Four ways to fix the bath yourself. How to fix a bath: step by step instructions, simple ways, tips from the masters

1. The upper plane is not level

The design of any bath implies its own bottom slope. That is, the upper edge is set according to the level, while the bottom has its own slope towards the drain. An additional slope is not only unnecessary, but also harmful - in such a bath, the chances of slipping increase.

2. Sewer slope is too small

The height difference of sewer pipes according to SNiPs - for Ф50mm - 3 cm per meter, for Ф110mm - 1.5 cm per meter. If you really strained with height, then the fiftieth pipe can be laid 1.5 cm per meter - the drain will be normal. Checked by the author.

If you make the slope less, then the water will leave slowly. In this case, you have to wait a long time to rinse the bath after washing. Also, foam and dirt will settle on the walls of the bathtub and pipes, which are then more difficult to wash off, and the pipes in general can become completely clogged from this and will have to be cleaned.

3. A corrugation was used to connect the siphon to the sewer

Rigid pipes only, avoiding right angles.

4. The screws for fastening the legs to the tub are tightened on the steel bath

It is no coincidence that the nuts for such screws are made in the form of lambs. They can only be tightened by hand. If you use keys or pliers, then the enamel of the bathtub in the place where the screw is attached is easily shot off and it will be impossible to fix it! So, many years ago, I had to replace one tub with a new one.

5. Used spring pads

Under no circumstances should rubber or similar pads be placed under the legs of the bathtub, as well as under the bottom of the bathtub. If the bath springs on them during operation, then a crack will definitely go between the bath and the wall. And the water will start flowing in.

Steel tubs are supplied with self-adhesive gaskets between tub and legs. They are allowed to be left. Additional spring pads should be avoided.

6. There is no grounding of the bath

According to the norms of SNiP, the bath must be grounded (connected) with an electric wire with a cross section of at least that of the phase wire, with water pipes and an electrical panel.

To ensure reliable contact for cast iron baths, it is enough to wind the wire around the leg adjusting screw and tighten it on both sides with nuts with washers and one lock washer.

This option is not suitable for a steel bathtub, since self-adhesive gaskets isolate the bathtub from the legs. For grounding purposes, the steel bath has special tabs with holes for bolts.

But, almost always, these petals are painted with enamel, like the whole bath. Since the enamel does not pass electric current, it must be carefully removed from the required area before grounding.

This can be done with the help of an angle grinder (grinder), removing the paint at the point of contact. You can also use pliers to slightly bend the petal at the point of contact of the wire, the enamel in this place will “shoot off”. Work, therefore, must be carried out in protective glasses. Then, the junction can be coated with lithol or any other lubricant, or painted to prevent oxidation.

7. Using silicone and flexible corners to design the adjoining bathtub to the tile

Plastic flexible corners installed on the bathtub quickly lose their appearance. The same applies to silicone. According to statistics, on average once a year they will need to be changed. It is better to completely abandon them in favor of adjoining tiles on top and grout. But, if the silicone is good and made in such a way that water does not stagnate on it, then it may well last a long time.

8. Bath pads are not waterproof and not rigid enough.

In 9 cases out of 10, the bathtub has to be raised higher than provided by the factory adjusting screws. If wooden or rubber stands are used for these purposes, then in the first case they can dry out, and in the second case, as mentioned above, the bath will “breathe” and a crack will inevitably form at the junction of the bath to the wall.

9. A tile shelf is not made at the head, but “at the feet”

If the shelf between the bathroom and the wall (along the length) is made not at the head, but “at the feet” (the feet are where the drain is), then when taking a shower, the main stream of water will flow onto this shelf, and possibly from it to the floor. If the slope of the shelf is small, then the water on it will stagnate. If it is large, then it will not be possible to put anything on it.

Conclusion - the shelf at the head is more convenient and practical.

10. The bathtub is sunk too deep into the walls.

If the side of the bath is sunk into the wall along its length to a great depth, then it becomes uncomfortable to sit in this bath - the wall is too close. It is also inconvenient to put various shelves and seats on the bath.

And yes, it doesn't look very pretty.

11. Blocked access to revision.

If a home-made screen is installed on the bath, then it is imperative to provide access to the tub piping. Sometimes you need to clean the siphon or make some other repair.

You can install plastic or metal hatches on magnets. But this option does not look very good. It is best to use built-in secret hatches under the tile. It is also possible to install the tile on 4 magnets, as described.

Leave a comment on this article at the bottom of the page and get a selection of useful tips from Stanislav Plitochkin as a gift:

• How to glue broken plastic products so that they become stronger than new ones.
• The best way to drill a hole in a tile.
• Refinement of the angle grinder, with a cost of 85 rubles and 1 hour of working time, increasing the resource of the angle grinder and the diamond wheel by 2 times.
• How to make beautiful and durable bath coasters from affordable materials.
• How to tighten a drill chuck without a key.
• A pitfall when installing a wall-mounted toilet.

118 comments

Thanks a lot.
Everything is clear and understandable. Learned a lot of useful things. In particular, about the hatch on magnets, preparing pipes for bricking, about grouting sawn tiles.
Thanks again.

Thanks Stanislav for the article!
I agree, silicone often loses its appearance in the first months of use. But here's the paradox - my sister's bathroom was renovated more than 10 years ago - silicone is like new !!! Too bad I don't remember the manufacturer.

• Yes, this is a lucky one. Good silicone plus good ventilation, plus the caring hands of the hostess (I'm sure she often wipes the remaining water dry after using the bath) - the result, of course, will please.

  I am currently preparing material for the installation of bathtubs. There will be a subsection describing the rules for using and caring for the bathroom.

  Gift sent by mail.

I have been decorating for several years and still find something new for myself on your site. Many came to construction not from special schools, but by chance. In many ways, you have to learn on your own or learn from others. Your sai is a great help to those who are still improving their skills and increasing their professional abilities.
About the shelf between the wall and the bathroom, you should pay attention to the location of the tap. Won't water flow onto the shelf, height, won't it get in the way? It is desirable that the bathtub and faucet were already in stock and were on site. This will remove questions and unnecessary pain.

• Thanks for the comment! Yes, Alexander, I didn’t study at the school either, I had to get knowledge from books and in communication with other finishers. But the biggest experience was gained by their own bumps. Now I realize that this is the wrong approach and I strongly recommend that everyone find the right description and study it before work. Moreover, with the Internet it is much easier to do this!
  As for the mixer above the shelf, it is just mentioned in the ninth paragraph of this article. But you are right: for me it goes without saying that the mixer should be located “at the feet” (above the bath drain), but for an inexperienced reader this may not be so obvious. This point will definitely be covered in the instructions.
  Bonuses sent.

1. Oh sure. Water also conducts current, so a potential difference can also arise - it won’t seem enough! In addition to the bath, the plumbing must also be grounded. If the wiring and risers are polypropylene, then grounding can be done for the metal parts of water meters, taps or coarse filters.

Thanks, educational! Right now there is a problem in the choice of linings for the legs of the bathtub ... the bathtub is cast iron, heavy, the legs with adjusting bolts. Can you suggest any way?

• • Thanks for the helpful tips. As for “I liked it or not”, I can say the following: I agree with you that laying bricks is unaesthetic, the second method, which includes pouring pipe trimmings, is certainly interesting and looks good, however, it didn’t suit me, because there is no need to raise the bath high, the length of the native bolts was quite enough for a good drain and for the convenience of using the bath itself. However, if I ever put a bath on “short” legs, I will probably use this method. Personally, I liked and came in handy your advice to use plugs from polypropylene pipes as linings. Very simple, cheap and does not scratch the tile. Just what I need.

    • • Hello! Maybe it's too late to discuss the topic ....
        There are two questions.
        1. Does an acrylic bathtub need to be grounded?
        2. We bought an acrylic corner and a frame for it. The legs are so short that any drain does not fit, the legs are suspended, and the tub is on the drain pipe. And besides, the legs in the center under the bottom of the bath are shorter than those in the corners. Buying high legs is expensive, the frame is expensive ... Can you share a way?
        And yet, maybe everyone has it, the bottom of the bathtub is slightly curved, while the water runs well into the drain, somehow, conveniently on the sides. The husband says that it takes time for it to subside and even out. And I think that the bath should stand rigidly and so that the bottom does not play, which is so conceived

        Hello, Elena!
        It is not necessary to ground the acrylic bath.
        The legs are short - increase them in length. To do this, it is enough to purchase a meter-long stud and couplings of the appropriate diameter. As well as locknuts with lock washers or a thread lock in the form of a paste.
        The second option is to make coasters, which are described in the bonus. But it will be more difficult to install them with an acrylic bathtub - access to the far legs is too difficult.
        The bottom of the bathtub will not bend over time. If it plays, then it is better to organize a support under it in the form of bricks or bars planted on foam.

Thanks for the advice! I am doing a bathroom renovation and am very worried about the results, especially after your article. How many dangers! .I have a problem with the legs of the Rosa cast-iron bathtub. The adjusting bolts included with the legs turned out to be a bit short (due to the box with pipes, you have to lift it higher to move it close to the wall), you need more lining for these bolts. Question - You do not recommend wood and rubber, but what to choose? Paving slabs, metal pads? I already got an oak bar, but something began to doubt. Although Venice stands on oak piles...

I continue to explore the site. Everything is great. Did you have to paste over the steel bath with “Shumka”? What materials did you use and what did you glue? Very relevant, tomorrow I'm picking up the Roca bathtub, I would like to finalize it before installation.
I would like to see how you improved the angle grinder. Thank you!

• Pasted steel bathtubs Caldewey with regular soundproofing, see here:
  I also insulated with mounting foam - it takes 3 cylinders per bath. But, this is the case when the bath is walled up tightly. Tomorrow I will sculpt the usual energy flex on liquid nails. True, it will not be noise insulation, but heat. A good option is car soundproofing. In fact, the more expensive the better...

