U-shaped attic on a sloping roof insulation. How to insulate the attic floor for winter living: do it yourself Eco-friendly and natural materials

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The use of attic space for residential has long become familiar to most domestic developers. Due to this, it is possible to obtain a completely comfortable living space with minimal financial costs. True, for a comfortable stay, one very important condition must be met - to properly insulate the roof. This is the only way to not only minimize heat losses during the heating season, but also maintain a favorable microclimate in the rooms.

Currently, the construction industry produces a wide range of heaters with high heat saving rates. In order to facilitate the adoption of the optimal decision, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the performance characteristics of each of them.

Builders use two ways to insulate the roof of the attic, each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Warming outside

The arrangement of the roofing pie takes place in the following sequence: installation of the truss system, vapor barrier from the attic side, laying insulation, waterproofing (wind protection), lathing and counter lathing, roofing materials.

To the advantages of this method includes the ability to qualitatively control each technological operation and, if problems are detected, to correct them in a timely manner.

But there is also a serious drawback. If during the laying of the insulation (mineral wool) it rains, then very big troubles will arise. Cotton wool quickly absorbs a lot of water, and dries without dismantling for a very long time. The only best option is to get the materials and dry them on a flat area. But during dismantling, a lot of mineral wool is damaged, it needs to be replaced, and this significantly increases the cost of the roof.

And one more problem. Wet cotton wool bends so much that there is a possibility of damage to the integrity of the vapor barrier. This layer must be airtight, otherwise moisture freely enters the insulation with all extremely negative consequences.

Warming from the inside

The order of arrangement of the roofing pie changes. After the construction of the truss system, waterproofing, lathing and counter lathing are laid and roofing materials are installed. On this you can take a big break - the attic is completely protected from precipitation.

Builders are quietly engaged in other internal work, further insulation does not depend on the weather and can be performed at any convenient time. From the side of the attic, a heater is installed, fixed in niches between the rafter legs and sealed with a vapor barrier.

How is vapor barrier different from waterproofing? What kind of material is vapor barrier and wind protection? Why choose membranes? Look for answers to these questions in the article on our website. Features of various materials and the rules for their installation.

The advantage is obvious - precipitation does not adversely affect the quality and timing of the construction of a warm roof. The only, and then very conditional, drawback is that it is difficult to control the gap between the wind protection and the insulation. But this is not critical for two reasons:

1. First, experienced roofers have their own methods for checking the distance between the insulation and the windscreen.
2. Secondly, there are the most modern membranes that can be laid right next to mineral wool, their effectiveness is not reduced by this.

To insulate a mansard roof, several types of materials can be used. The specific choice should take into account the cost of insulation, the climatic zone of the building location and the wishes of the customer.

What materials can insulate the roof of the attic

A wide selection of heaters puts inexperienced developers in a difficult position. It is difficult for them to find objective information, each manufacturer heavily advertises only their products. And advertising is often not entirely true. In the table below, we will try to give objective performance characteristics of each type of insulation materials.

Type of insulation	Description of physical and performance properties
	Quite often used material for insulation of various structural elements of the building. There are species that are highly resistant to open fire and do not exceed the permissible sanitary standards for the release of chemical compounds. Such parameters made it possible to use this material in residential construction, although not on all architectural elements of the building. The advantages of polystyrene are low cost, high manufacturability, and the complete absence of water absorption. The latter property makes it possible to achieve significant additional financial savings on roof insulation - there is no need to install vapor protection, a control lath for ventilation of the under-roof space and wind protection (hydro protection). The disadvantage is that for unknown reasons this material is severely damaged by rodents, because of this it is necessary to provide a special set of measures to prevent them from entering the heat-insulating layer, but this is not difficult to do, the materials are cheap.
	The insulation is made on the basis of foam, the difference is increased strength parameters. For the insulation of mansard roofs, physical strength does not matter, but because of this, expanded polystyrene costs much more than polystyrene. Another disadvantage is that increased strength increases thermal conductivity, and therefore extruded polystyrene foam is inferior to polystyrene foam in terms of the effectiveness of roof insulation.
	Recently, it has been very popular among developers, but some professional builders are very critical of this material. There are two positive qualities of mineral wool: high resistance to open fire and complete environmental protection. But these advantages can be considered conditional for several reasons. ● Firstly, if there is a big fire, then there is no difference how the roof of the attic is insulated, in any case the house will burn down completely. ● Secondly, from the inside of the attic room, they are finished with dense materials, which completely eliminates the penetration of harmful chemicals into the rooms. You need to know that not only foam plastic emits aldehydes, but also all plastic products, furniture varnish, etc. But no one takes varnished furniture outside, they are not afraid of aldehydes. The disadvantages of mineral wool include high cost and significant weight, hygroscopicity, air purge (heat is removed). Pressed mineral wool has the same disadvantages as rolled, only in an enlarged form.
	The advantages include the complete tightness of the insulation, there are no gaps between the foam and wooden structures. The disadvantages are the unevenness of the layer in thickness. Sealed polyurethane foam does not require protection against vapor penetration. This method of insulation is recommended to be used on roofs with a soft roof, a continuous crate is made for them, and this is a prerequisite. Its surface is smooth and without gaps, which allows you to apply liquid foam.

We specifically do not give comparative indicators of the thermal conductivity of various materials, they are almost the same and in practice the differences are imperceptible.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

September 7, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Some time ago, I completed an order for attic insulation for winter living. While doing the work, I thought that the technology I used is quite simple and even an unprepared person can make thermal insulation with their own hands from the inside.

In today's material I will tell you what is better and how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands. This guide will help you avoid the same mistakes that I had to make in the beginning of my career as a builder.

I assure you that at the end of the work, the attic floor of a wooden house will turn from an unnecessary storage of trash into a cozy and comfortable room, for living in which all your household members will fight.

Features and methods of insulation of the attic room

Before talking about ways to insulate the under-roof space from the inside, I want to note that this is a must, even if you are not going to live in a house in the winter. The fact is that the attic, due to its location, is very warm by the sun in the summer, so without a reliable insulating layer, the temperature inside will be uncomfortable (or you will have to install a very powerful air conditioner).

