Interpanel seams: sealing and insulation. Technology and process of sealing interpanel seams. How to fill the seams between decorative stone Filling the seams

The foundation is the supporting structure of the entire building, therefore, the life of this building depends on its quality performance. Expansion joints play an important role in the construction of any foundation structure.

An expansion joint is a specially arranged area that performs a protective function and allows the foundation to withstand temperature and soil fluctuations. The expansion joint in foundations has received the greatest distribution in areas where seismic activity is increased. Most often protect the tape type of base.

All expansion joints used in the modern construction industry are divided into the following types:

1. Sedimentary;
2. Temperature;
3. shrinkable;
4. Seismic.

The choice of the desired type of seam depends on the type of soil and the temperature parameters of the region.

Proper arrangement of expansion joints

The calculation of the exact number of joints required should be carried out by an experienced surveyor. In order to correctly arrange a seam that protects the foundation from deformation, it is necessary to adhere to certain rules:

• The height of the expansion joint for the foundation must be equal to the height of the base itself;
• The step between the seams is determined on the basis of calculations. The average figures are as follows: if the house has wooden walls, the step will be 0.6 m; brick walls - 0.15 m;
• The structure of the future building also plays an important role. If the house is with an extension, then expansion joints are also required along the corner borders;
• The width of each seam is on average 10 to 12 cm;
• The choice of a heat and waterproof insulator for each type of base will be different: it is better to protect the slab foundation with tarred tow, and the tape foundation - with a separate heat-insulating and waterproofing layer;
• During the construction of the blind area, one or more wooden slats are used, which are poured with bitumen;
• A seam between the blind area and the foundation structure is not required if the base is already isolated from moisture and cold.

The tips listed above are universal and apply to all types of expansion joints. Following these tips will allow you to build a strong and reliable foundation that will last for decades.

The device of the seam that protects the foundation from deformation

The difference between expansion joints from each other predetermines the scope of their application. For example, the device of a seismic seam on foundations is justified in areas of increased seismic activity. It takes on the load during ground vibrations and protects the building from deformation. If it is required to make a seam between the main building and the extension, the foundations of these structures must be separated by a layer of penplex, styroform or armoflex 2 cm thick. This measure will smooth out possible fluctuations.

The zones for the installation of expansion joints on foundations are regions where the air temperature during the year has a large range. To smooth out soil movements due to temperature changes, the foundation area under the house is divided by wooden slats into separate sectors (maps). Such seams are more popular when protecting unheated premises.

Shrinkage expansion joints are mounted between the layer of foundation blocks and the concrete poured from above. The reason for such operations is to take into account the ability of concrete to decrease in size when water evaporates.

The construction of a sedimentary protective seam is shown during the construction of the foundation under a multi-storey building. This allows you to evenly distribute the total load and prevent all kinds of damage.

Installation of joints against deformation of buildings is carried out using various profiles. In other words, modern builders select the best version of the profile and make it a deformation seam for the foundation.

Important: all expansion joints arranged at the base of the building must be clearly stated in the project documentation.

The purpose of installing foundation joints is to protect the structure from deformation and ensure its stability.

How to fill expansion joints

If the seam at the base of the structure is not properly arranged, it may collapse. It is very important to use only high-quality sealants, the elasticity index of which is suitable for sealing such joints. The material for the manufacture of such sealants are polymers (butyl rubber, silicone, polyurethane, etc.).

The most popular when working on expansion joints is polyurethane sealant, which provides greater endurance and long service life of insulated structures. The cost of this material is different from other offers, but it's worth it.

Preparation for sealing is aimed at cleaning the seam from dust and dirt. So the treated seam will receive a high-quality and durable coating. Sealants based on polyurethanes, in addition to high elasticity, have a high level of adhesion to the surface, heat-resistant and withstand temperature fluctuations from -100°C to +100°C.

How to isolate the seams

The entire structure of the house under construction in the drawings is divided into separate sections - nodes for expansion joints. A mandatory point for the installation of such seams is their waterproofing, especially if there is a basement or basement floor.

When choosing a waterproofing material, the determining factors are the size of the seam, the likelihood of deformation, pressure and maximum load, the nature of the impact on the seam. The key point is the water pressure value.

When designing a waterproofing expansion joint, the most effective technology is an artificially formed loop, which subsequently collects moisture. In addition, the device of moisture-absorbing pads in the very thickness of concrete is shown. After protecting the seams from moisture, it is necessary to carefully check all joints for leaks.

Expansion foundation joints arranged in accordance with all the rules ensure the reliability of the foundation of the building for many years. This is especially true on shaky, unstable soils. At the stage of designing houses and industrial facilities in seismically active regions, the installation of expansion joints is one of the mandatory items of design estimates. The laying, sealing and waterproofing of these joints also affect the overall strength of the foundation.

