Comparison of materials for insulation. Comparison of thermal insulation of wall materials. Is it possible to paint and how to paint osb slabs

Saving heat in the house is a special function of the construction and home improvement. But what materials are the most modern, high-quality, at the same time affordable and easy to install? It is impossible to answer this question unequivocally, but the comparative characteristics below will help to understand this issue.

Description and comparison of heaters

Today, the consumer can choose a material whose properties satisfy his needs to one degree or another. The installation of the insulation also depends on what choice you make - whether you can handle it yourself, or you have to call in specialists. The structure and texture of materials matters.

Based on this criteria, we can distinguish:

• Plates - are building materials of different density and thickness, which are made by gluing and pressing;
• Foam blocks - made of concrete, with the inclusion of special additives, the porous structure is obtained due to a chemical reaction;
• Cotton wool - sold in rolls, has a fibrous structure;
• Crumb or granules - loose compactor includes foam substances of various fractions.

Properties, cost and functionality of the material - that's what draws attention. Usually the material indicates which surface it is intended for. Raw materials for insulation can be different, but in general it can be organic and inorganic.

Organic heaters are made on the basis of peat, wood and reeds. Inorganic heaters are minerals, foamed concrete, substances containing asbestos, etc. It is worth learning to evaluate and understand the properties of various substances.

Insulation properties: thermal conductivity, etc.

How effective this or that material is depends on three main characteristics - density, hygroscopicity, thermal conductivity. Thermal conductivity is perhaps the main indicator of the quality of the material. This property is calculated in watts per square meter. This indicator is also influenced by such a parameter as moisture absorption.

Density - the higher it is in a porous material, the more efficiently heat is retained inside the building. Usually this indicator is decisive if you are looking for insulation for walls, roofs or floors. Hygroscopicity refers to resistance to moisture. The same basement ceilings need to be reinforced with materials with very low hygroscopicity. Such will be, for example, plastiform.

Insulation comparison table

To show clearly and schematically what kind of insulation, figuratively speaking, what it costs, to compare, it is easier to depict it in a table. Here are the most popular heaters. They are evaluated in categories such as the above thermal conductivity, hygroscopicity and density.

Styrofoam can be considered a kind of leader in the rating of insulating materials. Availability and quite inexpensive price will also be competitive here. But it would be incorrect to advise one thing, without knowing the situation, the area of ​​\u200b\u200binsulation, financial opportunities, the amount of work, etc.

By thickness: comparison of thermal conductivity of building materials

There are many tables that mention such an important indicator as the thickness of the insulation. Indeed, a lot depends on this, because the thickness of this layer also “eats up” the space and affects the result. In this material, you can build on how thick in centimeters the minimum layer of a particular insulation will be.

Minimum layer (thickness) of insulation:

• Plastiform - 2 cm;
• Penofol - 5 cm;
• Styrofoam and polystyrene foam - 10 cm;
• Foam glass - 10-15 cm;
• Minvata - 15 cm;
• Basalt fiber - 15 cm;
• Penoplex and expanded clay - 20 cm;
• Cellular concrete - from 20 to 40 cm.

Of course, it is important for what exactly you need a heater. For example, only floors and ceilings between floors can be insulated with expanded clay. Also remember that a rare insulation will do without hydro and vapor barrier.

The nuances of the use of heaters

There are some useful recommendations that can be considered when choosing a heater and subsequent installation. For example, for the floor and ceiling, that is, horizontal surfaces, you can use literally any material. But an additional layer with high mechanical strength should be used - this is a prerequisite.

If we talk about basement ceilings, then they need to be insulated with building materials of low hygroscopicity. High humidity must also be taken into account. If this is not done, then the insulation under the influence of moisture may partially and completely lose its properties.

Well, for walls (vertical surfaces) you need to use materials in the form of plates or sheets. If you choose roll material or bulk material, then over time the materials will definitely begin to sag. So, the method of fastening must be impeccable. And this is a separate issue.

Comparative table of thermal conductivity of materials and heaters (video)

Plaster, in this case, is used to create the last layer, which largely determines the design of the premises. These mixtures are called decorative plaster. For wooden surfaces, it is recommended to use compounds that have high adhesion. We are talking about polymer-based plaster mixtures. A layer of such plaster "breathes" and prevents the formation of fungi and mold. The plaster layer contributes to a significant reduction in sound transmission and heat retention. It is environmentally friendly and absolutely safe. The wall covered with plaster looks absolutely homogeneous. Joints between plates and other defects are hidden. Such a coating will last more than twenty-five years.

Plaster mixtures are sold ready-made or dry. Dry varieties should be diluted with water or other reagent before application, in accordance with the instructions.

It is very important to make sure that the OSB boards are rigidly fixed and not subject to movement. Only after that you can start working.

Otherwise, the plaster may crack and begin to flake in places.

Decorative OSB plaster indoors. Types, characteristics.

Decorative plaster can be classified according to two parameters: by the composition of the filler and by the type of binder components. According to the type of filler, Venetian, structural, textured and flock can be distinguished.

Venetian plaster when applied, it can form a smooth surface. It contains an admixture of the smallest marble chips. This gives the surface a mirror finish.

Structural mixture has small impurities of quartz and other components. The surface is rough. Its main difference is that when applied to the wall, multi-colored spots appear on it.

Textured plaster may have a different appearance and include impurities of any suitable material. It can be small stones, pieces of mica, silk fibers or other fabric. Wall panels coated with this mixture have a pronounced texture, which is determined by the filler.

The hardest thing to work on seems to be flock mix. But it is very advantageous in design. The fact is that it consists of three layers - the main one, the layer with flocks and the lacquer coating. Pieces of dried acrylic paint are used as flocks.

Types of decorative plaster for OSB indoors by composition

According to the presence of different binders in the mixture, textured plaster can be divided into the following types:

• mineral
• acrylic
• silicone
• silicate

AT mineral plaster cement acts as a binder. It is not very suitable for OSB, as it is afraid of impact when it hardens. Although the finished layer only gets stronger over time, it lacks a certain plasticity. In case of accidental impact, a piece of the coating may separate from the wall.

Acrylic plaster Made from acrylic resin. Compared to the previous mixture, it has lower strength and service life. Has many color options. You can color the mixture yourself by adding a special color paste. It is quite suitable for application to the prepared OSB surface.

Synthetic resins serve as a binder for silicone decorative plaster. It is very plastic and can be easily applied to the wall. Silicone plaster is resistant to moisture, vapor permeable and has an antiseptic effect. There are many color varieties. This type of textured plaster fits perfectly into the solution of the task.

silicate plaster stands out in that liquid glass is used to create an astringent effect. The hardened surface has increased strength, moisture resistance, vapor permeability and antifungal effects. Such plaster will last for a long time, up to fifty years or more. This option can also be used to work with the OSB.

