Do-it-yourself corner cabinet. Variants and drawings of corner wardrobes for the home. Main work activity

A photo
Many home craftsmen try to bring a piece of their soul into the house by making furniture with their own hands. In order to make a corner cabinet with your own hands, it will take a lot of effort, although financially this event will not be so expensive. Externally, such a cabinet has the shape of a square with a truncated corner.

Diagram of a corner cabinet.

Preparatory work

At the very beginning, you need to decide on the material from which the entire structure will be made. Only 2 options are optimal.

The furniture board is quite simple and pliable in work, besides it is absolutely natural. When choosing, you can immediately familiarize yourself with the type of wood used and choose the thickness. It is desirable to use material without knots, because. it is more reliable, and much easier to work with. There are 2 disadvantages of the material: very high cost and increased time in work. It is the high cost that scares many people away.

Chipboard is much easier to work with, but making a complex pattern or forming a pattern based on partial cutting will not work with your own hands, because. for this you need additional equipment. The color range is huge, but the material is always visible (there is no way to form a wood pattern even with a special desire). The ability to choose the density and thickness also give their advantages, although the frames are more rigid than those of a furniture board. It is from this material that it will be more convenient to make a corner cabinet with your own hands.

Tools for making a corner cabinet.

It is advisable to purchase all internal fittings not only High Quality, but also from the same material and from the same manufacturer. Such a move will allow you to create a corner cabinet that is indistinguishable in quality from a factory one, and when considering it will be almost impossible to point out its home production.

Jigsaw files are tearing strongly on one side or a little on both sides. AT this case it is better to use those that tear from 2 sides, tk. the top can still be closed with a piping.

Necessary tools and materials for work:

jigsaw;
screwdriver;
chipboard;
furniture screws;
aluminum screws;
rubber pads (5 pcs.);
edging for chipboard;
iron;
accessories.

Main work activity

After the preparation of the drawing is completely completed, you can begin to manufacture it.

It is most convenient to make a corner cabinet with an equivalent expansion, because. there is not a single chance to do something wrong. To begin with, a cut is made:

2 segments 900*2610 mm;
2 segments 500*2610 mm;
1 segment 540*2610 mm;
5 segments 380*450 mm;
1 segment 450*2200 mm;
3 segments with 5 corners to fit exactly inside the walls.

Scheme of assembly of a corner cabinet.

When cutting, you cannot make errors even by 2 mm, because. this may compromise stability or give an uneven joint. And after all the cuts are formed, you need to start connecting the segments to each other.

To begin with, 2 corner walls are joined together. For this, furniture screws are used, for which holes are initially made with a drill in increments of 40 cm, after which they are fixed. Or you can use the internal aluminum corners, which are tacked with a similar step. In the latter case, you need to carefully monitor the length of the screws so that it does not exceed 3/4 of the chipboard thickness. The method is selected initially, after which it will no longer change.

Similarly, segments 500 * 2610 mm are docked to them. At this stage, the outlines of the future corner cabinet are already visible, but right now you should be as careful as possible, because. the frame at this stage is at maximum risk.

Now you need to mount the bottom part from below, and at a height of 2-4 mm above the base, in order to achieve maximum stability. The top cover is mounted in the same way, only it is already as close as possible to the top edge (1-2 mm can be left). Now the box already has good strength reserves, but still you should not subject it to loads once again.

An indent of 380 mm is made from any of the front plates and a vertical bar of 450 * 2200 mm is fixed. It is fixed not only to the back, but also to the bottom. A gap remains on top, which it is immediately desirable to close with the remaining 5-coal plate, after which everything is mutually fixed. It is at this stage that the rigidity is brought almost to the maximum, because. the main protective elements are already mounted.

The simplest thing remains - installing shelves and pipes. The pipe is mounted in a larger compartment in the most careful way. Here you should not feel sorry for self-tapping screws, because. at times the burden will be truly enormous. But the shelves can be made in any way of interest, and most often only 2 guides are installed for them, and the plates themselves are not fixed by anything, which is very convenient if you need to quickly lighten the cabinet or completely carefully dismantle it.

Only at the very last stage, hinges are mounted and doors are attached to them.

Additional aspects

After the work on the manufacture of the cabinet is completed, you need to complete the image with the help of a piping. The edging is fixed to all open edges of the chipboard using an ordinary household iron (the polymers at its base melt, after which it is hooked to the wood).

After the corner cabinet is fully assembled, you can make side open shelves, hang a mirror on the door, and refine the design as the soul desires.

The design is strong enough to withstand even the most severe loads.

Instead of struggling with the selection of furniture in a small apartment, it is better to learn how to make a do-it-yourself corner wardrobe. After all, no matter how small the space, the corners in the hallway, in the kitchen, in the rooms, remain empty. A self-made wardrobe will not only solve the problem of placing things, it will elegantly decorate the interior.

Design

There is no exemplary standard design that a corner wardrobe must comply with. It can be built-in (when only doors need to be installed) or cabinet, have various sizes, a different number of sides (triangular, trapezoidal, L- or U-shaped).

AT last years became popular radius closet compartment, which is a furniture design, devoid of sharp corners. Admirers of beauty will certainly appreciate the curved doors sliding on the corresponding profiles. Such a layout allows, saving space, elegantly solve the problem of warehousing. a large number of things.

In Fig.2. corner schemes are No. 1 (concave), No. 2 (convex), No. 5 (a convex column of a massive furniture structure or a free-standing small wardrobe). All other options for radius wardrobes can be obtained by combining the above 6 original types.

Radius is beautiful and functional

Radius cabinet doors move smoothly, almost silently. Similar characteristics are provided by the profile included in the sliding mechanism. Manufacturers offer it from steel or aluminum. We recommend choosing the second option for the following reasons:

increased resistance to damage;
minimizing noise when the door slides.

Price aluminum profile above steel. However, during long-term operation, you will appreciate your choice.

The wall thickness must be at least 0.12 cm. A thicker profile increases the reliability of fastening. High-quality components are produced by Komandor, Absolut, Raumplus, Aristo, and others. If the height of the radius cabinet is higher than 3 m, we recommend using the Raumplus profile.

The doors of the radius wardrobe can be with an upper sliding system or with a lower one. In the first case, the sashes hang on rollers. The movement is carried out along the upper guide. The initial impression of the suspension system is excellent. However, a large load on the upper horizon causes its gradual sagging. The suspension system wears out quickly, without regular Maintenance can suddenly lock the door at the most inopportune moment.

The second sliding system looks preferable for daily household use. The sliding of the sash occurs along the lower guide, the door is attached and fixed along the upper one. load distribution evenly, assembled structure will last longer.

