Many summer residents want to insulate their house from the outside so that they can live in it during the cold season. It is important to isolate the walls, because up to 30% of heat is lost through them! A variety of heaters are presented on construction markets. Their types need to be sorted out.
Styrofoam
Styrofoam, aka expanded polystyrene. It is made in different ways, so the properties of the material are different. For wall insulation, it is best to take extruded polystyrene, strong and durable. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity (0.026 W/m°C). Thermal conductivity does not change even at high humidity, low water absorption and vapor permeability. Density - from 20 to 48 kg / m3.
On the photo-foam for warming the cottage outside:
The advantages include high mechanical compressive strength, which depends on the thickness and density of the material.
Fungus, mold does not form on it. Easy to install: easy to cut, the boards are attached to the outer walls with dowels. A metal or polymer mesh is mounted on top, on which a decorative layer is then applied.
Polyfoam is durable, does not deform and does not lose its qualities. The material is light, so no strengthening of the foundation is required, and it is easy to work with it. Affordable price is an important argument for those who decide to insulate the cottage.
For thermal insulation of walls, you should choose extruded polystyrene foam, made with the addition of flame retardants - this is a slow-burning material.
Disadvantages of expanded polystyrene:
- combustibility. Easily ignites, burns, heating up to +75 degrees, acrid toxic smoke is released during combustion. You can secure your home by choosing polystyrene impregnated with an antiprene compound.
- Low vapor barrier. Moisture may accumulate inside the room. Therefore, it is necessary to install additional ventilation, and this is an additional cost.
- Not UV resistant– radiation, requires coating.
- It can host rodents. although the manufacturers claim otherwise.
- Mice make their holes in it and getting rid of such "neighbors" is problematic. It is possible to avoid them only with the correct installation of the foam.
- Decomposes on contact with solvents(sometimes insulation is accompanied by waterproofing, for which bituminous mastic with a high solvent content is used).
- Material retains water and steam if the house is wooden, then mold may appear in it, a musty smell, the tree may rot. The house does not "breathe", the concept of an eco-friendly house is violated.
On the video - insulation for walls outside the house in the country:
Specifications vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most popular brands in the Russian market: Rockwool, Isover, Ursa, Penoplex, Technoplex, Knauf.
The materials are similar, but there are differences. For example, graphite is added to Technoplex, it gives strength. Due to this additive, the material becomes gray. In terms of cost, Penoplex is cheaper than, for example, Knauf. To insulate the facade of the cottage, slabs with dimensions of 0.5 x 1, 1 x 1 m are suitable. They are easy to cut, it will not be difficult to insulate complex details on the facade.
It is necessary to insulate the walls of the house from the outside with foam plastic with a density of 25 kg / m3. Plates with a density of 15 kg / m 3 are not suitable for such work, the material is not strong enough and reliable, and is also short-lived.
Styrofoam with a density of 15 kg / m 3 is suitable for insulating those parts of the building where serious insulation is not required. For example, verandas, balconies.
Thicker slabs (35 kg / m 3) usually insulate the roof, the walls are not economically profitable. Therefore, the most demanded material is with a density of 25 kg / m 3.
Important! Polyurethane foam is not suitable for insulation (this is a well-known foam rubber that is short-lived, flammable, the smoke from it is toxic) and polyvinyl chloride foam (very similar to extrusion, but toxic when burned).
What it looks like and what is the name of the insulation under the linoleum on the concrete floor, the information from the article will help to understand:
Mineral wool
Mineral wool is available in many types. But not all of them are suitable for thermal insulation of cottages. According to GOST 52953-2008, fiberglass, slag wool and stone wool are considered heat insulators. Therefore, it is insignificant.
Glass wool. It is made by melting quartz sand or cullet and blown into fine fibers. Light yellow material. It has been used for insulation since Soviet times, the material is popular, cheap and very prickly! It is quite possible to use it, if you have not chosen yet, .
In the photo, glass wool for warming the cottage outside:
The structure of glass wool consists of fibers with a thickness of 5-15 microns and a length of 15-50 mm. Thanks to them, it is strong and resilient. But what is the difference between basalt wool and mineral wool, it will help to understand the video from this
Attention! Glass fibers that break can cause injury. You need to work in a disposable protective suit, gloves, goggles and a respirator.