Please tell me if the tiles on the wall are already laid out to the floor
Do I need to make some kind of recess in the hay under the side of the bath, or can I fix it right next to the tile and make a baseboard?

Good advice, not sucked out of the finger, as is often the case now. A slope of 3 cm per meter is a bit too much in practice - as a result, too much lift is obtained. Thank you!

Thank you for the article! I would also like to get advice from the GURU regarding the rise of regular short legs of the Roca cast iron bath. What is better to use instead of rubber pads? And how is it better to ground it if the drain-overflow is copper, and all pipes are polypropylene?

• Sent a selection, Olga. The answer to the first question is in it. About grounding a cast-iron bath: According to SNIPs, the bath is grounded with a copper wire with a cross section of at least 4 mm2, stretched from the electrical panel. On the same wire risers with hot and cold water are grounded. If the risers are polypropylene, then the wire can be connected to the metal parts of meters or coarse filters using stainless steel clamps. The wire can be connected to the bath itself by tightening it with a bolt in a special eye, and if it is not provided, then by clamping it between the nuts on one of the legs.

What can you tell me about joining an acrylic bathtub to a tile? Manufacturers do not recommend adjoining tiles on top of an acrylic bath, the only way out is silicone or plastic corners.

• You're right, Dimitri. Silicone or plastic corners. But personally, I had a chance three months ago to install an acrylic bathtub with tiles adjoining on top. True, very significant measures were provided for eliminating possible movements of the bath. The junction was sealed with white silicone. I note that replacing the bath will also become much more complicated. But, with careful operation, an acrylic bathtub will quietly last 15 years or more.

Hello Stanislav. I really like your articles, you talk about those important “little things” that allow you to make repairs with pleasure and with high quality. The advice about the hatch on magnets has already been adopted. Simple, and most importantly, aesthetically pleasing. I really look forward to a selection of articles, and I would also like to get access to pages protected by passwords. What needs to be done for this?

• Hello Mamtria! Thanks for the feedback! I will tell you one secret: For any sane comment on any article, I send access to all bonuses and password-protected materials.) If something is missing, write and I will add it. Feel free to ask any questions you may have, I will try to answer all of them.

Good day!
I can't figure out the 3rd point. “3. A corrugation was used to connect the siphon to the sewer
Rigid pipes only, avoiding right angles.”
How can this be implemented? Maybe there is a photo?
What kind of rigid pipe can be used and how is this connection to be maintained in the future?
Thank you in advance.



2. Thank you very much for your advice, it's good that I found your site. I would like to know on what supports, from what material to install just such a bath http://es26.ru/products/6518937 And what gaskets to install under the bottom of the bath. It’s just that the bath was installed a long time ago, by other people, and they didn’t do it very well, I would like to do it wisely.

   • Hello Sergey! I didn’t understand what legs your bathtub has now. If they are relatives, then it’s easy to make good coasters for them and install them. At the same time, fix the bath itself in the way described in this place: .. How to make lining - sent to you by mail. The plastic pads between the legs and the tub that come with the kit are quite good, you don’t need to do anything with them.
     If the legs are not native, then you need to fix the side of the bath, as described above, remove the old legs and install stands from a moisture-resistant gypsum block with a gap of 10 ... 15 mm. Fill the gap with mounting foam, on which the bath will hold well. It is advisable to install the gypsum block at the bottom on tile glue or perlfix. You can do the same from laying bricks on the "edge".

Tell me, the repair was completed 1.5 years ago. Not immediately realized that our repairmen left a "surprise". The drain does not work well in the bath, the water is constantly standing, I don’t understand how to rip everything back now in order to raise the bath.

• Xenia, I sympathize with your grief ... If you are one hundred percent sure that it is a small difference in height, then there is only one way out - to raise the bath. Installing the Sololift system with forced pumping of wastewater - I do not propose - it is difficult and expensive. If relevant, write to the mail - I will give information on the technology of raising the bath.

Good afternoon!
Thank you for the article and honest approach to business.
Soon we will have to raise the cast-iron bath by 6 cm.
They wanted paving slabs. Did you understand from your article that this is not the best option?
Advise, plz., on what to put the legs of the bath.

Hello! Roca bathtub 100×70. The screw legs glide on the porcelain stoneware floor like on ice. What can be substituted? Plugs from polypropylene pipes also slide! !! What can you think of? Yes, I note that the walls are made of PVC panels, i.e. do not attach a bath to them. Thank you in advance for your response.




3. Hello! We bought a Roca cast-iron bathtub with an anti-slip coating, but very short legs of 8 cm are included with it ... Tell me, please, what can I put? I thought that I could use rubber or silicone anti-vibration pads for a washing machine or wooden squares from a pine floorboard, but from the information on your website, I realized that this is not desirable ...

   • • Hello! The situation is similar with the Roca bathroom. "Specialists" installed on scraps of plywood. They turned on the heating and after a month the bath sank. Could you tell me, please, how can I replace the plywood coasters?

       • Stands are made from pvc sewer pipe scraps filled with sand concrete. Details in the collection that I sent you by mail.

Hello! To install a bathroom close to the wall, a cast-iron pipe interferes, the master advised replacing it with metal-plastic, installing it on the floor, thereby completely hiding it. The master suggests changing the pipe only in the bathroom, which is smaller in diameter than cast iron. I am concerned about the safety of the heating system and the room will be warm enough and the circulation throughout the house will not be damaged. Waiting for your reply. Thank you!

Hello!
I plan to install a cast-iron bathtub on a tile, but I'm worried that under its legs a corner of the tile may crack or break off due to the possible entry of the legs into the voids.
Please advise how best to remove the point load from the legs, preferably at the same time slightly raising the bath (so that the drain is better).
Thanks in advance!

• Greetings, Alexey! You can remove the point load by using the pads, which I described in the bonus sent to you. The second option is to put paving slabs under the legs. They come in different thicknesses and configurations. But most importantly, the voids under the tile can be easily calculated by simply tapping the tile with a pencil. If there is a void, the sound will immediately change. So perhaps your concern is unfounded.

Hello! Advise on the best way to proceed: an acrylic bathtub with legs was installed, because of the flexibility of acrylic, the grout quickly fell out, after which it was decided to make waterproofing with silicone sealant, but it also did not last long. Is there an option to reinforce the bath and remove this flexibility without dismantling the bath and how best to seal the seam.

• Hello Ivan! A familiar problem. The edges of the acrylic bath are pressed through when pressed, and this is the main disadvantage of these baths. How to defeat him? - In accessible places, the bend of the bath rim can be drilled to the wall. In inaccessible - I can offer to slip a stick, or better - a duralumin square under the side of the bath and spread it to the floor. It is not easy to do this, but it is possible. You can increase the pressure with linings.
  The seam can be sealed with a two-component automotive putty for metal. But this is only if you are sure that the wall is strong enough, dry and dust-free. For example, - heavy concrete or tile. But if there is gypsum plaster on the wall, then it is better to go through a good acrylic primer first and dry it.
  Bonus sent.

Hello, I have the same problem as mentioned above. It is necessary to raise the cast-iron bath by 5 cm. I made a mistake during installation,
wedged the legs to the bath, i.e. it will be difficult to get them out. 2 put small blocks under the legs, which dried up over time. As a result of this, the side cracked and the grout cracked.
now I want to lift the bath with 2 jacks, lift the bath a little, pull out the bars and put metal plates under them.
I want to drill the plates and insert 2 bolts so that this structure can be lifted along with the bathtub.
please tell me what is better to put under the bolt head so that the tile does not break.
thank you and good luck

• Hello Timur! Under the heads of the bolts, in your case, you can substitute circles of a suitable size, cut from a duralumin corner or plate. Any durable waterproof material is suitable: copper, stainless steel, textolite, getinaks, polycarbonate. If I understand correctly, then the bath leg will rest on a plate into which two bolts are screwed head down. But such a design would be very unstable. Three bolts are required for stability. Apparently, you are a hardworking person. In a good way. But here I would advise you not to complicate the solution of the problem in this way. It will be enough for you to raise the bathtub with a jack and place the stands under the legs, the description of which I have already sent you. Since the grout over the side of the bath has already cracked, there is no particular need to return the bath to its original position - you still have to clean the cracked grout and wipe it with a new one. But the risk of damaging the tile when jacking up or squeezing out with bolts is quite large. Therefore, it is better not to try to lift the bath, but simply to support it with a jack to remove the load from the legs. Then do not pull out the bars, but split them with a chisel and a hammer. Next, install the manufactured coasters under the legs and, if necessary, substrates in the form of coins or fragments of a paint knife blade.

  • Grout means you just need to embroider where it is cracked or clean it completely? and wipe over with a new one?
    I impregnated it with a water-repellent grout, do you think the new grout will lay down? although it has been about 3 years, probably this impregnation has already washed off)

    • There is no particular difference. If the grout is not too difficult to clean out, then it is better, of course, to clean it all off and rub it with a new one. But you can also embroider and overwrite. It should be borne in mind that the new grout and the old one will differ in shade. The grout should lie normally on the impregnation. It’s just always better to put the grout not in a thin layer, but with a depth of at least 2mm. That way she'll hold on better.

Good afternoon, and I would also like to get advice from you regarding the rise of regular short legs of the Roca cast-iron bathtub and its reliable fastening in conditions that tiles on the floor and walls are already everywhere.
The bath was installed, but these legs do not inspire any confidence for some reason. Thanks in advance.

• Good day! Roca's short legs have adjusting screws that can be replaced with longer ones. Or use the coasters that are described in the letter sent to you.

Hello. Thanks for your valuable advice. Short and to the point. Learned a lot. Just dismantled the old bath and now I'm trying to put it back. But there's a problem. The bathroom consists of plaster walls - this is a panel of the 9th floor. The walls at the junction of the bath turned into gray powder in separate sections, and as I understand it, this is the reaction of plaster to water. Now I don’t know how to “restore” these sections of the walls in order to give them the original geometry of the walls, in the sense of what materials specifically. can you advise how to repair the plaster walls of the bathroom, taking into account the possible ingress of water into these areas in the future? Can you also recommend a sanitary anti-mold sealant, including one on which mold does not really grow? And then many manufacturers write on sealants that they are from mold, but apparently the mold cannot read and grows well on these sealants. Thank you.

