Warm floor on the lags. Warm water floors on a wooden floor: features of laying the system on a wooden base. Assessment of the condition of wooden structures. Pre-insulation

Historians claim that the first warm floor appeared in Ancient Rome True, then it was not as perfect as it can be now. Taking the idea as a basis, modern designers have brought it to perfection. The installation of the "warm floor" system is a well-established and repeatedly tested system. To implement it, you just need to follow the instructions correctly. True, there are some features of installation, connection and operation of the system when non-standard conditions. The latter include the device of a warm water floor according to wooden lags.

Wooden house and underfloor heating

The presence of the "warm floor" system will provide any, including wooden room uniform heating, the likely absence of batteries and, of course, the ability to move around the floor in any weather outside the window, even barefoot, even crawling (which is more relevant for young children).

A warm floor, where the heat carrier is water, which, when heated, moves along the pipes laid under the top coating, is called a water heated floor. Theoretically, pipes should be laid on any flat surface, having previously covered it with a heat reflector, so that the latter goes exclusively up.

If it becomes necessary to carry out the construction of this system on wooden logs, then you need to know the following:

1. It is impossible to fill with a traditional screed, the height of which is about 5 centimeters, a structure based on wooden logs. Wood can't support the weight of concrete.
2. To strengthen the base of the “warm floor” system, namely the log, you need to lay sheets of thin metal on top of them (2 mm thick will be enough). In this case, the metal will also serve as a heat reflector.
3. If there is such an opportunity, in order to make a warm floor not only warm, but also economical, it will be necessary to lay each turn of the pipe through which hot water should circulate directly into the logs. In this case, you will still have to use heat reflectors and insulating materials.

When drawing up a diagram, it is worth considering the floor area, the height of the ceilings, and also how the system will heat up.

Thermal calculations

The higher the screed, the less you need to make the distance between the turns of the heating pipes in the floor. Another factor to consider is heat loss. Their value depends on

• the location of the house relative to the light,
• number of windows and their size,
• insulation bearing walls and roofs.

Naturally, the calculation of a warm floor should take into account the intensity of operation wooden house (suburban option or a full life) and, of course, climatic conditions in which this house is located.

If the building is old, then before starting heating, it is better to test the house for a fortress, and at the same time cracks / drafts, and then carry out maximum insulation. If the house is being built "from scratch", then energy saving issues need to be addressed immediately during construction.

From that old house or new and you need to choose options for water floor heating.

Choose the right option

How to mount a warm floor over a log can be determined only after testing them. If lags

• installed on a concrete base
• strong enough on their own.
• and between them there is a distance in which a pipe for water heating of the floor will fit,

then you can follow the option, which we denote by the number 1.

If the lags

• located close to each other
• among them there are those that, when pressed on them, bend,

then the "warm floor" system will be mounted according to 2 options.

Both of them, with proper observance of the parameters, will warm the room well. And he and the other will not do without preliminary preparation.

Option 1

This underfloor heating scheme is quite laborious. Perhaps I will upset someone now, but if everything is done with brains and for centuries, then the lags need to be removed. Yes! Completely and neatly. They will perfectly fulfill the function of the basis for the turns of pipes and will serve well as part of a heat-reflecting system.

1. The lags were removed. The surface underneath was levelled. It can be a low concrete screed. And you can (although the method is not scientific, rather handicraft), fall asleep with ordinary slag, which is well tamped and leveled.

2. Lay sheets of plywood or fiberboard. They need to be connected with staples.

3. Lay vapor and waterproofing on the “false” floor. Usually it is a foil film. But some experienced builders recommend simply laying a film that is used for greenhouse walls.

4. If you act according to the rules, the next layer is a heater (isoplex, mineral wool in slabs, and so on). I'm all for technology. But, if the height of the ceilings does not allow such a significant increase in the floor, it is better to do without insulation. After all, the thickness of the warm water floor is at least 10 centimeters. See

• leveling screed - at least 2 cm,
• plywood - 2 cm,
• insulation - 2.5 cm,
• pipes - at least 1.5 cm,
• flooring- a few more inches

total - 10 cm.

5. If the insulation is still laid, then again you need to put a heat-reflecting film on top.

6. Now it's lag time again. They need to be nailed to the updated surface. Leave a distance of about 2 centimeters between them.

7. The underfloor heating pipe will be laid in the grooves. For thermal insulation, it is better to wrap the pipe in foil. The step distance between the turns will depend on the width of the lag. If it is up to 10 centimeters, then the diameter of the pipe may not exceed 16 mm.

