Types and designs of cesspools. Do-it-yourself cesspool for a private house. Necessary tools and materials

House sewerage in a private house is presented cesspool. It is necessary to build a pit, fill the bottom with concrete or fill it with rubble, overlay with rings or bricks. The design is quite simple, all the work, if desired, can be done independently. You can also turn to professionals and check all the processes personally, having previously familiarized yourself with the necessary information.

The device of the drain pit largely depends on the needs of the owners of the cottage or private house. So for not a large number waste and use of the pit only on weekends, a design without a bottom is suitable. But for permanent use will have to equip a closed version.

Cesspool without a bottom is like a well. Equip walls that prevent contaminants from entering the soil. The bottom is covered with gravel, which acts as a filter. You can clean such a hole much less often.

Sewer drains are advised to separate and use different pits for a toilet, shower, garbage. So the drain in the toilet will be more slowly contaminated.

You can use bioactivators to accelerate the decomposition of waste. Only silt will remain in the hole, and the water is removed using a filter. Soil bacteria also act, but their small amount is not enough to process large volumes.

Contraindications to the installation of cesspools without a bottom:

1. Do not install sewers near groundwater. When there are spring floods, the water level in the pit rises. In addition, there is pollution of the soil by runoff, since the water is not filtered.
2. It is contraindicated to place a sewer pit on clay soils. Such soils do not pass water well, which makes it difficult to filter.
3. The recommended volume of the pit is 1 cubic meter. m.

Sealed pits are storage tanks. Waste is pumped out using special machines. Of course, you will have to turn to professionals for help, but such a structure is safer for the environment and universal for installation in any type of soil. The role of cesspools closed type often perform special designs - septic tanks.

Rules for installing a drain pit in a private house

First you need to decide on the location of the sewer pit. In doing so, it is important to take into account a number of factors. So you can not place the drain next to the house, and the size of the pipes should not be too long. The cleaning machine must have Free access to the drainage hole.

Sanitary requirements for the arrangement of a cesspool:

• From the pit to the nearest buildings should be at least 5 m;
• Groundwater should not reach 1 m to the sewer;
• The distance to a well or well depends on the type of soil: clay - 20 m, sandy loam - 50 m, loam - 30 m;
• The interval from the fence to the edge of the drainage is 1 m.

A drainage hole will perform its functions better if it is dug with a margin.

When determining volumes, it is necessary to take into account the composition of the soil. Clay soils, for example, do not absorb the liquid fraction well. The first year the work will be satisfactory, but every year its functionality will deteriorate.

When the dimensions of the structure are determined, they begin to lay pipes. Make a slope of a couple of centimeters for every meter. With a large length, the slope decreases.

Scheme of a cesspool in a private house

There are several types of cesspools, so the scheme of each type has its own differences. Can use different materials for walls. So they build pits of their concrete rings, bricks or cinder blocks.

Scheme of a cesspool with rings:

• Rings 100 cm long and 70 cm in diameter;
• Hatch made of iron or wood;
• Ventilation riser;
• Reinforced concrete floor;
• Concrete and iron support ring;
• Plate on the bottom;
• Cement strainer.

Increase the size of the pit with more concrete rings or choose a material larger diameter. There are rings with a diameter of 1.5 and 2 m. In this case, it is necessary to correctly measure the distance to wells, wells and other sources drinking water. You also need to consider the interval to a residential building.

The sequence of the construction of a cesspool of concrete rings

First of all, it is necessary to draw up a detailed drawing, which will indicate the overflow system, the depth of the "well", the inlets and outlets of the pipes. Then prepare all the necessary tools and materials for work. When all the preparation is over, they begin to dig a pit. When digging a hole, you must remember all the requirements of the sanitary instructions.

The dimensions of the pit depend on the rings and based on safety requirements. So in close contact with groundwater, good waterproofing is taken care of. When using special equipment, they immediately dig a volumetric pit into two chambers. If do-it-yourself work is done, then a separate pit is provided for each container.

