Floors on the ground are arranged in individual residential buildings, baths and utility rooms for all types of foundations, with the exception of columnar ones. On any soil, you can make a dry and warm floor. It is a reliable, practical and durable design.
Modern owners of private houses prefer to heat the premises through the floor. The best option for such heating is floors mounted directly on the ground. If we consider them in a section, then this is a layer cake, consisting of several layers. The bottom layer is soil, and serves as the top top coat. The layers are arranged in a certain sequence, each with its own purpose, thickness and function.
The main disadvantage of floors on the ground is large financial expenses and the time required for their production. Requirements are also imposed on the soil: it should not be too loose, the standing groundwater should not be closer than 5–6 m.
The layered construction of a warm floor on the ground should provide sound and heat insulation, prevent the penetration of groundwater, not accumulate water vapor in the floor layers and create comfortable conditions living.
concrete floors
Concrete floors on the ground do not provide for a basement and space under the floor for its ventilation.
Important! Arranging concrete floors on ground with close standing groundwater, it should be taken into account that their level can change within a short time. This must be taken into account when laying layers.
The classic floor on any soil consists of 10 layers:
Layers that protect against groundwater and distribute the load
- Cushion made of compacted clay. It is necessary to stop the rise of groundwater. If, after removing the layer of soil, you reach the clay, then it must be properly prepared. A layer of clay cuts off the penetration of groundwater upwards.
- Sand pillow. Its purpose is also to prevent the ingress of groundwater and equalize the load on the ground. Sand weakens the capillary rise of water and evenly distributes the pressure of the floor layers lying above it on the ground. Any sand will do.
- Large rubble. This is a kind of drainage, its purpose is to make the foundation strong, to distribute the load. It generally does not allow water to flow upwards due to the capillary property. Crushed stone is used fractions - 40–60 mm.
The first three layers should be placed in this order, each with a thickness of 10 cm in a compacted state. Layers must be rammed.
Advice. By hand it is difficult to compact a thick layer of sand or clay, therefore, when filling such a layer, thinner layers (10–15 cm) must be successively added and compacted.
- Waterproofing layer (roofing material or polyethylene film). It is placed directly on the crushed stone, and it serves both to protect the crushed stone from the flow of concrete solution into it from above, and as an obstacle to the penetration of water vapor into concrete layer from below. The film is laid with a whole sleeve (without cutting) with an overlap, wound onto the walls, gluing the places of overlaps with adhesive tape.
- Rough coupler 80 mm and thicker. For it, washed sand and fine gravel (10–20 mm) should be taken. Steel fiber is added to the solution or reinforcement is used. For the screed to be ready for the next stages of work, it needs to withstand a certain time.
- Waterproofing layer (coated waterproofing, roll or film). If the first layers are laid correctly and efficiently, roofing material without powder in 1-2 layers or a film with a thickness of at least 120 microns can be used for waterproofing. The waterproofing layer must be monolithic. If roofing material is used, overlaps are coated bituminous mastic, the overlaps of the polyethylene film are glued with adhesive tape.
- Insulation. You can insulate the floor with expanded clay, extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam. The thickness of polystyrene plates and foam sheets depends on climatic conditions, but not less than 5 cm. Expanded clay is covered with a layer of 15 cm.
- Waterproofing. On expanded clay or other insulation, it is recommended to lay waterproofing. This will protect the insulation from moisture from the upper layers and improve it. thermal insulation properties. At this stage, a thick polyethylene film is used, which is laid in a continuous layer.
- The screed is clean. It can accommodate floor heating heaters (water heating circuits, cable mats or heating cable). A layer of finishing screed is poured 50 mm or more. It is reinforced using composite or steel reinforcement, fiber is added to the solution.
- Finish coating. If all layers are made in the specified order, any coating can be laid.
Pros and cons of concrete floors on the ground
Advantages
- Reliably protect the room from the cold. No matter what the weather is outside, the soil will always be warm.
- Any insulation and waterproofing materials are applicable, as well as any coatings for fine finish gender.
- The main load is distributed over the ground, no additional calculations are required. If a heavy load is expected, you just need to increase the thickness of the three lower layers.
- It is possible to organize the heating of the house through the floor, which will quickly heat up and evenly distribute heat, preventing drafts.
- Protect the house from mold, reproduction of microorganisms.
disadvantages
- It is required to take into account the location of the groundwater level.
- Can significantly reduce the height of the room under certain design features Houses.
- The technology is not applicable for pile and column foundations.
- If a system malfunctions, its repair and dismantling is a very time-consuming and financial undertaking.
- The installation of floors is a lengthy and complex procedure in terms of volume of work, as well as costly in finance, it is best to perform such work during the construction of a house.
How to make a concrete floor on the ground yourself
It is best to remove the soil and fill in the first three layers immediately after the construction of the foundation of the house. First, calculations are made to what depth the soil needs to be removed. The level of the finished floor is taken as the zero mark. Add up the dimensions for the thickness of each layer, for example:
- laminate + substrate -1.5 cm;
- screed + waterproofing - 6 cm;
- thermal insulation + waterproofing - 6–11 cm;
- concrete screed 8–10 cm;
- crushed stone, sand, clay - 15 + 15 + 10 cm;
The total value is 61.5 cm. If the layers are thicker, the soil will have to be removed to a greater depth. Add 5 cm to the resulting depth.
