A familiar picture - go to the toilet, and there is water under your feet. And well, if not a few centimeters. Or as an option - to leave the toilet, but the tank does not want to drain the water. Of course, there may be other problems as well. But with all the diversity, the reason for their occurrence is always the same - a malfunction of the toilet drain system.
It will be nice if the restoration of the product's performance results only in replacing the gasket or tightening the loose screw. And if not, and will the entire system need to be replaced as a whole? Sounds menacing. But don't worry.
Knowing the basic designs of drain systems, how they work, having basic skills in repair work, it is quite realistic to replace all the fittings yourself. But the question arises, where to start?
Before starting work, well, you just need to take 5 minutes of time and carefully consider how the drain system of our toilet bowl is arranged. This will save both time and money.
The real owner must know the basic designs of drain tanks
You may not even know how to replace the fittings in the toilet bowl specific model. But all the work can be done the first time, if at least approximately navigate the device of the main types of tanks. In fact, according to the principle of work, everything is the same. The only difference is in the material of manufacture, the water intake system, and the drain control. Consider the main models.
Old-style tank - "sovdepovsky"
It has two modifications: with a rope - pulled, the water ran, and a newer one, what they began to call "compact" - without a pipe, with an upper stem to open the valve.
The first armature was made of metal. Only in the first case, the tank is mounted on a pipe, it has only one bottom hole. In the second - stands on the toilet. It has two pairs of holes at the bottom: one pair for attaching the drain rod, the second for attaching the tank to the toilet, plus an additional hole for the overflow tube.
Cisterns with one or two button flush control
Such fittings have plastic parts, with the main fastening in the center.
They differ from one another only in functionality:
- With one button - the water drains all at once.
- With two buttons - water can be "dosed". One drains the entire volume of water, the other only part of it.
Tank with water supply from below
Modification of previous pushbuttons. Everything, in principle, is the same: fastening, material, principle of operation. Only the branch pipe connected to the water supply is located not on the side, but on the bottom.
We begin work on the dismantling of old fittings
Step by step all preliminary work looks like that:
- We close the tap on the riser, which is responsible for supplying water to the tank. Disconnect the water supply hose.
After the faucet is closed, it is necessary to drain all the water and soak up its remnants with a rag. Sometimes, in a hurry, they forget to do it. They begin to unscrew the fastening screws - and the “flood”.
We disconnect the tank from the drain pipe (old model) or the toilet bowl in new products. In the first case, unscrew the large metal nut located on the pipe. In the second - two nuts located below, under the toilet bowl platform. In older modifications, there are difficulties with dismantling - the iron mount rusts and is poorly unscrewed. There was a problem - we cut off the nuts. This can be done with a hacksaw blade or a file.
- We shoot;
- We lay the removed tank on a wide stable surface;
- We first dismantle the float and the water pipe with a valve;
- We remove the main drain system.
When removing the drain mechanism, this applies more to older structures, you should be careful. metal tool, unsuccessfully used, will damage the surface plumbing equipment.
After removing the old fittings, wash the tank, wipe it dry. We make an audit for damage in the form of chips on the holes or possible cracks that appear on the surface of the sanitary ware.
Putting the new valve in place
It was said above that older models of drain systems have more holes for attaching fittings. It does not matter if new fittings, similar in design, are installed in place of worn fittings. But often, in order to complete our old plumbing with a more reliable new “stuffing”, there is nothing left for us but to replace the toilet cistern fittings that have become unusable with modern fittings. In particular, we will devote a few lines to this in the general assembly process.
Let's start:
- In older models, we attach a bracket with a rod and a pear to the bottom of the tank metal mount. In the new ones, the drain system is fixed in the center with one plastic nut.
- Let's be careful! We work with plastic fasteners gently. Excessive tightening force may damage one of the fasteners.
- Install a water supply pipe. In older systems, we will then attach a spoke with a float to it. In new ones, the nozzle can be combined with a water level control system. That is, the float and the intake pipe are combined into one design. We install everything together.
- Next is the tank with the collected drain system needs to be installed on the toilet.
- In older models, between the cistern and the toilet, we use a large elongated rubber shock absorber. It "captures" two holes: a drain, and a hole for overflowing water. If the "sovdepovsky" compact is installed modern system drain, we close the additional hole for the water overflow tube with a plug.