Construction of expansion joints in foundations updated: February 26, 2018 by: zoomfund

The modern market of building and finishing materials pleases with a variety of choices, however, the undoubted leaders in this area have been determined for a long time. Ceramic tiles are one of the best time-tested facing materials. The tiled surface is practical and lasts a long time, and the presence of an unlimited color palette of material allows you to realize the most sophisticated design projects. In addition, the popularity of tiles is also explained by the fact that, in principle, you can tile the walls yourself, and the necessary recommendations can be easily found on the global network. For example, we want to offer you the most useful information on how to grout tile joints.

Grout for tile joints - the offer of the modern market

After laying ceramic tiles, the final touch is grouting; without this procedure, finishing the walls and floors with tiles cannot be considered complete. In addition to practical significance, the seam also has a decorative feature - it complements the overall pattern on the wall or floor. Moreover, manufacturers produce many color additives.

Two types of grouts: based on cement or epoxy resin

Cement based grout Supplied as a dry mix, which is brought to working condition by dilution with water or liquid latex. Although ready-made grouts can also be found in the retail network, their price is an order of magnitude higher. Cement grout for tile joints in the vast majority of cases is made on the basis of Portland cement, and the special additives that make up the composition are the distinguishing components. All grouts of this type are divided into three groups:

• based on industrial Portland cement;
• based on dry hardener;
• based on a mixture of latex with Portland cement.

Interesting! Portland cement is a special type of cement that got its name because it was very similar in color to building stone, which was mined on the English island of Portland.

Epoxy grout includes epoxy resin and hardener, and gives the seams increased impact resistance and resistance to various chemical influences. Such a grout is characterized by a high cost and, as a rule, is used in the arrangement of premises for industrial or commercial purposes.

In addition, epoxy grout is characterized by excessive viscosity, so only a specialist can successfully work with it. Moreover, there are certain restrictions on its use: the thickness of the tile is from 12 mm, and the minimum joint width is 6 mm. Otherwise, such grout will simply not be able to properly penetrate into narrower seams.

Attention! To avoid serious problems when doing the work yourself, carefully read the manufacturer's instructions. This is the only way you can determine which tile grout is best for your particular situation.

Is it necessary to use sealant?

Grouting tile joints - a video instruction of the process, by the way, is located at the end of this article, it also involves processing joints using a sealant. It will protect the surface of the tile from excessive absorption of moisture, as well as protect it and the seams from stains. If the surface is finished with unglazed tiles, then it is completely covered with liquid sealant. Such a specific substance has acrylic, varnish or silicone in its composition. Therefore, it is necessary to choose it based on the type of tile and grout.

Between tiles distance

By and large, the width of the grout joint depends solely on personal preferences. Many people prefer narrow seams, which visually seem to suppress the tile. If the surface is made of elements with a size of 10-30 cm, then the most optimal will be a seam of the order of 3 mm. Sometimes tiles of 60 cm in size are also laid according to this scheme. If the tiles are irregular in shape, it is advisable to make a wider seam, but it should not be more than 12 mm.

Attention! The wider the seam, the more likely it is to crack. To seal it, it is necessary to apply a grout with the addition of sand, but this may not always ensure a seam from deformation.

On the other hand, you should not make the grout too narrow, as this will greatly complicate the grouting process, and as a result, they may turn out to be leaky, that is, water will seep under the tile. According to professional tilers, the joints should be wide enough so that they can be filled without problems with any of the selected grouts.

Only in this case, they will become waterproof and will act as a kind of shock absorbers in the process of compression or expansion of the tile. If the seam has a negligibly small width, then it will not have such parameters.

Tools and auxiliary materials

• Respirator (working with cement-based grout).
• Protective glasses.
• Rubber gloves.
• Roller, rubber spatula or scraper with a rubber nozzle.
• Bucket.
• Sponge.
• Plywood.
• Jointing, a wooden stick sharpened at one end or a toothbrush.
• A piece of clean cloth.
• A small paint brush or paint roller.

Brief plan

1. The grout is mixed.
2. The solution is aged to the required level of water absorption.
3. The grout is mixed very thoroughly again.
4. The solution is distributed.
5. Excess is cleared.

Solution preparation

As a rule, dry grout is mixed with either water or latex liquid additives that replace water.

Note! Dry polymer grouts can only be mixed with water.

When using any type of liquid, it is necessary to add only such an amount that will be sufficient to prepare a plastic and easily spread mixture. This aspect is extremely important, since excess moisture can provoke a weakening of the grout. To do everything right, the solution must be mixed strictly according to the proportions indicated on the grout packaging. The container in which the solution will be mixed must be dry and clean.

When mixing the grout, the dry ingredient is added to the liquid. Moreover, initially about ¾ of the norm of the liquid indicated in the recipe is used. After all dry components are introduced into the solution in small portions, the remaining liquid is added, while not forgetting to control the consistency of the mixture.