A hole is dug over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe building to the calculated depth and the soil is removed. For the convenience of subsequent work on the walls of the foundation along the entire perimeter, the levels of the floor layers are marked. This will make it easier to align them. The soil does not necessarily contain clay, for clarity, we give the procedure for working on soil that does not have a layer of clay.
Floors on the ground: preparation and pouring
Clay.
Any clay is poured with a layer thickness of at least 10 cm. It is leveled and watered abundantly with weak liquid glass (solution of 1 part of glass in 4 parts of water). The wet layer is tamped with a piece of timber 200x200mmx1.5 m. On a large area, you can use a vibrotamping or vibrocompacting machine by renting it. If, as a result of compaction, the layer turned out to be thinner, the clay is poured and compacted again.
Advice: a durable rammer can be made from a channel cut (20x30 cm) by welding a piece to it metal pipe in which to pour sand for weighting.
Clay is one of the layers of the concrete floor
The leveled compacted clay layer is poured with milk from cement (2 kg of cement is stirred into 10 liters of water) so that there are no puddles, and left for a day so that the process of chemical interaction of cement with liquid glass is completed completely. Walking on it at this time is not recommended.
Sand
Trying not to walk on the prepared clay layer, they pour sand on 15 cm. You can walk on it. It is leveled and also compacted to the appropriate mark on the wall of the foundation of the house.
rubble
It is covered with sand and also carefully compacted with a rammer. Especially carefully align the rubble in the corners, tamping it tightly. The result should be a flat horizontal surface.
Polyethylene film
Uncut sleeves are laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm, led onto the walls by 3–5 cm. The overlaps are carefully glued with adhesive tape. It is recommended to move in shoes with soft soles, trying not to damage the film with sharp edges of pieces of rubble. Although experts say that this is just a technological technique, the film also performs its waterproofing functions.
Rough coupler
For it, you can order ready-made "skinny" concrete or make a solution yourself by mixing M500 cement with crushed stone and sand in a volume ratio of 1: 4: 3. Metal fiber is also added to the mixture in the amount of 1–1.5 kg per 1 m 3 of the solution. The solution can be poured, aligning with beacons or marks on the walls of the foundation. It should be borne in mind that the even horizontal surface of the rough screed will simplify the further stages of the floor installation.
After two days, the concrete is ironed with a mixture (10: 1) of water with liquid glass and dry cement. They do it this way: with a roller or spray gun, moisten the entire surface of the screed with a solution, then sprinkle it with a thin layer of dry cement and rub it with a grater into the concrete. This technique will increase the strength of concrete by an order of magnitude and increase its resistance to water. The screed needs at least 1.5 months to fully mature, but subsequent work can be carried out after 1-2 weeks.
Waterproofing
Prepared rough screed cover with liquid bitumen (primer), especially carefully smearing the corners and capturing 5 cm of the walls. On such a bitumen-treated base, strips of roofing material are glued with an overlap of 10 cm and a 5 cm overhang of the walls. In places of overlap, the strips are heated with a hairdryer or coated with bituminous mastic.
The strips of the second layer are placed offset by half the strip in the same way. Ruberoid is especially carefully glued in the corners of the room. When performing this type of work, it is recommended to move on the floor in shoes with soft soles.
thermal insulation
The purpose of laying this layer is clear. best material in this case there will be plates of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). A 5 cm thick sheet of this heat insulator replaces expanded clay, poured with a layer of 70 cm in its effectiveness. The material practically does not absorb water and is characterized by high compressive strength.
In order for XPS sheets to serve more efficiently, they are recommended to be laid in 2 layers, each of them 3 cm thick, shifting the joints by 1/3 or ½ sheets. This will completely eliminate cold bridges and improve the thermal insulation properties of the insulation. The joints of the XPS boards in each layer should be glued with special adhesive tape.
If expanded clay is used as a heater or mineral wool, an additional layer of waterproofing material, for example, a polyethylene film, will be required to protect the insulation from the moisture of the finishing screed.
Finishing screed
Along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape 1.5–2.0 cm is fixed to the walls for the entire height of the screed. The end of the damper tape is fixed on the insulation boards. The screed is reinforced with a 3 mm masonry mesh with a mesh size of 100x100. If it is planned to install a warm electric floor, a reflective waterproofing material is placed on the XPS sheets. When installing water heating circuits, the thickness of the screed will be needed more, the water heating pipes must be in the thickness of the screed.
The reinforcing mesh is positioned in such a way that it is in the screed and does not protrude onto its surface. To do this, use coasters, pieces of wooden bars, metal profiles or, for example, corks from plastic bottles. The combination of reinforcement and leveling beacons is a rather complicated task, therefore it is recommended to pour the screed according to the mark on the walls, and then pour a self-leveling self-leveling floor over it with a thin layer.
For screed, ready-made dry mixes are used or a solution is prepared from washed river sand and cement in a ratio of 3: 1. The work is done quickly. The screed will be hardened for 4-5 days, and its final readiness will be in a month. Application ready mixes with special additives will accelerate the maturation of the screed. Readiness is checked paper napkin, laying on the floor and covering with a sheet of polyethylene. If the napkin remains dry in a day, the screed is ready for applying a self-leveling mixture and installing top coats.
