Most of the home craftsmen, who are the bulk of subscribers and visitors to our site, have already solved the problem of organizing their workplace to one degree or another by setting up comfortable workbenches in their workshops and on the balcony.
But there are also those who look closely at home needlework, try this universal profession, which includes many specialties, which becomes a very useful hobby for the family.
First of all, this article is for them, but perhaps it will also be useful to those who have already found themselves in the role of homemade and, having decided on the main types of work, can competently do the arrangement of a home workbench for the workshop with their own hands.
Workshop Workbench Types
A workbench is a table for carrying out various specialized processing work. different materials. Accordingly, depending on what material you have to work with and what operations to carry out, workbenches differ from each other in size, configuration and material of manufacture. According to the type of materials processed, workbenches are divided into:
- carpentry;
- plumbing;
- combined.
Based on the design features, the following types are added to them:
- universal;
- folding.
folding universal workbenches produced by different companies with different list of functions, and distinctive feature, first of all, is their mobility. Therefore, if you convert your experience of a home craftsman into banknotes outside your apartment or courtyard of your house, you can either pick up a factory-made universal folding workbench, or, after analyzing a number of design features of a particular model, make it yourself.
But for a home workshop, more massive workbenches are suitable, and here three options are possible:
- carpenter's workbench with the ability to perform a number of plumbing operations;
- locksmith workbench with the ability to perform a number of carpentry operations;
- combined workbench.
We immediately note that the latter option is not best solution, since it does not allow to fully perform both carpentry and metalwork types of work, but is only relatively adapted for their production, therefore the first 2 options, in our opinion, are preferable. It is these options that we will consider in the examples for self-manufacturing.
Making a simple DIY garage workbench
by the most simple workbench for a home workshop there will be a fairly powerful table with a small set additional features: boxes, shelves, etc. for storing tools and remanent.
Well, if there is a possibility of its slight transformation to perform metal or woodwork, but more on that below.
To create such a workbench, we will take wooden bars 40x80 and cut out 4 legs: 2 pcs. length 700 mm, 2 pcs. 750 mm long and 2 lower jumpers 500 mm long. For 2 upper jumpers of the same length, we used a 40x100 bar available on the farm.
He will also go for top harness the base of our workbench at the front, with a length of 1400 mm at the bottom and 1600 mm at the top. And behind we use edged board 40x150x1600, but we will need all the long blanks later.
If you have a tool for making spiked joints, use it, as we did.
If not, then make them manually or you can butt the parts using overhead metal fasteners.
Gather side racks as shown in the photo below.
After that, you can begin to assemble the entire bed.
The central jumper inside the frame, made of the same 40x80 bar, fixed on small wooden brackets 40x40x180, in addition to strengthening the structure, serves as a stop for two bedside tables with drawers from old desks that we decided to use in our workbench.
For the working surface of the workbench, we also used our laminated fiberboard surface. We screwed a board on metal plates to the leading edge, which will protect its edge from peeling during operation. It will also serve as the basis for fastening a small metalwork vice with a clamp.
We fixed the working surface to the frame on metal corners and got a fairly powerful general-purpose workbench for our home workshop.
Making a carpentry workbench with modifications for performing locksmith work
If you mainly work with wood, then it would be logical to make a carpentry workbench and do some design modifications for locksmith operations.
The traditional carpentry workbench for the workshop has a design that has been worked out for centuries, which has practically not undergone significant changes up to the present day. It is based on a massive bed on spiked joints, using wedges for tightening in case of drying out, a powerful (often type-setting) tabletop with a recessed tray for collecting chips and tools, and two vise-clamps for fixing workpieces.
The dimensions of such a workbench are selected depending on maximum length workpieces that will be processed on it. If you are going to make wooden doors on your own, then the length of the workbench must be at least 2.5 m and a width of at least 0.8 m, otherwise your work on it will turn into hard labor. The workbench of my grandfather - the best carpenter in the area for at least 50 km in all directions - was 3000x1000 and he said that he lacked 20 centimeters in width to make large frames for verandas.
The dimensions of the school carpentry workbench are 1200 x 500 x 750. If the dimensions in the plan suit you and you are ready to spend about 13 thousand rubles on it, then the height can be adjusted by screwing bars of the appropriate size to the legs. But you can also consider alternative options.