Important! The grout preparation process can be influenced by such external factors as the temperature regime in the room, relative humidity, and also the component composition, for example, the presence of a dye.

It is recommended to use a trowel or an electric stirrer to mix the solution. If preference is given to the "automation" of this process, then the agitator during operation must be completely immersed in the solution, so air will not enter it. After all, air bubbles can also weaken the grout solution. It is for this reason that the speed of the blade revolutions should not exceed 300 rpm. At the end of the mixing procedure, the solution must be left alone for 8-10 minutes, and then it can already be safely used for its intended purpose.

Grouting ceramic tiles - direct execution

Grouting ceramic tiles begins with laying the mortar on the surface of the tiles. For proper distribution, it is best to use a special trowel. It is held at an angle of 30 0 relative to the surface of the tile and is applied diagonally. It is necessary to go over the treated area with a grater 2-3 times, and not just covering the distance between the tiles, but trying to rub the solution into the seam with an effort to completely fill it. Naturally, the greater the resistance, the greater the filling density of the seam, and, accordingly, the stronger it will be. The main idea of ​​this work is that all the voids and corners around the tiles left after laying them should be filled as much as possible. When applying the grout, the liquid will leave it, and the seam will be filled with particles of cement and sand. Thus, after hardening in the seam, a solid body will be obtained.

It is not necessary to grout the entire surface at the same time. The best option would be to distribute the solution in a small area, about 1-2 m. In the process, it will be found out how quickly the grout sets and whether there is a need for frequent stops associated with cleaning the surface. In some cases, it is possible to wipe 9-10 square meters. m, and then deal with the cleaning of the working area. If the solution sets quickly, then only a small area is overwritten.

What is a grout bag?

If the tiled surface has such a structure that its cleaning process requires considerable effort, for example, imitation of old brickwork, then it is recommended to use a special grout bag. This "tool" visually resembles a pastry bag, with which housewives decorate cakes. A tip is attached to the end of the bag, the diameter of which corresponds to the width of the grout. Then the bag is filled with a solution, which is squeezed out with force directly into the seam.

When using a trowel bag, the tip is placed at the top of the joint and then advanced along as it fills. As a rule, all horizontal seams are filled first, and then vertical ones. In the process of applying the grout, it needs to be squeezed out a little more than it seems at first glance. After some hardening of the solution, it is compacted using jointing or a small piece of a smooth metal tube, the cross-sectional diameter of which is greater than the size of the seam. Then, within 30 minutes, you need to let the grout pressed in the seam seize and then the excess is removed using a stiff brush.

Wet grout removal

When it is visually determined that the grout has hardened sufficiently, the lined surface is wet cleaned. To do this, take an ordinary sponge dipped in ordinary clean water. In a circular motion, excess grout is removed from the tile, while do not forget about the frequent washing of the sponge in water, which must be changed as it gets dirty.

Dry grout removal

The seams need to be aligned and smoothed with a joint, that is, a wooden stick with a sharpened end or the end of a toothbrush handle. Then the edges are trimmed with a sponge. The resulting seam should be even and non-convex, in the vast majority of cases it turns out to be slightly concave. All seams must be the same shape and depth.

We hope that our detailed instructions will help you properly perform self-grouting on a ceramic tiled surface. If some points require clarification, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the training video clip.

You can choose expensive exquisite tiles, the best adhesive mixtures, lay tiles on the walls quickly and efficiently, but if you do the finishing wrong, all the work will go down the drain.

Often the end result largely depends on the final touches, so do-it-yourself grouting tiles in the bathroom is a responsible and scrupulous stage. Thanks to skillful technique, it is possible to create a stable structure with amazingly correct geometry and impeccable appearance.

The purpose of the solution for filling tile joints is clear: it protects the walls (or floor), as well as the adhesive composition from moisture and mechanical damage. The correct grouting process turns individual fragments (tiles, borders, decor) into a complete coating, making bathroom walls aesthetically attractive.

There is a so-called seamless tile, which completely lacks a side chamfer. Perfectly even edges imply tight laying, without the use of seams and, accordingly, grouting materials.

However, most often it is a collection of author's tiles or porcelain tiles, which are very expensive and require professionalism during installation, therefore, ordinary tiles are used for tiling bathrooms in typical city apartments and country cottages.

Talented Polish designer Maciej Zien is the author of many collections of seamless ceramic tiles, one of which, Piccadilly London, is built on the contrast of colors, shapes and textures.

What kind of grout will lie flat, last longer and do not require quick repairs? Quality material should have the following properties:

• uniformity - do not contain clots and inclusions, so as not to create irregularities or air bubbles that provoke the destruction of the layer;
• elasticity - well-bound particles of the solution help quick and easy application;
• strength that occurs at the end of work and allows you to care for the seams without destroying them;
• hydrophobicity repels moisture.