If you have already insulated ordinary living quarters and think that you know how to insulate the attic, I have to disappoint you. The thermal insulation of a room under the roof (not an ordinary room on the second floor, namely the attic) has some features that I simply have to mention:

1. The geometry of the attic room follows the contours of a pitched roof, therefore it is far from a standard cube or parallelepiped. Insulation will have to be installed on inclined surfaces, so the choice of heat-insulating material will have to be approached with great care. For example, the use of too soft and flexible products is completely excluded.
2. The roof truss system and roofing are always made of lightweight materials so as not to exert a large load on the load-bearing walls of the house. Consequently, the heat-insulating cake should weigh as much as to only slightly weight the structure, otherwise the roof may collapse with a significant snow load.
3. In addition to the roof slopes, the attic has two more gables and a floor (it is also an attic floor). If you do not perform thermal insulation of these surfaces, all efforts to install insulation in the rafters will not lead to any significant result.

1. The roofing material, no matter how reliable it may be, can pass atmospheric moisture, which, in turn, can damage the insulation layer or significantly reduce its technical characteristics. Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to reliably protect the thermal insulation from moisture.
2. When buildings catch fire, the fire usually moves to the upper part of the dwelling, where the attic is located. Therefore, to ensure the possibility of evacuating people from this room for thermal insulation, I personally recommend using non-combustible or poorly flammable heaters. After all, the matter is further aggravated by the fact that the roof truss system is made of wood, which cannot be classified as NG.
3. And last but not least, environmental friendliness. Care must be taken to ensure that the insulation does not pose a danger to people living in the attic, regardless of the conditions of its operation - heating, moistening, freezing, and so on.

First, let's decide on the method of thermal insulation. There are two options:

1. Insulation of attic walls. This method is resorted to in the case when the roof slopes are not the walls of the attic. The role of the latter is played by additional partitions made of wood, drywall, plywood, and so on, which should be insulated.
   The advantage of this method is the presence of additional ventilated space under the roof. Minus - a decrease in the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

1. Insulation of roof slopes. In this case, the heat insulator is installed in the truss system, after which it is possible to divide the spacious attic with the help of thin partitions, without worrying about cold or heat. The advantage is that the entire under-roof space will be insulated. And with the help of partitions, you can divide it into several separate rooms, arranging an additional pantry in the attic room.

I prefer the second method of insulation, so it will be discussed further.

Choice of materials and tools

It's time to decide how to insulate the attic room from the inside. To do this, you can use expanded polystyrene, expanded clay, polyurethane foam, ecowool and many other heat insulators that domestic and foreign industries offer to purchase.

But I am insulating the attic with basalt wool. This material, in my opinion, best meets the requirements for the heat-insulating layer of such a room.

I will briefly list the most important advantages of basalt mats:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The material retains heat indoors so well that for effective thermal insulation it is enough to install a layer 10 cm thick.
Hygroscopicity	Basalt fibers do not absorb water and have hydrophobic properties, so moisture that has got inside is quickly removed through the gaps without reducing the operational properties of the material.
Vapor permeability	The material does not prevent air infiltration, normalizing the humidity in the attic and extending the life of wooden parts.
Incombustibility	Basalt wool does not ignite in a fire and contributes to the extinction of the flame, giving time for the evacuation of people or the elimination of the source of ignition.

I could talk about the advantages of mineral wool for a long time, but this is not the topic of today's article. Therefore, he simply noted the better it is to insulate the attic from the inside.

I prefer to use TechnoNIKOL Technolight Extra basalt mats 10 cm thick, 120 by 60 cm in size. It is not advisable to buy a denser material, since it will not experience load between the rafters.

It is very important to pay attention to the dimensions of the material. I chose TechnoNikol mats because their width is 60 cm, namely, this is the distance between adjacent rafters in the case I am describing.

In addition to direct thermal insulation, other materials are also needed:

1. Wooden bars with a section of 30 by 50 mm, with the help of which a counter-lattice will be formed for ventilation gaps that help remove moisture.
2. Super diffuse vapor permeable hydro- and windproof membrane. These films are of especially high quality from Strotex and Juta, so I recommend buying them.
3. Penofol. A thermal reflective material that I'm going to use in place of the standard vapor barrier film that keeps the mineral wool from getting wet from inside the room.

1. Antiseptic primer. She needs to process the roof trusses to prevent the appearance of mold and fungus. You can buy a composition with fire retardants, thereby increasing the fire safety of the building.
2. OSB boards. They will be needed to construct the crate, on which flexible tiles are laid on one side and eurolining on the other. If you are going to use other materials, then a solid crate may not be needed.
3. Polyurethane mounting foam. Useful for sealing joints between mineral mats.
4. U-shaped perforated brackets for mounting galvanized lathing. For me, they will hold the installed mineral mats in place until they are sewn with decorative material.

Well, now you can safely move on to how to insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands.

Arrangement of insulation

The whole process of warming can be conditionally divided into several steps:

So, I will explain how to do the work correctly with my own hands in each of the mentioned stages.

Step 1 - Laying waterproofing and roofing material

Let's start with the installation of the waterproofing membrane, since it is installed outside the room before fixing the roofing. Only in this way can the insulating layer be reliably protected from the ingress of atmospheric moisture into it.

I must say right away that the entire roof truss system in the case I am describing was installed. However, the roofing material and the crate on it have not yet been laid.

The process consists of the following steps:

1. I roll out the first layer of hydro- and windproof membrane. You need to start work from the bottom of the roof slope, gradually moving up. The membrane is fixed with staples and a construction stapler or wide-head nails. It is necessary to install the film not tight, but with a slight sag (about 2 cm per meter), so that when the air temperature decreases, it does not tear.

1. I lay the second and subsequent sheets of waterproofing film. You need to act in the same way as in the previous paragraph. But there is one point here. The edge of the top membrane should overlap the edge of the bottom one by 10 cm to ensure complete impermeability to moisture.

1. I seal the seams of the membrane. For this, adhesive tape is used. It just needs to be glued to the joints of adjacent waterproofing membranes.
2. I install a control panel. Its role is played by wooden bars, which are fixed with self-tapping screws over the waterproofing membrane on the rafter supports. Previously, I recommend impregnating them with an antiseptic and flame retardant in order to extend the life of the roof structure.
3. I fix the boards of the additional crate. They are installed perpendicular to the rafters and fastened with self-tapping screws to the counter-bar. The step between adjacent parts is about 40 cm.

1. I install OSB base plates. They are attached to the boards with self-tapping screws. Here it is necessary to monitor the length of the fastening fittings so that too long screws do not tear the hydro- and windproof membrane located below.

1. Installing a flexible roof To do this, a lining carpet is glued to the slabs, after which shingles of flexible tiles are fixed on it.

If you are insulating the attic with a finished roof, then the waterproofing membrane will have to be installed from the inside. This method has two disadvantages:

• the labor intensity of the work being carried out increases;
• waterproofing film will not protect the wooden roof trusses.