The sequence of installation of concrete rings:

1. The bottom must be well tamped and leveled. Next, the plate is mounted on the bottom.
2. To concrete the bottom yourself, first fall asleep sand cushion. Enough 30 cm of material, after which everything is compacted. Then the formwork, armored belt is installed and everything is poured with concrete.
3. In the absence of a bottom, another preparation of the base occurs. No need to compact the soil. For filtration, a layer of crushed stone is poured.
4. Along the edges tiled base inflict cement-sand mortar, on which lies the first ring. Then the rest of the rings are laid according to the same principle.
5. When sewerage requires better strength, the rings are additionally fastened together with bolts or metal plates.
6. Cut holes for pipes with overflow. Sewer pipes lead into a receiving tank.

The entire structure must be well sealed. All joints, cracks and gaps must be sealed. To do this, use cement or other sealants. These works are carried out on both sides of the rings. Outside the ring, you will also need to additionally lay a layer of waterproofing.

To strengthen the waterproofing, the walls are covered with clay 30-50 cm thick.

It remains only to install the floors. Channels or corners are mounted on the rings, formwork with a cutout for hatches is placed on them. Next comes the installation of a layer of waterproofing, armored belts and ventilation. The flooded sewer pit is covered with polyethylene. After drying, the film is removed, and the floor is covered with earth.

Installation of a cesspool made of bricks

To begin with, choose a place to install a cesspool. It is important to observe sanitary rules. Take into account the location of the source of drinking water. Also at the preparation stage, stock up with all the necessary tools.

It is imperative to install ventilation that will remove methane. In its absence, the sewer may explode. To do this, make a special hatch.

Stages of laying out a pit with a brick:

1. The walls are leveled and protected from sprinkling;
2. The bottom is covered with a sand cushion;
3. Concrete is poured on top of the sand;
4. A week later is done cement-concrete screed(you can put a finished concrete slab);
5. Bricklaying;
6. Installation of waterproofing;
7. Installation of the ceiling, reinforced concrete is used for this.

The ceiling is equipped with a hole for the hatch. Through it, you can pump out sewage. With independent equipment of the cover, it is necessary to make a formwork. It is poured with two layers of concrete. Next, the device is covered with a film. When the concrete dries, the formwork is covered with earth from above.

Do-it-yourself cesspool equipment without pumping

The absorption pit provides a self-contained sewer that you can lay out with your own hands. The waste pit has an open bottom, on which a layer of rubble is laid. Liquid drains seep through the stones, while the solid remains in the pit.

For large volumes of waste, it is advised to equip a septic tank, since soil microorganisms will not be able to cope with such work.

Bacteria from the soil feed on organic matter, processing it. The depth of the pit depends on the number of family members and the intensity of the waste. On average, 120-200 liters per day are taken per person. Liquid with water seeps through the gravel after 3 days.

Advantages of a drain pit without pumping:

• Simple arrangement;
• All materials are freely available;
• Quick installation.

But there are also drawbacks to this design. Constantly present unpleasant odor from stocks. It is also worth noting that an open sewage pit threatens nature.

Do-it-yourself cesspool (video)

The burial pit is a necessary sewer plant for a country, private house or cottage. There are 2 options for the execution of the cesspool. An open pit does not provide for a bottom. Only a stone layer is poured on the bottom, which performs filtering functions. The closed drain is a completely hermetic design. Its installation requires the arrangement of a solid bottom and cover.

After building a house, the second most important issue is the construction of a cesspool. City residents do not think about draining, but this is important for living in a private house. How less problems with functioning sewer system, topics more comfortable accommodation. The design of the cesspool is very simple and when used good materials will last a long time. The main thing is to correctly calculate the required volume.

Cesspool Rules

Before building a sewer, you need to choose a place. Keep in mind that it should not be placed close to home and pipes should not be excessively long. The sewage truck needs free access for waste removal.

The distance from the cesspool to other objects on the site is regulated by the rules and regulations.