And of course, the grout should match the color scheme of the selected tile - match in shade or, on the contrary, create an expressive contrast, which happens much less often.

The clear geometry of the joints, accentuated by contrasting grouting, and zoning with orange decorative tiles turn the bathroom into a beautiful modern space in which to spend time

Stages of grouting tile joints

It seems to many that grouting is very easy - it is worth applying the composition to the seams, removing the excess and that's it, the job is done. However, in the process of embedding, technical nuances often arise, on which the final result depends. We will try to sort out the finishing stage on the shelves and identify the tricky and difficult moments of such a responsible process.

Step # 1 - prepare tools and materials

The advantage of self-finishing is that you do not need to buy expensive tools and materials. Everything is relatively cheap and sold in building supermarkets. So, for work you will need:

• a set of rubber spatulas for applying the grout and distributing it along the seams;
• several buckets or special containers for mixing the solution;
• construction knife and paint brush for cleaning tile joints;
• several household sponges for wet cleaning;
• protective accessories - a mask and rubber gloves (for aggressive solutions).

Since the process will not last long, it is better to prepare tools and fixtures in advance.

A large amount of clean water is also needed - this is not a problem for the bathroom if the water supply is not blocked due to construction work. From the materials you will need ready-made grout in jars or a dry mix for preparing a mortar, which is usually sold in small packages.

Spatulas for applying and deepening the grout differ from metal tools for plastering walls: they are made of elastic rubber, which is convenient to distribute the composition along the seam without damaging the integrity of the tile

Step # 2 - preparing the seams and mortar

After the glue has completely dried (the time may vary - from 8 hours to 2 days), you can prepare the work surface and dilute the dry mixture with water if you have not purchased a ready-made solution.

The gaps between adjacent tiles must be completely cleaned of adhesive residue with a knife, and then sweep out small fragments and dust with a paint brush. The cleaner the surface to be treated, the smoother the grout will lie and the stronger it will “adhere” to the edges of the tile and the wall.

Preparing the joints when laying new tiles takes much less time than grouting old joints with cracked and darkened grout.

Before grouting the seams on ceramic tiles, we will prepare the mortar. We take a clean container, pour warm water (20-25ºС) into it, pour the dry mixture from the pack and stir thoroughly.

If there is no special mixer attachment for a drill, an ordinary wooden stick will do. The main thing is that there are no lumps in the solution. After preparing the mixture, you should immediately begin the application process.

When preparing a grout, two important factors must be compared: application time and drying time. If you are working slowly, it is better to cook several small portions one at a time.

Step #3 - Applying the grout

At this stage, inexperienced home "tilers" make a small mistake: they begin to fill the seams between the tiles "dry". Professionals recommend moistening the seam with water before applying the composition for better adhesion. Water is applied with a paint brush, preferably a round, large sponge or spray gun.

You can play it safe and use an antiseptic primer instead of water to prevent the appearance of fungus or mold.

If you decide to moisten the seam space with a primer, do not buy a special compound for this purpose. The mortar that you used to prepare the walls for tiles is perfect.

When applying the solution, pay attention to the movements of the spatula - they should go perpendicular to the seam. The grout should be applied quickly, but gently, pressing in a little so that it fills the entire space of the seam.

You can draw the sharp end of the spatula along the application line and once again walk with transverse strokes.

So that there are no wastelands inside the tile joint, the strokes should be tightly superimposed one on top of the other, especially carefully - at the intersections of the lines

Step #4 - Dry and Wet Cleaning

Even with a very careful application of the composition, stains and traces remain on the edges of the tile. How to properly grout tiles, leaving a minimum of traces? Even in the process of processing the seams, you can remove the excess: after several transverse strokes, draw it along with a spatula, collecting the excess solution.

Then, even before the moment of complete drying, you should take a dry cloth or a damp sponge and carefully wipe off the remnants of the solution.

However, be careful: when pressing with a sponge, part of the grout can be squeezed out of the joint, so use only transverse movements.

The more accurate and accurate your movements will be in the process of applying the mortar, the less time you will spend for the subsequent cleaning of the tiles.

A damp sponge is preferable for another reason: by removing excess mortar, it smoothes the seams, makes them even and aesthetically attractive. During work, you should not be distracted, because the grout dries quickly, and it is quite difficult to remove it in a dried state.

Get ready for the fact that after the first cleaning you will have to wipe the entire tile several times with a damp cloth - traces of grout, especially gypsum, are very stable.

The nuances of working with floor tiles

The tile joints on the floor are filled in exactly the same way as on the walls, but there are several nuances that make the job easier. For example, there is a method that allows you to quickly process a floor with smooth tiles. Instead of an ordinary sponge, they take a manual construction grater with a rubber overlay and fill the seams at arm's length with wide, sweeping movements. The solution will lay down evenly and densely fill the voids if made more liquid.

