The earthen floor of the bath. Repair of the floor in the bath: replacement, installation, useful tips. Cold floor - design features

Performs several important functions. First of all, it ensures the safe movement of people. The steam room is always humid. Therefore, the floor must be non-slip so that visitors do not get injured. Also under the base of the premises are sewer communications. The floor should be equipped so that the water is discharged as efficiently as possible. In this case, coverage and all Decoration Materials inside the steam room will last much longer.

To equip the floor in the bath room correctly, you need to read the recommendations experienced builders. In this case, you will be able to do all the work yourself.

materials

Considering how to make a floor in a steam room, should start with the choice of material. There are two main options. In the first case, the floor is created from wood, and in the second from concrete. Everyone chooses for himself the best type of material.

The concrete floor will require more time and effort. It is also a more expensive type of material. However, the service life of a concrete floor is more than 50 years. It is believed that it is easier to equip a floor made of wood. Such material is cheaper. In this case, the work is done faster and easier.

Operated for 7-8 years. Despite such a short duration of operation of the material, in most cases, masters prefer this particular option. It is quite possible to mount a wooden coating yourself.

Choice of wood

The quality finish of the steam room depends on right choice wood. This material must be well dried. Boards should not have defects, cracks or chips. Also, the presence of traces of decay is not allowed.

Deciduous wood species are preferable for a steam room. It is believed that such material has different action on the human body. For example, birch is able to energize bath visitors, and aspen, on the contrary, removes negative emotions.

Birch is considered one of the the best materials for finishing the steam room. She handles well protective compounds. Larch is also considered one of the best options for a bath. it durable material. It tolerates temperature extremes, high humidity.

With proper processing, linden can also be used for decoration. Shelves in the steam room are also made from the listed materials, they create decoration for the ceiling and walls.

Leaking floor

Which gets off with wood, can be of two types. The first option involves the presence of gaps between the boards. The accumulated moisture will simply flow down. The second version of the floor in the steam room is called non-leaking. It is a bit more complicated to set up.

A leaky floor is the simplest finish option. There are gaps in the flooring through which water seeps into the soil. Sewerage in this case is not equipped. Only in the underground space is a drainage pit created. Sometimes it is replaced by a special container that communicates with sewer communications. Floor insulation in the steam room also don't.

The presented version of the floor is suitable only for the southern regions and buildings that are operated exclusively in the summer. Boards in this case are not nailed to the lags. They are periodically removed and taken out into the street. Here they are dried and returned to their original place.

Leak-proof floor

Bath, the steam room of which is created in accordance with all building codes, must be impermeable. When creating its floor, the boards are laid in two rows. First, a rough flooring is installed on the logs. On top of it spread hardwood sheet piled wood.

There are no gaps between the boards in this case. A layer of insulation is laid under the floor. The finish coating should have a slight slope to the place of drainage. A hole with a siphon is equipped here to divert water into the sewer.

To prevent the appearance of deflections in the wooden covering over time, supports are installed in the middle of the lag system. They can be brick, concrete. It is also allowed to use wood for similar purposes.

Arrangement of the underground

Needs proper arrangement of the space under it. If a leaky floor is created, the filtration properties of the soil are evaluated first. If there is sand under the base of the bath, it will be enough to fill it with gravel. The layer should be about 25 cm. The gravel will clean up the drains before they enter directly into the ground. There must be a distance of at least 10 cm between the backfill and the lags.

If there are loamy soils and clay under the leaking bath, you will need to install a tray to drain the water into the sewer. To do this, a clay castle is created under the floor. It should have a slope towards the sewer.

If the bath is not leaking, the base is covered with expanded clay. There should be a distance of at least 15 cm between it and the lags. This is necessary to create proper ventilation.

Beginning of work

The device of the floor in the steam room involves the installation of a log. They rest on a foundation. A similar design is typical for almost all. Creating a foundation and a sewerage system under the floor allows you to meet the requirements of sanitary and hygienic standards. Otherwise, the room eventually appears bad smell and the wood floor is destroyed.

After arranging the foundation, it is necessary to install logs on it. If the area of the steam room is large, you will need to build additional bedside tables. They will help reduce the gaps between the lags.

For the arrangement of the subfloor choose wood hard rock. It is also allowed to use slabs or thick boards for these purposes. With the help of self-tapping screws or by grooving, the rough flooring is attached to the beams. Next, a heat-insulating layer is necessarily equipped.

Insulation installation

In the steam room, it is necessary to have thermal insulation. In this case, the heating of the room will occur faster. Heat loss is significantly reduced. This allows you to save on energy resources.

The modern market for heaters offers many varieties of materials. They differ in cost and technical characteristics. Mineral wool is best suited for arranging the floor in the bath. This is an environmentally friendly material. It is able to reliably isolate the room, not letting heat out.

In order for the thermal insulation and the entire structure of the wooden floor to last for a long time, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation. To do this, you can purchase glassine, roofing material or a polymer membrane.

Finished floor laying

The floor in the steam room is equipped immediately after the installation of the rough base, mineral wool and waterproofing. To do this, prepare grooved boards. Their thickness should not be less than 3 cm.

The boards must not be laid too tightly. If moisture gets on them, the material will swell. If there is not enough room for linear expansion, the wood will lead. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended to leave small gaps between the boards on the finish surface.

It is also important to consider the direction of annual rings. At adjacent boards, they should look in different sides. With this mounting technique, it is possible to achieve high rate evenness of the coating.

All trim elements must be installed with the convex side up. In this case, the floor will be strong and reliable.