Basic device rules:

• The distance from a private house to the sewerage system is at least 5 m.
• Distance from ground water to the bottom of the pit - not less than 1 m.
• The distance from the fence to the edge of the sewer is not less than 1 m.
• Distance to drinking water sources different types soils: clay - from 20 m, sandy loam - from 50 m, loam - from 30 m.

By correctly determining the volume of the cesspool, you will provide it with long term services. When calculating, proceed from 0.5 m 3 per person. But these figures do not take into account the characteristics of the soil. The absorption rate in clay soil is low. Therefore, the first year the sewer will normally cope with waste. But the more the soil soaks different substances, the filtration capacity will deteriorate.

For better functioning make a cesspool with a margin(for 3 people 6 m 3). This will increase the service life and save money on calling a sewage truck.

After defining required volume pipes are being laid. The slope should be 2-3 cm per meter. The longer the length, the smaller the slope.

Types of cesspool

Exist the following types cesspool structures:

• Surface.
• Underground.
• Sealed.

superficial

In private suburban areas, surface cesspools are rarely used. This is due building codes, along which a sewer structure located on the surface must be built with a deepening. And the pipes are laid above the ground, which is not very convenient. But if a high level groundwater does not allow you to build an underground cesspool, then this is a good way out of the situation.

For the construction, brick, concrete and plastic containers are used. The use of wood is not justified due to decay, difficulty in assembly and hygroscopicity. most economically profitable solution in terms of price, durability, quality, is a brick.

The location on the site is selected individually, based on the features of the relief, soil type, location of buildings and water sources. The distance to residential buildings is at least 15 m. Consider houses in neighboring areas. To the border of the site should be at least 1 m, which is quite enough for pumping out with a sewer.

On the surface of the cesspool filtration trench provided to drain liquid. It should not pass close to water sources.

The design of the surface pit consists of walls, a bottom, fences and a concrete cover designed for pumping and controlling the level of effluents. The volume is determined based on the number of residents. Optimal size- 3 m 3, this is how much a sewer can take out in one go.

The surface cesspool can be two- and one-section. In the latter version, the liquid accumulates to a certain level, and then is taken out by the machine. Option with two tanks, diverts part of the liquid into a special drainage ditch.

Walls need to be processed special materials to prevent the flow of sewage. The main is supplied with a pipe, on the one hand, and on the other, a drainage is connected. Such a pit is equipped with ventilation.

The scheme of work is simple. Effluent flows through the pipeline into the tank. Accumulate up to the dividing wall and settle. The liquid in the septic tank is cleaned of fractions and drained through the drainage into a special trench.

The surface pit is designed to work in warm time year, maintenance takes place in the same period. Periodically it is necessary to check the fluid level and add bacteria that are designed for sewers. They process waste and bad smell. Before the cold weather, the septic tank is pumped out, otherwise the structure may crack from freezing. After winter period, the septic tank is checked for damage and repaired if necessary. The same applies to the pipeline.

Underground

The least energy-intensive option for a cesspool for a private house. This is a small building that collects sewer drains natural way. They are also called absorbers.

Sanitary regulations prohibit the operation of sewer storage without an impervious bottom. But there are exceptions, when the amount of drains does not exceed 1 m 3 per day, it is allowed to use a pit with a leaky bottom.

Advantages:

• Low construction cost.
• Fast installation.
• Easy service.

Flaws:

• Limited volume.
• Threat to the environment.
• Bad smell.

The device is very simple. The dug hole is reinforced with bricks, concrete rings and boards. Before starting construction, find out the level of groundwater. It is necessary to optimize the cleaning process Wastewater through the soil. The distance from groundwater to the bottom of the pit is at least 1 m.

Installation begins after digging a trench for sewer pipes. Its width should not exceed 2 m.

The upper part of the pit is closed with a lid with a hatch. During construction, materials resistant to corrosion are used. The design must be equipped with a ventilation pipe. Air speeds up the process of processing solid waste and removes gas.

layer of earth above top cover should not be more than 50 cm. Since the pit must be cleaned periodically from unfiltered solids. If you do not carry out such a procedure, then the bottom will quickly become covered with silt and you will need to use a sewer.