As a matter of fact, these are variations on the theme of the same carpentry workbench for the workshop with different material for countertops, the presence or absence of drawers, shelves and various vise mechanisms. Now in order:
1. We make the bed from dry pine lumber 40-50 x 80-100 mm, calculating the height for your height. If your workbench will be installed in a room where there will be no sudden changes humidity, then the connection of its elements can be made in any convenient way, albeit end-to-end using fixing metal plates and corners.
2. The table top can be made from ready-made glued wooden panels sold in most building supermarkets, or glued from planed bars with a thickness of at least 50 mm yourself using PVA glue, having built a simple clamping device. It is important to remember that the top side of the future workbench should be as flat as possible. You can also use thick-layer plywood for the countertop, but it is still advisable to paste over its ends wooden slats oak, beech or ash.
3. To fasten the clamping mechanisms, the bottom of the table top of the workbench is built up with bars of the appropriate sizes. The most popular are clamping devices:
- carpenter's lead screw with two Czech-made guides Tr 24 * 5, 390/205 at a price of approx. 3 thousand rubles.
Spanish carpenter's vice Piher, 150 mm, approx. 2 thousand rubles;
You can also make some kind of their own by using a pin with a diameter of 14 - 16 mm, which, of course, will not transmit such efforts as a vise, but it will make your clamp extremely economical and maintainable, due to its cheapness;
Or make an even simpler clamping device from the same studs, but due to the lack of guides, put 2 such clamps on one vice.
4. Make holes for the stop pegs in two directions opposite the vise lead screw. It is also useful to make them parallel to each other over the entire surface of the countertop for confident fastening of overall products.
5. Fasten the workbench tabletop to the base on powerful metal corners and, if you do not plan to move it, use them to fasten it to the floor.
And you have successfully completed the first task of the workbench option described in this section of the article.
Now, several options for fixtures for performing plumbing work on such a workbench.
- The simplest of them is to make an overlay of steel 3–5 mm thick with a frame of steel angle, stored separately from the workbench or attached to it on hinges and lowered to the table top if necessary.
- main attribute locksmith workbench are a bench vise. In this case, we recommend using a vise with fasteners that do not require passing through the workbench top.
Of course, you can fit the holes for the stops under the fasteners of the vice, but with a thick overlay, you can do without it. Also of interest is the option of attaching a bench vise directly to the tabletop of a carpentry workbench using a transition bar-stand and a powerful clamp.
And at the same time, the overlay should not be done on the entire area of the workbench. There are many options, the choice is yours.
Refinement of a locksmith's workbench for carpentry work
Often, especially if the farm has a car and a garage, the main workbench is a locksmith.
We will not consider the process of its manufacture in this article, but about simple ways we will tell you about its adaptation for carpentry, especially since it is not at all difficult. To fully use your locksmith's workbench as a carpenter's bench, you will need to dismantle the locksmith's vise and make some simple fixtures.
Let's consider them in more detail.
1. From the first figure below, when finalizing the locksmith's workbench, we will be interested primarily in the side stop (1), which is not difficult to make removable. And together with the holes for the dowels (14) along the front end of the workbench (and this can be a one-piece removable structure) and a suitable wedge, we get a simple and reliable device fastening the board to the workbench. You can simply make a wooden plate fixed with recessed clamps, with all the set of blank fasteners shown, and understand that the level of the working surface will rise by its thickness, which can be compensated for by the appropriate height with a ladder at the workbench.
There is nothing to say about the back stop, it simply performs a supporting function for long workpieces.
2. You can make an overlay planer board with a universal stop, shown in the second picture. By increasing the height of the stop (or changing it depending on the height of the processed bar) and screwing with bottom side a beam for resting on the right edge of the workbench, we will get the simplest device that turns a metalwork workbench into a carpentry workbench.
3. A slightly more complex overlay with a fairly powerful option for fixing the workpiece also allows us to solve this problem. The only thing we would recommend in this case is to also screw the stop on the right side and choose a thickness of at least 50-70 mm for a more reliable fastening of the front pegs and sufficient depth of the lock and clamp.
