How to close osb on the street in winter. Features of roofing flooring from osb slabs. Rafters - the frame of the future roof

18.01.2015, 11:46

OSB for the winter

Planned shingles, we will put ourselves. We won't be able to do the roofing this year. OSB slab bases are strongly recommended by manufacturers for soft roofing. Is it possible for builders who will make a roof to immediately order an OSB coating, and roofing material on top for protection, or will OSB under roofing material not survive the winter well?

18.01.2015, 21:30
avlan
Just like my case.
Last fall, he covered the OSB roof with slabs, and laid a roofing material on top, which he fastened to the self-tapping screws with slats. Otherwise, it can be blown away by the wind.
In the spring, the slats were unscrewed and the roofing felt was removed. Plates externally have not changed. I also installed the flexible tile myself. Spent a vacation but shingles laid about 200 squares. The roofing material was removed as the tiles were laid, so that the slab would not be open for a long time.
By the way, I screwed the tiles onto self-tapping screws with a press washer. It turned out longer than on ruffed nails (as technonikol recommends), but with self-assembly easier to dose the degree of pressure. You will hit the nail harder, especially in the heat, when the tile becomes very softened, and the nail head is strongly sunk into the tile. The self-tapping screw can be tightened precisely. A screwdriver allows a non-professional to correct the position of the self-tapping screw if something happens. And if the nail is hammered, then that's it.
19.01.2015, 13:27
Nebraska
Thanks for the answer. Will it be possible to turn to you for advice if there are problems during the installation of the roof?
19.01.2015, 14:02
igorPNZ
Of course, the roof material has already been chosen, but have you considered the option of putting more normal material on the roof, and not "upgraded roofing felt" which is soft tile and other * dulins? maybe OSB is not needed and it will turn out to cover the roof this year?
19.01.2015, 14:32
sad man
igorPNZ, and what do you mean by more normal material? I, say, also plan a soft tile. I don’t want slate, everything is metal too. Natural tiles are not affordable. What remains?
19.01.2015, 15:33
igorPNZ
Of course, a lot depends on where the house is. but as a rule natural tiles- also not a topic. since small-piece, and small-piece material in the presence of snow is EVIL.
Why not metal?
According to my concepts - rolled metal laid with a double fold - steers. especially if it's copper;) But since not everyone can afford such a cost, and there is also local features- then we agree to galvanization. IMPORTANT: galvanized thickness is MORE THAN 0.5mm.
But this roof has one drawback: it’s still difficult to lay it on your own, the “brigades” strive to mow to the standard song “we always do it this way”, it’s difficult to buy rolled metal, etc....
Therefore, the next option: corrugated board. sheet length - in the entire slope, it is not worth gaining length from "standard" shorter and easily transportable sheets. for kroilovo leads to popadalov. Profile - not less than 21. Thickness - see above. Laying - according to the "slate" principle, with self-tapping screws in the CREST. with LINED slats on it. "brigades" don't do that, of course, they don't need an extra gimmick, after a few years leaks are not their problems, but their bread ....
Well classic roof from slate is not bad. especially the "mythical" which is "dyed in mass". though she has contraindications: hail egg, a small angle of inclination of the roof, and I would not have made slate without a cold attic.
I would not consider a metal tile, because it is not clear how to put it normally. and the manufacturer who compiled his recommendations would like to ask the question: how to replace the gaskets of self-tapping screws after a few years?
Everything. Other roofs - only for temporary or non-critical roofing. all sorts of ruberoids, etc ....
19.01.2015, 17:19
sad man
Although not applicable to roofing materials, but I know firsthand about the quality of galvanizing, . Therefore, I consider the probability of marriage and rust to be significant.
The slate does not look. I want aesthetics.
As for soft tiles (if you mean it under the words "all sorts of roofing materials there") - well, do not go too far, after all, time-tested material. Even if not in our country.
19.01.2015, 17:35
igorPNZ