Slag. Produced from blast-furnace slag (waste from blast-furnace metallurgy). Its fibers are 16 mm long and 4-12 mm thick. Thin and prickly, than they look like glass wool. They are sintered at a temperature of 300 degrees Celsius and the heat-insulating properties of the material disappear. Slag is toxic. And in this article, you can emphasize for yourself
In the photo - slag wool for warming the cottage outside:
Stone wool. Made from stone. Rocks are melted (which is why it is also called basalt) at a temperature of 1400-1500 degrees. The fibers are up to 7 microns thick and up to 5 cm long. There are a variety of shades from light brown to green.
The properties of glass wool and stone are very similar. There are still differences: glass wool is more elastic and lighter. But stone is more fire resistant. It is easier to work with stone wool, and its characteristics are higher: excellent thermal insulation properties, sound absorption, vapor permeability (steam is not absorbed, passes between the fibers), high fire resistance, and is non-toxic when heated. But what is it and where is technonicol rocklite stone wool used, the information will help to understand
In the photo - stone wool for warming the cottage outside:
Material in slabs or rolls is suitable for wall insulation.
Flaws:
- High cost. As a heater for a country house, it may seem like an expensive material to many.
- You need to work in a respirator, because in the process, small pieces still break off, basalt dust is formed.
Liquid thermal insulation materials
Liquid thermal insulation materials can be divided into types:
Ceramic compositions
It looks like thick acrylic paint. The base is really a water-acrylic mixture, to which silicone, rubber, etc. are added. Ceramic granules in the composition contribute to the reduction of heat loss. Some mixtures can only be applied at positive air temperatures, but there are those that can be worked with in frost. Liquid insulation is a homogeneous suspension, it can be applied with a brush and spray gun. In many respects, mineral wool and (expanded polystyrene) are better. But what is the price of liquid ceramic wall insulation from the inside, you can see in this
In the photo - liquid heat-insulating ceramics:
Popular Blends:
- "Astratek" (produced by the Russian company "Astratek"). To insulate the facade of the cottage, "Astratek - Facade" or "Astratek - Universal" are suitable.
- "Arktem" manufacturer - LLC "Arktem" (Russia). For wall insulation outside, Arktem-Facade and Arktem-Standard are suitable.
- "Corundum",
- "Armor".
Advantages of liquid ceramic heaters:
- a layer of 1 mm of liquid insulation in its properties corresponds to a layer of 50 mm of mineral wool;
- the liquid coating is seamless, unlike other materials;
- if summer cottages are insulated with such a coating, then you don’t have to worry that it will be dismantled or damaged during the absence of the owners;
- ease of application (the process is similar to conventional wall painting) allows you to do it on your own, you do not need special equipment and qualified specialists;
- resistance to fungi and mold;
The covering is durable, steady against rodents, moisture, pollution, mechanical damages.
polyurethane foam
Polymer gas-filled material. By structure, it is a cellular plastic. 90% filled with inert gas. Two technologies are used for wall insulation: pouring and spraying. When spraying, a spray gun is used.
In the photo, polyurethane foam for the outer wall:
When pouring, voids are filled with a homogeneous liquid.
Attention! It is possible to insulate a house with such materials in just one day. But special equipment and skills are required. You can't do it on your own. You need to invite the masters.
Advantages of polyurethane foam:
- Thermal conductivity is lower than other thermal insulators. For example, a 1 cm polyurethane foam coating corresponds to a 30 cm brickwork or a 5 cm mineral wool layer.
- Excellent sound and waterproofing.
- It has high adhesion, therefore it is suitable for any surfaces.
- Hard-flammable. It will only light up at 500 degrees Celsius.
- Practically does not absorb moisture.
- Easy to spray on various surfaces.
- Applied quickly.
- It is durable, properties remain till 60 years.
- Lightweight material. Suitable for warming old houses, which have a small bearing capacity.
Flaws:
- high cost. The price can be justified by durability, good heat and sound insulation properties.