Textured plaster relief for OSB in the house

According to the shape of the surface relief, the most famous types of textured plaster are: “lamb”, “bark beetle” and “fur coat”.

"Lamb" has a fine-grained structure, due to the filler of small raw pebbles.

Plastered surface "Lamb".

"Bark beetle" resembles a tree that has been attacked by bark beetles.

Plastered surface "Bark beetle"

"Fur coat" has a smoother surface compared to the first option, since the filler in this case is cement.

Plastered surface "Fur coat"

Alternative to elastic plaster

The most widely used oil-adhesive putty. Supplied ready-made or concentrated. Derived mixtures:

• drying oil or oil paint - a binding component of the composition;
• CMC glue forms a strong connection between the plaster and the osb board;
• chalk as a mineral filler;
• desiccants to speed up the drying of drying oil;
• plasticizers soften the composition, facilitate the application and leveling of putty;
• water is introduced in small quantities to prevent the mixture from drying out during storage.

Nitro-fillers are applied in a thin layer. Used to treat minor damage or for decorative purposes. They have a pungent odor. Work is carried out in well-ventilated areas. Solvents act as a basis. Fillers: iron minium, koalin, zinc white. Surface finishing is required: painting or wallpapering.

There is another way to apply plaster to the surface of an oriented strand board: thin sheets of polyurethane foam are glued to the surface and plastered with cement, lime or gypsum-based mixtures.

Application technology

After acquiring all the necessary materials, you can immediately get to work. It is worth noting that smallpox putty is carried out in the same way, regardless of whether the surface will be painted or wallpapered. Puttying OSB is in the following sequence:

1. Apply primer in 2 coats. Depending on the type of mixture, the drying time varies from 4 to 12 hours.
2. Puttying. Work should take place in a room with a positive temperature and an allowable humidity of 60%. For maximum effect putty mixtures are applied in 3 layers.
3. Grinding. After the putty has completely dried, the surface is polished in order to remove possible defects and make it smooth. You also need to carefully remove the dust formed on the surface.
4. Reinforcement. Overlapping material required.
5. Alignment. An adhesive solution is applied to the surface, after which the coating is leveled. Next, you can plaster or glue wallpaper.

Puttying process

If we talk about whether it is possible to putty OSB boards, it must be borne in mind that for these purposes it is preferable to choose specialized compounds that do not contain water.

Puttying OSB walls allows you to make them suitable for painting, as well as for pasting vinyl, non-woven or liquid wallpaper.

The article provides complete information on how to putty the OSB board, tips on choosing materials and application rules. This finish is not necessary at all, but it will help protect the base from moisture and allow you to make a beautiful high-quality decorative coating.

Now you know how to putty OSB boards profitably and in a fairly short time. Compliance with the described recommendations will allow for high-quality puttying of OSB boards, with a guarantee of a long service life and maintaining a beautiful appearance.

OSB preparation and puttying technique (2 videos)

Necessary tools and putty work (36 photos)

When working with OSB boards, first of all, you need to remember that more than 90% of these products are made of wood. Therefore, high-quality finishing of OSB boards is associated with the use of materials typical for working with solid wooden surfaces. Plates lend themselves to almost any finish: they can be glued, painted, putty, varnished and even, subject to certain rules, plastered. All processing methods have their own characteristics, so each should be analyzed separately.

How to putty OSB

It is very good if the plates are not installed yet. Then you can prime their ends, which absorb moisture abundantly. When the installation has already been completed, it will no longer be possible to do this. In the process of preparing the slabs, they need to be sanded. This is the only way to achieve a noticeable increase in adhesion. In any case, it is desirable to coat all seams with sealant.

Advice! Do you want to save your time? Then it is worth buying OSB already polished. The difference in price is not so big, but they are more convenient for interior decoration of living rooms. This must be taken into account when wallpapering is supposed to be done.

To protect the OSB from moisture, as well as better adhesion, it is imperative that the boards be well primed before puttying.

Now you can proceed directly to the application of putty.

1. A polymer primer is applied. It does not need to be spared, it forms a protective film on the surface, which prevents resins from escaping. It is important to dry the surface well, this can take from three to five hours.
2. Then a thin layer of putty is applied. You can use a large spatula for this. All excess must be removed and the surface leveled. For greater effect, puttying is done in different directions. The first layer is horizontal, the second is vertical. The temperature in the room should be exceptionally positive.
3. You need to wait until everything dries well. You can start sanding. To do this, use sandpaper. All existing defects must be eliminated. This is important if no further processing is planned before applying a decorative coating. All dust must be wiped off.
4. For greater effect, you can use a painting canvas. But that's not always justified. But if possible, it will be useful. Then sticker wallpaper on the OSB plate will be even easier.

When all the steps have been completed, you can engage in decorative coating. You need to decide for yourself which method to give preference to, it can be a wallpaper sticker, painting or something else.

OSB boards are a material that has solved a large number of problems. With many advantages, it appealed to both professional builders and simple home craftsmen. This material, with all its advantages, needs additional processing. For its putty, it is better to use specialized compounds. They should not include water. Strict observance of all application rules will allow you to create a flat surface that will not cause disturbance. And then you can successfully paste the wallpaper.

Positive and negative sides of OSB boards

The advantages of OSB boards are an undeniable advantage of this material, and include:

• strength/reliability. OSB boards are distinguished by their strength due to the technology of their manufacture. Namely, a clear direction of the chips in one direction several times increases the reliability of the product;
• moisture resistance. Thanks to the processing of the plates, OSB perfectly resists moisture, does not rot and does not swell under the influence of water;
• ease of processing. Installation of OSB boards is not difficult and is perfectly carried out by one untrained person;
• resistance to natural influences. OSB boards are not afraid of insects or fungi, due to the impregnation of the material with natural oils. Also, the plates are resistant to mice trying to gnaw their way through OSB walls;
• fire resistance. OSB boards are not affected by fire, so such walls are not afraid of fires.

Of course, even such a functional material was not without drawbacks. It is only one - the difficulty in processing the surface of the plates with paints. But in the following paragraphs of the article, you will see that this problem is solved simply and elegantly.

Plate coloring

Material such as OSB can be painted with water-based or oily compositions applied with a brush, spray or roller.

The question often arises, is it possible to paint the OSB board with water-based compounds? It is possible, but this will slightly increase the shape of the sheet (swelling is possible), so it is highly desirable to use OSB 3. If you paint on one side only, this may lead to a slight bend in the panel. Therefore, it is worth treating the plate with water-based paints in the case when the appearance is not important. In opposite situations, it is necessary to use oil formulations. What are the features?