The grater can also be effectively used for the next step - removing grout residues by attaching a porous foam sponge instead of a rubber pad

This method is not suitable if the texture of the tile is embossed, has protrusions or scars. The grout will fill in the depressions in the ceramic, and this is an additional labor-intensive cleaning job.

After treating the ceramic cladding, do not forget to fill the joints around sockets, pipes, plumbing fixtures and towel warmer fixtures with mortar.

Once again about the types of grouting materials

On the shelves of building supermarkets you can find a lot of materials for filling tile joints. Domestic and foreign manufacturers offer products that differ in composition and consistency: dry mixes, ready-made solutions of medium viscosity, dense pastes. Consider how aggregates differ and which ones are better suited for self-grouting.

The basis for the most common type of dry mixes is cement - similar products can be found at every manufacturer. Some cement compositions contain sand, others are diluted with other fillers. Sand mixtures should be used if the width of the seams reaches 4 cm or more, that is, they are absolutely not suitable for bathrooms. Cement-sand mortars are used for external finishing of facades, arrangement of garden paths, construction work in the yard.

Cement grout can be prepared independently, using cement and fine sand, taken in equal proportions, as a base, and some latex additives - for elasticity

For grouting tile joints in bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens, Portland cement mixed with lime is used. The fine grinding of the components guarantees an even, uniform layer upon application. Polymer-cement mortars are not diluted with water, but with a latex-based composition. There are two types of mixtures: colored and light, designed to be mixed with a coloring pigment during preparation.

The second type of solutions is prepared on the basis of resins. Even professionals rarely work with epoxy, which consists of two components and is prepared immediately before application. A thick mass must be applied quickly and very carefully. Hardening, the grouting material becomes equal in strength to ceramic tiles and lasts at least 50 years.

Epoxy mixtures are used for joints wider than 6 mm, but they are sometimes used for finishing bathrooms. Designers add gold or silver powder to the powder and get a luxurious frame for ceramic tiles.

Epoxy grout, bright, with the addition of metallic powder, looks flawless and presentable only when the edges of the tile or mosaic are perfectly even

The most resistant material is considered to be a filler made on the basis of furan resin. It is as expensive as epoxy, and has another feature - it is exclusively black. Despite the high performance and exceptional wear resistance, furanol is rarely used.

Sometimes, to process joints, difficult areas or places where tiles adjoin a sink (bath), silicone filler is used - a sealant. It is sold in plastic syringe tubes and squeezed directly into the seam with a construction gun.

The sealant has elasticity, antiseptic properties, but over time it can change its shade: white or transparent material turns yellow from exposure to water and light.

Especially for glass mosaics and ceramic tiles, water-dispersed water-repellent polyurethane grouts are produced by the well-known Italian company Litocol.

The most convenient filler for beginner tilers is polyurethane grout, which is already sold ready-made in buckets of various sizes. It is universal, that is, it is suitable for sealing joints when laying both tiles and mosaics. The width of the seam can be different - from 1 mm to 5 mm.

The polyurethane composition of the mixture is easy to apply, hardens quickly and does not pose problems during further care.

What should be the optimal width of the seams?

The appearance of a tile depends not only on the color or texture, but also on the width of the joints that surround each element from all sides and affect the visual perception. The opinion that wide seams suppress tiles is erroneous.

On the contrary, too narrow seams interfere with full visual perception, and besides, they are dangerous from a functional point of view: grout hardly gets into them, so it is difficult to judge their integrity and tightness.

When calculating the width of the tile joints, consider two important factors: the ease of application of the mortar and the preservation of such grout properties as water resistance and strength

The disadvantage of too wide seams is their weak resistance to external factors. The grout cracks, crumbles and requires constant updating. For this reason, sand is added to cement mixtures for wide joints. The average size of the sides of a bathroom tile is from 10 to 33 cm, a suitable joint width is 3-4 mm.

How to prevent cracking?

More often than others, cement grout cracks. There are several reasons for rapid destruction: too liquid consistency of the solution, unstable wooden base, exposure to hot water, or the wrong ratio of components. If repairs are not made in time, water will regularly fall under the tiles, which threatens to cause mold.

You can embroider and clean the seams, fill them with mortar again, but where is the guarantee that this will last?

Sometimes even in the process of applying the mass, cracks begin to appear. This means that the prepared solution is not thick enough, and to correct the situation, it is necessary to rub dry powder directly into the cracks formed.

It is better to prevent cracking by listening to the advice of experts. It is necessary that the solution is homogeneous, of medium viscosity, and the seam is well cleaned and wide enough. With self-dilution of the mixture, it is necessary that after mixing it stand for 5-6 minutes, and then mix it again. It is not recommended to ventilate the room during drying or use hot water inside it.

And finally, the main advice: follow the instructions on the package. There you can find information about the correct application of the mortar, the width of the joints and the drying period.