- Not resistant to UV rays: decomposes into monomers that are harmful to humans. Therefore, additional coating with decorative plaster or water-based paint is required.
- Environmental friendliness not always supported by certificates. Therefore, in construction it is used for outdoor work in small areas.
- When ignited, it smokes strongly, the smoke is toxic.
- Installation is complicated by nuances: if sheet materials are fixed on top of the insulation with self-tapping screws or dowels, solidity is broken. If you give preference to plaster, then the mixture should reliably protect against exposure to ultraviolet radiation, moisture and air.
But what is the shell of polyurethane foam for pipe insulation, you can find out by clicking on
Ecowool
The material itself is not liquid. But it can be the main component of the mixture, which is applied in a liquid state.
In the photo - ecowool for the outer wall:
Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose (waste from woodworking enterprises, printing, waste paper), and 12% is boric acid. Another 8% is flame retardant - a substance that increases the fire resistance of products.
When cellulose is wetted, its fibers become sticky. In addition, glue is additionally added to the mixture. Such a composition is applied to the walls for their insulation.
Ecowool characteristics:
- Low thermal conductivity.
- The spraying is seamless, one hundred contributes to good thermal insulation.
- Excellent soundproofing.
- Environmental friendliness.
- Fire resistance. Ecowool, even when ignited, quickly fades itself, and its smoke is not toxic.
On the video, what kind of insulation is better to insulate the house from the outside:
Flaws:
- Ecowool “shrinks” over time. Therefore, initially it must be taken into account, the layer should be applied 10% thicker than necessary.
- It must not be covered with vapor-tight materials. If there is no ventilation, the thermal insulation properties will be lost.
- High-quality installation can only be carried out by professionals.
Choose the material for the thermal insulation of the dacha, based on the quality characteristics of the material, your financial capabilities and the feasibility of warming in one way or another.
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Insulation of external walls
Ways to insulate walls made of brick and concrete
Since the leader in heat loss (in professional terms, in terms of heat removal) is the outer walls, we will start with them. Here are 3 options for the location of the heater:- from the inside of the wall
- inside her
- outside.
1. In the first case, you can insulate the house in any weather and at any time of the year, keeping the exterior, what is not less important. But at the same time, the loss of usable living space is inevitable, and most importantly, there is a high probability of increasing the humidity of the wall and, as a result, the formation of mold. This can be avoided with the help of additional protection against moisture: it is necessary to provide a vapor barrier to the wall and arrange air in the room. And this is also an expense, and sometimes quite substantial.
2. In the second case, the insulation is placed on the outside of the wall and, forming a three-layer structure. This option is difficult for an already built house, since increasing the thickness of the wall, as a rule, will require altering the foundation. Often from professionals you can hear the term "well masonry". This is just the location of the insulation inside the wall array.
3. The placement of insulation on the outside protects the wall from variable freezing and thawing, evens out its temperature fluctuations and allows moisture to be removed from it. All this helps to keep the room warm in winter and cool in summer. And, of course, it increases the duration of the operational "life" of the wall. However, this method requires insulation with high vapor permeability so that water vapor entering it does not linger in it and does not reduce the quality of thermal insulation.
Plastering or can protect the insulation from precipitation and mechanical influences. This method became possible only after the appearance on the market of modern thermal insulation materials.
Insulation of external walls from the outside is considered the most rational way. And this statement is based on strict and indisputable calculations of building thermal physics.
Most often, a plaster, or "wet", method and device of a hinged ventilated facade is used.
Plaster ("wet") method of insulation is as follows:
- The insulation plate made of or glued with special glue to a dry, carefully leveled, cleaned and primed outer surface of the wall and, to enhance strength, is fixed with dowels in the form of fungi.
- A reinforcing mesh is glued over the insulation, on which a base layer is applied. And on it - a layer of decorative external plaster. It turns out a layered structure of insulation, bearing plaster on the grid and decorative external plaster.
Fastening heat-insulating plates on the outer wall of the house. Variant of the "wet" method of insulation
The advantages of this method- its "budget" and relatively simple implementation. In addition, tasks and finishing are simultaneously solved here. The disadvantages are that this is a rather long and laborious process that cannot be carried out at temperatures below +5°C and in the rain.