• Hello Roman! Thanks for the good question. About the plaster. Don't worry too much, this is fixable. First, exfoliate everything that is pouring, and then dry it. Next, walk along the walls with liquid glass, directly with a brush or roller, so that as much as possible is absorbed. If it seems that it is poorly absorbed, dilute it a little with water. When dry, you can go through again. This is the best primer and waterproofing. Just be careful - after drying, liquid glass cannot be cleaned from tiles and faience. Next, plaster the walls with any plaster, dry, prime with a regular primer or again with liquid glass. The ingress of water on the walls through the tiles, if the tiles are properly laid and rubbed, is excluded. So don't worry about that. But about the mold, this is a very important point. You correctly said that sealant manufacturers are hanging noodles on the ears of buyers. I personally have not seen such a sealant that can completely defeat the fungus. Here you need to approach strategically - to eliminate the cause of the appearance of the fungus. The most popular reason is the tightness of the bath room. That is, they put a door with a threshold or a minimum clearance between the canvas and the floor, and then they wait for the bath to be ventilated by a fan. But if there is nowhere for air to flow in, then the humidity will not go anywhere, and no fan will help here. It is also necessary to check the hood - whether it works well. There is another reason for humidity in the bathroom - condensation on the walls. If the wall borders the street or the entrance, then condensation will also constantly appear on it. To avoid this phenomenon, it is necessary to insulate the wall or provide additional heating.

  I can say about sealants that they often turn black over time due to the fact that they are applied with a “failure”, that is, a groove forms in the corner between the sink and the wall, in which water stagnates. In such cases, mold is, of course, inevitable. In general, the conclusion is simple - the main enemy of mold is dryness, and we must strive to ensure it by all means.
  Sent a collection.

Cast iron bath 70 by 170 very dubious regular legs, do I need to additionally strengthen the bath, insure? Is there a replacement for such legs and can the bolts be replaced with longer ones of another metal?

• Can I get a photo of those stock legs? Until now, only fairly reliable ones have been met, except that the thread is not cut through to the end or goes wrong. The bath is strengthened automatically, when bricked up under the tile. The screws can of course be replaced. But you should not get carried away with the length, because, with a misaligned thread, you get a large lever arm to break this leg. Another metal - do you mean more durable and moisture resistant? - Then of course yes!

Good article, thanks. I have a question about the legs of cast-iron bathtubs and linings for them. Novokuznetsk cast-iron bathtubs "Universal" have adjustable legs with bolts at the end. Is it possible to install their bathtub 70x170 simply on the heads of these bolts (as by default and apparently calculated), these faceted hats are about 13-15 mm in diameter (I don’t remember exactly, maybe 10mm, but somewhere like that), the tile is not crack? Or do I need to add something wider?
Tile 43x43x9 mm

• By and large, you can leave the bolt heads - they will not push through the tile if it is well laid, and there are no voids under it. There is one small nuance - these bolts are black, not covered with anything and will rust over time - accordingly, the view will not be very neat. It is possible to substitute plugs for polypropylene pipes of a suitable diameter under these hats. They cost a penny, but they are quite durable and water resistant. There is one more thing with these bolts: very often the bolts of the front legs (near the drain) have to be unscrewed to the maximum so that the bend of the siphon does not rest on the floor. At the same time, the rear bolts turn out to be short, since the bottom has a slope towards the drain hole. In this case, you will have to purchase new bolts, longer ones. So, going to the store, you can immediately kill all the birds with one stone: buy 4 polypropylene plugs, galvanized bolts, nuts with washers for them, and, as a highlight on the cake, four lock washers, which will not be superfluous for such a responsible connection.
  Well, or just use the footrests described in the letter sent to you.

Good afternoon!
What should be the minimum length gap to install a steel bath?
I plan to install Roca Swing 180 × 80, after laying the “niche” tiles it turned out to be exactly 180 cm.
Will I be able to “shove the unshoveable”?
And if it makes any real practical sense to look for specimens rare on the market with a steel thickness of 3.5 mm instead of the usual 2.4 mm, or is it enough to glue a vibroisol to eliminate the rumble of water?

• Good day, Vladislav! Yes, you are right, it will be difficult to insert such a bath. The fact is that its upper edge is not sharp, like a cast-iron bath, but has the shape of a rectangle, which, when lowered diagonally, will be longer than just the upper edge. For your dimensions, we have the length of this diagonal: √ (1800² + 40²) \u003d 1800.44. Subtract from it the length of the bath -1800 and get 1800.44-1800 = 0.44 mm. Hmm ..., probably, such an excess can be neglected, for sure it fits into the measurement error. Here you have to hope for luck. Otherwise, you will have to remove a row of tiles from one end of the bath or cut a groove in the tile under the edge of the bath, which is a very delicate job, and not every specialist can do it.
  I do not observe a fundamental difference in the thickness of the walls of the bath. A normal aerator on the mixer plays a much larger role. And yes, vibroizol is quite an appropriate thing.

Good afternoon! Very informative article and just in time for me! I'm about to redecorate my bathroom! Can you please tell me how to properly install an acrylic bath: before tiling or after? The biggest concern is the gap between the tile and the bathroom. I don’t want it to turn yellow, I also don’t want the corners. How to be? Thanks

• Good afternoon, Natalia! It is better to put the tile on the bath, such an adjoining is more technological. Then this corner can be asked to be hone or grouted. If you want the corner to not lose its appearance longer, then it is better to use a two-component epoxy-based grout.
  Be warned, most acrylic bathtubs have negative sloped corners and need to be raised to keep water from stagnating in them.

Add another error. I brought a 50mm pipe out of the wall under the drain exactly in the center of the bath, where the bath has a drain hole. I did not take into account that the siphon looks like a drain anywhere, but not at the wall, because the overflow interferes there. Now I'll have to trace around the 45 degree corners. Moreover, all the decent siphons that I looked at do not make it possible to connect to the drain in a straight line, they mean that the drain will be to the side, and not strictly in the center. And one more question. I have an angle of 50mm 90deg in the wall, followed by a sunbed 2.5m with a slope of 1.5, then a tee 135deg and a riser. Otherwise it just won't fit. And in the direction of the bath from this angle of 90 degrees, I will have 5 cm of pipes, an angle of 45, 10 cm of pipes, an angle of 45, then a siphon (siphon outlet 50 mm). Forecast? How bad will water drain through this entire structure? To redo it is necessary to disassemble the GKL on the frame: (

• Your slope is normal, the water will leave well. Too many corners, of course, but that's okay. Anyway, the U-shaped siphon of the bath has a worse throughput, and the flow rate will be determined by it. If you have a U-shaped siphon, and you want to maximize the speed of draining water, then you need to get rid of the 90-degree angles, replacing them with two 45-degree corners.
  Regarding the withdrawal of the sewer from the wall along the axis of the bathroom. That's right, it's the wrong location. The overflow, however, can always be turned a little to the side (the connecting tube allows you to do this), but in a straight line the siphon almost never gets into the sewer pipe and you have to arrange an equilibrium study.
  The article lists eleven errors, but in fact there are, of course, many more. I tried to write instructions for installing bathtubs - I got over 120 pages, with photos and pictures, it's true, but it's still a lot. Although twenty years ago such an instruction would have been very useful to me ...

Hello Stanislav. It is very opportune for me that I found your very useful site. I have to install a shower with high sides (that is, an acrylic bathtub below) in the bathroom. But the trouble is, the height from the floor to the bottom of the sewer pipe (d = 50) in the wall is 9.5 cm, and from the floor to the bottom of the bath is only 10.5 cm. very small height difference due to which there will be stagnation of water in the bath! What kind of solid coasters should be used under the legs of the bath (there are 12 of them, the diameter of each support is 38mm)? Which siphon and angles should I use for maximum drain speed?

• Greetings, Igor! Twelve legs is a lot. It is necessary to raise the pallet, though there will be a gap between the screen and the floor. But it, with a certain ingenuity, can be laid out with mosaic tiles. Stands in your case can be either described in the bonus sent to you, or in the form of polypropylene sleeves of the appropriate diameter. Or from a polypropylene pipe cut into the desired height of the stand. Try to raise the pallet to a height that is a multiple of the whole number of mosaic tiles.
  The siphon is best used with a gentle curve, but it has a large height, which in your case may not be acceptable. Angles for draining - it is advisable to avoid 90 degrees - it is better to set two to forty-five.

Good afternoon. Thank you for your materials and experience, I emphasized a lot of useful things for myself. In a week I will put the Roca cast-iron bath, I have already bought it. The entire bathroom is already tiled. So I broke my whole head, how to put it correctly so that it does not slip. I am considering the option with washers for adjusting bolts, or brass plugs, as you suggest. It is interesting to know if there are any other ways besides those indicated. Well, I would also like to read a selection of your useful tips.

• I sent a selection, Vadim, good evening!) Let the bath slide, it's okay. It is only important, at the time of alignment, to fix it with wedges between the walls. Then you can safely concrete.

Hello! Please tell me the solution to this problem. There is an acrylic bathtub on a factory framework. The bathroom is already tiled and the distance between the walls is about 90mm larger than the bathtub. At the same time, the bathtub seems to be deformed by a “screw”. When it is full, then everything is fine, the legs are on the tile, everything is even. If the water is drained, then the bath begins to stagger and the difference in its position relative to the seams of the tile is visible. I plan to disperse the gap and foam the filled bath on both sides. Will it hold up?

• I wouldn't recommend doing that. On the faucet side, you then have to make a shelf of tiles, this is extra work, and not very practical in terms of water running off during the shower. It will be enough to draw water and pull the sides of the bath to the walls with powerful screws.

  • Greetings! Sorry for the delay in answering, there were technical reasons .. Faucet at the end of the bath - no problem, as long as you are comfortable. Quite beautiful.

