With seasonal or periodic use of a suburban area, laying paving slabs in the country can be done according to the budget option. The intensity of traffic here is low, you can use the cheapest curly paving elements (FEM), abandon full-fledged borders and carvings.
The main problem of an individual developer is traditionally a limited budget. The technology of laying curly paving elements (FEM) with your own hands for decorating paths can be simplified. However, some mandatory requirements remain unchanged:
- the device of a rigid spatial "trough";
- removal of the arable layer, replacing it with crushed stone or sand with layer-by-layer compaction;
- ensuring the removal of rainwater due to the slope of the surface.
Manufacturers produce latex and polymer molds for paving slabs; if you have free time, tiles can be made on your own.
Forms for pouring FEM tiles.
Renting a vibrating plate provides additional costs, its device is simple, most home craftsmen can assemble the equipment.
Homemade vibrating plate.
Manual tamper is easier to manufacture, you will need a log and a bar as a handle.
The simplest hand rammer.
Budget options for laying paving slabs
A summer resident can exclude some operations from the technology and replace expensive materials with budget options:
Important! Colored pavers are more expensive, so in full economy mode, you will have to choose unpainted tile options.
Foundation and underlayment
The durability of the tracks directly depends on the quality of the base and the underlying layer. The fertile layer is removed entirely or by 0.4 m at a large depth. The resulting trench is filled with sand (only on dry ground) or crushed stone (with a high groundwater level) with your own hands. The main nuances of the correct arrangement of the underlying layer are:
Important! The technology of excavation of the arable layer can be carried out in a mechanized way. In this case, the bottom of the "trough" must be cleaned with shovels, rolled or rammed to a state similar to that for sand above.
Horizontal level marks should take into account the following factors:
- for paths enough tiles 3 cm thick, car parking 4 - 6 cm;
- the plane of the FEM elements should be 2–4 cm higher than the adjacent lawns, open areas of soil in order to ensure the gravity movement of rainwater;
- paving stones must be laid on a 4 - 7 cm layer of sand;
- the thickness of the arable layer is usually at least 40 cm.
In other words, when choosing 3 cm tiles, taking into account the above, the surface of the underlying layer should be in the "trough" at a depth of 5-7 cm. If paving stones 6 cm thick are used, the compacted crushed stone of the underlying layer should end at around 8 - 11 cm with a minus sign.
Advice! To reduce the consumption of inert material on long paths, large recreation areas and parking lots, ground leveling should be carried out taking into account the design slopes, and not created with sand or gravel later.
Selection of FEM elements
The paving of the country path is made with paving slabs, the price of which depends on several factors:
Therefore, for a budget device for pedestrian zones in the country, do-it-yourself gray vibrocast paving slabs are used, for which the format matters:
Advice! Square tiles allow you to make a path 60 - 100 cm wide from FEM elements of various sizes from 30 x 30 cm to 50 x 50 cm without trimming along the entire length.
Paving in stages
To prevent paving slabs from sliding along the sides of the path, garden borders are used in classical technology. In the budget version, these elements are cast into plank or earthen formwork, they can be made hidden:
- making trenches along the perimeter with a depth of 25 cm;
- preparation of concrete by hand on a sheet or in a trough;
- laying the mixture with your own hands without reinforcement;
- bayoneting with a reinforcing bar until the air is completely removed (the crushed stone is completely recessed, cement milk has appeared on the surface, air bubbles do not come out of the solution).
The height of the hidden borders must be made approximately to the middle of the tile, taking into account the layer of sand on which it is laid (5 - 7 cm). After the concrete has hardened (at least 3 days), you can start paving:
- installation of lighthouse bars along the direction of the path;
- filling sand and leveling the layer along the beacons;
- removing the bars and filling the remaining grooves with sand;
- laying a whole tile in front of you, depositing each element with a rubber mallet as needed;
- cutting pieces and installing them at the place of operation.
Important! To compact the entire surface of the laid coating, only a vibrating plate can be used. Rollers from barrels, rammers do not allow to achieve the desired effect.
At the last stage, the seams of paving slabs should be filled with sand. The ideal option is quartz sand; seeded quarry sand is quite suitable to reduce the cost of finishing. River sand is unsuitable for this, since its particles have a rounded shape and do not have the effect of self-wedging.
Path configuration
If you make the tracks straight, taking into account the size of the tile, then you can reduce the trimming of the FEM elements to a minimum. However, there are economical laying schemes for paving slabs of some configurations, when the entire path is faced with solid paving stones.
At intersections, the choice of scheme depends on the specific size and format of the tiles chosen by the developer. Here, it is more difficult to do without a FEM cut, just as in the junctions to the storm water inlets under the roof drain.
Decoration of the crossroads at the dacha with elements of the Old Town.
The resource of one diamond blade for angle grinders is much higher than the packaging of abrasive equipment for concrete / stone. Therefore, it is cheaper to buy one diamond disc, which, at the end of the work, will remain in the arsenal of the home master.