the point is that everything bituminous materials behave badly: (baby - it is pulled off by snow, bitumen melts and deteriorates under the sun .... and if it is also badly stuck to the base, then the canvas itself crawls and tears with nails at the attachment point .... (fiberglass with this is a little better ) one thing is good - the holes in the roof are usually melted by the same sun, which increases the time until repair ..
20.01.2015, 12:19
slava_gold
20.01.2015, 13:02
arhara
Well, I don’t think you should dissuade from soft tiles. The material has proven itself in reliability. And on complex roofs with a bunch of frills - out of competition.
20.01.2015, 13:24
igorPNZ
not bars, but slats. wave high. along the entire length is not necessary, the main thing is that it be under the screws. economical aesthetes in general can enclose cubes. (the question of how to get into them with self-tapping screws is another question.) ;)
complex roofs- it's true. with other material - a lot of gimmicks. and "roofing material" - just right :)
20.01.2015, 14:13
arhara
Soft tiles are not roofing material, they are made using a different technology, just like the profiled sheet is not made using the technology of cans. It differs both in the quality of the bituminous mixture and in the base. The result is an order of magnitude higher reliability and durability. So it is not correct to call it ruberoid. Or at least give examples where soft tiles failed in their tasks.
20.01.2015, 16:08
igorPNZ
I had a bunch of them, examples.
Problems - I already wrote what.
roofing material, by the way, is long-lived and quite coping, I saw it on the roofs. he lay well where the BASE was good and there were no crows. by the way, how do crows relate to soft roofing? they were extremely indifferent to my roofing material and pecked how much in vain ...
PS: and the seam roof - just using the technology of tin cans is done :)
14.05.2015, 16:19
Ruslan Kudrin
Yes, there is a question of risk, the roofing material will withstand the OSB too. The main thing is that the roofing material is not lifted by the wind or something else does not happen to it.
01.06.2015, 23:00
Galubtsov
OSB moisture-proof is needed, this material is not moisture resistant in itself.
06.10.2015, 17:14
Dziko
Exactly, not in our country.
With the quality of galvanizing - everything is complicated. but you can find a good one. besides, I know one house - there the roof is not even made of galvanization, but stupidly made of metal. and dyed. been there for years...
And the roofing material on my roof also lay for 5 years, until it was replaced with metal ... it almost didn’t even leak :)
the trick is that all bituminous materials behave badly: (a crumb is pulled off by snow, the bitumen melts and deteriorates under the sun .... and if it is also badly stuck to the base, then the canvas itself crawls and tears with nails at the attachment point .... (fiberglass is a little better with this) one thing is good - the holes in the roof are usually melted by the same sun, which increases the time until repair ..
Sorry, but you write nonsense, bituminous materials behave badly due to oxidation (aging) of bitumen, as a result, it floats, cracks for a while, after which it behaves quite steadily. The problem with cheap bitumens and coatings based on them is that by this time they have already lost their ability to withstand precipitation. It is for this reason that bitumen for HF is pre-oxidized, or modifiers are added (which is much better). This roofing material never knew what SBS or modified bitumen was, so it lives on the strength of 5 years.
If you don’t believe me, read the topics about building houses in the USA and Canada, where 90% of all roofing is HF, by the way, they easily give a guarantee for 35 years, but in fact they don’t change even up to 50, even the cheapest single-layer tile lies for 25 years.
Well, for arguments about our exclusive heavy weather, I recommend that you familiarize yourself (maybe the stereotypes will disappear) with long-term weather statistics in the northern states of the USA, in northern Canada and Alaska, you can also capture Finland, in all these places a flexible tiles.
Well, you shouldn’t discount the tastes of people either, for example, I don’t want the roof of my house to look like a piece of some kind of industrial zone covered with rattling, condensing (this also applies to metal tiles) covered with streaks of rust and wretched looking galvanized.
PS. By the way, for more than 10 years I have had one of the cheapest options for Shinglas on my household block, a single-layer tile, on this moment there are no leaks, no loss of appearance (as they put it yesterday) and the crows did not peck at the same time:cool:
I am finishing laying at home and from experience I will say that when working alone, there is no equal in terms of convenience, although of course it is tedious.
06.10.2015, 17:44
igorPNZ

