drain, unlike the previous types, it is advisable not to turn the cast iron bathtub once again to one side. It will be enough to raise the front part to appear extra space, and fix it in this state with the help of bars.

All work must be carried out very carefully and once again do not pull the bath.

Installing a plastic bath

We did not single out this species in separate category, as plastic tubs are a cheaper substitute acrylic products and the installation process is almost identical. The only difference is the need to create an additional pillow, which will remove the load from the bottom of the product. The pillow can be made both from the same larch and from cement. Plastic bathtubs also require special care and careful operation. Otherwise, the need to replace the product will appear in 5-7 years. These products do not tolerate aggressive detergents.

Bathroom screen

There are a wide variety of screens for the bathroom. Moreover, you can not be limited to buying a finished product, but do everything with your own hands. Perhaps this approach will not be the most correct, but the most economical - for sure.

Installing a bath without the help of specialists is a rather difficult task, which not everyone can do. Here you need to have not only the ability to work with various tools but also to know all the subtleties of the process. You should also be especially careful when working with cast iron products - they are heavy and you can easily damage your limbs during the transfer process.

Video lesson: Installing a bath. Important Points

If you doubt your abilities, invite specialists to help, who will perform all the work according to the standards and your desires. In addition, installation companies or firms are required to provide guarantees for the work performed, as well as for additional materials that were purchased directly through them.