How to properly mount plastic. Do-it-yourself PVC window installation: installation technology, instructions, tools. Preliminary stage: preparing the window for installation

Most owners of their own homes choose plastic windows for installation, not only because of their excellent performance, but also because of the ease of installation. This process is simple due to the fact that the design provides for very easy-to-install fasteners and additional parts that are included in the window package. Many are interested in how professional installers install windows. With the most minimal tool skills, any homeowner is able to install such windows.

Of course, as with the installation of any structural element, when installing PVC windows, you will need to observe a number of features and certain actions. It is advisable to perform this kind of work with an assistant, even if they do not have any building skills, some difficulties may arise when leveling the window if you do this work alone. The correct execution of all the nuances of installation will help you to accurately complete the work and save on the labor of employees.

Performing measurements and calculations

Before purchasing windows, you should measure the openings - based on these data, you will make an order to the workshop. When taking measurements, it is necessary to take into account whether they are a quarter or not. For buildings made of foam concrete, openings with a quarter are characteristic, which greatly reduces heat loss. For an opening without a quarter, when ordering fiberglass windows, the length will be 5 cm less than the same parameter for the opening. 3 cm is subtracted from the value determined as the width of the opening. Gaps of 1.5 cm should be provided along the contour - they are necessary in order to carry out foaming. At the bottom, an additional 3.5 cm should be left for mounting the window sill. According to GOST, it is supposed to leave 2 cm around the perimeter.

To make the correct measurements for an opening with a quarter, measurements must be taken at the narrowest point. When ordering windows, 3 cm must be added to the measured width, the length does not change the value.

More often, PVC window structures are not arranged in the middle of the opening, but retreating in depth from the outer plane by approximately 1/3. But if you are going to install the design yourself, the window can be slightly shifted at your discretion. To order ebbs and window sills, these parameters must be taken into account. Add 5 cm to the width indicators that are calculated for the intended location of the windows.

When determining the width of the future window sill, the battery must be taken into account - it should be about half closed by the window sill. Add another 2 cm - the window sill will need to be brought under the base of the window frame. It is necessary to leave a margin along the length - at least 8 cm. But it will be much better if you add 15 cm - this allows you to cut the window sill more beautifully.

In the kit, plastic side plugs are usually attached to the ebbs and window sills. You should not refuse them, although some masters do just that.

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Window frame mounting methods

The technology for installing PVC windows does not depend on how many internal chambers are in the metal-plastic profile, or on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. When developing an installation plan, you will need to take into account the following points: the material from which the walls of the housing are made, and the dimensions of the window plastic structure. Depending on this, the method of fastening and the devices that will be used are determined.

Plastic window frames can be fixed in the opening using the following elements:

• using dowels, mounting anchors, which must be introduced into the walls through special through holes that are made in the profile in advance;
• another option is special toothed plates pressed into the profile, which are not inserted into the wall, but placed “by surprise” and fixed with screws.

The most reliable of them is considered the 1st option. It is more often used in cases where it is necessary to install window systems with considerable dimensions and weight. Window frames with through fastening quite well resist various shock loads that can occur, for example, when operating PVC systems with sashes that open in different positions. Anchors passing through the plastic frames through, allow you to more accurately adjust the structure during installation both vertically and horizontally.

Those who wish to find out the method of correct installation of PVC windows, which are small in size, with blank double-glazed windows, may be interested in fixing the structure using anchor plates. Fasteners will not spoil the appearance of the window - they are closed by slopes.

To install anchor plates in the openings of walls made of brick or concrete, it will be necessary to make recesses. If they are not done, it will be necessary to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Sometimes installers try to combine these 2 methods. The anchors are deepened into the walls through the bottom profile, that is, the base of the window structure and the sides of the frame, and the upper part is fixed with plates. If the installation of PVC windows is carried out in a bathhouse built of wood, anchor plates should not be installed - they loosen during operation. In some cases, galvanized self-tapping screws are used instead of anchors.

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The nuances of installing plastic windows in wooden buildings

The installation process will be significantly influenced by the type of material from which the housing is built. For example, for walls made of hollow or solid bricks, foam concrete, the differences will be only in the depth at which the anchors are installed. But openings in walls made of logs or beams will require a special approach. Here it will be necessary to take into account the installation method and choose the right time for this.

Plastic windows can be installed in walls made of wooden building materials only a year after the construction of the house. It is even better to wait 2 years - during this time the shrinkage process will enter the stage in which subsequent operation will be longer and more reliable. For buildings made of glued laminated timber, the shrinkage period lasts the fastest.

Installation of a window should not be carried out immediately into the opening, as is sometimes done in villages.

A plastic window should only be inserted into a wooden box, which will protect the window structure from skewing. The window block itself must be free from any damage, defects, rot are unacceptable. Before starting work, it should be treated with an antiseptic composition.

After the PVC windows are installed in place, the shrinkage of the log house does not end. True, it will not continue so intensively. In order for it not to cause a crushing defeat to plastic structures, it is recommended to leave a gap of 3-7 cm between the upper edge of the frame and the window frame. After the window is put in place, the gap is filled with jute insulation and closed on both sides with platbands.

There are no exact recommendations in the building codes on what materials ebbs and window sills should be installed in wooden houses. As a rule, standard ebbs are installed, which are ordered in one set with the window design. Window sills are both wooden and made of polymers. The bottom profile can be supported on a wooden window sill, i.e. it can be installed before the window is installed.

For those who are going to install windows with their own hands, but do not have much experience in this matter, the following information may be useful. Since wood passes moisture vapor well, the technical qualities of the mounting foam used when installing the window are seriously reduced. So that the foam blown around the perimeter of the structure is not exposed to moisture and does not get wet, along the line on which it is applied, foil polyethylene tape should be applied to the window unit. This nuance is not specified in the regulations, but experienced installers highly recommend not to neglect such equipment when installing a window.

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Standard installation methods for plastic windows

The technology for installing plastic window structures includes such a moment as the use of mounting foam. In addition to providing insulation, it will give additional rigidity to the connection of the opening with the frame. Thus, a layer of polyurethane foam, obtained as a result of its polymerization, simultaneously protects the opening and fixes the structure. So that under the influence of adverse external influences the foam layer would not lose its technical properties, it is better to surround it with additional insulation.

Regarding when exactly to insert PVC windows, the decision is made by the owners of the home. You can also find such an opinion that it is better to install it not in summer, but in winter - in this case, all installation flaws will appear immediately and can be corrected very quickly. When choosing mounting foam for work, pay attention to the information on the composition - it should indicate at what temperature you can work with this product. The foam will only cure at the temperature specified in its performance data, so you should not use foam intended for use in extreme cold conditions for summer work, and vice versa.