One thing on the topic - putting it comfortably ......
07.10.2015, 01:04
Dziko
USA - past, Finns - closer to the truth, Canada - very good!
But is it used there, and how often is it repaired?
And about the industrial zone and galvanization - this is completely past. look at the roofs of old Moscow for example.
Cheap shabby soft - I saw. a lot of.
One thing on the topic - putting it comfortably ......
I studied a lot of information about the construction of houses in these countries, construction technologies, for example, carcasses, in Scandinavia and the North. Americas are somewhat different, but in both cases, all house designs are the same for everyone. climatic zones and the roof is no different, after the expiration of the service life on the old one (without dismantling it), they simply lay a new one and, according to their page standards, this is allowed twice and only then complete dismantling.
Maybe, of course, in Moscow the galvanization looks tolerable, I don’t remember, I haven’t been for a long time, and it was probably laid in old Moscow by old masters with hands from the right place, not like the current one, but in St. Petersburg with our shitty climate they constantly change the galvanization and after 3-5 years she already with obvious smudges of rye.
I don’t want to argue that HF is the best that mankind has come up with, of course, like any other material, it has both minuses and pluses, this is all to the point that you need to be objective, and comparing HF and roofing material just because bitumen is present in both cases is not correct .
And by the way, about the ruberoid. Often there is a desire of people to save money (not very understandable, and the difference in price is not so big) and instead of a normal lining carpet for soft roof they try to screw in the roofing material, it’s not worth it, the roofing material does not stretch, with temperature changes (especially in hot summer) it goes in a wave, bristles and all this will be visible under the tiles after the first good sun, although much smaller and thick lining carpets are prone to this, it’s better choose thin ones on fiberglass.
07.10.2015, 08:26
arhara
Attachments: 1

Metal vs soft tile...the battle continues
My part of the fence (from the side of large human traffic) is made of corrugated board. Already 7 years old, and there is not a single place where rust has appeared, it looks like new.
And on the roof of the house soft tiles lay for 5 years ... also no complaints. The crumbs crumble and crumble, pebbles are visible in the area of \u200b\u200bthe drain pipes, but this "bald spots" did not appear anywhere.
Yesterday I took a picture with the first drizzle this year))

Igor, call my roof ruberoid, in the eye of the ladies: D
07.10.2015, 09:34
igorPNZ
advented roofing material :)
What is your pipe made of?
and what is the period of operation of the MS in Canada, for example? What about the expiration date of the frame?
I have no reliable information on how they build in different countries. I have infa only for my village :) and I have seen enough of everyone!
07.10.2015, 10:50
Dziko
advented roofing material :)
What is your pipe made of?
And what is the period of operation of the warhead in Canada, for example? What about the expiration date of the frame?
I have no reliable information about how they build in different countries. I have infa only for my village :) and I have seen enough of everyone!
On another resource, there is a very sensible topic from a professional builder from Canada (I’m not sure that you can post a link to it here, if you want, I can drop it in a personal) has been building all over the country for more than 20 years, as far as I remember, he wrote about the average exploitation period. MS at 35 years old, respectively, more expensive two-layer samples last longer, the most cheap option shingles are about 25 years old.
I didn’t see any information about the service life of the frame structure at all, it is understood that the house was built without violating technologies (and it’s very difficult to build there with violations, after each stage of construction a state inspector arrives and checks everything, only after that you can build further, otherwise big problems, fines and up to demolition if irreparable violations are detected) should serve for an unlimited time, but nevertheless, firms give a guarantee, of course, not for centuries.
PS. I don’t understand what’s the matter, it’s impossible to write, skips letters and slows down, while blinking and underlining everything in red, it takes 10 minutes for one message, tell me, maybe something needs to be changed in the forum settings or text when answering.
IMHO it is logical: usually after 25 years, children leave, and are no longer needed big house; the city is developing, where there used to be residential areas, a business center can grow; a young family is unlikely to want to live in a house old building in which modern amenities are not available.
But we don’t live in wild Japan, give us forever))
07.10.2015, 15:15
Dziko
I don’t know about Canada, but in Japan we were told that the service life of their carcasses is taken to be 25-30 years. This is not due to the fact that after this period it will fall apart, but with life cycle human life, city life and technology development.
IMHO it is logical: usually after 25 years the children leave, and a big house is no longer needed; the city is developing, where there used to be residential areas, a business center can grow; a young family is unlikely to want to live in an old building, in which modern amenities are not available.
But we don’t live in wild Japan, give us forever))
In Japan, this is basically logical, there people live on this piece of land almost like on our sixth part of the land: cool: the cities are all sprawling, by the way, maybe that’s why they build mostly small houses, they still demolish. And in all the Americas and Canada, places are unmeasured and the secondary housing market is very developed, which means they are not particularly demolished.
About hurricanes (of course, this applies more to the southern states), by the way, I met some funny information, houses made of aerated concrete during construction connect the foundation with the upper armored belt. hairpins and all this plus mortgages, fix the roof, otherwise the insurance companies refuse to conclude contracts, that is, if the house flies away, then only with the foundation: grin: Maybe of course these are new trends and we also practice this, but building from aerated concrete 1 floor like I studied everything about this case, but I did not find anything like it.
PS. Thanks to everyone for the tips on the problem with the text, now I decided to insert a smiley and switched to extended mode, as a result, the whole problem disappeared, everything is printed normally: grin:
07.10.2015, 16:47
igorPNZ
Well, mortgages to the roof, of course, are needed. but about the connection with the foundation - x3. or remortgage, or most likely "vertical reinforcement". so that the house does not squint and collapse under a strong lateral load.
But the fact that in the states they build from foam concrete is news to me. I thought there were only frames, a maximum lined with bricks on the outside for strength ...