8. Pipes need to be fixed. Or do it with staples to the lags. Or lay a metal sheet on top of the structure.

Now the system will need to be connected to a heat source, tested and, if everything is in order, then the flooring can be laid.

Option 2

This option, I will say right away, is less correct. When the lags are not removed, they must be strengthened. A metal sheet on the entire floor area is simply necessary. Then,

1. The next layer is insulation. We connect its sheets together, making a monolithic base.
2. It is worth laying a substrate that will not let the heat go down (see point 3 of option 1).
3. Now in the insulation you need to cut the grooves along the entire length. A pipe will be laid in them, through which heated water will have to circulate.
4. Top - heat-reflecting film.
5. Next you need to put OSB sheet or chipboard.
6. Now you can lay the flooring.

Such a device of a warm water floor can only be done in a room where there will be no heavy furniture and constant movement of people. Otherwise, the design will fail.

Connecting to the system

The heating system of a wooden house, of course, must take into account the presence of a warm floor. Here are the possible solutions:

• all rooms of the house are heated by means of a warm floor,
• underfloor heating only heats part of the rooms.

In both cases, you need a good boiler that will be able to warm up enough complex system. You can’t do without a pump, since the length of the pipes will be many times greater than with standard version heating. It is also worth considering options for supplying water to the entire system. There are also two possible solutions:

1. Both the floor and the radiators make up one looped whole.
2. Pipes and batteries are one system. Floor heating is different.
3. Underfloor heating is the only heating system in the house.

Usually installation heating system carried out in parallel. Some of the workers are busy installing the boiler. Others (if it is in wooden house) install the heating system using pipes and batteries. In other, free, rooms, a pipe for underfloor heating is laid.

If there is a warm floor throughout the house, then we can offer the following installation system: pipes are laid with a snake or snail in each private room, from the premises, both ends of the pipe are led out into the corridor, from where all the pipes are led to the boiler room.

An ideal underfloor heating installation is one that has a separate connection for each room. Then it will be possible to regulate the temperature and control the pressure in all turns of the system. All these subtleties need to be thought out even before installation. When the warm floor is laid, but there is still no floor covering on top, you need to supply the system with water, make sure that there are no leaks and turn on the boiler.

Underfloor heating must be connected standard scheme, where it is mandatory to control the water pressure in the system, as well as the maximum temperature (for latitudes with moderate winters, it should not be higher than 30 degrees at the outlet). If at each stage there was careful control, which guarantees execution according to a well-established scheme, then the result will only please. And heat, and saving energy resources.

When it comes to flooring, ceramic tiles are the ideal conductor of heat. However, it is quite realistic to put linoleum, laminate and even parquet on top of the "warm floor" system. The only thing worth taking are those materials whose class is quite high and the manufacturer of which guarantees the use of environmentally friendly clean materials when creating them. Given that when heated, some harmful compounds increase volatility, and also that the material expands at elevated temperatures, there is no need to save on flooring over the “warm floor” system.

Video on installing a warm floor in a wooden house:

It is not always possible to arrange in an apartment, and even more so in a private house concrete screed. It is heavy, massive and can cause the collapse of old floors. What then to be, if the idea of ​​insulating a wooden base with a system of water-heated floors was born in your head? It is well known that this design without fail must be embedded in concrete. Fortunately for you, there is a technology that allows you to lay a warm floor on wooden floor, and everyone can make such a "somersault".

Schematic representation of a water heated floor

Choosing a floor heating system

You are unlikely to be able to take advantage of the full range of options for underfloor heating systems offered on the market, since some of their types require mandatory installation directly into the screed. There are only two options left: water heated floor and film or infrared.

The latter will be ideal for small (up to 30 m²) areas and only in cases where, in addition to the floor heating system, it is planned to install the main heat source. The advantage of the underfloor heating film system is its thinness, lightness and ease of installation. But even this is not the main thing, but the fact that the load on wooden base in the case of using infrared mats, they will be minimal, and the level of the floor will hardly change.

True, there is one limitation: the temperature of the heated surface should not exceed 27 ° C. You still have a tree under your feet.

The second option for - water system warm floor. The manufacturer recommends laying it directly into a fresh screed, but if you do not have such an opportunity, then you can use a lightweight design, the so-called wooden or flooring system.

wooden system a water-heated floor has one property that is very important for old and possibly even slightly rotten floors - it fits on the logs, which means it will not exert a significant load on the base. The structure of this design is very simple: a system of pipes is laid between wooden slats, which, in fact, form the base of the floor.

Advantages and disadvantages of a water floor heating system

If you are faced with the question of how to make a warm wooden floor, then pay attention to the system of water heated floors.