1. Any paint tends to spread at sharp corners. Therefore, before painting, they must be rounded off by light grinding (with a radius of at least 3 mm)

This is especially important for OSB used in exterior decoration.

Before painting the OSB, the perimeter is first painted

When processing boards that are outside, it is necessary to use paints intended for outdoor use. At the same time, the manufacturer's recommendations for painting wooden surfaces should be followed.

2. Edges. Their surface is more porous than the plate plane. The result is greater absorption, ie. moisture absorption

Therefore, special attention should be paid to edge sealing. Moreover, this operation must be carried out before priming and applying the main coating.

Painted OSB floor

3. Padding. If you decide to treat the plates with an antiseptic, flame retardant impregnation, then you should carefully read the instructions - some of these chemicals may contain a high alkali content, which will require the use of a special primer.

4. Layers of paint. The opinion that the thicker the layer, the better it will protect the surface, is not entirely true. It is better to apply several thin coatings than one thick one. In this case, each layer must be thoroughly dried.

• the edges must be processed before the assembly of the structure (rounded and sealed);
• if water-based sealing compounds are used, then in the future, due to swelling, mandatory grinding will be required. Therefore, it is better to use solvent-based formulations (for initial processing);
• when using transparent dyes, it is necessary to use those that prevent the penetration of ultraviolet rays (i.e. inhibitors must be present in the composition of such materials);
• slabs must be fixed in such a way that potential areas of moisture accumulation cannot arise;
• it is necessary to cover the dye on both sides equally;
• 45 degree end connection is not recommended (due to sharp edges). If the finish provides that the edges will be visible after completion of the work, then they must be filled with cellulose (wood) filler, then sanded and primed.

What is so remarkable OSB-plates

The abbreviated name OSB is actually the Russian sound of the English abbreviation OSB, which stands for oriented strand board. Translated into Russian, this expression means "oriented strand board" (OSB). And this means that the most correct name for the material, characterizing its functional features, is OSB, but builders often call it OSB.

The slabs are formed from many layers of wood chips pressed together using high pressure and high temperature. An adhesive is laid between the layers, in the role of which synthetic resins act. These OSB components are supplemented with boric acid and synthetic wax, which are also included in its composition.

Chips in product layers in different directions. For example, in one layer longitudinal laying is used, and in the next - transverse. This order makes the plate more resistant to various mechanical stresses.

At first glance, slabs look aesthetically pleasing, but such a surface is not practical. Therefore, its additional improvement with putty is necessary. The main thing is that the surface of the plate is leveled by puttying, which makes it possible to stick on the prepared layer of wallpaper or cover it with paints and varnishes. The second positive result of puttying is the extension of the life of the ceiling and walls.

Like any wood product (the content of wood chips in OSB is 80-90%), the board has the ability to absorb moisture. This property leads many to doubt the advisability of OSB puttying. Still, paint and wallpaper glue can later provoke swelling and deformation of the base. This problem is solved by abandoning the use of water-based formulations. The absence of water will eliminate the threat of swelling of the canvas.

Important! The degree of moisture resistance of OSB depends on its brand. The most stable in this respect is OSP-3

Such a plate is intended for installation in a room with high humidity.

Along with what was said earlier, it is worth noting that many people prefer the look of the natural structure of wood and wonder if it is possible to leave the surface of particle boards unchanged. Yes, it is quite possible, but this design is more suitable for a country house or utility room. In this case, it would be appropriate to varnish the panels.

2 What should be the primer

There are no specially designed formulations for OSB. Conventional solutions are used, subject to certain requirements. Immediately exclude preparations containing water. After application, it is absorbed into the material, it begins to swell. Use only a primer designed for wooden surfaces. These are compositions with an acrylic, glyptal or gypsum base. They take into account the moment that putty will be applied, so alkyd products are not used - they are good for painting.

Primer for OSB boards - universal, deep penetration. Acrylic - the most suitable of them, used for painting and puttying. For an unheated room, additives are added that prevent the development of the fungus. Some formulations, such as EuroPrimer, already contain such additives. Sold in a concentrated form, diluted before use according to the instructions.

The slabs contain resins and other substances that sometimes show through the finish and spoil the work done. To eliminate such a nuisance, a rather sophisticated technology is used. First, an insulating paint is applied (example: Aqua-Deck E. L. F.), then a dispersion putty containing synthetic resin. Allow to dry for 12 hours and stick a special material for bonding cracks in the putty: Variovlies A 50 Basic. After such preparation, no spots will appear.

In some cases, an adhesive primer is used - Betonkontakt. It differs from other compositions in the content of quartz sand, which makes the surface uneven, but with slight irregularities. It is used when decorative plaster or tile is planned as a finish. Thanks to the unusual filler, adhesion is significantly improved. When applied with a poppy brush or a long-haired roller, other tools do not provide an even distribution of the composition over the slab.

Before use, all soils are recommended to be mixed, but in the case of Betonokontakt, this is a very important operation. Quartz sand settles quickly, if the process is not carried out very carefully, the mixture will turn out to be heterogeneous. Moreover, during operation, this procedure is repeated every 10 minutes, only under such conditions the coating will be of high quality.

• acrylic-based varnish for wooden surfaces, which is diluted with a solvent in a ratio of 1:10;
• latex - after drying, a thin film is formed that prevents the penetration of resins;
• alkyd varnish, diluted to a more liquid state with white spirit.

In addition to choosing the right primer, it is important to apply it according to the technology:

1. 1. Plates are cleaned. Dried dirt is wiped off with a damp cloth, the rest is removed with a vacuum cleaner or a broom.
2. 2. Close up the joints. It is possible to use acrylic sealant or polyurethane foam. The excess is removed with a knife, and the sealant is processed with sandpaper.
3. 3. The prepared composition is applied to the OSB. Usually they start from the joints, process with special care, then move on to the rest of the surface.

The quality of priming depends on the patience of the master. Do not immediately apply a thick layer, the effect of this will not be. It is recommended to repeat the operation three times, carefully distributing the drug over the surface. Allow to dry thoroughly each time. How much time will pass depends on the air temperature and the properties of the composition and the thickness of the layer. You'll have to be patient, do something else, but the quality will be excellent.

Before puttying, the surface is first sanded and then primed. For the work, the material is selected based on a number of requirements, namely:

• Primer selection. It is necessary to prime with special mixtures intended for wood processing. As a rule, these are compositions based on drying oil or glyptal varnish that do not contain water. Priming mixtures are primarily used to process the end parts of the OSB even before the sheets are installed, since after that it is very problematic to do this. A primer will help prevent stains from resins and other substances contained in the material.

• Choice of putty. Stop your choice is on the compositions intended for finishing wooden bases. The walls should be puttied in several layers, horizontally and vertically, which will provide a more even surface. It is also worth remembering that in order to avoid the occurrence of cracks after drying, it is recommended to reinforce the surface with elastic materials, for example, non-woven fabric.