OSB boards are boards with flat chips that are suitable for all kinds of construction works as well as for roofing. Such slabs for roofing consist of 95% softwood or aspen wood. High-quality plates are presented on the page http://www.sferastroy.ru/e-store/goods/osp_3_plity_osb_3/. For the manufacture of this material, a binder is used, which can glue the chips together and give it moisture-resistant properties. The adhesive composition used for the manufacture of OSB panels is environmentally friendly. After the technological process, additional processing is also carried out, which enhances operational properties OSB boards. The advantage of these plates is that they combine low cost with excellent quality.

Moisture-resistant roofing boards are still the best option when building a roof. After all, a roof covered with OSB boards not only has a wonderful appearance, but it also perfectly resists the vagaries of the weather. Roofing from OSB can withstand without problems strong wind, rain, scorching sun and even snowdrifts. Besides. OSB for roofing fully comply with all standards and modern rules construction, besides they differ in extraordinary durability. These boards are manufactured in the USA and Canada and sold through a huge network of regional warehouses.

OSB building boards for roofing are also suitable as flooring, they are especially good for mounting shinglas shingles. It is important that the lathing of such OSB boards has a flat and smooth surface, which makes it easier technological process installation of many building materials. The OSB board has a rigid base, it is not subject to deformation when exposed to moisture. And thanks to its structure of chips with a cross-shaped orientation, this construction material can be attached very securely to the roof frame.

OSB board is great for roofing works due to the fact that it is not difficult to give her right size and shape, as it is easily sawn. The thickness of such a plate is calculated taking into account snow loads and crate step. The main qualities of OSB boards are: uniformity, rigidity, durability, excellent sheet geometry. The grain direction of a quality OSB board should be perpendicular to the main beams. OSB especially large sizes cover almost the entire distance between the supports and at the same time they maximize the reliability of the entire roof structure. OSB boards are significantly superior to the physical and mechanical properties of plywood, which is why it is considered more suitable material with solid roofing.

Sheathing is an integral part of the roof structure, the durability and design of the entire roof depends on it. Since the types of roofing decks are different, the crate for them is also made differently. For example, under the seam or finished roof make solid crate. The flooring must necessarily have increased strength and density, smoothness and uniformity of the surface. It is because of this that OSB for roof decking is considered the optimum decking that meets all quality standards.

Good afternoon!
We are building frame house, it is sheathed with OSB boards, there is a roof - corrugated board, in winter it will go in this form. During the summer, after several rains, the OSB stratified in some places. Is it possible to cover the walls with a windproof film under the future ventilation facade for the winter and will it not lose its properties by spring? And what material is better to take: Isospan A, AD? The facade will be a blockhouse.

Cover an unprotected facade windproof film it is possible, but this will not solve the problem of saving OSB in full. The fact is that the windproof membrane is designed for the impact of individual drops, which are the result of condensation on the roofing. A good slanting rain, downpour, sleet is beyond her power, the windproof membrane will “cry” with inside. Undoubtedly, the windscreen will reduce the wetting of the OSB, but it will not completely eliminate it.

Windproof membrane is a good thing when covered with exterior trim

OSB-3 boards, which, most likely, sheathed the frame of your house, can only be called moisture resistant with a stretch. And then we can talk about their resistance to moisture only in relation to chipboard, fiberboard, OSB-1 and OSB-2, which quickly collapse under the influence of water. OSB-3 is not intended to be used as an enclosing wall material without subsequent finishing, unlike, for example, from cement particle boards(CSP). By the way, in Canada and the USA, where frame technologies came from, they use waterproof plywood to finish decent houses that should stand for a long time, particle boards- for the poorest.