Facades lined with artificial or natural stone, tiles or porcelain stoneware have a solid and prestigious look. Due to the many options for combinations of decorative plates and mortar, cladding with facing bricks and stone will always be relevant.

An important role in the aesthetic perception of the finish is played by the correct grouting. This process is simple, but you need to know all its subtleties. It is important not only to choose the right grout composition, but also to be able to work with it.

It is possible to quickly and correctly fill the seams of stone and ceramic coatings only with the help of a high-quality elastic composition. The modern market of finishing materials offers a wide range of grouts. There are so many compositions for working with stone and tiles that you can get confused. Therefore, you need to know what are the criteria for choosing a quality product.

If stone tiles were attached to the facade with glue, in most cases it is also used for grouting. Do the same with cement-sand mortar. But there is a line of products designed specifically to fill the gaps between trim elements. These are grouts. When developing their composition, all the nuances of the operation of facing materials and all the factors affecting them were taken into account. Therefore, experts recommend using glue for its intended purpose, and filling the seams with a material that is designed specifically for this purpose.

Composition of grout for stone

• cement based;
• using epoxy resins;
• with the addition of latex plasticizers;
• with the addition of silicone;
• with the addition of rubber.

Any of these grouts can be used for facade work. There are dry and wet mixes. For facade work, given their large volume, dry ones are used. These mixtures are prepared in the amount required to process a site of a certain area. As a rule, it is necessary to develop the composition within 30-40 minutes.

If wet mixtures are used, during breaks in work they may lose their main property: elasticity. This is another reason for choosing dry grouts for facade work.

All manufacturers include additives in their products that provide frost resistance and moisture resistance. There are pigmented grouts in a variety of colors. There are mixtures in which you can independently add a coloring matter and achieve the desired shade. But despite the wide selection of grouts, the technology for applying them is the same for all types of compositions.

How to use stone grout correctly

In order for the work to go quickly and smoothly, you need to properly prepare the grout composition. On the packaging of each product there is a manufacturer's instruction, which indicates how and in what proportions to dilute it with water. But in any case, to make a wet mixture, you will need:

Seams are filled in three ways:

The first method is convenient in that it allows you to reduce the time for cleaning the cladding and is suitable for processing coatings with any surface. When using a gun, thorough cleaning of the tile is not required, since a properly prepared solution rarely gets on it.

Technique for filling seams with a syringe gun

Step 1. Clean gaps between tiles with a stiff bristle brush.

Step 2 Moisten the seams using water and a spray bottle.

Step 3 Prepare the solution according to the instructions.

Step 4 Fill the syringe gun with the solution.

Step 5 Pressing on the piston of the gun, fill the tile joints with mortar.

Step 6 At the beginning of the process of solidification of the solution, they begin to grout the seams.

For this purpose, a special tool is used: stitching. It is carried out with uniform pressure along the seam line, removing excess solution. The joint is kept almost parallel to the wall, but with a slight slope from it. This position of the tool ensures the removal of a layer of the same thickness, which is important for the appearance of the cladding.

Technique for filling seams by sludge

The sludge method is only suitable for smooth and even tiles, as it involves the application of a grout over the entire surface of the finishing material. This approach requires a large consumption of the mixture. But this grouting method has its advantages:

• when slimming, the adhesion of the solution to the side walls of the tile is much higher;
• the seams are tight, even and smooth;
• the structure of the seams is homogeneous, so cracks rarely appear on them;
• no stitching and smoothing of seams is required;
• reducing the time of troweling work.

For sludge you will need:

• gloves;
• grater with a metal or plastic sole (you can use a trowel);
• putty knife;
• sponge for surface cleaning;
• brush with hard bristles.

Stages of work

Step 1. Clean up the seams.

Step 2. Moisten the surface of the wall with water and a spray.

Step 3 Pick up a small amount of grout on a grater.

Step 4 Distribute the grout over the surface of the wall so that all recesses are completely filled. Continue until a certain area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe surface has been processed.

Step 5. Re-apply a layer of solution to areas where it is not enough.

Step 6 Carefully smooth out the location of the seams with a grater.

Step 7 Moisten a sponge for cleaning tiles with water and wipe the surface of the wall diagonally to the seams. Continue in this manner until all excess solution is removed.

Step 8 If necessary, wipe the wall with a dry cloth.

Technique for filling seams with a spatula

A popular and traditional method of filling seams with a spatula. Unlike sludge, the mixture is applied only in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe seams, trying to fill them to the full depth.

Grouting with a spatula provides for a thorough cleaning of the cladding upon completion of work. To perform this task, not only a sponge is used, but also a damp rag. It is important not to miss the time and wipe the solution until it sets. Therefore, after processing each area, it is immediately cleaned.