Cesspool of rings

A cesspool made of concrete rings is a very popular solution for a country house.

Advantages:

Stages of installation of a cesspool from the rings:

1. A hole is dug out, sufficient for concrete rings.
2. The bottom is flooded concrete mortar. In the proportions of crushed stone to cement 6:1. The solution must harden within 7 days. If the filling is in hot weather, then the surface of the concrete must be periodically moistened, otherwise cracks will appear and there will be no required strength.
3. After the concrete has hardened, we begin the installation of the rings. Without crane not enough here. Some sellers provide a rental service lifting equipment. The rings are gently lowered to the concrete bottom. After installation, the seams are insulated with sealants (liquid glass, rubber-based seals). It is best to use liquid glass, mixing it with cement mortar and applying to the joints between the rings. Internal insulation quite enough, but if your site has a high level of groundwater, then you need to perform an operation with outside. For ease of installation, buy rings that have a "lock". When using conventional ones, the structure will have to be fastened with metal brackets.
4. On the upper part rings mounted concrete floor with hatch hole.

Installation stages.

installation requirements.

• The container should be placed in such a way that there are no turns and bends in the sewer pipes.
• If pipe turns cannot be avoided, make them at right angles.
• The depth of the pipes is 1-1.5 m, to avoid freezing.
• At high level groundwater, a plastic container is installed in a concrete well.

Septic tank for sewerage

To build a septic tank, it is necessary to dig an additional hole, which will be deeper than the first. Reinforced concrete rings are installed on the concrete bottom. In the top ring making a hole for the pipe, through which liquid is poured from one container to another. Pipes are installed depending on the depth of soil freezing.

To operate a septic tank use special biopreparations that process wastewater. Filtered water from the septic tank is transferred to the main pit, from which it flows into the ground. The slope of the pipes during installation is 15 degrees, the width is 15 cm. The trench is buried after the control descent to make sure that correct work systems.

A responsibility

When constructing a cesspool must comply with the rules and regulations for this type of building. If any sewage element is installed incorrectly, leakage and contamination of the territory, as well as the water source, may occur. For causing serious damage, liability is provided, up to criminal.

Regardless of the type of cesspool, its development should be carried out by a specialist, which will not only take into account all factors, but also monitor compliance with all building specifications during the construction process. This is the only way to be sure that the sewage system is environmentally friendly and will last a long time.

For urban residents, communal amenities are familiar and natural. Whether it's suburban housing, in which most of the amenities need to be built on their own. And sewerage is practically in the first place. In rare cases on suburban area it can be connected to centralized networks. There are also quite a few autonomous methods - a cesspool, storage tanks, various septic tanks. The choice of drainage methods today is huge, but each of them has its own characteristics.

Do-it-yourself cesspool - cheap and practical!

No one will argue that affordable development is the most attractive for budget real estate, because you can save a lot on it. In a relationship autonomous sewerage, this principle is also perfectly applicable, because you can make a cesspool with your own hands.

The cesspool has been known since ancient times. Previously, its walls were coated with clay, reinforced with wooden supports, and the upper part was made like a small booth from boards or anything. The principle of its operation has not changed much, but the device of modern analogues has become more technologically advanced. With the advent of new insulating materials, reinforced concrete, filtration methods and soil purification, the pit was no longer considered such a primitive device.

If we take into account all the costs of its construction, then we can say with confidence: the drain pit is one of the cheapest and most available ways autonomous sewer for suburban area, which can be done without the help of specialists on their own.

Cesspool - device features

The most common design of a cesspool, which serves as a sewer sump, is a separate outbuilding used locally, i.e. not connected to anything. The main part of it is underground, and on the surface there are plumbing fixtures that function due to it (toilet, shower, etc.).

With the advent of pipes made of corrosion-resistant materials such as PVC, HDPE, it has become possible to connect a cesspool directly to a private house in which the main plumbing fixtures are located. Thus, it is possible to make a self-flowing autonomous sewer in the country.

