The principle of operation of the toilet bowl with a button. Flushing tank for the toilet: device, installation, adjustment, repair. Toilet cistern systems

The statistics are merciless: every Russian family has encountered breakdowns of the toilet cistern at least once. At the same time, in most cases, you can repair or eliminate the leak with your own hands in a couple of minutes. This article will help you understand the device of this most important element in the house.

The toilet bowl is a plumbing device that not a single city apartment (and most country houses) can do without. It is used constantly, and therefore any malfunction, and even more so a breakdown, causes serious inconvenience. In most cases, you can set up and repair a toilet tank without the help of a specialist. You just need to understand how it works, what the individual elements in the drain tank are responsible for - and then it immediately becomes clear what is the cause of possible problems.

Roughly speaking, the toilet bowl consists of two parts - a bowl with a sewer hole and a tank for draining water. It is in the cistern that the entire toilet mechanism is located, all the elements that drive it. By pressing a button or operating a lever, we make a simple mechanical system inside the tank work. As a result, water enters the bowl, and all waste is washed down the drain.

Toilets come in different sizes and types of drains. In some models, when you press a lever or button, the tank is completely emptied, splashing all the water down. In other tanks, there are two buttons: depending on the needs, you can drain more or less water. There are low-lying cisterns that are attached directly to the toilet, others are hung on the wall and connected to the bowl with a flush pipe, and others are mounted in the wall (this saves space in the restroom).

The drain system can also vary: some toilets supply water in a constant direction, in others, when draining, the water changes its direction. The second option is considered more convenient and hygienic, although there is more noise from such a device.

Nevertheless, the internal arrangement of tanks of any type is approximately the same. And, having understood the principles of operation of one, if necessary, you can inspect and repair any other toilet tank.

The internal device of the drain tank consists of several elements:

flush button;
filling valve with float;
drain fittings for the toilet bowl.

When you press the button in the drain tank, the valve opens, and the water is emptied into the bowl, flushing the contents of the toilet. At the same time, the liquid level in the tank becomes lower - and the float reacts to this, falling down along with the water. Reacting to the "indications" of the float, the filling system is activated - and the water is again poured into the tank to the desired level.

The toilet cistern leaks quite often, this is mainly due to poor-quality fittings (insides), cracked seals and other minor troubles.

Water level in the tank: how to adjust?

One of the most common cistern problems is the constant flow of water into the toilet. This means that the water level is too high - the system has to constantly release excess liquid. It also happens the other way around: the drain is inconvenient to use, because there is too little water in the tank all the time.

As a rule, the problem lies in the float - perhaps it is simply skewed. In this case, the problem is solved quickly and easily - the float needs to be corrected.

The float in the drain tank is, as a rule, of two varieties: on a brass lever and on a plastic lever with a special screw. To adjust the float on the brass lever, you just need to gently raise and lower it several times until it becomes clear in which position the mechanism will work optimally. Raising the float raises the water level, lowering it lowers it.

As for the plastic lever, here the level is adjusted by turning the screw (or with a plastic ratchet, with which the lever is set to the correct position).

Repair of a drain tank: main breakdowns and their elimination

However, the malfunction of the drain system does not always depend on the position of the float. Sometimes you have to understand the problem in more detail - but you can still carry out the simplest repair of the internal mechanism of the tank with your own hands.

There are the most common problems in the drain system:

the tank leaks at the junction with the toilet bowl (does not hold water and is constantly filled);
water is constantly flowing into the toilet from the tank.

As a rule, the causes of the problem are the following:

float failure;
breakage of the shut-off valve;
poor sealing of pipes.

The toilet tank is leaking: what to do?

If water oozes into the toilet bowl from the tank all the time, first you need to make sure that the problem cannot be solved by simply adjusting the float.

If you tried to move and adjust the lever, it still does not hold water on the tank, then you need to inspect the float itself: it is likely that a hole has formed in it or a special membrane has become unusable.

The easiest thing to do when you find a hole in a float is to simply cover it up with a plastic "patch" or wrap the float in a bag. Water will stop getting inside, and the problem will be exhausted for some time. However, at the first opportunity, it is better to replace the float - such a handicraft repair is unlikely to last long.

How to change the float?

first of all, it is necessary to shut off the water entering the toilet tank, and then completely empty the tank;
after that, the pipe is removed through which water entered the tank, and the damaged float is removed, and a new one is put in its place;
the float is installed in the desired position, after which you can put the pipe in place, start the water supply again and make sure that the problem is solved.

Stop valve repair

There are two ways to fix the breakdown of the locking device (toilet fittings) in the tank: replace only the membrane inside the mechanism or change the valve completely.

To change the membrane from the tank, it is also necessary to remove all the water from the tank, disassemble the shut-off valve, remove the protective cap and pull out the membrane itself. Theoretically, it can be simply washed. However, experts recommend replacement, since the membrane is generally the “weak point” of the drain system, and others will surely follow the first malfunction.

If the shut-off valve needs to be replaced in its entirety, then the water supply to the toilet tank is also shut off to begin with. After that, the liquid remaining in it is poured out of the tank, the lever is first disconnected from the mechanism, and then the valve itself is unscrewed from the water pipe, fixed with fixing nuts.