The way to install the last two planing devices on the workbench is shown in the diagram:
Dear readers, if you still have questions, ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)
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In any private house, workshop or garage, a carpentry workbench is a very necessary item. With its help it is convenient to make or repair any things, it also combines the functions of a table and a tool shelf at the same time. It can be equipped with a bench vise, and a sharpening machine can be installed on it. various instrument. If you purchase metal workbench in the store, then it will cost a considerable amount of money, but it is quite possible to make a workbench from wood with your own hands.
Necessary tools and materials
So, for the independent manufacture of a workbench in the garage, you will need the following tools:
- Hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
- Roulette;
- Square;
- Building level;
- Spanners;
- Drill;
- Screwdriver.
Materials:
- bars for supports;
- 2 sheets of plywood or OSB (one of the sheets is cut out under the shelf required size);
- boards for the frame;
- self-tapping screws;
- bolts;
- washers;
- nuts.
Before work, it is necessary to make a drawing of a workbench with dimensions for ease of assembly.
Step-by-step instructions for making a workbench
For the manufacture of the upper frame, it is necessary to saw off the boards based on the required size of the workbench (see photo).
Using self-tapping screws, fix 2 long and 2 short boards so that a rectangular frame is obtained. Using a tape measure, mark the distance to the middle of the frame, and fix the remaining short board perpendicularly, between two long boards, attaching it with self-tapping screws from both ends.
To make the legs of the workbench, you will need to saw off 6 equal bars. FROM inside of the resulting base, fasten one leg to each corner of the frame with bolts, washers and nuts (see workbench diagram).
For the rigidity of the structure, it is necessary to put additional boards, which will also serve as the basis for the lower shelf. To do this, you need to saw off 4 boards.
With a tape measure, you need to measure an equal distance from each leg of 30 cm, at the resulting level, fix the board to the back of the structure to 3 legs, and from the front, fix the board between the extreme and middle legs, in the place where the future shelf is planned.
The remaining two boards must be fixed to the legs, at the same level as the boards for the shelves.
From one or more sheets of plywood or OSB using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw we cut out the necessary segments. We fix them to the top of the workbench flush with self-tapping screws. Additionally, a sheet of hardboard can be fixed on top, because. it can be easily replaced with a new one if the old one is badly worn out. The bottom shelf is made according to the same scheme. The distance between the extreme and middle legs of the workbench is measured with a tape measure, a sheet of material is cut out according to this size and placed on the resulting base.
When attaching legs or crossbars, it is necessary to use a square to obtain equal distance between building parts. With the help of a level, at the place of installation, you need to check whether the workbench made with your own hands is level. In the event of a slope, it must be leveled by placing wooden chips under the legs of the workbench.
1. Glue the front beam from several layers BUT and trim to final size (Fig. 1 and 1a). Then cut grooves in it with a width of 19 and a depth of 41 mm (Fig. 1a, photo A and AT).
Brief advice! Do not glue the parts of the milling template, but fasten them only with screws. The template will again be needed to slot into the rear vise block which is wider than the cover front bar.
From a couple of pieces of thick board and 12 mm thick material, assemble a simple jig for milling at an angle of 2 ° grooves, which will become holes for the bench stops.
When cutting slots in the front bar with a 12mm helical cutter and 19mm guide sleeve, remove material little by little, gradually increasing the depth.
2. Cut out the overlay AT and glue it to the front beam, aligning the right ends of the parts. Carefully remove the squeezed out excess glue.
3. Using the template usually supplied with the front vise, mark and drill the holes for the rods. (photo C, fig. 1).
Position the mounting template so that the vise holes do not intersect with the bench rest holes in the A/B front bar. Mark the centers of the holes with an awl.
Note. This project uses a front and back viseLee Valley. They feature good workmanship, smooth operation and come with detailed instruction by installation.
4. Now make the cover shield FROM, lower pads for the front D and rear E vice, spacer F and rear bar G. Glue the trims, back rail, spacer and front rail to the lid (Fig. 1).
5. Make the left and right tips H, I (Fig. 2). Form tongues 36 mm wide and 57 mm deep along one side of the tips and drill 12 mm holes.
Brief advice! To quickly make clean and tidy sheet piles, remove most of the material with a slotted disc and then smooth the sides and bottom with a router table.
6. Mill on the ends of the cover A-G rebate on both sides 57 mm wide and 36 mm deep (a photoD), to form combs that are inserted into the tongues of the tips H, I.