- The compact of today is equipped with a shock absorber gasket in the form of a ring.
- We put a tank on the gasket installed on top of the toilet bowl. We press it to the toilet with two fixing bolts and nuts.
When buying fittings, you need to focus on original products, from a “branded” manufacturer. It will last longer, there will be fewer problems during operation.
The assembled drain system needs to be adjusted
For this:
- we adjust the position of the float so that the distance from the surface of the water to the top of the tank, with the tank filled and the valve in the water supply pipe closed, is within 4-5 centimeters. Or the water was below the edge of the opening of the water supply pipe by 1-2 centimeters;
- the top of the overflow pipe should be approximately 2 centimeters above the water level.
All. We close the lid, we can use.
Performing some actions with equipment and mechanisms in terms of repair is a pleasant experience for most of our men. Therefore, the failure of the same drain fittings toilet cistern for many does not seem like a tragic event. Let's try to understand this issue by applying the diagram in the photo, as well as video instructions.
Device
Let's start with the basics - compact toilet devices. In this design, the tank is placed on the shelf of the bowl. This format is easy to maintain and inexpensive. The design includes the following elements:
- Cistern. Water can be supplied to it either from below or from the side. In the case of a toilet with a side water supply, there are two holes, water is supplied through one, while the other is closed with a plug. There is a drain button on the top. Usually the volume of a standard tank is up to 10 liters.
- Drain system. In another way, it is called a drain valve or a release mechanism, consisting of a release lever and a drain siphon. When the button is pressed, the drain hole opens. When the tank is empty, the hole closes. The release lever is most often controlled by a button.
- Bay system - shutoff valves. When the tank is empty, water fills it up to a certain volume. The check valve can be piston or diaphragm. The system includes a shut-off and a float element. When the water level changes, the float goes up and down. The lever that is attached to it closes the valve, the water supply stops. When the water drains, the float drops, the lever unlocks the valve.
- Bowl. sewer outlet may be oblique or straight. Fastening the tank to the shelf of the bowl is carried out bolted connection with rubber seal.
Replacement
Start with preparation necessary tools and materials. It should be noted that the repair of drain fittings most often comes down to replacing a rubber bulb that closes the drain hole. If replacement of all fittings is required, more time will be required.
To perform the operation you will need:
- a new set of fittings;
- wrenches and wrenches;
- roulette.
For installation, you will have to perform three main steps: mounting the tank on the toilet shelf, connecting to the water supply, adjusting the fittings.
First, a gasket is installed on the shelf. As a rule, it has a self-adhesive base so that the gasket fits well. The tank is fixed special fastening in the form of bolts with gaskets so as not to damage the coating. They are made in the shape of a cone to prevent possible leakage. It is impossible to tighten the bolts strongly so as not to break one of the ceramic products. As a result, the first task is solved - the tank is installed.
Next we connect the water supply. To do this, we draw a conclusion from the pipe with cold water, we connect the valve so that, if necessary, you can turn off the water supply. Next, we connect a hose that will supply water to the tank. When connecting the hose to the outlet of the toilet, use a rubber gasket to avoid leaks.
Installation of drain fittings
The assembly is carried out according to the scheme, most often supplied with the drain fitting itself. You can also see the universal scheme in the photo. The procedure is performed before installing the tank.
Place a gasket on the drain mechanism, insert fittings by tightening the plastic nut. Put gaskets on the mounting bolts, insert them into the holes, then tighten the washer.
At the end, it remains to lay the cover, add a button.
Adjustment
It should be noted that we considered the standard situation, when the settings of the drain fittings from the manufacturer match the required ones. However, there are cases when it is still necessary to adjust the position of the drain valve.
The procedure will not create difficulties. To do this, you must perform the following steps:
- disconnect the rod from the overflow pipe;
- we squeeze the glass mount;
- rearrange the stand.
You can adjust the water level like this:
- you need to change the position of the glass, for which you can use the guide: you should leave a distance of at least 4.5 cm from the top level of the glass to the edge of the tank;
- the overflow pipe must be placed below the location of the rack by 7 cm, but above the maximum water level by 2 cm.