This requirement is especially important for cladding with a relief surface. If the solution is not removed in time, it will harden, and unsightly stains will remain in the recesses of the plates. They will significantly spoil the appearance of the cladding.

Stages of work

Step 1. Prepare the grout mixture with a drill and a mixer.

Step 2 Clean the seams between tiles with a stiff-bristled brush.

Step 3 Moisturize seams.

Step 4 Take a small amount of solution on a trowel or spatula.

Step 5 Rub the solution into the seams between the tiles. This process in the language of specialists has its own name: "minting". The solution is applied in two layers using the “fresh on fresh” technique.

Step 6. Sew up the seams.

Step 7. Clean the wall surface.

Brush off excess

An important stage of work is the stitching. It is started at the moment when the grout dries to a state of wet sand. Excess mortar is cut off using the "mason's jointing" tool. Instead, you can use any object suitable for this purpose.

During stitching, the seam is given a beautiful relief and a smooth surface. During the hardening period of the solution, it is periodically moistened with a sprayer. Freshly laid grout must be protected from precipitation and direct sunlight for 2 days. The easiest way is to cover the wall with plastic wrap, while ensuring sufficient ventilation.

Overview of stone grouts

Grout RSS

High-quality RSS grout is designed for grouting joints between any facade cladding materials. The composition is made on a mineral basis, includes additives to ensure moisture resistance and frost resistance.

The mixture is sold in bags of 25 kg. To prepare the solution, the contents of the bag are mixed with 3-4.5 liters of water and thoroughly mixed with a drill with a mixer. RSS grout is easy to use: it does not flow, evenly fills the seams, and has good crack resistance. The mixture can be used for outdoor and indoor use.

Grout prices RSS

Grout RSS

Ceresit Super

The Ceresit Super grout line allows you to choose exactly the composition that is needed for the finishing of a particular material.

Ceresit Super construction grout prices

Construction grout Ceresit Super

Kiilto Saumalaasti

Kiilto Saumalaasti grout is designed for indoor and outdoor use. It is made on the basis of cement with the addition of lime and polymers. Elastic, easy to apply and rinse off. Possesses moisture resistance, heat resistance and frost resistance. It is used to fill joints with a width of 2-6 mm.

During facade work, it can be applied to concrete and brick with a moisture content of up to 90%. The ready-to-use solution is applied with a rubber spatula, the drying time does not exceed 15 minutes. When preparing the mixture, it is important to observe the dosage of water. If the norm is exceeded, the grout may wash out during the first 5 days after application.

The freshly prepared composition has an alkaline property, so it must be prevented from getting into the eyes and on the skin. When mixing the mixture, it is recommended to use a respirator.

Grout prices Kiilto Saumalaasti

Grout Kiilto Saumalaasti

Perel

The Perel grout line offers a wide range of grouts, including winter mixes with a high degree of moisture resistance and crack resistance.

PEREL RL 5410 is one of the most commonly used façade mixes. The demand for the product is due to its high quality and ease of application. This mixture belongs to the category of decorative, used to obtain premium surfaces of tile joints. It is used for finishing works with any finishing material. Suitable for filling joints with a syringe gun.

Preparation of the composition:

• clean water is poured into a deep container at the rate of 4.5-5 liters per 25 kg of dry mixture;
• add the required amount of the mixture;
• mix the composition for 2-3 minutes until a homogeneous mass is obtained using a drill and a mixer;
• leave the solution for 2-3 minutes;
• re-mix for 1 min.

The prepared portion of the solution must be worked out within 3 hours. At the first sign of solidification of the mixture, it is re-mixed without adding water or any other components.

Perel grout prices

Grout Perel

Grout FM quick mix has its own characteristics of preparation: only 3 liters of water are required for 25 kg dry. The composition is mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained and the consistency of moist earth without lumps is reached. Thanks to the optimal combination of aggregates, the grout is light and easy to use.

FM quick mix grout is available in 16 shades of colour. The product belongs to the professional category and has all the necessary properties for facade work: moisture-resistant, frost-resistant, durable. The mixture is made on a cement basis, environmentally friendly.

Prices for grout FM quick mix

Grout FM quick mix

Video - Grouting facade tiles, grouting on thermal panels

Structures. Over time, interpanel seams and joints begin to collapse, resulting in the formation of mold, leaks and building fungus, which leads to freezing of the walls.

The main causes of the destruction of interpanel butt joints

The following reasons for depressurization of joints can be distinguished:

• non-compliance with technological standards during construction;
• gradual displacement of wall panels due to uneven settlement of load-bearing elements of the structure;
• deformation of panels due to temperature fluctuations;
• the impact on sealed joints of atmospheric factors, such as "acid precipitation", snow and rain.

Sealing materials

To seal and insulate interpanel joints, special sealing mastics and self-adhesive tape are used. These sealants have different brands, components and different applications.