Thus, there are a lot of ways to budget paving the path in the country with paving slabs. At the same time, labor costs increase slightly, the lining resource practically does not decrease.
Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by e-mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.
If you want to beautifully equip the paths in your summer cottage, you will need to learn everything about paving slabs and methods for preparing the base. A particularly important factor is the creation of the right cake from sand, gravel before laying the tiles on a dry mortar. In itself, the technology of creating a cake of layers of sand and gravel has proven itself quite well, and all thanks to its strength, beauty and durability.
To date, there are dozens or even hundreds of types of tiles, which allows everyone to choose one that will fully meet all preferences. At first glance, laying concrete tiles may seem like a rather complicated process. But don't worry, it's not as difficult as it seems. This work, depending on the volume, can be completed in just a few days. And with small areas, everything is done independently.
Tile selection
Before starting work, special attention should be paid to the type of tile. In general, there are two main categories:
- Vibrocast tiles.
- Stamped.
For the most part, it is best to give preference to the first option, since it is quite economical financially, and in addition, such material has an attractive appearance.
Also, attention should be paid to the thickness of the material. Depending on where the tracks will be laid out, different materials should be used. In particular:
- When laying paths and garden paths, tiles with a thickness of 2 centimeters are suitable.
- When exposed to heavy loads on the coating, for example, cars, it is worth providing thicker tiles. Preferably from 40-45 to 60 millimeters. Note that for an ordinary car, 4 centimeters is enough, but with the possible impact of many tons of vehicles, it is worth protecting yourself from damage by more expensive tiles.
The next factor for selection is the drawing being performed. For the first time, it is worth using a standard tile with bundles. No need to take a diamond, brick or paving stones, because the beginner will not have enough skill level for such work. Therefore, it is necessary to attract specialists
And the last is the color scheme, which has hundreds of shades. You can choose something for yourself. The only difference is the cost.
Before you properly make a cake for laying paving slabs, depending on the base soil and the purpose of the coating, it is important to determine the technology of work.
Preparing the base for laying
And gradually we move on to preparing the base for laying tiles on the mortar. Now, the first thing to do is to examine the slope of the site on which the laying will be carried out. At the same time, we note that without fail, the coating must be provided with a slope of at least a few degrees, in order to avoid stagnant water in the yard.
The classic scheme for laying garden tiles Required tools and materials
Now let's go directly to the necessary "weapons" for the work. So, we need:
- Quite a lot of sand, because it is necessary to make a base out of it. Its quantity will depend directly on the area of \u200b\u200blaying the tiles.
- Of course, the tile itself.
- Additionally, you will need to equip the border.
- Cement for mixing cement mortar.
- For marking, you need a strong thread, as well as metal or wooden pegs.
- You will also need a regular and rubber mallet.
- Wheelbarrow for garbage disposal and transportation of materials.
- Rammer for the foundation device.
- Building level and rule.
- Buckets, shovel and trowel.
- To cut concrete, you need a special or grinder.
- Also two steel pipes.
- Broom.
- And the last ingredient will be knee pads, because you will have to work on your knees.
The use of penoplex in the arrangement of the base of the garden path
Perhaps the best replacement for concrete when arranging a sidewalk path is a foam sheet that makes an additional bridge from soil freezing and serves as an outflow of groundwater. A similar situation can be prevented by using a gravel cake and thermal insulation with extruded polystyrene foam before laying paving slabs. Usually a lot has been written about arranging the blind area around the house using foam and polystyrene sheets, but this technology is suitable for sidewalk paths and is considered the best option. 
The technology of using polystyrene foam in the arrangement of paths is to make the right pie of drainage layers. 
At the first stage, the soil is leveled with a sand cushion and rammed. Further, the installation of plates on the sand is carried out with seams apart. The thickness of the foam under the sidewalk is usually 5-10 cm, depending on the load and soil composition. Then crushed stone is poured onto the insulation, which serves as drainage. The next layer is a layer of geotextile (it is possible to replace the geotextile with a fine fraction of crushed stone). 
When arranging the path, it is important to set the curb stone evenly, observing proportional dimensions. 
For the immobility of the tiles, it is better to use a dry mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1 * 4, this will allow the tiles to be firmly fixed. On this composition, we begin to lay paving slabs, leveling them. Ideally, when providing work, use a vibrating plate.
After that, rub a dry mixture of sand and cement into the cracks of the surface to increase the water resistance of the track and fix the tiles.
Marking for tiles
To create a slope, we take the street level as a basis, this will become the starting point, namely the zero level, which you need to focus on. We mark a straight line in relation to which the slope will be made. We drive in pegs along the edges of this line and pull the thread between them. The thread itself must be strictly horizontal, which is checked by a level (it is best to apply it from below).
The next step, we tie a thread to one of the pegs, and pull it perpendicular to the first mark. At the same time, the second end of the thread should also be fixed to the pegs, in such a way that its level is slightly higher than the first end. Those. the thread will be at a slight slope of a few degrees.