To adjust a small flush, adjust its float according to the level, taking into account the location of the overflow tube. The maximum flush is regulated by the position of the damper in relation to the glass. In both cases, the position is changed by moving up or down. In this case, changing the position down will lead to an increase in water consumption.
Build Quality Check
Without this it is impossible to guarantee smooth operation toilet bowl, so control of the result should be. To do this, drain the water when the tank is assembled. Do not forget to open the valve that was installed before connecting to the hose. We wait for the filling of the tank with water and again lower the flow. We check the joints of the parts for leaks. After filling the tank, water should not flow into the bowl. If something goes wrong, you should either reconfigure the drain fittings, or reassemble the structure in a new way.
After quality control of the assembly, you can proceed to the full operation of the product.
Today we have small master class for installing fittings in the tank and for installing the tank itself on the toilet. The toilet itself has already been installed, there is nothing complicated here, but with the tank, many have problems with the fittings that are installed in it.
I want to make a reservation right away that this information is not for professionals, there is nothing for professionals to learn here.
Scope of delivery overview
Let's now see what we have here.
These are the mounting bolts.
Drain valve with control fittings.
Sealing ring. A small one is placed under the valve, and a large one under the tank itself - now I will show you everything.
And finally, the button.
Let's take a look at this valve first.
What does it have? The nut is tightened, then there is a rubber lining - it remains with us on the valve. Here we just turn the rod, and we have a float walking along this rod, and thus we regulate the filling of the tank. I usually put somewhere in the middle.
Now we look at the tank itself. We have four holes here.
The smallest holes are for the bolts that secure the tank, big hole under the main drain valve, the middle hole in the corner is for the installation of a float valve.
Tank assembly
We insert the float valve with a thread into this hole and tighten the nut on the reverse side.
Valve installed. We look so that it does not block us small hole. We try that it normally rises and falls, without touching the edges of the tank. Also, then it will be possible to lower the drain valve and make sure that they do not interfere with each other in the tank.
We take adjustable or regular wrench and tighten the nut. Don’t pull too hard, you don’t need much force here - the nut may burst or the thread may break, and then you will have to buy this valve separately.
We have a valve, now we install drain fittings. We take a small ring and set it in this place.
Now we get the bolts that secure the tank itself. We need to properly assemble these bolts. Install the plastic washer first.
There are also metal washers, there are brass ones. Next, we put on such a conical elastic band with the base down.
We have one bolt. Now we assemble the second one in the same sequence. We install the washer, install the rubber cone. For convenience, you can remove the drain valve - just remove it from the latch, the lower part then remains, and the upper part is removed so that it is convenient for you to put the bolt.
Now we will need to tighten them with nuts. To do this, we install a plastic washer and tighten the nut. Now we take a screwdriver, a 10 wrench and tighten our nuts. A screwdriver is needed in order to fix the bolt.
Installing a cistern on a toilet
We take our large gasket, install it in this place.
Install the tank on top. We still have these plastic nuts.
From the bottom of the tank we twist them. Do not try to twist with something other than your hands - everything must be fixed there by hand, otherwise the tank or the platform on which it is installed may burst. Then we take and snap the drain valve.
We install the cover.
That's all, our button is installed. Now connect the hose to the tank. The hose does not need to be pulled too hard. They opened the tap, looked, if it drips, you can still pull it up.
When the tank is full, visually check the space below for leaks. You can take a tissue or toilet paper, wipe the bottom of the tank. If there are any smudges, the paper will show. Let's flush and make sure there are no leaks.
That's all, the installation of the tank is completed.
All rights to the video belong to: Master in the House62TV
Installing fittings in the drain tank allows you to extend the life of plumbing equipment for a couple of years. One of the most common reasons for calling a plumber is the trouble of filling the drain tank. This is due to the rapid failure of the details of the drain mechanism, or fittings, due to good quality water.
The composition of the cistern
The functioning of the toilet bowl depends on the filling and the “quality” of the cistern. Its breakdown significantly complicates the life of any family. Based on this, the choice of the mechanism and the toilet drain must be taken as responsibly as possible.
Each drain tank includes the following details:
- Actually a tank in which there will be water.
- Fittings that regulate the filling of the tank.
- Water drain mechanism.
- Button for draining water.