In its place, a new fitting for the tank is mounted, after which the water is turned on, the toilet tank is refilled and the float is set in the correct position.

The cistern is leaking at the junction with the toilet

If water oozes from the place where the tank connects to the toilet bowl, then most likely it is a poor seal. As a rule, in this case, it is enough to tighten the bolts more tightly, with which the tank is attached to the toilet, or change the rubber gaskets - they may have dried out.

It happens that the gasket in the place where the tank is attached to the toilet comes across with a manufacturing defect. This is not very good news - however, you can simply smear it with a sealing compound, and the leak will be eliminated.

Condensation on the toilet bowl causes many problems - but you can get rid of it only by properly organizing the movement of air in the toilet, i.e. check ventilation holes.

Summing up, we can say that the toilet tank is a simple device that works according to the simplest laws of mechanics. All malfunctions that occur in its operation are eliminated quickly and easily, and it is not even always necessary to buy new parts. Thus, having understood the work of your drain tank, you can no longer spend money and time on plumbers, solving all the problems yourself.

No matter how high-quality the toilet bowl and fittings are, problems arise from time to time: either water is not collected, or vice versa, it constantly flows from the drain. All these problems are associated with fittings (drain and inlet valves), which are placed in the drain tank. Next, we’ll talk about how to install it, change, adjust and repair it yourself, with your own hands.

Internal organization

The toilet cistern consists of two simple systems: a set of water and its discharge. To troubleshoot possible problems, you need to understand how everything works and works. First, consider what parts the old-style toilet bowl consists of. Their system is more understandable and visual, and the operation of more modern devices will be clear by analogy.

The internal fittings of a tank of this type are very simple. The water supply system is an inlet valve with a float mechanism. The drain system is a lever and a pear with a drain valve inside. There is also an overflow pipe - through it excess water leaves the tank, bypassing the drain hole.

The main thing in this design is the correct operation of the water supply system. A more detailed diagram of its device is in the figure below. The inlet valve is connected to the float using a curved lever. This lever presses on the piston, which opens / closes the water supply.

When filling the tank, the float is in the lower position. Its lever does not put pressure on the piston and it is squeezed out by water pressure, opening the outlet to the pipe. Water is gradually drawn in. As the water level rises, the float rises. Gradually, he presses the piston, blocking the water supply.

The system is simple and effective, the filling level of the tank can be changed by slightly bending the lever. The disadvantage of this system is a noticeable noise when filling.

Now let's look at how the drain of water in the tank works. In the variant shown in the figure above, the drain hole is blocked by a bleed valve pear. A chain is attached to the pear, which is connected to the drain lever. We press the lever, lift the pear, the water drains into the hole. When the level drops, the float goes down, opening the water supply. This is how this type of cistern works.

Modern models with lever drain

They make less noise when filling the cistern for toilet bowls with a lower water supply. This is a more modern version of the device described above. Here the tap / inlet valve is hidden inside the tank - in a tube (in the photo - a gray tube to which the float is connected).

Drain tank with water supply from below

The mechanism of operation is the same - the float is lowered - the valve is open, water flows. The tank was filled, the float rose, the valve turned off the water. The drain system remained almost unchanged in this version. The same valve that rises when you press the lever. The water overflow system has not changed much either. This is also a tube, but it is brought out into the same drain.

You can clearly see the operation of the drain tank of such a system in the video.

With button

Models of toilet bowls with a button have similar water inlet fittings (there are with a side water supply, there are with a bottom one). Their drain fittings are of a different type.

The system shown in the photo is most often found in toilet bowls of domestic production. It is inexpensive and reliable. The device of imported units is different. They basically have a bottom water supply and another drain-overflow device (pictured below).

There are different types of systems:

with one button
- water drains as long as the button is pressed;
- draining starts when pressed, stops when pressed again;
with two buttons that release different amounts of water.

The mechanism of work here is slightly different, although the principle remains the same. In this fitting, when you press the button, a glass rises, blocking the drain. The stand remains stationary. In short, this is the difference. The drain is adjusted using a swivel nut or a special lever.

Installation and replacement of cistern fittings

A significant part of toilet problems are solved by adjusting or replacing the cistern fittings. In any case, you need to know how to disassemble and assemble the inside of the tank. This skill will definitely help you. When replacing, you must first dismantle the old device, and then install a new one. We will describe in detail the whole process, including the installation of new fittings.

How to remove the lid from the tank

If a drain tank with a button is being repaired, it is not always immediately clear how to remove the lid. This is easy to do: press the button, turn the ring.

If it doesn’t work with your fingers, pressing the button, consider its inner rim. There are two special slots. You can take a screwdriver with a narrow end, turn the ring a little with it. Then you can already twist it with your fingers.

After that, remove the button by pulling it up. Everything, the lid can be lifted.

Tank dismantling

To replace the old fittings of the flush tank, it must be removed from the toilet bowl. First of all, turn off the water supply, then drain the water from the tank. Then, using the keys, remove the water supply hose (it is attached to the side or bottom).