Wooden floor on the ground on logs
In private houses, wooden floors are most often made. There are several reasons for this:
- in frame houses the wooden floor is an extension general design building;
- wood is a natural material that is safe for the health and life of the residents of the house. Some types of wood have a beneficial effect on health;
- the tree is easy to process and lay even for a beginner in construction work;
- wood treatment with antiseptics significantly increases its service life;
- floors are easy to repair and open if necessary.
Device wooden floor on the ground in a private house on the ground floor is quite feasible with your own hands. The floor can be insulated, communications, a basement can be hidden under it. It is laid on logs, which can be mounted when tying the strip foundation.
As a log, logs sawn into two halves, bars with an aspect ratio of 1: 1.5, double thick wood boards are used conifers. If the logs were not mounted when tying the foundation, they can be placed on prepared soil or on brick posts on a concrete base.
Logs are placed at a distance, which is determined by the thickness of the floorboard. So, if the board is 50 mm, the logs are set after 100 cm, if the board is 35 mm, the logs are set after 60 cm. The first and last logs are installed at a distance of 20 cm from the wall, the rest are placed between them. If the distance between the lags is somewhat greater than required, then the number of lags is increased, and the extreme ones are not shifted. If the room is rectangular, the logs are laid along long wall. For a square room, there is not much difference.
Installing a lag on the ground (cold floor without underground)
Work is performed in the following order:
- They calculate to what depth to take out the soil, based on the thickness of the log, layers of sand, crushed stone, clay or expanded clay.
- Filmed completely fertile layer earth and dig deeper, based on the estimated depth. The remaining soil is well leveled and compacted over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe future floor. Compaction should be done with a rammer. On the large areas You can use a vibrator to compact the soil.
- Pour any sand with a layer of 15 cm or more and the same layer of rubble (or construction debris) and rammed. If the house is on clay soil, pour and ram a layer of clay, and then successively sand and gravel on it. If the soil is sandy, then you can fill up a layer of calcined sand or slag ventilated for at least a year. You can pour a layer of expanded clay. The thickness of all layers of the fill should be approximately three times the height of the lag. All layers are carefully leveled and rammed.
- On lined upper layer(sand, slag or expanded clay) install logs treated with an antiseptic, they are sunk into the bedding and well rammed around. The upper level of the lag should be positioned so that the floor boards are in the desired position. Logs are attached to the foundation or lower crown.
- Floor boards are mounted along the lags.
Logs on brick columns (warm floor with underground)
Usually logs are installed on posts stacked in 2 bricks (25x25 cm).
- Clean up fertile land, the remaining soil is leveled and rammed.
- They mark the locations of the columns under the logs (in the event that the logs are not installed when tying the foundation). The height of the columns depends on which part of the wall the logs will rest on. This can be a beam of the first row or a grillage (a roofing beam covered with roofing material for tying the foundation).
- The cords are pulled so that they are located above the center of all the planned posts, and from the cords at an equal distance, pegs are driven into the ground to the width of the brick posts (25 cm in each direction).
Bases for posts
In marked places, pits are dug 40x40 cm in size and 15–25 cm deep on rocky or sandy soil and up to 45 cm on clay and loose soils. A layer of sand 10 cm and a layer of crushed stone of a large fraction of 10 cm are successively poured into deep pits and rammed.
Advice: If the groundwater level is close, the pits can be filled with a layer of clay 20–25 cm and compacted (this is a clay castle).
- The bottom of the pits is covered with plastic wrap or roofing material.
- The concrete base under the brick columns is poured so that it protrudes 5 cm above the level of the compacted soil. To do this, install the formwork from the boards (about 5 cm high above the ground) and the reinforcement in the pits. As reinforcement, you can use a wire or a mesh with cells of 10x10 cm.
- Concrete is poured (cement: sand: crushed stone (fr. 5–10 mm) = 1: 3: 2–3 and water to thick consistency) and left for a few days to ripen.
Making posts
- On the concrete base roofing material is laid in 1–2 layers so that it protrudes 1–2 cm beyond the edges.
- Brick columns of 2 bricks are laid out strictly vertically (on a plumb line) on the roofing material in such a way that last layer bricks was perpendicular to the direction of the log. To obtain a solution, cement M100 and sand are mixed in a volume ratio of 1: 3 and water is added by eye.
- A roofing material is placed on the column and a lining made of plywood treated with an antiseptic or OSB boards square shape so that it protrudes 2 cm beyond their edges.
Installation and alignment of the lag
Logs are installed on these linings. Leveling the lag is a long and painstaking job. For this, linings are used or part of the support is cut off. As a result, all lags should be at the same level.
Having aligned, they are attached to the posts with corners, and to the elements of the walls or foundation - with special fastening systems used for the construction frame houses. Holes are pre-drilled in concrete and dowels are inserted.
Floor installation
The last stage of the process - installation of the floor
- For a floor with insulation, bars of 30x50 or 50x50 mm are attached to the bottom of the log, on which a draft floor is laid from a thin unedged board 20 mm thick.
- A vapor barrier (vapor barrier membrane) is laid on the subfloor.
- A soft insulation (mineral wool) is placed on the membrane, so that its sheets fit snugly between the lags and tightly adjoin one another, not reaching about 2 cm to the top of the lag.
- Floor boards are laid along the logs.
Do-it-yourself floors on the ground
The arrangement of a warm floor in a house on the ground requires a carefully planned approach. In most cases it is required phased implementation work: at the first stage, a rough screed is poured and waiting for it to mature, at the second stage, the remaining layers are laid.