Next, we pull the next one, the tension is parallel to the first thread. It must be strictly horizontal. And the last step is to connect the first and last pegs, thus getting a closed loop in the form of a square or rectangle.
Technology with pouring concrete base
First you need to remove the soil a little. The depth of a small pit will be 20-25 centimeters. After its arrangement, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of debris, then cover it with rubble by 10-15 centimeters, and, depending on the required slope, compact it.
And finally, you can proceed directly to pouring the base, for which a solution of crushed stone, cement and sand will be used in a ratio of 2: 1: 3.
First of all, we build the formwork, the height of which should slightly exceed the concrete layer. In addition, the thickness of the boards must be more than 4 centimeters, otherwise the structure will not withstand the pressure of concrete.
We lay the reinforcing mesh on the crushed stone and start pouring. Initially, a layer of 5 centimeters is poured, after which an additional mesh is laid and the remaining 10 centimeters are poured.
Three days later, after the mortar has dried, the laying of tiles on a concrete base begins.
Laying tiles
The base is ready and the tiling can now be done on the concrete. And then we will consider a step-by-step algorithm for carrying out work on this issue. In total, the process itself will be divided into several parts, including:
- Arrangement of the curb.
- Backfilling the site with a cement-sand mixture.
- Direct laying of tiles on a concrete base.
- Seam filling.
- And the last stage is preparation for operation.
Let's get straight to the point and consider each of the stages in more detail.
Arrangement curb
The first thing to do is to install curbs to fix paving slabs and prevent them from moving.
To install the curb, it is necessary to mark up, the one that was made for pouring concrete is also quite suitable. The threads in this case are located at the height of the future border. It is important not to forget about the slope. 
A trench is dug along the markup, which in its depth fully corresponds to the part of the curb that will be located underground, plus 3 to 5 centimeters are added for the cement pad. For example, if it is planned to make a fence with a height of 15 centimeters, and a material having a height of 25 centimeters is used at the base, then the approximate depth of the trench will be 13-15 cm.
The width should correspond to the dimensions of the stone, taking into account a gap of 1 cm on each side. Accordingly, with a stone width of 8 centimeters, the trench should be 10 cm in size.
Now we knead the cement mortar and lay it out with a layer of 3-5 cm on the bottom of the trench, after which the curb itself is laid.
It is important that the stones must be driven into the layer of cement mortar, for which a rubber mallet is used.
A day later, the distance between the walls and the boundary of the trench is filled with sand. In this case, it is necessary to moisten it and compact it.
Backfilling of the cement mixture
The next step is to backfill the mixture, for which it is necessary to divide the marked area into separate lines (bands). Their width should correspond to the length of the chosen rule (in particular, 20-30 centimeters narrower than it itself).
Further, we retreat from the zero mark the selected distance, while hammering a peg. We do the same on the other side. These pegs must be connected to each other. The height of the thread must be aligned in accordance with the sides parallel to which it is stretched. Thus, the division of the entire section is performed.
Now you need to fill the base. As you know, paving slabs are usually laid on concrete using a dry cement-sand mixture. This composition contains one part of cement and six sand, without the addition of water.
Backfilling is carried out throughout the site with a layer of 6-7 centimeters. In this case, leveling and tamping become an obligatory factor.
And the final stage of preparing the base is its alignment in accordance with the markup. Thus, in places where the distance from the thread to the carving is too large, it is necessary to add mixtures. In the same areas where the thread is too low, it should be removed a little. Note that the gap should be approximately 1.5-2 the thickness of the selected tile.
Pavement Options And a particularly important factor is the ramming of the carving in those places where it is poured. For this, a special device is used - a rammer. An example can be seen in the photo below.
In some cases, clean sand is used instead of this kind of mixture, but it is less effective because it fixes the tile much worse. In contrast to the cement base, which, when absorbing moisture, adheres quite well to both the concrete surface and the tile. Accordingly, the use of clean sand makes it much easier to replace broken tiles or repair the surface.
In the case when it comes to laying heavy equipment in a place of accumulation, even the decision to use a carving does not help, but in this case, special glue for paving slabs comes to the rescue.
Using this kind of solution allows you to maximize the durability of the tile, but the pitfall is that this kind of coating cannot be repaired. Thus, even if several tiles are broken, they will have to be removed with a puncher; accordingly, they cannot be re-layed.
Laying garden tiles
In the next step, we will analyze how to lay tiles on a concrete base. And everything is done quite simply. The tile lies on the underlying layer and is rammed into it with a rubber mallet. Accordingly, it is necessary at the same time to fully control its horizontality and correct position, which is done with the help of a bypass, a level and a stretched thread.
The technology of laying concrete tiles implies a gradual advancement and directly laying itself away from you. Thus, you will be moving on a freshly laid surface. In the case when there are obstacles on the way that cannot be eliminated, go around them with whole tiles.
Paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house or in the country house perform two functions - aesthetic and utilitarian. The key to high-quality implementation of both is the correct laying of paving slabs.