Next, you need to disconnect the tank from the toilet bowl. If you look under it from below, you can see the bolts that are tightened with nuts. So we unscrew them using a set of open-end wrenches or an adjustable wrench. Before that, place a container near the toilet or lay a rag - a certain amount of water always remains in the tank, when the nuts are unscrewed, it will drain.

Having unscrewed two nuts - on the right and on the left, we remove the tank. There is usually a gasket on the bowl. If it is deformed or dried out, it is also desirable to replace it.

The tank is placed on a flat surface. There is a large plastic nut at the bottom of it. It holds the drain mechanism, we unscrew it. Sometimes the first turns have to be done with an adjustable wrench, but do not overtighten it - the plastic can be brittle.

Now the water drain mechanism can be easily removed.

We remove the water supply mechanism in the same way. With bottom feed, the fastening nut is also at the bottom (right or left of center).

After that, we look inside the drain tank. Usually, rusty sediment, small metal particles, sand, etc. accumulate at the bottom. All this must be removed, if possible, washed. The inside must be clean - trash that has fallen under the gaskets can cause a leak. After that, we begin the installation of new fittings.

Installation of drain tank fittings

Everything happens in reverse order. First, we install a new rack of the drain mechanism. We unscrew the plastic nut from it, put a rubber gasket on the pipe. It can be white (as pictured) or black.

We start the device inside the container, from the outside we wind the plastic nut. We twist it, as long as possible, with our fingers, then tighten it a little with a key. You can not overtighten - it will burst.

Sealing

Now on the toilet bowl we replace the o-ring sealing its connection with the drain tank. Dirt and rust often accumulate in this place - we wipe it first, the seat must be dry and clean.

Inside the tank we install the fixing bolts, not forgetting to put the gaskets. We put the drain tank in place until it can be leveled. The main thing is to get the screws and the outlet part into the seats. We take a washer, a nut and screw them onto the screws.

When both nuts are installed, but not yet tightened, we level the container. Then, using the key, we begin to tighten the mount. We twist a few turns, then to the right, then to the left.

Installing the exhaust valve

Lastly, install the inlet valve for the drain tank. It could have been installed earlier, but then it is inconvenient to install the mounting bolts - there is too little space. We also put a gasket on the outlet pipe, then install it inside, fix it with a nut.

The next step is to connect water to the same pipe. Before connecting the flexible hose for water, we open the water for a while, making it possible to remove the scale that accumulates every time after closing the tap, even for a short time. Having lowered a certain amount of water (substitute a bucket so as not to wet the floor), we connect the hose to the fitting (we turn off the water again).

Although the fitting is metal, it is also not necessary to tighten this connection strongly - first with your fingers, then one turn with a key. If drops are found when the water is turned on, you can tighten it another half turn. After that, we check if the system works correctly. If everything is correct, install the cover, fasten the button. You can test again. This completes the installation of the fittings of the drain tank. As you can see, everything can be done by hand.

Adjustment and repair

During the operation of the toilet, problems periodically arise - either it flows, or, on the contrary, no water is drawn into it. Sometimes, tired of the inconvenience, people buy new toilets. But in vain. Most of the faults are fixed in 10-20 minutes. Moreover, everything is so simple that everyone can handle it. You don't have to call a plumber. You can do everything with your own hands.

Water level adjustment

We are talking about devices with a lower water supply. After installation, the toilet cistern must be adjusted. By default, they come from the factory set to the maximum amount of water in the tank. This amount is often excessive. With a simple adjustment, we can reduce the volume of water in the tank. For this:

The same procedure is necessary if water constantly leaks from the tank. One reason is that the float is too high. Because of this, water flows through the overflow system.

With a side water supply and a float mechanism, the adjustment is even easier - we change the position of the float by bending its lever. On the one hand, it is easier, but on the other hand, it is more difficult. You have to bend it many times to achieve the required level.

Toilet cistern leaking

If the water in the toilet is constantly leaking, and its level is normal, we move on. There are several reasons for this leak. And if so, then the methods of elimination will be different.

The sealing gum under the drain valve in the tank silted up, dirt got under it, a groove (or several) appeared on its surface. The method of treatment is to clean the existing gasket or replace it with a new one. To reanimate the old one, you need:
- turn off the water, flush it,
- remove the trigger mechanism by unscrewing the plastic nut from the bottom;
- pull out the drain valve, remove and examine the gasket, clean it of settled particles, if necessary (there are grooves), grind it with very fine sandpaper until smooth;
- reinstall, connect everything and check the operation.

Water is not drawn

Another problem that you can fix with your own hands is that water is not drawn into the drain tank. Most likely it's a blockage - a filter or tubes are clogged. Long talk, better watch the video.

Each modern house has plumbing fixtures necessary for a comfortable stay. Among them, toilet devices are of particular importance. Their high performance is achieved by improving the cistern trigger system. The flush tank is one of the main elements of the toilet, which is a ceramic bowl with mechanisms for releasing and collecting water.

Differences flush cisterns for toilets

The modern plumbing market offers a range of drain devices. different kinds and types. Toilet bowls are classified according to many criteria, which are presented below.

Location

Modern drain devices are still installed in the traditional way, creating fused design with a toilet bowl. This design is good in that there is no need to mount an exhaust pipe, which serves as a conductor between the drain device and the toilet bowl.