The most common circumstances for the termination of the functioning of the cistern mechanism are:
- Drain button failure.
- Breakage of the valve that regulates the filling of the tank.
- Failure of the "rocker", specifically responsible for draining water into the toilet.
All these troubles can be solved independently, without resorting to the help of a plumber. A good preventive measure for any breakdowns can be the installation of toilet drain fittings. It will ensure uninterrupted operation in arbitrary conditions on long term.
Fittings for drain tank
Shut-off valves now there is the most effective means prevention of the most common drain problems.
The cistern mechanism is a complex of the following details:
- Drain mechanism with an angular slope (in some models it is located below).
- An overflow tube located a little on the side.
- Tank filling mechanism new portion water.
- A mechanism that includes a drain function.
Advice! The correct and uninterrupted functioning of the cistern is highly dependent on how to set up the toilet fittings. This is done immediately after installing the plumbing product in the bathroom. Or, if it was not done immediately during installation - during the next repair.
Reinforcement installation
The fittings will prevent the flow of water from the drain tank and will regulate the flush - either full or partial.
Structurally, the mechanisms for draining water can vary significantly depending on the manufacturer. Based on this, when purchasing fittings, you need to scrupulously inspect the mechanism. This will help:
- understand how it works;
- find out its weakest place - in case, in the future, replacement of the drain tank fittings is required;
- recognize the shortcomings of the details, which will be able to disable the entire drain mechanism in the near future.
Advice! The fittings of the drain tank look like a complex mechanism, and at the same time it is quite possible to install it yourself without resorting to the services of a plumber.
If the fittings are installed before installing the toilet, this requires:
- Place a rubber gasket on top of the drain mechanism.
- Install the fittings of the drain tank into the tank and carefully, but without overtightening, attach it with the nut that comes in the kit, mostly plastic.
- Mounting bolts must be equipped rubber gaskets and use them to attach the mechanism.
At the end of the installation of the fittings, the tank must be installed on the toilet, water must be brought to the drain tank and a test drain must be performed.
Adjusting the height of the reinforcement is carried out as follows:
- First you need to disconnect the rod placed on the overflow pipe.
- Release the lock of the drain mechanism so that the "glass" of the fittings has the opportunity to freely move vertically.
- Carefully adjust the position of the fittings of the drain tank to the desired level. To the upper level of the tank (without a lid) should not be more than 4–5 cm.
- Fix its condition and bring the rod back so that the overflow pipe is at least 1–2 cm above the water.
- If the drain mechanism has the function of draining half of the tank, then it will also need to be adjusted using the small flush float.
Replacement
In some cases, the already installed drain mechanism fails. Quite often, troubles appear due to the deformation of some low-quality fittings, especially if it was installed inexpensive option. In addition, water has a huge influence: its excessive rigidity can have a very bad effect on the condition of the reinforcement. In addition, foreign mechanisms do not help out. They are designed for a different composition of water and quite often break down from excess impurities in the incoming water.
Advice! To replace the fittings of the drain tank, it is necessary to turn off the water supply to the drain tank, remove the cover and carefully inspect the mechanism itself. In many cases, a breakdown can be repaired by replacing one part.
What does the malfunction of the drain mechanism look like:
- Constant flow of water into the toilet.
- Constant flow of water into the tank.
The first case is due to the transformation of the position of the float that regulates the water level. To eliminate the trouble, you need to adjust the position of the float. If the manipulations done did not help, it is necessary to change the float - it may be fully possible that it has a drawback, which allows it to pass water and transmit incorrect information about the water level to the drain mechanism.
The second case shows that the membrane in the siphon of the drain mechanism has failed. Need to replace it with new detail.
But if the drain mechanism has been installed for a long time, all its details have worn out so that installing new ones will not help. So, it is necessary to change the drain mechanism completely.
When purchasing a new fitting for a drain tank, you need to make sure that all its details do not have any damage, the mechanism is working properly. It is possible to buy another set as insurance.
Video
We offer you to watch a video about replacing the fittings in the toilet bowl:
Constantly bubbling water in the tank and, as a result, the money that is paid for water supply flowing down the drain is a typical picture of a broken toilet. To solve this problem, you need to change the armature for flush tank. How to do this and how to choose the right one will be described in this article.