Advice! It is preferable to buy already polished plates, the price of which is not much higher, but the finishing work will be much faster.

Plaster on OSB sheets, to be or not to be

When building a house, you often have to think about saving money, or conservation of construction for a certain period. One of these ways to save or take a break to save money can be plastering the facades of a frame house.

The plastering of the facades of wooden houses became widespread in our country after the fire of 1812, and was often used until the beginning of the 20th century. Then this method of finishing facades was almost forgotten. But in the USA it was used until the 70s of the last century, until plastic siding appeared on the construction market.

Today there are two ways to apply the plaster mix on the facade of the house. The first, most common, is that the external walls of the house are pasted over with foam sheets and a plaster mixture is already applied to them. At the same time, the thermal insulation and energy-saving characteristics of the house are improved.

The second way is plastering directly on the sheets of the outer skin of the house. Unfortunately, if you are not a fan of the fakferkh style (when imitating the fakferkh, the seams are closed with flashings), then this finishing method can be considered only as a temporary one. As practice shows for 5-7 years, even if everything is done with high quality and correctly, cracks will appear at the joints of the outer skin sheets, which will spoil the appearance of the facades. But plastering on osb sheets of outer skin is an excellent way to take a “pause” and save money for finishing with facing bricks, fiber cement siding, thermal panels with clinker finishes or other materials that have a high cost.

So, how to apply the plaster mixture directly on the OSB sheets of the outer skin of the house? Already at the initial stage, it is necessary to try to reduce the joints of the sheets to a minimum - one of the ways to use OSB sheets for external cladding, format 1250 x 2800. It is also desirable to cut window and door openings in whole OSB sheets, and not use remnants of material around them.

Step 1. We pass all the joints of the OSB sheets with a frost-resistant sealant, put a self-adhesive “serpyanka” over the seams, and putty.

Step 2. We prime all walls

It is important that the primer allows the walls to "breathe" and does not isolate water vapor inside the house, for example, you can use the Knauf-Tifengrunt primer or similar for this.

Step.3. We apply a thin first layer on pre-primed sheets of outer skin, spread a fiberglass mesh on top, slightly sink it into the first layer (additionally, the mesh can be “shoot” with a construction stapler). Then we apply a second layer of plaster mixture.

Step 4. Coloring the facades in the selected color. The paint used for facades should also not isolate water vapor in the wall.

Plaster on OSB sheets, to be or not to be? When building a house, you often have to think about saving money, or conservation of construction for a certain period. One of these ways to save or take a break to save money can be plastering the facades of a frame house.

Source:

Polymer compositions for plastering

The fastest way to apply plaster on the surface of OSB boards is to use polymer compounds based on acrylic or latex synthetic resin. They are available in the form of ready-made solutions. After opening the container, everything must be used very quickly. Because the plaster sets quickly and it will not work to dilute or restore the initial consistency.

Now let's figure out how to plaster the OSB slab in this way.

• Grinding. To do this, choose coarse sandpaper. At the same time, all elements that protrude beyond the surface of the plate and are poorly connected to it are removed.
• Primer. After grinding, the slab is cleaned of dust and covered with a deep penetration primer designed for wooden surfaces. This will not only protect the wood from moisture, but also increase adhesion, which means that the plaster solution will be easier to lay down.
• If irregularities remain on the OSB plate or there are gaps at the joints, then after the soil has dried, they are treated with acrylic sealant. The composition is sent to the unevenness and carefully leveled with a spatula. This process will allow the use of less polymer plaster.
• Plastering. After the sealing layer dries, proceed to the application of the finished composition. The solution is applied to the wall and leveled until a layer 5 mm thick is obtained. You need to work quickly.

The polymer layer of plaster does not require painting, but if desired, the owner can change the color of the finish at any time. This method of decorating OSB boards is expensive, but its service life, over 25 years, makes it possible to level this disadvantage.

The compositions that are used for plastering slabs harden very quickly, so if the owner does not have experience in this area, then it is better to use the work of a professional team.

Is it possible to paint and how to paint osb slabs

The type of paint is selected based on the operating conditions of the material: indoors or outdoors, the degree of load (floor, walls), the effect of moisture, sun, sub-zero temperatures. For painting non-plastered and non-plastered surfaces, the following paints are used:

• Oil paints Coloray, Syntilor and others. They have good viscosity and adhesion to wood, suitable for painting OSB both inside and outside the house, updating the painted surface will be required in 2-3 years;
• Alkyd enamels Tikkurila, Farbex and Enamel. Used for painting outside and inside buildings, they are absorbed into the surface, creating a stronger bond with wood;

How to paint osb. A photo

Advice. To reduce material costs, use factory-ground boards. Their cost is slightly higher than unpolished products, but finishing work will take less consumables, time and effort.

Since wood tends to absorb moisture and swell, the question arises whether it is possible to paint OSB board with water-based paints. If the plate has already been treated with varnish, drying oil or primer, then it can be painted with water-based acrylic, silicone or silicate paint. If the slab does not have a waterproof coating, it should be applied independently, and the OSB should be painted only after the primer has dried. This type of paint is used for interior work and has the main advantage - they do not emit harmful fumes and can be used in residential areas, including children's rooms.

Another water-based paint used on wood is AQUACOAT. It dries quickly, forms a coating resistant to abrasion, and does not have a strong odor. Inside, painted walls and ceilings are updated based on aesthetic considerations, but can last up to 15 years without repair. The floor is painted depending on mechanical loads, but the coating should not be brought to complete abrasion in order to prevent damage to the surface of the wood board.

There are three ways to paint the osb plate after leveling with putty: with a brush, roller or from a spray gun. If the surface is painted for the first time, the paint is applied first with a brush, and after drying with a roller or spray gun. This method allows you to get a perfectly flat surface without streaks and streaks.

Execution sequence

How to putty walls from OSB? Some procedures are recommended to be done even before the installation of the plates. In particular, prime the ends of the boards, as they absorb moisture the most. After installation, this will not work.

Another preparatory stage is grinding the surface with sandpaper or a metal brush. It will also increase the adhesion between the sheet and the covering material. If you do not want to spend time and effort on this, it is better to purchase plates already polished in the factory. It will cost a little more. When everything is ready, you can get to work. By this time, all seams should be sealed and leveled.