Wall-hung toilets and hidden structures are gaining more and more popularity. In the first case, the tank is suspended at a certain height above the toilet. This setting helps strong water pressure which means a good plum. The main disadvantage of the suspended structure is the excessive noise generated when the toilet is flushed. In general, this design is considered very convenient and practical. The appearance of such a system will fit perfectly into the interior of a retro room.

For apartments with European-quality renovation, the installation installation will be an ideal option. The tank is installed in the wall in such a way that it becomes completely invisible in the restroom. To start such a system, just press a special button on the panel.

Trigger type

The most common are drain cisterns having push button trigger. It has proven to be a reliable and durable system. Push-button descent is located in the center or side of the drain bowl. This design is always used for closed types of cisterns.

Increasingly, they began to produce drain devices equipped with levers or chains. Typically, such a mechanism is placed on the side of the drain system. To drain the water, pull the chain or lever. This is a fairly convenient design for a hanging drain bowl. The trigger mechanism itself, regardless of the installation method, can be either manual, when the user himself sets the volume of flushed water by pressing the button for a certain time, or automatic.

Material

According to the material, drain tanks are divided into: ceramic, cast iron, plastic.

At the moment cast iron drain bowls practically never produced. In some houses such rarities have been preserved. They continue to be used, not wanting to replace outdated material with more modern counterparts.

The most popular and affordable are faience cisterns, which are used for both continuous and hinged structures. Plastic bowls are used for drain systems built into the wall. Such tanks have a non-standard less voluminous shape.

The way the mechanism works

According to this criterion, tanks with mechanical and automatic modes are distinguished. In the first case, just press the start button. For cisterns with a mechanical lever, the principle of operation is that water flows while the user presses the button.

The main elements of the drain tank

Knowledge of the components of the drain device allows you to repair the tank or replace the failed parts yourself.

Fill valve. This is a device that regulates the level of water in the tank. A float acts as an indicator of the amount of water, which is connected to the filling valve using a brass rod. In early models of drains, the filling valve was located on the side, the float was in a horizontal position. In modern systems, manufacturers, retaining the traditional principle of operation, placed the filling valve at the very bottom of the drain bowl, and placed the float vertically.
Drain and overflow mechanism. The modern drain system is a plastic fitting equipped with start buttons. The drain is connected to the devices for collecting and overflowing water. When the trigger is pressed, the drain system comes into action. To prevent excess water from spilling out, the drain mechanism connected to the overflow device. Due to this, excess water goes into the sewer system. In this mechanism, a very important role is played by a float valve, which is connected to a float that regulates the water level. When the float valve fails, the water in the tank begins to leak.

The principle of operation of the tank (one-piece construction)

The principle of operation of the wall drain tank

Unlike a traditional cistern, the main element of the wall-mounted cistern is siphon. It is a soft corrugated tube. A metal lever is usually used for the trigger mechanism, when pressed, water comes out through the open end of the corrugated siphon tube. Principle of operation wall-mounted cistern consists of the following:

When the trigger lever is pressed, the valve opens the siphon.
Into the hole in the siphon water flow.
When the volume of water in the cistern decreases level indicator (float) goes down thus opening the float valve. Through it, the tank is filled with water.
Water fills the container of the bowl until the float rises. Once this happens, float valve closes thereby preventing the tank from overflowing with water.

Common cistern problems

Thus, the choice of a drain tank depends on its material, mechanism and installation of the structure. Knowing the principles of operation of the drain device, you can independently adjust the mechanism in case of its failure or correctly install the toilet bowl in case of purchasing a new device.

Breakage of the drain tank is a problem that everyone has encountered. The first thing we do when we discover this trouble is to call the plumber. This is the right decision if you do not understand anything about plumbing and you do not have any tools in the house. But if your hands are growing from the right place, and there is a wrench in the pantry, then why not try to repair the cistern yourself? After all, doing repairs yourself, you save money and improve your skills.

How is the drain tank arranged, what kind of breakdowns does it have, and most importantly, to repair it? You will find answers to these questions in our article.

Drain tank device

Before proceeding with active actions, it is necessary to study a little theory and understand how water is drained in the toilet. Any model has two main parts: a bowl that stands on the floor or is fixed on the wall, and a water tank on top. This container is called the "drain tank".

At the heart of the work of draining water is the principle of a water seal. When the lever (button) is pressed, the cork opens, and water is washed off into the riser by gravity.

If you remove the lid on the tank, you will find a mechanism for draining water. It consists of a float, a seal and levers. It is conditionally possible to divide the mechanism of the drain tank into two parts: the water collection system and the drain mechanism.

When the button is released, the drain hole closes and water begins to draw in. The float controls its level and closes the valve at the right time.

Of course, depending on the manufacturer, the design is slightly different, but the meaning remains the same.

Water collection system

The principle of operation of the filling fittings is simple: when the tank becomes empty, it starts the flow of water, when it is full, it stops. A float is required to determine the water level. If there is little or vice versa, a lot of water, you can adjust the desired level yourself. It is recommended to use a volume of 5-7 liters of water.