It is necessary to fix and seal the film so that it wraps around the rafters and adheres to the roofing sheathing. Thus, peculiar baths are formed, in which insulating material will be invested.

But before that, it is necessary to prepare the under-roof space for the installation of mineral mats.

Step 2 - Preparing the truss system

The space under the roof, namely the truss system, is being prepared for thermal insulation:

1. I clean wooden parts from dust and debris, remove objects that interfere with the installation of mineral mats. It is best to clean the rafters with a vacuum cleaner, which will remove dust, sawdust and shavings left after the installation of the roofing material. You should also check if the sharp ends of screws, nails, and so on do not stick out from somewhere. They can cause injury or damage insulation materials.

1. I install engineering communications and insulate them. Ventilation and chimney pipes can be installed on the roof, as well as the electrical wiring necessary to connect household appliances in the attic room:
   • Ventilation pipes, if they are laid in the non-insulated part of the attic, must be thermally insulated with mineral wool or foam shells.
   • For a chimney, a box should be designed to pass through the attic floor and roof. They must be filled with heat-insulating material (most often perlite or expanded clay), which will increase the fire safety of the room.
   • Electrical wiring should be placed in polymer flexible or rigid cable ducts that will prevent the rafters and insulation layer from igniting in the event of a short circuit.

1. I prime wooden surfaces. For work, it is better to use a universal composition that has both antiseptic and fire-fighting properties. For example, the composition for wood BS-13 or Fire protection Strazh-2. It must be applied to wooden parts with a roller or sprayer, after processing in two layers with intermediate drying for 3 or 4 hours.

1. I install U-shaped brackets on the side surfaces of the rafters. It is not necessary to use them, since with the correct installation of the rafters, the mineral mats become tight by surprise. But I'm used to playing it safe, and their acquisition does not hit hard on the budget planned for insulation. But if you use cotton wool in rolls, you can’t do without it.

Step 3 - Installation of thermal insulation

Insulation of the attic from the inside continues. Let's move on to the main part:

1. I do cutting mats. Mineral wool is cut into the required pieces with a sharp knife or saw with very fine teeth. If the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation, there is practically no need to trim.

1. I install mats between the rafters. To do this, you need to slightly bend the material in the middle, and then insert the insulation in the right place. Having straightened, the basalt mat will take its place and will not fall out of the inclined surface.

1. I fix the mats with brackets. You just need to bend part of the bracket so that its edge is on the surface of the mat and holds it in place. Instead of brackets, you can use galvanized perforated tapes that are attached directly to the lower edges of the rafters.
2. I seal the seams of the material with polyurethane mounting foam. Gaps must be filled with a gun. Moreover, act in such a way that the composition is inside the entire gap, and not just on its surface. If you make a mistake at this stage, cold bridges may form at the joints, which will reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

To increase the reliability of the heat-insulating layer, you can install not one, but two layers of insulation. Just take mineral mats with a thickness of not 10, but 5 cm. Then the individual layers are installed so that the joints are apart. And cold bridges can not be feared at all, although it is still worth sealing the seams.

Step 4 - Finishing coat

Decorative finishing of the enclosing structures of the attic room is carried out as follows:

1. I install a heat-reflecting and vapor barrier layer. As you understand, penofol will serve me for this - foamed polyethylene with a reflective layer of polished aluminum foil. It is mounted as follows:
   • The first sheet of penofol is installed with a foil layer towards the living quarters, after which it is aimed at the rafters using a construction stapler.
   • The second and subsequent sheets of material are installed so that between the individual elements there is an overlap of 10 cm.
   • The joints of the penofol are glued with double-sided adhesive tape (inside the joint) or metallized tape (which is glued on top of the joint). It is necessary to make sure that a completely homogeneous and sealed layer is formed.
   • If the thickness of your rafters is such that the edge of the insulation does not reach the cut of the tree, then penofol must be laid on the surface of mineral wool, fixing it on the side surface of the roof support beams. Otherwise, it may rustle when air passes through the ventilation gap.

1. I mount the bars of the control battens for arranging the ventilation gap. It is necessary to fasten the planks with self-tapping screws to the rafters on top of the foam. These details create a gap between the finish and the heat-reflecting surface, which is necessary to remove condensed moisture.

1. Installing OSB boards. They are attached to the counter-lattice with self-tapping screws. Everything is standard here, with the exception of some small nuances:
   • It is necessary to install the sheets so that at the edges (at the gables and the floor) there is a gap of 1-2 cm thick. It is necessary to remove excess moisture and compensate for possible changes in the size of the material.
   • The seams between adjacent slabs should be staggered (staggered) and be 2-3 mm thick to avoid warping of the surface during thermal expansion of the base.
   • It is necessary to fix the plates so that their edges are located on the bars of the counter-lattice. The distance between the screws is no more than 20 cm.

You can later install eurolining or other decorative material on the plates. And we have ahead of the insulation of the gables, which form two of the four walls of the attic room.

Step 5 - Warming the gables

I strongly advise these parts of the attic to be insulated from the outside, using dense mineral wool for this, which can be covered with cement plaster on top. The scheme of work is as follows:

1. Preparing the surface for work. To do this, you need to clean the surface of the walls from the remnants of mortar, debris, dirt and dust. After that, the following operations are performed:
   • Damage repair. If gaps and cracks are found in the masonry, they must be sealed with cement mortar or blown out with mounting foam.
   • Surface priming. To do this, you need to take a primer for a brick or (not the one with which you processed the rafters), and then cover the pediments with it in two layers with intermediate drying.

1. I mount the start profile. This is a perforated galvanized part on which the insulation layer will rest. It is fixed at the bottom of the wall strictly horizontally. If several of these parts are needed, then install them with a small gap to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

1. I glue the first row of mineral mats. Let me remind you that you need to use dense mineral wool, which is intended for subsequent finishing with cement mortar. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • The surface of mineral wool is pre-reinforced with cement glue, which is evenly distributed over the slab with a spatula.

• A bead of cement glue is applied to the mineral wool at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Several lumps of glue are also placed in the middle of the mat so that at least 40% of the sheet surface is covered.
• The part is attached to the wall. at the same time, its lower end must be supported on a pre-installed starting profile. Using a water level, it is necessary to check that the basalt mat is installed strictly vertically in all planes.
• Behind the first layer, other mats are glued to the wall in the same way. It is necessary to follow the verticals, and that the seams between adjacent parts are minimal.