Advantages:

• Uniform distribution of heat over the entire surface of the floor
• Normalization of the humidity level in the room
• Energy saving
• The ability to use the system in summer time for space cooling
• No noise, vibrations and other unpleasant moments during operation

Disadvantages:

• High risk of leakage
• Possible difficulties during installation
• Reducing the pressure in the water supply system

Methods for laying a water-heated floor on a wooden base

There are two ways to lay a water floor on wooden floors:

1. The modular scheme provides for the installation of the entire system into ready-made modules. Inside such sections there is a groove into which they fit. This method is quite fast, because you do not have to spend time installing rails and so on.

Modular underfloor heating system

1. The rack laying system is somewhat more complicated than the modular one, but nevertheless, almost everyone can cope with the task. Installation of a water floor in this case is carried out between the rails of chipboard or OSB. The width of such grooves should not be less than 20 mm.

Rack system of water heated floors

Wooden base preparation

First of all, you need to make sure that the wooden base is suitable for installing a warm floor. To do this, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of it. If the boards are intact, do not have rotten areas and do not walk underfoot, then you can safely proceed to the stage preparatory work, but if:

• a draft is felt under the boards;
• the logs are located at a distance of more than 60 cm from each other (the warm floor provides for a maximum distance between adjacent logs of at least 60 cm);
• boards have irregularities, then it is better to dismantle such a base and replace it with a new one.

The last point, by the way, is not mandatory. But if you decide to use a laminate as a topcoat, then the base must have a perfectly flat surface (a slight deviation from the norm within 2 mm is allowed). And the point here is not at all that the manufacturer wants it that way, but that when installing a water-heated floor, the use of a substrate is not provided, so it is advisable to immediately level the surface of the base to the maximum.

Subfloor installation

As mentioned above, the distance between the lags should be brought to the standard, that is, up to 60 cm. After you have successfully overcome this stage, it is worth taking up the device of the raised floor, which will eventually bear the weight of the heat insulator. To do this, plywood or a board is nailed to the logs from their lower side, even the one that was already in use.

Lay a layer of vapor barrier over the raised floor, just choose special protective films, and not ordinary polyethylene, since the use of the latter will lead to condensation due to temperature changes. Lay the next layer either mineral wool, or expanded polystyrene, or any other material, since the choice today is huge.

Do not forget about the compensation tape, which is glued around the entire perimeter of the room. Its purpose is to protect the floor from seasonal expansions.

Laying boards

Now you need to put draft boards, on which a water-heated floor will subsequently be mounted. Most important point at this stage, it is correct to make the grooves between the boards, because it is in them that the tubes will pass. The width and height of the groove should be within 20x20.

Laying wooden slats- very milestone water floor heating installation

The ends of the boards should be rounded - in this place the tubes will be rotated 360 degrees and the inversion line should be smooth.

Installation of a warm floor

In the grooves lay special metal heat reflective plates or ordinary foil - it will play the role of a kind of barrier that prevents the spread of heat in the direction of the earth. Lay metal-plastic tubes with a diameter of 16 mm on top of the foil, and for greater effect, wrap all the tubes in another layer of foil and fasten its edges to the floor with a stapler. To prevent the tubes from accidentally popping out of the grooves, attach small metal plates in several places.

System connection

The penultimate stage of installation is the connection of the heating system. You can choose the easiest way - manual regulation, or use other methods. For example, connecting with mixing units or using a collector system. The choice is wide, so you have to weigh the pros and cons of a particular connection system.

Important: connecting a water heated floor to a centralized heating system should be carried out only if you have all the documents confirming the coordination of your actions in all instances. In a private house, everything is much simpler, because, as a rule, it has its own heating unit, which in no way depends on the public utilities.

In conclusion, it is necessary to pressure test the system for damage or leakage. If you omit this moment and immediately go to the flooring of the finish coating, in the future you can get a lot of problems: from swelling of the coating to its soaking and complete delamination.

Choice of finish

Not all floor coverings can be laid on top of the water floor system. The main selection condition is the coefficient of resistance to heat transfer - from 0.15 m 2 K / W and less. It is for this reason that cork coating will be unsuitable for final finishing. There will be no problems with ceramic tiles and laminate, but you will have to tinker with parquet. In addition, not all carpet and elastic coatings are suitable for warm water floors - you will have to choose only those that have special designations.

Underfloor heating on wooden beams, which is the name of the technology for laying a floor water heating system, can be installed in 3-4 days. The bulk of the time will be spent on laying the boards, because you will have to carefully measure the width of the grooves. The installation of the structure itself and its connection is a fairly quick process, which means that in a week you and your loved ones will be able to feel the warmth emanating from the laminate, linoleum or carpet.