Many trust this to professionals, hoping that they know their business. Is that so? Will the hired worker always perform the installation better than the owner himself?
The main thing is to know how to lay paving slabs with your own hands.
A step-by-step instruction will be a good help, in which, in addition to the order of work, all the nuances of this rather simple and fascinating process will be revealed. Where the result is shown with the first laid tile.
Preparation for laying paving slabs
Planning is a guarantee that a homemade track will not let you down for a long time.
- Plot layout. Few people dare to lay out the entire space on the site with tiles, just as it is difficult to do without paths, at least from the gate to the cottage and outbuildings. The ideal option is to think over the paths to the house and from it to the main buildings on the site. So the lawn is preserved, and in the rain it is not necessary to knead the dirt. In addition, you do not have to uproot trees and other perennial plantings.
- Material selection. Paving slabs are gradually gaining ground from other types of paving. The main advantages: ease of operation, the ability to dismantle the coating, does not “float” like asphalt from heating, does not burst from the cold (frost-resistant), and is not demanding in care. The path, lined with paving slabs, allows moisture to pass through, thereby not harming the soil and soil (environmentally friendly).
- Tile. When choosing a tile, you need to know that, according to the manufacturing method, it can be vibro-cast (it is possible to manufacture it yourself) and vibro-pressed (made in industrial conditions). Varies in color, thickness and shape. Requires a device with a different composition of the base. All these factors determine the technology of laying paving slabs.
Tiled paths and grounds - parameters
Comparative analysis of tiled pavement is provided in the table
The type of soil also affects the choice of base for paving slabs. Moving soil requires a concrete base even for a footpath, and dense soil allows you to get by with a sand-cement cushion and under a car.
Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step by step instructions
General tips and rules on how to lay paving slabs correctly:
- provide drains for water drainage. If paving slabs are laid on sand, then water will go into the gaps between the tiles, and if on a concrete base, then a transverse, longitudinal or transverse-longitudinal slope is required. Thus, water, rain or melt, will not collect between concrete and tiles. Therefore, the possibility of swelling of the track sections is excluded. The optimal slope of paving slabs is 1 cm per 1 meter. Please note: the gap for water drainage must be placed between the curb and the tile sheet;
- correlate the size of the tile with the dimensions allotted for the track. The wider the track, the larger the tiled elements should be (subjective opinion), or vice versa, from small tiles. It would seem that large tiles will make the layout faster and easier, but in fact, it may turn out differently. The large dimensions of the tile are directly reflected in the mass, the weight of paving slabs 40x40 cm is 15-16 kg (depending on thickness). As a result, such plates are difficult to lift, move, level. While adjusting the height, you will have to lift the weight several times to add sand;
- lay (bring) communications before laying paving slabs. Otherwise, it will need to be dismantled and reassembled. If there is no need for communications yet, then conditions can be created for their installation later. To do this, it is recommended to lay plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 mm under the track in the most likely places for the passage of future communications;
- installation of paving slabs is not carried out during rain or immediately after precipitation. The soil and the laid pillow should dry out. The optimum moisture content of the base is a guarantee that the tile will not spread over time;
- the base for laying paving slabs must be perfectly flat. The sand used for backfilling should not contain clay or other impurities;
- choose the optimal track size. It is reasonable to select the width of the track, based on the size of the paving slab, plus a value equal to the sum of the gaps between it. Thus, it will be possible to avoid time-consuming and not always beautiful trimming of tiles. The same applies to patterned layout. However, this approach is only possible when laying tiles with the correct geometry. The use of imitation of natural stone, a circular pattern, complex geometry does not always make it possible to do without cutting. In this case, you need to consider the exact location of individual whole and trimmed elements.
Stage 1 - Layout of paving slabs - schemes, patterns, drawings
To create a beautiful tile path, you need to make the right sketch. A drawing or scheme for laying paving slabs will help not only visualize the project, but also calculate the required amount of material.
The choice of laying scheme is influenced by the shape (geometry) of the tiles (see photo) and the planned layout design.
Significant opportunities for maneuver are created by the use of paving slabs of a rectangular shape, with standard dimensions of 100x200 mm, such as "paving stone" or "brick". They provide the most styling options.
Traditional options for laying paving slabs:
1. Geometric styling. It can be represented by colored canvases or illusions.
Playing with colors and laying tiles, you can create a unique design of garden paths. Examples in the photo (rhombus, square, circle, new and old city, parquet, checkerboard, fan, coil, butterfly, wedge sheet, hexagon or honeycomb).
2. Illusions 3D - paving slabs with 3D effect. Laying tiles with a pattern that creates a three-dimensional stereoscopic (three-dimensional) image is a tricky technology of optical illusion.
An example of which is provided below, has no scheme in the classical sense. It involves laying out tiles in an artistic mess. If the tiles are monochromatic, then the size of the tiles varies when laying out, if multi-colored - the colors.
4. Artistic layout of paving slabs, the photo of which is provided below, gives an idea of the variety of different styling options. The complexity of the drawing is determined by the skill or perseverance of the master.