1. I glue the second and subsequent rows of mineral mats. There are no differences compared to the procedure described in the previous paragraph. You just need to make sure that the vertical ones go sideways. That is, the seam of the upper row fell in the middle of the insulation sheet of the lower row (as in brickwork).
2. After the solution hardens, I fix the insulating layer with dowels - “fungi”. They are installed as follows:
   • A hole is drilled directly through the mineral mats in the wall using a perforator, the depth of which in brick or concrete should exceed 2 cm.
   • A dowel is inserted into the resulting hole, after which the core is installed inside.
   • Using a hammer, the core is hammered into the dowel so that its cap is slightly recessed into the surface of the insulation.
   • It is not only mineral mats that need to be fixed. "Fungi" should be installed in the seams of the insulating material so that the heat-insulating layer does not come off under load.

1. I seal the seams of the material. To insulate the joints, polyurethane foam is used, which glues the fibers of the insulation together, preventing the formation of cold bridges at the junctions of adjacent mineral plates. It is necessary to fill the seam with a gun as tightly as possible.
2. I reinforce the surface of the insulation with an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh. To do this, mineral mats are covered with a reinforcing compound, after which a mesh is placed on it and pressed into the mortar with a plaster trowel. Then a little more solution is applied on top so as to completely hide the mesh inside.
3. I do surface finishing. The reinforced insulated surface of the gables is plastered, after which it is decorated with the selected decorative material. In the simplest case, you can simply paint the gable with facade paint.

That's all. Some still resort to thermal insulation of the interfloor ceiling, however, with such powerful insulation that I have described, I consider this procedure unnecessary.

Summary

Now you know how to independently perform the correct insulation of the walls in the attic floor and the floor with your own hands using mineral wool at the lowest cost. However, there are other options.

For example, sprayed polystyrene foam, with which it is easy to carry out thermal insulation of complex areas, including the Mauerlat in a heated attic. You can learn how to spray PPU yourself from the video in this article.

If you have any questions - ask them in the comments!

Properly executed insulation of the attic roof is the key to a comfortable atmosphere in this room, and a long service life of the interior decoration of the attic room. In order to be warm and comfortable in winter, and in summer you are not disturbed by heat and stuffy air, it is very important not only to choose the right heat-insulating materials, but also to mount them in compliance with the technology. Today we will tell you how to insulate a mansard roof with your own hands, which heaters are best suited for this purpose, and most importantly, how to avoid common installation errors that reduce all efforts to almost zero results. You will learn all the most important things about the insulation of the mansard roof - the video clips attached to the article will clearly demonstrate all the subtleties of this work.

Insulation of the attic roof has its own characteristics, due to the fact that the walls of the living space are directly adjacent to the roof, more precisely, they actually form a single whole with it. That is why it is customary to pay close attention to the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside, which allows you to ensure a normal microclimate in the room. Before we start talking about how to insulate the attic roof from the inside, let's figure out what layers the so-called “roofing pie” consists of, and why it is so important to arrange these layers in the right sequence:

The diagram shows the correct order of arrangement of the elements of the thermal insulation system of the attic roof

What is the reason for this arrangement of layers? Elementary laws of physics. Imagine that a decent layer of snow fell in winter, which, by the way, is a natural heat insulator. As a result of the life of people living in an attic house, warm air will rise from the inside to the surface of the roof. The snow covering it will melt. And as soon as the temperature outside drops below zero, an ice crust forms, which no longer has any heat-insulating properties. The essence of proper insulation of the attic roof is to prevent the snow from melting in winter and the penetration of scorching heat in summer.

The scheme of air movement in the under-roof space, and the work of the vapor barrier during the insulation of the mansard roof

You will learn more about the device of the "roofing pie" and the principles of the correct operation of all its components from this informative video:

The better to insulate the attic roof: the choice of insulation

There are four most important criteria, based on which it is necessary to choose a high-quality insulation for a mansard roof:

• Thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance;
• fire safety;
• Ecological purity.

The first parameter can be called decisive, since it is on how low the thermal conductivity of the material you have chosen depends on its thickness, the number of layers, and most importantly, its efficiency.

Important Insulation for a mansard roof with a coefficient of thermal conductivity not higher than 0.05 W / m * K can be considered sufficiently high-quality and reliable.

The second indicator is also important, especially for the attic roof truss system made of wood. The resistance of the insulation to moisture will allow you to worry less about the possibility of damage and decay of wood. Why the fire safety of insulating materials is important, it is probably unnecessary to say. And, finally, the environmental friendliness of the insulation in the case of attic rooms is also of great importance, especially if it is a bedroom or a children's room in the attic.

Comparative table of building and finishing materials with an indication of their thermal conductivity coefficient

As shown in the picture above, insulating a mansard roof with ecowool is an excellent solution, since this mineral insulation meets all four criteria for choosing a material. However, it cannot be called the most affordable, so many craftsmen refuse to use ecowool in favor of cheaper, but no less effective heaters. For example, insulation of the attic roof with polyurethane foam allows you to achieve the same excellent effect, while saving money. Among the effective mineral and polymer insulation can also be called:

• Basalt wool;
• glass wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• Styrofoam.

By the way, it is the insulation of the mansard roof with foam plastic that can be called the most economical and simplest method. But it is worth remembering that the foam does not let steam through, moreover, rodents often settle in it. Expanded polystyrene can be called a more modern and technically advanced alternative to conventional foam. This video will help you choose the best option for insulation for the attic roof:

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic with your own hands

Do-it-yourself insulation of a mansard roof is not at all difficult; for this you do not need to have the skills of a professional builder. The specifics of the installation of thermal insulation depends entirely on the type of insulation material you have chosen. If the attic roof is insulated with mineral wool or glass wool, the process will take a little longer than in the case of polystyrene or polystyrene. The fact is that cotton wool is stacked in several layers to achieve a good effect, and requires additional vapor barrier, because it strongly absorbs moisture.

The technology of insulation of the attic roof from the inside with mineral wool on the example of a broken gable roof

The thickness of the mansard roof insulation is directly proportional to its thermal conductivity, that is, the denser and more reliable the material, the less it will be needed. Usually, during the installation of thermal insulation, an additional layer is made from cotton wool to cover the rafters. But this categorically does not suit many owners of residential attics, since truss beams can act as an important decorative element of the future interior of the attic room. If you consider yourself one of these owners, extruded polystyrene foam is preferable for you, a small layer of which is laid between the rafters.

Advice Before starting work on roof insulation, consider the future design of the attic space, and select the type and method of laying thermal insulation that best suits your interior design.

For everyone who wants to know in detail how to insulate a mansard roof - the video below. This short film tells about the insulation of the roof of a wooden country house made of glued laminated timber with a gable roof with the help of the most modern and high-quality thermal insulation material - extruded polystyrene foam.