Design for a private house
Neglect of this rule can lead to negative consequences. This is explained by the constant movement of the soil and, accordingly, all the layers located above. Movements can be observed even on compacted and compacted soil, which has been unloaded for a long time.
After laying the underfloor heating cake, which has a rather impressive mass, cracks from subsidence may form. The most negative consequence may be a rush of elements of the warm floor, that is, all the costs of its arrangement will be in vain.
The device of a warm water floor on the ground
At the first stage, it is necessary to determine the level to which excavation will be carried out. It is necessary to remove the upper fertile layer in any case, since plant residues tend to decompose and smell unpleasant. Regardless of whether the subfloor is poured or not, the top layer of soil must be removed.
In addition, the fertile layer is less dense due to the presence of living beings and microorganisms in it, therefore, under the weight of the layers of a water-heated floor, it will begin to sag. As a result, the overlying layers will again suffer.
The height of the floor heating cake on the ground can be more than 20 cm, so the countdown must start from the mark where the finishing floor will pass. In this place put the appropriate mark and count the required depth. In this case, it is better to mark the level of each layer, so that it is easier to navigate in the process of arrangement.
Walkthrough
For the qualitative implementation of the process, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules for installing a warm floor on the ground:
- Remove the upper fertile layer, remove large debris and stones. Level and tamp the bottom of the resulting pit. This will be the basis for the layers to be laid, so the level is best checked with a level.
- Next, a layer of sand is poured, and any sand is suitable for filling. It must be well tamped and leveled.
- The next layer in the composition of a warm floor with water heating is expanded clay or crushed stone. However, it should be remembered that crushed stone is characterized by lower thermal conductivity. It is better to take stones of small or medium size. It is necessary to compact for a long time until the surface becomes almost monolithic.
- Now it's the turn of the preliminary screed, for the manufacture of which you can use two options. In the first case, sand and gravel are shed with a liquid solution of sand and cement in a ratio of 2: 1. In the second case, a rough screed 5-7 cm thick is poured with a reinforcing mesh laid. This option is considered more reliable, able to withstand significant loads.
- After setting the screed and hardening of the concrete solution, they proceed to laying the waterproofing layer. In most cases, a 200 micron thick polyethylene film is used for this, laid in two layers.
- Expanded polystyrene plates are laid on the waterproofing, the joints must be glued with adhesive tape to prevent the solution from leaking.
- From above it is necessary to lay a metallized waterproofing.
- Then proceed to the installation of the "warm floor" system. Install fasteners, lay the cable and heating tubes.
- The entire structure of the underfloor heating on the ground is poured with a reinforced underfloor screed.
Before you make a warm floor in a private house, you need to take into account all the nuances. The thickness of each layer is determined by the climatic conditions of the region, for colder areas thick layers of the cake are required, for the southern regions the layers can have a thickness of 2 to 5 cm. Careful compaction and alignment of the layers is the key to a better and more durable underfloor heating. For tamping underfloor heating layers on the ground with your own hands, you can use manual devices, however, a mechanized process allows you to achieve maximum efficiency.
special attention deserves a thermal insulation material. When deciding how to make a warm floor on the ground, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene plates with a density above 35 kg / m 3. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is also determined by the climatic conditions of the area. AT northern regions thermal insulation is laid with a thickness of 10 cm or more. At the same time, laying can be carried out in two layers with overlapping of the seams of the lower row with upper plates. The joints of the plates must be glued with adhesive tape.
A rather important point in the scheme for arranging a water-heated floor is waterproofing and thermal insulation of the foundation. It is supposed to treat the base surface with a waterproofing material before the start of all work. In addition, it is recommended to lay around the perimeter polystyrene boards, which will become an obstacle to the path of cold air inside.
How to make a warm floor on the ground with a high level of groundwater
At high level groundwater, it is necessary not only to correctly position the layers of the warm floor. It is very important at the same time to organize the diversion of water from the foundation.
For floors on the ground with a warm water floor, the level of which is located below the passage of groundwater, it is necessary to equip drainage. In this case, at least 30 cm below the floor level, a drainage system is made. Pour on the bottom river sand or loose soil mixed with crushed stone.
The material is poured in layers no more than 10 cm, each layer is abundantly moistened with water and carefully compacted. In most cases, three layers are enough, but you can add more if necessary. A geological textile is laid on top of the sand or soil, which prevents the penetration of water to the layers of the warm floor. Geotextile is modern material, characterized by high tensile strength, resistance to damage by rodents. In addition, it is able to compensate for the mechanical loads that will be exerted on the warm floor on the ground in a private house.
Features of the floor layer scheme
Also, one should not forget about the foundation, it can be treated with bituminous mastic or other waterproofing materials and impregnations. For thermal insulation, polystyrene foam boards are laid along the inner perimeter.
Then they act according to the scheme of the usual installation of a water-heated floor on the ground. Layers of sand and gravel fall asleep and a rough screed is poured. In this case, it is better not to use the option with a liquid solution of sand and cement. A reinforced rough screed is considered more reliable.
For waterproofing at a high location of groundwater, it is recommended to replace the polyethylene film with built-up waterproof materials or polymer membranes. The cost of these materials is higher, but the reliability and quality are at a high level.