Final stage

At the final stage, wood processing is carried out special solutions. There are many such options available for sale. the master decides for himself. It should be an antiseptic that will prevent the appearance of fungus and decay on the floor surface. This solution is also treated with two side and bottom side of the boards.

When laying a finishing coating, it is important to make a slope towards the drain hole. After that, you can carry out scraping and installation of skirting boards. You can remove irregularities on the surface of the coating manually. However, it is more expedient to use an electric planer for these purposes. Before starting such work, it is necessary to check whether nails stick out on the surface of the floor.

Wall and ceiling decoration

After arranging the floor, Finishing work walls, ceiling, a door to the steam room and shelves are installed. In this case, it is also allowed to use wood, lining. She finishes the ceiling and walls. A layer of insulation and waterproofing is also installed under the front cover. You should not purchase polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam for such purposes. In a steam room, such heaters will release substances that are unsafe for the human body.

It should be remembered that it is impossible to finish the ceiling and walls in the steam room with plastic, wood paneling, chipboard, plywood, etc. Also, coniferous wood species are not suitable for these purposes. They will release resin when heated. This will cause burns.

Cover the lining in the bath by special means Not recommended. Lacquer, stain or other similar coatings, when heated, will emit harmful substances, there will be an unpleasant odor. Being in such a room would be simply unbearable.

Interior arrangement

After finishing the ceiling and walls, it is necessary to install the door to the steam room. It can be made of special heat-resistant glass or wood. The first option is preferable. Glass allows you to create a stylish look inside the steam room.

Should be in multiple rows. To create them, hardwoods are used. The surface of the material must be well polished. It should not have defects, chips. It is also unacceptable that metal caps of carnations protrude on the surface of the shelves. At elevated temperatures, this may cause burns.

An important element is the oven. There are many for sale various models. The stove can be wood-burning or have an electric heating element. Each owner chooses for himself the best option. Some owners prefer to build it from bricks right on the spot. It is easier for others to purchase ready-made furnaces made of steel or cast iron. An electric heating element does not imply the possibility of dousing hot stones with water. If the owners like a bath with high humidity, they should give preference to a traditional stone oven.

Room finishing options

Experts recommend not to use too much wood when decorating the interior of the bath. The steam room looks original, in which the lining is combined with tiles, plexiglass, natural stone. If you wish, you can ask for help from professional designer. He will develop original project interior. It will be pleasant for all visitors to be in such a room.

Must be tasteful. You should also pay attention to the choice of fixtures. There should be enough light in the steam room. Plafonds can be from natural wood or other heat-resistant materials.

It is very important to provide a ventilation hole inside the bath. Airing will avoid the appearance of dampness, pathogens. However, do ventilation window inside the steam room is useless. It is best to equip it in a dressing room or washing room. The steam room is ventilated when the door is opened.

After considering the technology, how the floor in the steam room is arranged, the interior decoration and decoration takes place, each owner country house will be able to independently equip the bath correctly.

Arrangement of the floor in a private steam room should be given Special attention. The level of comfort during use and the functionality of the bath itself depend on how competently its design is thought out and implemented.

Materials for arranging floors in the steam room - what to use?

The floor base in the bath performs several important functions at once. It not only ensures the safety of human movement during water procedures, but is also part of the water removal system. A properly constructed floor in the bath does not wear out ahead of time, does not rot due to high humidity, and effectively retains heat in the room. In private steam rooms, the foundations we are interested in are most often made of wood and concrete. Brick coatings are used much less frequently. They are expensive and quite difficult to arrange with your own hands.

If you want to build a capital bath room made of stone or brick with a rest room, washing department, dressing room and use it all year round, experts advise opting for a concrete base. Its in without fail it is necessary to provide a well-thought-out water drainage system and effective waterproofing. But for small bathhouses, operated exclusively in the summer, simpler wooden floors will do. They are built much faster and easier, are environmentally friendly, have a very presentable appearance.

Wooden bases have been used for a very long time. They create special comfort in the steam room, saturate the room with pleasant natural flavors, make each bathing procedure a small holiday for the true Russian soul. True, there are many disadvantages of wooden floors. The durability of such structures leaves much to be desired. No matter how hard you try to protect wood from the harmful effects of water, it will quickly lose its initial performance characteristics. Therefore, be prepared for the fact that after a while you will have to re-lay the wooden floors in the steam room.

Concrete structures are much more preferable in terms of durability. They are not afraid of water and steam, temperature changes.

Concrete products withstand even the most difficult conditions operation. On average, such foundations are used for 40–45 years without additional repairs. We immediately note the obvious disadvantages of concrete coatings. They are very cold (for this reason, a suitable finishing material, for example, a tile, is laid on top of them), time-consuming to install with your own hands, require a serious investment of time and financial resources.

Concrete foundation - we build for centuries!

The floor for a bath made of concrete, in fact, is an ordinary screed. It is made from a solution in which there is sand, cement and some special fillers (crushed stone, natural marble chips, gravel and others). We advise you not to bother mixing the required ingredients to obtain concrete composition, and immediately purchase the finished mixture at the nearest construction store. Factory sand-cement compositions in dry form are completely ready for use. They only need to be diluted with ordinary water in the recommended volume, thoroughly mixed with a perforator with a nozzle, and then used for its intended purpose.

If the screed will serve as a finishing floor covering, or a simple board flooring will be mounted on it, there is no need to add any special components to the purchased mixture. For cases where over concrete pavement it is planned to lay tiles, it is advisable to add a little anhydrite with gypsum to the cement-sand composition. It is even easier to buy a self-levelling compound designed specifically for such cases.