How to carry out foaming can be found in the instructions that the manufacturer applies to specific products. Usually foaming starts from the bottom, gradually moving up. The movements must be circular. In order to use less expensive material, it is better to blow out the foam in several steps, counting segments of about 25-30 cm.

To shift the dew point, it is better to perform foaming with different densities. In practice, it looks like this: they try to compact the outer layer of foam less than the layer facing inward. Foam should be poured around the perimeter of the window frame as evenly as possible, without gaps and voids.

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How to prepare a window opening for work?

To install PVC windows, preparatory work will be required before work. Before installation, any contamination should be completely removed from the window opening: dust, construction debris, particles of old paint. When performing work on their own, craftsmen should be aware that when installing a new plastic structure in a used wooden window frame, it is better to completely plan the top layer. It is not reliable enough, it is better to remove it completely so as not to disturb the adhesion of the foam to the surface.

If the gap between the opening and the window frame does not exceed 4 cm, they are filled only with foam. With a larger width of the gaps, it is better to fill them partially with other, cheaper materials. It can be pieces of timber, drywall, polystyrene, brick fragments and other construction waste.

In this article I will tell you in detail how to install plastic windows with your own hands. I will give a semblance of instructions for installing windows, which includes dismantling the old window and all the subtleties of how to properly install plastic windows in an old or new window opening.

Does it make sense to install plastic windows with your own hands

I will say right away that there is nothing complicated about how to install a plastic window yourself. It does not require special skills or expensive professional equipment. The technology for installing plastic windows is quite simple and consists of dismantling the old window and installing a new one. In terms of time, the dismantling of the old window takes from 30 to 90 minutes, and the installation of a new plastic window in its place takes an average of 2 hours (the average window is up to 2x2 m in size). In total, it will take you 2.5-3.5 hours to replace one window. Agree, it's not much. So, if you wish, approximately in one weekend, you can replace the windows yourself with your own hands, changing 2-3 windows a day. Savings in this case will be about $ 40-60 per window. This is how much window replacement services cost today. Sometimes the installation price is set as a percentage of the cost of new windows and ranges from 10 to 40% of the cost of new metal-plastic windows in different regions and companies. The dismantling of the old window and the delivery of a new one, as well as the finishing of the slopes, if you order the installation of new windows from them, are most often done free of charge.

If you still decide to entrust the installation of windows to builders, then below I will list the guarantees that you have the right to demand:

• if you buy windows yourself not from an installation company, then you can only be guaranteed for: seams, their filling (with foam, silicone), verticality and horizontality of the relevant parts and window performance for about a year after installation;
• if you buy windows in the same place where you order installation work, then you will also be provided with a guarantee for fittings, on average it is 1 year, a maximum of 3-5 years for elite expensive windows.

When installing windows with your own hands, you have the right to demand a guarantee for fittings from the organization where you buy the windows. And the responsibility for the seams and their filling remains on you.

I will say one thing for sure, if you have one free weekend, diligence and a desire to save money, then following the recommendations that I will describe below, you will be able to replace the windows in your house no worse than any installation team. Moreover, the word "team" is applicable to the installation of windows, very conditional. Since, in fact, the installation is performed by 1 person, and another one simply supplies tools and holds the window at the right time.

Correct measurement of a plastic window

To order plastic windows from the seller, you need to make preliminary measurements.

To do this, you must first determine what kind of window opening you have - with or without a quarter. For clarity, in the figure below I show a schematic view of the opening with a quarter (A) and without (B).

Scheme of a window opening with a quarter and without a quarter

We measure windows without a quarter

Installation of windows without a quarter is as follows. If your house is new, then the windows are mounted in an empty window opening. And in order to order a window, you need to subtract 5 cm from the size of the opening vertically - this will be the height of your window. And subtract 3 cm from the size of the opening horizontally - this will be the width of your window. Subsequently, when installing the window yourself, these 3 cm will be filled with mounting foam (1.5 cm on each side of the window). And 5 cm is 1.5 cm from the top of the window for filling with mounting foam and 3.5 cm for the window sill under the window.

You also need to make measurements of the length and width of the window sill and the outer ebb and add at least 5 cm to these dimensions so that the window sill “cuts” a little on the right and left into the wall. For an inexperienced installer - you can take 20-30 cm in reserve, the excess is cut off during installation. In general, window sills and sills come in unified widths (10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 cm) and lengths (up to 6 m), but in any case, you must provide the minimum dimensions so that you can be brought the most suitable window sill and sill from available.

We measure windows with a quarter

We measure the size of the window opening horizontally between the quarters at the narrowest point. Add 3 cm to this size (1.5 cm on each side of the window). This will be the width of our window. And vertically, we simply measure the distance from the bottom of the opening to the upper quarter, do not add or subtract anything to it. This will be the vertical size of our window. We measure the window sill and the ebb in the same way as in the version of the opening without a quarter.

Thus, we get 6 sizes:

• window height;
• window width;
• window sill length;
• window sill width;
• tide length;
• tide width.

Plastic window dimensions

If your house is not new, and an old window is still installed in the window opening, then measurements are made in the same way. Only for the window opening, you take the outer dimensions of the window frame, as it will need to be dismantled.

When ordering a window, be sure to specify whether the kit includes:

• windowsill;
• plugs are intended for plastic window sills. When ordering them, you need to tell us what the width of the window sill will be (overhang from the wall). There are 300 and 600 mm, but this is a total length, this includes two ends on one leg, and if, for example, the total length of the overhangs does not exceed 300 mm, then a plug will suit you - a 300 mm plug;
• installation profile (aka - installation profile, sweet clover, heel, window sill profile, etc.);
• fasteners for windows - anchor plates.

If not, they must be ordered separately.

Also, when ordering a window, in addition to its size, you will also be asked for such important characteristics as:

• window profile type: 3, 4 or 5-chamber;
• type of double-glazed window: 1, 2, 3-chamber;
• window opening method: blind, with opening, tilt-and-turn with ventilation, tilt-and-turn with ventilation and micro-ventilation.

Methods for installing plastic windows, their pros and cons

To date, there are two ways to install metal-plastic windows: installation of windows with unpacking and installation without unpacking the window.

Scheme of the device of a plastic window

So, the method of installing a window with unpacking involves preliminary disassembly of the window: glazing beads are removed, double-glazed windows are removed from the frame and set aside for the duration of the installation of the window frame, then the frame is attached to the wall through dowels, after which double-glazed windows and glazing beads are installed back.

Installing a window with "unpacking"

Installation without unpacking does not require the removal of double-glazed windows and glazing beads, since the frame is attached to the wall not through, but with the help of fasteners previously fixed on its outer surface.

Installing a window without "unpacking"

At the same time, the method of installing a window with unpacking has several disadvantages.