Then do the fitting thermal insulation material and metallized hydrobarrier. The "warm floor" system is mounted according to the instructions. A metal reinforcing mesh is laid on top and the entire structure is poured with a concrete screed.
The completion of all work is the installation of the final floor covering.
Warm floor on the ground can be called complex design, the arrangement of which must be approached very responsibly. For greater reliability, a rough screed should be poured, in extreme cases, all layers should be carefully tamped.
The underfloor heating device itself is considered complex engineering challenge. If the floor is in direct contact with the ground and serves as part of fluid system heating, the probability of making a mistake increases significantly. Today we will talk about both the materials used and the phased device.
Laying a warm floor on the ground refers to complex engineering measures. This means that the contractor is responsible not only for the efficiency and long life of the heating system, but also for the normal behavior of the flooring under cyclic heating conditions. Therefore, act consistently and strictly follow the device technology recommendations.
Which pipes are suitable for underfloor heating
The first thing to do is to decide on the type of heat-conducting tubes. While the issue of acquisition desired type products, you will have time to carry out all the necessary preparatory work. In addition, you will know from the outset the system for fixing the pipes, and you will provide everything necessary for this.
So, let's start with the rejection of pipes that do not have such intended purpose as use in underfloor heating systems. Here we include metal-plastic polyethylene pipes connected by a system of press fittings and PPR pipes for soldering plastic plumbing. The former are not the best in terms of reliability, the latter do not conduct heat well and have high coefficients of thermal expansion.
Initially, a convenient and reliable mounting system for temporary pipe fastening is selected. It can also be a reinforcing mesh, to which the pipes will be tied with wire, but imagine installing in this way on an area of 100 m 2 or if suddenly several ties come off during the pouring of concrete. Therefore, a mounting underlay or rail system must be used. They are attached to the floor base while the pipes are not yet laid, then the pipes are fixed in the guides with clips or click-clamps.
The mounting system itself can be plastic or metal. There is not much difference in this, the only thing you need to pay attention to is how reliable the fixation is and whether the guides themselves can damage the pipes.
Finally, we decide on the material of the pipes. There are two types of products recommended for use in underfloor heating systems. For both, the mounting technology eliminates the influence of the human factor when bending and connecting.
Copper. Despite the increased cost, copper tubing is easy to install, soldering requires a bottle of flux and gas-burner. Copper the best way manifests itself in systems of "fast" underfloor heating, which works in parallel with radiators, but not on an ongoing basis. bend copper tubes are carried out according to the template, respectively, their break is extremely unlikely.
Polyethylene. This is a more common class of pipes. Polyethylene is practically not subject to fracture, but installation will require a special crimping Tools. Polyethylene can have different density, it is recommended not less than 70%. The presence of an internal oxygen barrier is also important: polyethylene poorly resists diffuse penetration of gases, while water in a pipe of this length can entrain significant amounts of oxygen from the external environment.
Soil preparation
When installing a warm floor on the ground, a “pie” is prepared, the thickness and filling of which are determined in individually. But these data are important already at the first stage of work, in order to deepen the earthen floor if necessary and not sacrifice the height of the room.
In general, the soil is removed 30–35 cm below the level of the planned floor covering, taken as the zero point. The surface is carefully leveled horizontal plane, the geotextile layer is backfilled with incompressible material, in most cases, PGS is used for this.
After careful manual tamping of the bedding, preparation is carried out with low-grade concrete. For additional thermal insulation, this layer may consist of lightweight expanded clay concrete. It is important that the surface be brought out into a common plane located below the zero mark by the thickness of the cake plus about 10–15 mm more.
The choice of insulation
A floor pie with water heating consists of a heater tightly sandwiched between two layers of cement-sand screed. A fairly narrow range of requirements is imposed on the insulation itself.
Mainly compressive strength is normalized. Extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 3% or more is ideal, as well as PIR and PUR boards as more fireproof. If desired, you can use mineral wool slabs of brand 225 according to GOST 9573–96. Cotton wool is often abandoned due to the complexity of its installation and the need to cover the insulation with a hydrobarrier (polyamide film). It is characteristic that the minimum thickness of the plate is 40 mm, while when installing a reflective screen made of XPS, the thickness of the latter rarely exceeds 20–25 mm.
Foam polymer materials also serve as a good barrier to moisture migrating from the soil; they do not require a waterproofing device. Many may be put off by the questionable safety of styrene-containing material or the price of more expensive boards with complete chemical inertness (PUR and PIR).
The thickness of the insulation is determined thermotechnical calculation. If the preparation used concrete with expanded clay as a filler, 10-15 mm XPS or 60 mm mineral wool will be sufficient. In the absence of insulated preparation, these values \u200b\u200bshould be increased by 50%.
Preparatory and accumulating screeds
It is very important that the insulation is tightly clamped between two ties and that any movement or vibration of it is excluded. The concrete preparation of the floor is leveled with a preparatory screed, then insulation boards are glued onto it using tile adhesive under the comb. All joints are sealed with glue. If mineral wool is used, the concrete preparation must first be covered with a layer of penetrating waterproofing.
The screed layer above the insulation should be so thick that its total thermal conductivity is at least 3-4 times lower than that of the thermal screen. In the general case, the thickness of the screed is about 1.5–2 cm from the final height of the ceilings, but you can freely “play” with this value to adjust the inertia of the warm floor. The main thing is to change the thickness of the insulation accordingly.