Underfloor heating systems, due to their many advantages, have gained wide popularity among homeowners, including owners of wooden private cottages. But in this case, the installation of underfloor heating has its own nuances, since such houses rarely perform concrete bases on which they are laid in the traditional way. In this article we will talk about these nuances and how best to arrange a water-heated floor in a wooden house.

Ways to install underfloor heating

In wooden buildings, underfloor heating with a heat carrier can be installed in 2 ways:

• Traditional, under a screed of cement- sand mortar.
• "Dry" way, on wooden logs or beams

Because in houses from wooden beam the floors of the first floor or the ceiling above the basement are often concrete, then traditional way installation of floor water systems cannot be completely dismissed. Moreover, you should not be smart on such grounds with a warm floor on wooden logs, this will lead to extra costs and the result may not meet your expectations. Better on drafts concrete floors arrange a heating system under the screed, and only then lay the flooring made of wood.

A completely different situation is when a house with wooden floors. You should not run a screed with a heating circuit on them, and here's why:

• The cement-sand screed exerts an additional load, for which the overlap is not always designed.
• A good wooden house constantly "breathes", as a result of which the mortar layer may crack, since the amplitude of its expansion does not coincide with the processes in wooden structures. It will be necessary to provide compensation for the expansion of the heating circuit, which is quite difficult and costly.

For reference. Sometimes wooden houses are often built from insufficiently dried profiled timber, which is why at first changes occur in the thickness of the structures, leading to material cracks. In such conditions, the screed will certainly suffer.

The use of various electric floor heating systems is not excluded, of which the most acceptable option is the use of infrared floor heating for heating a wooden house. A thin polymer film with heating elements applied on it is laid directly under the floor covering, no screed is required, which greatly simplifies installation work. However, in this case, the choice of energy resources for heating a home is limited to electricity, while the coolant of water heated floors can be heated from a gas, solid fuel or diesel boiler.

Some homeowners, paying tribute to tradition, build brick stoves in wooden houses, embedding a heating circuit for water in them. In this situation, there is simply no alternative to heating floor circuits with coolant.

The device of water heated floors in a "dry" way

as carriers structural elements floors in houses are used logs and wooden beams floors. Logs are installed on a solid base or on a set point supports, while the beams have 2 support points at the edges and in some cases additionally rely on partitions. Since the beam is Basic structure overlapping, then it is not allowed to make any grooves or cuts in it, this is the main difficulty when installing a warm floor in a wooden house. The only way out is to lay a rough floor from boards or chipboard sheets, and from it already start the device of the "pie" of underfloor heating.

The situation with lags is somewhat different. When the beam is laid on a solid solid base, then it has the possibility of cutting grooves for the pipes of the water circuit and it is not necessary to make a subfloor. If the lags are supported at several points, then it is extremely undesirable to make cuts in them, as in load-bearing beams. But in any case, before arranging a draft floor on top of the beams or lag, a layer is laid between them thermal insulation material. For laying a warm floor on wooden logs of the first floor, the thickness of the insulation must be at least 80 mm, and 20-30 mm is sufficient for overlapping. At the same time, a waterproofing layer of polyethylene film should be laid under the heat-insulating material on the ground floor.

Under the pretext that all floors of a private house make up a single space, many installation manuals for underfloor heating indicate that it is not necessary to insulate the floors. Like, there is nothing wrong with part of the heat of the heating circuit going down. In fact, this violates the very principle of operation of underfloor heating, since the heat coming from the ceilings of the room will remain in the upper zone, and in the room where the floor heating system is located, it may not be enough. In order for heat to spread evenly throughout the rooms for which it is intended, lay a small layer of insulating material, arranging a warm, dry floor in the ceiling.

After the heat-insulating material has been laid and the rough base made of boards or chipboard has been mounted, it is necessary to ensure that all the heat of the heating circuit is reflected upwards. This is done in 2 ways:

• It is necessary to start the device warm wooden floors with laying over the entire surface of the foil reflective layer. In the case when the pipes of the circuit are planned to be laid directly on the insulation and through the cuts in the logs, the foil is laid only between them.
• A more expensive way - using slab wood materials and profiled sheets of galvanized metal. Having drawn a diagram of the layout of the contours of underfloor heating on a wooden base, in the intervals between the pipe routes, parts from chipboard are attached to it with self-tapping screws. Sheets of galvanized steel are inserted into the resulting grooves.