Hello, please send me possible options for linings for a cast-iron bathtub by mail. We are doing repairs, laid tiles, put a bath on it. But there is a fear that the bath will push through the tiles. Are you saying that you can put plugs from polypropylene pipes, but they will not slip on the tile? Or is the tub so heavy that it won't slip? Help me please!

• Hello Alena! Yes, the plugs will slide. This is convenient for installing a bathtub, but after installation, the bathtub must be firmly fixed. I hope that you slightly deepen the edge of the bath into the wall so that the tile stands on the very bump of the curvature of the edge. In this case, after smearing the gap with the desired solution, the bath is securely walled up and no additional measures are required. In addition, a properly made shelf between the bathtub and the wall at the headboard will also additionally fix the bathtub. Just in case, I am sending you a description of the substrates, as well as a number of other useful tips for repairs. Good luck!

Hello, I'm going to change the cast iron bath to acrylic. A thin heating pipe runs under the edge of the bathtub. Is it possible to allow the surface of the acrylic bath rim to come into contact with the pipe? If not, what would you recommend. You are a very good source of such information. Great article about 11 mistakes. The repair did not start, but I already foresaw the jambs for myself) Thank you in advance.

• Thank you Sergey for your kind words! My opinion about the pipe is that it is better to provide a gap, at least 5mm, so that the pipe does not touch the acrylic. Still, polymers under the influence of high temperatures age faster. In general, I would like to clarify what kind of pipe it is. Once I came across a similar one, but that pipe was behind a false wall, and its role was to warm up the street wall, to which the bathtub adjoined. We even considered demolishing the false wall and leaving the pipe under the edge of the bathtub, like yours. But then they reasoned that the wall above the bath would not be warmed up by convection, and condensation would very likely appear on it. Therefore, it was decided to leave the false wall.
  As thermal insulation, K-flex tape, or any suitable material, can be wound on the pipe. Even a cut electric corrugation of the desired diameter will do.

  >>>But you are right: for me it goes without saying that the faucet should be located “at the feet” (above the bathtub drain), but for an inexperienced reader it may not be so obvious.

  It turns out that the shelf should be on the opposite side of the drain?

Are you planning a major renovation of your apartment? Then the bathroom will require special attention. In addition, the choice of sanitary solutions today is as diverse as possible - acrylic baths, cast iron, metal. And everywhere there is a wide choice of various shapes, colors, sizes. Installing your bathtub can take place in different ways. It depends on the material, and on other characteristics, such as shape, size, installation location. In order for the correct installation of the bathtub to be performed efficiently, special knowledge and special professional skills are needed. Therefore, you will be absolutely right if you contact a specialist in this field.

However, some aspects do not hurt to know in advance

What you need to know at the preparatory stage

Bathroom renovation begins with the main questions: “what to put”, “where to put” and “how to put”. First of all, you need to decide how to install a bath, establish and regulate water supply and sewerage. And also, align horizontal and vertical surfaces. Experts recommend tiling walls and floors. How to install a bath in an apartment? The easiest way to work is when a new bathtub is installed in place of the previous design. But if you started a global rearrangement of plumbing fixtures in the bathroom, then you need to correctly arrange all the water inlets and outlets and calculate the installation options. Most likely, you can not do without plumbing here.

How to properly install a bath? It is desirable to put it at an angle, depending on the place of the drain. This will ensure complete drainage of the water. Any plumber will explain to you that, otherwise, the water (albeit in small quantities) stagnates, and this leads to the appearance of all the hated "yellow spots".

About how to properly place the bath, depending on the shape? For angular and rectangular models - your preferences. But the main thing is that the assembled structure should not interfere with the approach to important communications and valves.

Installations of different types of baths

Consider the most popular options for installing a bathtub. The easiest way is to install a cast-iron bath. This bath is very heat-resistant, the water in it stays warm longer. In addition, it has excellent soundproofing characteristics. And, of course, very heavy. But this is even a plus, because due to its gravity, the bath does not require additional experiments with the installation. With the help of a specialist, choose a bath of the right size - and go ahead. As for the dimensions, the main thing is not to miscalculate, otherwise you will have to adjust the walls or reduce the sides of the bath.

A steel bath has thinner walls. By the way, that's why when water pours, we hear a loud sound. The lack of such a bathtub will immediately be felt by a person whose dimensions cannot be called miniature. The fact is that under the weight of a heavy host or a large amount of water, the metal itself will most likely begin to sag and can damage the enamel.

That is why the correct installation of the bathroom is important. To prevent deflections, the installation of a bath and finishing are accompanied by the installation of an additional foundation. Alternatively, lay bricks under the bottom and fill the free space with mounting foam. Less commonly, but still used, is a technique with sand: the bath itself is inserted into a container filled with sand. In such cases, the curvature of the metal can be avoided.

For your information: The walls of acrylic bathtubs do not withstand heavy loads. Professionals recommend putting it on a metal base. Or reinforce the stability with mounting foam. In addition, additional connections to the wall are also required.

It is better to install the bathroom as close as possible to the wall. Where the wall connects to the edges of the bath, good-quality waterproofing is needed. Professionals advise using a special tape, all kinds of putties and skirting boards (better, of course, ceramic, not plastic).

As we can see, the ways of installing a bath can be different. And everywhere there are professional nuances.

Installing a bathtub in a bathroom is usually done by a professional. Or at least in his presence. It will be difficult to do this on your own. Only a representative of a company of the appropriate profile will be able to give you a guarantee of a quality installation. Or recommendations on how to properly install the bathroom.

Basic installation rules

Like any other professional, a plumber knows by heart the control rules for installing a bathtub and installation requirements. Let's consider some of them:

• According to SNiP standards (building codes and regulations), the surface on which the bathroom structure is installed must be perfectly flat. It is recommended to pre-tile the floor;
• In order to protect the bath from damage as much as possible, its installation takes place last, that is, when the rest of the repair work has already been completed;
• Not only the place for installing the bath is selected in advance, but also the height of the structure. It should be taken into account whether the tile will be placed under the bathtub and which one, whether the font will stand on the floor or on a special podium, etc.;
• Every professional will tell you that the installation parts included in the kit are not always ideal for a particular design. For example, you bought a tub made of thin steel. After some time, the enamel near the legs will most likely crack. Here you should be aware of alternative fastener options - special corners with a lining.
• Designer models are usually equipped with attractive legs. Therefore, the task of how to install your new bath is much easier to solve. Here it is enough to buy the bath itself, put it on a flat floor and connect it to the sewer system;
• Otherwise, you may need to build a brick "foundation".

Even these examples are enough to entrust the installation of a bathtub to a qualified installer. You can make not just a base for a bath, but complete its lining.

Work order

If you briefly answer the question "how to install a new bath", in response you will hear a list of actions. So, the installation order of the bath looks something like this:

• floor preparation;
• calculation of dimensions and alignment of the bath with respect to height;
• installation of a siphon, its connection to the sewerage;
• installation of the structure;
• tightness check;

But this is clearly not enough for a complete understanding of how to properly install the bathroom. That is why we do not recommend experimenting with such painstaking work. Especially if you do not have practical experience in repairing bathrooms.

When buying a bath, be sure to check the availability of documents, such as installation instructions and a quality certificate. In production documents, for example, it is indicated what the slope of the bath should be.

So, what exactly do we need for a quality bathtub installation? Mandatory assembly kit: screwdrivers and gas wrenches, hacksaw, chisel and hammer, pliers, perforator. As well as electrical tape, mounting foam, sealant, cement, corrugated drains and funnels.

Features of installing a steel bath

A lightweight model, unlike a cast iron bath, requires a solid installation. How to put a bath? Be sure to attach it to the walls. Otherwise, the bath will not be as stable as possible. Installing a bathtub on a tile is inappropriate here. The bathtub is placed even before the tiling and is regulated by additional supports. Self-adhesive pads are the best option. If you use bolts, you can damage the bathroom enamel.

• The preparatory stage is not much different from installing a cast iron bath. Just before you install the bathroom, do not lay the tiles. The installation of pipes relative to the mixing system is not carried out outside, but in the wall;
• It's no secret that the question of how to assemble a bath begins with the construction of a support. Assembling a bathtub requires laying plumbing upside down. The first support is made near the drain hole, the second - closer to the opposite edge. The main thing is to mount on a flat surface. Leveling the channel with a hammer will put the support to the bath as much as possible. Where the bath will come into contact with the overlays, alcohol treatment is carried out (acetone can be used). Before removing the protective film from the pads, warm them up with a hair dryer;

Important: The bath should be brought into the room vertically, holding it by the sides (do not take it by the legs!).

• As soon as the bath is in its place, the height is adjusted. How to level a bath? Wedges are driven in between the sides of the plumbing and the walls (they will be removed a little later). All gaps are filled with mounting foam. If suddenly you get dirty with foam, you should clean it off immediately, since then it will be impossible to do this. After foam pouring, the wedges are pulled out;
• We do tile pasting close to the bath. Cover the plumbing with a film so as not to stain or scratch it. The junction of the bathroom and the tile is processed with a grout of a waterproof structure or silicone. The fact is that the mounting foam allows water to pass through.

Follow the installation sequence of the bath specified in the documents.

Features of installing an acrylic bathroom

In fact, the technology for installing a bath is not much different from that discussed above. Only the supports cling not with bolts, but with screws. The space between the screws and the bottom is filled with mounting foam. If suddenly the device does not have production recesses for supports, use a drill. It is very important not to break through the bath.

A particularly popular solution is the installation of a corner bath. Such plumbing is usually sold complete with a plastic screen, which is mounted after the completion of the main installation work. The screen is installed with a gap of about 2-3 mm.

We have a dedicated video tutorial on this topic on our website. And also the scheme of installation of the bath.