The concrete base for the bath can be mounted on logs or directly on the ground. The first stage of work is the arrangement of an elementary system for removing water. It consists of an intermediate tank (this role is usually played by a small hole 0.4x0.4x0.3 m dug in the ground) and two pipes. The walls and bottom of the pit should be concreted and a tubular product with a cross section of 20 cm should be brought to it. Its second end is led out into autonomous septic tank on site or in a sewer. We start another pipe from the pit into the bathhouse. It is desirable to provide this part of the system with a valve that prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors into the steam room.

Next, prepare the platform for the screed. We remove the top layer of soil, pour sand into the resulting pit, ram it, pour brick or gravel on top. We should get a layer of about 0.25 m. Add 10 cm of crushed stone on top. Once again we ram the whole cake and fill it with a sand-cement mixture (about 5-6 cm thick). An important nuance! The concrete layer must have a slight slope towards the reservoir pit.

When the solution hardens, lay on it mineral wool or polystyrene (you can pour a layer of expanded clay, perlite). These materials play a role effective insulation. Under the foam and cotton wool, we must put waterproofing (it is most reasonable to use roofing material). We cover the thermal insulation with the same material. Then we mount metal mesh(wire). It makes it possible to perform high-quality reinforcement.

Now you can pour the main screed. We serve the solution from the far corner and gradually approach the exit from the steam room. When pouring, the composition is necessarily leveled (you need to work with an assistant). This operation is performed with a trowel. And to tighten the concrete in a circular motion, we use the rule. After 2-3 days, the screed will harden. It can be laid flooring from boards or tiles. We mount the trim with a two-centimeter slope towards the drain. If the concrete is planned to be used as a finishing coating (you can do so), just carefully level and grind its surface. But remember that such a floor in private bath will be cold. In winter, it is problematic to use a steam room with it.

Leaking wood floor - acceptable quality with minimal labor

You can make a floor in a wooden bath using two technologies. The first involves the construction of leaking foundations, the second - non-leaking. Advice. If the experience of doing construction works you have a small one, it is better to build leaking floors. They are made in the form of flooring from boards, between which gaps are specially left. Through them, the used water goes into the ground. Insulation of such structures is not carried out, the sewer system is not being built. Instead of the latter, a simple drainage pit is used. They dig it under the bath.

You can make a floor in a bath of this type according to the following algorithm:

1. We level a piece of land, fill it with a layer of gravel, which should be well compacted.
2. We prepare wooden logs (we cut them to the required dimensions, apply an antiseptic composition) and support pillars for them.
3. We mount the processed logs on the supports, keeping the distance between separate elements at the level of 0.5 m.
4. Stacking boardwalk. We leave gaps of 2-3 mm between the wall of the bath, the floor and the boards to be mounted.

It is not necessary to fix the flooring elements to the lags. The described coating is recommended to be regularly removed and taken out under the sun to dry. If necessary, at any time it is possible to replace rotten boards. The service life of the described floor structure is 4–6 years. Then you have to build a new one. Such leaking floors are best used in the country, where you visit from time to time and rarely use the steam room.

There is another way to arrange simple boardwalks. It is less difficult to implement. After preparing the plot of land, bars-beams with a section of 10x10 to 15x15 cm should be placed around the perimeter of the foundation. Be sure to apply an antiseptic on them! We install logs on the beams, fix them, and on top we mount the flooring from the boards.

Leaking floors of both types can be constructed from hardwood and softwood. It is not recommended to install Oak planks. They become very slippery when wet. It is better to opt for products made of pine, linden or larch. The last option is considered the most optimal. One more nuance. The flooring is made from planed edged boards 4–5 cm thick. Thinner products in high humidity conditions will not last long.

Non-leaking wood floor - environmentally friendly and quite reliable

Now let's try to properly make a non-leaking base. It will take more time to build such a structure. But the result of the work will be of better quality. Leak-proof wooden floors are suitable for year-round steam rooms. The design of such bases requires the arrangement of a rough intermediate coating and the mandatory installation of a heat-insulating layer. Due to this, the service life of such structures reaches 10–12 years.

We build a non-leaking floor in the bath according to the following step-by-step guide:

1. We make a hole-reservoir, we lay pipes for drains by analogy with the arrangement of drainage for concrete pavements.
2. We prepare the site. We remove the layer of earth, fill the cleaned area with sand and gravel. Each layer of material is rammed. If desired, pour a concrete screed (5–6 cm). This part of the operation is optional. If you want to save time and money, skip it.
3. We cover the floor base with a waterproofing layer. The best moisture protector this case becomes ruberoid.
4. We perform insulation using polystyrene foam or expanded clay. Mineral wool is not used for thermal insulation of non-leaking bases.
5. We install logs with a step of 0.5 m on pre-mounted beams. For the manufacture of the latter, you need to use bars 10x20 cm. These supports, as you remember, are fastened along the perimeter of the foundation.

Then we mount the intermediate base. We fix the draft floor from the bottom of the beams. We cover it with an additional heat-insulating layer (mounted on roofing material). We lay another layer on top of the insulation waterproofing material. Last stage works - installation of a finishing floor. We install it with a slope, we lay the boards close to each other. To the lags top coat fastened with nails or screws.

We take boards for non-leaking floors, tongue-and-groove, 3–5 cm thick. We make logs from wooden blocks with dimensions of 5x7 cm. Pay attention! The lower edge of the floor base made of wood must rise 10–20 cm above the level of the basement (its upper edge) of the bath. We hope that our instructions will help you build a truly reliable floor in your steam room.