Use the tip as a guide to cut the folds on the lid. Be careful not to hit the front trim B with the cutter.
7. Place the left tip on the comb H by pushing it to the front pad AT. Right tip I align with the front edge of the shield FROM. Mark the centers of the 12mm holes (photo E). Remove the tips and use the awl to mark other centers, moving them 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the combs (a photoF). Draw parallel lines, 6 mm apart on both sides of each mark left by the awl, so that the distance between the lines is 12 mm.
Use the point of a 12 mm drill to transfer the centers of the holes in the tips H, I to the ridges of the cover.
Move the centers of the holes 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the comb so that when driving in the dowels, the tip with the cover is pulled tighter.
With a thin round rasp, process all holes except the first. Do not go beyond the parallel lines so that the parts fit snugly.
8. Drill 12 mm holes according to the marking. Then, starting at the second hole (counting from the front edge of the lid), increase it 2mm on both sides without going beyond the parallel lines to make an oval 16mm long. Do the same with other holes, increasing the length of each next by 1.5 mm in both directions (a photoG, rice. 2). This will allow the lid to change its width with seasonal fluctuations in humidity. In the right tip I cut 57x165mm flush with the bottom of the spacer F and the end of the bottom lining E.
9. Put on the tips H, I on the combs and secure with 12mm hardwood dowels, driving them into the holes without using glue. Saw off the protruding ends of the dowels flush with the upper and lower edges of the tips.
Brief advice! To facilitate the installation of tips, take dowels of increased length and make narrowing at their ends.
Add a vise
1. From scraps, assemble a frame that will limit the area of movement of the router when selecting a recess in the bottom plate D for front vice (photo H). Mark the recess so that it is located 70 mm from the front edge of the cover, and its middle coincides with the center big hole for the vice screw.
Use a 12mm ascending cutter to select a 57x305x406mm recess for the vise mechanism. Rearrange as necessary the trim supporting the router.
Peel off the back plate to slide the vise mechanism into place. Then install it again, and the operation can be considered completed.
2. Cut out the block J for the movable jaw of the front vice. Drill holes in the block, marking them with the template used earlier, positioning it so that the left end of the block is aligned with the left edge of the cover.
3. Mill along the ends of the movable jaw J shouldered fillets and attach the front vise to the cover following the directions in the instructions (photo I). Install the stock handlebar in place.
4. Cut out the block according to the indicated dimensions To for rear clamps. Remake the milling fixture that was used before and form grooves in the block with a width of 19 and a depth of 41 mm at an angle (Fig. 3 and 3a).
5. Cut out the overlay L for rear clamps. Drill in the block To 10 mm through holes with 25 mm counterbores (Fig. 3 and Per). Pressing the overlay with clamps to the block, mark the centers of the holes on it with a 10 mm drill through the holes in the block. Then drill holes with a diameter of 16 mm at the marked points. Note. Our method is slightly different from the one described in the instructions and requires the use of washers and plugs that are not included in the vise package. In doing so, we hid the bolt heads under the plugs rather than leaving them in plain sight.
6. Glue the overlay L to the block K (photoJ) and carefully remove any extruded adhesive from the bench stop holes.
Align the holes of the block K exactly with the holes of the pad L. In order not to spend a lot of time removing excess glue, apply it evenly in a thin layer.
7. Attach the assembled block K/L together with the rear vice mechanism in place, following the instructions. Close the bolt heads with plugs and install the standard handle-lever.
Make bench stops
1. Saw according to the dimensions indicated in the "List of Materials" 17 stops M and 17 springs N. For the stops, we chose cherry wood, as it retains the required strength for a long time, does not leave dents on the details, and its color contrasts well with the wood white oak from which the workbench cover is made. For springs, dense and elastic wood, such as maple, is suitable.
2. To give the stops the desired shape, make copies of the template, increasing them by 2 times. Then glue the springs to the stops. Check how the assembled stops fit into the holes and adjust if necessary. They should be removed and recessed without much effort and at the same time remain on desired height. To learn more about them, read the article "Bench stops" published in this issue of the magazine.
Let's go to the base
Note. Before you start making, measure and record the dimensions of the recess on the underside of the lid. The top of the cabinet base should fit snugly into this recess. If it fails to fit, you will need to resize it to fit the recess or widen the edges of the recess for final assembly.