Bathroom tiles

Installing a bathtub under the tile is the best solution to the question of how to make the bathtub stable. Such material is rightfully considered more hygienic and practical. For tiling the bath itself, you can not do without installing a screen. And you can tile absolutely any bath. This cladding will be very harmonious in the bathroom interior. And, most importantly, it has maximum stability in the form of a special connection with the floor. A tile screen can be built of brick or cement.

How to put a bathtub on tiles

Let's say you already have good floor tiles in your bathroom. How to install a bath on a tile? To put the bathroom on a sliding base, you will need to secure the base with a waterproof polymer adhesive. In order not to scratch the tile, experts recommend dressing the legs of the bath in plastic tips.

To learn more about how to install a bathtub on a tile, you can see photos, videos on our website. We have also prepared detailed instructions for you.

Important installation details

• The legs are attached to the bathtub so that the outlet element of the siphon can easily flow into the sewer pipe. If your siphon is made of cast iron, then you will need to screw a steel tube into it;
• The bath must be installed with a slope;
• It is important to take into account the parallelism of the sides of the bath relative to the floor;
• How to hermetically install a bathtub? The sealing of the joints is subject to a mandatory check. Small spaces between the wall and the plumbing board should be cemented with a triangular notch. And on the outer surface, apply a layer of acrylic paint;
• The tightness of the places where the bathtub and the sewer system come into contact is also a must!
• If the installation of the bath is not against the wall, but in the center of the room, sealing the edges of the bath is not important at all;
• Large gaps are filled with a brick, plastic plate or pipe with a special sealing layer;
• It is also recommended to connect the bath to an electricity normalization system. This connection is made by a professional installer with copper wire or steel strip;
• Before using new plumbing, it is worth pouring about 10 liters of water into it. First hot, then cold;
• The installation of a new whirlpool bathtub obliges to follow the supply of additional communications.

Conclusion

Such subtle technical points once again prove the need for the intervention of professionals. They will explain to you in an accessible and understandable way how best to install a bath. For example, hot tubs are so difficult to install that a non-specialist will simply not be able to cope with the installation of such a luxurious bath.

You can only tell the plumbers about your preferences, for example, where is the best place to install a bathtub. How to hide the visibility of pipes and wires. On these topics, professional installers will also give you a couple of useful tips.

It is difficult to imagine life without taking a hot bath. Water procedures invigorate and at the same time relax the human body. If the bath installed in your house / apartment has already served its time, then, of course, it will have to be replaced. Bathtubs made of steel are in the greatest demand today. From this article, you will learn that installing a steel bath with your own hands is quite within the power of everyone.

Due to its massiveness, a cast-iron bath will stand securely, no matter how you install it. The same cannot be said about the steel bath. When installing it, it is important to make sure that it adjoins the walls on three sides. In this case, it will stand securely, and it will be safe to carry out water procedures in it.

Adjustable feet

When buying a bathtub, adjustable supports are included in the package. There are several types of supports, the safest support with a self-adhesive pad. This is especially true in cases where the manufacturer has provided fasteners on the tie bolts. When tightened or loaded at the attachment points, the enamel may peel off. Just for this purpose, a self-adhesive overlay is intended, which levels the load. In their form, the supports resemble a channel. They have adjustment screws with plastic tips.

The best fasteners are those with short supports and long bolts.

Installation of a bathtub on bricks

Due to its low weight, the steel bath is unstable. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of the manufacture of additional support. The ideal option would be a laid out frame made of bricks. In the future, this support will be tiled, so it will not spoil the appearance of the bathroom as a whole. When laying out the bricks, it is necessary to leave a window through which it will be possible to clean or replace the siphon. In this window it will be necessary to install a decorative door.

You can install a steel bathtub without much effort. The process itself is quite simple and does not require special knowledge in construction. For you to succeed, closely adhere to the guidance outlined in this article.

The first step is to prepare a place for installation. At this stage, there should be outlets for water and sewer pipes. should be carried out close to the wall.

Next, carry out the fastening of the supports. To do this, turn the bath upside down. Under it, you need to put soft material or packing cardboard. The first support is fixed as close as possible to the outlet. The other support is located as close as possible to the opposite end of the tub. At the same time, it should not be displaced from a flat surface of the bottom. To prevent displacement, it is necessary to straighten the carrier channel. But do it not in the bath, but on the side.

If the supports of the bathtub you purchased have a self-adhesive surface, then it is recommended to treat the gluing place with alcohol or acetone. The mounting plate must be firmly pressed against the bottom surface. As a result, the support will hold very securely.

If you want to remove the protective film from the surface of the bath, use a hair dryer to do this. After warming up the film a little, it can be easily removed and no residues will remain on the surface of the product.

Threaded adjusting studs should be hammered into the plastic tip until they stop. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the thread. Next, take the nuts that come with the supports, and screw them onto the stud. After that, lower the nuts to the tip and screw the studs so that they fall into place in the supports.

If your bathroom is narrow, then the supports should be assembled directly in it. When transferring the bath, hold on to its edges, but in no case by the legs.

Having installed the bath on supports, it remains to align it in height and level. To do this, you can use the building level, which you lay on the side of the bath. Do not put the level on the bottom, as it is initially filled so that there is a sufficient flow of water into the sewer. At the end of the installation, there may be a small gap between the wall and the bathtub. It should be sealed with sealant or foam. If you installed the bath on a pre-laid brick frame, then you just have to lay the tiles. If you have not resorted to such technology, then you can mount a protective screen. Given this, you can use a different technology for installing a bath. Screw metal hooks into the wall. Do all your measurements first. In the end, it remains just to put the bath on the hooks. With this technology, make sure that the legs are firmly on the floor.

It is also necessary to install a drain siphon. The scheme of its assembly is offered by the manufacturer. It remains for you to assemble the siphon design with the help of union nuts. On request, soundproofing and insulation of the bath is performed. For this, ordinary mounting foam is used. Apply it to the bottom and side outer walls. Depending on the size of the tub, you will need 4-5 bottles of foam.

To all of the above, it is worth adding a few nuances that must be considered during installation. The first nuance concerns the installation height. There are no special standards here. However, the choice of height will depend on the installation method you choose. If you are using factory supports and want to install a screen, then there are two standards: the height from the floor to the edge of the bath is 55 cm or 65 cm. Remember that the steel bath is covered with an enameled layer of paint. And if carelessly handled with it, then it can be harmed. So don't rush to install.

So, you have learned how to install a steel bath with your own hands. As you can see, the process is quite simple. You are required to have a desire, and in the course of work you will deal with all the questions that arise. If you have experience installing steel bathtubs, then write comments at the end of this article.

Video

Learn more about steel bath installation from the provided video:

A photo

From the photos provided, you can clearly see the intricacies of installing a steel bath with your own hands:

The arrangement of the bathroom begins with the choice of plumbing. Most often, when performing repair work, they prefer to install bathtubs from such materials:

Cast iron- traditional material for bathtubs. Such baths are quite expensive, but durable. They are very difficult to install, so now cast iron equipment is losing popularity. Such plumbing is uneconomical: a bathtub is quite expensive. Of the other shortcomings - it warms up for a long time and cools down quickly.

Steel baths- inexpensive, easy to install, but they can not be called durable. Warm up quickly, cool down quickly. Experts advise putting them in small apartments. Faience and glass bathtubs are too fragile compared to the rest.

Acrylic sanitary ware has gained great popularity due to its low price, light weight, economy and ease of use (warms up quickly, cools down slowly). The average life of such baths is fifteen to twenty years.

Bathroom connection diagram

In addition, for bathrooms of different shapes, bathtubs of different geometries are chosen. The traditional shape is oval, but now round baths are gaining popularity. In large apartments and houses, even polygonal bathtubs are installed.

Related video: Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation. Bathtub installation, bathtub extension with a shelf and installation of a screen under the bathtub

If the choice is made in favor of acrylic plumbing, then the installation of equipment can be done independently. You need to watch a video with step-by-step instructions and read the technical information - this way you will get acquainted with the steps of the procedure and learn about the difficulties that you may encounter when installing equipment in the bathroom.

Basic rules for storing a bathtub or sink

If, after purchasing acrylic plumbing, repairs are not started immediately, then you need to follow the basic storage rules:

• it is not necessary to remove the packaging material until the start of work
• it is forbidden to put foreign objects into empty plumbing
• equipment must be securely fastened, not wobble

To prevent the surface of plumbing from being scratched, it is important to ensure that construction debris does not fall on it.

Preparatory work for self-installation of an acrylic bath

Experts advise finishing the walls after installing the bath - this will reduce the risk of mold. The floor must be level. Also, if you are installing a cast iron bath, then remember that the floor must be very durable. Otherwise, it may simply not withstand the weight.

Installation is carried out on special legs, but for better stability, it is necessary to install an additional frame made of metal or brick. With some baths, additional structures are included, but if they are not, then it is best to make a substrate of bricks, foam blocks or wooden beams.

Before starting work on the installation of the substrate, it is necessary to mark the projection intended for draining on the bathroom floor.

Scheme of installing a bathroom on a brick

Traditional options for a reliable substrate:

• a solid masonry substrate is mounted under the entire acrylic bath or sink structure. To calculate the height of the substrate, it is necessary to leave about three centimeters of masonry for the installation of a polyurethane foam cushion
• brick pillars and cement pad

Step by step installation

To install a bath with your own hands, you will need cement, bricks, mounting foam, a hammer, a fork wrench, silicone sealant, electrical tape. You need to do the following:

• prepare a waterproofed platform of the required height
• carry out work on the installation of a reliable frame
• install plumbing equipment, having previously prepared it for installation
• carry out the necessary finishing work

If you follow this sequence of actions, the installation of the bath will be done correctly and quickly enough.

How to connect a sink or bathtub to the sewer

Many are concerned about the procedure for installing a bath, especially the installation of a sewer outlet. If you are afraid that you will not be able to connect the bath yourself, contact the experts. But if you figure out how to properly release water, then you can connect a sink or bathtub quickly enough. To better understand the process, it is helpful to watch tutorial videos online.