The fittings that regulate the flow of water can be of several types.

Bottom feed to waste tank

Push button flush mechanism

The button mechanism can be one- and two-mode. In a two-mode drain, there are two buttons: one drains the water completely, and the second - half. This allows you to save water if necessary. Also, a similar mechanism can be implemented with one button, when the drain depends on the degree of pressing.

Preparation for repair

First of all, let's examine the internal mechanism for defects. To do this, remove the top cover, usually it is fixed with a drain button. You need to either simply unscrew it, or pull out the button and unscrew the fastening screw.

Before repairing the drain tank, be sure to shut off the water supply.

Replacement and fastening of parts

After you open the lid, you will see several holes with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm for water supply (maybe only one). In one of them, filling fittings with a membrane valve will be fixed.

The membrane is very sensitive to water quality, so its service life depends on water filters. If there are no filters at all, then it is better to replace the mechanism with a Russian one with a stem valve.

Most often, the issue of repairing a toilet cistern can be solved by a complete replacement of parts. For expensive toilets, it is easy to find a repair kit with a sleeve and a membrane. On cheap models, it is more profitable to buy new fittings, they are not very expensive. The main thing is to choose the desired pipe diameter when buying, usually they are 10, 15 mm, as well as 1/3 and ½ inch.

Fitting kit for toilet repair

When replacing, it is necessary to make a sealed joint, so a sealing gasket is put on before fastening. The fittings are pulled together with a tank nut. Tighten them slightly, otherwise cracks may appear.

Decorative plugs are inserted into the remaining free holes. If necessary, you can change the position of the water supply. If the plug is simply inserted into the hole until it clicks, and does not rest on the nut, then no seals are provided in it, so water will flow out in the event of a malfunction.

At the bottom of the tank are holes for attaching to the toilet. Fastening takes place on metal or plastic bolts. Bolts made of brass and stainless steel are best suited for fixing the toilet bowl. Of course, ordinary metal fasteners are stronger than plastic ones, but they quickly rust. Before fastening, washers and rubber gaskets must be put on.

In the center is the largest hole for draining water. The shut-off valve for the drain tank is fastened with a cap washer through the gasket.

Common drain tank failures

The most common failure is the continuous filling and leakage of water from the tank. The reason for this is the following factors:

float tilt;
the float mechanism does not work;
loose shut-off valve, old rubber seal.

The easiest way to solve the first problem, because in this case the toilet will not even require repair of the drain tank - just open the lid and adjust the float. Also, sometimes the shut-off valve does not fit into place, it is also enough just to put it manually into the recess.

The next problem is that the water fills the tank to the limit and does not stop. To check the mechanism, lift the float up to the stop. If the water does not stop, then the float mechanism will need to be replaced.

And the last point is the old sealant. It is very simple to determine such a breakdown: you just need to press the valve with your hand. If the water stops, you will have to replace the seal. Also, sometimes this is due to the too low weight of the locking mechanism. In this case, weights are added inside to make it heavier.

Another common failure is associated with a worn float. Its tightness is broken, and it does not float well, so the water in the tank does not rise to the desired level. You will need to replace the fittings of the drain tank, but you can also fix the float with your own hands. To do this, its hole is sealed with sealant, glue, heated plastic or any other material at hand. You can also look into a plumbing store, perhaps there will be an analogue of this float.

Not very often, but there are such breakdowns with the tank as: leakage of the tank mounting bolts and failure of the water supply valve. To eliminate them, it is enough to change the gaskets and buy a new valve.

Usually, repairs come down to a maximum of replacing fittings, and this can be done on your own without calling a plumber. The main thing is to choose a quality product and the right size, and then the sound of dripping and gathering water will not interfere.

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By pressing the drain button, all the water from the toilet barrel flows out, then the drain button rises and the barrels are empty, but it’s impossible to make the drain button immediately return back so that the entire barrel does not flow out?

Hello! I am interested in such information there is a toilet bowl with two buttons! But the smaller button does not work and drains the entire tank? Please tell me what to do? Or change the valve itself? Or something needs to be adjusted?

Hello ... Guys tell me how to remove the tank mounting bolts. It scrolls stupidly from below and neither in one nor the other direction ... I will be grateful in advance ...

I ran into the same problem, the bolts were rusty and did not want to unscrew, I had to cut them off with a hacksaw, since there were new fittings in the set.

If water is collected in the tank and does not stop, do not rush to change the float mechanism. In my case, it turned out to be sufficient, simply, to unscrew it and clean the rubber gasket from rust. Everything works again!

We repair the toilet cistern with our own hands: fittings

How to repair a toilet cistern with your own hands. Troubleshooting guide. Scheme and types of popular drain mechanisms.

How the toilet flush mechanism works + an overview of popular faults

A non-functioning toilet can be quite a problem, especially in a house where a large family lives. The services of plumbers are now expensive, and the arrival of a specialist sometimes has to wait for hours. Why not try to fix the problem yourself?

The design of this useful device is not particularly complex. Very often, the toilet flush mechanism becomes the cause of the malfunction. It is necessary to study its device, the principle of operation, as well as get acquainted with the most common breakdowns and the procedure for their elimination.