1. According to the dimensions indicated in the “List of Materials”, cut out the shelves O, partitions R and edge trims Q, R. Glue lining to shelves and partitions (Fig. 4). Then glue the shelves O/Q to partitions P/R and secure with additional screws.
2. Sawing plinth boards S and kings T, glue them to the O-R divider shelf assembly.
3. From 19mm cherry veneered plywood, cut out the side and back walls U, V. Glue the side walls in place first, securing with additional screws, then add the back wall, using only glue to fix it.
4. Note. Check the dimensions of the assembled body before sawing out the crossbeams, uprights and overlays and make sure that the lengths listed in the Materials List are appropriate for your project. We advise you to cut out the detailsW— GG with a slight allowance in length, and then fit them in place.
Cut out the top and bottom rails W, X, as well as racks Y (Fig. 5). Glue the top and bottom rails to the front of the base, then add the uprights.
5. Now cut out the back rails Z, AA, racks BB, mullions SS and side rails DD, EE. Glue the bottom back bar AA and middlemen to back wall V (photo K). Then glue the rear top rail and posts in place, then the side bottom rails with mullions to the side walls, and finally the top side rails and posts.
Use a couple of thick, even-edged blocks to press the SS center pieces more firmly against the back wall.
6. Mill 10 mm chamfers at the corners of the body, ending at the joints of the crossbeams with the uprights (Fig. 6).
Before connecting the plinth boards, you need to saw the bevels on the slats glued on top. After that, you can start milling fillets.
7. From the 19mm cherry boards, cut the side, front and back plinth boards FF, GG specified length with an allowance of about 3 mm in width. Then saw off a 19 x 19 mm strip from the top edge of each plinth board and mark the pieces to put them in place later. Finally, make the dovetail joints to hold the plinth boards together (Fig. 6a).Note. If instead of dovetail spikes you decide to make simple paws, cut the plinth boards of the specified width (without allowance) and do not saw off the lath from above.
8. File the miter bevels on the slats for the side plinths only, without shortening them. Glue each of them to the corresponding part from which it was sawn off. Then glue the slats without bevels to the front and back plinth boards. Bevel only the top of the front and back plinth boards so that they fit snugly into the side plinth boards. The bevel edge should be close to the marking line, and the exact mating of the parts can be achieved by fitting, removing the material little by little (a photoL). Next, cut a 19mm fillet with a 3mm offset along the top edge of all plinth boards.
9. Glue the plinth boards to the base. You may have to use screws or nails to fasten them if you made bevels at their ends instead of dovetails.
Add doors
1. Cut out the crossbars HH, racks II and panels JJ specified dimensions (Fig. 7).
2. Make dowels 6 mm wide and 12 mm deep centered on the inner edges of all uprights and rungs. Then form spikes 6 mm thick and 12 mm long at the ends of the crossbars.
3. Assemble the doors by gluing the posts, rails and panels together. When the glue is dry, check how the doors fit into the base opening and adjust if necessary. Then cut 5x5mm seams on the top and bottom edges of the doors on the inside, as well as 10x5mm seams on posts where there are no hinges. These rebates leave enough space between the doors and the cabinet for the installation of magnetic latches.
Attach the doors to the cabinet with the hinges and put the magnetic latches in place.
Lower the lid onto the base
1. Invite three well-built buddies to use them to lift the heavy bench top and place it on the base. There is no need to fix it - thanks to its massiveness and precise fit, it is well kept in place.
2. Once you've set up your new workbench in your workshop, immediately move on to your next project so you can enjoy your time in the workshop even more!
When a major renovation is underway in a household, it is necessary that everything be at hand at any time, which will allow maximum benefit use time. To do this, it is important to properly organize workplace home master, if he is used to doing everything with his own hands. During repair or construction, a significant place is occupied by woodwork. However, sawing timber on a stool or bench is inconvenient and long. Rational use of time and resources will help the desktop, also known as the workbench. Make it possible at home.
For most men, the garage is both a "home" for a car, and a storage room and a workshop at the same time.