Stage 2 - Preparation of material and tools for laying paving slabs
For work you will need: sand, cement, tile, curb. Of the tool is useful: nylon thread, pegs, rubber mallet, long rule, level, rammer, trowel, broom. In case of trimming, you need a grinder with a disc for cutting concrete. Knee pads are a handy thing, because work takes a lot of time with an emphasis on these parts of the body.
Stage 3 - Marking for laying paving slabs
The marking of the site is to determine the contour of the future track. The place along the entire perimeter is indicated by pegs, between which a nylon thread is stretched. Due to the fact that it serves as a guide for laying out tiles, it must be pulled strictly according to the level.
Stage 4 - preparation of the base for paving slabs
To build the base, you need to remove the top layer of turf, level the bed, pour it with water and compact it with a tamper. Dense soil does not need such work. There are stones, roots of trees and shrubs in the soil - all this should be removed.
Note. You can leave the soil, but then the path will be much higher than the rest of the cover on the site, which can lead to it being washed away by melt or rain water.
The resulting bed is covered with a drainage bearing layer, for example, crushed stone or gravel 150-200 mm high. For a car track (platform), the layer thickness increases to 400 mm. Many lay geotextiles under gravel and on it to eliminate the possibility of erosion of the pillow by groundwater. 20 mm is poured on top of the crushed stone. sand to level the base.
Stage 5 - Technology of laying paving slabs
Step-by-step instruction
1. Installing a curb for paving slabs or a curb
The purpose of the curb stone is to mark the path and protect the tile from spreading. But there are examples of laying paving slabs without a border.
Installation of a border is made on the leveled basis. For greater reliability, it is laid on a concrete base (concrete castle).
You can install a plastic border for tiles
The border can be installed flush with the tile or protrude by a few cm. It is recommended to lay the tile just above the curb (border) by 5 mm, this is a shrinkage gap.
There are three types of foundation:
Laying paving slabs on the sand.
In this case, the distance between the curbs (or stretched thread in their absence) is filled with sand. The height of the sand layer is 50-60 mm. Before work, the sand is poured with water using a sprayer and left to dry a little. Then it is leveled and rammed. The display is made on wet, but not wet sand.
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On the base prepared at the fifth stage, the second layer of sand (30-40 mm) is laid, on which the reinforcing mesh is laid. From above, the mesh is covered with a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 4.
Laying paving slabs on a concrete base.
The composition of the "pie" is shown in the diagram.
Note. Laying tiles on concrete is not the best option. This is due to the fact that the concrete base does not allow moisture to pass through. Water lingers between concrete and tile and, at sub-zero temperatures, leads to deformation of the track.
3. Laying tiles
Simple rules for high-quality and efficient work.
How to properly lay paving slabs:
- the tile is laid out from the bottom point upwards;
- masonry is carried out by the method from oneself. That is, when performing work, the master moves along the already laid path so as not to damage the compacted and leveled base;
- installation of tiles in a circular way starts from the center of the pattern.
- the beginning of the montage falls on the optically visible boundary, i.e. to the place where the eye first falls: the front door, porch, veranda, gazebo, etc.
- tiles are laid out not in even rows, but diagonally. This makes it easier to align horizontally.
Starting laying, the first step is to stretch the cord along the width of the track, and the first row of tiles is leveled along it. The horizontal should be checked with a level every 2-3 rows.
"Landing" paving slabs The tile is placed in the place intended for it and is installed accurately by lightly tapping it with a rubber mallet. If the tile falls under it, sand or a mixture is poured.
The gap between paving slabs is usually 2-3 mm (enough for water to escape). The exact gaps are maintained with the help of crosses (but, this is a theory, it does not occur in practice).
Some manufacturers have provided for the presence of limiters (remote locks) on the tiles, which allow laying without the use of additional devices at the same distance from each other.
The material was prepared for the site www.site
A new technology has appeared - paving slabs that glow in the dark. Installing such a tile will allow you to mark the boundaries and secure movement along the path in the dark. Luminous paint is applied over the tiles and is absolutely safe for users and the soil.
Another option for decorative lighting of the path is LED paving slabs. In this case, during the laying process, blocks-bricks are mounted - LED lamps powered by electricity or solar panels.
Stage 6 - Grouting paving slabs
In addition to understanding how to lay paving slabs, you need to know how to seal the seams. Filling the joints between paving slabs is carried out in two approaches. To begin with, a thin layer of clean, sifted, dry sand is poured onto the laid tile. Using a broom or brush, the backfill is scattered between the seams. Then a layer of sand is poured onto the track (if the base is sandy) or a sand-cement mixture in a ratio of 1: 1 (for a cement-sand or concrete base) and the seams are also filled with a broom (spill).
You can purchase a ready-made dry mix for filling the joints of paving slabs: M150 (120 rubles / 25 kg) and Quick-mix PFN (1650 rubles / 25 kg).
At the end of the work, the path is watered with water using a sprayer. Watering is carried out until puddles form on the path.