The technology of “wet” facade insulation is applicable to all types of walls - brick, cellular concrete, cinder block, plastered, paneled. Exception - and .
Installation of a hinged facade with a ventilated gap finds more and more followers. In general terms, such an external wall insulation design consists of:
- insulation attached with dowels,
- a protective and decorative screen spaced from the insulation by 5 cm (ventilated gap) by means of a so-called sub-facing structure. It can be just wooden slats or metal profiles with consoles, offered today by many companies.
The protective and decorative screen is several centimeters away from the insulation. Photo: Rockwool
The size of the gap between the insulation layer and the screen should provide air draft in it from the bottom up to remove wet vapors that inevitably escape from the room through the wall into the insulation. But under the influence of constant thrust in the ventilated gap, destruction can begin - “blowing out” of the insulation. Therefore, if necessary, it is covered with a windproof film.
There is also a more technologically advanced method proposed by experts. it double density board, from which heat-insulating villi are practically not blown out.
For the installation of a decorative protective screen, porcelain stoneware and fiber cement slabs, metal panels, plastic, wood and other materials are used.
In order to increase traction in decorative and protective screens for country houses during installation, they additionally arrange slotted air intakes. In vinyl siding, often used to create a protective and decorative screen, perforation is already provided on the lower bend of the panel.
The advantage of this method- ease of installation and long service life. Installation of the structure can be carried out at negative temperatures, as there are no "wet" processes. But it is difficult to implement for buildings with complex architecture.
Another undoubted advantage of the ventilated façade is the possibility of replacing screens both in terms of texture and color. Such a replacement allows you to perform an aesthetic "upgrade" of the house at a low cost.
Insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house
In any, log or timber, over time or when the season changes, precipitation (movement) occurs, which is accompanied by cracking of the tree. Moisture appears in stagnant places of cracks, which leads to the formation of rot and the reproduction of wood-destroying insects. This not only increases heat loss, but can generally lead to the destruction of the walls.
To avoid this, after precipitation, classic wall caulk tow, jute, linen. Or use the modern method - the so-called "warm stitch", filling cracks and interventional seams with sealant. These techniques reduce heat loss and preserve natural air exchange and environmental friendliness of the building. However, it must be remembered that both caulking and applying sealant require certain skills and special tools, therefore, in order to obtain a good result, professionals must be involved in their implementation.
An easier way - external insulation with a protective and decorative screen and a ventilated gap between the screen and the insulation. The sub-facing structure, its material and installation will depend on the material of the protective and decorative screen. For example, for a siding screen, wooden bars treated with an antiseptic are vertically attached to the outer surface of the wall, the thickness of which should be 20-30 mm more than the thickness of the insulation (to ensure a ventilated gap). The distance between the bars (sheathing step) is equal to the width of the insulation plate. The insulation is placed between the bars by surprise and additionally attached to the wall with anchors. If necessary, and on the recommendation of the manufacturer, a windproof film is laid on top of it.
Interesting examples of external insulation with a siding screen are given in the material. And you can read about other, easier and less expensive ways to insulate a wooden house in the article.
Roof insulation
Usually at a country house with a pitched roof. It can have a roof from or, from or, flat or waved. Depending on this, different roof designs and different methods of its insulation are used.A typical design of a pitched roof insulation system is a “roofing cake” 200-250 mm thick and generally consists (listed from bottom to top) of vapor barrier, heat-insulating and waterproofing layers and roofing.
The attic ceiling is insulated with a "roofing pie". The photo shows a vapor barrier membrane
However, it must be remembered that when exposed to high temperatures, this material melts and releases gaseous compounds harmful to humans. Therefore, it is reasonable to use it in those places where, by definition, fire will not reach it - for insulation, plinths and.
Whatever type of insulation you choose, it is important to remember that compliance with SNiP (Building Norms and Rules) and SanPiN (Sanitary Rules and Norms) for building envelopes will help ensure the required temperature on internal surfaces and prevent moisture condensation inside the premises, as well as its accumulation in the structures themselves - that is, it will increase the heat-shielding properties of your home.