1. Application of a polymer primer designed to create a protective film on the surface. It will prevent the appearance of stains formed by resins and other substances contained in the OSB. This layer must be dried for at least 4 hours, depending on the type of primer.
2. Puttying. It is carried out in 2 stages - a small amount of putty composition is applied to the wall with a steel spatula, and the excess is removed with the next movement. The layer is quite thin and even. It is desirable to carry out puttying in 2 layers - one in the vertical direction, the second in the horizontal direction. So the surface will be more even. This should be done in a room with a humidity of no more than 60% and only at positive air temperature.
3. After complete drying, proceed to leveling the surface with sandpaper. At this stage, it is necessary to eliminate all existing defects. Before proceeding to the next step, the walls must be thoroughly cleaned of the resulting dust.
4. Reinforcement with non-woven canvas or any other roll material intended for this. The sheets are overlapped, and then a double incision is made in the place of thickening and the excess is removed. This layer will protect against the formation of cracks that appear when the building shrinks.

After that, you can proceed to the decorative finish, whether it be painting, wallpapering or plastering.

So that when preparing the wall there are no problems, and it does not swell from moisture, it is necessary to choose the right mixture. We have already found out how to putty OSB - with plastic compounds based on polymers, oils, glue, resins or latex. A clear and phased implementation of all recommendations will create a perfectly flat and smooth surface that will last for many years to come.

3 Requirements for putty and its choice

1. 1. Acrylic. Levels any surface, including OSB.
2. 2. Nitro putty. Quick-drying composition containing cellulose, resin, plasticizers, fillers. Before use, dilute with solvents recommended by the manufacturer.
3. 3. Oil-adhesives - in the composition of varnishes, glue, additives, oil and plasticizers Dissolve with drying oil.
4. 4. Gypsum with polymers. They are considered the best for working with wooden surfaces.
5. 5. Dispersion with synthetic resin. Highly elastic, used for finishing plaster.

The listed types of putties must have certain properties

Before buying, it is recommended to read the instructions on the package and pay attention to the characteristics. Among these, a very high degree of adhesion is of particular importance, because not every compound will adhere to the resinous surface.

In preparation for use, it is important to achieve a uniform consistency. Coating requirements include strength and sandability

If it is necessary to putty small areas, then the cost of the compositions is not particularly sensitive. When finishing the whole house built using frame technology, it hits the budget. There is a recipe for self-production of the composition, which is used by some craftsmen. It consists of inexpensive components:

• oils: 2.8 kg of linseed and 0.6 kg of turpentine;
• 0.3 kg of ground pumice;
• 0.2 kg of gelatin and the same amount of casein;
• 170 ml of ammonia solution;
• 3 liters of water. Pumice is ground into dust, the mass is poured into linseed oil and stirred until a homogeneous consistency. Pour in turpentine oil and stir again. When the mixture is infused for 10 minutes, add everything else. They heat it in a water bath, stir, insist, repeat again until they achieve uniformity.

Making putty with your own hands

The cost of putty compositions of factory production is not too high. However, if you need to treat large areas, including walls, floors, ceilings, then the total cost of leveling may not be so small. Therefore, some craftsmen decide to make wood putties on their own.

To create a putty composition, you will need the following components:

• linseed oil - 280 g;
• turpentine oil - 60 g;
• ground pumice - 30 g;
• gelatin - 20 g;
• casein - 20 g;
• ammonia solution (18%) - 17 g;
• water - 300 g.

First, grind the pumice to a state of dust. Then we pour the resulting mass into a container with linseed oil and stir until we get a homogeneous consistency. Next, pour turpentine oil into the same bowl and stir the mixture well again.

Let the mixed mass brew for several minutes, after which we add the rest of the components from the list. The solution is prepared in a water bath, then stirred and infused again. After the last settling, the mixture is ready for use.

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Plaster OSB Resin Board

With the advent of polymer-based plaster compositions with high adhesion to wood, the problem of how to plaster OSB from the outside has lost its relevance. The elastic mixture effortlessly lays a thin layer on the base of the plate, tightens small irregularities. A semblance of a rubber shell is formed, resistant to mechanical and atmospheric influences.

Suitable for interior and exterior decoration. Tinted with acrylic dyes. Technical requirements are standardized:

• withstands 10% linear stretching (compression) of a square meter of coverage;
• water permeability 1 sq.m. no more than 8 grams per hour;
• operating temperature range from -50°C to +60°C;
• 150 freezing cycles without loss of quality;
• preservation of properties for at least 25 years;
• 24 hours for the applied composition to dry;
• consumption 2 - 2.5 kg of the mixture per 1 sq.m.

Plastering on osb with elastic putty is performed in the following sequence:

• the plate is cleaned with coarse sandpaper. This removes protruding wood fibers that have a weak connection with the base;
• to increase adhesion, the cleaned surface is primed with an appropriate agent;
• after the primer has dried, the irregularities are filled with acrylic sealant and smoothed out with a spatula moistened with soapy water. This will save the instrument from sticking to the composition;
• the composition is applied to the prepared surface and leveled until a layer up to 5 mm thick is obtained. The plaster on the osb plate on the facade is applied with maximum thickness, isolating the room from cold and moisture leaks. For decorative finishing of interior walls, 1.5 - 2 mm is enough.

OSB facade plaster is especially practical using decorative polymer compositions:

• bright colors will decorate any facade;
• color scheme for the entire thickness of the layer will hide surface damage;
• The building will receive additional external protection.

The high cost of composite compositions forces the developer to look for alternative options. Plastering OSB boards on the outside is possible with the use of oil-adhesive mixtures and nitro putty.

Work order

The surface is being prepared for painting or wallpapering, the humidity in the room should not exceed 60%, and the air temperature should not be lower than +200C. It is necessary to start performing puttying work after the primer has completely dried on the surface of the plate.

If heavy wallpaper is to be glued, then reinforcement is mandatory. For this purpose, fiberglass or nylon reinforcing mesh is used. Fixing the reinforcing material is possible directly on the putty, and if you decide to use fiberglass, you can glue it with wallpaper glue designed to fix non-woven wallpaper.

Fixation of reinforcing fabrics is carried out strictly butt-to-butt.

Already after applying the first layer of putty, the surface of the plate becomes absolutely even, but preparation for painting requires the creation of a second (finish) layer.

Cloths of reinforcing mesh or fiberglass are glued with an overlap, later a cut is made and excess material is removed. Thus, a quality butt joint is obtained. If an adhesive composition was used for fixing, then further work is started after it dries.

A layer of putty on an adhesive basis is applied to the reinforced surface. The layer thickness should not exceed 0.2 cm. In rare cases, puttying is permissible with the creation of a layer 0.5 cm thick.

After the first layer of putty dries (after 3-4 hours), you can use an ordinary spatula to knock off the scars and sagging remaining on the surface and proceed to apply the second finishing layer. Its thickness does not exceed 0.2 cm.

An important condition for the quality of work is the processing of the surface of one wall without stopping. This will avoid the appearance of a sharp boundary between the layers and facilitate the final processing of the created surface. After 10-12 hours after completion of work, you can start grinding. To do this, you need sandpaper or a mesh coated with fine abrasive components.