Installation of floors in the bath is one of the most critical stages of construction. In most cases, the floors are wooden or concrete-based. And a qualitative solution to the problem related to how to lay the floors in the bath will determine the quality of the reception of bath procedures and the durability of both the floor itself and the bath as a whole.

Let's find out how the floors in the bath can be equipped with their own hands.

Wooden floor

Wood flooring can be non-leaking and leaking. For each of them, the installation instructions are different.

Installation of non-leaking floors

The most simple design gender and the procedure is as follows:

Floor beams are usually mounted during the laying of a log house, cutting them into the first row of beams or logs.. Usually they rest on the foundation if it is a strip foundation or masonry between the pillars in the case of a column foundation.
If this has not been done, then the beams can be cut even after the construction of the walls and roof. Or make the floor in the bath rooms independent of the foundation and walls. It will not affect how to lay the floor in the bath.
In this case, separate columns must be laid out under the floor beams. They are made in the same way as the foundation columns.

Attention: The top level of the posts should not be higher than the level of the foundation.
Yes, and below is undesirable, this will allow us to solve many problems in the future.

Boards are solidly nailed to the floor beams from below, or bars of 50x50 mm are nailed in the lower part of the sides of the beams. A draft floor is laid on these bars.

After that, a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the draft boards..
One or two are placed on the vapor barrier. It can be mineral wool or basalt wool insulation.
Then another layer of vapor barrier spreads.

A grooved floorboard is laid on top of the beams.

If such floors are made for a steam room or washing room, then the floor surface should have a slight slope, about 2 cm per meter of distance along the floor.

This slope should be towards a wall or towards a special water receiver built into the floor. For a steam room, it is best to use hardwood, they are softer and do not emit harmful resins at high temperatures.

Speaking about how to lay the floor in a bathhouse (), such a slope is not necessary, and the material for these rooms can be any: both coniferous and deciduous.

Installation of leaking floors

Such floors are laid only in the steam room and washing room, that is, where water drainage is necessary. Before laying the floor in this type of bath, it is necessary to prepare the soil under the future flooring.

In order to mount a leaking floor, do the following:

The ground inside the room is leveled, and a layer of sand is poured on it and compacted so that as a result this layer becomes approximately 10 cm.
Then a layer of crushed stone is poured - 10 cm.
A concrete screed is made from above, while creating a slope towards the water receiver. Water should be discharged either into a septic tank, or further from the bath into the ground, which should absorb water well.
At the end of the pipe that drains water, it is necessary to mount a special lock that does not let odors into the bath.
Boards or narrow slats are mounted on the beams, so that there is a gap of one to two centimeters between them.

Attention: Wood must be treated with special compounds to extend the life of the material.

bulk floors

Having considered the previous two methods, it becomes clear that there is free space for the floor beams. As a result, in winter it is quite cool in the lower part of the room, and good insulation is required.

But you can do otherwise, and when deciding how to lay the floors in the bath, you can avoid laying insulation or cold air in case of leaking floors.

It is done like this:

Floor beams are not installed at all.
A layer of sand, approximately 15-20 cm, is covered and rammed onto the ground.
Either crushed stone or expanded clay is poured onto the sand, also with a layer of 15-20 cm, it is also leveled and rammed.

A concrete screed is poured from above within 10 cm.

wooden floors

Wooden logs are laid on the screed, on which the tongue-and-groove floorboards are already mounted. And in the same way, if it is a steam room or a washing room, then a slope is made to drain the water. If this is a rest room or dressing room, then there is no need to tilt.

Ceramic tile floor

You can do it differently, you can put it very well on even concrete ceramic tiles. Using tile adhesive and tiles, a very durable, strong and reliable floor can be installed.

Attention: A special, non-slippery tile should be used for the floor in the bath, in order to avoid falls.

In conditions of high temperatures, such as in a steam room. It makes sense to lay cork mats or a lattice of wooden blocks on the floor.

Compared to wooden floors, concrete-based floors have the advantage of being less expensive and having a much longer service life. But concrete and tile floors cannot create an atmosphere of peace and comfort in the bath.

The situation in the bath with wooden floors, the same walls allows you to get a good rest, so before laying the floor in the bath, you should think carefully about what will be more useful, not cheaper.

Floor replacement

Nothing is eternal, and no matter how much we would like, but often a situation arises related to how to change the floor in the bath.

There may be several reasons:

The old floor has fallen into disrepair.
It does not perform the functions of water drainage.
He just got bored.
The floor is cold, slippery, etc.

And here, first of all, you need to look at what is available and what you want to receive. Most often, the old coating is completely removed and an analysis is made of what remains under it.

Depending on the diagnosis, either everything is removed, after which the floor is installed as new. Either done redecorating and new flooring is being installed.

Possible option complete replacement one floor type to another. Then, too, everything old is removed and everything new is mounted.

Conclusion

The floor in the bath has the same important function as the walls and ceiling. And it largely depends temperature regime indoors and how comfortable it is to be in this room without shoes. Therefore, it is important to correctly, in compliance with all stages, install the floor elements and lay the floor covering.

Our portal can provide you with additional information on this topic, as well as on issues related to construction and repair.

It is difficult to imagine a Russian person who has not been in a bath or has no idea about it. The ancestors honored the steam room not only because it was possible to wash off the dirt there. Banya was credited healing properties visiting her healed both the soul and the body. Of course, today it does not lose popularity. In many cases, the owners of the land themselves are involved in the construction of the building on the site, since this option allows you to make construction less expensive. And then there are many questions regarding materials. In particular, the floor in the bath is of interest. From what and by what technology can it be made?