Far-sighted owners understand that warming a country house, both inside and out, is a necessity. For some, a dacha is not only a summer house, but also a great place where you can spend your winter holidays and New Year holidays away from the noise of the city.
In dachas, individual heating is most often installed, and I would not want to waste heat in vain. In order to prevent this from happening, you should try once and insulate the cottage.
How to insulate a country house or a small house with your own hands and with the least waste, you will learn by reading this article.
Stages of work
In what order is it necessary to insulate a house or cottage:
- Preparation for work.
- Slopes and windows.
- Doors.
- Walls.
- Roof.
- Water pipes.
Before you start
Scheme of external insulation
Before you insulate your house and start the corresponding outdoor work, you should complete the internal repair.
Important. If the country house was repaired from the inside, then the walls must be completely dry, and the heating system inside the cottage must be completely ready for operation.
You should think in advance - what material you choose as a heater, while it is necessary to take into account the coefficient of their thermal conductivity. The most popular and effective today are:
- mineral wool (glass wool);
- Styrofoam;
- expanded polystyrene;
- polyurethane foam;
- bulk materials (expanded clay, organic materials).
An important parameter of the insulation is the heat transfer coefficient. In order to make the final choice of material, a table of heat transfer of each of them is presented. It includes the main heaters that can be used as thermal insulation for your cottage from the inside and outside and their thermal coefficient.
Advice. Before you start the process of warming the cottage with your own hands, all surfaces should be prepared. Walls must be carefully primed. They should be free of old, peeling paint, and the surface should be clean and leveled. This is necessary for a better fit of the insulation to the surface, as well as for the insulation system to last as long as possible. Only after that the country house is ready for thermal insulation.
In addition, you should be aware that for each type of surface there are special requirements and different types of installation are assumed. So, consider the external insulation of your country house in stages.
We insulate windows and slopes
We insulate windows and slopes
This type of do-it-yourself insulation is among the first. In order to prevent cold from entering the cottage through the windows, it is necessary to insulate the window frames.
For those who have pre-installed metal-plastic windows with double-glazed windows, the work will be much less than that of the owners of a country house with wooden windows.
Carefully blow out all cracks and recesses under the window with foam and install the outer window sill. Slopes also need to be sealed to avoid even weak drafts. After that, you can proceed to the next step.
Doors and doorways
House door insulation
Insulating exterior doors is a necessary and not at all difficult task. It is very desirable to have a dressing room or a vestibule. In this case, it will be easier to save heat in your country house.
If there is only one door, then it is insulated with foam rubber, foam boards, layers of mineral wool or by blowing its surface with polyurethane foam. The last method is the most effective, since it does not leave the slightest gap in the insulation layer, but it is also the most expensive.
If you decide to insulate the doors with your own hands using foam rubber or foam, then it is more convenient to do this with frame stiffeners. Between them, the material is laid, it is glued to the surface in the cells of the frame. If necessary, such a crate can be created independently and attached to the door leaf using self-tapping screws.
Insulation of walls in the country house outside
Often a dacha is a small house, where there is too little free space to insulate them from the inside. Therefore, the best way to insulate the cottage with your own hands is to choose external insulation when the thermal insulation is mounted outside the building.
External insulation of a country house can be done in several ways:
- frame fastening;
- gluing plus strengthening with dowels;
- spraying method.
Let's take a closer look at each of the methods, since the insulation of wall surfaces from the outside is the most time-consuming and voluminous work when any house or country house is insulated.
Skeleton method
Warming with a frame
This type of insulation fixing is suitable when working with mineral wool, with basalt slabs, and sometimes this method is also used to insulate the walls of a country house with foam boards. Also suitable if you need to insulate the floor.
Do-it-yourself wall insulation using mineral wool is a popular option, since it has a low heat transfer coefficient, it is practically incombustible, plus it is inexpensive.
To do this, attach a frame made of metal profiles or wooden beams to the wall and fill the cells of the crate with insulation so that there are no gaps between the insulation plates.
But mineral wool has a drawback - it is afraid of moisture. Therefore, if you use it for external insulation of the house, you need to take care of the moisture-proof film. After installing the insulation, you can start facing work: the frame is sheathed with siding, clapboard or any other facing materials.