More video process:

Performing work on puttying OSB boards is not particularly difficult. The quality of the created surface depends not only on the skill of the master, but also on the right putty.

When purchasing the desired composition, you should take into account all the requirements and recommendations of qualified craftsmen.

It is better to start the construction of each object with the planning of the project and careful calculation of thermal parameters. Accurate data will allow you to get a table of thermal conductivity of building materials. Proper construction of buildings contributes to optimal climatic parameters in the room. And the table will help you choose the right raw materials that will be used for construction.

The thermal conductivity of materials affects the thickness of the walls

Thermal conductivity is a measure of the transfer of heat energy from heated objects in a room to objects with a lower temperature. The heat exchange process is carried out until the temperature indicators are equalized. To designate thermal energy, a special coefficient of thermal conductivity of building materials is used. The table will help you see all the required values. The parameter indicates how much heat energy is passed through a unit area per unit time. The larger this designation, the better the heat transfer will be. When erecting buildings, it is necessary to use a material with a minimum value of thermal conductivity.

The thermal conductivity coefficient is a value that is equal to the amount of heat passing through a meter of material thickness per hour. The use of such a characteristic is necessary to create the best thermal insulation. Thermal conductivity should be taken into account when selecting additional insulating structures.

What affects the thermal conductivity?

Thermal conductivity is determined by such factors:

• porosity determines the heterogeneity of the structure. When heat is passed through such materials, the cooling process is negligible;
• an increased density value affects the close contact of the particles, which contributes to faster heat transfer;
• high humidity increases this indicator.

Use of thermal conductivity values ​​in practice

Materials are represented by structural and heat-insulating varieties. The first type has high thermal conductivity. They are used for the construction of ceilings, fences and walls.

With the help of the table, the possibilities of their heat transfer are determined. In order for this indicator to be low enough for a normal indoor microclimate, walls made of some materials must be especially thick. To avoid this, it is recommended to use additional heat-insulating components.

Thermal conductivity indicators for finished buildings. Types of insulation

When creating a project, all methods of heat leakage must be taken into account. It can exit through walls and roofs, as well as through floors and doors. If you do the design calculations incorrectly, you will have to be content with only the thermal energy received from the heating devices. Buildings built from standard raw materials: stone, brick or concrete need to be additionally insulated.

Additional thermal insulation is carried out in frame buildings. At the same time, the wooden frame gives rigidity to the structure, and the insulating material is laid in the space between the uprights. In buildings made of bricks and cinder blocks, insulation is carried out outside the structure.

When choosing heaters, it is necessary to pay attention to such factors as the level of humidity, the effect of elevated temperatures and the type of structure. Consider certain parameters of insulating structures:

• the thermal conductivity index affects the quality of the heat-insulating process;
• moisture absorption is of great importance when insulating external elements;
• thickness affects the reliability of insulation. Thin insulation helps to save the useful area of ​​​​the room;
• flammability is important. High-quality raw materials have the ability to self-extinguish;
• thermal stability reflects the ability to withstand temperature changes;
• environmental friendliness and safety;
• soundproofing protects against noise.

The following types are used as heaters:

• mineral wool is fire resistant and environmentally friendly. Important characteristics include low thermal conductivity;

• Styrofoam is a lightweight material with good insulating properties. It is easy to install and is moisture resistant. Recommended for use in non-residential buildings;
• basalt wool, unlike mineral wool, has better resistance to moisture;
• penoplex is resistant to moisture, high temperatures and fire. It has excellent thermal conductivity, easy to install and durable;

• polyurethane foam is known for such qualities as incombustibility, good water-repellent properties and high fire resistance;
• extruded polystyrene foam undergoes additional processing during production. Has a uniform structure;

• penofol is a multilayer insulating layer. Contains polyethylene foam. The surface of the plate is covered with foil to provide reflection.

Bulk types of raw materials can be used for thermal insulation. These are paper granules or perlite. They are resistant to moisture and fire. And from organic varieties, you can consider wood fiber, linen or cork. When choosing, pay special attention to such indicators as environmental friendliness and fire safety.

Note! When designing thermal insulation, it is important to consider the installation of a waterproofing layer. This will avoid high humidity and increase resistance to heat transfer.

Table of thermal conductivity of building materials: features of indicators

The table of thermal conductivity of building materials contains indicators of various types of raw materials that are used in construction. Using this information, you can easily calculate the thickness of the walls and the amount of insulation.

How to use the table of thermal conductivity of materials and heaters?

The heat transfer resistance table of materials shows the most popular materials. When choosing a particular option for thermal insulation, it is important to consider not only physical properties, but also such characteristics as durability, price and ease of installation.

Did you know that the easiest way is to install penooizol and polyurethane foam. They are distributed over the surface in the form of foam. Such materials easily fill the cavities of structures. When comparing solid and foam options, it should be noted that the foam does not form joints.

Values ​​of heat transfer coefficients of materials in the table

When making calculations, you should know the coefficient of resistance to heat transfer. This value is the ratio of temperatures on both sides to the amount of heat flow. In order to find the thermal resistance of certain walls, a thermal conductivity table is used.

You can do all the calculations yourself. For this, the thickness of the heat insulator layer is divided by the thermal conductivity coefficient. This value is often indicated on the packaging if it is insulation. Household materials are self-measured. This applies to thickness, and the coefficients can be found in special tables.

The resistance coefficient helps to choose a certain type of thermal insulation and the thickness of the material layer. Information on vapor permeability and density can be found in the table.

With the correct use of tabular data, you can choose high-quality material to create a favorable indoor climate.

Thermal conductivity of building materials (video)

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Today we will be engaged in a comparative analysis of various thermal insulation materials. Let's compare heaters for strength, thermal conductivity, combustibility, etc. Let's compare the prices of the material and the cost of its installation. We will try to present the information in such a way that it would be most simple and comfortable for you to choose the best option for yourself. Of course, there is absolutely no point in comparing heaters designed for completely different purposes. Therefore, we will break down our comparison by area of ​​application: thermal insulation of the foundation, thermal insulation of walls, roofs, etc.

1. Comparison of heaters for unloaded structures: attic, pitched roof, frame walls, floors between joists

Summary table of characteristics of low-density heaters used in unloaded structures:

The most important characteristic of a heater is thermal conductivity, i.e. its ability to transmit heat. The lower the thermal conductivity, the better the insulation. The thermal conductivity index is indicated for our climatic zone (central Russia). As we can see from the table, mineral wool P-75 (P-60 or P-80) will insulate everyone worse. Thus, this insulation will need to be laid one and a half times more than, for example, Penoplex, whose thermal conductivity is the best.