Floor types

Before disassembling the main materials, we can and should say a few words about the design. The technology of work itself is quite simple, but it depends on what kind of floor is made: leaking or not leaking. The difference between the two is that a leaky floor has the ability to let water through, it just seeps through it. Therefore, in a bath with a non-leaking floor dirty water drains into the sewer. To do this, the floor is made with a slight slope towards the drain hole. What would be the best way to do it?

Advice! Experts recommend equipping a leaking floor in the bath. Make it easier, and the efficiency of draining water is higher. Water drained into the sewer in a non-flowing field can stagnate. This causes the materials to rot and may cause the floor to cool.

Traditionally, the floors in the bath are made of wood, but in recent times concrete was used for these purposes. Both materials have their own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. Based on these nuances, you can decide what is better to make the floor in specific situation.

concrete floors

So, let's say it was decided to make the floor in the bath of concrete. What should you know about this material?

Advantages and disadvantages

First, it is worth noting the durability of the material and its resistance to decay. Wooden floors, as a rule, serve three times less than self-leveling ones. Secondly, caring for such a floor is much easier. Thirdly, the dense structure of concrete prevents the free circulation of air. In this case, this is important, because the greatest heat loss in the cold season occurs precisely through the floor.

As for the shortcomings, then everything is quite simple. Firstly, if you make a self-leveling floor in the bath, then you need to be prepared for significant investments. Secondly, the process of arrangement will be quite laborious. And, of course, the gray unattractive surface must be decorated in order to give the bath a cozy look.

Finishing

Finishing the concrete floor can be done by the most various materials: tiles, cork, wood. For laying tiles, self-leveling floors are necessarily made, otherwise the coating will be uneven.

Important! Tile used for the floor in the bath should be with special anti-slip notches. Otherwise, the floor will be slippery, injuries on such a coating are much easier to get.

In some cases, to save money, it is proposed to lay ordinary wooden pallets, which will cover the unsightly self-leveling floor. Here it is important to pay attention to their quality, since the most simple options may cause splinters.

Warming

Self-leveling floors themselves are quite cold, so it is recommended to insulate them. To do this, perlite is added to the concrete, or a pipe system is mounted. warm floors. Also, to give the necessary strength, it will be necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh.

Summing up, we can say that a concrete floor, self-leveling or made by simple pouring, is a very good option for a bath. And, if possible, it should be preferred.

wooden floors

Wood for a bath is a classic that will never lose its relevance. And let the tree serve less than the self-leveling floor, it gives more comfort. It is this material that allows you to mount a leaking floor, which has already been mentioned above.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the advantages it should be noted:

Environmental friendliness;
Less labor input;
Appearance that does not require finishing;
lower cost.

The disadvantages are:

Shorter service life compared to concrete;
Difficulty in cleaning
The need to treat wood with antifungal compounds.

wood species

In order for the floor in the bath to be not only environmentally friendly, but also reliable, it is important to choose the right type of wood. Professionals advise using pine or spruce, which have antibacterial properties and, when heated, saturate the air with a fresh coniferous aroma. Excellent performance characteristics of larch. She is not afraid of moisture, while she can be an excellent competitor valuable breeds tree. And all thanks to the appearance, which is quite original.

Interesting! Oak, which belongs to one of the most durable and beautiful species, is not recommended for use in a bath. The fact is that oak boards in high humidity can be slippery and fraught with danger.

Selection rules

To choose the right boards for the floor, it is important to consider the basic recommendations. When buying, you should focus on:

Hardness. The higher the density of wood, the more resistant it is to wear. And this, in turn, indicates the duration of the service life.
Shrinkage. This indicator is also called stability. The higher the stability (lower shrinkage), the lower the likelihood of cracks and cracks. The latter are formed when mechanical action and temperature fluctuations.
Oxidability. Under the influence of moisture, the tree tends to lose its original color, turning into nondescript gray boards. In order for this to happen as late as possible, it is important to choose wood with a low level of oxidization.

Both wood and self-leveling floor are perfect for a bath. If desired, these two materials can be combined, which will allow you to do something unusual. It is impossible to say unequivocally which will be better. The choice should depend on the specific situation, personal wishes and budget. But, most importantly, it should be made taking into account future plans for the bath. If in the future it is planned to make it a little larger or somehow better, then it will be much easier to dismantle the wooden floor!

After assembling the log cabin of the bath and installing doors and windows, you need to think about installing the flooring. How to make a floor in the bath different ways, we will tell in this article. By following all the steps, you can complete the work without errors and with high quality.

Planning or choosing the type of flooring for the bath

Before installing the floor in the bath, you need to decide what it will be: wooden or screed. Several factors influence the choice:

The type of material from which the floor joists are made.
The material from which the bath is built.
What is the planned drainage system.
Purpose of the premises (steam room and washing room combined or separate, use dry steam or wet, etc.)
material side.

Wooden floor - features and purpose

The wooden floor in the baths is used in most cases. Such popularity is associated with the availability of material and the speed of installation (no need to take technical breaks in work). You can buy floorboards or logs already treated with an antiseptic and dried. And the laying process is simple, and even a beginner, after reading the step-by-step instructions, will be able to lay the floor. Of course, mistakes are made in any work, but if you watch the thematic video and read the article to the end, you can handle it. Flooring alone is difficult, so it is better to look for 1-2 helpers.

For a bath, there are several ways to lay floors, but the simplest:

"cold" flowing;
"warm" not leaking.

Let's consider each in more detail.

Cold floor - design features

Boards of "cold" coating are laid with a gap of 4-5 mm. It is necessary so that moisture does not accumulate in the baths, but flows into the underground. Since the floor of a similar design is cold all the time, it is recommended to use it only in the southern regions of the country or for a bath at a summer cottage.