Manufacturers give such a characteristic as the degree of swelling of the oriented strand board when it is in water for a day. For OSB-3 it is 15%. This is not so little, contrary to the claims of sellers and manufacturers. Of course, on the walls, the particle boards are in a vertical position and are only exposed to slanting rain on one side. However, let's assume that it rains for a week or two, sleet, wet. The low air temperature and the lack of sun do not allow the walls to dry out.

Unprotected from rain OSB sheets properly soaked and swollen. At the same time, they will increase not only in thickness, but also in length and width, albeit not so significantly. As a result, the chipboard panels, rigidly fixed to the frame, will warp. And it’s not a fact that when they dry, they will take their original shape, residual deformations are very likely. In addition, the attachment points will weaken, delamination of the ends may occur (it has already begun for you), and the bonding strength will decrease. It is unlikely that particle boards will not be critically damaged in one season, but their service life will be reduced, the overall stability of the frame will decrease, this is a fact.

OSB is not a completely waterproof material; with prolonged exposure to moisture, it inevitably collapses.

In our opinion, the following options are possible for temporary protection of the unfinished facade from precipitation:

Stretch the Isospan A windproof membrane (18 rubles / m2) along the vertical crate, use a bar 4-5 cm thick. The film is rather weak, it is not a fact that it will successfully survive the winter, it will not be torn by winds.
Use Isospan AM (24 rub/m2) or Isospan AS (35 rub/m2). A three-layer windshield is stronger, less water vapor permeable, but three times more waterproof, which means it will get wet less. Under the finish (blockhouse), it could be stretched without a crate, right along the slabs. But in your case, a ventilated gap and a crate are needed. It is necessary to ensure free air flow, the gap should be at the bottom and at the top, under the roof. Option #2 is preferable.
Stretch any vapor-waterproofing material cheaper along the crate in compliance with ventilation: roofing felt, building reinforced vapor barrier, dense plastic film for greenhouses (enough for one season). When cladding the facade, the waterproofing will have to be removed.

While there is no finish, polyethylene film can be used as a temporary protection, with or without reinforcement.

The right decision would still be to tighten up with finances and finish by autumn exterior finish, sheathing the facade with a blockhouse along a vertical crate. It will end up being cheaper, because the OSB boards themselves can serve as wind protection if they are neatly fitted. You don't have to spend money on tape.

The right decision"puff pastry" frame wall. If the OSB boards fit well and the insulation is completely closed, they will also serve as wind insulation. There is no need to spend money on an additional membrane.

Wizard's advice

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To Oil paint during storage, it does not dry out and so that a film does not form on it, put a mug of thick paper on the surface of the paint and "fill it with a thin layer of drying oil.

" plastic film, covering a balcony or a greenhouse, protects the towline from breaking by the wind, stretched on both sides at intervals of 10-15 cm. "

"To work with concrete mix was lighter, clay is usually added to it, but clay reduces the strength of the mixture. Add a spoon to it washing powder per bucket of water. "

"So that the screw, the head of which is hidden behind the barrier, does not rotate with the tightened nut, you need to throw several turns of thread or thin wire on it and slightly tighten the ends. Due to friction, the screw is well held in place. The ends of the thread can be cut off after tightening. "

"It is possible to cut a birdhouse notch without a brace. It is enough to split the front side of the board in the center and cut out half-holes with a chisel or hatchet required size and then put the halves back together. "

Wooden plugs for screws crumble and fall out of the wall. Do not rush to cut a new cork. Stuff the hole in the wall tightly with nylon from an old stocking. Red hot nail dem suitable diameter melt a hole for the screw. Ra fused capron will turn into a solid cork.

" A carpenter's level can easily be turned into a theodolite by providing it with a sighting device from a slot and a front sight. "

"In order for two strips of linoleum to lie end-to-end, it is convenient to use self-adhesive decorative film, putting it under the basis of the noleum. "

"In order for the nail to go in the right direction and not bend when driving into a deep hole or groove, place it inside the tube, fixing it with crumpled paper or plasticine."

Before punching a hole in concrete wall, fasten a piece of paper just below. Dust and fragments of concrete will not fly around the room.

"To cut the pipe exactly at a right angle, we advise you to drink like this. Take an even strip of paper and screw it onto the pipe along the sawing line. The plane passing through the edge of the paper will be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe."