Important. The distance between the curb and the tile is not concreted, and is also covered with a dry mix.
Note. Professionals advise vibrocompaction of seams with a special board, but users say that this is unnecessary in private construction.
Care of paving slabs
It is not enough to know how to lay paving slabs, you also need to provide her with constant care so that she lasts the billing period. A simple maintenance is to periodically sweep and wash the paving slab path (so that the colored tiles remain as beautiful). In winter, metal shovels should not be used for snow removal, but crowbars, ice axes should be used for icing, and the track should also be sprinkled with anti-ice compounds containing salt.
Water repellent for paving slabs
The porous structure of concrete acts like a sponge - it absorbs water. Hygroscopicity plays its detrimental role in winter, when water penetrates into the pores of concrete, freezes, expands and destroys the structure of the concrete base. As a result, the appearance of microcracks, dents, shells, discoloration.
To prevent this, protective impregnations are used - water repellents for paving slabs.
Water-repellent compositions (materials, additives, liquids) do not protect the tiles from fading in the sun and abrasion, but only impregnate the surface of the concrete and thereby prevent “soaking” with water (they provide a water-repellent property).
In the design of access roads, the organization of sidewalks and the ennoblement of the courtyard, there is probably no better material than paving slabs. The strength, durability and stylish appearance of this material makes it the most popular coating for decorating a suburban area.
Do-it-yourself technology for laying paving slabs. A photo
The tile is produced in a wide variety of types of any size and design, so it will not be difficult to arrange the tracks in the desired style. Despite the apparent complexity, the process of laying paving slabs is a fairly simple job, so you can pave garden paths over the weekend. Of course, it will take more time to ennoble a large yard, but with an assistant, such an event can be completed in a couple of weeks.
Don't rush to get to work. First, understand the main types of paving slabs, choose the material that is best suited for doing the work yourself and will be in harmony with the design of other objects on your site. Note that now on the building materials market you can find stamped and vibrocast samples. Despite the higher price of the latter, they will add beauty and fundamentality to your sidewalks, as well as please with their durability.
When choosing a material, you will also face the issue of thickness, which varies from 20 to 60 cm for different types of finishes. freight transport should be equipped with a material of maximum thickness.
Do not chase patterns of tiles such as "paving stones", "rhombus" or "brick". Remember that strict geometry will not forgive the flaws inherent in beginners. The color of the product can be any, but practice shows that concrete without dyes better tolerates the harmful effects of low temperatures. In addition, the cost of colored tiles is slightly higher.
What materials and tools are needed for laying tiles
The consumption and amount of materials needed to improve the yard depends on the sheltered area and landscape features. You will have to prepare:
Paving slabs. The more accurately the calculation is made, taking into account trimming, the less waste will remain, which will save a little.
Getting started with tiling
The first thing to do - analyze the landscape and determine in which direction the slope of the site will be made. A slight slope should always be present, otherwise puddles after rain and snow melt cannot be avoided. It is best to make a slope towards the street, taking its level as a reference line. Laying tiles step by step will help you avoid mistakes and speed up your work.
Along the zero line, towards which the slope will be made, it is necessary to hammer in two pegs and pull the cord, checking its horizontal position with the help of a level.
From each peg to the starting point of the sidewalk, extend another cord, driving in a couple of additional supports. At the same time, check that they are slightly above the zero point. This will provide the necessary bias. By the way, just a couple of degrees is enough so that the water does not stagnate in the area.
Pull the cord between the starting pegs, parallel to the zero line. Remember the need for accurate measurements and horizontality, which must be constantly monitored by the building level. If you did everything correctly, then the plane of your future paving slab track with a slope in the right direction will be indicated with threads.
If the width of the area to be built is wider than the rule used, then the surface must be divided into strips. Their width is made 10-20 cm less than the length of the tool used. Marking is carried out by driving in additional pegs along the starting and zero lines, pulling the cords parallel to the boundary markings. At the same time, strictly observe the levels on both sides.
Align the paving slab path so that it is parallel to the imaginary plane that the cord system forms. To do this, remove the soil in places that are close to the threads and add a level to the depressions. As for the distance from the ground to the cords, it is taken equal to twice the thickness of the tile. It should be said that this work is rough, not requiring high accuracy.
Tamp the soil along the marked area. Particular attention should be paid to sprinkled areas with a loose structure. The rammer used must be solid. For example, an excellent tool is obtained from the support paw of an excavator, to which a handle is welded.
Critically assess the degree of preparation of the territory and proceed to the preparation of the sand-cement mixture. To do this, mix 6 parts of sand with 1 part of cement. I must say that this does not require special accuracy and accuracy, so the components can be measured "by eye", and the composition itself can be prepared directly on the ground. Work is best done in the off-season, since high humidity is required from the sand.
Distribute the prepared composition evenly on one strip and tamp. In this case, the height of the sand-cement layer should be approximately equal to the thickness of the paving slabs.