The structure cannot be insulated, so it will not be comfortable to use the bath in cold weather. Of course, there is an option when the flooring is raised above the level of the pillow under the stove, and special ventilation is made. So the floor warms up during the firebox and dries quickly. We will talk in more detail about how to do this with your own hands in one of the following articles.

"Warm" floor - design features

The warm version is mounted from boards that are tightly adjacent to each other, which have a slight slope. The slope is mounted to a special drain, which, in turn, is built into the collector where all the moisture accumulates. From there, the water flows by gravity through inclined pipes, outside the bath. This design resembles a "pie". The upper boards are laid on the draft of the lower one, a heater is placed between them. It is hidden from moisture and steam is made into insulation.

The main advantages of this design:

moisture does not accumulate near the foundation;
the floor is additionally insulated, which means it will warm up;
because of the special drain system, the floorboards will last longer.

Concrete screed in the bath-features and purpose

Screeding floors in baths is a more time-consuming process that requires some skill and theoretical knowledge. A concrete screed for the bath floor can be made in several ways: pouring directly onto the ground, screed on the subfloor. It is easier to do the first method yourself.

Screed on the ground - features

A concrete screed is performed on previously removed soil and a sand cushion (this is shown in the photo). After drying, the coating has an unsightly appearance and needs finishing. Of course, you can just paint the floor with paint, but since the bathhouse will constantly be heated to high temperatures, then chemical compositions in the use of baths are undesirable. The easiest way is to lay ceramic tiles or natural stone. But both options are expensive and labor intensive.

Recently, know-how “warm floor” has been used in concrete screed. It is infrared, water and cable. But laying in damp rooms requires special knowledge, therefore it is not recommended to do it yourself.

It is important when using a concrete screed in baths to properly waterproof and heat-insulate the floor. The insulation is made from polymer material, for example PSB-S-35. The price of the material is from 70 rubles.

Installation of flooring in baths and saunas

Any of the options considered is suitable for a bath in a private house or cottage. And how to make the coating correctly, observing the basic rules and features of the technology, we will tell you in more detail.

Installation of a "cold" leaking floor

As lags for a leaking floor, you can use metal or wooden sticks of rectangular or rounded section. You need to choose depending on the material from which the log house was built. So, for a bath from a bar, it is better to use a tree with a cross section of at least 100 mm.

Before laying, the logs must be treated with antiseptics and impregnations. Used engine oil is used as an economy. Antiseptics take any, but it is better to direct appointment "for baths."

Wood before laying is dried to a moisture content of less than 12-10% or purchased ready-made, kiln-dried.

Laying the base under the floor

The installation of the log must be carried out parallel to the wall, which has a shorter length. To stiffen, columns of reinforced concrete are poured under them, the distance between them should not be more than 1 m. Spread out in the following steps:

removable at installation sites upper layer soil and a pillow of crushed stone and sand (10-15 cm) and reinforced mesh is poured;
columns of red brick are laid out or pieces of reinforced concrete slab are laid;
the structure is waterproofed with bituminous mastic.

If the foundation for the bath was columnar, then the level of the log should be parallel and equal in level to the embedded log. With tape - the upper part of the foundation.

On top of the pillars, waterproofing is laid in 2 layers and logs are mounted. They need to be laid leaving a distance from the main walls of at least 4-5 cm, on all sides, these gaps are needed for ventilation.

Underground drain installation

It is necessary to implement a system that will quickly remove excess water and prevent it from accumulating near the foundation. To do this, you need to study the soil, since the design will depend on the absorption of moisture:

With soil that is well absorbed by moisture, the top layer is removed around the entire perimeter of the bath and a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of at least 250 mm is poured. It is used as a filter. Moisture will pass through the filter and be absorbed into the soil. This is the easiest way.
With poorly absorbent soil, a slope of 10 ° is made towards a specially prepared drain (a pit at least 30–40 cm deep, in which a PVC drain pipe with a diameter of 15 cm or more, covered with crushed stone, is laid). In order for the water to drain more evenly, the soil can be covered with clay and compacted.

Laying floor boards

Floor boards can be used even without edged ones, the main thing is to level and trim them. Laying starts from the wall, stepping back 2 cm. Laying is perpendicular to the lags.

Boards can be fastened to the joists with screws or nails at an angle of 45 °. To make the gaps between the boards the same, use pieces of plywood 3-5 mm thick.

Installation of a "warm" non-leaking floor

Lags under the structure are laid in exactly the same way as in the first case. To organize the slope of the floor, you need to make cuts of 2-4 mm in each log, except for those located near the walls.

Installation of the drain system

A pit 400x400 mm and a depth of 300 mm is used as a water intake (the design diagram is in the photo above). You need to dig it between two supports. For waterproofing, a “clay castle” is made in the water collector or the walls are poured with concrete and coated with bitumen.

At the bottom, stepping back 2 cm, a drain pipe is mounted, which must be laid at an angle. For this, a PVC pipe with a cross section of at least 15 cm is suitable.

Laying floor boards

Floor installation begins with a rough bottom layer. For its fastening, 50x50 mm bars are attached to the beams on both sides along the entire length. Draft boards are laid on these bars, you can use any remaining after construction, even a small round timber. At least 60 mm must be retreated from the top of the beam, it depends on the thickness of the proposed insulation, it should not overlap the upper part of the log.

Waterproofing is spread on top of the subfloor. it must be overlapped, fasten the joints with bituminous mastic or adhesive tape (depending on the type of waterproofing). A heater is laid on top of the waterproofing (mineral wool, ecowool, expanded clay, sawdust with PVA, etc.). The insulation must be protected by covering it with a vapor barrier layer.