Door elements

Do-it-yourself assembly of corner wardrobes without a diagram reflecting the exact dimensions is impossible. Particular attention must be paid to the moving part of the structure - the doors. You can’t miss anything or take the wrong size, in which case the sashes cannot be used normally.

Before assembling your cabinet, let's take a closer look at the elements of doors with a bottom sliding system:

Vertical side profiles can be symmetrical or asymmetrical. During operation, they are used as handles. Symmetrical profiles look the same on both sides, asymmetric profiles create a difference between the outer and external parties.
Asymmetric rollers located at the top are designed to fix the leaves in the opening.
The upper door frame is necessary for attaching the wheels to it, as well as the subsequent fixation of the structure.
The lower door frame serves to install the lower wheels, ensuring the correct sliding of the leaves.
The internal door filler (wood, glass, mirror) performs a decorative function, gives the entire interior a personality trait.
The seal attached to the vertical side profiles, in addition to softening the impact of the door on the cabinet wall, protects the moving structure from dust.
The door cap is used to secure the side vertical profiles.
Assembly and adjustment screws allow you to change the sliding speed of the wings.
The stopper makes it possible to fix the door, to avoid unintended opening of the wings.

Calculation of cabinet capacity

Any step-by-step instruction gives confidence in the work begun, but without preliminary assessment capacity, the result will be disappointing. Before drawing the blueprints and reading the assembly instructions, decide what you will put on the shelves or hang. Then it will be difficult to move the functional sections, a beautiful outwardly cabinet can become a source of bad mood.

to arrange things according to the season, provide for outerwear at least 2 sections;
when installing recessed fixtures, the upper horizon of the cabinet is brought forward by 12-17 cm;
not only convenient, but also functional when the depth of the shelves is not less than 60 cm;
the width of the shelves more than 65 cm increases the risk of their deflection;
the intershelf distance should be no more than 35 cm;
take the width of the doors from 50 cm, with smaller sizes, the guides fall out;
the number of functional compartments should be proportional to the number of doors;
when designing the dimensions of drawers, pay special attention to the location of the door frames, it will be impossible to get too wide;
doors must be the same width;
depends on the thickness of the chipboard appearance and strength of the cabinet;
the material for the roof, side walls, doors will be chipboard, back wall can be made from fiberboard 3 mm thick.

by the most practical option is the manufacture of a built-in radius wardrobe. This design will easily merge with the walls, hide possible defects, will require less material and time consumption. Housewives will appreciate the absence of gaps between the wall and the cabinet, in which dust constantly accumulates.

Assembling the closet

To install the designed cabinet, you will definitely need:

screwdriver;
a hammer;
square;
drill;
pencil.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the structure, also make sure that you have:

drawings;
furniture board 18 mm;
doors and guides;
"insides" of the cabinet (drawers, hangers, handles);
door hardware, screws, dowels;
side, bottom and top bezels.

Step-by-step order assemblies:

Taking measurements and drawing “on the ground” the installation location of the cabinet (you will need a pencil and a level). Vertical racks are marked on the wall, profiles on the floor and ceiling.
Determination of a place for shelves, drilling holes for dowels, hammering them.
Fastening profiles for shelves to the wall, installing their lower holders.
Marking the mezzanine shelf, its fasteners on self-tapping screws.
Fitting the side wall to the dimensions, its installation.
Installation of the internal "stuffing" (shelves, drawers, etc.).
Installation of pre-prepared false panels, attaching them with a screwdriver to the floor, ceiling, side wall.
Cutting and bending the upper and lower profiles (do not forget to insert the stopper 1 piece per door), attaching them to the false panel with screws.
Assembly of the assembled door. The description of the actions is as follows:

decoration with self-adhesive film (if necessary),
installation of vertical profiles on screws,
door seal installation
fixing the upper and lower door frames,
attaching top and bottom rollers,
inserting the top guide, then the bottom one,
checking the correct sliding, its adjustment (if required) with a hexagon.

Making a wardrobe with your own hands is easier than a table or chair, but somewhat more difficult than a stool or bedside table. If you fully imagine how these pieces of furniture are made, then you can take on the closet. There are 3 options for organizing work:

A simple, unpretentious closet in the utility room. It is preferable for beginners to start with it: there will be benefits, flaws are not in sight, and the acquired skills will be useful in the future;
Cabinet cabinet "the same as everyone else's" in living rooms, but with significantly, 2-2.5 times, lower costs Money. At the cost of their own labor and skill, of course;
At a cost comparable or even less than for a conventional purchased wardrobe, it is possible to make a very solid and durable wardrobe, which are sold as extra or luxury.

Sliding wardrobes are especially popular now: they save a lot of living space, and fittings and door sliding mechanisms for them are affordable. Making a wardrobe with your own hands is more difficult than a hinged one, but still possible for a novice furniture maker. And, as will be discussed further, there is an opportunity to save a lot on fairly expensive door profiles.

A built-in wardrobe gives even more material savings, see fig. But it’s only worth taking it on unequivocally if the apartment has a finished niche or a solid floor is laid on the equalizer. Otherwise, floor leveling work will more than eat up all the savings. The ceiling may also have to be trimmed, but not so accurately and this work is easier.

In any housing there is also a restless corner in which only garbage is collected. It will usefully fill the corner cabinet. Structurally, it is more complicated than usual, and the savings in making it yourself will be less. But this will pay off with convenience, especially in small apartments: typical “corners” in them do not add much ergonomics, and a non-standard custom one will be expensive.

However, the main purpose of this article is not how to snatch here and bite there. There are plenty of guides for the manufacture and self-assembly of cabinets in Runet. Up to instructions like: "We take a drill with our hand ...". If not with teeth, then it would be necessary to clarify: which one - right or left? Because human hands are functionally different. However, the available publications are written quite conscientiously - each about a separate specific product. There are also reviews of a very general plan. But something like a summary of how to develop and make a cabinet for your own conditions and requests is not visible. And the closet is not a table or an armchair, it requires a lot of space and stands on it for a long time or forever. And besides, it is an aesthetically defining piece of furniture.

In this publication we will deal with how to design and assemble a wardrobe on our own specifically for your home; It is this approach that will give the greatest savings in both money and labor. Where the closet should be, how much space there is and what will be in it, you decide for yourself, here exact recommendations from outside are impossible. For the rest, so to speak, home cabinet building is carried out in stages as follows:

Determining the dimensions of the cabinet;
Choosing the type of construction based on your requests and available opportunities;
The choice of the type of doors - hinged, sliding (wardrobe) or folding;
The choice of material and the appropriate assembly technology for it;
The choice of ways to install the filling (shelves, drawers, bars for coat hangers);
cabinet design;
Preparing a place for a closet, if it is built-in;
Preparation of body parts;
Case assembly;
Making and hanging doors;
Manufacturing (acquisition) of filling modules;
Filling the closet.