Not every owner believes that a workbench is constantly needed on the farm: it is needed only for the period of repair or reconstruction of the building, so he prefers to rent it. But such an opinion is erroneous, especially if he is the owner of a household standing on the ground. The carpentry workbench that appeared on the farm will be a real help for him. Having made such a design, the owner receives a number of advantages compared to using a workbench, rented or bought in a building supermarket.
- He will save a significant amount of money, which he can use for further home improvement.
- Gain additional management experience and practical skills.
- Get at your disposal a comfortable desktop, suitable for processing parts made of wood and metal.
- If the owner makes a workbench with his own hands, he can use it at any time.
Therefore, in one room (well, if there is a basement) it is necessary to place racks and a workplace.
Table types
known different kinds workbenches that have different purposes.
- Carpentry workbench for crafting wooden parts. It is convenient to handle small wooden crafts, but not intended for primary wood processing. For him, you need a countertop three meters long and one meter wide. Details on it are fixed with wooden horizontal and vertical clamps.
- The carpentry fixture is much larger in all respects and heavier. Tree trunks are processed on it, boards, timber and other wood blanks are cut.
- Universal table allows you to work with wood and metal; its table top is reinforced with metal band and has wood and metal clips.
There is a table for locksmith work and car maintenance in almost every garage.
There is another definition of the types of structures according to the possible location.
- Mobile (portable). Used to perform small jobs with details small size. It is comfortable and light enough. It can be easily moved from one place to another. Is staffed carpenter's table vise of small or medium size, which allows it to be used for small plumbing work.
- The stationary desktop is massive and stable. It can be used to process lumber, but such a workbench is unlikely to be useful to a home craftsman if he does not constantly engage in woodworking.
- Prefabricated on connections using bolts. This is a kind of transformer: at any time it can be supplemented with special equipment and necessary changes, depending on the tasks to be solved.
And as a rule - it is self-made, that is, made taking into account the characteristics of a particular room.
What kind of construction will you choose? House master, directly depends on what goals and objectives it sets:
- the desktop is needed for the processing of small parts and the manufacture of small products only for the period of repair and construction work;
- the owner will constantly use it and work with small volumes of wood parts;
- a workbench will be needed to carry out the primary processing of wood, turning it into boards, timber on an ongoing basis;
- it is intended to use the table for occasional processing of small wood and metal parts.
The shape and dimensions are determined by the configuration of the room.
Experienced home craftsmen claim that even a novice owner who does not have the skills to handle metalwork tools can make a product.
The garage workbench is often compared to a desk because it provides the convenience to carry out a variety of jobs and allows everything to be done. necessary tools keep on hand.
Material selection
To make a workbench with your own hands, the master needs wood and metal. If it is supposed to make a small table, then it will be suitable for it. wooden base. Suitable for table top laminated chipboard, pressed plywood with a thickness of at least 5 - 7 cm. For a stationary table, you can use well-planed boards, tightly fitted to each other, and partially - metal.
In addition to the countertop, it has a large number of shelves and drawers.
And if at the disposal of the home master there is an unnecessary desk, then it will become a good basis. It is also convenient because it already has several drawers or compartments for storing tools.
The workplace of a motorist must be durable and stable.
Will find application in the design old door from a whole canvas. It will make an excellent durable countertop that does not even require processing.
Cabinets with tools and tools must be placed under the table. consumables(drills, hacksaw blades, rags, etc.).
The use of improvised materials available on the farm for the manufacture carpenter's table do-it-yourself will save time and money for the home master.
It is irrational to make a monolithic cabinet out of the table; you need to put your legs somewhere during sedentary work.
You can make your own workbench out of metal. It will be strong, reliable and heavy. But experience shows that an intermediate option is considered the most acceptable, when the frame and cover of the workbench are made of wood, and then sheathed with sheet metal.
However, both sides should be, if not sets of drawers, then at least a set of shelves.
A home craftsman who decides to make a workbench with his own hands will need a certain set of materials. What is needed for this, he knows well.
The workbench in the garage should not be part of the rack, therefore, the wall above it is a place for hanging tool storage.
And for those who do not yet have sufficient experience, we have compiled a list of everything necessary for its manufacture:
- metal corner;
- steel strip and galvanized iron sheet;
- plywood;
- screws;
- anchor bolts;
- square pipe;
- wooden planks ;
- self-tapping screws for metal;
- dye.