The vapor barrier is laid with an overlap of 15 cm, attached to the logs with a construction stapler.

A finishing board from the board is mounted on top. it is better to use tongue and groove with a tongue and groove. So water cannot get between the boards. It is better to mount boards by putting each subsequent one on a spike, so there is less chance of spoiling the lock connection. A pipe is mounted in an inclined drain, the end of which will go into the water collector.

It is important to leave a ventilated gap of at least 10 - 15 mm between the main coating and the insulation, where an additional exhaust pipe is led out.

As floorboards for a bath, it is better to use products that are resistant to water, such as larch, aspen. Otherwise, the floor will quickly rot, which will never happen with a concrete screed.

Installation of a concrete screed - features of installation in baths

The top layer of soil is removed along the entire inner perimeter, at least 30-40 cm. The soil is rammed. 100 mm of coarse-grained sand is laid on top. Then a layer of crushed stone 200 mm and two layers of roofing material. At the same time, it is important to leave space for future acceptance before filling the sand.

The next step is to dig out a place for acceptance, its walls must be concreted to a thickness of at least 50 mm. From above it is covered with rubble and a drain pipe is removed. Only after that you can proceed to the screed.

Filling the screed on the floor of the bath

The installation of the screed is carried out in the following steps:

The first layer is poured with concrete to a height of 5 - 6 cm, it is allowed to dry (but not completely dry);
A layer of thermal insulation PSB-S-35 is spread out (you can take any thickness, standard 5 and 10 cm);
To give rigidity, a reinforced mesh is laid;
The final layer of concrete is poured in 6 - 9 cm. To give hardness, you need to pour finishing layer, at an angle of 10 -15 °, towards the drain, where the pipe is mounted.

Above concrete screed decorate with tiles, there are many of them in construction centers, the price starts from 210 rubles / m2. You can think of your own design and choose a cover for it. All depending on the size of the wallet and imagination.

How to make the floor in the bath with your own hands photo and video

How to make a floor in a bath, detailed instructions and a description of all work with photos and videos, features various designs wood and concrete screed

Floor in the bath: 3 materials and DIY work

Floors deserve special attention in the process of arranging a bath. There are a lot of pleasures outside the city: fishing, giving, hiking with tents and looking for mushrooms with berries, and, of course, a bath. When building a bath, it is important to take into account its huge difference from, for example, country house and other premises. Bath needed large stock strength and ability to wick away moisture. From a large steam exposure, not only the walls, but also the floor of the bath can rot and become unusable, thereby creating a danger to others. Therefore, many options need to be considered. proper construction floor, which will not rot, but provide water drainage. Before you make the floor in the bath with your own hands, it is better to study the step-by-step guide in order to avoid wrong actions and costly consequences.

What is better to make the floor in the bath

The main and most important requirement that applies to the floor of the bath is warmth. The floor must be made very warm, because after steam procedures, and on time, no one likes to step on a cold floor. A warm floor will not cause any discomfort, therefore, the choice of material is treated with great demands, it should easily conduct heat. Concrete flooring is best covered with decking, other materials also have their own characteristics.

Laying floors is the most important stage in the construction of any building.

What materials do the floor in the bath:

Wood flooring. Pine, fir, spruce or larch are selected. Particularly noted for the high quality conifers trees. Because of the resin, they last longer than others. Softwood floors are non-slip, have healing properties and a great smell.
Ceramic floor. This floor, unlike wooden boards, lasts a long time and does not rot. But it gets very hot. In order not to get hit by heat, wooden grates are placed on the tile, which are easily removed and dried. They prefer to lay tiled floors in the house, but they are also suitable for a bath. The scheme of their laying is simple, and if the heat comes from the stove, then you can successfully beat the interior. This is a very practical item.
Concrete floors. To lay a concrete floor correctly, you need to be very careful. It is not recommended to lay a concrete floor in an ordinary bath room, where, for example, it is customary to drink tea.

But in the steam room, it can be quite acceptable. The construction of a concrete floor begins after compaction of the floor with crushed stone and sand. Warming comes from thermal insulation with felt or expanded clay. Keep a slope to collect water and waste it. The floorboard is interchangeable and can be easily removed and redone. Concrete pavement will be more difficult to remove and correct errors. The design of concrete floors should have a small opening for ventilation.

This will protect the floor from rotting, and the bath from a terrible smell. For a warmer floor, concrete is laid in several layers.

The floors in the bath are distinguished by the place of their use. In the steam room, shower and other rooms. In the shower, it is more common to make a floor of tiles with water insulation. It is not profitable to make wood floors in the shower room, because high humidity will quickly ruin this material. The floors in the sauna or steam room are more suitable for wood and tiles, while in other dryer rooms you can also lay a laminate, the main thing is that the room is not very wet. Therefore, what floors are needed for the room are selected depending on its purpose.

Concrete floor in a wooden bath and its advantages

The floor in the bath practically does not heat up above 35 degrees. Therefore, it is not recommended to stand on the concrete floor after the steam room, you can get a heat stroke. That is why wooden gratings are laid on the concrete floor. They are low maintenance and easy to clean, and safety is paramount.

The most important thing is that your floor must be warm, because when using water procedures, I think you will not like to step bare feet on cold floor

What are the advantages of a concrete floor:

Absolute resistance to damp air and sudden changes in temperature;
Weakly susceptible to decay;
Moisture does not destroy concrete;
Easy care;
Concrete can be beautifully beaten in the interior.