1. Method for calculating the distance between the rafters

2. Rafter structure for corrugated board

3. Roof structure for ceramic tiles

4. Rafter structure for metal tiles

5. Rafter structure for ondulin

6. Rafter structure for slate coating

7. Rafters for single-pitched and double-pitched roofs

The roof frame must be reliable and durable.

But without well-conducted calculations, this is difficult to achieve. In the process of carrying out the calculations, it is determined at what distance to put the rafters on the roof.

What can lead to an incorrect or inaccurate calculation of the loads that the truss structure will undergo? To the most negative consequences, ranging from deformation of the rafter legs and damage to the roof covering and ending with the collapse of the base of the roof frame. Therefore, when designing buildings, the list of mandatory calculations contains data on what should be the distance between the roof rafters.

There is a certain technique that allows you to calculate this value.

Method for calculating the distance between the rafters

The distance between the rafters on the roof is called the pitch of the rafters. As a rule, the step of the rafters in the roof structure usually exceeds one meter, and the minimum gap varies within 60 centimeters.

The calculation of the required number of rafters for a roof of a certain length and the pitch of the rafters is carried out as follows:

• before calculating the length of the rafters, measure the length of the slope along the eaves of the roof;
• the resulting value is divided by the selected distance between the rafters.

  For example, the step is one meter, so it must be divided by one, and if it is 60 centimeters, then the divisor will be 0.6;

• then one is added to the result, and the total is rounded up.

Thus, by simple calculations, the number of rafters that must be installed to equip one roof slope is determined.

After that, the length of the slope is divided by the number of rafters obtained, as a result of which the value of the interaxal gap between the rafters, called the step, is obtained.

For example, with a roof slope of 25.5 meters and a step of 0.6 meters, the calculation is performed as follows:

25.5: 0.6 \u003d 42.5 + 1 \u003d 43.5, after rounding to the nearest whole number, the result will be 44 - so many rafters will be needed for the roof slope.

This simple technique, which allows you to determine at what distance the rafters for the roof are placed, does not take into account the features of the roofing material used.

Rafter structure for corrugated board

The step of the rafter system when creating a roof from this material should be at least 600 millimeters, and the maximum step of the rafters under corrugated board should not exceed 900 millimeters.

When the gap is larger, then it is necessary to install transverse boards with a large cross section. In this case, the cross section of the rafters themselves is selected in size

50x100 mm or 50x150 mm (read: "Installation and dimensions of roof rafters").

For laying corrugated board, a crate of boards of 30x100 millimeters is required, it is mounted with a step of 500 mm or more, depending on the thickness of the roofing material and the height of the trapezoid.

When a crate for corrugated board is created, the board facing the eaves should be 10-15 millimeters thicker than the rest. The design of the crate must allow passage for fastening such vertical elements as ventilation pipes, a chimney, etc.

Roof structure for ceramic tiles

The design features of the rafters for laying ceramic tiles are due to the fact that clay is the raw material for its manufacture - the material is quite heavy, its weight is 10 times greater than that of metal tiles.

Thus, the load on the supporting system of the roof, based on one square meter of area, is from 40 to 60 kilograms.

Rafters for such a frame system must be made from well-dried wood, the moisture content of which does not exceed 15%. For their production, a bar with a section of 50x150 millimeters or 60x180 millimeters (for reliability) is used.

In this case, the step of the truss system is 80 - 130 centimeters, depending on the steepness of the roof slope. So at an angle of inclination equal to 15 degrees, the distance between the rafters is 80 centimeters, and at 75 degrees - 130 centimeters.

When calculating the step between the rafters, experts take into account their length.

At the maximum value of the length of the elements, when performing work, the minimum distance between them is observed. With short rafters, it should be as large as possible.

Safe movement on a roof with a slope of less than 45 degrees can be made if the rafter pitch does not exceed 80-85 centimeters.

When arranging a ceramic roof, there is another feature - this is a certain size of the crate step, with which it is stuffed onto the rafters. It depends on the type of tiles purchased.

The simplest way to calculate the pitch of the crate is to take into account that most of the tiles have a length of 400 millimeters, and the overlap during laying is from 55 to 90 millimeters.

Therefore, in this case, the pitch of the crate is equal to the length of the tile minus the amount of overlap, which is 310-345 millimeters (read: "Crate of the roof for metal tiles: installation and fastening").

When the roof has several slopes, as in the photo, the sheathing step and the number of rows of tiles are calculated for each step of the rafters separately.

Mansard roof insulation: video instruction

The marking of the rows is carried out with the help of a cord fixed on the counter-lattice, which is located on opposite sides of the roof slope (read also the article: “Crate step for corrugated board”).

Roof structure for metal roofing

During the construction of suburban private real estate, metal roofing can be found most often.

This roofing material is similar to the flooring made of clay tiles, but in comparison with it has a number of advantages. Sheet metal tiles are easy to install, so you can build a roof in a shorter time, the rafter system for metal tiles is also not difficult.

Metal tiles are lighter than ceramic products, the difference in weight sometimes reaches 35 kilograms per square meter, depending on the thickness of the products (read also: “Arrangement of a rafter system for metal tiles - design options, rafter pitch”).

Due to a significant reduction in the weight of the roofing, it becomes possible to reduce the thickness of the elements of the truss structure and the cross-sectional dimensions of the lathing bars, and increase the installation step of the rafters.

Under the metal-tiled coating, the rafter legs are mounted with a distance of 600 to 950 millimeters, while the cross section of the construction material is 150 by 50 millimeters.

According to experts, in this case, if a heater 150 millimeters thick is placed between the rafters, then such thermal insulation will create comfortable conditions for staying in the attic room. At the same time, for greater reliability, it is advisable to choose a 200 mm insulation.

When installing rafters, to ensure ventilation of the space that is filled with insulation, holes with a diameter of 10-12 millimeters are drilled in the rafters near the upper roof.

The technology for creating a truss system for metal tiles does not differ significantly from structures for other types of roofing materials.

The only feature is that at the rafters, the upper support is mounted on the ridge run from above, and not on the side of the ridge beam. The presence of a free zone between the rafters ensures air circulation under the roofing, and this, due to the use of metal material, reduces the risk of condensation.

When installing the roof in a wooden house, when it is planned to replace the Mauerlat with the upper crown, if it is incorrect to calculate at what distance the rafters are placed, it will be difficult to correct the error (read also: “How to calculate the rafters on the roof”).