In the same way, it is possible to conduct insulation using the frame method and with other types of heaters.
We glue and strengthen with dowels
You can put such a heater on the glue as polystyrene foam or foam plastic (heat transfer coefficient from 0.031 to 0.042 W / mK), it is ubiquitous, lightweight, easy to install, in addition, it is inexpensive. The process of insulating the walls of the cottage with foam plastic occurs as follows:
- cleaning and leveling walls;
- padding;
- installation of a basement profile (serves as the basis for the bottom row of plates);
- gluing foam boards;
- fixing the plates with dowels with special holding caps;
- seam sealing;
- the imposition of reinforcing mesh and plaster;
- decorative finishing works.
Do not forget that the installation of foam and foam boards is possible only in dry weather, at temperatures from +5 to +30 degrees.
Dowels are located in the corners and in the center of the slab, and the insulation itself is not laid clearly seam to seam, but in the likeness of brickwork. This arrangement allows you to securely fix it on the wall surface and increases the heat-retaining capacity.
Spray method
Outside insulation with polyurethane foam
This method is the most reliable way to insulate your country house from the outside. Polyurethane foam is a foamed mixture that is sprayed onto all wall surfaces from the outside.
In addition to its excellent heat-saving properties (thermal conductivity coefficient from 0.023 to 0.041 W / mK, see table), it also has a fastening property, so this insulation will also strengthen your walls or floor of the house from the inside.
Important. The spraying method is well suited if it is necessary to insulate the country water supply. Its minus is the price and the mandatory work of a specialist, since it should be sprayed in a protective suit with a mask, and special equipment is needed for it.
Roof and attic
You also need to take care of the insulation of the roof. The attic is usually insulated from the inside. If the attic is non-residential, then you can simply insulate its floor: a crate is installed on the floor, into which the selected type of insulation is laid. The technology resembles wall insulation, only on a much more convenient horizontal surface.
You can also insulate the floor by filling the cells of the crate with expanded clay or sawdust, or choose another insulation. Just do not forget about vapor and waterproofing. This is extremely important so that condensation does not form.
Water pipes
It is easy to insulate the water supply in the country with your own hands. To do this, you need to choose the right materials.
To insulate country water supply, special cylinders made of basalt fiber are excellent. Their design allows you to hermetically enclose the pipe, and heat loss will be minimal. From above, such a design-insulation is wrapped with adhesive tape for strength, and in the spring it will be easy and simple to remove it.
Also, often, in order to protect country water supply from the cold, glass wool insulation is used: it is wrapped around pipes, trying to completely insulate them if possible. The disadvantage of glass wool is the need for additional waterproofing.
This is just a brief overview of the methods of summer cottage insulation. And remember that warming a country house is a financial investment that you will never regret, because it improves the interior atmosphere of the country house and keeps it warm for many years.
When using a country house, not only in the summer season, but also in cold weather, it becomes necessary to insulate it.
To solve this problem, two main questions need to be answered: where does the heat leak occur and how is it more efficient
Causes of heat loss
It is not difficult to determine the cause of heat loss. It usually escapes through poorly insulated walls, roofs, floors, windows, and various gaps.
Experts offer to insulate the cottage not only from the outside, but also from the inside.
Material selection
There are a number of requirements for thermal insulation materials.
The insulation must have low thermal conductivity, good hygroscopicity, fire safety and environmental friendliness.
It is necessary that the material reliably prevents heat transfer between the outer and inner parts of the walls, well protects the structure from the inside. 
Today, mineral wool based on basalt or fiberglass is widely used as a heater. If the ventilation of the house is properly equipped, moisture will not be a problem for this material.
New products for high-quality insulation of summer cottages with their own hands are constantly appearing on the building goods market. For example:
- flax fiber insulation - the material is produced in plates, it is easy to cut, does not change shape, environmentally friendly, has good antiseptic properties;
- ecowool - sprayed loose heat insulator, consisting of recycled cellulose with the addition of antiseptics and fire retardants;
- soft fiberboard (MDF) is an environmentally friendly material, it can immediately strengthen the walls.