Under the side cords that mark the edges of the strip, lay the metal pipes, providing a gap to the tensioned threads, about a centimeter less than the thickness of the tile coating. Observe the parallelism and slopes of cords and pipes.
For the next step, you will need knee pads, and since you will have to literally crawl on the ground, change into shoes and pants that are not a pity. Kneeling, pass the rule under the cords and set its edges on the steel pipes. Now to level the site, it is enough to run the tool along the steel guides. Add the prepared mixture to the depressions and tamp it down, then draw the rule again. Thus, you will get a perfectly flat strip.
Discard convex, propeller-curved and concave tiles - they can be used when trimming. Distribute even copies, if necessary, by type and color and lay them out next to the prepared place.
Laying of paving slabs begins with the extreme element, carefully aligning its edges with the cords. After that, tap the surface of the tile with a rubber mallet, sinking it flush with the markings. You may need to add or remove some of the mixture with a trowel or trowel.
Lay the next instances in the same way, alternating the elements if necessary to match the color or shape. Laying lead "from yourself". This will allow you to move forward without destroying the prepared layer of sand-cement mixture.
After finishing one strip, proceed to the preparation and installation of the next. Obstacles that may be on your way, it is better to bypass whole tiles. The remaining gaps will require trimming and fitting in place. This work is best left for later.
Cracks that cannot be avoided when laying tiles are filled with the same mixture of sand and cement that is used to prepare the base. Make it a rule at the end of the working day to evenly cover the surface of the laid area with a loose composition, and then sweep it a couple of times with a broom, stuffing the gaps with the mixture. The process of eliminating cracks is called sweeping. If colored tiles are used, then an unaesthetic cement coating can sometimes remain on it. This feature does not indicate a low-quality coating and is due to the use of dyes and the specifics of production. In this case, it is better to refuse cement, sweeping the gaps with clean sand.
Even if your site has a perfectly rectangular shape, and you calculated the width of the strips in strict accordance with the dimensions of the paving slabs, you can’t do without trimming with your own hands. To do this, in each case, determine the desired configuration of the fragment and cut it off using an angle grinder and a diamond disc for concrete work.
If your plans include the arrangement of flower beds, then their boundaries must be marked with a cord and a beat. At the same time, the protruding parts of the tiles are cut off with a grinder.
Tiled walkway edges, flower beds and lawns will never look complete without edging. To install restrictive elements, dig a trench along the entire junction line. Its depth is chosen individually, based on the size of the curb stone and its height above the level of the site.
Stretch the cord for the edge, keeping the same distance to the tile throughout the entire area. Thus, the necessary slope necessary for the aesthetic perception of the picture will be observed.
Using a rubber mallet and removing or adding soil, install the curb sections along the cord. To prevent them from moving, fix the fringing elements with a thick sand-cement mortar.
Cut tiles are installed in empty cells near the curb and unfilled places near obstacles. In this case, the decision on the degree of trimming is made in each individual case. Since the soil may have crumbled when digging a trench to border the area, restore the base using a tamper.
In those places where the tile borders the gate, use not a loose cement-sand mixture, but a mortar. This will avoid shifting the extreme rows of tiles in especially loaded places.
Our instructions should be taken as the most complete and thorough way of laying paving slabs, which is used when arranging a yard or other large areas. If you need to improve sidewalks and garden paths, then preparation and some aspects of laying tiles can be simplified.
Schemes for laying paving slabs
A wide range of colors, a variety of shapes and design solutions make tiles an excellent tool for arranging a yard area. Ample opportunities in terms of design and affordable cost are complemented by practicality and reliability, which allows this material to occupy a leading position among finishing coatings for many years.
The variety of modern paving slabs makes it possible to create various color and geometric patterns with your own hands, which significantly increases the aesthetic value and helps to adhere to the chosen style in the design of a suburban area.
You can create an interesting pattern by applying several types of paving slabs, laying it in a certain way. You can come up with a drawing yourself or use the options below:
- the first pattern is characterized by laying paving slabs in a row with alternating colors, placing one color along the borders of the path, and distributing others between them;
- in the second case, the alternation of two colors of different thicknesses is performed in the form of a stretched letter M;
- a complex geometric pattern in the form of a labyrinth or an alternating twisted spiral looks very impressive, made in a color different from the base;
- a pattern of repeating squares, rhombuses or rectangles will help to design your yard in a simple style, however, precise geometric shapes will not tolerate bumps and will require you to be especially careful when laying;
- diagonal or checkerboard two-color laying of paving slabs exists in huge variations with different line thicknesses, sizes and shapes of staggered parts.
The proposed pictures have quite simple, but spectacular patterns, available for repetition by beginners. Using rectangular or figured tiles, you can emphasize certain advantages of your yard.
This article discusses the principles of installation of curly paving elements (FEM), which will avoid errors and cost overruns.
The industry produces FEMs of different sizes, shapes, colors, produced using different technologies. Before laying the tiles, it is necessary to select and buy them in sufficient quantities, taking into account the cutting waste.