Rafter structure for ondulin

When creating a roof from ondulin, the pitch of the truss system should be at least 600 millimeters, and the maximum distance between the rafters should not exceed 900 millimeters.

For the rafter system, boards of 50x200 millimeters are selected and thereby provide an insignificant margin of safety, taking into account the rafter runs.

On top of the counter-lattice and the truss structure, a crate of 40x50 mm timber is laid with an interaxal step of 60 centimeters (read the article: “Ondulin or metal tile - which is better”).

Rafter construction under a covering from slate

Slate is one of the most popular roofing materials. For its installation, choose rafters with a section of 50x100 or 50x150 millimeters. When deciding how far to put the rafters, one must proceed from the fact that the minimum value cannot be less than 600 millimeters, and the maximum - 800 millimeters (for more details: "How to put the rafters on the house").

For the manufacture of crates, a wooden beam with a section of 50x50 millimeters or a board of 25x100 millimeters is used.

The step of the lathing is selected depending on the angle of the slope of the roof slope. If it is insignificant, then it is enough for the sheet of material to rest on 4 bars in increments of 45 centimeters, and with a large slope, 3 bars in increments of 630 to 650 millimeters will suffice.

How to make the installation of a roof from corrugated board with your own hands, a detailed video instruction:

Rafters for single-pitched and double-pitched roofs

When creating a rafter structure, one should remember the need to provide the system with an additional margin of safety, while taking into account the pitch of the rafters.

The distance between the rafters of a pitched roof is chosen depending on the thickness of the wood and the material of the roof - it can be from 60 to 140 centimeters. The thickness of the wood elements depends on the area and load on the roof (read: "Rafter system of a pitched roof, main advantages and characteristics").

The distance between the rafters of a gable roof is made taking into account the size of the heat insulator that is laid between them. The approximate step between the rafter legs is 1-1.2 meters (read: "The gable roof truss system and its components"). Rafters regulate the size of the roof overhang.

Insulation of the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered

The desire of many owners of country houses to make the most of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house makes them pay attention to the attic. It often happens that it is easier to equip an attic than to expand a house by adding a residential building to it. Since the attic is part of the roof of the house, it is with the thermal insulation of the roof that the arrangement of the attic floor should begin. Consider how to properly insulate the attic with mineral wool and show detailed video instructions on the topic.

It is necessary to insulate the attic with mineral wool and equip the attic under the room if the roof of the house allows you to make the ceiling in this room of sufficient height and it will be possible to strengthen the interfloor ceilings in order to safely walk in the attic.

If these two conditions are feasible, then you can safely proceed to independent thermal insulation of the attic with basalt mineral wool for living in winter.

The better to insulate the attic

First, consider the most important question - the better to insulate the attic with foam or mineral wool. Let's determine which heat-insulating material is suitable for proper insulation of the roof of the attic floor.

To do this, the following parameters should be taken into account: thermal conductivity coefficient, resistance to high temperatures and moisture, fire safety, environmental friendliness and low weight.

Most of these requirements are met by fiberglass or mineral wool. Unlike basalt insulation, Technoplex expanded polystyrene does not withstand high temperatures and is a very combustible material.

Knauf glass wool and Rocklight basalt wool is a fire-resistant and fire-resistant material, and with high-quality vapor barrier, mineral wool will not be afraid of moisture.

Comparison of building materials by thermal conductivity

Mineral wool is made from natural material - basalt. The material has a density of 18 to 45 kg / m³, has good heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties.

Insulation of mansard roofs from the inside, instruction and video

We reviewed various grades of mineral wool, their purpose and characteristics in the Inorganic Thermal Insulation section. Therefore, we will not dwell on this topic separately.

Ways to insulate the attic at home with mineral wool

The attic is insulated in two ways: under the rafters and between them. The easiest way is to place mineral wool between the rafters. This method is used to insulate the roof even at the stage of building a house, but you can use the technology even after construction is completed.

You can do the work on the thermal insulation of the attic with your own hands, if you have sufficient competence.

In addition to this method, there is also a technology for placing basalt insulation under the rafters.

This technology provides for the construction of an additional frame for the installation of mineral wool, which entails an increase in costs. However, this method has an important advantage - the absence of cold bridges between the insulation and the rafters, which will protect the wood from possible wetting and decay.

Insulation of the attic with the location of thermal insulation under the rafters will be easier and more correct, but at the same time the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is lost.

In both cases, the use of a vapor barrier in order to cut off the moist air of a warm room from penetrating into the basalt fiber and moistening it. You should also take care of ventilation in the attic of the space between the roof and the insulation.

We warm the attic with mineral wool with our own hands

1. Construction of the frame of the attic room

The mineral wool should be located at a distance between the guides of the frame, for this the beam is installed at a width of a smaller width of the insulation by 1-1.5 cm.

The thickness of the timber should be equal to or greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation in the attic. To do this, you should use a heat engineering calculator to calculate the thickness of the mineral fiber insulation for the roof and attic of a private house.

Condensation often forms on a metal roof, so wood treatment with an antiseptic is necessary to protect it from moisture.

2.

Laying mineral wool in the frame

Rocklight mineral wool or another brand is placed in the frame, the plates should be placed in a spacer, without gaps. It is better to lay the slabs in two rows so that the second layer of mineral wool overlaps the joints of the first row. Do not forget that when working with mineral wool, you should protect yourself from mineral wool microparticles floating in the air by putting on gloves, a respirator and other personal protective equipment.

Insulation of the attic with mineral wool from the inside and outside

3.

Installing a vapor barrier membrane

To protect glass wool or mineral wool from moisture, cover the entire structure with a super diffuse membrane. The material is able to pass air, preventing the penetration of moisture particles and wetting of mineral wool.

To do this, you should find out which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation, otherwise you may encounter serious problems when operating the attic.

4. Sheathing the frame with drywall

Before sheathing the frame, wooden slats 20-30 mm thick should be filled to create a gap between the false wall and the vapor barrier film.

This air will allow moisture to evaporate more efficiently from the surface of the film. Many people use foil penofol instead of vapor barrier, the material provides additional insulation, reflects heat and protects the mineral wool from moisture.

A photo. Do-it-yourself attic sheathing with drywall

5. Plasterboard wall decoration

The seams between the sheets of drywall are glued with masking tape and puttied.

After the rough layer has dried, the putty is sanded, and the entire surface of the wall is primed. At the last stage, all the walls in the attic are covered with finishing putty, wallpapered or painted. Watch the video at the end of the article for all the stages of attic insulation with mineral wool from the inside.