When connecting plumbing equipment to the sewer, you must perform the following steps:

• at a minimum distance it is necessary to install a water outlet
• install the siphon, connecting it to the sewer pipe before installation
• lay a rubber sleeve in the sewer pipe, lay the siphon pipe
• before mounting the coupling, grease it on both sides with silicone sealant
• install a sink or bath

Photo of installing a bath on bricks

Before work, make sure that the nozzle and pipe are dry. This is important for good sealing.

How to install a corner bath

Corner baths are often installed in small apartments. Despite the unusual design, installing a bathtub is a fairly simple process. To independently perform the installation of a corner bath made of acrylic, you must have certain knowledge and skills. The steps of the procedure are not much different from installing a traditional bath.

Photo of preparatory work

To install a corner bath, you must perform the following steps:

• set up a communication system
• straighten bathtub legs
• create a wireframe
• perform equipment installation

The installation of a corner-type bath (unlike a traditional bath) must be carried out on a combined substrate made of special legs built into the brick base.

If the bath has electrical options, a grounded socket must be installed. Often, when installing such plumbing, soundproofing is also carried out. Special material is placed between the bath and the floor.

Photo of bathtub installation and cladding

Often, when replacing plumbing in the bathroom, you have to change other equipment. It is best to do this at the same time so as not to damage communications and finishes.

Source: repair.youdo.com

Related video:

Acrylic and steel bath installation

We bring the bath into the room vertically sideways, holding the edge of the bath with one hand, and the previously installed supporting leg with the other. We install it in a permanent place, moving it close to the walls, adjust it in level, check the strength and reliability of fixation so that the bath does not “dance”. Next, the siphon is connected to the bathroom and sewage, sealing and sealing all places of possible leaks. Only after that, you can start lining the walls with ceramic tiles, after which, the legs are tightened to the stop.

Sometimes, there is a problem with the high location of the sewer hole. this usually happens in old houses, or, in new buildings, with an illiterately installed sewerage system. Then the bath needs to be raised to an additional height, if it is not cast iron, which is quite problematic to raise. Wooden blocks of the required height are substituted under light baths, or lay out a substrate of red (white) brick, or, more simply, replace the threaded stud with a longer one. They are sold in construction markets and plumbing stores.

The cast-iron bathtub, known to us for a long time, has a lot of weight, so install it together. This bath is good because it keeps heat inside for a long time, therefore it is suitable for those who like to soak in fragrant foamy water for a long time, it is purchased once and for all.

A new bath is brought into the room vertically and turned over on its side, placed in its place with the bottom against the wall, and the outlet should be located in the direction we need. Supports are fixed from the upper side of the bathtub with a coupling bolt, if there are wedges, they are installed by lightly tapping from the center to the edges, until they are securely and firmly fixed.

An adjusting screw with a nut is pre-installed on each support.

Next, the bath is turned upside down, two missing side supports are installed. Now, using a level and an adjusting screw, align the bath to a perfect horizontal position, without tilting. If the installation surface of the legs is smooth and slippery, it is fixed with waterproof polymer glue, or decorative plastic plugs are used.

Then they connect to the water supply system, making a reliable waterproofing of all gaps, cracks and joints formed. The final stage of the bathroom installation is the installation of a faucet and a shower hose, taking into account all the design features and the convenience of their use in the future.

Corner photo

Decorative finishing is the final bathroom refurbishment, carried out only on a fully fixed product. You can tile the bath with tiles, drywall, purchase a special protective screen, everything according to your desire and imagination. In any case, windows should be left for access to pipes and drains, if necessary during emergencies. It is strictly forbidden to tightly close these places so that you can eliminate the places of leakage at any time.

Source: repairset.ru

How to fix the bath: the correct sequence

Usually, a special bath mount is used, depending on the material from which it is made - steel, cast iron or acrylic:

• The advantages of cast iron baths are durability and the ability to retain heat longer, and the disadvantages include the large weight of the bath. Therefore, it should be mounted on a sufficiently strong and reliable surface,
• A steel bath can be mounted on a specially made podium. Bricks can be used to make a podium, as a result, the bath will stand on such a podium quite steadily and firmly, without swaying. Steel baths are much cheaper than cast iron ones, their main disadvantage is the noise when filling with water,

Useful: to eliminate noise when filling a steel bath with water, it is necessary to treat its surface with putty on the outside, which also allows the bath to retain heat longer.

• Acrylic baths have a number of positive qualities: they keep heat well, do not slip, and have a pleasant appearance. At the same time, the strength of such baths is inferior to the strength of baths made of cast iron and steel.
  Acrylic bathtubs have a flexible bottom that can break under the weight of a heavy person. How to strengthen an acrylic bath? To do this, it is necessary to make a solid metal structure, which is highly resistant, according to the shape and size of the bath.
• In addition to the podium, special iron legs can be used to fasten metal bathtubs. This method is sometimes less reliable - over time, the bath begins to sway a little.

We foam the corner

Basic principles of fastening

Regardless of whether the question of how to fix an acrylic bathtub or a metal one is being considered, there are several general principles for fixing it:

• Drain pipes are easiest to attach to the bath, laying it on its side,
• The first step is to connect the drain and only then fix the bath on the legs or podium,
• Next, you should slowly move the bath to the wall, adjust it in height and carefully fix it,
• After the bathtub is fixed to the wall, the gaps in the places where the bathtub and the wall come into contact should be sealed with a special lubricating mixture,
• Without waiting for the mixture to harden, they also install a plastic rim or baseboard.

Fixing various types of bathtubs

The fasteners used for the bathtub depend on what material it is made of:

• Cast iron bathtubs are usually installed on four cast supports (legs) rigidly fixed to the bathtub body. The fixation of the supports depends on the design of the bathtub and is carried out either by driving in the metal wedges included in the kit, or by tightening the coupling bolts.
• Important: when installing a cast-iron bathtub on a floor surface in the bathroom with a low or medium hardness. under each support, a metal (not aluminum) lining must be installed, the diameter of which is at least 50 mm and the thickness is at least 5 mm.
• Unlike heavy cast iron bathtubs that can be securely installed even in the middle of the bathtub, light steel bathtubs are securely fixed by adjoining three walls of the bathtub. The bath is installed before the wall tiles are laid, and ideally the end walls are at a distance of 3-5 mm from each other exceeding the length of the bath.

Bathtubs are usually installed on legs, but the main problem is that placing the bathtub simply on the floor will cause it to sway during the process of taking water procedures, which causes some discomfort.

Photo of a bathtub installed on legs

In the case of a cast iron bath, the most effective way to solve this problem is to build a podium at the installation site.

An acrylic bathtub is fixed in much the same way as a steel bathtub. The main difference is that the supports are most often not fastened with bolts, but are screwed directly to the bottom of the bathtub with screws. If there are no ready-made holes in the seats for complete screws, they must be drilled independently.

Important: When drilling holes in acrylic, only stop drills should be used, as acrylic is very easy to drill.

Instructions for fixing the bath

Consider the main stages of fixing the bath.

The final part of the installation of the corner bath

Related video: Bath installation. How to install a bath with your own hands.

The first step is to figure out what material the bath is made of:

1. Cast iron bathtubs are highly durable and able to retain heat for a long time. At the same time, they also have a very high weight, so the best option for fixing a cast-iron bath is to build a podium.
2. Steel bathtubs are characterized by lower weight and cost, as well as simplicity. At the same time, their service life is also significantly lower than that of cast-iron bathtubs.
   In addition, steel baths quickly lose their attractive appearance, since the enamel comes off quite easily.
3. Acrylic bathtubs are comfortable, attractive, and retain heat well.

At the same time, when thinking about how to fix an acrylic bathtub, one should take into account its low strength, since there are cases when an acrylic bathtub could not withstand the weight of a full person, which was expressed in pushing its legs inside.

• The podium should only support the bottom of the bathtub, while its legs should remain on the floor.
• The podium is usually made of brick and leveled with a bubble level.
• After the construction of the podium, a bath is installed on it and the height of the legs is adjusted. Aligning the height will be greatly facilitated by the fact that now the bath rests on the podium, and not on the legs.

The bath is laid on its side and an overflow pipe is mounted outside to prevent the bath from overflowing. An outlet is mounted at the bottom of the bath.

• The floor siphon is connected to the overflow and outlet of the bath.
• The legs are attached to the bathroom and installed in such a way as to insert the siphon pipe into the sewer pipe.
• Move the bath close to the walls of the bathroom.
• The junction of the drain and the siphon is minted.
• Small wooden plates are placed under the legs of the installed bathtub so that the bathtub has a slight slope towards the drain, which prevents the accumulation of water inside the tank.
• After the bath is securely fixed and the height of the gap between the walls and sides of the bath is adjusted, it is sealed with putty or cement.
• After the bath is installed, it is closed with drywall. On top of it, tiles are laid in the bathroom or a plastic screen is installed under the bath.

Sheathing the installed bathroom with drywall

Source: eto-vannaya.ru

Determine the optimal height of the bath from the floor

Bathroom renovation is always accompanied by accurate calculations and careful measurements. After all, everything here is interconnected: plumbing is mounted taking into account the location of pipes and drains, cabinets and shelves in the best places for use.

Even the height of the bathtub from the floor is very significant, and this parameter should be taken into account when carrying out any repair work.

If professionals are engaged in the installation of plumbing and repairs, then by all means expect a question from them: what height of the bathtub from the floor do you need. It is worth thinking in advance what answer to give the masters. To do this, you need to analyze the following information:

1. Height of family members living in the house - it is always difficult for people of short stature to climb over high sides
2. The presence of children and elderly relatives in the house - it will also be difficult for them to master the high altitude due to their age and complexion.
3. Do you plan to decorate the walls with tiles, and what size will be its elements.

When the standard installation height is 60 cm, ceramic tiles lie exactly two or three rows from the floor. It does not need to be cut again and adjusted to size. It is very convenient when laying, more aesthetically pleasing in appearance and reduces the consumption of finishing material.