Both metal and wooden workbench have the right to life.
What tools will be needed
A self-made small wooden carpentry workbench will take its rightful place in the home workshop. To make it, you don't need a large number tools.
On the steel sheet you can always put a piece of plywood or hardboard, and on wooden surface- galvanized sheet.
You will need a standard set that can be found in every home:
- screwdriver;
- roulette;
- Bulgarian;
- electric jigsaw or hand saw;
- a hammer.
First of all, we determine the ergonomics of the workplace.
Depending on what material will be used for the carpentry workbench, the list of materials and tools may vary. For example, to make a metal desktop, you can not do without welding machine and electrodes.
The height of the workbench should be such that you do not have to bend your back, and at the same time, stand on tiptoe.
Where to put?
Before starting work, it is important to immediately determine for what and how often the table will be used, where it will be placed. You can't do without a drawing. The answers to these questions will determine its dimensions, material and manufacturing procedure.
The best place to place the device can be considered that part of the room (garage or barn), where there is natural light. It is also important that next to the workbench are electrical sockets to connect power tools and a lamp. It is best if the light falls from the left or straight, then the working surface of the table will be illuminated during the day.
Design the dimensions of your work area.
Then the parameters are determined future design. In spite of existing norms regarding the size of the table, if you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, the home master will proceed from expediency and the actual space available, so the tabletop will be such that tools and parts are freely placed here, without strict adherence to dimensions. The width is usually 50-60 cm; this size is considered optimal, as it allows you to freely reach the opposite edge of the countertop.
The typical vertical table size is in the range of 850-950 mm.
Another important parameter is the height of the workbench. Exist various ways its definitions, ranging from exact mathematical calculations to folk experience, suggesting to consider best indicator distance from extreme point arm bent at the elbow to the floor. Experienced Master can make it adjustable.
A perforated metal sheet is perfect as a wall for placing tools.
After determining the main parameters of the product, you can proceed with the assembly.
- First, the legs are fixed (four supports from a steel angle, which are also connected by angles and fixed by welding from above and below.). The result is a rectangular welded structure.
- After the frame is made, they begin to prepare the countertop. Boards cut to size are laid out on top of the frame and tightly fastened. The tabletop is connected to the frame with bolts. The working surface must be processed: planed and sanded. The bottom must be secured with crossbars or wooden blocks. They are screwed to each of the elements of the resulting shield.
After fixing it, you need to cover the cover with metal (it is better if it is galvanized). A metal sheet fixed to the surface of the countertop with self-tapping screws. If burrs form, they must be cleaned.
The workpieces should be cut before the start of welding.
The main work on the manufacture of the workbench is completed here, but to make the structure more rigid and attach to the floor, you can weld it from below metal corners. Optionally, it can be equipped with drawers, shelves for tools.
We reinforce all welded joints with a corner or a steel strip.
From necessary equipment on the workbench, you must definitely find a place for a vice. They are hung on the front side of the countertop and are used to fasten products. If there are often large parts in the work, there is a need to install several vices of different sizes.
The key is to reinforce all 90° joints.
Under the workbench, you can mount shelves where you can place various devices, right tool or stack machined parts.
Be sure to impregnate the tree with an antiseptic and fire impregnation.
Carefully made with your own hands, the carpentry workbench will become convenient fixture for the work of a home master.
This design is close to the ideal of a do-it-yourself garage workbench.
VIDEO: do-it-yourself workbench.
Creating a workbench with your own hands: 50 photo ideas
Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have sought to equip the workplace as comfortably as possible and, to put it modern language, ergonomically, which was considered a guarantee of not only fast and effective work but also security. In this regard, the premises intended for repair and handmade, were filled with all sorts of tables, racks and drawers, the original material for the manufacture of which was wood. Over time, the cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in the conditions of a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not meet the specified characteristics, and sometimes they are on a par with industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple advice and tell you how to make a wooden workbench with your own hands.
The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench
Regardless of its design features, the workbench is a desktop, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and designed for processing structures and products with the most different dimensions. When designing a carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the workpieces being processed directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, while processing products is practiced as manually, and with the use of power tools - a drill and an electric planer. A typical layout of a standard carpentry workbench consists of the following elements:
- Work surface for the manufacture of which is used massive board, the thickness of which is not less than 60 mm. For the manufacture of the cover, experts advise giving preference to hardwood, such as oak or beech, using which you do not have to periodically change work surface workbench, due to the high wear resistance of the material.
- A vice designed to hold workpieces. They are mounted on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while when choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
- Bench legs are designed to improve stability general design, which are connected by longitudinal strips. For their manufacture, it is desirable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
- In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers designed for tools and any other working accessories.
Joiner's workbench: types of design
When developing a workbench project, it is important to consider it design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be represented by a mobile structure. If you prefer mobile design, optimal solution will facilitate it due to the material used, which should be of a smaller thickness. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible table top as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, there are three types of workbenches:
- Mobile workbench designed for small repair work and manipulations with wood blanks;
- Stationary workbench used for processing solid wood blanks and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but "tied" to one place;
- Collapsible or "workbench-transformer", convenient for its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing its individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. Learn how to do retractable workbench, you can in specialized manuals.
Carpentry or locksmith workbench: differences
In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and locksmith workbenches. Since the creation of a locksmith workbench is fraught with a number of difficulties, in this manual we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.
Dimensions and location of the workbench
In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location for it. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about the electrical outlets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires in working area, preferably included in corrugated pipe or box.
Before proceeding with the construction of the workbench, experts recommend determining its final height. To do this, lower your hands down, after which place your palms parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and the palms is the same desktop height that is most convenient for you. Because homemade workbenches often designed for a single workplace, the length of the table is 1.5 m, and the width is 0.8 m.
How to make a workbench video
How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials
The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the whole work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed to make it. According to experts, for the construction of a workbench optimal material there will be a planed beam, which is suitable for the manufacture of a frame frame and legs.
Ideal dimensions of planed timber:
- for legs - 100x70 mm;
- for jumpers - 100x50 mm;
For countertops, it is better to choose boards 5 cm thick, or a solid canvas, for example, an old one. wooden door or chipboard, characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference hard rock wood such as oak, maple and beech.
How to make a workbench table? Sequencing
The manufacture of a workbench includes several stages, the fundamental of which are:
- Base assembly;
- Tabletop installation;
- Installation of equipment on a workbench.
Base assembly
base as structural element workbench, is wooden frame, the fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the structure meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a horizontally located jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a drawer. Both the jumpers and the tsarga are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the bars are fixed by means of a tenon-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and spikes, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.
If you're building a stationary workbench, one or more of the frame pieces can be attached to the wall, further strengthening the final structure.
Countertop fabrication and installation
- Thinking through the stages of manufacturing a countertop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. From the previously prepared thick boards, a massive shield of the previously indicated dimensions is knocked together, for the fastening of which long nails are used, driven in from the inside of the boards. Used boards are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from entering the existing slots. For the installation of the tabletop, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. To these jumpers, with the help of self-tapping screws, horizontally oriented rails are attached, which are needed to slide the drawers.
- The tabletop is bolted to the base. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars, using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the table top for bolts, the heads of which are recessed in the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the table top. In order to avoid injuries from falling chips in the process of subsequent work, the countertop is polished several times and covered with drying oil.
Equipment installation
- To installed countertop a vice is attached, for the installation of which recesses in the end face of the tabletop should be provided. In the place where the vise is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the countertop. When installing a vice, they are first applied, the place of their fastening is marked, and then fixed with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be located on the edge, which contributes to the displacement of gravity during operation.
- In addition to the vise, the classic equipment for the workbench are wooden clamps, a stationary drill high power, separate types of turning equipment, milling element. In the conditions of a summer residence, it will also be useful to install a grinder and a circular. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to consider all the details of convenience and safety, as well as to check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment is powered by electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of the simultaneously connected equipment, as well as correctly conduct the connection itself.
How to design and make a universal workbench?
This article did not discuss in detail the process of making a locksmith's workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench due to the complexity this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider an option that provides for the combination of metalwork and carpentry workbenches, which is especially important in conditions country houses and plots.
For this, the same workbench is made, as given in the instructions, however, the area of \u200b\u200bthe working surface is slightly increased. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the countertop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin stainless steel, which is fixed with self-tapping screws. AT ideal cover not only upper part countertops, but also its end elements.