Dimensions and layout

The general scheme of a conventional case cabinet is shown in fig. on right. Some of the modules, based on the available floor area and ceiling height, may not be, or it will be, say, not 2, but single-leaf. However, the dimensions of the cabinet within certain limits and the principles of its layout must be observed:

Depth transverse (width) - 450-650 mm. Less - the product will turn out to be unstable; more - uncomfortable.
The height of the chiffonier (dress compartment, right wardrobe in the figure) is 1550-1850 mm.
The height of the chest of drawers is 700-750 mm.
Width of drawers and shelves - 400-450 mm.
The depth of the boxes is 250-300 mm.
The distance between the shelves is 300-350 mm.
Vertical layout: drawers below, shelves above them, and niches above all.

The dimensions of drawers and shelves should be kept within the specified limits. At smaller sizes, the cabinet capacity drops sharply with the same overall dimensions, which complicates and increases the cost of the cabinet. With large boxes, it is difficult to operate and keep order in them.

Are mezzanines necessary?

Mezzanines add a lot to the complexity and cost of the cabinet. But to assemble a cabinet without mezzanines, you need at least 7 cm between its roof and ceiling, if you use special tools, and ordinary ones - from 12 cm. and 10-12 mm. Now let's estimate: a small, 1.6x0.6 m in plan, closet. Let's take 7 cm to the ceiling, this will come out a little over 67 cubic meters. dm. That is, the capacity of a pair of bedside tables or a children's playhouse, or cabinets for shoes, which are also needed in the house. In general, it is better not to be lazy and make a closet with mezzanines.

Design

The overall layout of the cabinet allows many options technical implementation; just look at the trade catalogs. In living rooms, as you know, most often they put wall cabinets, pos. 1 in fig. A classic wardrobe with a mirror is more suitable for the bedroom, pos. 2. In the nursery, study or bachelor odnushka - a wardrobe-pencil case, pos. 3. If the apartment has a shallow niche, there is a place for a built-in wardrobe, pos. 4. It is especially useful for household items in places common use, pos. 5: there is always a technician there, but the riser is changed, or at least the revision hatch in it is not opened every year or even every decade.

About walk-through cabinets

About corner cabinets, pos. 6 and 7, we will talk in more detail below, but for now we will linger on walk-through cabinets, pos. 8. In fact, a real walk-through closet is something like a walk-in wardrobe: the doors are front and back, and the contents are placed on the sides of the passage. Once, for the sake of saving space, they were made in the hallways, but with the advent of reliable and affordable sliding doors, they began to consider a wall cabinet with mezzanines above the door as a walk-through.

A walk-through cabinet will not only be appropriate in a long narrow room. He can be key element overall house plans. Let's say you are sketching a future new building. And remember at the same time that not only construction costs, but also property tax and utility bills in the future depend on the size of the house in the plan. Accordingly, you also plan rooms for purely personal use - a kitchen, a bedroom, an office - according to the residual principle, as a result of which they exit in tunnels of an extremely small width for living rooms. This is where the walk-through closet will help out: it will give the room(s) the necessary comfort, and even, perhaps, it will be possible to fence off a dressing room, a closet or a small workshop; a closet deeper than 65 cm is not needed.

About corner cabinets

Wardrobe, slinky outer corner, pos. 1 in Fig., is no different: these are 2 wall cabinets with a rack on the corner. The rack is designed and subsequently assembled last. Structurally, it is not connected to the side sections-wings, as well as the wings to each other.

with cabinets in inner corner the case is different. If they are not single, then the corner section is designed and then assembled first of all, and the wings are already adapted in it, and the last one is the side stand, if any.

Triangular (not necessarily equilateral) cabinet in the corner, pos. 2, this is most often a simple utility locker in that very restless corner, in the bathroom or on the balcony. In a couple of constructions of this kind, we will get acquainted further.

In living rooms, L-shaped corner cabinets are most often placed, pos. 3, or five-wall cabinets, pos. 4. An L-shaped cabinet is a little more complicated than usual: there is no corner section as such, and the wings are also connected by an L-shaped rack in section, pos. 4a. However, the G-cabinet is not very convenient and aesthetic, and the ratio of its capacity to the occupied area is even less than that of a straight wall cabinet.

The five-wall wardrobe is the most spacious of all, especially since very voluminous things can be stored in the corner section, practically without taking too much usable area. It is durable and stable, because. its frame is a rigid spatial structure, pos. 4a. The wings of a corner cabinet, without prejudice to its stability, can be of different depths, therefore, both in front and in area, it can take up one and a half times less space than a wall cabinet of the same capacity, pos. 4b. And if there is a five-wall wardrobe in the bedroom, then in only one corner there are 2 pencil cases with everything necessary in this case, pos. 4c.

However, a five-wall cabinet, firstly, is more laborious and requires more accurate cutting of parts, which is especially important when they are self-manufacturing. Secondly, when designing it (see below), you need to take into account some nuances regarding the doors of the central section.

Take a closer look at how the doors of any cabinet on hidden hinges open. When the door is half open, its rib adjacent to the hinge goes beyond the clearance by a few mm, and the plane of the fully open door again becomes flush with the side wall of the cabinet. If, instead of empty space, there is a wing facade nearby, then the door may rest against it and not open completely. To avoid this, the angle between the facades of the central section and the wing adjacent to the hinges of its door must be at least 135 degrees. Therefore, if you are designing a five-wall with wings of unequal depth, the corner door should open towards the deeper wing. And if the depth of the wings is the same, or a corner with 2 doors, then the corner section should be equilateral.

Finally, cabinets are occasionally made trapezoidal in plan, pos. 5. They are complex, material- and labor-intensive, and their capacity relative to the occupied area is record-breakingly small. Trapeze cabinets are made only when the passage behind the cabinet turns out to be unacceptably narrow and needs to be somehow expanded.

Note: a special case - radius cabinets, see fig. on right. They are not only original and modernly elegant, but also durable, roomy and less obstruct the aisles. But their design is not for everyone, and not even for any mid-level salon.

Plinth or legs?

How to put the cabinet - directly on the floor, on the plinth or thrust bearings (legs)? The floor is the easiest, but it must be perfectly even and durable, for example, a laminate laid on a flowing leveler on a substrate without a lag. The plinth is quite laborious and requires extra boards, but it gives the cabinet strength. The bottom of the cabinet on bearings, so that it does not sink, must be thick and durable, which can cost more than the material for the base. Therefore, it is recommended to make a cupboard on thrust bearings only in the kitchen, food pantry, etc. rooms where, as they said in the old days, worldly backbones - cockroaches, mice can start up. It is very difficult to survive them from under the basement.

What to be the doors

If the room where the cabinet will go is spacious enough, then the best option its doors are hinged. They are simpler, cheaper and more reliable than sliding ones. There is only one subtlety here: take hidden hinges not mortise, as in factory cabinets, but overhead ones, see fig. In production, they are less technologically advanced and cost-effective, because. a backing bar is required, but it is much stronger than mortise ones and it is not necessary to select holes in the side walls with a cutter.

However, not everyone lives in mansions, so sliding wardrobe doors are the most common. In general, they open less often than interior ones, drafts do not slam them, and only a cone with a lamb goes through the closet into the wall, which does not care what kind of doors there are and whether they exist at all. Therefore, cabinet doors can be made lighter, and the presence of a threshold does not affect the ease of use of the cabinet.

There are dozens of manufacturers of sliding door mechanisms, each producing several systems and trying to bring something new to the products so that they can push their elbows on the market. In the assembly instructions they write what exactly this product is good for, and as a rule, they do not lie. But comments, here, they say, our product is more suitable there, and if there, then it’s better to contact competitors, of course, don’t wait. However, simple general rules it is possible to make a choice of the cabinet door mechanism, especially since there are no cardinal differences in quality between them.

First of all, for a cabinet door, you do not need to take expensive mechanisms with a free lower edge of the door sliding in a shoe or along a comb, see fig. These suspension systems are designed for heavy interior doors and require leveling the ceiling. In addition, the bottom door leaf in the first case, it is worn out; in the second it is prone to breakdowns. Protective pads / gutters are sold optionally and the prices are, to put it mildly, strange. Other mechanisms are suitable for the cabinet, and here the choice depends on the door.

Just doors

If the doors are solid wood or chipboard, and the cabinet is on the plinth, then the frameless sliding mechanism is more suitable, because. it is cheaper and the installation of doors with it is easier. The cheapest of these is with an upper suspension (upper run, upper rail) pos. And in fig. Until recently, they were considered unreliable: from a push, the doors on the top course fell inward. But literally over the past 2-3 years, the top course has been seriously improved and the most flimsy of the current ones can withstand a blow to the facade from 45 kgf. This is stronger than the splash of a street hooligan or the push of the fifth point of an overweight, tipsy guest.

For the same doors in a built-in wardrobe, a system with bottom support(lower rail), pos. B. Here, first, it is better to take a system with separate guides (tracks), pos. B1. Twin tracks require installation precision that is difficult to achieve at home and are designed for boards of a strictly defined thickness. This makes cabinet design more difficult and material overruns can outweigh the savings from twin tracks.

Further, frameless doors at 4 points of force (tight) contact with the tracks are prone to jamming, so the carriages of the upper rollers (rollers) must be installed quadruple self-aligning, pos. B2. But not any for any door.

Threaded fasteners sit tighter in wood if they are wrapped along the grain rather than across them. In chipboard, on the contrary, self-tapping screws / confirmations are more reliably wrapped in a face, and not in an end. Therefore, wooden doors are hung on end rollers, as in pos. B2. If the doors are made of laminated chipboard, then the rollers must be taken on trunnions, i.e. L- or U-shaped brackets, like the lower rollers in pos. BUT.

Note: for a door on end rollers, a decorative overlay covering the rollers and the upper track is desirable. But in the hallway, it can be superfluous - the slot at the top will provide ventilation for the closet with wet outerwear.

And, finally, the lower rollers must be, firstly, height-adjustable, taking into account not only the unevenness of the floor, but also the drying out of the door leaf. Secondly, the lower rollers, especially if the cabinet goes to the hallway, are needed with a 2-coordinate support-thrust surface, i.e. with a flange, like a railway wheel, pos. B3, and steel rubberized; in extreme cases - propylene. Why? The flanged rollers themselves push the dirt out of the groove of the track.

glass-mirror

For a glass / mirror door, the only well-proven option in practice is a frame door with a bottom rail made of special profiles, pos. Q. How to assemble it is described in detail in the company's instructions and in RuNet, but something else needs to be paid attention to.

First, make sure that the profile you like is among the recommended ones in the mechanics specification. As a rule, there are no problems here, the production of accessories for glass doors well developed.

Second, installation of a mirror / glass, pos. IN 1. It is necessary to use only and only glass of the recommended thickness with complete seals. It enters them rather tightly, but if it gets up easily, then it will not be difficult for him to fall out later. To facilitate the framing of glass (profiles are put on it), you need:

Work on a flat, smooth surface covered with a dense, clean cloth without scars / seams or newspapers in several layers. Pros frame mirrors on foam boards.
Order mirror/glass with rounding (licking) of ribs. You can “lick off” the ribs yourself with a richly moistened emery bar, after first running a wet cloth along the edge of the glass. It is not necessary to rub until a visible chamfer appears; it is enough to “shirk” 2-3 times with light pressure so that the rib does not bite the seal.
Before installing the profile, run along the edges of the glass with a clean rag slightly moistened with any gel detergent for dishes. Soapy solution is somewhat worse, it dries quickly.
It is necessary to upset (push) the profile onto the glass, tapping it evenly along the length rubber mallet. To shove, as they say, resting on the navel, is unacceptable.

Third, the installation and finishing of the upper rollers (“Asymmetric roller” in the figure). That the asymmetry should be on the canvas in one direction, and for the outer and inner wings in different sides, clear. But, pay attention to the inset at the top right: the same screw holds both the frame sections and the roller. Moreover, the screw is self-tapping, it is wrapped once. Assembly of the frame “on empty” without a mirror, and its bulkhead after fitting - gross mistake amateurs. That's why:

The top assembly screws are initially underturned by 3-4 mm.
The mounting whiskers of the rollers are inserted under the screw heads and the screws are tightened tightly, but not tight: if the roller is pulled out with force, it should “creep out” from under the screw.
They put the door, check the course, adjust the lower rollers.
In place, the screws of the upper rollers are tightened to failure.

glass tree

See what's on the left in Fig. And on the right - how it was done. Not bad, right? This door has not been tested on a suspension, but judging by what it has endured over more than 27 years of operation, it will withstand. FROM acrylic glass, which was then a rare expensive curiosity, will stand for sure. The depth of the groove under the glass is from 3 of its thickness.

The secret, firstly, is in aquarium silicone. It is much more expensive than a construction one, but 20 ml was more than enough for a couple of doors. But its strength is simply monstrous. Take a look at least at a 200-liter aquarium and imagine what kind of pressure there is from the inside. And the glass is glued just to the end. Secondly, here the long edges of the glass are securely covered. Breaking glass with a direct blow is not so easy.

Note: before mounting the cabinet doors, of course, it is necessary to check and set the squareness of the opening. It is inconvenient to use a tape measure, because this is not a cast-off of the foundation that is open on all sides. A pair of slats with pointed ends, fastened with rubber bands, will help out, see fig. At the first measurement, they make a risk with a pencil (pos. 1), and the divergence of its halves on the second will accurately show the difference in the diagonals (pos. 2).

Finally, at pos. G - a wardrobe with book doors. The bottom line is that the area withdrawn for opening the doors, according to the totality of ergonomic indicators, depends on the removal open door non-linear. Therefore, a book door will take only 1/4 of the floor area compared to hinged door the same width, and its fittings are cheaper than for a sliding door, and never stick.

Material

What is the closet made of? There are 3 options: chipboard, solid wood (ready-made furniture panels) and measured lumber, i.e. just boards. Let's compare them in terms of cost, complexity and work, strength, durability and aesthetics. We take into account that the overall strength of wood is less than laminated chipboard, so we take the thickness of wooden parts not 16, but from 24 mm, and unplaned blanks - from 30 mm; 3 mm from each plate will go to planing.

chipboard

About edges

The details of the cabinet made of laminated chipboard need to be trimmed (edging). Since they do not crawl along their edges with elbows, cabinets are edged with a flat melamine self-adhesive edge, 2 mm front edges and 0.4 mm invisible, see fig. on right. Melamine is a heat-resistant material, and you can hem it at home with a hot iron through a clean, thin cloth or, better, fluoroplastic film. But first you need to find out what will cost less: edging along with cutting in a furniture company or an independent edge purchased at retail in small quantities.

Calculation

"Lives" laminated chipboard up to 25-30 years. Then the binder begins to collapse, swell, and the ends of the parts take on the appearance of something like that in Fig. left. A sheet of laminated chipboard 2750x1850x16 mm (5 sq. M and 0.08 cubic meters) of the 1st grade glossy will cost from 4000 rubles; 2 sheets are needed for a 2-door cabinet. Chipboard textured without gloss of the 2nd grade can be found from 1100 rubles / sheet, but its phenol emission class will be from E2, which is unacceptable for residential premises.

Cutting sheets according to the drawing will cost about 500 rubles, and about 1000 more for edging parts. We do not count the fittings, they are the same for any cabinet. Total on chipboard for a closet for 20 years “like everyone else”, about 9500 rubles. Let's add another 200 (this is very divine) for confirmations with stubs, because for chipboard, this is the only acceptable option for assemblies, see below. There are about 10 thousand in total.

array

Finished furniture panels you will need the same 5 sq. m, because they are produced in planed thickness from 18 mm. Approximate prices for a square shield 600 mm wide:

Knotty pine 28 mm (from which, after varnishing with tinted varnish, very beautiful furniture is obtained) - approx. 1850 rub/sq. m, i.e. OK. 9250 rub. on the closet.

Straight-layer pine - 1950 rubles / sq. m and 9750 rubles. respectively.

Oak of the same dimensions with a thickness of 20 mm (perhaps, it is durable) - 7500 rubles / sq. m and 37,500 rubles. resp.

Fasteners will take up to 200 rubles, it is wooden, see below. Still ok. 1500 rub. - on varnish and glue. And the same amount as for chipboard - for cutting, because. The material is expensive and hard to learn from.

It can already be concluded that a do-it-yourself cabinet from an array should only be made from pine: an array of larch and birch is not much cheaper than oak, and beech, ash, walnut and maple are more expensive. However, solid pine cabinets also last 100-200 years or more.

Board

Edged boards on the cabinet will go approximately (30/16) x0.08 \u003d 0.15 cubic meters. m. Let's give another margin for amateur processing and take 0.25 cubic meters. m. Pine will cost approx. 5000 rub./cu. m; oak and beech - approx. 24,000 rubles/cubic meters m. on the wardrobe - approx. 1250 and 6000 rubles. respectively; on fasteners, varnish and glue - as before. case.

There is another argument in favor of natural wood. Take a look at fig. It is possible to make such doors from laminated chipboard and self-adhesive only in a thermal vacuum chamber, i.e. in production. And it’s difficult from wood, but it’s possible at home, using a hand router with a shaped cutter, there is an emphasis on it. Curves are derived by applying a template to the corresponding edge of the workpiece. You can also practice cutting / simple carving by buying an extra board, not ruinous. To develop working skills, cheap pine or any wooden trimmings will go.

However, a homemade cabinet made of planks is long and difficult to make. First, the purchased lumber must be kept outdoors under a canopy from autumn to summer. It will be a complete analogue of industrial preparation by steaming up to 100% humidity, followed by drying with superheated steam. Next, the boards will need to be dried in a warm, dry room again until autumn: the cabinet is not a stool, the moisture content of the wood is needed up to 6%.

Then the boards will need to be rallied with the boards, like a countertop dining table, using a homemade wyma. They rally on a smooth fugue, but not plywood, but of the same tree, or on dowels, see below.

Note: boards for furniture must be purchased absolutely benign, without the slightest trace of rot and mold. Boards bleached with wood restorers are not suitable.

Subtotal by material

In general, if you want to make at least some kind of closet in a couple of weekends, until you have enough money for good purchased furniture, then the uncontested option is chipboard on confirmations. If you intend to pass on the memory of yourself to your children and grandchildren in the form of home-made furniture (which by that time may become valuable antiques), then you should also consider the option of a wooden cabinet. Moreover, a plank made of precious wood will cost no more than a homemade product on hastily from chipboard.

Connections

How to connect cabinet parts? Eccentrics, pos. 1 in Fig., we sweep aside immediately. These are connections of inexpensive quick-assembly/collapsible furniture; simply - consumer goods: brought-blinded / inserted-twisted-money took-washed away.

Thread profile and head configuration of confirmations, pos. 2, specially designed for chipboard; the tree on confirmations keeps worse, and the chipboard on the “tree on tree” joints, see below, is generally very bad. Please note that, apart from furniture confirmers with a hexagon head, there are plumbing, for plastic, with a cross slot. They are not interchangeable!

Under confirmations you need a special drill, below at pos. 2, for each standard size of these hardware - its own. Holes for confirmations must be drilled along the conductor, pos. 3, otherwise the probability of splitting one of the boards during assembly is very high. Road conductor, for one-time work it is better to rent it.

It is also desirable to drill holes in the dowel connection along the conductor, pos. 4, this is the best way to assemble wooden furniture. The fact is that the lignin of dowels and boards gradually, as it were, is welded into a single mass, and the connection on the dowels gains strength over time. Furniture restorers are well aware of this phenomenon.

Note: if the furniture is of a kind that can immediately experience extreme loads (say, a bed), then the dowels are placed with wedging. But we will leave the description of this technology until an appropriate occasion.

Ready-made dowels and sticks-blanks for them different sizes are on sale and are inexpensive. You need to take them of the same kind as the boards to be joined, but harder: for pine - larch dowels, for hardwood furniture - oak. Oak is harvested on oak dowels.

also in a wide range dowels (lamellas) are sold for rallying boards from boards, pos. 5. The rules for choosing keys are the same as for dowels. As for the box connection pos. 6, then you need to learn how to make it if you have conceived a real wooden cabinet for centuries. In other cases, you can do it easier, see below about filling, especially since the boxes are like removable modules, and you can then redo it.

About drywall cabinets

Drywall (GKL) is widely used in construction. But this is a finishing material, not a structural one. Therefore, thinking about the GKL closet, keep in mind:

It will require a complex frame of special C- and U-profiles, pos. 1 in the fig., and a lot of fasteners.

This cabinet cannot be moved.

To hang doors, you will have to make a wooden frame on the facade, because. in the profiles, the hinges do not hold and the entire frame immediately leads from the use of the doors.

Drywall is easily scratched and crumbled, so heavy, hard and sharp objects should not be placed on the shelves.

In fact, a drywall cabinet is used in 2 cases. The first is a radius rack in a room with curved walls, pos. 2, because it is quite possible to make parts bent in one plane from gypsum boards at home. What, however, cannot be said about radius doors, without which a closet is not a closet.

The second one is simple corner cabinet for household items, pos. 3. For this, GKL trimmings left over from false ceiling etc. With the indicated dimensions, a complex frame is not needed, but if there are doors, then the facade frame is still required.

Filling

boxes

The “real” drawer of the cabinet is arranged, as in the bedside table, see Fig., Only the dimensions are different. But at first, in order not to delay the work, it is better to assemble the boxes of drawers on confirmations from chipboard, simple polished, without texture, and paint. The decorative facade can then be rearranged to the “correct” box of the same size. Or maybe leave it as it is: a thick, durable bottom will allow the use of lower guides with a high bearing capacity.

The cabinet drawers are always used more intensively and loaded more than in the nightstand; they often put something / look for something in the depths. Therefore, putting them on homemade wooden rails is not worth it. By the way, the first attempts to make full extension guides for cabinet drawers date back to the 15th century. That's how jamming and distortions got furniture makers even then.

Drawer guides are divided into bottom and side, depending on the method of attachment to the box. But this division is very conditional, because. both of them ultimately hold on to the walls / partitions of the cabinet, which determines the strength of the suspension as a whole. When choosing guides, more attention should be paid to the technological gaps on the sides and between the boxes: the space “eaten” by them significantly affects the capacity and cost of the product.

For the drawers of the kitchen cabinet, which, however, needs a separate discussion, you need the lower guides of the metabox type or their analogues. The weakest of them are kept at full take-out from 20 kg, and there are models for 50-70, at least throw a bag of potatoes into a box. But metaboxes are by no means cheap, but by default they are equipped with closers, i.e. the extended box itself completely calls back from a light push by hand.

For ordinary drawers, the usual lower roller guides will fit, as, say, for a keyboard board computer desk, at the top in Fig. Their closer works quite rough and a heavy box doesn't always fully close, but they are cheap and hold up to 12-15 kg at full extension, including the weight of the box.

Boxes for books, tools, etc. it is better to put on Kulkov's ball guides, below in the same place. They are relatively inexpensive, practically eternal (there are no plastic parts), do not require technical gaps at the top and bottom, and hold up to 20 kg at full extension. There is only one drawback: there is no closer.

Shelves

You can’t say much about the shelves: a board is like a board. Thickness from 16 mm for laminated chipboard, from 24 mm for pine, from 18 mm for oak. Chipboard is closed “on the face” with a 2 mm edge, and on the sides and back - 0.4 mm, which must be taken into account when designing. It is not necessary to neglect the edging so that the board does not crumble and dust. But, depending on the general tone of the finish, instead of edging, you can take polished chipboard, prime and paint.

There are also only 3 tricks in the shelf holders. First, do not take metal from aluminum-magnesium alloy, but plastic from PVC or polyethylene. The first is fragile, the second is weak. The second - take it with self-tapping screws. Inserts on smooth pins will break out of their sockets over time. And the third - for an unpretentious utility cabinet, very strong and reliable shelf holders are obtained from plinth scraps, see fig.

Barbell

Now in vogue so-called. end bars for hangers, see fig. But, frankly, they are for inveterate neat people: summer blouses are here, shirts are there, and pants-skirts are there and nowhere else. The end rods do not increase the capacity of the cabinet, only it is worse to see where it hangs. And take any ordinary longitudinal rods to your taste and pocket, there are no unusable ones for sale.

Project

Independent design of a cabinet and furniture in general these days is not very difficult: there are comfortable computer programs. Of the Russian speakers, PRO100 and Bazis-Mebelshchik are popular in free distribution. Both are quite powerful and functional, but the first is more suitable for the virtual arrangement of furniture in the interior, and the second for the detailed design of individual products.

Both softwares come with training videos, they are available in RuNet and separately. But, as with any new software, general ambiguities can also arise from experienced users. Namely: where to start, how to go where and where to come. So far, no one has come up with a uniquely linear system of bookmarks with tools / options. And this is hardly possible for creatures with an intelligence higher than that of a fire pump. For Bazis-Mebelshchik, the general cabinet design instruction looks like this:

Enter dimensions cabinet according to on-site measurements, this is the most critical stage;

We set the dimensions of the plinth, bottom and roof;

We assemble the back wall (by default, fiberboard) with stiffeners (sideboards, by default, chipboard);

Compose internal partitions, vertical and horizontal, according to the division of the cabinet into sections. What and how much - you decide, not the program;

We do box filling. Shelves, rods, baskets Bazis-Mebelshchik does not automatically put, because. they are mounted in finished closet local;

We enter the dimensions of the cabinet doors, but they need to be designed separately;

Optionally add mezzanines and open side racks;

We carry the edges and fittings in places;

We send drawings and specifications for printing with the exact dimensions of parts: they are exactly what we need in order to purchase, order, saw, drill, cut.

Assembly

The manufacture of individual modules was discussed above in the course of the presentation, so let's move on to how to put it all together. The assembly of a cabinet from laminated chipboard on confirmations is technologically not difficult and is carried out in the following order:

In place they try on the bottom and sidewalls: was there an error when measuring the dimensions, pos. 1 in the figure;

They assemble the basement box and install internal partitions, because. they are fastened through the bottom, pos. 2;

In place (carry the workpiece carefully!) Place the sidewalls so that the base fits exactly on the floor, pos. 3;

They put up a roof;

The cabinet is moved aside, it is already strong enough, and the back wall is sewn up;

Slide the cabinet into place and mount the filling;

They take out boxes, shelves, a barbell (if it is in pockets, and not fixed tightly), baskets, etc.;

Install doors;

Collect and put mezzanines with racks, if any.

The assembly of a wooden cabinet on dowels is different in that the internal partitions are placed after the sidewalls, because. otherwise, they may break when moving the workpiece. And also by the fact that there is enough technical stock under the ceiling for a cabinet without mezzanines: dowel protrusion + roof thickness + (10-12) mm.

Special cases

The first is the hallway. A wardrobe is needed in it, firstly, it is small in width, English halls are not in use with us. It is also desirable to combine it with a hanger, then you will need a sliding single-door wardrobe, see fig. on the right, because clothes will sometimes be hung in it damp and in a deaf box it will soak. It also requires more shelves for gloves, hats, scarves, summer clothes, and, of course, shoes. But there may be no boxes at all.

Schemes of cabinets in the hallway, hinged and sliding, are shown in fig. The first is designed for a family of 2-3 people; the second is a bachelor. The depth of the first is determined based on the minimum allowable passage width of 900 mm. If you want to make it sliding, you need to add 170-220 mm to it, depending on the chosen door suspension system.

The second is a balcony. It’s not worth putting a closet there, arranged in a room-like way: it will block a lot of light and dust collectors will form, see fig. On the balcony you need a cabinet mainly from horizontal modules, or an unequal corner cabinet.

A drawing of a cabinet, suitable for extremely narrow Khrushchev balconies, is shown on the left in the figure, and a corner one on the right in the same place. The latter still will not block the evacuation hatch, because. is placed between fire escape and a wall that would otherwise uselessly take up space.

Finally

Let's hope that this publication at least clarified to you in detail how to make a cabinet yourself. And as an example of the general progress of work on the manufacture of a wardrobe, we offer a video. Otherwise - good luck, patience, ingenuity, accuracy!

Video: do-it-yourself wardrobe assembly

The closet plays an important role in any interior. It is not surprising that stringent requirements are imposed on it: not to take up too much space, to be roomy, to have a sufficient number of shelves and drawers. Models on the market do not always fully satisfy individual wishes.

It can be even more difficult for owners of non-standard layout apartments to choose an option that fits into the room. In this case, you can order a cabinet from specialists who will take into account all the wishes for the design and internal content.

Unfortunately, this option is not for everyone. Then best solution problems will be the use of one's own hands and ingenuity, because it is not difficult to assemble a wardrobe on your own!

Preparatory stage

Each room has its own type of construction, so you should familiarize yourself with the main ones.

Cabinet with a closed facade - a direct model with hinged doors. To open them, you need to provide extra space, do not forget about this if you are making a closet for the hallway.

The cabinet with an open facade has no doors, and its contents are in plain sight. It imposes certain requirements on the order.

Closet doors installed on rail mechanism and open, moving apart. There are designs with an upper and lower rail, which one to choose is a matter of taste.

Ideal design for a built-in wardrobe

The corner cabinet fills the corner. Suitable for a room of any size, if it is square or close to it.

Having chosen a suitable design, you can begin to create a project for the future cabinet. Since this piece of furniture has been serving for more than one year, it is worth considering what functionality may be required of it. It is better to build a drawing on whatman paper, entering all measurements there.

Decide on the location and dimensions of the cabinet. If a niche is provided in the room, it is ideal, but if it is not possible to build it in, choose a place where neither he nor he will interfere with anything.

Think over the internal content: the location and number of shelves and drawers, their sizes, additional elements like mezzanines or interior lighting.

Do not forget about the choice of exterior finishes, decorations. The colors "oak", "alder", "beech" are the most popular today. And you can choose wood with an interesting pattern and leave your native pattern. Get creative, decorate the doors with a carved pattern.

materials

The material can be natural wood, plywood, MDF or chipboard - all of which are used by furniture manufacturers.

The tree is environmentally friendly, does not require additional decorations, it is convenient to use. wooden cabinet will last more than one year and will look solid and impressive. Perfect Choice for the interior in a classic style.

Plywood is glued sheets of veneer (birch or trees are used). conifers). This cheap one practical material suitable for the manufacture of almost any furniture. It is best to choose laminated plywood (FOF brand).

Chipboard ( chipboard) is the cheapest and most common option. Collecting own closet, usually use it. Short-lived.

A self-adhesive melamine film is also useful for processing the side faces.

The rod diameter must be at least 22 mm. The easiest way is to buy it in a specialized store. You can also buy pens there.

Tools

Ruler, tape measure, pencil and others for taking measurements and building a drawing.
Level.
Electric jigsaw or hacksaw for cutting.
Screwdriver or drill and screwdriver.
Glue.
Ratchet key.
Iron for gluing edging film.
Accessories. Each door opening mechanism has its own set.
Confirmations for cabinet from chipboard is better buy a length of 7 cm with a diameter of 0.5 cm.

Progress

First of all, measurements are taken and a drawing of the future cabinet is built. The final result depends on a correctly drawn up drawing, so approach it with all seriousness.

Making cabinet doors with your own hands is not difficult, the main thing is to correctly calculate the dimensions. If its vertical height is less than the height of the opening, the door will not completely close it, and if more, it will not fit. Finding horizontal dimension, we must not forget about the fasteners: they will add a few millimeters to it. The width of the doors should be ~3 mm less than the opening.

Now you need to mark the placement of the mounting bolts on the sawn parts and drill all the holes.

The assembly begins with the installation of the bottom and attaching the walls to it. Make sure that assembled cabinet fits into the allotted space and other furniture will not interfere with the opening of the doors. If you are making a wardrobe, guides are installed at this stage.

The location of drawers and shelves is outlined, shelf holders and guides are installed. They must be strictly parallel so that they do not skew.

It's time for the installation upper shelves and roofs. A gap of ~ 7 cm is left between the ceiling and the roof for the installation of confirmations. Fasteners are made by hand, finally tightened with a ratchet.

The side shelves are attached to 4 confirmations (two on each side), in some cases dowels (small wooden cylinders) are used. One end of the dowel is inserted into the wall of the cabinet, a shelf is put on the other.

The last step is to install the doors. Before installation, attach the handles with an outward bend. For sliding doors is especially important correct installation mechanism. Don't rush, be careful.

It's time to start final touches. Treat the cuts with a decorative film, decorate the facade. Put mirrors, interior lighting and other elements.

Tricks and nuances

Build on existing cabinet layouts when designing your own.

A corner cabinet requires more care in design and assembly than a straight one, so it may be too complicated for an inexperienced person.

If you do not have enough experience, it is better to entrust the cutting of parts to the master. His hand will not tremble, and the cuts will be even and neat.

In order not to get a piece smaller than necessary, consider the thickness of the saw. The wall thickness must be at least 18 mm. Otherwise, the strength of the structure will be insufficient.