How and with what to insulate is a matter of taste and a good choice. The main thing is that the country house is reliably protected from the winter cold.
Roof
The roof, if installed incorrectly, can “steal” from you more than 10% of the heat spent on heating the house.
When choosing thermal insulation for a roof, pay attention to the service life, which depends on many external factors: temperature fluctuations, precipitation (especially snow), wind strength and direction. Pay special attention to the water resistance of the material. Also, isolation must be safe for health. The first sign of safe isolation is the absence of a sharp, pungent odor.
Roof insulation with polymeric materials is not the best solution. They ignite very easily and quickly, so you will have to take increased fire safety measures. 
for the roof, stone wool can be considered, which is designed for thermal protection of structures that do not carry serious loads.
Walls
It is the main stage of work, since they occupy the main area of \u200b\u200bany building and have the highest heat transfer.
Surface preparation
Before insulating wooden walls, be sure to clean the entire surface of dirt. Carefully treat the walls from the inside with special solutions and aerosols that will protect the wood from insects. Then caulk all the gaps with dry tow and a thin chisel.
insulation
Jute fabric is very well suited as a heat insulator for walls. It is quickly and easily laid with a construction stapler, does not rot, is not blown out by the wind and is not of interest to moths. Tow and jute fiber have low thermal conductivity due to the capillary structure, easily give off moisture. In addition, as bactericidal materials, they successfully resist the spread of fungus.
It is not recommended to use improvised materials for warming the walls of a country house: felt, batting, wool. They absorb a lot of moisture. As a result, the process of decay quickly begins, and moths are sure to start in the wool.
Window
After the walls are insulated, we move on to the windows. They also lead to significant heat loss, so windows should be given close attention, especially if the design is outdated.
Cleaning and waterproofing
The frames of the house should be thoroughly cleaned of dust, cracked glass should be replaced, and the gaps between the walls and frames should be repaired.
For high-quality insulation, you will need silicone sealant in a special gun. It reliably protects the joints from the inside from fungi and mold. 
Mounting foam will also work. However, it quickly collapses from the sun and is not entirely aesthetic. If you opt for foam, then you will have to take measures to protect it from ultraviolet rays.
D-profile tape
Then you need to glue the sealing tape. D-profile tape works best. It effectively closes gaps up to 7 mm. For a more secure fit, you can secure the tape with studs or staples. 
Glass film and slope insulation
To maximize, paste over them with a heat-saving film. This material is applied directly to the glass. When laying the film, there should be no folds, swelling, bubbles. Carefully done work will save more than 30% of heat.
Do not forget about the insulation of the slopes. For this, various materials can be used, for example, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is fixed on the slopes with glue.
Floor
There are many modern materials for floor insulation. The main thing is that the country house from the inside is as dry as possible.
Styrofoam
Expanded polystyrene does not absorb moisture, durable, strong, good antiseptic. It is convenient to work with such material, since it does not change the initial volume.
mineral wool
Mineral wool is sold in various versions: rolls, slabs, mats. Low density, environmental friendliness, wear resistance, relatively low price are its main advantages.
Penofol
The new material penofol has already shown its best side and gained popularity. It is sold in rolls consisting of a layer of foil and insulation. Most often, the basis is polyethylene foam.
Insulation requirements.
When choosing a material for insulating the floor of a cottage with your own hands, do not look for the cheapest options and be sure to remember that the insulation should be:
- environmentally friendly, safe for health;
- excellent heat insulator;
- durable.
Floor insulation methods
There are several ways to insulate the floor of a country house.
double floor
The bottom layer of rough boards is carefully attached directly to the beams. A “finish” coating is laid on the “rough” structure. 
Wooden logs are installed on the foundation in increments of 0.5–1 m or cut into a log house. Next, the "rough" floor is laid. Free space is filled with thermal insulation. A fairly simple and effective way. 
You can insulate the floor along the logs installed on brick posts. Any insulation: mineral wool, fiberglass, polystyrene or other suitable material. The distance between the finishing floor and the ground increases. The work does not require the experience of a builder and is easily done by hand. With this option, the insulating material is not stressed, which makes the method of warming the wooden floor along the logs ideal.