6. Laying the floor on the attic floor

After insulating the ceiling and walls, you should start laying the floor finish. A substrate for a laminate or parquet board is spread on the subfloor, and the floor covering is laid on top.

Self-insulation of the attic with mineral wool is not an extremely difficult task, and if you have experience in working with a construction tool, then the work can be done on your own.

To date, the insulation of the mansard roof is very popular in construction.

The construction of houses with mansard roofs is very relevant in the suburban area and is widespread.

Attic houses are not only very presentable externally, but also provide an opportunity to increase the usable area from the inside.

Their only drawback is the scheme of full contact of the walls and ceiling of the attic with the street, which creates certain problems with thermal insulation.

This can cause a loss of about 30% of heat and create condensation from the inside.

This is due to the fact that warm air, rising, will collide with a cold roof, which will subsequently lead to the appearance of fungi, mold, and possibly rot.

Therefore, if you do not want to have all these problems, then it is better to take care of thermal insulation in advance. The article tells how to make the insulation of the attic roof correctly.

Varieties of heaters

• Mineral wool (a convenient material that is slightly compressed during installation, after which it straightens itself and fits exactly into the nest);
• Polyurethane foam (sprayed directly onto the surface);
• Ecowool (the content of the antiseptic in the composition prevents damage to the insulation and wood);
• Styrofoam (lightweight material that does not weigh down the roof).

Polyfoam is one of the most popular. Styrofoam is used to insulate pitched and flat roofs, and most importantly, it is ideal for ceilings in the attic floor.

Styrofoam insulation can be carried out both on an open roof and after laying the roofing.

Why styrofoam?

The material has undeniable advantages, thanks to which it occupies one of the leading positions in the market.

Here are the main ones:

• Polyfoam has low absorbency, so moisture simply flows down it without getting inside the material;
• It is light in weight, which significantly reduces the load on the roof structure from the inside;
• Quite easy to install;
• Has a low cost;
• Conforms to accepted heat conduction standard.

If you decide to use foam, then you should not forget about the two main disadvantages, such as vapor impermeability and high flammability.

You can avoid them if you make good ventilation of the attic space and adhere to established fire safety standards.

Room preparation

Before you buy materials and start warming the house, you need to study and prepare the room from the inside as best as possible, especially if you plan to do all the work yourself.

For this you need:

If you plan to insulate the roof of the house with your own hands, then when choosing foam sheets, do not forget about some important points:

• It is necessary to choose the right size of the sheets so that during the installation of the elements, their joints are as small as possible;
• Proper insulation of the house is carried out with polystyrene foam along a broken line, the thickness of which is at least 10 mm .;
• The higher the density of the material, the greater its strength under mechanical stress and the better the thermal insulation;
• Read the specifications on the package. Buy only quality material.

Remember: the foam has good sound conductivity and it is better to buy an additional layer of special sound insulation (at least 5 cm thick) and install it from the inside of the decorative sheathing.

With the right do-it-yourself installation device, all external sounds will be absorbed by the soundproofing layer, and will not disturb the peace and quiet in your home.

Mounting technology

The insulation of the mansard roof from the inside is quite simple and its scheme is quite suitable for properly installing the material with your own hands.

First you need to lay the waterproofing film.

That's right, use a special roofing film (Izospan is most often taken), with a broken membrane structure that releases steam only in one direction, from inside the room to the outside.

The film is laid on top of the rafters across, without stretching along the entire length of the roof (do-it-yourself device assumes a possible slight sagging).

Make sure that a smooth water vapor barrier is on the outside. The next strip of film is laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm, and special adhesive tape is used to glue the joints.

When installing with your own hands, remember that an air gap must be left between the layer of films and the crate.

To do this, five-centimeter bars are nailed on the rafters on top of the film, boards for the crate are installed on the bars, and only after that, the roofing is laid.

Styrofoam sheets are laid between the rafters, excluding any gaps. You can cut them with a clerical or ordinary long knife using a metal ruler.

Sheets with insulation are attached to the rafters using auxiliary rails or polystyrene glue.

If the rafters have a circular cross section, then fixing with glue is not enough.

Proper fastening is done by filing from the boards, which will hold the foam layer in several places.

After laying, voids may remain along the broken line, they can be filled with construction foam.

Useful advice: to increase the service life of foam sheets, experts recommend using, in addition to glue, mounting screws and dowels.

This fastening prolongs the shelf life and reliability of the design.

If you do not remove the space along the broken line, then cold air will penetrate there and condensate will accumulate from the inside, causing smudges and rotting processes.

To exclude this, you can lay sheets with foam in 2 layers also along a broken line, covering the lower joints with the top layer. The top and bottom layers are glued together.

For additional soundproofing of the space, soundproofing mats made of fibrous material are used.

It should be remembered that the fiber absorbs moisture well, so it must be covered with a vapor barrier anti-condensation film.

The film is overlapped along a broken line, while gluing the joints and fixing it on the rafters (filing), construction or furniture stapler.

With the help of wooden bars or profiles that serve as guides, the skin is attached.

When choosing their thickness, remember that it is necessary to leave a space for ventilation of at least 3-5 cm. For sheathing, natural materials are mainly used, on which condensation cannot form.

Mansard roof insulation is one of the key steps in creating a reliable roofing pie, which is designed for a long service life. To ensure comfortable conditions for year-round living in the attic floor of the house, it is important to choose a high-quality insulation and properly install it.

Functional features of the thermal insulation layer of the roof

Properly executed insulation of the roof structure from the inside makes it possible to provide a favorable microclimate in the attic room. In the cold season, heat will be effectively stored there, and in the heat, thermal insulation will not allow overheating of the air in the rooms under the mansard roof. To create effective roof insulation, you need to understand the intricacies of the roofing pie installation technology and use high-quality materials and tools. An introductory video is helpful.

Insulation of mansard-type roofs is carried out according to the same principles as the insulation of ordinary roof structures, but increased requirements are imposed on mansard roofs. This is due to the design features of the attic rooms, the walls of which are either formed by the slopes of the roof and the gables of the house, or are closely adjacent to the slopes. For this reason, the air in the attic in the summer heat is very hot, and cools down quickly in winter.

The mansard roof multi-layer cake consists of the following components (from the inner layer to the outer):

• vapor barrier layer;
• insulation;
• gap for ventilation;
• waterproofing;
• roofing material.

The presence of all layers is mandatory, since each of them performs a strictly defined function. Increased attention is required for ventilation and the heat-insulating layer of the roofing pie, since the level of comfort when living in the attic floor of the house depends on their quality performance.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to pay attention to such an indicator of the material as thermal conductivity.. It characterizes the ability of a material to transfer heat into or out of a room. The lower this indicator, the better the material protects against heat leakage, therefore, the smaller the layer of insulation can be used to achieve the required thermal insulation characteristics of the roof.