For example, installation with unpacking sometimes leads to fogging of the double-glazed window during operation. Removal and re-installation of glazing beads, especially without such experience, often affects their appearance (visible scratches, chips). Double-glazed windows during the installation of windows must be placed in a place that is safe for their integrity, otherwise they can be accidentally broken, especially if left near the installation site. The installation method itself is more laborious and takes longer than installation without unpacking (on average, installation of each window will take 30 minutes longer, and if you install plastic windows for the first time, then about 60 minutes).

Installation of plastic windows without unpacking is devoid of the above disadvantages, since the double-glazed window does not need to be removed from the frame.

Now, as for the strength of the attachment. The unpacking method is considered more durable, especially if the frame is fixed through to the wall with large long anchors. Therefore, it is worth stopping if:

1. You plan to fix windows on the 15th floor of a multi-storey building and above. On such high floors, there is a lot of sail and gusts of wind, especially if the house borders on lower buildings. Below 15 floors, windows can not be unpacked.
2. If your windows are very large (2x2 m or more), then it is better to choose the method of fastening with unpacking or combined. Balcony block can be fixed without unpacking.

In private houses, where windows are usually installed in standard medium sizes, and the number of floors rarely exceeds 4 floors, of course, it is better to choose the method of installing metal-plastic windows without unpacking. Fastening strength without unpacking will be more than enough.

And given that our site is devoted to private construction, then we will analyze in detail a method of fixing a plastic window that is more suitable for low-rise construction - without unpacking.

window installation tool

• screwdriver;
• level;
• foam gun;
• polyurethane foam at the rate of 1-3 cylinders per 1 window (it is difficult to say exactly, as it depends on the size of the window and the filling of the cylinder);
• perforator;
• silicone gun;
• set of hexagons;
• jigsaw;
• stationery knife;
• pencil;
• roulette.

The sequence of installation of plastic windows

In order to understand how to install the window correctly, - to I will briefly list the main stages of installation, after which we will dwell on the main stages in detail:

• we dismantle the old window (with it a window sill, if necessary);
• preparing a new metal-plastic window for installation;
• we apply markings on the window frame in the places of subsequent fastening;
• fasten fasteners to the window frame;
• we make recesses in the window opening in places where fasteners will be attached;
• set the plastic window according to the level;
• fasten the window to the window opening;
• we fix the ebb (it can also be mounted at the very end);
• pre-adjust window fittings;
• we foam the gaps between the frame and the window opening;
• install a window sill;
• We carry out the final adjustment of window fittings.

Dismantling the old window

1. On deaf windows, we take out the glazing beads, then the glass. On opening windows, remove the sashes from the hinges. If the windows in the sashes are held firmly, then the sashes can be removed directly with them. If the windows are very old, the frames are movable diagonally, then for safety reasons it is better to remove the glass from the sashes beforehand.
2. We make cuts in several places of the frame. For this, it is better to use a regular saw. Sometimes for such purposes they use a grinder with a circle on concrete (there will be a lot of smoke). Very important! In this case, it is categorically impossible to cut with an ordinary circle for metal, since it can jam, or even break. And given that the disk spins at an average speed of about 7000 revolutions per minute, this is very, very dangerous. It is also categorically impossible to insert a disk with teeth on a tree into a grinder.

Making cuts when dismantling an old wooden window frame

Then, in parts, we take it out with a crowbar, a puncher with a “shovel” nozzle or other improvised tools.

Dismantling an old wooden frame with a puncher and scrap

Sometimes a wooden frame is left if it is in good condition. But it is better to dismantle it and attach it to the wall material. Then the size of the light window will be larger, and the fastening will be more reliable than to wood, and the wooden frame will not rot over time.

1. We dismantle the old window sill. If it is wooden, then we act with it in the same way as with a wooden frame: we make a cut and take it out in parts with a crowbar. If it is concrete, then we break it with a jackhammer, if there is such a tool, if not, then with a hammer and a crowbar or, again, a grinder with a circle on concrete. If your window sills are concrete, in good condition, and they suit you, then you can leave them. But it is important to remember that the plastic window sill is "warmer". Also, if you leave the old window sill, then there is almost always a large gap between it and the window frame, and even if it is sealed with a mixture using a mesh, then cracks are inevitable. The way out, in this case, is one - to seal the window sill on top with tiles.
2. We clean the window opening from debris and dust.

Preparing a plastic window for installation

If the window is openable (not blind), then during installation, the window must be in the closed position. This is very important, because if the window is open, for example, for ventilation, then the foam with which we will later fill the space between the frame and the window opening will bend the frame in a semicircle. In the closed position, the window must be at least 12 hours after foaming. Then you can open. In order for the window to be definitely closed, it is advisable not to install the handle until the window is installed. Otherwise, one of your household members will be able to unknowingly open the window when you leave for a couple of minutes. If there is no handle, then there will simply be nothing to worry about.

Do not remove the protective tape from the window surface until the end of the window installation process, and if you finish the slopes, then until the finishing work is completed.

Installing a plastic window

1. We apply markings on the window frame in the places of subsequent fastening. Fastening is carried out from all 4 sides of the window frame every 70 cm. Sometimes they are fastened less often, but we do not recommend more than 100 cm. The indentation of the extreme fastener from the corner of the window frame is usually done in the range of 5-15 cm.The only thing is that you can not attach the frame from below if you have a window with a support profile.

Scheme and photo of the appearance of the stand profile

1. We fasten fasteners to the window frame. Fasteners are attached to the window frame in such a way that the self-tapping screw is fixed in the metal located inside the frame (metal bent channel). For this, it is better to take special self-tapping screws - for metal (diameter 4 mm). They come immediately with a drill on the end. If you use ordinary screws, then first you need to make a hole in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm (4-5 cm long), and only then you can fix the fastener using a conventional self-tapping screw with a diameter of 5 mm.If the windows are large (2x2 m or more), then the drill is 8 mm in diameter, and the self-tapping screw is 12 mm in diameter.Special anchor plates can be used as fasteners. Sometimes they are also attached to U-shaped drywall hangers.

Fasteners for mounting a window in a window opening

But their cost is approximately the same - from $ 0.05 (when buying in bulk) to $ 0.15, and the thickness of the metal, at the same time, is often different: the anchor plate usually comes in a thickness of 1.1-1.5 mm, and the U-shaped suspension from 0.5 to 1 mm. The thicker the metal, the better.

Fasteners for a plastic window, made of U-shaped suspensions

1. We make recesses in the window opening in the places where the fasteners will be attached. To do this, we insert the frame with fasteners already fixed to its surface into the window opening. In those places where the fasteners will be attached to the opening, we knock out recesses according to the size of the fastener and to a depth of 2-4 cm (to the wall - brick or stone). We will drown the fasteners in them. We do this so that later it will be easier to finish the slopes. No need to throw an extra layer of plaster to hide the fasteners.