Manufacturing methods
Figured paving elements are made in several ways:
Color, shape and size
When buying a FEM, you should take into account some of the nuances of laying and operating paving zones:
Preparatory work
Before laying tiles in a parking lot or walkway, it is necessary to replace the arable layer with non-metallic material, provide slopes for gravity removal of drains, lay stormwater trays and storm water inlets, and mount curbs.
FEM is laid on granotsev, gartsovka or sand, adhesion with the base is completely absent. Therefore, before starting work, a rigid spatial box should be made from curbs or storm trays so that the tiles do not slide around the perimeter.
Breakdown of paving zones
The main tasks at this stage of landscaping are:
Important! The breakdown is made with cords / strings on pegs or cast-offs. For gravity removal of drains, a slope of 2 - 4 degrees on paths and recreation areas, 4 - 7 degrees on the blind areas is sufficient.
After marking with cords, the fertile soil layer is completely removed from the surface of the paving zones. After the organics inside it rot, the soil will inevitably sag, the FEM plane will be broken, and the coating will have to be repaired. When making a pit, you should consider:
Thus, for storm water and curbs along the perimeter of the parking lot or path, you will have to further deepen the trench by 10 - 15 cm.
Underlayment
For building underground structures, non-metallic materials are traditionally used as the underlying layer:
Soils are partially replaced by non-metallic materials, therefore, during the operation of paving zones, mutual mixing of sand / crushed stone with the adjacent soil occurs. There is a loss of bearing capacity, repair is required. To eliminate this process, geotextiles or dornite are laid under the underlying layer - an overlap of 10 cm, with a call to the vertical walls of the pit.
Important! Every 10 - 15 cm layer of sand in the underlying layer must be moistened before laying and compacted with a vibrating plate. Crushed stone does not need to be wetted, tamping is required.
Paving technology
The main nuances when laying paving slabs with your own hands on the site are:
- installation of a spatial box - stormwater trays and curbs around the perimeter;
- contact layer - washed sand, granotsev or gartsovka (a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 6);
- leveling by beacons - backfilling the contact layer between the beacons and pulling with a rule;
- laying tiles - in front of you in the direction of travel;
- sealing and decorating joints - tamping with an areal vibrator and backfilling between sand tiles.
The main difficulties arise with layout schemes, facing steps and stairs, and trimming tiles.
Curbs and storm drain
Without rigid vertical elements along the perimeter of the paving area, paving slabs will inevitably begin to creep and lose their shape. Therefore, trays and curbs are deepened and mounted on the solution:
- laying the bed - the solution is leveled with a trowel;
- installation of a curb - the upper edge along a stretched cord;
- fixing the vertical level - a solution is applied to the side faces of the curb on both sides.
On straight sections, the curb is mounted close to each other; on turns, the concrete elements touch at one corner.
At the same stage, storm water inlets and storm trays are mounted:
- the storm water inlet receives water from the riser of the roof drain, therefore it is mounted directly below it;
- trays completely replace curbs, so there is no need to duplicate them;
- there are trays with decorative lattices on which you can walk.
Storm drain inside the paving area.
Advice! It is forbidden to drain storm drains into the septic tank of the water treatment system of a country house in order to avoid overflowing it. Water is collected in a separate underground reservoir, then pumped out for reuse, such as irrigation.
Stairs and steps
FEM elements complete with curbs make it possible to manufacture stairs and individual steps on difficult terrain and when terracing a site:
Advice! Similar to sidewalks, it is better to adjust the width of the steps to the size of the tiles in order to avoid undercutting.
Solid tile and undercut
To lay paving stones on your own without errors, you must perform a sequence of operations:
- distribute the material of the contact layer over the base at a horizontal level, taking into account the thickness of the tile;
- lay solid paving stones close to each other, according to the layout scheme;
- cut the tiles to the size of the remaining unfilled areas at the junction with curbs, trays, storm water inlets, walls, wells;
- lay the pieces and fill the seams with sand.
The mixture of the contact layer is distributed over the beacons in two ways:
The second method is also used in the manufacture of dry screeds, the manufacturer produces kits that include a special rule and beacon rails. These kits are ideal for paving with FEM elements and do not significantly increase the cost per square meter of coverage.
Paving stones are laid from an arbitrary edge (usually from the bottom point) in front of you. The surface can be walked on immediately, which is very convenient for increasing productivity and reducing labor costs. Exist :
At intersections, any junction options are allowed with trimming and using FEM of a suitable format from other collections.
Seam backfilling and tamping
At the final stage of paving paving slabs, the following rules must be observed:
When laying on a carving or buying FEM, inside of which the hydration process has not been completed, it may be necessary to remove cement, white and other colored spots. It is better to do it right away, treat the surface of the paving zone with special compounds that increase the water, wear and frost resistance of the coating.
Thus, at each stage of paving paths and parking lots with paving slabs, several factors must be taken into account at once. However, the technology is available for independent implementation, but only if there is a vibrating plate that can be rented.
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