The installation of water heated floors continues with the layout of the heating circuit pipes. For this purpose, pipes made of metal-plastic with a diameter of 16 mm (DU10) are most often used. The laying step here must be observed less than in warm floors under the screed, since heat transfer in our case will not be as effective. The pipe with the heat carrier transfers heat to the coating not directly, but through air layer hence the decrease in heat transfer. Accordingly, the pipe laying step should be on average 150 mm, maximum - 200 mm. After that, the circuit is connected to the collector, checked for leaks and can be laid top coat for wooden floor.

Floor heating "under the screed"

The underfloor heating installation technology, which provides for embedding the contours in a cement-sand mortar screed, is widespread and well known, the floor pie is shown in the figure:

First you need to provide waterproofing future plate by laying a polyethylene film over concrete preparation. Then, in order to compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed, a damper tape is attached along the entire perimeter of the room along the walls, after which a heater is laid over the entire surface of the base.

In order for water-heated floors to have good heat dissipation, a foil film with markings is placed on top of the thermal insulation, along which the pipes are laid out. The laying pitch here varies from 150 mm (for parquet with carpet) to 350 mm (for tiles). It is necessary to ensure that the length of each circuit does not exceed 100 m. Pipe fastening is carried out using special strips or plastic "harpoons". At the end, the circuit is connected to the distributor and checked for leaks.

The last step is pouring the screed. Optimal Thickness solution layer - 3-5 cm above the top of the pipe, the time for complete solidification is 3 weeks. After that, you can finally make a warm floor in a wooden house by laying a top coat over the screed.

Conclusion

Mounting a warm water floor on a wooden floor is somewhat more difficult than under a screed, and its heat transfer is less. But don't let that worry you, it won't affect energy consumption in any way. Just keep in mind that floor circuits will not be enough for full heating and you will need to provide a radiator heating system.

The desire to make the house warm, cozy and comfortable encourages people to use modern technologies in the field of heating. The installation of warm floors has become especially popular. It is not difficult to install such a system, however, installation, for example, on a wooden base has a number of features.

Purpose of underfloor heating and laying features

The wooden floor resembles a multi-layer cake, the main components of which are rough laying, layers of thermal insulation and waterproofing, finishing base and final flooring. Between these layers, you can lay a warm floor - a modern heating system that allows you to organize space heating.

When installing underfloor heating wooden base the following must be taken into account:

• If wooden floors are part of a wooden house, then when installing the system, it is important to remember that during the first year after construction, the walls shrink significantly, which can reach 5%.
• wood - natural material, sensitive to changes in the microclimate in the room. With strong changes in humidity and temperature, it can dry out, crack or rot.

First of all, you need to decide whether the underfloor heating will be the main type of heating, or whether it is planned to install it as an additional one. This affects the choice of equipment power. For example, when installed as the main type of heating, the specific power of the system should be 180 W / sq.m, as an auxiliary - 140 W / sq.m.

For laying on insulated terraces or in winter garden suitable equipment, the power of which is higher by 15-20%. It is necessary to focus on the same indicator when choosing a system if there is a cold basement under the insulated surface.

Laying a warm floor occurs with a predetermined step. Its value depends on the planned intensity of heating. In cool places, such as near outer wall buildings, heating sections can be laid with smaller steps than in the center of the room.

Kinds

Underfloor heating models are divided into two groups:

• Electric floors are specialized current-carrying systems consisting of heating mats, cables or a special heating film.
• Water floors - structures made of tubes with a coolant circulating inside, which are attached to the base and connected to centralized heating or own boiler with a pump.

Electric floors, in turn, are divided into three types:

• Thermal cable. It is sold in coils, the models differ in the degree of heating and the amount of heat generated. Power range - 120–180 W/sq.m.
• Mats. This is an analogue of the cable floor, in which a heating element is attached to the base with a given step.
• Infrared film, along the edges of which there are contacts. Power - 150–220 Vm / sq. m.

floors electric type easier in terms of installation and smaller in size, when laying them, it is not always necessary to dismantle the old floor covering. They heat up faster, and with the help of a customizable control system in each room, you can set one or another temperature. Besides, electrical structures durable and can last up to 50 years.

But when installing on a wooden base, you must remember that there is a risk of fire in case of short circuit. Another disadvantage electric floors is the high power consumption. When laying such structures, it is also necessary to check whether the electrical wiring can withstand the additional load.

Water systems are safer. All elements of such floors are hidden by the top flooring, so that the pipes do not take up extra space inside the room and do not spoil the interior. When installed on a wooden floor, water systems heat the room evenly, but weaker than electric structures, because the thermal conductivity of wood is low. It should also be borne in mind that there is a risk of leaks, especially at the joints.

In general, water-type underfloor heating is the most common backup heating system.