Recesses knocked out in the window opening for fasteners

Important: if you have a window without a mounting plate, then inserting it into the opening, you need to raise it to the height of the window sill, so that later the window sill can be brought under the frame, and not fastened to the joint with the window frame. To do this, place blocks of wood, pieces of foam or bricks under the frame. If the window is with a mounting plate, then this is not necessary. The mounting plate just raises the window frame to the height of the window sill. It is not necessary to fasten the mounting plate to the frame, it is usually supplied already fixed.

1. Set the window to level. To do this, in the right places we put under the frame, for example, wooden wedges (bars of the right size). The wedges are always located strictly under the transverse parts of the frame: under the horizontal part along the vertical line, and vice versa. We expose the wedges in the following sequence: First, the bottom two, which will set the lower edge and, accordingly, the upper one into the horizon.At this stage, it is convenient to temporarily fix the top anchor plate so that the window does not dangle. Then two on top, which will secure the frame up and down. And only then, the remaining wedges to the left and right, and always on both sides and from the bottom and top of the window. If there is an impost, then it is also necessary to wedge it, and it is also necessary to control that all vertical posts stand in the same plane. The installation of wedges takes the longest time in the installation. As a result, the frame should be set exactly both vertically and horizontally. This work is easier to do together: one holds the window, the other puts wedges under the frame.

Installing a window by level

1. Fasten the window to the window opening. After the window is perfectly aligned with us, we can finally fix it in the window opening. Windows are usually fixed with dowels, sometimes with anchors. Anchoring is considered more durable, but also more expensive. So here the choice is yours. I will say one thing - a dowel hammered into concrete can withstand a load of 60 kilograms. So in this case, as for me, it is more than enough. Dowels are used with a diameter of 6-8 mm, a length of 75-80 mm. For fastening to wall materials such as hollow brick, shell rock and foam concrete, anchors with a diameter of 6-8 mm are used. For fastening to a tree - self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm.

1. We fix the ebb (it can also be mounted at the very end). It is advisable to install the ebb under the window to prevent water seepage at the junction of the ebb with the window frame. But if it is not possible to fix the ebb under the frame, then we attach the ebb to the window frame with self-tapping screws for metal with a diameter of 4 mm, a length of 9 mm.
2. Pre-adjust window fittings. Windows are adjusted using hexagons in the area of ​​​​window hinges. As a result, the sash should open and close freely without touching the rest of the window. Plus, if you open the sash, then it should not close itself (as it usually happens with the refrigerator door) or open, but should remain in the position in which you left it. Sometimes a window, when closing / opening, can strike at the places where the locking fittings are installed. To fix this, you just need to unscrew the screw on this element and move the element itself 0.5-1 cm higher or lower.

1. We foam the gaps between the frame and the window opening.

Filling the space between the frame and the window opening with building foam

It is very important here that the filling be 100%, without voids and interruptions. At the same time, if the gap between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then it is desirable to foam several times with a break of 1-2 hours. Then the expansion of the foam is not a "disastrous" factor. And saves foam that would have to be cut off. If windows are installed at a temperature lower than +5 degrees, then winter or all-season mounting foam should be used. If the temperature is above + 5 degrees, then the usual summer polyurethane foam will do.

After the foam hardens, it must be covered from ultraviolet radiation. Since this can already be called part of the slope finishing work, this work can be postponed until the slope finishing. But if you do not plan to finish them at all, or, if you plan, but later than in a month, then it is better to close the foam immediately, since under the open rays of the sun the foam will become unusable. We close it either with a strong cement-sand mortar (cement: sand - 1: 2), or with tile glue (for example, Ceresit SM 11), or with a special tape PSUL(vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape). The only thing is that the tape is quite expensive (about $3 per m.p.), so the first two options are used more often.

Window sill installation

1. Usually window sills come in standard lengths and widths, i.e. with a margin in length and width. So it needs to be trimmed first. To do this, you can use an electric jigsaw, grinder, saw with small teeth.

Trimming the window sill to the desired level

1. Then we move the window sill to the stand profile (it should be). Then we set the window sill to a level, placing wooden blocks, pieces of eps, bricks or even laminate trimmings under it.

Installing a window sill by level

It is better to install the plugs so that they go into the wall. And it is advisable to stick them with super glue, since acrylic and silicone do not stick them.

As a result, your window sill should be level in two horizontal directions and not sag anywhere (check by pressing with your hand). Sometimes the window sill is installed with a slight slope "from the window". This is done so that the condensate that may form on the window does not flow under the window. And if you do such a slope, then it is very small, only about 3 degrees.

Loading a plastic window sill with a heavy object

If the window sill is not loaded, then the foam will bend it up.

Blowing construction foam cavity under a plastic window sill

1. 24 hours after foaming, the remaining foam protruding from the cavity under the windowsill is cut off with an ordinary clerical knife.

1. Sometimes, due to the unevenness of the window sill, after its installation, a small gap remains between the top of the window sill and the window frame. It needs to be filled with silicone. Wipe off silicone residue immediately with a rag. But given that silicone sometimes blackens with time due to fungus, and spoils the appearance of the window and window sill, it is better to prevent the appearance of such a gap. This can be done by screwing Z-shaped galvanized plates to the window sill profile before installing the window sill. Having rehearsed with trimming the window sill, you can achieve a snug fit of the window sill. Also, such plates simplify the exposure of the window sill.

Z-shaped plates made of galvanized steel for setting a snug fit between the window and the frame

Final window adjustment

Now you can screw the handle to the window and remove the protective tape from its surface. If the slopes are still to be finished, then it is better to remove the protective tape after they have been finished.

The most common mistakes when installing windows

There are few of them, but all of them ultimately affect the life of the window, as well as the convenience of its operation:

• The window is mounted with glazing beads outward. Such a mistake leads to the fact that you can easily and silently enter the house by simply removing the glazing beads from the window and removing the double-glazed windows.
• The window is not level. As a result, the window does not open and close properly.
• The mounting foam is not covered with anything and left open under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. As a result, the foam becomes unusable.

Open mounting foam

• They take measurements incorrectly, or simply fix the window low, and as a result, the window sill does not fit under the window. It has to be attached to the window frame.
• The window is not fixed with anything, simply by blowing out the space between the window frame and the opening with mounting foam. If the opening is with a quarter, then this leads, at most, to the appearance of cracks on the slopes, since the “foam” mount cannot even be called a mount. Such a connection is mobile, especially over time. If the window is without a quarter, then as a result the window may simply fall out, I am personally familiar with one such example. So it's important to remember - foam is not a fastener. The window must withstand loads and without foam.

I hope that this article will help you save money on installing plastic windows in your house, as well as do this simple job correctly and without errors so that your windows serve you for a long time. If you decide to turn to the services of an installation organization, then it will be easier for you to understand what the builders do at each stage of installation, which will allow you to control the process competently.