Tiles lay in perfect rows when exactly 60 cm from the floor to the sides of the bath

As for the distance from the sides of the sanitary ware to the floor, it easily changes during the installation process. Of course, the presence of adjustable legs should be clarified at the stage of purchase so that there are no problems in the future.

It is worth deciding in advance on the distance of the sides from the floor, since after the installation of cast-iron plumbing, it will be difficult to change something due to the large weight of the product.

Acrylic products are in the greatest demand among other types of sanitary ware, as they are distinguished by their light weight, good thermal conductivity, simple installation and elegant design. However, such equipment is sensitive to improper maintenance and easily damaged by shock loads. The height of the acrylic bath from the floor is set without problems, thanks to the adjustable legs of the product.

Steel tubs are also easy to install, but are less popular than acrylic and cast iron. They are mounted with support on three walls, as they are not very stable. But their main disadvantages are that they quickly cool the water and are quite noisy during operation.

Since most of the bathtubs offered on the sanitary market have adjustable legs, installation problems usually do not arise.

So, the standard height of the bathtub from the floor is 60 centimeters, but if this indicator is somehow inconvenient, then when installing the product, you can stop at your own option. You should not experiment strongly - it is better to choose a comfortable height in the range of 50-70 cm from the floor.

Height from the floor determines the comfort when using sanitary ware by a person

Laying bricks around the corner bath

When choosing a bath, two parameters should not be confused: the depth of the product and the height from the floor. The height is determined by the distance from the horizontal of the floor to the sides.

The depth is measured on the inside - also from the sides, but only to the bottom. If the installation of the bath is already close, and you have not yet decided on its height from the floor, then try to find the best option empirically. Or listen to the advice of professional builders who will suggest the best solution based on the interior of the room, the location of the finishes on the walls, as well as taking into account the exit of pipes and sewerage.

Source: www.vannaguide.ru

Acrylic bathtubs are popular due to their attractive appearance, variety of designs and colors, affordable price and ease of installation. In addition, acrylic bathtubs are light in weight, non-porous, most of them have an antibacterial coating, and defects are cleaned with special pastes. But there are also disadvantages - the surface does not withstand mechanical damage, cleaning with abrasive products, and they keep heat to a lesser extent than cast-iron bathtubs, and it is not recommended to sit on the sides of acrylic bathtubs.

Preparing to install an acrylic bath

The bath is installed in the room before it is tiled. Before choosing a new bath, they close the central faucet, dismantle the old bath, cut out or break out the old drain (depending on whether it is metal or plastic), clean the sewer socket, then insert the corrugation (drain valve element) into it and generously lubricate the joints with silicone sealant, floors must be carefully aligned.

After that, they begin to measure, carefully checking all the dimensions of the place where the new bath will be located. When choosing a location, keep in mind that the bathtub should not block access to pipes, but at the same time fit snugly against the wall.

The last stage of preparing the bathroom is the cleaning of construction waste.

Scheme drawing of installation and connection of the bathroom

The shape of the bath can be not only rectangular, but also other geometric shapes - round, square, angular and others. At the same time, despite the shape, the walls of the bath should not bend under the pressure of the hand, be translucent, there should not be a caustic chemical smell.

A sign of quality is the number of supports. A fairly solid product has four corner supports, a less durable one has more. Included with the purchase, check the quality certificates, the batch number of the product, the availability of installation instructions, fittings, the quality and quantity of fasteners.

Installation options for an acrylic bath: frame with legs, brickwork and a combination of these two methods. The most correct is the first method, installing the bath on a special frame, which should come with the bath.

Tools and materials for work

One of the preparatory stages is the preparation of materials and tools for work. Stock up on the following:

• mounting gun for sealant,
• building level,
• wrench,
• corrugated or rigid tube.

Tiling an installed bathroom

Do-it-yourself acrylic bath installation procedure

Before starting the installation and installation of the bath, it is necessary to turn it over.

• unpack all the details of the frame fasteners,
• put guide marks with a pencil, one will be located closer to the drain, the other closer to the head of the bath,

• according to these marks, we drill holes for screws (it is advisable to set a mark on the drill with a piece of electrical tape so that it does not pass through the bathtub, and the hole is not more than six millimeters deep),
• we fasten the fastening brackets with self-tapping screws, and the legs of the product to them.

Siphon installation

Brickwork for subsequent installation of a bathroom on it

• connect the top drain hole, then the bottom one,
• collect siphon,

• degrease the surfaces with a solvent and apply a layer of plumbing sealant.
• turn the bath over and, using the level, measure the degree of curvature of the bath along and across it and, accordingly, twist the legs in the right direction.

Bathroom with adhesive soundproofing

• The bathtub is adjusted according to the level

Install hooks to prevent the tub from tipping over

Photo of making a bathroom box

• mark on the wall the line of the edge of the bath,
• drilling holes with a perforator,
• fasten the hooks to the wall with dowels,
• we put the bath on these hooks.

Drain connection

• We connect the siphon to the sewer using a corrugation or a rigid tube.

Bathroom installation

• We check the bathtub for leaks (we fill the bathtub with water and carefully look to see if a leak is detected, if one was found, we re-treat with a plumbing sealant, after drying and degreasing the surfaces).

Bathroom installation process

Source: stroyvopros.net

How to install a bath on bricks: lay out a brick base and side

The method of installing the bath depends on the type of room (combined with a bathroom or autonomous) and its area, the size of the bath itself, the presence of other plumbing fixtures and household appliances, furniture, etc. The installation of the bath on bricks ensures maximum stability. At the very beginning, we want to note that ergonomic requirements require maintaining a distance of about 0.9 m from the bathtub rim.

Foam as soundproofing

Installing the bath on legs does not guarantee its stability: the screw fastening loosens over time, reducing static. The most reliable location for a cast-iron bowl is on solid brickwork. But just placing the bowl on such a “pedestal” is not enough.

It is necessary to do the work with high quality, which means that, slowly, step by step, install it so that there is no gap between the side of the bathtub and the wall where water enters, and then, over time, mold forms. First you need to understand that cast iron products are heavy in themselves, and given the average dimensions of bathtubs 80 × 160 at a height of 50 cm, it is clear why installation must be done by at least two people.

The cast iron bath must be installed on a brick base. Note: despite the seeming archaism of such baths, they are actively used, tk. the heat capacity index of cast iron exceeds all other materials at times!

Brick base for a cast-iron bath

Just a few steps, and the bath will be installed on a solid foundation. For this you need:

Installing a corner bath

• Measure the room and the bath, consider its location in relation to other household appliances and plumbing equipment.
• Prepare bricks. They need just enough to lay out a scaffolding 2-3 bricks high across the bath. On average, 20 pieces. To get a notch (bed), another half-brick is laid along the edges. Depending on the length of the product, the number of rows is calculated, given that the optimal distance between them is 50 cm. The height of the bath on bricks from the sides to the floor should not be higher than 0.7 m, so that it is convenient to climb into it. The height of the front scaffold is 17 cm, and from the other end it is performed 2 cm higher.

Masonry is done on a sand-cement mortar: for one part of cement there are 4 parts of sand with water mixed in. The edges of the container are attached to the wall with tile adhesive. For greater reliability, the side surfaces of the bath adjacent to the wall are processed in the same way, and the wall itself too. This ensures, firstly, a strong “wall-bath” connection, and secondly, the adhesive base creates a seal of the seams. Ideally, for good adhesion of the mortar with bricks, it is necessary to give the masonry time to stand for at least a day.

• A siphon with overflow is mounted on a bath that has not yet been installed. To do this, turn the bowl on its side and equip the drain hole for the siphon with rubber sealed gaskets that prevent water from leaking. In order not to have to “turn” the container again soon, it is better to immediately take care of a high-quality reliable siphon. The sewer pipe with a drain must necessarily be below the outlet of the siphon.
• A bathtub is installed on the prepared surface at the level laid on the bottom, horizontally without a slope. But the outer edge is literally half a centimeter higher than the inner one (so that there is no spillage of water over the edge onto the floor).
• Proper installation of a cast-iron bathtub on bricks involves connecting the drain to the sewer hose in two ways: a strong and more reliable rigid connection: a plastic pipe and an elbow with an angle of 45 ° and 90 ° are used, a flexible and movable plastic expansion corrugation is connected hermetically with a sealant to the sewer inlet.

Free supply of hot and cold water pipes and drainage systems should be ensured. It is important to immediately make sure that the installation is correct. To do this, the container is filled with water and the drain opens. If the liquid does not leave immediately, with delays, then there is a distortion.

• One more nuance. Before installing the bath, the distance from its rear end to the wall is calculated. If an excess area is expected, it must also be bricked. As an alternative - a support box under the bowl, just below the rim.

Brick side for a steel bath

The technology for installing different bathtubs is generally the same. The undoubted advantage of steel sanitary containers - their low weight (about 30 kg) - is one of the reasons for the instability.

The steel bath can be installed on metal profiles, and then the structure is completed with brickwork

Installation work is carried out even before the walls are tiled. Bricks under the bath before installation are pre-pasted with a rolled plastic gerlen, and the walls are treated with a moisture-proof composition. A layer of fabric at its base serves as a separating element (compensator) between the cement mortar and the body, changing its geometric parameters and shape depending on heating or cooling with water. For better adhesion and elimination of air zones between surfaces, tile adhesive is applied to the layer.

Bath Screen Shaping

A “shirt” made of the same guerlain, in which the entire iron bath is completely packed, not only increases strength, but also serves as an excellent sound insulator, drowning out the noise of falling water.

Between the red brick columns, with a bathtub filled with water, polyurethane foam is blown from below. As the foam expands as it solidifies, it can lift the light container off the racks. The weight of the water keeps the tub on the bricks. Foam heat insulator is also a good sound absorber. Finishing work is carried out with the provided hatches for the revision of plumbing units.

It is important to note that a steel sanitary ware needs to be grounded. The best way to do this is to use an industrial tested grounding device.