The main accompanying material necessary for sealing the joints is a sealant, which will perform a heat-shielding function, and is also the basis for the laid mastic and self-adhesive tape.

The best sealants are compounds based on foaming polyurethane (PPU). Due to these factors, destruction and deformation of interpanel joints occur, which leads to rapid freezing of the outer walls in winter, as well as their leakage during heavy rains. As a result of this, not only the interior of the building can deteriorate, but also the risk of morbidity among the people there increases significantly.

The main types of joint sealing

• Primary sealing is used in new buildings where sealant treatment has not yet been carried out.
• Secondary sealing consists in repairing the joints of a building that is currently in operation.

Primary sealing

This type of sealing, as a rule, is carried out in panel houses immediately after their construction is completed.

Interpanel seams of new buildings are processed in 3 stages:

1. Empty interpanel cavities are filled with heat-protective polyurethane foam.
2. The interpanel seam is processed with the innovative Vilaterm insulation, which is a fine-mesh, fairly light white material.
3. Additionally, the seam is sealed from the outside with a special mastic that has good water-repellent properties.

The use of these three stages allows you to create the so-called "warm seam", which allows you to provide reliable thermal and waterproofing in all weather conditions.

Secondary sealing

It is carried out in buildings where some time ago the interpanel seams were already subjected to this processing process. It is best to carry out secondary sealing 6-8 years after the primary insulation. Interpanel seams, the sealing of which is carried out again, are sealed by covering the old layer of sealant with a new one.

Interpanel seams. Sealing: general rules

Depending on the state of the seam, secondary sealing is divided into two types.

If it is in a satisfactory condition, if the old insulation has not undergone significant destruction, secondary processing can be limited only to applying a new outer layer of waterproofing mastic. If all the signs of severe destruction of the interpanel seams are clearly visible, then certain work is required when they are resealed. These include: opening the seam, removing all old fillers that have become unusable, and carrying out the entire range of sealing work, as in the case of primary sealing.

When performing repair work on panel joints, it is necessary to follow some rules:

• In case of leaking panel joints in the end wall, the interpanel seams of the entire end facade of the building, as well as the joints between the end panels and the longitudinal wall, are sealed.
• If a vertical joint of the longitudinal facade leaks, all vertical joints along the entire height of the house are sealed. In addition, all horizontal joints adjacent to it are sealed.
• If a defect is found in a horizontal joint, all joints located on three or four vertical rows of panels are subject to sealing.
• When carrying out repair work on panel joints, one should take into account the fact that sealants are subjected to tension and compression at the joints. This is influenced by temperature fluctuations, shrinkage and "creep" of concrete, as well as loads arising from the settlement of the entire building. Moreover, with an increase in the ratio of the thickness of the hermetic agent layer to the width of the interpanel seam, such loads become stronger. For this reason, the sealant layer should be half the width of the joint.

Sealing of interpanel seams. Technology

Interpanel seams, the sealing of which should occur as efficiently as possible, are processed in several stages. For the most durable sealing, it is necessary to open them.

We propose to consider the phased repair of panel joints with opening.

The following sealing of butt joints in prefabricated houses is called a "warm joint". Its main difference is the application of a layer of special heat-shielding foam to the base of the seams.

Such a repair of seams has passed a large number of tests and has been successfully used in many countries of the world for a long time.

Step by step seam sealing at home

Consider how to insulate interpanel seams.

1. At the first stage of work, before repairing the joints, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory measures. They consist in a thorough inspection of interpanel seams and surface preparation. This includes:

• cleaning surfaces from paint, dust, dirt and exfoliated panels;
• removal from the seams and joints of the old, worn-out insulation and sealing agent;
• crack patching.

2. Interpanel seams are carefully filled with heat insulating material. It should be noted that this material tends to expand during hardening and thereby fill the existing void inside the seam. Cleaning and sealing of seams in buildings can be done both manually and mechanically. Before starting work, it is necessary to check the surface of the interpanel joints. It must be kept dry.

3. Insulation of interpanel seams by installing Vilaterm insulation, which is produced in the form of hollow tubes. It is widely used in the repair of seams in panel buildings. According to its properties, the material has good elasticity, dense structure, it is quite convenient for them to work. Lay "Vilaterm" on a layer of foam that has not yet hardened. In diameter, it should be 25-30% larger than the width of the seam.

The laying of the insulation is carried out without breaks along the entire length so that there is room for applying sealant on top of the insulation.

4. The last stage is the sealing of the seams using a sealing mastic (water-repellent sealant), which closes the previously laid insulation.

This completes the sealing of the interpanel joints!

Sealing of seams between the panels of the house is carried out in the temperature range from -10°C to +30°C. In this case, there must be no precipitation, otherwise the sealing of the joints may be short-lived.

Interpanel seams, the sealing of which is carried out at a height above the 2nd floor, are sealed by qualified industrial climbers.