"Turn logs or wooden beams a simple device will help - a piece of a motorcycle or bicycle chain, supplemented with a hook on one side and attached to a crowbar on the other side. "

"In order to be able to work with a two-handed saw alone, we recommend using a simple trick: move the saw handle from the top position to the bottom. "

You can cut a piece of slate of the required size with a saw, but it is better and easier to punch holes along the line of the intended cut with a nail with a frequency of 2-3 cm, and then break off the slate on the support.

" The best way glue the tile to the wall: take bitumen, melt and drip only four drops at the corners of the tile. Sticks to the dead. "

Shaped holes in the manufacture of figured window frames are most conveniently cut with a hacksaw with a turned blade.

"Making stained-glass windows is a long and difficult task. You can make a quick imitation of a stained-glass window. To do this, they take thin slats or rods of a vine, glue them to a sheet of glass, and then paint the glass and varnish it."

"If there is no dowel at hand, it can be made from a piece of plastic tube. The body of a ballpoint pen may also be suitable for this. Having sawed off a piece of the desired length, make a longitudinal incision, about halfway, and the dowel is ready. "

" It is known how difficult it is to hang a door when working alone. But it is enough to shorten the bottom pin by 2-3 mm and it will become much easier to work. "

"A very strong, non-shrinking and sufficiently waterproof putty is obtained from bustilate mixed with any powder - chalk, gypsum, cement!, sawdust, etc."

"If you need to screw a screw into the end of a chipboard, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with Moment glue (but not epoxy!), screw the screw in a day. The plate does not delaminate. However, the resulting connection can only be put under load through day. "

" Fix portraits, photographs, paintings in wooden frames with glass it is more convenient not with carnations, but with the help of pushpins bent at right angles. The buttons are gently pressed with a screwdriver. Compared to nails, the risk of splitting thin frames is reduced to a minimum. "

"Drive the screw into hard rocks wood is not so easy. If you prick a hole for the screw with an awl, and rub the screw liberally with soap, then after such an operation work will go like clockwork. "

To save time, the edge of the wallpaper can be trimmed with a sharp knife without unrolling the roll. To do this, you must first align the end of the roll and with a simple pencil circle the border of the Edge from the outside. Working with a knife, the roll must be gradually turned in the direction of folding.

For carrying large sheets of plywood, glass or thin iron at home, it is convenient to use a wire holder with three hooks at the bottom and a handle at the top.

IF you need to cut a round stick into the distance, this work is most conveniently done using a template. It is made of a metal tube with a groove in the middle. The diameter is chosen so that the template slides freely on the stick.

It will become easier to work with a hacksaw if in its middle part it is increased by 1/3 of the height of the teeth.

If you attach a weight of about a kilogram to the front of the bow saw machine, it will become easier to work. The load must be made removable so that the saw can be used to perform other work.

" A waxy finish can be obtained by painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. To obtain desired color, you need to dilute the glue with water, tinted with watercolors. "

"Making a cover for an ax blade is as easy as shelling pears. A piece of rubber tube is taken, cut lengthwise and put on the blade. A ring cut from an old car camera protects it from jumping off."

"Do without clamps when gluing wooden frames a linen cord will help. Put four short loops on the corners of the frame and pull the frames diagonally with two long loops. The angles are adjusted with sticks that twist the middle loops. "

"How to silence a creaking floorboard? Between the floorboards, you need to drill a hole at an angle of 45 ° with a diameter of 6-8 mm, hammer a wooden pin smeared with wood glue into it, cut off the protruding end with a chisel and putty the floor surface. "

"To make it easier to scrape a floor covered with varnish or paint, iron it through a damp cloth - and it will become easier to work."

"Slight decay on wood can be eliminated as follows: the affected wood is removed from the healthy layer, and then impregnated with a 10% formalin solution. After drying, the area is puttied and painted over."

" Door hinges they will not creak if they are lubricated in time - this is a well-known rule. But you can do without lubrication. To do this, it is necessary to make a washer from a polyethylene cork and put it on the hinge pin. "

"A failed door latch due to a broken spring can be repaired as follows: the role of a spring will be successfully performed by a piece of rubber tube with a diameter of 15 mm or a piece of elastic rubber installed between the bolt and the latch bodies. "

We offer a simple device for fixing the window frame in the open position: a wooden or plastic plate, in which a number of holes for the latch are drilled. The plate is fastened to the window frame with a screw.