The density of the material for mineral insulation will affect their ability to withstand loads (in our case, their own weight), and hence the possibility of using them in vertical structures (walls). In the walls, it is recommended to use mineral insulation with a density of at least 40 kg / m³, otherwise they may shrink, forming cold bridges. Heaters are suitable for walls:,.

This rule does not apply to expanded polystyrene (including extruded), which has sufficient strength at low density to be used in vertical structures. But these materials, unlike mineral ones, are combustible and non-breathable. And the foam, and moreover, emits harmful substances, sometimes with a noticeable smell.

And, of course, an important factor in choosing a heater is its price. It is difficult to estimate the real cost of the material in the store, because the price is indicated for packaging, and their volume is always different. Therefore, in our comparison, we used the price per cubic meter. Note that prices may change over time, but their relation to each other remains approximately the same. So, the most expensive material presented by a wide margin is extruded polystyrene foam, in second place is a basalt mineral wool insulation. The cheapest material is polystyrene, but with a very small margin it is followed by basalt insulation.

Mineral wool P-75 is made from slags of metallurgical production, it is unpleasant to the touch and can crumble, forming a suspension that can have a negative impact on human health. Therefore, it is necessary to mount it only in protective clothing and a mask. Needless to say, it is not desirable to have such a heater in a residential building if you want to be healthy. It will cost almost the same, which, although it has a slightly lower density, is much better quality. An even more interesting option for a price of about 1,500 rubles per cube is, with a caveat to the fact that its density is even lower, which means it is recommended to use it only in horizontal and inclined unloaded structures.

Conclusion: for vertical frame walls, the best choice would be , and for inclined and horizontal structures (pitched roofs, floors), the best choice would be .

2. Comparison of insulation for exterior walls under plaster

3. Comparison of heaters for combustibility

We bring to your attention a video with tests of common heaters for flammability.

Today in this article we will consider the topical issue of our time about the service life of heaters in the table.

As a rule, houses, buildings and other structures are insulated for a long time, therefore materials are needed as reliable and of high quality as possible. Many people believe that various kinds of heaters do not last more than 30 years. Taking into account the fact that the wall, which is insulated, costs about 100 years, we come to the conclusion that during this time the procedure must be done 2-3 times. If you calculate the cost of such an update, then it may not please.

As with everything, it is believed that the life of the insulation depends on its cost and quality. Manufacturers of an inexpensive substance claim that it can last at least 50 years. In practice, this figure is not confirmed by anything, so in the footnotes they write that today there is no standard operating time for heaters.

In addition, it is important what the material is made of. Experts confirm that artificial fibers cannot be guaranteed for more than 35 years. During this time, they dry out and break down. But the most important thing is that they lose half of their heat-saving properties.

While natural fibers do not lose their original qualities and can last a longer period. According to regulatory recommendations, after construction is completed, each house must be subjected to an energy audit. Such checks should be carried out once every 25 years in order to assess the level of heat-saving properties at the moment. But since we are unable to find out the exact figures due to verification, we use the data that comes to us from Europe.

Comparative characteristics of the service life of heaters table

There are many types of heaters, but today we will take a closer look at the most budgetary and reliable options. These include:

Mineral wool. Basal wool. Styrofoam.

Name Service life Mineral wool 25-40 years Basal wool 40-50 years Styrofoam 30-50 years Polyurethane foam 20-50 years Foam glass 80-100 years

The first type is called stone. It has a fairly high level of quality, since it is made from basalt stone. Its cost is much higher, but both the quality and the period of suitability live up to expectations.

According to statistics, mineral wool is used most of all in construction. The service life is about 50 years. But this indicator is still disputed, and it has several nuances. At the moment there are two types of mineral wool.

The second is slag. This means that water practically cannot penetrate into it, and the material itself is quite dense. Accordingly, it is made from slag from the metallurgical industry. It is significantly inferior to the previous one in terms of price, quality, and service life.

In addition, it is not resistant to sudden changes in temperature and after a certain time it can be deformed. But despite this, it is often used as the best option if the building is temporary or less significant. Of course, it is recommended to use stone wool for larger structures. Although it is more expensive, but when it comes to safety and quality, there can be no question of saving. It is worth noting that this substance has two important advantages: which in extreme heat can heat up to high levels.

As well as other effects of high temperatures will not become a threat to the insulation, and, accordingly, to you. Vapor permeability. Izover has the ability to "breathe", which is also important. The material easily passes all vapors through itself, but at the same time they do not accumulate inside. This property makes mineral wool environmentally friendly, and in combination with thermal insulation, this is a huge plus.

In addition, additional treatment from condensate is not required. Basal wool is not inferior in the duration of the period of action of the previous substance. Manufacturers give a guarantee of over 50 years. A very long time ago, insulation made of fibrous material began to be used in construction. But the peak of its operation has been in the last couple of decades.

This was due to the intensive construction of country houses, as well as the increase in heating prices. It is there that the material is very popular. Over time, the quality of basal wool has improved significantly. Now it is an environmentally friendly and safe product.

Of the main advantages, several aspects can be distinguished: Fire safety. The material is easily able to withstand high temperatures without losing its properties. Low hydrophobicity. The substance repels moisture, which significantly increases the life of the insulation. Compressibility. Basal wool is very resistant and does not deform. Chemical resistance.

Rotting, fungus, rodents, mold and harmful microorganisms will no longer become a threat to your home. Despite the combination of circumstances, the materials are of excellent quality, do not deform or crumble. Substances are used everywhere and have many positive reviews. With such insulation, your walls will be able to stand for more than 100 years.

Service life of polystyrene as a heater

Another commonly used material for insulation is polystyrene. It is generally accepted that the shelf life of expanded polystyrene reaches several decades.

Manufacturers give a guarantee on the durability of the material for 50 years. However, with the correct warming procedure, this period can be doubled. This is one of the main reasons why it is so popular.

It should be borne in mind that there are several types of insulation made from foam:

Polystyrene. Material that is made in the form of foam rubber. Suitable for indoor protection.

It has very high performance characteristics. Polyvinyl chloride substances are very elastic. They have a very high resistance index. Polyurethane foam. It is considered a hardy thermal insulation that will last for quite a long time, quickly hardens, forming a very strong protection that can withstand many external influences.

Based on the above materials, we can conclude that the service life of the foam is very long and fully meets expectations.

Today, manufacturers of thermal insulation materials offer developers a really huge selection of materials.

At the same time, everyone assures us that it is his insulation that is ideal for warming the house. Due to such a variety of building materials, making the right decision in favor of a particular material is really quite difficult. We decided in this article to compare heaters in terms of thermal conductivity and other equally important characteristics.