Drainage device

Toilet bowls and cisterns for them are quite diverse in design, construction, installation method, etc. There are standard "compacts", mounted models in which the tank is installed directly into the wall, as well as models with a free-standing tank.

The latter, however, are becoming less and less common, since such “retro” class plumbing is considered obsolete.

But the drain mechanism inside the tank is of only two types, and the principle of operation in both cases is almost the same. It all depends on the type of water supply to the tank, which can be side or bottom.

Lateral water supply is the most common option. A significant part of the toilet bowls of domestic production is arranged in this way. They are simple, reliable in operation, but during the supply of water to the tank chamber they produce a characteristic noise.

In order to eliminate this drawback, models of tanks were created in which water is supplied from below. In this case, the filling of the container is made with a much smaller number of sounds, but the drain in such tanks is designed a little differently.

The drain mechanism can be conditionally divided into two parts: a device that regulates the flow of water into the tank chamber, as well as a mechanism by which the tank is emptied, i.e. flushing is carried out. In addition, there must be a protective element in the tank - an overflow tube.

In different models, the internal filling of the tank may look different, but functionally it is always three main elements: a float valve, a flush and a protective overflow.

The flow of water into the tank is controlled by a special float valve. It consists of the following elements:

a float that moves freely on the surface of the water;
a rod with which the water supply from the plumbing system is turned on / off;
lever that connects these two elements.

It works like this: when, after flushing, the water level in the tank drops, the float goes down, the lever transfers force to the bar, the water supply opens, and the tank begins to fill. When the float rises along with the water to the maximum level, the rod closes the water pipe and the flow of water stops.

A vertical tube is often attached to the float valve of a tank with a side water supply. This element is necessary so that less noise is produced when water is supplied to the tank.

The second part of the drain mechanism is the flush itself. It consists of a valve that prevents water from flowing out of the tank, as well as a rod with which this valve is opened. A pear-shaped rubber element is usually used as a valve.

Such a mechanism is controlled using a button, a ball that needs to be pulled up, or a rope that is pulled down. The latter option is used only in free-standing “retro” tanks, which are extremely rare.

When the button is pressed, the valve opens and a significant amount of water flows into the toilet, performing the task for which this mechanism was designed.

When the water is completely drained, the valve drops down and securely closes the outlet. At this moment, the float valve is activated, and water begins to flow into the tank. Another useful element is usually built into the drain system - an overflow tube. It prevents water from flowing over the edge of the tank.

This can happen if the float valve breaks down, if the water has not been shut off even after reaching the maximum level. Sometimes the overflow tube is not mounted in the drain valve mechanism, but is installed separately. In models with a bottom water supply, the float mechanism looks a little different, but the principle of its operation is almost the same as in a tank with a side water supply.

Adjusting the amount of water in the tank

The maximum amount of water in the tank is adjusted by changing the length of the lever to which the float is attached. If the role of such a lever is performed by a piece of thick wire (this is still found in older models), it can simply be bent up or down, depending on whether you need to make the amount of water in the tank more or less.

The higher the position of the float in the tank, the more water will flow into the tank.

But instead of wire in modern models, plastic elements are increasingly being used, which, of course, cannot be bent. To change the position of the float, it is simply shifted along the plastic shoulder, placing it closer to the water supply or further away from it.

The closer the float is to the valve, the less water will flow into the tank. To attach the float, a latch is usually used, which must be squeezed out in order to move this element. Sometimes a threaded connection is used, it is usually not difficult to unscrew it and then tighten it.

Such simple manipulations will help to improve the performance of the tank, increase the efficiency of flushing and save a significant amount of water.

The procedure for installing the drain mechanism of the tank

In the process of installing a toilet bowl, it usually becomes necessary to assemble and install a flush mechanism as well. An installation for a built-in toilet is usually supplied already assembled, but you will have to work hard on assembling a compact. Sometimes in the instructions there is a recommendation to first assemble and put the device inside the tank, and then mount the tank on the bowl, but practice shows that this is not always convenient.

First, a special protective gasket is installed on the thread of the drain mechanism.
The construction with the gasket is placed in the drain hole.
The gasket is fixed with a special plastic nut, which should be carefully but tightly tightened.
The drain hole on the toilet bowl is protected by another gasket.
The tank is placed on the toilet bowl and secured with tie bolts, under which there should also be small rubber gaskets to protect against leaks.
Install the water supply.
Connect it to the plumbing system.

After that, you can close the tank with a lid, install the flush controls (button, rod, etc.) and the installation of the toilet bowl can be considered complete.

As a rule, malfunctions are associated with poor-quality production of components or simply outdated parts. Most often, the drain mechanism of the tank causes three types of trouble to its owners:

Water does not enter the tank.
Water pours out of the tank and flows onto the floor.
Water enters the tank, but constantly flows into the toilet, and the tank remains empty or only partially filled.

To find out the cause of the breakdown, usually the inside of the tank has to be removed, disassembled, inspected and repaired. Of course, before starting any repair operations with the tank, you need to turn off the flow of water to the toilet.

This is not difficult to do if, during the installation of the plumbing system, an appropriate shut-off valve was provided.