In a heated room, the greatest heat loss occurs through the roof, since, in accordance with the laws of physics, warm air rises. Heat penetrates through the roofing cake and is transferred to the top coat, which is covered with a layer of snow in winter. Snow has a porous structure, and due to internal air pockets, it acts as an external heat insulator at air temperatures below -2 degrees.

If the heat loss of the house through the roof is large, the roofing material heats up, which causes the snow to melt. When the air temperature drops, the melted snow forms an ice crust. This is dangerous for roofing, as when freezing water has a negative effect on the outer surface of the roof. Ice, unlike snow, is not a heat insulator, moreover, it is denser in structure - the ice crust on the roof significantly increases the load on structures. If the insulation from the inside is done correctly, in winter the snow on the roof does not melt.

In the hot summer period, excess heat is transferred from the roof to the inside of the room. The air can overheat so much that even air conditioners will find it difficult to maintain a normal microclimate on the attic floor. Installing a reliable heat-insulating layer from the inside of the roof will avoid such problems. Of course, the air in the attic will be heated more than in the rooms on the first floor, but the difference will not become uncomfortable.

Features of mansard roof ventilation

Mansard roof insulation requires a special approach. This is due to its design features. If we compare the device of an ordinary roof and an attic, it is obvious that the main difference is the size of the ventilation space between the living quarters and the roof. Ventilation of a conventional roof is provided by the presence of an attic with dormer windows. The ventilation space of the mansard roof is very limited - it is only about 10-15 centimeters.

Properly performed ventilation is extremely important when arranging a mansard roof roofing pie.. The ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the insulation helps to remove excess moisture from under the roof, protecting the entire structure and extending its service life. In winter, ventilation prevents overheating of the roof and the formation of an ice crust on it. In hot weather, due to the ventilation from under the roof, part of the heat is removed, thanks to which it is possible to avoid overheating of the air in the attic floor and the structural elements of the roof.

The choice of insulation

At the stage of preparation for the installation of the roofing cake, you should decide on the choice of material for insulation. The number of layers and the thickness of the thermal insulation depend on the correctly selected type and technical characteristics. A wide range of materials for the insulation of roof structures is presented on the modern construction market. Among the most requested are:

• polyurethane foam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• glass wool;

Foamed glass can also be used, various types of natural insulation for installation from the inside (wood chips, seaweed, granulated paper, etc.).

There are four main criteria for choosing a thermal insulation material:

• coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance;
• fire resistance;
• environmental Safety.

Note! To insulate a mansard roof, it is recommended to use a material with a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.05 W / m * K and below.

The higher the moisture resistance of the insulation, the longer it will retain its functional qualities. The index of resistance to burning is an important criterion for ensuring the safety of the house. It is also important to consider the environmental friendliness of the material and its safety for humans. But the last two parameters do not affect the durability and effectiveness of roof insulation.

Mineral wool - a heater made from a melt of rocks. The material holds heat well, does not rot, is resistant to temperature extremes and aggressive environments, and practically does not absorb moisture. Mats of various thicknesses made of mineral wool are especially convenient to use for roof insulation if the pitch of the rafters matches the width of the mat.

Glass wool is made from molten glass, in terms of its properties this type of insulation is close to mineral wool, but has a lower thermal threshold of -450°C. It has good heat and sound insulating characteristics. Glass wool is frost resistant. Moisture can accumulate between the glass wool fibers, so waterproofing must be done correctly.

Mineral wool and glass wool allow you to insulate the roof with minimal financial investment. The disadvantages include the need to create a thick layer of insulation and several layers of vapor and waterproofing.

It is possible to insulate the roof structure from the inside with the help of polymeric materials - expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam. The advantages of polyurethane foam (gas-filled plastic) include a high ability to retain heat, lightness, and durability. Polyurethane foam does not pass steam and is not affected by moisture. Extruded polystyrene foam allows you to effectively insulate the roof - its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.05 W / m * K. The material has hydrophobicity, does not pass steam. Flammability class from G1 to G4, depends on the brand of material. The disadvantages of polymer insulation include their artificial origin and relatively high cost.

If there is a goal to build a house exclusively from environmentally friendly materials, you can insulate the roof with natural heat insulators. Despite good thermal conductivity and environmental friendliness, various types of natural insulation have their drawbacks. Foamed glass is highly brittle. Granular paper, as well as mats made of reeds, straw, seaweed and similar materials are highly flammable and require special skills during installation.

Insulation installation technology

To understand how best to perform the installation of thermal insulation when arranging a roofing pie, you must first familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for the work. In general, it boils down to the following actions:

• preparation of space for the installation of insulation;
• laying a heat-insulating layer;
• material fixation.

At the stage of preparing the project of the rafter structure, the step with which the rafters will be installed should be determined. In this case, it must be borne in mind that the rafter system must be reliable, that is, the step should not exceed the recommended values. If the type of insulation is selected in advance, it is recommended to install the rafters in such a way that the mats or insulation boards fit tightly between them from the inside. This simplifies the insulation technology and minimizes the waste of thermal insulation material.

Above the thermal insulation, between the crate and the rafters, waterproofing is laid. The material is overlapped, laying starts from the bottom edge of the slope. Then wooden counter-battens are mounted - their thickness creates the required ventilation gap of the roof. Reiki can be attached to the rafters with nails, but it is better to use self-tapping screws. Insulation is laid and attached to the prepared structure from the inside between the rafters.

A rafter leg made of metal or wood is a cold bridge, since its thermal conductivity is much worse than that of a heat insulator.

For this reason, when insulating the attic, you should not limit yourself to installing a heat insulator between the rafters - it is better to make a continuous heat-insulating layer on top of the already laid mats and rafters. For a continuous layer, it is better to use a thinner insulation. This method improves the quality of insulation. The disadvantages include the fact that in this case the rafters are hidden, and it is more difficult to use them in the future to fasten other structural elements. To facilitate the progress of further work, the location of the rafters should be correctly noted.

A vapor-permeable film should be laid on top of the thermal insulation. Its use allows you to remove excess moisture. Then the prepared structure is fastened with a crate. At the final stage of work, the inner lining of the ceiling is performed. Properly performed roof insulation allows you to use the attic floor as a living space all year round, in which a favorable microclimate is maintained. For a detailed answer to the question of how to insulate a mansard roof, it is recommended to pay attention to the thematic video with detailed instructions.