Everyone knows the sound of running water in the toilet. This sound indicates that it is time to repair the toilet. At first glance, the problem is very serious and insoluble without the appropriate knowledge and skills. However, this is only at first glance. In fact, toilet repair is most often the repair or replacement of broken cistern fittings. This procedure is simple and will not take you much time.
How is a flush tank arranged? In fact, it has two devices independent of each other - a filling valve (through which water enters the tank) and a drain column (it ensures the flow of water from the tank into the toilet bowl and, accordingly, flushing). The combination of these two devices forms the fittings for the toilet flush tank. Various manufacturers offer their models with some unique designs, different forms and colours. Despite such a variety, it is important to understand that almost all of them are universal (the probability that a universal fitting purchased in a store will suit you is about 95%). That is, knowing the type of yours, you can easily buy the fittings you need in any plumbing store. Within the framework of this article, fittings for built-in tanks are absolutely not considered. The fact is that they just do not fall into the above 95% of universal options.
And so, it remains only to find out what types of fittings are and how you can independently determine which one is needed in your case.
Types of cistern fittings
Since the reinforcement, as mentioned above, consists of two independent devices, the classification can be carried out according to:
- fill valve type:
- with lateral supply - the valve is mounted on the side wall of the tank. Accordingly, the jellied eyeliner ( flexible hose from water pipe to the tank) fits from the side;
- with a bottom supply - the valve is mounted on the bottom wall of the tank. The liner in this case is connected from below.
- Drain column type:
- with a button - to flush, you must press the button on the tank lid;
- with a stem - for flushing, the stem with decorative element at the end.
It should be noted that push-button columns, in turn, are also divided into two subspecies:
- With a single flush - one button. When pressed, all the water contained in the tank is drained.
- With a double flush - for such a column, the button is divided into two parts. Pressing one performs a flush using only half of the water contained in the tank, the other causes a full flush.
Fittings for a double flush cistern are considered more economical - you can choose the desired mode yourself. Columns with single and double flush are interchangeable, that is, nothing prevents you from buying and installing the one that suits you best, but it should be noted that the tanks have different displacements. With a small volume, a half flush may not be enough.
Under the push-button fittings in the lid of the tank, a hole was made larger diameter than under the stock. Therefore, in most cases, replacing a column of one type with a column of another will not work.
So, taking into account all the above, we get six types of fittings: with a stem with a side supply, with a rod with a bottom supply, with a single button with a side supply, with a single button with a bottom supply, with a double button with a side supply and a double button with a bottom supply .
Separately, it is worth dwelling on the fittings of the old model. Now there are still a lot of cisterns installed on the toilet with such fittings, or cisterns mounted on the wall and connected to the toilet with a pipe, in which old-style fittings are also mounted. It consists of a column with a stem (vertical or lateral) and a side filling valve. By virtue of design features and more soft requirements to profitability, the drain column from such fittings cannot be replaced with a modern one. It remains either to repair and adjust the fittings for the tank so that it does not let water through, and this is very difficult to achieve, or simply buy a toilet bowl with a modern tank, which is more preferable, especially if you have a water meter installed.
Summing up, we illustrate all types of fittings:
Fill valves. From left to right: bottom inlet, side inlet, old style
Drain columns. From left to right: push-button, with stem, old-style
How to choose fittings for a tank
Now let's move from theory to practice. When it comes to buying a new cistern fitting, it's natural to want to save some money. It often leads to some characteristic errors:
- Despite the fact that the fittings are universal, their designs from different manufacturers can differ greatly. Therefore, it is wrong to try to look for only one broken spare part. Most likely, you will not succeed, and you will only waste your time. Conclusion - buy only the whole. In extreme cases, bring the entire fitting element (column or valve) with you to the store. There is a small chance that such a spare part can be found, for example, from defective fittings.
- It is wrong to look for fittings for your particular tank, that is, exactly the same as it was. This is where it is important to remember that they are universal, which means that knowing the type of yours, with a high probability, any universal desired type will suit you.
Here the question arises, how to determine the type of your fittings?
To determine the type of inlet valve, just look at your tank, namely, where the flexible water supply hose is connected to it. If on the side, then you have a valve with a side supply. If there is no hose on the side, then the valve is with a lower supply. Look under the tank and see for yourself.