The top layer of the screed, subjected to heating, is poured after the walls are enclosed with a damper tape. The filling of the accumulative screed can, for convenience, be carried out in two stages. On the first one, about 15–20 mm is poured with reinforcement sparse mesh. It is convenient to move along the resulting plane and fix the pipe installation system, the remainder is poured to the zero level minus the thickness of the floor covering.
1 - compacted soil; 2- sand and gravel bedding; 3 - preparatory reinforced screed; 4 - hydrovapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - reinforcing mesh; 7 - floor heating pipes; 8 - cement-sand screed; nine - flooring; 10 - damper tape
System installation, proportions and loop pitch
The laying of underfloor heating pipes should be carried out according to a scheme previously thought out and drawn on the floor. If the room has a shape other than rectangular, its plan is divided into several rectangles, each of which is represented by a separate loop loop.
The same principle applies to floor zoning. For example, in play area tubes can be laid with more frequent steps, and it is advisable not to lay them under cabinet furniture at all. In each individual loop rectangular shape, depending on the priority of heating, the tubes can be laid either in a snake or a snail, or a combination of options. General rule simple: the farther a specific point is from the beginning of the duct, the lower its temperature, on average, there is a drop of 1.5–2.5 ºС every 10 meters, respectively, the optimal length of the loop is in the range of 50–80 meters.
The minimum distance between adjacent tubes is determined by the manufacturer according to the allowable bending radius. A denser gasket is possible according to the “snail” scheme or with the formation of wide loops at the edges of the snake. It is optimal to adhere to a distance equal to 20–30 values of the tube diameter. You also need to make allowances for the thickness of the storage screed and the desired floor heating rate.
The mounting system is attached along the route of laying through the insulation to the layer concrete preparation, respectively, the length of fasteners (usually these are plastic BM dowels) should be 50% more than the distance to the surface of the preparatory screed.
When laying the pipe, you should consider an improvised spool for unwinding, otherwise the pipe will constantly twist and break. When all loops are fastened in mounting system, they are tested with high pressure and, if the test results are satisfactory, the top layer of the accumulating screed is poured.
Inclusion of a warm floor in the heating system
It is recommended to lay whole pipe sections without joints in the screed layer. The tails of the loops can be reduced either to local collectors, or lead directly to the boiler room. The latter option is usually convenient when the heated floor is slightly removed from the boiler or if all rooms have common corridor, for which indirect heating is sufficient.
The ends of the pipes are rolled with an expander and connected by crimping or soldering with threaded fittings for connection to the collector node. Each outlet is supplied shutoff valves, on the supply tubes are installed Ball Valves with a red flywheel, on the return line - with a blue one. A threaded transition with shutoff valves is necessary for emergency shutdown of a separate loop, its purging or flushing.
An example of a scheme for connecting a water heated floor to a heating system: 1 - a heating boiler; 2- expansion tank; 3 - security group; 4 - collector; 5 - circulation pump; 6 - manifold cabinet for heating radiators; 7 - manifold cabinet of underfloor heating
The connection of collectors to the heating main is carried out by analogy with heating radiators, two-pipe and combined switching schemes are possible. In addition to the temperature controller, the collector units can be equipped with recirculation systems that support comfortable temperature coolant in the supply is about 35–40 ºС.
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Floors on the ground - universal way devices of a warm and reliable foundation in the house. And you can do them at any level of groundwater and the type of foundation. The only limitation is the house on stilts. In this article, we will describe in detail all the layers of the "floor pie" and show how to organize it yourself.
Concrete floors on the ground, imply no basements or gaps for ventilation in the underground.
At its core, this is a multi-layer cake. Where the bottom layer is the soil, and the top layer is the floor covering. At the same time, the layers have their purpose and a strict sequence.
There are no objective restrictions for organizing the floor on the ground. High groundwater is not a hindrance in this. Their only weakness– production time and financial costs. But on such floors you can put brick or block walls and even heavy equipment.
The correct "floor cake" on the ground
The classic floor cake on the ground implies the presence of 9 layers:
- prepared clay;
- sand cushion;
- crushed stone;
- Polyethylene film;
- Rough concreting;
- Waterproofing;
- insulation;
- Finishing screed;
- Flooring.
We deliberately did not indicate the thickness of each layer, so as not to put some strict restrictions. Below, approximate values \u200b\u200band the factors influencing it will be indicated. But first we would like to point out the very important point: groundwater levels can change dramatically in a relatively short period of time.
In our practice, there were cases when, within 5-7 years, dry semi-basements and cellars in private houses had to be filled up, because groundwater completely flooded the underground premises. At the same time, such a phenomenon was observed not in one separate house, but immediately in the whole block of private buildings (40-60 houses).
Experts explain similar phenomena, improper drilling of wells under water. Such actions lead to mixing of aquifer lenses, fracturing and alteration of aquifers. Moreover, they can drill a well far enough from your home. So be careful about the purpose of each layer of the floor cake on the ground and do not think that there are extra elements here.
- prepared clay. The purpose of this layer is to stop groundwater. In general, the three lower layers of the floor cake are for this purpose. Of course, if you, removing the fertile layer, have reached the layer of clay, then you don’t need to bring and fill it up, only a little preparation is required. But more about that in due time.
- Sand. There are no special requirements for sand. You can use any, for example career and not even washed.
- Rubble. Large, fraction 40-60 mm.