Note: All prices are for 2011.

Plastic window structures are rapidly replacing their wooden counterparts from the market. If you also decide to replace old windows with more modern designs, it will not hurt you to familiarize yourself with the instructions for installing new PVC windows yourself. Professional installers charge quite a lot of money for such work. Does it make sense to overpay if you can handle all the tasks yourself?

It is assumed that before starting the installation, you have already decided what size of windows will suit you, what configuration new systems should have, what fittings you will order, etc. Deal with the solution of these issues on your own or with the help of a consultant of the company to which you decide to entrust the manufacture of plastic windows.

Immediately before starting installation, you need to decide whether you will fasten the windows through the frame or use a method that involves the use of special fastening "lugs".

The first option is more common. However, it may seem inconvenient to you for the reason that before starting the installation, you will need to remove the hinged doors from the frame, and remove the double-glazed windows from the deaf doors.

The second option is more convenient for self-installation - you don’t have to disassemble anything, therefore, the risk of damage to the structure and violation of its tightness is minimized.

When choosing the second method, find yourself an intelligent assistant in advance. The window in the assembly weighs quite a lot, and installing it yourself is incredibly difficult.

Preparatory work

Right before the installation of PVC windows, you have to perform a number of important preparatory work.

Site preparation

When ordering windows, specify when they will be delivered to you. Start preparing the site shortly before the delivery of the windows.

First step. Move all furniture and appliances away from the window opening.

Second step. Cover the floor and radiators with a protective film or thick cloth.

Third step. Organize your workplace so that nothing interferes with you, and everything you need to install the window is at hand.

First step. Remove the sashes and dismantle the double-glazed windows if you prefer the method of fixing through the frame.

To remove the double-glazed window, carefully pry off the fastening bead with a simple chisel and, with a careful blow on the same chisel, snap the fastener out of the groove. First, pull out the vertical fixing glazing beads. Then, in the same order, get rid of the horizontal fasteners.

In order not to get confused in the future, be sure to mark the fasteners. Their size may differ slightly, but even a difference of a fraction of a millimeter will be enough for gaps to appear.

Second step. Tilt the window frame. The double-glazed window will independently come out of the mounting grooves. Carefully place the removed double-glazed window against a wall or other stable surface at an angle.

Third step. Remove the plugs from the canopies of the wings and unscrew the fixing bolts. Next, you need to release the upper part of the swing window sash. To do this, turn the knob "for ventilation". Get the hook located in the lower canopy.

As a result, you will get a “bare” frame with jumpers.

Fourth step. From the inside of the window frame, prepare holes for the anchor. Place holes around the perimeter of the product so that there are at least 3 attachment points on each side, and at least two at the bottom and top.

The diameter of the anchors for fixing windows is 0.8-1 cm. To create holes, use a drill of the same diameter.

If the plastic window is fixed using special "lugs", the disassembly of the structure can be ignored. In such a situation, all preparation comes down to fixing the fasteners from the kit to the frame with screws.

Video - How to remove glass from a PVC window

Window dismantling instructions

First step. Remove or tear out the sashes, depending on the design of the window.

Second step. File the box and frame at several points.

Third step. Pry off each part of the structure with a crowbar and remove the frame from the opening. In some situations, it is more convenient to immediately find two-hundred nails, due to which the window is held, and pull them out.

Fourth step. Remove the heat-insulating and sealing materials that appear under the box.

Fifth step. Dismantle the old slopes with a puncher. If the slopes are in good condition, you can not touch them. At this point, be guided by your plans for the further design of slopes.

Sixth step. Pry and dismantle the old window sill.

Seventh step. Get rid of the cement backing under the window sill and at the bottom of the window opening. A perforator will help you with this.

Eighth step. Collect construction debris in suitable containers and take it to the trash. Take the remains of the dismantled window there.

Ninth step. Align the ends of the opening, clean them of dirt. Prime surfaces.

Tenth step. Relevant only for residents of old wooden houses. Lay waterproofing material around the perimeter of the opening. In some situations, it is required to additionally install a wooden reinforcing box.

If necessary, the dimensions of the opening can be reduced with a cement screed. At this point, be guided by the conditions of your particular situation.

Installing and pinning a new window

Proceed with the installation of a pre-prepared window.

First step. Lay special plastic substrates or wooden blocks on the bottom end of the opening. Select the dimensions of the substrates in such a way that their upper faces are connected in a straight horizontal line.

Substrates are laid in the corners and in the center of the opening.

Second step. Install a “bare” or assembled frame on the substrates, depending on the window installation method you have chosen. The substrates do not need to be dismantled, they will continue to perform their supporting function.

Without substrates, the window can simply fall out. Anchors, no matter how often you check and tighten them, will still loosen under the weight of the structure. Therefore, for additional strengthening of the substrate system, it is necessary to place not only at the bottom, but also along the side faces, closer to the top of the opening.

Third step. Check the horizontal position of the window structure using an ordinary water level.

If deviations are found, add pegs or get rid of unnecessary elements of the substrate.

Fourth step. Check the vertical position of the window. The detected deviations are eliminated in the same way as in the previous step.

Fifth step. Proceed to fixing the window with anchors in accordance with the chosen method of fixing.

Fastening by the method "through the frame"

First step. Take a puncher and directly through the holes prepared in advance in the frame, drill similar holes for fasteners in the wall.

Second step. Fasten the lower part of the structure from two sides. To do this, you need to insert and fix the anchor, but you do not need to immediately complete the fastening to the end.

Third step. Make sure the window is vertical. Immediately correct the deviations according to the pattern already familiar to you. If everything is fine, drill holes in the center and top of the window frame with a puncher. Insert and tighten the anchor. Information about the required number of fasteners was given earlier.

Fourth step. Recheck the window for evenness. Get rid of deviations immediately if they are found.

Fifth step. Tighten the anchor all the way. Do not overtighten them, as the frame can be deformed from excessive tension.

Video - How to install a PVC window

Plate fastening

In this case, special plates will be used to fix the window. They are placed on one or two sides of the window block. The plates are made of thick metal and look like "ears". In such elements, holes for anchors are initially provided.

With this mounting method, you need to bend the mounting plate into a step. The "ear" of the plate should fit as closely as possible to the wall surface. The second part of the plate is bolted to the frame.

Fastening is carried out with the same anchors. The window is fixed in the same order: bottom first, then top and middle. At each stage of installation, be sure to check the evenness of the placement of the structure. Without respect for the vertical and horizontal levels, your window simply deforms over time.

Assembly and final check of the window

After fixing all the anchors, proceed to the assembly of the window, if you originally disassembled it. The process is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.