Structurally, a cesspool can be of several types:

Important!
The use of an aerotank in a sump will be quite effective if a colony of bacteria is placed in the pit, accelerating the process of oxidation and processing of organic matter and providing them with access to oxygen. In this case, soil post-treatment with filtration layers will also work more efficiently, since the processed effluent becomes clarified and liquid, which means it is easier to seep into the soil.

Basic requirements for the construction of cesspools

Despite the promising prospects, such a device must be carefully calculated and designed. How to do it and why is it needed?

The placement and arrangement of external networks of autonomous sewerage is regulated by the norms of SanPina, SNiPs. Failure to comply with these standards entails administrative responsibility on the part of sanitary and epidemiological supervision. This is done primarily in order to ensure reliable environmental protection of soil and groundwater from harmful effluents and waste discharged into the sewer.

The remoteness of cesspools on the site is also significant for fences, trees, outbuildings, pipelines and open reservoirs, water tanks. Each of these elements has its own minimum distance standards that must be observed.

The location of the bottom of the pit should be at least 1 meter above the groundwater level. At the same time, its depth should not exceed 3 m, since in this case it will be difficult to clean it from drains, and silting of the bottom will be inevitable.

The minimum slope of the gravity sewer must be at least 5o. When accompanying effluent emissions with water, this value may be slightly lower. Diameter sewer pipe it is necessary to choose at least 100-150mm, in order to avoid congestion.

Cesspool - calculation of parameters

The number of consumers and plumbing fixtures in a summer cottage can be different, so it is necessary to calculate the capacity of the cesspool.

The calculation formula for sealed containers with forced sewage is as follows:
Vpits = Qdays * Qperson* Vperson * 0.001, where:
Vpits - the desired volume of the cesspool, (cubic meters);
Qdays - the interval for cleaning the sump with a cesspool machine;
Qpers. - the total number of consumers;
Vpers. - the volume of water consumed, discharged into the pit (person / day).

To calculate other options for cesspools equipped with soil filtration and aerotanks or settling tanks, other calculation formulas are used. For various models septic tanks, these design parameters are offered in ready-made manufacturers.

Cesspool - manufacturing technology at their summer cottage

A typical scheme for arranging a cesspool consists of the following steps:

• Determination of the location of the pit, binding to plumbing fixtures- after calculations and the choice of a construct, the pit must be determined in place on the site, taking into account all the norms and rules of the construction business;
• earth and preparatory work - this stage is one of the most time-consuming and costly, which will have to be done in order to build a pit. Especially for several containers that occupy a rather large area, it is worth resorting to the help of special equipment for digging a pit. Building site clearing and sand and gravel preparation are also very important for sustainable development;
• Installation or manufacture of a pit container- this stage can be divided into 2 parts, which differ depending on its design. If we are talking about ready-made one or more containers, they only need assembly and installation. In the case of making all parts of the sump with your own hands from reinforced concrete, bricks or ready-made reinforced concrete rings, its device begins with the preparation of the bottom, sealing the walls of the pit. Followed by technological process erecting a pit container, placing formwork from boards or OSB, pouring concrete or masonry, the final stage of which will be the installation of a floor slab with an outlet for a plumbing fixture, inspection hatch or a ventilation outlet, which you can do on your own;
• Installation of plumbing fixtures- the final stage of construction, which determines the functionality of the cesspool.

With a sufficient amount of knowledge, such an event as a do-it-yourself cesspool is not so difficult task, which can be mastered without outside help, and provide yourself and loved ones with a comfortable stay at their summer cottage.

There are many problems in a private house, one of them is the arrangement of a cleaning device. Not everyone can afford to buy a factory septic tank, it's quite expensive. For those who are constrained financial terms you can save money and independently make the simplest device for collecting domestic wastewater - a cesspool.

This construction is quite simple, although there are some nuances that will have to be taken into account. Despite the apparent simplicity, the construction will have to be carefully prepared. The main thing is to follow sanitary requirements and rules and determine the volume of the storage tank.

Types of cesspools

The cesspool can be one of two types:

1. without bottom;
2. sealed.