It is worth first talking about the main characteristics of thermal insulation, which you need to pay attention to when buying. Comparison of heaters by characteristics should be done, keeping in mind their purpose. For example, despite the fact that XPS extrusion is stronger than mineral wool, but near an open fire or at high operating temperatures, it is worth buying a fire-resistant insulation for your own safety.

Comparison of heaters by characteristics

Thermal conductivity. The lower this indicator for the material, the less it will be necessary to lay a layer of insulation, which means that the cost of purchasing materials will be reduced (if the cost of materials is in the same price range). The thinner the layer of insulation, the less space will be "eaten up".

Heat loss of a private house through structures

Moisture permeability. Low moisture and vapor permeability increases the life of the thermal insulation and reduces the negative impact of moisture on the thermal conductivity of the insulation during subsequent operation, but at the same time the risk of condensation on the structure increases with poor ventilation.

Fire safety. If the insulation is used in a bathhouse or in a boiler room, then the material should not support combustion, but rather must withstand high temperatures. But if you insulate the tape foundation of the blind area of ​​​​the house, then the characteristics of moisture resistance and strength come to the fore.

Economy and ease of installation. The insulation must be affordable, otherwise it will simply be impractical to insulate the house. It is also important that you could insulate the brick facade of the house on your own, without resorting to the help of specialists or using expensive installation equipment.

Characteristics of expanded clay fraction 20-40 mm

Environmental friendliness. All building materials must be safe for humans and the environment. Let's not forget to mention good sound insulation, which is very important for cities where it is important to protect your home from street noise.

What characteristics are important when choosing a heater? What to look for and ask the seller?

Is it only thermal conductivity that is decisive when buying insulation, or are there other parameters that should be considered? And a bunch of similar questions come to the mind of the developer when it comes time to choose a heater. Let's pay attention in the review to the most popular types of thermal insulation.

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene)

Styrofoam is the most popular insulation today, due to its ease of installation and low cost.

It is made by foaming polystyrene, has low thermal conductivity, is easy to cut and easy to install. However, the material is fragile and fire hazardous; when burned, the foam releases harmful, toxic substances. Expanded polystyrene is preferably used in non-residential premises.

Foam insulation of the blind area and basement of the house

Extruded polystyrene foam

Extrusion is not subject to moisture and decay, it is a very durable and easy-to-install insulation.

Technoplex boards have high strength and compressive strength, do not decompose. Due to its technical characteristics, technoplex is used to insulate the blind area and the foundation of buildings. Extruded polystyrene foam is durable and easy to use.

Basalt (mineral) wool

Insulation is made from rocks, by melting and blowing them to obtain a fibrous structure.

Rocklite basalt wool withstands high temperatures, does not burn and does not cake over time. The material is environmentally friendly, has good sound insulation and heat insulation. Manufacturers recommend using mineral wool to insulate the attic and other residential premises.

Roof insulation with mineral wool Rocklight TechnoNIKOL

Fiberglass (glass wool)

At the word glass wool, many people associate with Soviet material, but modern materials based on fiberglass do not cause skin irritation. A common disadvantage of mineral wool and fiberglass is low moisture resistance, which requires a reliable moisture and vapor barrier when installing insulation. The material is not recommended for use in wet areas.

Foamed polyethylene

This roll insulation has a porous structure, various thicknesses are often produced with an additional layer of foil applied for a reflective effect. Izolon and penofolimeet thickness is 10 times thinner than traditional insulation, but retains up to 97% of heat. The material does not allow moisture to pass through, has low thermal conductivity due to its porous structure and does not emit harmful substances.

Insulation of the strip foundation outside the polyurethane foam

Sprayed thermal insulation

Sprayed thermal insulation includes PPU (polyurethane foam) and Ecotermix. The main disadvantages of these heaters include the need for special equipment for their application. At the same time, the sprayed thermal insulation creates a durable, continuous coating on the structure without cold bridges, while the structure will be protected from moisture, since PPU is a moisture-proof material.

Comparison of heaters. Thermal conductivity table

Comparison of heaters by thermal conductivity

A complete picture of which insulation should be used in a particular case is given by the thermal conductivity table of thermal insulation. You just have to correlate the data from this table with the cost of insulation from different manufacturers and suppliers, and also consider the possibility of using it in specific conditions (insulation of the roof of a house, strip foundation, boiler room, chimney, etc.) (4.33 out of 5 )Loading…

When building a new house or major repairs, the question arises of choosing the optimal method of insulation. So that after the completion of the work there is no feeling of bitter regret about wasted money and time, the thermal insulation option must be selected based on its characteristics, main advantages and disadvantages.

When designing a house, it is also necessary to think about its thermal insulation.

What requirements should a high-quality insulation for a house meet?

In the modern construction market there is a huge variety of materials for insulation. They are divided into insulation for walls, floors, roofs, doors, quality. The widespread belief that the main criterion for choosing this building material is density is erroneous.

The average density of thermal insulation materials is quite low in comparison with most building materials, since pores occupy a significant volume. The density of modern heaters is in the range from 17 to 400 kg / m 3.

Table of the effectiveness of the use of heaters.

It is taken into account when comparing the characteristics of heaters intended for thermal insulation of floors, foundations and external cladding, for which an additional protective layer is not provided. In addition, this characteristic affects the choice of the supporting structure and the method of fastening. All different materials can have the same density but different thermal conductivity.

An important indicator that should influence the choice is water absorption.

The room itself and the walls of both ordinary and wooden houses always contain a certain amount of moisture, which can condense and adversely affect the quality of thermal insulation. Sorption humidity is a characteristic showing the maximum mass volume of moisture in a building material absorbed from the atmospheric layer or home air. Especially the water absorption coefficient is important when choosing a heater intended for rooms with high humidity (bathroom, bathroom, bath and sauna).

This indicator must be taken into account when performing external thermal insulation of buildings located in wetlands or having a high occurrence of groundwater. For example, extruded polystyrene foam has a high density, but low water absorption. Significantly reduce the water absorption of mineral wool and fiberglass heat-insulating materials allows their hydrophobization, for example, by introducing organosilicon additives.

High-quality insulation materials always have good sound insulation.

Characteristics of mineral wool.

The durability of the coating structure is also affected by the chemical resistance of the heat-insulating material (this, as a rule, should be taken into account when choosing materials for insulating the coatings of industrial buildings) and its biological stability.

It is also worth considering such physical properties as:

Vapor permeability. This parameter becomes important when installing energy-saving cladding in houses with high humidity and when insulating the roof; Air permeability.

The characteristic becomes important if the insulating material is installed in several layers, and especially when insulating indoors (walls, floors and ceilings) and balconies. Combustibility. It must be taken into account if the insulating lining does not provide for a decorative and protective finish. This rule is regulated by fire safety instructions.