First step. Insert the double-glazed windows into the window frame and fix them with glazing beads, first at the top, then at the bottom, and finally on the sides. A rubber mallet will help you snap the glazing beads.

Second step. Hang back and fix the swing sashes accordingly. Follow the reverse order of dismantling them.

Make sure the flaps move normally. In the normal state, the sash does not make any unauthorized movements when it is opened 45 degrees and 90 degrees.

Third step. Complete the check and seal existing gaps between the walls and the newly installed window. Fill the gaps with special mounting foam in cylinders.

On this, the main work on the installation of PVC windows by hand is considered completed. In the end, you just have to install a plumb line, window sill, mosquito net and make slopes at your discretion.

Installing a window sill (Read the article about installing a window sill with your own hands). Wetting with water. Dedusting

Installing the window sill Laying out the cement mortar

Window sill installation. Wetting with water. Dedusting

Window sill installation. Alignment. Grout

Window sill installation. Drying

Window sill installation. Finished work

Successful installation work!

Nowadays, the trend of replacing old wooden windows with plastic ones is becoming more common. Such windows have a number of advantages that significantly distinguish them from their competitors. As a rule, installation of windows is carried out with the help of specialists who will cope with the task in a matter of hours. However, fast doesn't always mean good. Sometimes in a hurry, masters forget about various little things that they have to finish on their own in the future. To avoid such a "professional" installation, you can install plastic windows yourself. The main thing is to paint a clear action plan and follow all its points.

window measurements

The first step is to measure the width and height of the window opening. Width is the distance between the inner parts of the wall - the slopes. Height - the distance between the upper slope and the window sill. Based on the obtained dimensions, you can calculate the size of the window. From the resulting width, you need to subtract 3 cm (1.5 cm of the gap on each side). From the height you need to subtract 5 cm (1.5 cm of the gap from above and 3.5 cm to install the window sill).

The size of the window sill and the outer ebb is calculated taking into account a gap of 5-10 cm. During installation, both the window sill and the ebb are "recessed" into the window opening. The width of the window sill should be such that it does not overlap the heating radiator by more than 1/3. Slope measurements are carried out immediately after the windows are installed, since it is quite difficult to determine their size in advance.

Material selection

The selection of plastic windows is carried out immediately according to several criteria. First, you need to decide on the principle of fastening the frame. It is of two types:

• through the frame in the packing plane;
• using pre-mounted support reinforcement.

The first installation option is considered more reliable, but at the same time more difficult. The principle is to unpack the window. The glass is removed from the frame. Then the frame is inserted into the opening and attached to the wall with anchors. Double-glazed windows are reinserted into the finished frame. This method allows you to strengthen the window structure, however, during installation, the risk of damaging the glass increases.

The second way is to install windows without first unpacking them. In this case, metal plates are pre-attached to the window frame, with the help of which the window is mounted in the opening. This method is quite simple, but the reliability is much lower compared to the first option.

Another criterion when choosing plastic windows is the quality of the material. First, pay attention to the reinforcing profile, which serves as the basis of any window. It must be made exclusively from galvanized steel. If the window is made using another metal, then in the future it will become covered with rust and red streaks will appear on the window.

No less important is the choice of the double-glazed window itself. For unheated premises, you can choose a single-chamber package, for an apartment, house or office, it is better to give the room to two- or three-chamber models. The glass itself can be either plain or infrared-coated. IR glass, by the way, will be an excellent solution for windows that face east. Infrared rays are able to reflect heat, so even on the hottest summer days the room will be comfortable.

Preparatory work before installation

Before starting the installation of a new window, you need to dismantle the old one. This is done in stages. First, the glass is removed from the window frame, having previously prying off the glazing beads that hold it with a chisel. If this is not done during installation, the glass may break and injure you. Next, you need to cut the frame. This can be done both with the help of a conventional saw, and with the use of a grinder. However, it is worth remembering that the grinder can only be used if there is a diamond disc or a concrete disc. To avoid injury, it is strictly forbidden to use discs for wood and metal. Having cut the frame into pieces, you can begin to dismantle it, armed with a puncher, crowbar or nail puller.

The next step is to remove the old window sill and low tide. If they are wooden, then the same principle is used for dismantling as for the frame. The window sill or ebb must be sawn into several parts and pulled out one by one. With a concrete window sill, things are somewhat more complicated. You can remove it only by first breaking it into pieces with a jackhammer.

Having got rid of the old window, you can proceed to the finishing preparatory work. The window opening must be thoroughly cleaned of construction dust and debris formed during the dismantling process. This can be done with a conventional vacuum cleaner. It is also worth removing the remnants of the old insulation and foam.

After all the work carried out, the surface of the window opening must be treated with a primer. Further, in the lower part of the future window, the so-called stand profile is installed, to which the double-glazed window itself will be attached in the future. The profile is fixed with mounting foam.

window installation

If the method with unpacking the double-glazed window was chosen to install the plastic window, then the process will proceed as follows. The first step is to remove the glass from the window frame. To do this, carefully, one by one, all the glazing beads are removed, thanks to which the glass is held. Then the glass under a slight slope is smoothly removed from the frame. After unpacking the double-glazed window, it is better to immediately remove the glass to another room so as not to damage it during the installation of the frame.

To begin with, the window frame must be installed on pre-prepared wooden wedges. This is necessary so that the frame initially takes the desired position and does not move during installation.

Armed with a drill, holes are made in the frame for the anchor (three holes on each side). Having drilled all the holes, it is worth making sure that the frame has not shifted. To do this, you can use a plumb line and a laser level. It is better not to use a traditional bubble level, as it does not give the most accurate measurements.

After making sure that all indicators are normal, you can attach the window with anchors. To do this, using a puncher at the level of the holes already in the frame, you need to make a similar hole in the wall, at least 6 cm deep. Next, the anchors are fastened, starting from the bottom row. After each fixed anchor, the evenness of the window is rechecked.

At the stage of mounting the window frame, the ebb is also installed. It is attached to the stand profile, which was pre-installed under the frame. The edges of the tide need to be “drowned” a little into the wall, having previously made holes in it. At the end of the installation, all existing joints and cracks from the outer part of the window are sealed with sealant.

Having done all the above manipulations, glass can be inserted into the frame.

Installing a plastic window without unpacking is carried out according to a similar principle. The only difference of this process is that the package in this case is not disassembled, but mounted completely. The fastening of the window structure is carried out without the use of anchors, but with the help of special plates.

As in the first case, a double-glazed window is installed on a pre-prepared support profile and wooden wedges. The window is then leveled and checked with a level. Plates of durable metal are screwed to the window profile with self-tapping screws. They can be linear or U-shaped. The distance between the plates should not exceed 7 cm.