"Cut to sheet material big hole you can do it in a simple way: clamp a nail in a vise (it will serve as an axis) and a piece of a drill (this will be a cutter). The circle is cut by rotating the sheet around the axis. "

Oriented Strand Board (OSB), which is used inside a dry room, does not need any additional protection from moisture. In the worst conditions, the outer skin of the house from this slab turns out to be. Over time, it darkens not only from rain, but also from solar ultraviolet radiation. Of course, you can close the slabs with siding or a blockhouse, but this is associated with at great expense. How to treat OSB (OSB) board from moisture is not an easy question. Let's try to answer it.

Is additional processing needed?

Moisture resistance of oriented strand boards is characterized by the amount of swelling in thickness during the day. According to this parameter, according to the American standard PS 2, European EN-300 and Russian GOST 10632-89, the plates are divided into 4 types (see table).

Recall that for outer skin buildings, only OSB-3 and OSB-4 boards are allowed.

If the constructed structure still somehow gets off, then during the construction of the OSB slabs lie on the construction site in packs. Even after one rain, several top sheets swell almost one and a half times. They stay that way even after drying. The rest of the sheets swell at the ends. By the way, in North American products, the ends are painted with blood-red impregnation to avoid this.

There is an opinion among some builders that OSB boards do not need additional processing, since they are already impregnated with resins, waxed, and varnished. Experience shows that after 2-3 years their appearance loses its original freshness, they darken, individual chips bulge out in some places, and the joints protrude sloppily.

Therefore, additional hydrophobic treatment will not be superfluous, especially if it is the facade of a residential building without any cladding. Consider how to process OSB board from moisture.

1. Transparent impregnations

The cheapest treatment option is water-repellent colorless impregnations. Special solutions not for OSB. You can use any means for wood, with the exception of those prepared on water based. Examples of such compositions:

Antiseptic impregnation for wood Elcon on a silicone basis. Designed for long term protection wooden structures from atmospheric influences, decay, mold. Scope: for internal and external works. Forms a water-repellent film, non-toxic, allows the tree to "breathe".
Innovative domestic hydrophobic composition NEOGARD-Derevo-40 based on organosilicon oligomers. Designed to impart water-repellent properties to wood products and materials based on it: plywood, chipboard, fiberboard. Water absorption for chipboard is reduced by 15 - 25 times. Obviously, it is also suitable for OSB. Does not change the natural color of the material, protective properties kept for at least 5 years.

The most suitable for protecting wood (and OSB) from moisture is the so-called yacht varnish on a urethane-alkyd or alkyd-urethane basis. Some of the popular brands:

Tikkurila UNIKA SUPER (Finland). This brand is the leader in impact resistance external environment, immunity to ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes.
Marshall protex (Turkey). Creates a plastic surface film.
Marshall Protex Yat Vernik. Possesses the increased izno-and moisture resistance.
PARADE (Russia). Retains freshness for a long time.
Belinka Yacht (Russia). It has dirt and water repellent properties, emphasizes the texture of wood materials.
Antiseptic varnish for wood "Drevolak" on acrylic base with the addition of wax (Russia). Along with antiseptic and antibacterial action successfully protects wood from moisture.

Since OSB is a product of wood processing, then paints and varnishes(LMB) the same ones can be used for them:

Oil paints. Due to the presence of polymer resins in the composition of the OSB, drying oil-based paints do not always adhere well to the surface to be painted. For better adhesion to the substrate, it is recommended to perform a double priming with an intermediate putty before painting. Despite this, oil-based coatings under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, temperature extremes and precipitation are prone to fading, cracking, up to flaking. We can recommend a paint based on natural and modified PINOTEX WOOD OIL SPRAY, which resists well to external factors.
Alkyd paints are better suited chipboard, since they contain alkyd resin, as a product of the chemical interaction of natural oils with acids. Their adhesion is higher compared to oil coatings, they dry faster and more successfully resist atmospheric influences.
Acrylic compositions, being inexpensive and durable in operation, are distinguished by an optimal ratio of qualities and are most in demand for painting wood. In addition, they are available in a wide range of colors.

Attention: pre-treat a small surface in an inconspicuous place to make sure that the material does not swell under the influence of an aqueous acrylic suspension.

In conclusion, we can say that it is difficult to unequivocally answer the question: how to process the OSB (OSB) board from moisture. First: it depends on whether you want to emphasize the texture of the plate clear solution or, conversely, apply a opaque (opaque) coating. Secondly: - from the financial capabilities and aesthetic ideas of the developer.