The choice depends on how often and how many people use the sewer. If a small family lives in the house from time to time, then a pit without a bottom will completely cope with the task. But at permanent residence, With large quantity users, it is better to choose a sealed container. Let's consider each option in more detail.

Video: Cesspool Construction stages

Pit without a bottom

This structure is similar to an ordinary well - the walls do not allow runoff to enter the upper layers of the soil, and at the bottom there is a the simplest filter crushed stone or gravel. Passing through the filter layer, sewage is partially cleaned and once in the ground, they undergo additional treatment.

The advantage of this type of cesspool is that you can do with almost no pumping. Although, it will not work to completely abandon the services of vacuum trucks, but you will have to resort to their services quite rarely. To reduce the frequency of cleaning the pit, you can use the method of separating drains, that is, make a separate tank for the toilet. Thus, the water from the bathroom and kitchen will completely go into the ground, since it contains few insoluble particles.

Another way to reduce the frequency of cleaning the pit is to use special bioactivators. When using them, impurities decompose faster, the liquid is removed through the filter layer, and only sludge remains inside.

Cesspools without a bottom cannot be made if:

1. groundwater is located close to the surface;
2. the soil in the area is clayey;
3. the required volume exceeds 1 m³, the bacteria that are in the soil will not cope with a large volume of effluents and contaminated effluents will fall into the ground.

Sealed cesspool

This type of construction is cumulative and requires constant pumping by a sewage truck. And although in this case you will have to periodically spend money on paying for sewers, this option is not without advantages:

1. soil contamination is excluded, thus sanitary safety measures are observed;
2. can be used regardless of the type of soil.

As a drive, you can use ready-made plastic structures, but they are produced in small volumes. If you need capacity big size, it is more expedient to assemble it, for example, from concrete rings.

Calculation of dimensions and choice of location

The next step is to calculate the volume of the cesspool and choose a place for its construction. Cesspool, according to sanitary standards, must have throughput in the amount of a three-day water intake. With permanent residence, one person has up to 200 liters of liquid (cooking, bathing, etc.).

Therefore, it is believed that a tank with a volume of 1.5 - 2 m³ is needed per family member. If, however, this is a cottage or country house, which are not often visited, the volume can be reduced to 0.5 - 1 m³.

One of milestones the construction of a cesspool is the choice of a place for its location, in accordance with sanitary standards. Location rules are detailed in this article: . The table shows the main requirements:

In addition, free access to the cesspool is required for the access of a sewage truck.

Construction technology

The construction of a cesspool can be divided into several stages:

• By choosing appropriate place, it is necessary to mark and dig a pit in accordance with the selected storage volume.
• Mounting. When installed ready, plastic container, it is simply lowered to the bottom of the pit. When installing reinforced concrete rings, the bottom is first covered with sand or poured with concrete. After that, the rings are lowered one by one.
• Waterproofing. Bitumen is used for the inside, the same bitumen or oily clay is used outside.
• Pipeline laying. Please note that pipes must be laid under.
• Backfilling the storage tank and sewer pipes with soil or sand.
• Cover installation. As the top floor, you can use a concrete cover, in which you need to make two holes: for cleaning the well and the ventilation pipe.

Pit cleaning

Regardless of which type of pit you choose, there will come a time when it will eventually fill up. Cleaning can be done on your own - with a special pump, or call for vacuum trucks, which is more efficient. However, this does not completely solve the problem. The fact is that in any case, only liquid is pumped out, and solid, insoluble waste settles at the bottom.

The solution to this problem is to use special preparations for septic tanks or cesspools. These include:

1. Bioactive supplements with live bacteria - effective work, eliminate odors, environmentally friendly. However, they work at temperatures from +4 ° C, with sub-zero temperature bacterial colonies die.
2. Chemicals - it is better to use nitrate oxidizers, as they are safe for humans, animals and plants.

Cesspool material

As a material for a cesspool can serve:

Video: Cesspool.