The plates have so-called tails with holes for anchors. During installation, the tails must be bent and pressed tightly against the wall. A dowel is inserted into the existing hole and mounted into the wall with a drill. Anchor fastening in this case is carried out in the direction from the bottom up. At each stage of screwing in the dowels, the window is checked for leveling.

Mounting the window sill

Installation of a metal-plastic window sill begins with its trimming. The shape of the window sill should be such that it easily enters the side openings and at the same time is in close contact with the lining profile. Between the side walls of the window frame and the window sill, you need to leave a small gap (about 1 cm), which will later be closed by slopes.

Having placed the window sill in the right way, you can proceed to its fasteners. To do this, several wooden wedges are inserted under the window sill, which will protect it from displacement. Then the space formed under it is filled with mounting foam or cement mortar. At the same time, you need to put some kind of load on the window sill itself to form a slight slope. This manipulation is necessary to remove condensate.

When the foam or mortar hardens, the window sill is attached to the window frame. This is done using self-tapping screws on the inside of it.

slopes

Making slopes is the final stage in the installation of metal-plastic windows. You can make them either using drywall or using PVC panels.

Drywall slopes are beneficial in cases where the surface of the inside of the window opening cannot be leveled. Such slopes are made as follows:

• a special L-shaped profile is attached along the edge of the window frame;
• the inside of the profile is filled with sealant;
• pre-prepared strips of drywall are inserted into the grooves of the profile;
• the empty space between the wall and drywall is filled with mineral wool;
• the points of contact of the slopes with the wall are lubricated with glue.

Slopes made of PVC panels are mounted somewhat easier, but they should only be used on perfectly flat surfaces. It is done like this:

• strips of the required size are cut from PVC panels;
• with the help of liquid nails, the blanks are attached to the working surface;
• the ends and joints between the slopes are closed with special plastic corners.

Plastic windows are considered aesthetic, functional, reliable and solid constructions. Due to these qualities, they have become widespread. Currently, plastic windows continue to gain popularity. Installation of structures, as a rule, is carried out by the company where the order was made. Specialists, of course, know how to properly install metal-plastic windows. To carry out the work, professionals have at their disposal all the necessary tools.

Before installing plastic windows, make measurements. They are also carried out by specialists of the selected company. This work is not recommended to be carried out independently. This is due to the fact that the block will be manufactured along the opening. Inaccuracies in measurement can cause the structure to stand unevenly, or there will be difficulties with its fastening. But if the measurements are best entrusted to a professional, then the installation of the module can be carried out by the home master himself. How to install a plastic window? Let's figure it out in the article.

General information

It used to be that it was very difficult to mount a plastic window with your own hands. As a rule, they entrusted this matter to a professional. Nevertheless, now many consumers decide to mount the plastic window themselves. Do-it-yourself installation allows you to significantly reduce costs - up to 70 USD. e. But at the same time, fastening the structure requires certain knowledge. Next, we will analyze in stages how to properly install a plastic window.

Preliminary calculation of dimensions

The decision to mount a plastic window with your own hands is a very responsible one. In this case, the correct selection of the design and the quality of the work are of great importance. Before installing metal-plastic windows, measurements should be made, as already noted.

Important Features

It should be noted that there are two types of window openings. There is a quarter, and there is without it. A quarter of the window opening is a kind of ledge stretching along the entire perimeter of the window. For accurate sizing, these features must be taken into account. Let's consider them in more detail.

quarter design

In this case, the size of the window block can be determined by the following algorithm. It is necessary to measure the width of the corresponding opening between the quarters. This should be done in the narrowest place. Up to 40 mm should be added to the measurements obtained. Thus, the value of the width of the structure will be obtained. Additional verification is also required. In this case, the width of the window opening and the distance between its vertical quarters are compared. The first must be greater than the second.

The height of the window is also easy to measure. To do this, it is necessary to calculate the distance from the upper quarter to the lower plane of the opening. The desired value will be the resulting size.

Second option

In this case, we mean a window that will be installed in an opening without a quarter. It is quite easy to get the overall values. To do this, subtract 50 mm from the vertical size of the opening. This is done in order to be able to install a window sill. Also, 30 mm must be subtracted from the size of the horizontal opening. In addition, it is required to determine the dimensions of the window sill and low tide. It doesn't take much effort to do this. However, certain factors must be taken into account:

• The width of the tide is calculated taking into account the proposed sheathing or insulation of building envelopes. It is required that it protrudes from the plane of the wall at a distance of up to 100 mm.
• The width of the window sill should be calculated taking into account its functional features. For example, some will want to install flower pots and so on. Basically, the element is selected so that its free part can block the heating radiators.
• The length of the window sill is calculated approximately 100 mm more than the width of the window opening. Thus, the edges of the window sill should go into the cavity of the slope. The recommended minimum is 50 mm.

Module

The next step is to place an order in a specialized store. First of all, you should specify the size of a suitable block. It is also necessary to take into account the following indicators:

1. Window profile type.
2. Type of glass.
3. Mounting elements.
4. Associated accessories.

Dismantling works

Before installing PVC windows, you should prepare the opening. The beginning of installation work in the operated premises is impossible without the removal of old structures. It is worth noting that this procedure requires accuracy and thoroughness. There is a very high risk of injury. In addition, care must be taken to ensure that the product does not fall out. This is especially true in high-rise buildings.

Algorithm for deleting an old structure

• First of all, it is required to free the window unit from opening windows and sashes.
• The structure must be free of all glass. In this case, all retaining glazing beads are first removed.
• Further, in the horizontal and vertical elements of the frame, it is required to make cuts. It is advisable to use a hacksaw or grinder with a cutting wheel for concrete.
• Then you need to remove the structure from the opening. To do this, you can use such improvised means as a mount, crowbar or hammer.
• In certain situations, the structure can be removed without deformation. In particular, this applies to those cases where the consumer wants to maintain the integrity of the frame. It is worth noting that this removal option will require great skill. In addition, this process will take quite a long time.
• The frame is not the only element to be removed. This also needs to be done with an external ebb and a window sill.
• At the final stage, the opening should be cleaned of dust and debris.

Mounting diagram

Following the technology, it is enough just to fix the plastic window. Do-it-yourself installation is carried out in several stages. In this case, it will be necessary to implement a number of relevant measures.

initial stage

Before installing PVC windows, you should prepare the structure. This applies in particular to the mounting plates. They should be located on the top and sides of the frame (toward the end). Mounting plates play a very important role. In the future, the entire structure will be held on them in a given position. Most specialists prefer to use hangers for this purpose. They, in turn, are widely used in the installation of drywall systems. Nevertheless, in this case, the most appropriate is the use of reinforcing mounting plates. The fact is that they are distinguished by high mechanical strength.

Irreplaceable self-tapping screws

When installing the mounting strips, care must be taken. They are fixed on the end of the frame. It is necessary to ensure that the fastener enters the metal profile of the window unit. At this stage, it is very important to prevent deformation of the double-glazed window. The plates are fastened with self-tapping screws. They are selected taking into account the size of the window unit.

The standard design involves the use of self-tapping screws, which will have a diameter of 4 mm. A larger window block requires other fasteners. In this case, it is advisable to use products having a diameter of up to 6 mm. Anchor strips must be fixed in the end part of the frame. The recommended step of their location is up to 80 cm. The indent from the corners of the structure should be within 100-150 mm.

Structure position adjustment

Speaking about how to properly install a PVC window, it should be said about the alignment of the module. It is carried out after the preparation of the window block. This procedure may seem quite simple at first glance. However, a lot depends on the correctness of its implementation. The installation of the block is best done in pairs. One person will maintain the structure while the other will carry out the procedure. Aligning the window frame involves installing the unit in a pre-prepared opening. It is also recommended to take care of the wedges in advance. With the help of them, the position of the module is regulated.

Highlights of adjustment

When performing work, you must be guided by the following recommendations:

1. The design is wedged not only at the bottom. This is also done on the sides.
2. All vertical elements must be aligned in the same plane.
3. If there is an impost, then the wedges should be located under it.

The PVC window is leveled. After that, the fixing process begins. Anchor plates are attached to the cavity of the window opening. This is done using special bolts and dowels. It is very important that the elements are fixed on the building envelope. Thus, it may be necessary to remove the plaster that is located where the anchor plates will be located.

Design assembly features

Of course, the easiest way to mount a window in the analysis, without a sash. It is fixed before starting the sealing of the seams. How to install a plastic window sash? Before hanging, it is recommended to put decorative caps on the hinges. Doing this after installing the sash will be inconvenient. In addition, the handle must be moved to the open (horizontal) position. To install the sash, it is first put on the lower hinge, and a corner loop is inserted into the upper one. The elements are fixed with a pin. It should be pushed up until the latch is released. In order for the pin to easily enter the hole, the sash at this moment should be pressed (or almost pressed) against the frame.

Seam sealing

Speaking about how to properly install a plastic window, it should be said about the sealing of the structure. So, the block is well fixed. Next, the assembly joints are sealed. For this, a special foam is used. At this stage, certain material properties must be taken into account. When hardened, they increase in volume. Thus, work must be carried out with the sash closed. You can open it only a day after the installation is fully completed. The use of foam also has its own characteristics. In this case, it is worth considering the humidity and temperature indicators. Before applying the foam directly, prepare the surface. It needs to be moistened with water.

How to install a window sill

The plastic element must be securely fixed. For this, mounting foam is used. Before installing the window sill, the plastic element must first be cut to the required size. To do this, it is best to use a hacksaw with fine teeth or a grinder. The product is closely installed to the stand profile. The window sill must be level. Wedges are used for this. It is worth noting that a slight bias is quite acceptable. Condensate drain is implied. However, the slope should not exceed 3 degrees.

The free plane, which is located between the underside of the element and the opening, must be filled with foam. Exclusion of window sill deformation is required. It often occurs due to the expansion of the foam. This requires the installation of weights (5 kg) on ​​the windowsill. They should be in three different locations. This is done immediately before foaming.

High-quality installation of a window sill requires the following rules:

• Z-plates must be fixed to the support profile. This will allow you to achieve a tighter fit of the product to the frame.
• Special recesses are made in the opening. This is necessary in order to position the window sill outside the slope.
• The gap located between the block and the product must be sealed. This is done with silicone.
• The end caps are attached with superglue.

Here's how to install a plastic window sill correctly.

Low tide installation

The above are the main recommendations on how to properly install a plastic window. Installation of the ebb, as a rule, is considered final. Initially, the element must be cut according to the specified size. The use of metal shears is recommended. Only then can the tide be fixed. To do this, you need to use at least three screws.

How to install plastic slopes yourself

It is worth noting that when hiring professionals, you will have to spend a large amount on this type of work. In addition, in this case, the quality is not always commensurate with the price. First of all, you need to do the selection of suitable material. It is recommended to use window sills. They will sit very tight. Such slopes are very durable. In addition, they are quite difficult to scratch. It is worth noting that the curved edge will save the owners from having to look at the peeling wallpaper, which is very common at the joints.

Many craftsmen offer their customers the installation of slopes from sandwich panels. This material is quite thin. It should be noted that in most cases the slope has a completely non-ideal surface. Often there are concave areas and bulges. It is recommended to put plastic corners at the junction with the wall. However, they often peel off. In addition, their joint docking leaves much to be desired.

Tools

Before installing plastic slopes, it is worth arming yourself with all the necessary devices. Among them:

1. Screwdriver.
2. Perforator (impact drill).
3. Mounting gun (for foam).
4. Electric jigsaw.
5. A saw with a sharp tooth.

It is not difficult to calculate the amount of material required. It is necessary to measure the length of the window sills and sides of each window. This also applies to the balcony door. It is best to determine the required amount of materials for installation together with a consultant. In addition, a count of end caps is required.

Also, do not forget about the following elements:

1. Self-tapping screws with a press washer.
2. Hangers.
3. Dowel-nails.
4. Professional polyurethane foam.

The number of all of the above products is calculated depending on the parameters of specific window frames.

Mounting process

It is recommended to carefully measure the distance from the wall to the frame. 4 cm must be added to the obtained value. Thus, the slope will be led behind the frame. Sawing is recommended to be done with a jigsaw. In this case, you need to leave a small margin for overlapping the wall. After completing work with the slope, it is the turn of the fasteners of the elements that are fixed directly on it. In this case, suspensions are used. It is recommended to purchase them in advance. Two corners come out of one suspension, which attach the slope to the wall. They are fixed at a distance of about 35-40 cm from each other. For this, self-tapping screws with a press washer are used.

In the event that the top element is small, only one mounting bracket can be used. Slope fitting required. This must be done after all the elements are fixed. It is required to note the location of the mounting bracket. Further, this place is poddalblivaetsya. A corner is sunk into it. It will need to be plastered later. After applying the foam, the slope must be carefully brought behind the frame. Then you need to fix the corner. In this case, you can use a hammer drill or impact drill. Fastening is carried out using a dowel-nail.

Next, proceed to the side slopes. In some cases, they need to be "opened" a little. This requires drawing a perpendicular along the window sill and the upper slope. This is done with a large square. Side slopes are bred from the resulting straight line. The distance must be the same. It should be noted that open slopes have a more attractive appearance.

Similar elements that are at right angles to the frame look different. In this case, the fastening of the slopes occurs in the same way. It is worth noting that their main advantage is rigidity. Thus, they do not need spacers and other similar devices. Unfortunately, sandwich panel slopes do not have such properties.