The choice of heating method also depends on which top coating will be used in the house. If you plan to lay ceramic or porcelain stoneware slabs, it is better to choose mats or a standard heat cable for heating. For parquet board or laminate, a film heating system is used. Water heated floor can be used with all types of floor coverings.

At correct installation and compliance with basic safety and operating rules, all types of structures are suitable for installation on a wooden floor.

Installation of water heated floors on a wooden base

• Building level.
• Set of wrenches and wrenches.
• A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver.
• Scissors for pipes from metalplastic.
• Hot welding.
• Roulette.
• Pipes for the circulation of the coolant.
• Waterproofing film
• Thermal insulation material
• Fasteners - clamps, brackets, straps and so on.
• Equipment for connection to the heating system: couplings, adapters, mixers, collectors.

Pipes can be used to create a warm floor various types: metal, metal-plastic, plastic, suture, seamless and others. The most popular variety is metal-plastic lines of a seamless type.

Water system device

When laying a pipe system on an existing wooden floor, it is necessary to assess its condition. If there are small gaps, they must be sealed with heat-insulating material or grout mixtures. In the case when the old floor cannot be repaired, it must be dismantled. The grounds for dismantling are:

1. Lack of insulation. The wind can “walk” under the boards.
2. Too much distance between the individual lags. It should not exceed 50-60 centimeters.

After checking and possible dismantling old wooden floor, you can proceed with the installation of a new design. It is produced in several stages:

Do-it-yourself installation of a cable heating system

Necessary materials and tools

In the process of installing the cable floor, you will need a set of equipment and tools:

• Heating cable.
• Temperature controller.
• Foil and material for thermal insulation.
• Corrugated tube.
• Mounting tape.
• Measuring instruments (ohmmeter, voltmeter) necessary to test the network.
• Mounting elements.
• Working tools: pliers, screwdrivers, scissors, tape measure.

Installation guide

When installing cable construction it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances:

1. The presence of a thermostat in the system minimizes the risk of fire and overheating of floor coverings. AT wooden buildings The maximum temperature level is 40 degrees.
2. The heating elements are evenly distributed over the area of ​​the room. The exception is areas where cabinets, sofas and other heavy objects are placed. With constant exposure, their weight can deform the cable.
3. The height of the covering laid on top of the electric heating system depends on the type of wood. If the surface is hardwood(oak or beech), the height limit is 2.4 mm. For "soft" varieties, this figure is 2.2 cm.

indoors with warm floors it is undesirable to place carpets. They prevent heat from spreading around the room.

Technology installation work comes down to this:

1. Ceilings are cleaned of dust and other contaminants.
2. Cracks are closed with grout mixtures produced for the treatment of wood surfaces. enjoy mounting foam not recommended: the product has high insulating properties.
3. The bars of the rough base are laid. Fastening to the base is done with self-tapping screws.
4. A thermal insulation layer is placed in the interlayer between the bars. The most commonly used foil acts as an insulator and reflector of heat rays emitted by heating devices.
5. A galvanized mesh is laid over the thermal insulation layer.
6. A heating cable is laid on the grid.
7. At the intersection of the cable with the bars, small cuts are made.
8. The fastening of wires with bars is carried out using a mounting film. If you need to secure the cable to the grid, you can use clamps.

Installation of film heating on wooden floors

When preparing the base for the installation of the film system, it is not necessary to dismantle the old coating. It is necessary only in case of significant physical wear.

Necessary materials and tools

When installing an infrared underfloor heating, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Heating film.
• Polyethylene film.
• Heat insulating underlay.
• thermostat and temperature sensor.
• Wire (section - from 2.5 sq. mm).
• Tools: scissors, knife (can be stationery), indicator screwdriver, tape measure, pliers.

Mounting technology

If you plan to use infrared film as the main source of heating, you need to ensure that it covers more than 70% of the floor.

Self-assembly and the infrared floor is connected according to the following algorithm:

1. Cleaning the floor from dust and other contaminants. Work takes place on a dry, cleaned surface.
2. With a wet draft layer, the thermal film is waterproofed. For this, it is used polyethylene film up to 50 microns thick.
3. A film made of polypropylene or metallized lavsan is used as a heat reflector (aluminum foil cannot be used for these purposes). First you need to cut the material. If a warm floor is mounted in a large room, you need to ensure that the length of the film is no more than 10 meters.
4. The material is laid at a distance of 25–30 cm from each wall. The thermal film is laid out on the floor with copper tires down. It is forbidden to step on the film, drop tools. It is also not allowed to overlap two sheets on top of each other. Before laying, you should mark out the room, determine where heavy furniture and equipment will stand, and avoid these places. Otherwise, due to constant pressure, the thermal film will deteriorate.

To connect the system to electrical network it is better to invite a competent electrician. If there is a desire to do it yourself, then the work should be organized as follows:

1. Strip the wire (8–10 mm) and insert the end into the terminal.
2. The contact is established on a sheet of film. Connection points and cut lines are insulated with vinyl mastic tape.
3. After connecting all the sheets, the resistance is measured at the ends of the wires connected to the thermostat.
4. Next, the load is calculated. For this, the formula W=V2/R is used, where V is the voltage in the network, R is the resistance. The final figure should be about 20-25% lower than the one indicated on the thermostat. After that, you can connect the device.
5. Thermal film strips are connected to the thermostat in parallel. To avoid possible damage wiring, separate sections hidden under insulation.
6. Then the temperature sensor is placed. The device is included with the thermostat. The installation location depends on what material is planned to be used as a finishing coating: if it is soft, then the sensor is installed in a place with a minimum load.
7. Connecting the thermostat to the network and testing the system for contact overheating, sparking, and so on.

After completion of all work on the installation of the film floor, the finish coating is laid. If it is planned to use ceramic or porcelain stoneware tiles, a mounting grid is preliminarily laid out on the floor and fixed in places where there is no thermal film. After laying, the adhesive solution with which the tiles are mounted must dry. This will take about a month. It is not recommended to turn on the warm floor until this moment.

Video: How to make film heating on a wooden base

The ideal indoor climate is achieved with heating appliances. To receive optimum temperature indoors, you need to follow the rules for choosing and installing a warm floor on a wooden base, which allow any homeowner to easily install the selected system.

Space heating offers many options. For a new house with 2-3 floors concrete floors there are no problems at all. If necessary, heat a previously abandoned attic, which has turned into fashion under the influence of fashion. residential attic, you have to work hard. Getting dry is somewhat more difficult due to the lightweight design, which is not able to withstand big weight. Owners of prefabricated buildings face the same problem.

However, this is not a reason to deny yourself the pleasure of putting a comfortable and economical system heating instead of expensive electric. Many are also stopped by the need for a radiator heating device in order to get warm floors. In fact, a water heated floor is installed along with radiator system to increase the heating rate of the room.

The method of laying on a wooden surface provided by the manufacturer

To obtain the desired result, it is necessary to correctly lay the water wooden warm floor. The installation manual recommends using special metal plates in this case. They are assembled together thanks to convenient grooves. Pipes are mounted directly into the plate, where the necessary grooves are provided. The design, despite its lightness, is highly durable. The wooden underfloor heating system allows you to lay the flooring immediately after installing the pipes. For residents of remote regions, acquiring such a system is a great success. Most vendors don't like to expand theirs for which there is almost no demand. Do not forget about the high cost of the material.

The desire to lay underfloor heating water on a wooden floor with a pre-order of the necessary aluminum layout from the supplier contributes to a multiple excess of the planned costs.

Alternative laying method

Masters have long learned to create quality products, mount structures, replacing missing parts with improvised materials. A water heated floor can be laid on a wooden floor using the principle of air thermal insulation. filled with heat and sound insulating filler, steadily retain heat, preventing it from penetrating to the lower floor. A leveling layer of plywood or OSB is laid on the beams.

The next element performs the functions of distributing heat and directing it in the right direction. It becomes aluminium foil. Preference is given to durable dense brands used in saunas or baths. It is also necessary to take care of the waterproofing and vapor barrier of the structure. To increase the efficiency and safety of the system, laying a water-heated floor on a wooden floor, use a metal corrugated pipe. It is resistant to small movements and is able to compensate for inaccuracies made during installation.

Laying on a thin screed

Some allow the possibility of a screed device. At the same time, their design load limits the thickness of its layer to 5 cm, and more often to 3 cm. Warm water floors are laid on a wooden floor if there is a well-mounted heat removal from the pipe. Following the standard principle of installing a water floor, the missing thickness is compensated with foil. The foil is laid in a dense layer directly under the screed. Additional material, which helps to evenly distribute heat in the structure, which at the same time increases the strength of the screed. Filling the screed can only be done after laying the pipes and filling them with water. All further work can only be produced one month after that.

Disadvantages and advantages of underfloor heating

Warm floors "work" throughout the entire area of ​​​​the house, which allows not only to get a surface that is pleasant to the touch, but also to contribute to general heating dwellings. Studying how to make a warm floor in a wooden house with your own hands, the owner will first evaluate the complexity of installation and compare the cost-effectiveness of water and electrical systems. The efficiency of full-fledged heating boilers significantly exceeds the performance of an electric underfloor heating, which tilts the scales not in favor of the latter.