An important structural element is the tank lid

Models in which flushing is carried out using a button, single or double, are very convenient and popular. However, such a cover must be removed very carefully so as not to damage the control mechanism. Around the button is a special retaining ring.

First you need to carefully unscrew it. Usually this element is made of plastic, with excessive pressure, the ring may burst.

After the ring is removed, the cover must be carefully removed. Sometimes when you press the button, flushing is not performed. Almost always this is caused by the disconnection of the hooks connecting the button and the flush mechanism. It is enough to eliminate the offset so that the tank begins to work normally.

If the buttons sink, this also indicates their incorrect position. After the offset is eliminated, the mechanism will start to work correctly.

Float valve cleaning

If water does not enter the tank, the problem is most likely in the water supply mechanism. It's either clogged or broken. It is necessary to disassemble this part of the device and check if there is any dirt inside. It is usually enough to flush the valve or remove deposits inside the water pipe, and then reinstall the valve to get rid of the problem.

The opening in the valve is very narrow and clogs easily. To clean it, they usually use a piece of wire or a needle. To flush the water pipe, you need to briefly open the stopcock. After the valve is screwed back on and the mechanism is installed, the water is released to check the operation of the system.

If the quality of tap water is low, it makes sense to think about installing a protective filter. This measure will increase the life of plumbing in the house.

Pear problems

If water constantly flows out of the tank into the toilet, then there are problems with the rubber bulb that blocks the drain hole. Either it is too light and needs weighting, or it is leaky and a complete replacement of this element is necessary.

To determine the nature of the problem, you should remove the tank cover and press the flush mechanism from above. At the same time, a sufficient amount of water must remain in the tank.

If the water continues to flow under significant pressure, then the pear is damaged. You should perform the following operations:

Shut off the water supply.
Move the float to the top position.
Remove the flush mechanism.
Remove pear.
Purchase an element of a similar size and shape in a store.
Set the pear in place.
Install the flush device.
Check system operation.

If there is a choice, it is worth giving preference to a pear made of more elastic rubber, this will ensure its better fit to the drain hole.

Sometimes a layer of sealant allows you to solve the problem with a leaky pear, but this is a temporary measure, soon the problem will arise again.

If, when pressing on the mechanism, the leakage is eliminated, it is necessary to weight the pear. For this, various weighting agents are used: lead elements, several bolts, a narrow nylon bag with sand, etc.

The pear is removed, and the weighting agent is placed above it, evenly distributing it around the nozzle. Then the pear is set in place.

If the tank is leaking

If water flows directly from the tank to the floor, then one or more gaskets covering its mounting holes are out of order and need to be replaced. This will require quite a large-scale work:

First, remove the water from the tank.
Then dismantle its internal content.
After that, unscrew the fixing bolts.
The tank is carefully removed from the toilet bowl.
Worn rubber pads are removed.
All connections are thoroughly cleaned of contaminants.
The tank is reinstalled using new gaskets.

Even if only one gasket is leaky, it is recommended to replace all of them immediately, since the remaining elements were subjected to the same destructive effect and may soon fail.

The operations for dismantling and assembling the tank are quite laborious, and such foresight will eliminate the need to do this work several times.

Sometimes the gaskets are fine, and water flows over the edge of the tank. Most likely, the problem is a breakdown of the overflow system. It needs to be either cleaned or completely replaced. It will help to solve the problem and the correct adjustment of the position of the float. This procedure has already been described above.

The gasket located at the inlet of the tank can also leak. It must be replaced in the same way. All joints should be carefully sealed to prevent such breakdowns in the future. At the end of the work, you need to fill and empty the tank several times to make sure there are no leaks.

Features of breakdowns in tanks with a lower water supply

When operating such a device, the same problems may arise as in a side-feed tank. They are dealt with in the same way. But there are also differences. For example, the reason for the lack of water in the tank may be insufficient water pressure in the plumbing system at home.

Diaphragm-type valves are sensitive to this problem. If the water pressure in the system can drop to the level of 0.05 MPa, it is better to choose a device with a stem valve.

The displacement of the elements of the intake mechanism is another common reason for the lack of water in the tank. Even when installing a toilet with a bottom water supply, you should pay attention to this point.

If the elements of the mechanism touch the walls of the tank or the drain mechanism, then they are not installed correctly. To solve the problem, it is enough to return the valve and float to the correct position.

How the toilet flush mechanism works: how it works, types, overview of faults

The device and principle of operation of the flush mechanism for the toilet. An overview of common breakdowns and how to fix them. Photo and video.

The device and components of the toilet flush mechanism. Correct installation

If you buy a toilet without a flush mechanism, then you should carefully familiarize yourself with the correct installation technique for the components of the tank, otherwise you risk not only getting a faulty water drain, but also a high chance of flooding your neighbors from below. Moreover, in addition to the correct installation, you also need the correct adjustment of all components. And, before moving on to the theory of installation, as well as how to disassemble the toilet bowl, you need to figure out what, in fact, the toilet flush mechanism consists of.