A country house is a place for the soul where you can relax with your family on the weekend. I want the rest to bring only pleasant emotions, especially in winter and spring, when the sun does not provide enough heat. What to do to make the country house warm and cozy?
Today we will tell you how you can save on heating by insulating a country house, and what materials are better to use for this.
Stages of complex insulation of the house
The house can be insulated in several stages: make the thermal insulation of the facades, take care of the roof and do not forget about the basement if you are going to use it, for example, as a room for training on simulators.
Stage number 1: insulate the facade
There are three ways to make thermal insulation of the facade: from inside the house, outside and inside the wall. The first option is rarely used, since, first of all, this method eats up square meters of living space, which you don’t want to lose at all. In addition, moisture can accumulate between the insulation and the cold wall.
Most often, external insulation of facades is used. Moreover, there is an incredible amount of materials for the implementation of this task on the Russian market today. So there will be no difficulty in searching.
And the most popular today is the use of multilayer structures - intra-wall insulation, when the insulation is placed on the outside of the house, covered with siding or facing bricks.
Stage number 2: roof insulation
Not everyone immediately thinks that it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the roof. A significant part of the heat escapes through it. And with the help of thermal insulation, you can turn the attic area into a full-fledged living space. As you can see, some pluses!
Fire resistance, strength, durability and stability - these requirements must be met by the thermal insulation of the roof. For pitched roofs, more relaxed requirements are imposed. The main thing here is that the so-called "cold bridges" that appear due to shrinkage of the material do not arise. Therefore, in order to insulate such roofs, fiberglass slabs and mats are used, the density of which is from 15 to 30 kg / m³. But if it comes to a flat roof, then special attention is paid to materials.
Mechanical strength is taken into account, in particular, in compression and separation of layers. Extruded polystyrene foam boards are ideal for this. A vapor barrier layer made of materials such as polypropylene or polyethylene will help prevent swelling of the roofing carpet and condensation.
Stage number 3: take care of the heat in the basement
If your basement is not heated, then with the help of insulation you can maintain positive temperatures in it throughout the year. And if you have a heated basement, then its thermal insulation will save you money and reduce heat loss. For these purposes, external thermal insulation of all elements of the building that are in contact with the ground is most often used.
How to insulate a house?
Now that you know your approximate home insulation plan, you need to think about what materials you will use to implement it.
They can be classified according to combustibility, thermal conductivity, shape, appearance, rigidity and structure. Also, materials for insulation are divided into: inorganic - foam glass, cellular heat-insulating concrete, glass wool, etc .; organic - vermiculite, asbestos, perlite, glass, silica, etc.
The leaders among heat-insulating materials in Russia today are considered to be heaters created on the basis of stoneware and fiberglass. They are also called mineral fiber insulation.
Popular types of thermal insulation materials
Let us consider in more detail the types of heat-insulating materials that are most often used in the insulation of country houses.
Mineral wool
This material has a number of positive properties that distinguish it from all others: high sound insulation, thermal insulation, incombustibility, non-hygroscopicity, ease of installation, environmental friendliness, biological and chemical resistance, resistance to temperature deformations.
In addition to the listed qualities, mineral wool, in contact with metals, does not cause their corrosion. With the help of mineral wool insulation, you can create a good climate in your home. This is due to the fact that they repel water and do not allow moisture to penetrate inside the building.
Under the definition of "mineral wool" often fall - slag, basalt and glass wool. In the production of all these types, mineral raw materials are used.
For slag - these are blast-furnace slags - glass is made from limestone, soda and sand, and when creating basalt, gabbrobasalt mineral rocks are used.
Foam concrete and aerated concrete
These materials are often used for the construction of low-rise buildings and as insulation. They are not afraid of dampness and high temperatures, perfectly soundproof and are easy to install. Such heaters are able to withstand up to 7 hours of unilateral exposure to fire. They are easy to handle and store - aerated concrete and foam blocks do not age or rot.
Its porous structure has closed, deaf pores, so the movement of air inside it is simply impossible. It has a low melting point and a high smoke generating capacity.