To determine the type of waste column, pay attention to what action is performed when flushing. If you press the button, then the push-button, if you pull the stem, then the column with the stem.
Determine the type of your fittings and choose the appropriate name for you (one of the above) - it is you who will need to tell the seller when buying.
Most likely, in the store you will be offered a choice of several options from different manufacturers and, accordingly, with different prices. What to choose?
The price range is quite wide - from 150 rubles. up to several thousand. To choose a quality one and at the same time not overpay, you should pay attention to a few nuances:
- All connections of parts with each other must be strong. Detachable, as a rule, snap-on, should fit tightly into each other with a characteristic click. One-piece should not have backlash.
- Sealing gaskets must be of good quality. Feel them. Soft, plastic and at the same time elastic, they speak about the quality of both the gaskets themselves and, accordingly, the fittings in general.
- Complete set - fittings of acceptable quality come with all the parts necessary for installation, including bolts that fasten the tank to the toilet. In some cases, valves are completed with spare parts (usually gaskets). Pay attention to the quality of small things. Unscrupulous manufacturers do not pay due attention to it. As a result - low quality accessories. This should alert you.
Generally speaking, you need to know that the price of acceptable quality rod valves starts from 10 USD. e., for push-buttons - from 15 c.u. e. At a price of 30 at. That is, you can buy very good fittings with an increased resource (as a rule, this is reflected in the extended warranty period).
So, the armature is bought, it remains to mount it.
Rebar replacement
Replacement of fittings begins with the dismantling of the old one. In some cases, there is no need to completely change the fittings. It is enough, for example, to change only the drain column or the filling valve. If you change the column, you will have to completely remove the tank. Replacing the filling valve will not require this. In any case, you must first dismantle the old elements. Let's look at this process in in full stage by stage specific example. As an experimental sample, let's take this toilet:
It can be seen that it has a one-button armature with a lower supply. The procedure for replacing any other, including a rod one, for example, with a lateral supply, will not differ much from that described. Differences in operations will be indicated.
All work begins with shutting off the water at the inlet to the tank or the entire water supply line. After that, it is necessary to flush the water in the tank into the toilet.
1. Dismantle the button. In our case, it turns counterclockwise. It happens that the button is attached to the lid of the tank. The cover will then be removed without dismantling it. Then just go to the second step. For rod fittings - unscrew the decorative knob on the rod and unscrew the trim that closes the hole in the tank through which the rod passes (of course, if it was screwed).
2. Remove the cover and see this picture. In the center is a drain column. Side filler valve. If the length of the supply hose is sufficient to remove the tank and put it on top of the toilet, then proceed to the next step. Otherwise, turn off the eyeliner.
3. The drain column is collapsible - it consists of two parts. To make it easier to carry out work, we dismantle upper part. To do this, rotate it by 90 ° (it will detach from the bottom with a snap off):
and take out:
The lower part of the column will remain inside. On the sides of it are visible bolt heads that secure the tank to the toilet.
4. Unscrew the fixing nuts under the tank. As a rule, this can be done simply by hand.
After draining, a small amount of water will remain. When you unscrew the nuts, this water will flow out. So put on a rag.
5. Nothing prevents now to lift the tank up and put it on the toilet for the convenience of subsequent work.
The sealing gasket remained at the landing site:
6. The dismantling of the tank in our case could be done without first disconnecting the liner. If it is necessary to change the filling valve, then we perform this operation now.
Flexible hoses are wrapped and turned away by hand. The key is used only when absolutely necessary.
7. Unscrew the column fastening nut:
and valve nut:
8. We take everything out of the tank. Here, in fact, this is the dismantled fittings:
Now you can start installing the new fittings. All operations are carried out in reverse order, the only caveat - for convenience, it makes sense to put the gasket between the tank and the toilet on the mounting nut before installation.
The whole operation takes five to ten minutes. Threaded connections, as mentioned, are wrapped by hand and only if necessary are tightened with a wrench.
You can endlessly try to fix old leaking fittings, surprised every month by huge bills for consumed water, or you can spend 10 minutes and solve the problem for a long time by simply replacing the fittings completely. How to do it, you now know.