The main components of the drain tank

Mechanism for collecting water in a container. From the name it is not difficult to understand that the device fills the drain tank with water to a certain level. The mechanism consists of a shut-off valve, as well as a float. The principle of operation is based on the following - the float attached to the lever moves up or down, depending on the water level in the toilet bowl. When the water reaches the correct level, the float, adjusted to the desired water level, raises the attached lever, which closes the shut-off valve, thus blocking the access to excess water. When the water leaves the cistern, then the float drops and the lever makes way for more water to enter;
Water release system. It is intended for the inlet of collected water directly into the toilet bowl. The release mechanism consists of the following parts: a release handle (button) and a drain siphon. The siphon is designed to seal off water access, which prevents unnecessary leakage. To date, there are several types of drain siphons. The representative of the old generation is the simplest pear-shaped system. Assumes the presence of a rubber cylinder, which, in shape, may look like a plunger. In order for the drain tank, in such a system, to empty the accumulated volumes of water, a lever or handle is usually mounted on the side of the tank, which must be lifted up. The representative of a new generation is the descent mechanism, in the scheme of which there is a drain button.

Flush mechanism for the toilet

Features of the correct installation of drain equipment

Any business is important to start. Disconnect the flush tank from the toilet, for a more comfortable installation of mechanisms. Then follow the instructions:

Once the above steps are successfully completed, you need to install the toilet tank directly on the toilet itself:

Carefully place the tank on the area of the toilet bowl, where the holes for the mounting bolts are located. Try to perform all actions smoothly and slowly so as not to earn chips on ceramics;
In order for the drain tank to be filled with water, it is necessary to fix the liquid filling device;
Install the tank lid and attach the drain button.

And so, all the necessary fittings are installed. Try not to skew the mounting bolts and do not wrap anything extra on the thread to avoid excessive tension.

Adjustment to be made after installation of fittings

Such actions are necessary, since tanks of different manufacturers can hold different volumes of water. The height of the drain valve is adjusted as follows:

Disconnect the rod from the water overflow tube;
Press the lock of the special glass;
Move the stand higher or lower depending on the desired height.

Rules for adjusting the fittings of the toilet cistern

In order for the tank to hold the volume of water you need, or rather the required level of liquid, you need to do the following:

It is required to adjust the position of the glass of the toilet cistern. The position can be shifted up or down, but leaving the distance from the top of the glass to the top of the container. The distance must be at least 45 mm;
Then install the water overflow pipe above the maximum possible water volume by about 20 mm, but make sure that the distance from the top level of the rack is no more than 70 mm.

Proper repair of toilet cistern mechanisms

Since the toilet flusher is made from materials that can wear out, there are situations that portend an early failure. As often happens, people find the cistern device already in the stage of failure, so some aspects of effective repair of various breakdowns should be disassembled.

The most common problem is the constant flow of water into the toilet., which does not linger in the tank even when the drain button is released. The fault, in this case, lies in the circuit of the float device. This is either the wear of the inlet valve of the required volume of water, or a strong distortion of the lever, or a problem with the buoy (float). In the case of a float, the solution is simple - sometimes cracks form on it, which allow the old buoy to sink in the volumes of water in the toilet bowl, so it needs to be replaced.

The large volumes of water that the toilet cistern handles can bend the flush lever, which is controlled by the button. You just need to return it to a horizontal position.

The toilet cistern device often has a valve that cannot cope with large volumes of water. In this case, you should install a special float valve that will withstand the required amount of water that enters the tank from the toilet.

Flush mechanism for toilet installation and repair

Toilet cistern device repair video. Toilet cistern device with a button with a lower water supply. How to disassemble a toilet bowl with a button

W glancing into a leaking toilet bowl, another home master first scratches his head, and then calls the plumber.

But if, without hurrying to understand the device of the mechanism for draining and filling the tank, the apparent pile of details appears simple and logical.

Let's see how the toilet flush system works, is installed, and adjusted. Let's figure out why it fails, and try to repair this witty device.

How does a toilet flush work?

With a huge variety of drain systems, their principle is identical. And if you know how one model of the water drain system in the toilet works, then, after thinking, you will understand any other.

The drain system consists of two parts.

drain valve

It is controlled by a lever or button brought out to the outside. The task of the drain valve is to open the way for water during flushing and to keep it securely in the tank for the rest of the time.

In older models, with a high cast-iron tank, the drain hole was plugged with a heavy iron plug. They lifted it by pulling the chain connected to the lever. The lever, in turn, lifted the cork, opening the way for water.

If the chain was thrown, the cork fell again, blocking the pipe. And to get the right amount of water, you had to stand next to the toilet and hold the lever.

The inconvenience was eliminated by replacing the heavy cork with a hollow pear-shaped valve. Opening the way for water, the plug pops up, and the drain remained open until the water left. The valve descends with the water and closes the outlet again.

The hollow "pear" is still in use, but more complex systems of an overflow tube, a rubber valve and a plastic float are used more often, working on the same principle.

Water supply unit with float valve

The base and here is a float connected through a lever with a water tap membrane. When the water is released by the drain valve, the float is at the bottom, releasing the membrane. Water is pouring into the tank.

The water rises, and the float rises with it. At a certain level, through the lever and the stem, it presses on the faucet membrane, which shuts off the water supply. The tank is full of water and ready for a new flush (Fig. 1).