With a huge number positive feedback and recommendations, a warm water floor has its drawbacks. They are related to the features of operation. It is necessary to cover the floor covering with carpet, linoleum, as the floor will immediately cease to warm up qualitatively. When laying tiles on a screed with pipes, it is worth considering that due to temperature differences, the adhesive may not withstand and crack. Another drawback is the high cost of floors, which is about 1,500 rubles only for materials when calculated per 1 sq.m. The price, together with the work, can reach 3,000 rubles per 1 sq.m.

Purchase of necessary materials

Do-it-yourself warm water floor in a wooden house is mounted without problems if available necessary materials corresponding to the selected mounting method. The main set of components looks like this:

• Pipes specially designed for such working conditions. For the calculation, one should proceed from the standard consumption - 6 meters per square meter.
• Collector and shield for him. The choice of a place for the collector should be taken care of in advance, the main requirement is its accessibility.
• Plastic clamps and other possible fastenings for pipes.
• Working boiler. It should be provided that the boiler must be able to connect water floor pipes.
• Reinforcing mesh and materials needed for screeding (if possible).
• Thick foil.
• Waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.

Preliminary work

Underfloor heating water on a wooden floor is allowed to be installed after completion of work on replacing windows and doors in the room, completion plastering works, withdrawal of plots for the subsequent connection of sewerage, water supply, electricity. Then work is carried out to level the floor using OSB boards or plywood. Height difference per 1 sq. m for the heating system cannot exceed 5 mm.

Thermal insulation - the beginning of all work

All thermal energy should point straight up. Properly executed thermal insulation allows avoiding heat loss. A warm water floor on a wooden floor with their own hands begins to be mounted, taking into account the characteristics of the floor. For interfloor overlap 20 mm of heat-insulating material with a density of 25 kg per m 3 is sufficient. For cold overlapping, the thickness of the insulation is increased to 50 mm at the same density. In this group of building products, polystyrene in plates is especially popular. The slabs are laid on the entire surface of the floor, fastened together with special locks. When installing a water floor on a wooden surface, it is recommended to use penofol covered with foil.

Installation on a concrete screed

A waterproofing and heat-insulating layers are laid on a pre-cleaned surface and reinforcing mesh. The latter should be raised 1.5 cm above the base. The first pipe is connected to the supply manifold, then the laying process takes place in accordance with the intended scheme. When choosing a "snake" scheme, the workflow is greatly simplified. Mounting a warm water floor on a wooden floor with your own hands according to this principle is not difficult, but in the future you will have to deal with the difference in surface temperatures in different parts rooms.

A more labor-intensive laying scheme - a “spiral” - repeatedly justifies the efforts made during further operation. A distance of about 20 cm (+10 cm) should be maintained between the turns, depending on the characteristics of the room. Everyone running meter the pipe is attached to the fittings, taking into account the expansion when heated. The length of the circuit should not exceed 60 meters. Before the final pouring of the screed, the operation of the system should be carefully checked. The pouring height is about 5 cm above the pipe. The composition of the mixture must include a plasticizer, which allows the plate to maintain strength under conditions of temperature difference. It takes 28 days to dry completely.

Installation of underfloor heating without screed

Warm water floors on a wooden floor are laid after pre-installation special mats. They serve as an excellent basis for the working circuit and metal plates, which provide uniform heating of the surface.

The following algorithm is applied:

Manifold connection

Regardless of the chosen method of laying pipes for underfloor heating, they must be connected to a collector. The first pipe is connected to a manifold supplying hot water. opposite end- to the cold water return collector. occurs with the help of special nuts. Connecting pipes to the collector is the final stage of installation, after which the structure should not be subjected to shifts, shocks, or other mechanical impact from the outside. At this stage, the entire system is tested. The boiler turns on at full power, the water entering the pipes will move under pressure. The pressure during the test exceeds the working pressure by 1.5 times. Under such conditions, the system must be operated for at least 2 hours in order to make sure that there are no installation defects (pinched pipes, unreliable connections).

Final stage

Do-it-yourself warm water floor in a wooden house is first of all mounted taking into account aesthetic qualities. The main thing - beautiful decoration the entire structure with a finished floor. If a screed was used, then it can be laid directly on it ceramic tiles. It should be noted that saving on glue can destroy the impression of the interior in the near future. Tiling work will have to start over.

For natural wooden surfaces in the form of a board, parquet or laminate, no additional layers are required. They are laid immediately on top of the structure in which the screed was not used. For other materials, it is recommended to pre-lay the OSB sheet.