When working on the drawing, pay attention to the curvature of the floor. If the floor is not level, gaps may appear between the doors. To avoid this, adjust the mounting canopies for the swing mechanism, and change the height of the wheels for the sliding mechanism.

Guides for sliding doors should be parallel. Be very careful when marking and installing guides for drawers and shelves.

Drill holes for confirmations symmetrically. Use a drill of the correct size. The exact number of confirmations depends on the number of parts. Confirmates are covered with plugs to match the color of the structure.

Installation of the mirror begins with the installation of a seal around the perimeter. The film is glued to the slices of chipboard with an iron. Smooth it with a cloth, pressing it as tightly as possible. The edges can be trimmed with a regular knife.

Study photos of handmade cabinets: you will get a boost of inspiration and mark interesting ideas for yourself.

We hope our tips have helped answer the question of how to make a wardrobe with your own hands.

DIY cabinet photo

Corner kitchen cabinets are quite popular furnishings. They do not take up too much space due to the unique location. Corner cabinets can be made at home from various materials. Of course, you will be able to cope with the task, doing as indicated in the instructions below.

To the positive aspects that distinguish the corner wall cabinet for the kitchen include:

increase the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe room due to the competent placement of furniture. Installation is carried out in places where it is difficult to install other options;
high capacity and functionality. At first glance, it may seem that the corner floor cabinets are not so large, however, inside them you can install a variety of shelves and equip compartments for organized storage products and utensils;
the possibility of choosing the optimal dimensions, since floor cabinets are diverse in their dimensions. Almost every person is able to understand how to assemble comfortable cabinets in the kitchen, giving them the necessary parameters;
a variety of techniques that can be used to decorate faceplates. If desired, the kitchen floor cabinet can be decorated with glass inserts or patterns. This will give the finished product more appeal. However, the kitchens of Leroy Merlin already look aesthetically pleasing and do not require additions;
the possibility of combining with other items in the kitchen.

The main features of the corner models

The list of the most important differences includes:

doors are not required. Upper cabinet open type is great for storing beautiful crockery sets;
variety of forms. The design can be triangular, L-shaped and even trapezoidal (by the way, triangular variations are very widespread in our time). The choice of suitable varieties depends on the people who will use the lockers and their preferences;
the lower part of the structure, located on the floor, is often used to create sinks. The sink placed on top will be convenient to use;
the possibility of embedding large types of household appliances for its more efficient operation is provided;
different methods are used to decorate the facade. The most common options are drawing a pattern on wall cabinets or upholstery with some material;
the lower cabinet for washing is often equipped with legs, which makes it easier to clean the room;
the upper corner cabinet can be equipped with carousel shelves to store dishes and other accessories there.

Dimensions of the corner kitchen cabinet

The dimensions of furniture for equipping the kitchen can vary widely. If they are included in kitchen set, then have the optimal dimensions for combining with other components of the set. If the cabinet is selected separately or constructed independently, then it must be suitable for other elements.

It is very important for a person who is going to create a corner kitchen cabinet with his own hands to determine the size of the future product. They spill depending on whether new item the interior to be located on the floor or on the wall.

The hanging cabinet of the corner type has typical dimensions. The width is 15-80 cm, moreover, this parameter must correspond to the shape of the cabinet and its width. The standard depth is 35 cm, however, the calculation must take into account the depth of the boxes that will be located below. It is recommended to carry out the installation of the finished product at a distance of 50 cm from the pedestals below. It - standard sizes any wall cabinet. This should be known to those people who are interested in how to calculate corner option without making a mistake.

If we are talking about how to create outdoor furniture, then it will have other standard sizes. They need to be taken into account when planning to make a kitchen drawing. For a compact space better fit cabinet depth of 50 cm, no more. The typical height is 85 cm (however, this can be varied according to individual cases). The width can be 15-80 cm, and the optimal indicator is 60 cm.

As a rule, the lower element is installed after the installation of the upper one has been completely completed. The owner has the right to choose furniture with or without legs.

Corner cabinet for sink

A sink cabinet is a very common option. Its dimensions can vary widely, as they depend on the washing parameters. You also need to take into account the way in which the structure will be fixed. For such cabinets, standard dimensions are calculated in individually. The width can be more than 60 cm, and the depth can reach 80 cm (the downside is that it will be very difficult to use such an interior element). As a rule, for large products choose a pair of facades. However, if this is necessary, assemble models with one door.

Taking measurements and drawings

The assembly of the corner cabinet cannot be started without creating a diagram. In turn, to perform drawing work, you need to take measurements, and then create a kitchen diagram so as not to make a mistake. When performing these works, you need to take into account some of the nuances:

wall thickness should be chosen, taking into account what objects will be placed on them. It is important to display on the diagram whether the finished structure will accommodate household appliances or not. The thickness of typical shelves is 18 mm. If you plan to store something heavy on them, it is better to choose blanks with a thickness of 21 mm or more;
the depth of the underlaying products should not be more than 40 cm;
you should not place the hanging cabinet too low if there is a stove directly below it, as the material will deteriorate under the influence of elevated temperature.

According to the standards, the size of the corner cabinet is 60x60 cm, while the front panel is 42 cm wide and 30 cm deep. corner kitchen- this is great option for small apartments where it is difficult to implement another arrangement option. Look at the photos presented on our website to find the perfect option.

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How to make a corner cabinet in the kitchen?

Select suitable material and buy it at the right amount. Calculating the volume of purchases is very simple if you follow the previously drawn up scheme.
Prepare the necessary tools for the job. Their list includes: fasteners, suspensions, sealing compound, furniture screed, drill, sandpaper, accessories and some other devices. It all depends on what model is planned to be created.
Prepare the main details for the future locker. It is most convenient to cut them out of solid slabs. Be extremely careful when doing this work, use electric tools to get the best result. Alternatively, you can contact a specialized company that will make blanks at a professional level.
Make through holes to insert dowels into them and fasten individual elements included in the furniture. Lubricate the choppers with adhesive to increase the reliability of the structure.
Check the evenness of individual parts of the structure using a level.
Screw the confirmations into the dowels using a hex key for this purpose.
Install the legs and adjust the height. If the design does not include legs, this step can be skipped.
Make holes in the side elements, place cross-shaped fasteners under the sashes in them.
On the walls located on the sides, attach elements for the rail, due to which the boxes will roll out. Fasten the rails.
Attach the back wall.
Fix the hardware.

Diagram of a corner cabinet Drawing of a corner cabinet

The presented instructions will help each person understand how to make a corner cabinet in the kitchen with their own hands, a variety of diagrams and drawings presented here will simplify the solution of this task. If you do all the work correctly, you will enjoy the cabinet made in the corner for a long time.