These three layers are responsible for cutting off the capillary rise of water. A layer of clay cuts off the main access, sand weakens the capillary water rise and weakens the pressure of the upper layers, and crushed stone does not allow water to rise in principle. At the same time, each layer must be rammed. The thickness of each layer is at least 10 cm. Otherwise, it makes no sense to fill it up. But the maximum height should be explained in more detail. The fact is that tamping is most often done makeshift gadgets. The weight of such instruments is 3-5 pounds.
It has already been empirically proven that to compact a layer of rubble, sand or clay more than 20 cm. hand tool impossible. Therefore, the thickness of one of the first three layers maximum - 20 cm. But, if you need to make the floor cake higher, then tamping can be carried out in two stages. First, 15-20 cm of sand are poured and rammed well. Then another layer of the same thickness is poured, and rammed again.
The order of occurrence of clay-sand-gravel layers cannot be changed. The reason here lies in the fact that if sand is poured on top of rubble, then after some time it will seep through it. Which in turn will lead to subsidence and destruction of the concrete layer, and then the deformation of the entire floor.
- Polyethylene film. Be sure to take the film with a sleeve, and fit without cutting. That is, there will actually be two layers of polyethylene. It is intended solely to prevent the solution from draining from concrete into rubble.
- Rough concreting. The minimum layer thickness is 8 cm. Sand can be taken from a quarry, but it must be washed. But crushed stone is required with a fraction of 10-20 mm. This layer will be the basis for the final part of the floor on the ground. Dispersed steel fiber reinforcement is recommended.
- . When done correctly preliminary work, an ordinary roofing material without powder can cope with waterproofing. If in doubt, you can lay the roofing material in two layers.
- Thermal insulation. It is recommended to use only Extruded Polystyrene Foam (EPS) here. The thickness should be determined depending on the region and climatic conditions. But we do not recommend the use of XPS with a thickness of less than 50 mm.
- Finishing stitch. Depending on the project, underfloor heating pipes or electrical underfloor heating cables can be integrated into it. Sand is used only river. This layer must be reinforced. Dispersed reinforcement with steel fiber is possible. The thickness of the screed is at least 50 mm.
- Flooring. Concrete floors on the ground, organized in a private house in this way, have no restrictions on the use of flooring.
Do-it-yourself flooring on the ground
Before starting work, calculate the depth of excavation. The calculation is carried out in reverse order. That is, the threshold is taken as zero front door. Then begin to summarize the thickness of each layer. For example:
- Linoleum - 1 cm;
- Finishing screed - 5 cm;
- Insulation - 6 cm;
- Rough screed - 8 cm;
- Crushed stone - 15 cm;
- Sand - 15 cm;
- Prepared clay - 10 cm.
The total depth turned out to be 60 cm. But keep in mind that we took minimum values. And each building is different. Important: add 5 cm of depth to the result obtained for you.
Excavation is carried out to the estimated depth. Of course, that the fertile layer will be removed, but clay may not always be at the bottom. Therefore, we will describe the process of organizing a floor cake on the ground in full.
Before filling the layers, draw with chalk, at all corners of the foundation, level marks in 5 cm increments. They will facilitate the task of leveling each layer.
Soil compaction
For these purposes, any clay will do. It crumbles in an even layer, and is abundantly moistened before tamping. aqueous solution liquid glass. The proportions of the solution are 1 tsp of liquid glass and 4 tsp of water.
For compacting the first three layers, you can use a one and a half meter piece of timber 200x200. But the process will be better if you make a special fixture. To do this, a piece of channel is welded in a T-shaped manner to a one and a half meter piece of a metal pipe. The lower part of the channel should not have an area of more than 600 cm 2 (20 by 30 cm). To make the rammer heavier, sand is poured into the pipe.
The compacted layer of prepared clay is well moistened with cement milk. For its preparation, 2 kg of cement is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Make sure that no puddles form on the surface of the clay. That is, it should be fairly even.
Almost immediately after the contact of cement with liquid glass, the chemical process of crystallization begins. It passes quickly enough, but during the day it should not be disturbed in any way crystal formation. Therefore, do not walk on clay, but rather leave work for a day for a technological break.
The main layers of the "floor pie"
Sand. After a day, you should start filling the sand. At the same time, try not to walk on the first layer. Pour in the sand and step on it. Chemical processes between liquid glass and cement will go another week and a half. But air access is no longer needed for this, and water is present in the clay. Having poured a layer of 15 cm, boldly step on it and tamp.
Rubble. Spreads evenly over the surface of the sand and is also rammed. Pay attention to the corners. It is very important that after tamping the surface is as even as possible.
Polyethylene film. Laid with an overlap of 10 cm and glued with adhesive tape. A small, 2-3 cm bend on the walls is allowed. You can walk on the film in soft shoes with extreme caution. remember, that polyethylene film, it is not , but only technological layer to prevent the flow of cement laitance into crushed stone.
Rough concreting. Preparing "lean concrete" in next proportion: cement M500 - 1 hour + sand 3 hours + crushed stone 4 hours. For dispersed reinforcement, steel fiber should be added at the rate of 1 kg. fibers per 1 cube of concrete. Try to level the freshly poured mortar, guided by the corner marks. On a more even surface, it will subsequently be more convenient to lay layers of waterproofing and insulation.