Depending on the amount of drained water, you can choose suitable option:

• a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option to make a drain in the bath;
• sealed cesspool - for a large number of drains;
• septic tank - for partial treatment and draining of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drain cesspool?

If the daily amount of discharged water does not exceed one cubic meter, you can use drain hole. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bath. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a pillow of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold, which can be immediately buried.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

A septic tank is the best cesspool

If the amount of discharge exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is unprofitable to order a monthly pumping out of the pit, the best way out is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting environment much smaller than the usual latrine with a pit. Ready-made systems are sold, which are enough to bury on the site, or you can do it completely on your own.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has a number of advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;
+ does not require a large area for the organization of the filtration field;
+ you can organize one septic tank for two houses;
+ depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;
+ spend complete cleaning Maybe once every ten years.

But the disadvantages of such a septic tank are also present:

- significant labor costs - it is problematic to cope with the device of a septic tank alone;
- time - pouring cement into the formwork and its hardening takes about a month;
- additional equipment - to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or a drill with a mixer.

Site selection

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about the neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But to the house it can be placed almost close - 3 m from the foundation with one-story building, and for 5 m - with a two-story. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is solved - the greater the distance to the pit, the deeper you will have to dig a trench and insulate the pipe.

Be sure to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood water - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to arrange a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, it can not be buried completely in the ground, insulating the above-ground part to prevent freezing.

Step by step instructions on how to make a septic tank

After choosing a place for a septic tank, work begins on its organization. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and overall dimensions excavation. So, for four people, the main chamber will be at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six - 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and it is used daily, the size of the chambers must be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small margin, since the filling of the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, stocks in working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately overflow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

1. After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a foundation pit is dug. Upper fertile layer removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and the device beds.



2. The trench for the drain pipe is dug at the same time as the pit. The slope of the pipe is 3 degrees per meter. So that the masses do not stagnate, the pipe must be laid without straight and sharp corners.
3. It is advisable to get to the sandy or sandy soil. On the clay soil a sand and gravel pad is being made. First, 30 cm of sand is poured and tamped, and then the same amount of crushed stone of a fraction of 5 cm. Thus, for a septic tank 2.5 m deep, you will have to dig a pit 3.1 m deep.



4. The rest of the formwork is done on top of the pillow. The formwork along the walls is one-sided - the second side is the earth.



5. A drain pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is inserted into the formwork at a height of at least 80 cm from the bottom. If it is above freezing of the soil, the pipe must be insulated.
6. A tee is inserted into the wall formwork between the chambers, through which settled water will drain into the drainage chamber. It should be 20 cm below the drain pipe.
7. Concrete can be kneaded both manually in a trough with a chopper, and a concrete mixer. To give the mixture elasticity and frost resistance, you can add a tablespoon of ordinary washing powder to each bucket of water.



8. Concrete mixed with crushed stone and stones is poured into the formwork different sizes, and the mixture itself is bayoneted, removing air bubbles. The pipe and the tee are poured so that after the formwork is removed, there is a monolithic wall around them.



9. As soon as the concrete hardens, you can make the top floor. It is most convenient to use corrugated board for formwork. It is laid so that it goes halfway onto the walls of the septic tank - so that when pouring, the roof and walls merge into a monolith.
10. A technical hatch with a diameter of 1 m is made, around which formwork is installed. It is necessary to make two holes above the chambers and insert pipes. In the main chamber there is a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a reverse slope for pumping out sludge, which does not reach the bottom by 20 cm. A vacuum release hole is made at the end of such a pipe. Inserted into the second ventilation tube 50 mm in diameter.





11. An overlap with a minimum thickness of 15 cm is poured with the obligatory addition of stone and bayonet. After hardening, the septic tank is covered with waterproofing and can be completely covered with earth, leaving only a technical hatch. So that in winter the septic tank does not freeze through this hatch, it is covered with foam plastic and covered with another lid.

An improved do-it-yourself cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber becomes silted, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and the final cleaning of the drain water takes place in the second chamber.

And how to make a simple cesspool is described step by step in the video: