Two-story extension to a one-story brick house. An extension to the house - how to quickly and inexpensively make it from available materials. Wooden beam base

Solving the housing issue with your own private house is much easier than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:

• a full-fledged living quarters - an additional room;
• living quarters with an attic (if the extension is two-story);
• utility room - its own pantry, which can largely replace the cellar;
• a spacious terrace or veranda where you can spend your holidays with the whole family;
• car garage.

Below we will consider the basics of technology and step-by-step instructions for creating an extension to a wooden house.

Before choosing a specific building material and technology for building an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the room. It may be worthwhile to immediately plan the creation of an extension in which it will be possible to live all year round - in case of an expansion of the family or the arrival of a large number of guests.

Types of extensions

There are several types of extensions to a wooden house. They differ in material, as well as installation features:

1. frame extensions;
2. from a cylindrical bar;
3. from brick;
4. from cinder block.

Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that may affect the choice of materials and a specific type of extension:

To make the right choice of a specific extension project means to correctly correlate the purpose of this structure, the features of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. To do this, it is important to understand how each type of such structures is built.

Do-it-yourself frame extension: step by step instructions and video

The frame extension has several advantages:

• the design is quite simple, and if everything is calculated correctly, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
• it is built much faster than brick, cinder block structures;
• the design is quite light in weight and does not require much effort during operation;
• in terms of thermal insulation, durability and other consumer qualities, the frame extension to the house is not inferior to others types of structures.

NOTE. If you intend to build a two-story extension, you should consider this option - the structure is lightweight and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risks of subsidence are noticeably reduced.

Preparation for construction

At the preparatory stage, it is important to solve the following tasks:

• What will be the frame material - wooden beams or metal profiles.
• What type of extension will be associated with the main building.
• Accurately calculate all dimensions of the structure and develop a detailed drawing.
• Collect all necessary materials and tools.

First of all, it is important to decide on what type the structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof for the installation of a single roof or as an adjoining building.

It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, easier and faster - the extension will simply adjoin the wall. You can make access from the house directly to it, if you make an appropriate hole and put the door.

The diagram of the adjoining structure to the house is presented below.

Structurally, this solution is a roof placed on supports. The roof is standardly presented from rafters and supporting boards. For a longer service life, it is desirable to insulate it, lay out a layer of waterproofing. The basis, as a rule, is the usual strip foundation.

Pairing with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:

• wall;
• roof.

The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. A preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical advice that should be considered before starting work:

At the same time, for the roof of the extension, it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated board (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.

In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles, metal tiles will not work.

The frame is made of wood or metal. At the same time, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension is more reliable and lasts longer.

NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but old enough, the rate of its drawdown will be several times higher than the drawdown of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of abutment of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - "groove-comb".

As for tools, no special equipment is required: it is important to have a screwdriver, a saw, pliers, a building level and other woodworking tools.

Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require joint efforts.

Foundation laying

The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since in the overwhelming majority of cases, during the construction of a house, the construction of a foundation for an extension is not provided, the foundation must not only be laid correctly, but also securely connected to the main foundation.

NOTE. If you are designing the construction of a newly built house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. It can be made after some time, and laying the foundation along with the foundation of the main building is a technically correct option. In this case, the house and the extension will be a single entity, which will ensure their reliability.

The main requirements for the base of the extension are as follows:

• reliability - stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially important for extensions made of heavy materials or two-story structures;
• maximum identity with the main foundation in terms of material and depth of laying;
• the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.

Most often, strip foundations are chosen for an extension, since they are quite capable of coping with such loads. At the same time, installation features always depend on the type of soil. It is possible to lay monolithic foundations, made of brick or concrete blocks, fill them with drainage materials.

Schematic diagrams of the bases are shown in the figure.

The technology for building a strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and poured with concrete.

Connecting the foundation to the main

This is the most critical step. which needs special attention. Two types of connections are traditionally used:

• "tape-tape";
• "slab-slab".

According to the "tape-tape" type, the stages of work will be as follows:

1. From the installation side of the extension, a trench is dug corresponding to the depth of laying the main foundation.
2. Further, a hole half a meter in diameter is drilled at the base of the house - for the corners of the foundation of the extension. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
3. The reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the house, for this a wood wedge is used.
4. The foundation of the extension is formed along the driven reinforcement.

Installation according to the "plate-plate" scheme is possible in 2 cases:

• the width of the main foundation allows you to carry out the appropriate work (from 450 mm);
• the plate protrudes from the base (minimum 300 mm).

Thanks to the extension, it is often possible to solve another important task - to strengthen the old foundation and thereby support the sagging house. Visual video instructions:

Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:

Installation of the floor in the annex

Correctly making the floor in the future room is important from the point of view of 2 factors:

• thermal insulation;
• surface evenness.

It is important to make a quality floor, especially if the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round use.

The strip foundation allows you to mount both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is possible to produce only a wooden covering.

Concrete floor

The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:

The concrete surface is quite cold, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.

Wooden floor

On a columnar or strip foundation, a floor created on the basis of wooden floors is excellent. It needs additional treatment to prevent rotting, but wood flooring is much warmer than concrete.

The sequence of installation of a wooden floor looks like this:

1. If an extension to the house is being built as a permanent structure, then preparatory work is carried out for laying sand, crushed stone or expanded clay, as is the case with a concrete floor.
2. A ruberoid substrate is placed on the foundation.
3. Bearing beams are laid on it. If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the poles, the length is cut in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate posts at a certain interval, or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
4. A wooden covering is mounted on the beams.

All wooden parts must be carefully varnished to prevent decay.

A good example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.

Frame installation

The next stage is connected with the direct erection of the frame structure. To do this, first of all, you need to install a strapping beam. If it is assumed that the wall thickness is 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.

The end result is a structure that looks like this.

Cutting a groove in the base can be done complete and incomplete. Can be articulated without punching using a steel angle.

The lower strapping is performed in several stages:

1. The socket is mounted in a frame.
2. The overlay is nailed into the base.
3. The support stand is attached with a bracket.

The upper trim is formed for reliable installation of floor beams, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. The interval between vertical supports must be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be easy to lay insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.

The general design of the frame is shown in the diagram.

The walls are erected according to the following algorithm:

• Installation on the foundation of a pre-made lower trim. The binding is screwed with dowels.

Between the strapping and the foundations, a waterproofing layer is necessarily placed - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material.

• Vertical bars are nailed to the wall of the house if the two structures are to be rigidly fastened. If you just need to build a nearby building, then corner posts with temporary fastening are first made.
• Mounted vertical bars. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection with the main roof of the house.
• Next, the top trim is mounted.
• The last stage in the installation is the manufacture of holes for windows and doors.

ADVICE. If it is planned to build a large extension with a large number of beams, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately by installing all the beams on the lower harness. In this case, there is no need to fasten each element with temporary cuts.

Assembly of the roof and its docking with the main roof

Installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a conventional roof, however, the need to connect the roof to the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.

In general, the finished structure can be schematically depicted as follows.

After the construction of the frame, the material of the roof of the house from the side of the extension must be dismantled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the principle of a rigid triangle, while it is important to put an additional beam in front of an acute angle (indicated by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve as an additional measure of protection during snowfalls, so they are also called anti-snow supports.

The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:

1. The rafters from the extension are mounted with the upper trim of the frame.
2. The upper end of the rafters is connected to the purlin, which is pre-installed on the roof or mounted directly on the roof rafters.

Video editing features

NOTE. It is not necessary to connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid way. This can damage the structure due to uneven shrinkage rates of the main room and extension. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding structure that provides free movement of the lower support.

Roof finishing and insulation

At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. If the roof of the extension will simply adjoin the wall of the house, and not organically connect with its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.

Construction and wall insulation

One of the last stages is the construction of walls and their insulation. The extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for household purposes, it is important to create good enough insulation so that temperature changes cannot damage the internal surfaces of the walls and ceiling.

Schematically, the structure of the wall can be represented as follows.

In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be carried out:

• finishing work inside the extension:
• exterior cladding of the building;
• creating a transition to the house;
• production of windows and doors in the building;
• all necessary communications.

It is important to treat all wooden structures with special solutions that prevent rotting and the harmful effects of temperature changes.

Timber extension

The principal stages of building an extension (filling the foundation, building walls and installing a roof, followed by insulation and finishing work) do not depend on the choice of a specific construction material. However, depending on it, their own technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.

Foundation construction

In the case of an extension from a bar (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame counterpart, respectively, the base is required to be more reliable.

A tiled foundation or a pile foundation is often used, less often a tape foundation (for small outbuildings it is quite suitable). In any case, it is necessary that it be settled for at least 1 year.

From the point of view of simplicity and cheaper work, the best option would be to create a pile foundation that can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.

Video - the basics of pile foundation installation technology

Walling

Building walls is quite simple in terms of technology. The only drawback of the beam is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it together.

Mounting materials are used as follows:

staples and plates made of metal;

• brackets;
• steel corners;
• screws, screws, nails.

The technology of laying a round beam during the construction of an extension to the house:

Other works

The technology of building walls, insulation and finishing is not fundamentally different from that described earlier.

In the case of building a structure from a bar, two-story structures can be easily made. Of course, in this case, special requirements are placed on the foundation and floors.

Brick outbuilding

Brick extensions to a wooden house are built less often. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.

Most often, in such cases, a monolithic foundation is used. At the same time, a brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of a second floor of the same kind or an attic. Installation of the floor and roof technology does not have fundamental differences from those discussed above.

cinder block extension

And another cheaper and faster option for building an extension to a wooden or other house is from cinder blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.

The construction of a cinder block structure is very fast due to the large size of the building material. This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy, a veranda.

And finally - a brief video review of the main stages of the construction of a frame extension to a wooden house.

Most projects of individual houses provide only a residential part without additional outbuildings. Over time, residents, in the presence of free space near the house, often need to expand the structure with their own hands or with the involvement of qualified specialists. This can be due to a variety of reasons, such as an increase in the number of residents, the purchase of a car that will require a garage, and other circumstances. Annex - an auxiliary part of the building, which is adjacent to its main walls from one or more sides.

Varieties of attached buildings

The building can be:

1. Open, in the form of a canopy adjacent to the main wall, a summer veranda, porch or terrace.
2. closed:
   • living room with panoramic windows;
   • several additional living rooms;
   • kitchen with barbecue and dining area;
   • a separate recreation area, a children's play complex or a sports gym;
   • insulated garage;
   • workshop with pantries;
   • sanitary unit with a swimming pool or bath;
   • Russian bath or sauna, made mainly from wooden logs or timber as an extension to wooden houses;
   • greenhouses for year-round cultivation of vegetables, a greenhouse or a winter garden;
   • to accommodate boiler equipment for heating.
3. Superstructure in the form of an attic, provided that the bearing capacity of the existing foundation allows such an increase in load.

Depending on the purpose, a heated warm annex is arranged or without heating.

Required approvals

An extension project to a private house can be ordered from specialized design organizations or developed independently. To change the design of the building, it is necessary to obtain a building permit from the local administrative authorities, which is necessary, as well as for the construction of the main house. The project should be coordinated with bodies a dignity. and fire supervision, communal department. If the distances from the border with neighboring plots, regulated by building codes, are not observed, a written agreement of the neighbors is necessary, preferably notarized. The illegality of the construction of an extension is also recognized in the absence of a written consent of all the co-owners of the building to carry out the work.

It should be borne in mind that a work permit is issued only with the existing registration of rights to own a land plot and a house in Rosreestr, taking into account in the state cadastre. In the absence of the necessary approvals, the structure may be declared illegal and subject to demolition. It is not necessary to obtain a permit for the construction of simple sheds or a porch.

Structures and materials for the construction of the superstructure of buildings

The added part should harmoniously fit into the overall interior of the house. A two-story extension to a one-story building will look ridiculous, which, moreover, will significantly complicate construction. It is recommended to use for the construction of walls the same materials from which the main structure is built. For an extension to a wooden house, use wood, and brick brick. You can use foam or aerated concrete blocks, and for a harmonious combination with the design of the house, veneer under a tree or brick. A high or turning porch, as well as open verandas and terraces, must be framed with a railing.

It is desirable to build the foundation of a capital extension to an old house of the same type as the one existing under the main building. Of course, for the construction of a simple canopy, porch or open veranda, there is no need for a powerful foundation. In most cases, a columnar foundation with a small laying depth or screw piles is sufficient.

For capital buildings and garages, reliable and durable foundation structures are needed. Mainly prefabricated and monolithic tapes or a monolithic slab. When using poles and screw piles, it is mandatory to tie with a grillage, and to protect the space under the floor, pick up from the cladding with basement siding with insulation from basalt mineral wool or other similar heaters. On the top of the foundation, horizontal waterproofing is required from rolled waterproofing materials (stekloizol, hydroisol, rubemast or roofing material).

A good option is a frame extension to the house. The frame is constructed from wooden blocks filled with insulation (for example, mineral wool boards) and lined with thick moisture-resistant plywood, OSB boards or other materials. The attached building can be made with window openings. The doorway is more convenient internal, which allows passage to the attached part without going outside. But it is also possible to enter the device directly from the street.

The roof is most often arranged single-pitched. It is important to ensure that snow does not accumulate at the junction, so the roof is made with a slope angle of ≥ 25 degrees. The canopy is most often covered with sheets of monolithic polycarbonate or ondulin.

The floor, depending on the purpose of the room, can be concrete (mainly in garages, workshops and storerooms), wood, lined with porcelain stoneware or tiles. Often arranged "warm floors".

The walls of the garage are recommended to be built from non-combustible products (brick, concrete or lightweight concrete blocks) with overlapping with reinforced concrete slabs or corrugated board. Be sure to provide a number of ventilation holes.

How to make an adjoining extension to the house

The connection of an existing building with an extension is one of the most crucial moments of construction. If construction technologies are not observed, cracks will inevitably form in the junctions with opening up to large cracks. This is caused by the difference in the existing loads and the complete absence or slowdown of the settlement of the foundation of the old house.

Attachment of the attached part is carried out in the following two options:

1. With an expansion joint without direct contact between foundations, walls and roofs. It is recommended in the presence of problem soils (peat or clay). A gap is provided between the constructs, which is later filled with elastic heat and waterproofing materials. It is permissible to lay a board treated with several layers of bituminous mastic. The resulting seam is closed with decorative inserts. Be sure to eliminate the possibility of the formation of "snow bags" on the roof at the interface.
2. Inclusion of all constructs in joint work. The new foundation is arranged with occurrence at the same depth as the existing one. It is applied at the bases from the soils which are not subject to heaving. The contacting surface of the old one is cleaned of soil, a layer of waterproofing, and a notch is made with a perforator. Reinforcing bars are tightly hammered into the drilled holes with sealing of the holes. The obtained mortgages are connected by welding with the reinforcing cage of the extension foundation, and concreting is carried out with a thorough compaction of the mixture using a deep vibrator. Brick walls are connected in the same way. The rods are placed every two rows in the seams of the new masonry. Wooden structures are tightened with steel bolts or studs with double-sided thread, complete with wide washers, nuts and locknuts. To pair the roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roofing and jointly fasten the rafters and beams of the house and the extension with the addition of new additional nodes and racks. In some cases, it may be necessary to build a common truss system or replace elements of greater length.

The second option is more complex, laborious and costly, although it cannot be guaranteed that the joint of the joints will not disperse over time.

Depending on the design, materials of the existing house and the purpose of the attached premises, the foundation type, material and thickness of the walls, the truss system and roofing materials for the new building are selected.

Before deciding how to build an extension, it is necessary to foresee all the possible nuances of future construction and to ensure that you protect yourself from possible administrative sanctions.

Advantages of an extension compared to a freestanding building

• Reducing the scope of work on the supply of engineering communications (electricity, water supply, heating, sewerage, ventilation).
• Less material consumption and cost of construction, since at least one existing wall is used.
• Rational use of the territory without cluttering with additional buildings.
• Additional insulation that prevents the penetration of cold air directly into the house with a decrease in heat loss.

Expanding the useful area of ​​a private house with the help of an additional extension allows you to solve a lot of problems, first of all, to increase the usable area and increase the level of comfort. An extension to a wooden house is easier to formalize legally than a new building, and it can be built much cheaper than if you rebuild the entire box of the house. It is only necessary to choose the right project to make the wooden extension box one with the building box.

Features of planning an extension to a wooden house

Let the simplicity and modest size of the attached premises not be misleading. Not so simple. Experienced craftsmen recommend taking the problem of arranging an extension to a wooden house as seriously as if you had to build a real house or make another floor.

There are two "narrow" moments in the extension design:

• It is necessary to properly plan and make a junction of two foundations. It is not enough to build an additional base for an extension, you also need to make it safe so that a small foundation does not cause settlement or deformation of the walls;
• Choose the shape and method of attaching the extension truss system to the box of a wooden house. Depending on the chosen project, part of the roof of a wooden house will have to be dismantled in order to build one common slope or make it in a broken pattern.

It is no more difficult to build walls, cut windows, doorways, lay the floor in an extension, hang insulation and perform decorative trim, equipping a ceiling is no more difficult than when building an ordinary house.

The most interesting type of extension to the house is made with a sliding front wall. If necessary, the room can be easily transformed into a living room or made into a summer kitchen.

Extensions to a wooden house: types, purpose

Of course, building planning begins with the general idea of ​​​​building an additional room. Most often, the owners decide to build a separate room, floor or even part of a wooden house in order to allocate additional living space for guests or family members, equip a recreation area, make a utility room or install additional boiler equipment.

A modern wooden house is considered a rather complex structure. After assembly, the wooden house adjusts to the foundation for a long time, the walls and crowns shrink. In order to build a strong and stable extension to a building from a bar or log, it will take at least a year of waiting.

Traditionally, the owners prefer to make an extension of:

• aerated concrete blocks;
• Profiled timber;
• Red or silicate brick;
• Sip panels or homemade wooden shields.

One of the most popular trends is the use of glass or polycarbonate panels. Double-glazed windows provide good thermal insulation, and excess sunlight makes it possible to make the extension room in the form of a closed veranda or winter garden.

Often, an extension has to be built by blocking windows in a wooden house with walls. A transparent roof or a polycarbonate wall solves the problem of shading the living space.

Frame house extension

If you want to build an additional room to a wooden house in the shortest possible time, it is best to make an extension in the form of a frame-panel structure. At first glance, the frame scheme looks very complicated: a lot of wooden racks and lintels sheathed with OSB boards, plywood and tongue and groove board. In fact, making the frame of an extension to a wooden house is not difficult even for a novice carpenter.

The wireframe has its advantages:

• The light weight of the extension makes it possible to make a simple and inexpensive pile foundation instead of the traditional strip foundation. The time needed to build an additional building is reduced from two to three weeks to a few days;
• The cost of building a frame extension is about half of the cost of a similar structure made of timber or aerated concrete;
• The frame extension, with a small weight, has high rigidity due to the use of a large number of struts and struts;
• Thanks to the use of an openwork power scheme of the frame, the attached room can be quite large, even two floors;
• Even if a wooden house is equipped with a complex sloping roof, it is much easier to build a full-fledged roof for an extension and connect it to the truss system of the building than if the attached box is made of brick or foam block.

In the form of a frame extension, you can make a warmed veranda, a bathhouse and even a rest room. If a wooden house is placed on a concrete strip foundation, huge window openings can be made in the attached room, turning it into a studio or dining room.

The frame scheme of the extension is ideal for building an attic room on the second floor of a wooden house. Even if the building is built of logs, modern insulation materials provide comfortable living conditions in winter.

Ideally, the frame extension should be built on a strip concrete foundation. It may not be the cheapest way to build additional space, but using MZLF provides several tangible benefits:

• Firstly, the concrete tape significantly enhances the rigidity of the frame extension. An exception may be the options when a wooden house for a number of reasons had to be made on a pile foundation;
• Secondly, a rigid base will exclude the manifestation of such unpleasant phenomena as wall skew or settlement of door and window openings, even if the windows in the extension are made half a wall.

If you correctly tie the concrete tape under the extension to the base of the wooden house, then regardless of the shrinkage processes, there will never be gaps or gaps between the walls of the house and the attached building, which are typical for heavy brick and stone structures.

But there is one limitation, experts do not recommend building frame rooms on concrete strip foundations in conditions of heavily watered soils. In addition to the forces of frost heaving, which deform the base of the attached premises, the wooden frame extension, even when waterproofing is used, is quite sensitive to ground moisture.

One example of solving a similar problem in the construction of frame extensions is the joint construction of an extension and an open terrace on a foundation of a grillage or pile type.

A huge shield terrace made of larch or polymer board is installed on a foundation of screw piles, photo. The strength and rigidity of the pile foundation field is enough to build a huge frame structure on the terrace with just huge windows. The wooden walls of the house and the attached premises are covered with ventilated siding with a natural stone finish.

Extension to the house of foam blocks

Using a foam block greatly simplifies the task. The light weight of the wall block allows you to build extension boxes of various shapes and sizes. The only essential condition is the use of the most rigid foundation. Even if, before the construction of the extension, the wooden house was built on piles, the foam concrete box must be installed on the MZLF.

Due to the low rigidity of the foam concrete masonry, the attached room is usually extended along one of the walls of a wooden house. This allows you to make the extension sufficiently stable without internal lintels and walls. A wooden house due to an extension, as it were, increases in length.

Wooden and foam concrete walls need protection from rain and frost, most often with the help of external cladding made of clapboard or siding. In this case, the dimensions of the attached box are adjusted to the dimensions of the wooden house so that after laying the siding or ventilated facade, the building looks like a single monolithic building.

The foam block, easy to process and fit, makes it relatively easy to build an extension box of the most intricate shape and configuration. For example, if you can build a closed veranda on the entire wall of the house, while making part of the extension in the form of a bay window.

The construction of an extension from foam blocks on the entire wall of a wooden house is possible only if an additional concrete strip can be added to the strip foundation of the building for the attached room.

In addition, the walls of foam blocks at the level of window openings must be reinforced with a reinforcing belt made of a metal profile. The easiest way is to make a belt from a channel with metal embedded in the corners of the wooden walls of the house.

In this case, an attached building can be built even on a relatively weak foundation; the channel belt will keep the extension from tipping over or buckling walls.

Extension to a wooden house from a bar

It is technologically much more difficult to make a timber extension to a wooden house than to build an additional room from brick or aerated concrete.

First of all, the foundation, experts categorically recommend making a foundation of the same type under the extension as under the main building. If for some reason it is impossible to use the advice, then the attached timber box is best done on a pile foundation.

The second problem is the shrinkage of the wooden walls of the building. Regardless of the foundation and roof design chosen, the timber extension will shrink for at least another year, so expansion gaps will need to be made on the walls and roof truss system.

The easiest way is to build an additional room below the installation level of the truss system of a wooden house. In this case, the roof of the extension does not exert much pressure on the mauerlat and the upper rims of the roofing system. It is enough to make a swinging node adjoining the shed roof of the extension to the wooden wall of the house, if you build the node correctly, then the shrinkage processes of the timber walls will not affect the stability of the main box of the building.

If an extension from a bar needs to be made equal in height to the walls of a wooden house, then you will have to build a common roof for the entire structure. To do this, it will be necessary to disassemble the roofing and make a transitional part for the articulation of the truss system of a wooden house with a shed extension system.

The above method of combining the roofing of two buildings guarantees the absence of leaks, even if the shrinkage of the attached premises exceeded the calculated values. If necessary, a canopy over the entrance to the house can be made from a new common roof slope or a wooden terrace can be built. It is enough to lengthen the overhang and install additional supports, however, this can be done no earlier than the shrinkage of the walls of the extension ends.

Do-it-yourself extension to a wooden house: step by step instructions

The problem of expanding the existing housing stock is especially relevant for summer and country houses. As a rule, a cottage is bought together with a house. In the process of the first redevelopment and distribution of the usable area of ​​the building, it becomes clear that the wooden house requires a radical reconstruction. At a minimum, you will need to attach a veranda or covered terrace for relaxation. The earlier a wooden extension is made, the cheaper the construction of a country house will be.

Preparation for construction

It is best to build an additional area on the sunny side of the building. Wooden walls do not like direct sunlight, so the surface of the wood is additionally primed with a protective varnish, Tikkurila is best. Regardless of which side of the wooden house it is planned to build an additional room, the box is reinforced with brackets, vapor barrier and mineral fiber boards are laid. It is extremely necessary to insulate the extension, even if the project involves the construction of a warm extension.

Foundation laying

Following the golden rule for the construction of extensions, the foundation for the base of the attached premises must be chosen the same as for a wooden house. In this case, the attached box can be built on a columnar foundation. Such a scheme is simpler and cheaper than a tape or pile version.

If the purchased wooden cottage has problems with the shrinkage of part of the supports, then it is best to make a remote MZL foundation that will cover both the old building and the new building.

Important! In this case, the problem of joining the bases of the attached and main wooden premises is automatically solved.

In order to make a columnar foundation, you will need:

• Clean the top layer of soil under the base of the extension, remove the sod, remove the grass and the remains of the roots, the surface is covered with geotextile so that weeds do not grow, covered with a layer of sand and rammed in two or three passes;
• The next step is to make columnar supports, the easiest way is to build supports by casting a concrete mixture into a wooden formwork. If the site has a slope of the surface, then the supports must be connected to each other with reinforcement bundles, even without embedding it in concrete. Anchor studs, 100-150 mm high, are embedded in the supporting surface of the pillars;
• Approximately four hours after pouring, it is necessary to trim the supporting surface so that all sites are located in the same strictly horizontal plane.

After the concrete has set, it is necessary to remove the wooden formwork and make waterproofing, it is best to paste over the supports with roofing material on bituminous mastic. Next, you need to build the harness and the base of the extension, which will connect the sole of the attached room with the foundation of the wooden building.

Connecting the foundation to the base of a wooden house

Strapping can be done no earlier than three days after pouring concrete. In winter, the exposure time is doubled. First you need to build a mounting plane. To do this, one beam is laid on two edge rows of columnar supports, so that they are parallel to the wooden wall of the house. Next, a support beam is sewn onto the adjacent wall of the wooden house, this must be done strictly along the horizon line.

The transverse beams of the piping of the columnar foundation will rest freely at one end on the beam sewn to the wall, the rest of the wooden piping after alignment will be fixed on the supports. In this way, it is possible to build and connect the foundations of an extension and a wooden house using a flexible ligament.

If you make a concrete strip foundation for a wooden house and an attached room, then the connection between the bases will need to be built according to the diagram below. An expansion joint is made between the concrete strips of the two foundations, into which a triple-folded glass roofing material is laid.

Installation of the floor in the annex

After finishing work with the foundation, before building the floor and load-bearing elements of the walls, it is necessary to do, as they say, “welding” the wooden parts. The foundation wood is subjected to a three-fold treatment:

• The fungus, woodworms are etched with an aqueous solution of chromic, the second pass is to treat wooden structures with vitriol oil;
• In the next run, the wooden beams are fired with a blowtorch or gas burner to make the pores in the wood susceptible to finishing with drying oil or oil paint;
• All wooden elements of the foundation of the extension are painted with a protective compound, it is best to do the treatment with silicate protective paints.

Note! After impregnation with organosilicon protective compounds, a wooden extension can be built even on wet marshy ground.

Before building the floor, it is necessary to measure the distance between the cross beams of the strapping in order to make the floor as strong as possible, without creaking boards and deflections. The distance between the lags should be no more than 60 cm, so the strapping beams are either diluted with intermediate beams, or oblique wooden corners are sewn on.

The next step is to do the flooring. The lower plane of the wooden strapping is lined with a tongue-and-groove board, plywood or an ordinary sawlog. Waterproofing and mineral seal mats are laid inside the box, then another layer of vapor barrier film is laid, and the future floor can be laid with a rough floorboard. As long as the board is only tacked to the base, the finished floor can be built after the walls and ceiling have been erected.

Extension windows and doors

One of the most difficult stages in the construction of an extension is associated with the construction of supporting pillars of the walls and ceiling. To equip the load-bearing racks of a wooden extension, a bar with a section of 90x90 mm is used, preferably spruce or pine, but always of the first grade, without knots or signs of damage to the fibers.

Instead of an expensive bar, racks can be made from a forty board. Two edged boards are knocked down at the edges with nails and loosened into blocks on a circular saw. For each pair, you need to make sizing with carpentry glue, and then dry it under pressure. From a home-made timber, you can easily make load-bearing racks, floor beams, window and door frames without any problems.

Homemade beams are installed vertically on the strapping beam and fastened with struts. After alignment, the elements of the future frame are sewn together with beams of the upper and middle strapping. After assembling the racks, you need to make blanks for window and door openings.

Boxes can be built directly into the frame of the extension or made separately according to the size of the window frames. The door hatch is installed together with the door, reinforced with struts and side ligaments. If it is planned to use a plastic door and windows, then the transitional wooden frame can be immediately fixed to the frame using mounting foam.

Roof and its docking with the main roof

Before building the roof and walls of the extension, it is necessary to lay the beams of the ceiling. The principle of laying ceiling beams practically does not differ from the construction of lags for the floor.

Initially, the upper ceiling trim is marked for laying another layer of a wooden beam - a Mauerlat, on which it will be possible to build a roof frame. Next, in the upper harness and the Mauerlat beam, you need to make cuts or cut the grooves for laying the ceiling beam.

Depending on the size of the wooden extension, the ceiling is made of timber 70x90 mm or 90x90 mm. In places of tie-in, the floor beams are attached to the upper trim with self-tapping bolts. After assembling the ceiling, it is necessary to lay the Mauerlat beams, after combining the sawn grooves with the ledges of the ceiling beams, it is nailed to the upper trim of the wooden frame of the extension.

Before building a roof truss frame, experts recommend hemming the ceiling with a grooved board, you can use OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood, 15-18 mm thick. Ceiling filing will give the opportunity to work freely and move around the ceiling.

Common roof rafters

In order to build a common roof truss system for a wooden house and an extension, it will be necessary to disassemble and remove the roofing of the adjacent slope. If an attic room is built on the second floor of the cottage, then the lower part of the rafters will need to be removed. So that the frame of the attic room does not deform, it is necessary to make several struts or stops to compensate for the pressure on the attic of the roofing pie from the opposite side.

In order to build a new slope, it is enough to replace the old rafters with new, longer and heavier ones. The upper end of the rafters rests on the auxiliary ridge bar of the attic, with the lower cut they stand on the Mauerlat of the upper trim of the extension.

To compensate for the weight of the heavier new rafters, an additional brace-reinforced support must be built under each beam. Next, a crate, cornice and wind slats are stuffed onto the rafters. If the attic is planned to be built in an insulated version, it will be necessary to build a counter-lattice and ventilation of the roofing pie.

Roof finishing and insulation

The main difficulty faced in the process of restoring or laying a new roofing is the limited access to insulating and insulating materials of the upper roof slope. In order to build reliable insulation and waterproofing of the roof, without cold bridges and lines of condensate leakage, it is necessary to connect the vapor barrier membranes of the upper and lower roof slopes very tightly and with high quality.

This is not easy to do. To build a single protection, it is necessary to lift the bottom row of slate or metal tiles in order to run the film under the roofing and securely glue it to the top layer of the film material.

The rest of the roll of waterproofing and vapor barrier film is rolled down the slope and fixed with the slats of the counter-lattice. The heater returns to its place. To prevent the redistribution of condensate from warmer layers to colder parts of the roof, the roof insulation must be built from the same material. If it is not possible to build up the enlarged plane of the new slope with a material identical to the old insulation, then it is better to replace the fiber boards throughout the roof with new mats.

To build the first row of roofing on the line of joining the slopes, it is necessary to make a transition node. Usually it is a wooden plank cut with a wedge or a bar stuffed along the edge of the upper slope. This must be done, since the angle of inclination of the new slope, under which the extension and part of the wooden house fit, has become smaller, which means that part of the rainwater can penetrate through the junction line. To avoid leakage, the joint line is glued with polyurethane foam and bituminous mastic.

Construction and wall insulation

After the roof and ceiling have been assembled, waterproofing and insulation have been laid, it is necessary to build the insulation of the walls and floor of the wooden extension. Initially, you need to check how much the geometry of the walls has changed, window and door openings have deformed under load from the weight of the truss system, insulation and ceiling. In places where the formed cracks and gaps are visible to the naked eye, it will be necessary to tighten and align the racks so that they return to their original place, this can be done with an ordinary heavy hammer and mount.

After leveling the places where the gaps have formed, they are reinforced with metal plates, if the vertical stand has led, then two additional horizontal struts will need to be made. The walls of the wooden extension are reinforced with horizontal and side braces at the installation sites of window frames and doors.

Further, the outer surface of the extension frame is sewn up with a rail, if it is supposed to be siding, then the bar can be filled in increments of 1.5 cm, in other cases the surface is clogged solid. The next step is to build the insulation of the room, most often fiber mineral thermal insulation is placed in the windows-niches of wooden walls, which is glued with adhesive tape and blown with foam. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the basalt fiber.

The inside of the wall upholstery can be made of wooden slats, but most often OSB boards or plywood are used in extensions, but walls can just as well be lined with drywall or MDF panels.

To insulate the floor, you can use cheaper expanded clay backfill, the material is quite strong and durable, on its basis you can build an ideally warm base of a wooden extension. Its only drawback is the strong absorption of water, if the extension room is heated intermittently for several days, then in a month the expanded clay will become wet from condensate, and it will be extremely difficult to dry it.

Some legal points

One of the reasons why the owners decide to build an additional room to a wooden house is a common misconception that light wooden extensions are not subject to registration with state authorities.

In fact, the situation is ambiguous. On the one hand, the Town Planning Code states that non-permanent structures include only small structures and details of capital buildings that do not affect communications, characteristics, fire safety and load-bearing elements of the structure. These include canopies, canopies, balconies and porch groups built on the same foundation with a capital house.

It is difficult to build an ordinary extension to a wooden house so that it looks like a balcony or a porch. The only exception is an extension in the form of a porch group or a covered veranda. It is enough to declare such an extension as an explicit character. To do this, an application is submitted to the BTI to amend the passport of a wooden house. In fact, a decision will be made, on the basis of which it is possible to re-register the documents.

For all other options for an extension to a wooden house, regardless of the size, material and foundation scheme, before starting work, it will be necessary to issue a building permit, provide a package of documents and pay a fee. All that remains is to build an extension and sign an acceptance certificate at the inspection.

The package of documents includes:

• cadastral plan,
• Passport for a wooden house;
• Site plan;
• Copies of documents of the owner;
• Extension project.

After coordination with the supervisory authorities and a positive decision of the commission, it will be possible to register the property and make changes to the technical passport.

Conclusion

You can build an additional room to a wooden house without permission. If all the norms of SNiPs for the construction of extensions are observed, then it is possible to register an unauthorized construction by a court decision. As a rule, objects with a readiness of more than 60% that do not pose a threat to the population and the environment receive a positive decision. This is not a quick and expensive business, sometimes it is easier and cheaper to build a wooden extension than to register it.

You can inexpensively and quickly increase the living space of the house with the help of a frame extension to the house. Why is this particular type of extension popular today? Their main feature is a number of advantages, such as:

• low cost of building materials;
• high speed of construction;
• complete absence of shrinkage, unlike other designs;
• minimum .

Frame extensions to the house - an excellent solution for houses with a small living space

A frame extension to a wooden house will allow you to change its architecture. This type implies the presence of a supporting skeleton or from a trimmed beam, from which the lower trim and corner post are actually made.

When the supporting skeleton is fully assembled, the terrace must be insulated and rough cladding must be made (CSB with sheets, LSU or OSB). Only after the rough sheathing can you proceed to the finishing of the terrace.

Excellent performance is inherent in this type of extensions, since they give off heat very slowly, so that such an extension can be heated quickly and easily.

Its decoration can be carried out only after the completion of construction, and at the same time, construction can be carried out at any time of the year.

If necessary, over time, changing the finish of such a terrace will be much easier than with conventional classical construction.

However, when building such a terrace, all points must be taken into account. To avoid over time the appearance of cracks and deformation of the extension, it is necessary to correctly place the expansion joints. What are expansion joints? An expansion joint is a joint that cuts the building from top to bottom. Such a seam allows some parts of the building to settle independently in a vertical position.

frame extension to the house
house extension project

To avoid the destruction of the outbuilding, it is necessary during its construction to separate the outbuilding with the help of sedimentary seams (2 cm slots), which should start from the bottom and go to the roof, and so on between all parts of the building. Subsequently, these gaps are filled with polystyrene foam, plastic bituminous, silicone or acrylic mass and elastic bands.

How to choose the right house extension project?

The terrace should complement the overall picture of the house, and not look like a separate element. Therefore, before you give preference to one project, you must fully think it over. The terrace should be spacious, but at the same time it cannot occupy more than 20% of the house itself.

If the house is built in a classical style, then the house should also be of the usual classical form, so that it complements the house and creates a single whole with it.

Frame panels are able to create a "thermos effect", in which heat, unlike ordinary brick walls, lasts seven times longer.

Frame projects of extensions to the house have become popular due to their low cost and ease of installation.

The main bearing function with this frame technology falls on, and various types of thermal insulation and cladding "take on" the task of protecting the structure from external harmful effects and suppresses thermal insulation and external noise.

With the lateral extension of the house, special attention should be paid to protecting the old part of the building. When designing a new extension to the house, you need to pay attention to the fact that the load-bearing walls are perpendicular to the previously built part of the house.

When extending the outbuilding, the distance from the old foundation to the new one can be several meters. In this case, the floors must be installed so that they are closer to the old structure, but at the same time they should not rest on the old walls.

You can even connect two structures - the main part of the house with an extension in an atypical way, for example, lean the floor slab on two walls - the old and the new. However, this must be done carefully so that, as a result, the walls have the possibility of small movements during the subsidence of the foundation.

Any terrace, chosen wisely and done correctly, can decorate the house and give it completeness. However, the main rule when choosing an extension is that it must necessarily be combined with the style of the house and be no more than 20% of its total living area in size.

In order to make the house comfortable, the best solution is to create additional space. First of all, projects for extensions to a wooden house and any other must be properly legally executed.

It is better to do this in advance, since it is easier to make changes to them than to redo an already finished design later.

The purpose of building an extension

1. Arrangement or porch.
2. Creation of a technical room (workshop, garage, boiler room, electrical panel room, pantry).
3. Expansion of living space (living room, bathroom, kitchen, dining room, hallway).

It should be borne in mind that the extension has some features compared to other structures.

What extensions are suitable for a wooden house?

Despite the functional difference of the additional premises, there is a prerequisite - ensuring the safety of the main building. For wooden houses, the use of extensions made of identical material is advisable in order to create harmony and prevent overloading the foundation. If the main building is a log house, logs, timber and even aerated concrete blocks are suitable for it. But wooden extensions remain preferred.

The most rational option is to attach a frame structure. The availability of modern materials for sale makes it possible to make new premises as comfortable and functional as possible all year round.

What should be considered when creating an extension?

The following factors must be taken into account in construction:

1. and its dimensions.
2. The condition of the walls with the roof and what elements need to be replaced.
3. The possibility of rigid connection of structures and the creation of a transition between rooms.
4. transitions between rooms.

Due to the fact that a wooden extension shrinks during the first year after construction, it is not recommended to do it rigidly to the walls of the house. Between them leave the so-called providing relative slippage of the walls vertically. It is necessary even with a common foundation and separates all parts of the building from the bottom up, up to the roof. Finally, the seam is filled with elastic tapes, polystyrene foam, plastic mass made of bitumen, silicone or acrylic.

When combining different materials at the junction, embedded elements are used: reinforcement, channel, corner. The tightness of the joint is created using a gap of 1-2 cm, which is subsequently filled with mounting foam and closed with a flashing. Metal should be carefully painted to protect against corrosion.

It is quite possible to create a basement under a new room. In this case, a deep strip foundation is required. But it is impossible to lay a new foundation below the sole of the old one. The sole of the foundation of the extension should be the same as that of the house, or placed higher.

Project work

The projects of extensions to a wooden house have become the most popular due to their economy, simplicity and efficiency. First of all, a project is created. The extension complements the house, creating a single whole, and is not a separate part of it. It is important to provide for the condition of the adjoining walls and, if necessary, replace the rotten parts.

One style should be followed. The dimensions of the additional building should not exceed 2/3 of the house. In this case, it must be taken into account that the general appearance of the facade is not disturbed. The area of ​​​​the veranda is usually about 20% of the house.

The extension can be two-story. It is important to ensure its reliable thermal insulation. If the attached room is combined with the rooms of the house through doorways, it must be reliably insulated. Otherwise, it will affect the microclimate of the whole house. Protection from the cold must be provided on all sides.

When changing a residential building, permission from the city architectural committee is required. All necessary drawings are being prepared. The price of the services of a construction company, which undertakes to create an extension project to a private house, ranges from 25,000 rubles. A suitable option can be selected from the proposed photos.

Typical ready-made projects are difficult to apply, since they need to be tied to the existing structure of the house and the state of the soil. They are taken as a basis, making changes of different levels of complexity, depending on the wishes of customers. As a result, an original solution can be obtained.

Building a new foundation

When projects for extensions to a wooden house are being developed, special attention is paid to the foundation. So that it does not shrink, it is connected to the base of the house. You won't be able to get a monolith, but you can get close to it. First, a trench is dug and the attached parts of the main foundation are released. The waterproofing is cleaned from it, and then recesses are drilled to a depth of 60-80 mm with a crown with a diameter of at least 100 mm. After that, instead of the crown, a drill is inserted and thin holes are drilled in the concrete. Then reinforcement is hammered into them. The frame of the new foundation is attached to it and it is poured with concrete. After hardening, waterproofing is laid on the base, after which it is possible to build an extension from any material, but it is not recommended to create heavy structures.

If the reinforcement of the two foundations is not done, over time they may disperse.

How to make a roof

The roof of the extension is erected separately. It is made single-sided and with a large slope. There is no connection to the main building. In this case, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the roof to the wall of the house. Then its subsidence will not occur in the process of shrinkage and shrinkage of the structure.

The roof is located below the main one or is made with it as one piece. It should be ensured that the shrinkage of the new structure does not lead to subsidence of the roof. If a decision is made to build a common roof, then the entire roof will have to be reconstructed.

Construction of an extension from a bar

Projects of extensions to a wooden house most often involve the manufacture of new structures from the same material, for example, from a bar. The building is usually attached to the facade wall and may have as many floors as the house has. Then the foundation is made the same, and the roof can be common or one-sided pitched. Under the veranda, a lightweight columnar base is used.

The walls are built using the same technology as for the main house. The beam is connected to each other with dowels. Fastening to the main wall is made with plates with screws or brackets.

An extension made of timber is usually intended for residential premises.

For her, the roof can be made common by connecting the floors with metal corners. The design of the drainage system is made integral.

Add-on costs are as follows:

• type of construction and decoration;
• number of floors;
• the complexity of the foundation;
• availability of communications;
• type of beam.

The general list also includes the price of the project, transportation and the complexity of construction.

Frame extension

The frame base is the simplest and most common solution for building an extension to a wooden house. Despite the fact that this technology has appeared recently, it has received universal recognition due to its economy and speed of construction.

The frame is made of wood or metal. The cost of a structure depends primarily on its purpose. The construction of a dwelling requires the highest costs, where insulation is required with mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and other heat-shielding materials.

Metal structures are made from profiles of various shapes and sizes by welding. The cheaper wooden frame is also strong and durable.

The foundation is made small and can be shallow or columnar. It is displayed on a par with the main one at the top level.

The wooden frame is treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting composition. Then it is assembled. From the side of the facade, the walls are sheathed with sheets of plywood or OSB, with siding or plastic trim, and from the inside - clapboard. If it is pre-coated with several layers of varnish, the service life of the material will be significantly extended. Insulation is placed between the outer and inner lining.

Attaching the porch to the frame structure is not difficult. A small foundation is made under it, connected with the main one.

Conclusion

An extension to the house allows you to increase living space and create comfortable living conditions at minimal cost. This can be done with your own hands, if you correctly develop your own or make changes to finished projects with reference to specific conditions. At the same time, mistakes in construction should not be made.