When carrying out repairs in the bathroom and self-replacing plumbing, such a problem as the correct installation of the font necessarily arises, since aspects such as comfort during the adoption of water procedures and the service life of the entire structure depend on how well this operation is performed. The correct installation of an acrylic bathtub with your own hands consists in the exact sequence of actions that include the assembly of the structure itself, the preparation of the installation site, and the installation itself. In this article, we will look at options for how to properly install an acrylic bath.

One of the main positive qualities of such structures, which favorably distinguishes them from the background of outdated metal models, is their low weight, this quality makes it possible to independently install acrylic bathtubs without resorting to the help of professionals. Installation of an acrylic bathtub is a rather complicated process, since this material is very sensitive to mechanical damage from sharp or heavy objects. It is also not worth delaying the installation for a long time due to the fact that a bathtub made of this material has one unpleasant property during improper or long-term storage, it can change its original shape.

Preparatory work and installation options for an acrylic bath

Before you install an acrylic bath with your own hands, you need to prepare the place and the bath itself for installation, remove all unnecessary items from the bathroom, dismantle old equipment, prepare the necessary tools and materials for installation work. You will need:

• bath;
• legs or frame on which the bowl will be attached;
• a hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• perforator;
• assembly sealant;
• level;
• wrench;
• insulating tape;
• mounting tape (construction tape);
• corrugated pipe;
• spare parts for attaching an acrylic bath to a wall or floor.

Before you install a new acrylic bathroom, you need to do some preparatory work:

• first turn off the water supply to the central tap;
• then dismantle the old bath;
• then crack or cut out the old drain;
• clean the sewer hole;
• insert a new corrugated pipe into the sewer socket;
• coat with sealant the joint of the corrugation and the sewer hole;
• level the floor for an acrylic bath.

Now you can proceed directly to the installation of new plumbing.

Installing a new acrylic bathtub is carried out using one of the following methods:

• on a metal frame;
• on support legs;
• on brick supports;
• on a brick podium;
• combined mounting method.

Acrylic sanitary ware installation rules and regulations allow any of the above methods to attach a bathtub to a wall or floor, based on its type and model. So, if there is a metal frame in the kit, then it is better to install the font on it, while using the attached instructions. And if special legs are sold along with the bathtub, then an acrylic bathtub must be installed on the legs, since such a support is designed specifically for this model, taking into account the areas of greatest stress.

Let's take a closer look at how to fix an acrylic bathtub in each of the 5 listed methods.

Installing an acrylic bathtub on support legs

This is the fastest and easiest installation method that does not require a set of tools and special skills. The assembly of the bathtub with legs is easy if you use the instructions that are attached to the product. If, according to the instructions or during installation work, it becomes necessary to drill the font, then this should be done with a wood drill at slow speeds. Mounting on the support legs consists of screwing the legs to the bowl and adjusting them in place.

1. Screwing legs. On the lower part of the body of the bath there are special seats marked with stickers or corresponding symbols. To facilitate self-assembly of an acrylic bathtub, some manufacturers supply products with pre-drilled holes. And if they are not, then you need to make these holes yourself. Then the legs are screwed into these holes, otherwise the load will not be distributed evenly and the bath will quickly fail.
2. Support adjustment. Almost all bathtub legs are designed with the ability to adjust the height of the support in order to attach the bowl at the desired slope using a level. First, the bath is installed against the wall, and then the legs are twisted, setting the desired height. After that, they proceed to horizontal alignment, when the level is set on the side of the bath in a horizontal position. If necessary, the legs are twisted up or down with a wrench.

When the optimal performance is set, the legs are fixed with nuts in the desired position. Sometimes, for greater reliability, the bathtub is screwed to the wall with special plastic or metal hooks, which are pre-mounted strictly horizontally around the entire perimeter of the bathtub into the wall at the same distance from each other. The hooks are screwed up to the wall cladding.

Mounting on a metal frame

The most reliable way, relatively simple, the main thing is to clearly follow the assembly instructions for the product. In this case, the acrylic bathtub is installed as follows:

1. First of all, it is necessary to assemble the frame, according to the instructions, using the long self-tapping screws that are included in the kit.
2. The product is turned over on its side or upside down, so that it is convenient to fix the frame.
3. Then the frame is installed on the acrylic bath in the center of the bottom, and the legs are attached to the support.
4. Two supports are fixed to the frame in the central part, two more along the wall, and three supports along the outer edge of the font.
5. The legs are then adjusted to the same height so that the height of the tub does not exceed 65 cm for safety and ease of use.
6. After that, the product is turned over, checked with a building level, whether the bath is level.
7. Then the siphon and overflow are connected.
8. If necessary, the font is attached to the wall with hooks or metal corners.
9. Finally, a decorative screen is installed.

An installation option is also possible, when the frame with legs is mounted immediately on the floor, and then a bath is mounted on top of the fixed frame. Most often, the installed frame does not require additional fasteners, but if it does not seem reliable to you, then you can strengthen it with additional fastening hooks, which were mentioned above.

How to install a bathtub on brick supports?

In the event that a metal frame is not available, the installation of an acrylic bath is done on a brick podium. This method is not economical, despite the fact that the construction is particularly strong, due to the fact that it requires a huge amount of bricks. Moreover, an excessive load is created on the floors, due to the rather large weight of the finished podium. To reduce the cost of construction, as well as to reduce the load on the ceiling, it is recommended to install an acrylic bath on brick columns. To create such a design, you can get by with a small amount of mortar and 12 bricks.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Without removing the protective film, the bath is brought into the room and installed at the place of future installation, after which the location of the columns is marked.
2. According to the length of the bathtub, it is noted where 2-3 columns will be located, where one is located in the middle of the bottom, and the other two are at the edges of the bathtub bend.
3. After they take out the bath, they start laying out columns 17-19 cm long so that the height of the bath above the floor level is not more than 60-65 cm.
4. The masonry is allowed to dry for 12-24 hours, after which a siphon is connected to the bath and pushed tightly against the wall, it is installed on the previously made posts.
5. Using silicone sealant, fill the gap between the posts and the bottom of the tank.
6. With the help of metal hooks and corners, the edges of the bath are attached to the wall.

Experienced experts recommend that, prior to installation, apply mounting foam to the lower surface of the acrylic bath, this little trick will reduce the thermal conductivity and resonant ability of the material. Also, the use of mounting foam during installation reduces the likelihood of damage to the bottom of the acrylic bathtub by brick supports.

Mounting method on a brick podium

In the event that there are no metal supports for a certain model, the installation is done on a brick podium. According to experts, this method is in no way inferior in terms of reliability to the previous version, the only thing it differs in is that this method takes more time, while it is somewhat “dirtier” than the previous version. Installation of an acrylic bathtub on the podium is done using a saw, mounting foam, bricks, mortar and moisture-resistant plywood.

Installation is done following the following technology:

1. The bath is temporarily placed in place, while the protective film should not be removed from it, after which the place where the drain hole will be located is marked. This operation is needed in order to leave a gap in the podium to connect the drain.
2. Under the entire supporting part, with the help of a mortar, brickwork is made to such a height that the sides would be at a height of 60 cm relative to the floor level. You also need to consider that there will still be 2-3 cm of mounting foam between the masonry and the bathroom.
3. Around the brick podium, a frame cut from moisture-resistant plywood is assembled. In this case, it should be taken into account that the height of the plywood should be higher than the podium by the thickness of the foam layer.
4. We evenly fill the brick podium with one layer of mounting foam, after which this layer is covered with a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood of the appropriate size.
5. The bathtub is turned over, mounted on the podium, after which, using the building level, they check how evenly the bathtub is placed.
6. The bath is filled halfway, closing the drain, this is done to evenly solidify the foam. The period of foam drying is 12-24 hours.
7. The bath is connected to a drain with overflow, mounted on a podium and attached to 3 walls with hooks and a metal corner.

Worth considering! Nowadays, acrylic baths have a sloping bottom, which accelerates the outflow of water into the drain, so during installation it is not necessary to install the bath on a slope.

The most famous method of attaching acrylic baths is the combined method, when the installation is carried out on a metal frame made of aluminum profiles, and ordinary bricks are used to prevent the bottom from bending or deforming. In order to build such a structure, you will need:

• bricks that will support the bottom of the font;
• for the manufacture of the supporting structure, a metal or aluminum profile is required;
• in order to fix the brickwork, cement mortar is required;
• to seal the seams, it is recommended to use a sealant;
• self-tapping screws will help to assemble the frame;
• for stirring the cement mortar, use a special container and a trowel.

Worth remembering! When working with sharp and heavy objects, care should be taken, as an accidentally dropped tool can easily make a hole in the bathroom, thereby damaging the product. It is better to take precautions in advance by covering the font with thick paper or thick film.

In order to properly install an acrylic bathtub on the wall, it is necessary to note what its future height will be, starting from which we will form the height of the brickwork. We measure from the floor to the indicated line, from the results obtained we subtract the height of the bath itself, and what happened will be the thickness of the brick lining on which the bath will be mounted.

It is recommended to start installing an acrylic bathtub against the wall by mounting a metal profile, which will subsequently serve as a support for the bathtub. Then, along the lower level of the edge of the edge of the bathtub, you need to install a metal profile around the entire perimeter with the help of dowels, where the bathtub will come into contact with the wall. It is on him that the sides of the bath will rest. Next, before installing the acrylic bath, we make a brick pillow along the bottom of the bath of the required height.

Need to know! Before fixing acrylic bathtubs in this way, everything must be calculated so that during installation it exactly lies with its sides on the previously installed profile, and the bottom slightly touches the brickwork along it. Attachment to the wall in this situation is done with the help of a sealant, which is applied to the profile, and at the same time is a sealant preventing the flow of water.

Thus, the manufacture of the frame can be considered complete, but it is possible to create a front protective screen from the same metal profile. This screen will make it possible to hide the inside and be able to provide additional protection for the outer side, as well as make it possible to make a special hatch for the repair and maintenance of the siphon. You have learned how to properly install an acrylic bath on a do-it-yourself frame.