48 hours after pouring, the concrete must be hardened. This will require a solution of liquid glass in water (1:10) and cement. First, the solution is passed over the entire surface. You can use a roller, or you can use a spray gun. Then concrete is powdered with a thin layer and immediately begins to be rubbed into the cement into the surface. It is most convenient to do this with grout.
This procedure increases the strength of concrete by an order of magnitude, and in combination with liquid glass makes it as waterproof as possible. Concrete will mature within a month and a half, but work can begin on the next stage in a week.
Warming and waterproofing
To create a waterproofing layer, the floor surface is cleaned and treated with liquid bitumen. The roofing material is overlapped, with an allowance of 3-5 cm. The joints are carefully soldered with building hair dryer. Wall allowance 5 cm. IMPORTANT: Make sure that the roofing material adheres to the corners, do not leave voids. The second layer of roofing material is laid with an offset of half the width of the roll. During waterproofing work, it is best to walk on the surface in shoes with soft soles (sneakers, galoshes).
For thermal insulation, the most the best way- extruded polystyrene foam. A layer of XPS 5 cm thick replaces 70 cm of expanded clay. And additionally, XPS has a practically zero water absorption coefficient and a rather high compressive strength. We recommend laying 3 cm thick XPS in two layers. In this case, the laying of the top layer is carried out with an offset. This method guarantees the absence of cold bridges and increases the heat-insulating properties of the floor cake. The joints between the XPS boards are glued with special adhesive tape.
Proper thermal insulation of the floor cake is an extremely important component for the energy efficiency of the whole house as a whole. Up to 35% of heat escapes through the floors! Even if the floors themselves will not produce heat (warm floors), they must be thermally insulated as much as possible. This will allow you to save on heating in the future quite impressive amounts.
Floor screed
Glue along the room, 15-20 mm thick. In this case, the lower part must be glued to the XPS boards. To reinforce the floor on the ground in residential premises, a masonry mesh with cells of 100x100 mm is used. Wire thickness 3 mm. The grid must be placed on the supports so that it is approximately in the middle of the screed layer. To do this, it is placed on special stands. But you can use ordinary corks from PET bottles.
The installation of beacons is possible, but in combination with reinforcing mesh, this will create a rather bulky and extremely fragile structure. After all, if the mesh is rigidly fastened, this will require additional costs for fastening and it will be necessary to violate the integrity of the XPS. And if the reinforcement is not fixed, then it can easily change the levels of the beacons. Therefore, it will be more convenient to pour this layer and then level it with a self-leveling screed.
For the finishing screed, the solution is diluted in the proportion of 1 part M500 cement + 3 parts river sand. Work is carried out promptly. For rough leveling of the surface, you can focus on the corner marks.
After pouring the finishing screed, it must be allowed to gain strength within 3-5 days. With a thickness of 5 cm, the maturation period of this layer will be 4-5 weeks. During this time, regular wetting of the surface with water is required.
Acceleration of the cement hydration process is unacceptable! After about a month, you can check the degree of readiness. To do this, in the evening they take a roll of dry toilet paper, put it on the floor and cover it with a pan on top. If in the morning toilet paper will be dry, or slightly damp, then the layer is ready. You can level the floor with a self-leveling screed.
Self-leveling screed is spread according to the manufacturer's instructions and poured onto the surface of the concrete floor. With scrupulous performance of work, height differences do not exceed 8-10 mm. Therefore, a minimum amount of self-levelling screed is required. It dries pretty quickly. And after 1-2 days, the floor cake on the ground will be completely ready for laying the flooring.
In your home, you may need a water heated floor on the ground. Subject to compliance with the existing SNiP, you can do the work yourself, starting from backfilling and ending with a final screed, followed by finishing with a floor covering.
Is it possible to make a water floor on the ground
A pie of a water-heated floor on the ground can be performed provided that the method of installing a heating system using concrete screed. Laying allows you to simultaneously achieve several goals: to make a rough floor and prepare the base for the finish coat.The design of a water heated floor on the ground provides for the work that is usually used for cooking concrete slab in industrial and residential buildings. The result of the work largely depends on the achievement of several tasks:
- Providing reliable thermal insulation that prevents freezing of the floor.
- Protection of the premises from the appearance of dampness.
- Prevention of cracking of the slab after several years of operation.
What "pie" should be under the warm floor
The layout of the floor on the ground is somewhat different from the usual pie used to install the heating system on an already prepared base. The following stages of work are carried out:
To make a water floor on the ground with your own hands, it will take time from 20 days to 1.5 months. You can speed up the installation process by ordering ready-made cement mixtures.
The main mistakes when installing a water floor on the ground
When performing work on bulk soil, it is easy to make mistakes that lead to the destruction of the slab in the future. Requires strict adherence phased production floor water heating pie, starting from the ground. It would be optimal to preliminarily perform a heat engineering calculation that allows you to accurately determine the thickness of the powder, thermal insulation and the power of the heating system.
Common mistakes during installation are:
- Violations of the technology of installing a warm water floor on the ground. The lack of expansion gaps in the slab, poorly performed work on tamping the powder, improperly laid waterproofing, subsequently become the cause of freezing of the screed, accumulation of condensate and dampness in the room.
- Be sure to sprinkle sand on the soil base before crushed stone. In this case, any type of raw material can be used, but coarse river sand will be optimal. The minimum soil density after compaction depends on the weather and atmospheric conditions of the area and is calculated according to special tables.