Making a concrete floor in a wooden bath is quite simple. Concrete floors are placed on logs on top of the ground. Logs are best made from wood. A beam is fixed to the log, making a kind of strip. Having treated the logs and other wooden materials with an antiseptic, they lay a subfloor (use a board). A hole is made in this floor for draining water. They trim the subfloor with waterproofing, then with insulation, then again with waterproofing. A mesh of reinforcement is laid on top of it, a slope is set towards the drain and the concrete screed is poured with concrete, observing the angle of inclination. For wooden bath necessary large quantity insulation, so in this case there are two.

The usual floor in the bath from the boards: what kind of wood is most suitable

Making wooden floors in the bath, you can quite successfully create the atmosphere of a village house for steam procedures and meeting friends over a cup of tea after a good and healing effect of a broom in the steam room. The smell of the bathhouse, the smell of wood and leaves, the floors with woody ornaments and their naturalness have a particularly positive effect on others.

In the bath, it is best to make a floor from tree species such as fir, pine, larch or spruce

Pine breeds. Very easy to handle and inexpensive. Deformation is excluded with proper drying of the tree. But there is a drawback: pine boards rot quickly if they are exposed to moisture. Accordingly, fungi and other organisms develop at a breakneck pace. Therefore, pine is preferred to be used for lag in the construction of bath floors.
Aspen and linden. They are inexpensive, but darken after exposure to temperature. Medicinal properties famous not for the first year, and the ornament of this type of wood creates a bathing atmosphere. Needs very frequent processing.
Cedar tree. Durable wood. In appearance, it has a great advantage over other types of wood. Virtually no decay. Expensive.

Also, the floors in the bath are made of larch, oak and other types of wood. The criterion for choosing boards for the floor in the bath depends not only on finances. Here it is important to take into account the features of the room where the floor is laid. It is necessary to take into account water resistance, density and the possibility of decay.

How to make a floor in a bath: the specifics of wood material

When installing a wooden floor, you need to consider not only the design. Not always a beautiful interior means quality material. Therefore, the wooden floor in the bath can last a long time, if certain nuances are observed.

Bath floor design and implementation is critical

Features of the wooden floor in the bath:

Compliance with the rules of acclimatization. The boards must “get used” to the temperature and humidity of the room where they will be installed. Therefore, they are left there for a couple of days.
You need to process the boards with an antiseptic. This will eliminate the formation of fungus and rotting. Processing must be subjected to all elements of the floor made of wood, even logs.
Compliance with floor installation rules. The technological difference between a leaky and non-leaking floor has long been known. The floor is laid in the bath in compliance with the laying scheme. It is important to remember to observe the angle of inclination for a non-leaking floor or gaps for a leaking one.

If you treat things carefully and carefully, take care of them in a timely manner appearance and follow the safety rules, then they can serve a great and long service, especially if it is such a pleasant thing as a bath.

Warm floor in the bath from the stove: water heating scheme

The floors in the bath can be heated not only with the help of a heater. They can be heated with a stove.

Do not rush to buy an electric floor heating system if you have a stove in this facility. You can make a water heated floor

Scheme of heating floors in a bath using a stove:

First rough screed placed to avoid distortion and distortion;
The second layer is laid with a waterproofing sheet, which helps to eliminate the possibility of condensation;
In the third stage, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the material for heat insulation;
A substrate is installed for the desired reflection of heat;
The location of the heating main itself;

Filling everything with a screed with a slight inclination of the surface and laying the coating for a perfect interior.

Choosing the floor in the bath, installing it, observing all the installation rules and taking care of the material, the consumer not only acquires an additional angle on fresh air, but also a new leisure. A large number of gatherings with loved ones can be in such a bath, with a warm floor.

Do-it-yourself floor design for a bath (interior photo)

The floor in the bath: how to do it yourself, a step-by-step guide, what is better, the floor from the stove, the scheme of the concrete

The floor in the bath will help direct the bath procedures in the right direction. But how to choose the most rational material for the floor and what is more reliable: concrete or wood.

Floor in the bath - different options for arranging a quality base

Arrangement of the floor in a private steam room should be given special attention. The level of comfort during use and the functionality of the bath itself depend on how competently its design is thought out and implemented.

Materials for arranging floors in the steam room - what to use?

If you want to build a capital bath room made of stone or brick with a rest room, separate steam room, washing department, dressing room and use it all year round, experts advise opting for a concrete base. It must be equipped with a well-thought-out water drainage system and effective waterproofing. But for small baths, operated exclusively in the summer, simpler wooden floors are suitable. They are built much faster and easier, are environmentally friendly, have a very presentable appearance.

Wooden floors in the bath are short-lived

Wooden bases have been used for a very long time. They create special comfort in the steam room, saturate the room with pleasant natural aromas, make each bath procedure a small holiday for the true Russian soul. True, there are many disadvantages of wooden floors. The durability of such structures leaves much to be desired. No matter how hard you try to protect wood from the harmful effects of water, it will quickly lose its initial performance characteristics. Therefore, be prepared for the fact that after a while you will have to re-lay the wooden floors in the steam room.

Concrete structures are much more preferable in terms of durability. They are not afraid of water and steam, temperature changes.

Concrete products withstand even the most difficult operating conditions. On average, such foundations are used for 40–45 years without additional repairs. We immediately note the obvious disadvantages of concrete coatings. They are very cold (for this reason, a suitable finishing material, such as tile, is laid on top of them), time-consuming to install with your own hands, they require a serious investment of time and financial resources.

Concrete foundation - we build for centuries!

The floor for a bath made of concrete, in fact, is an ordinary screed. It is made from a solution in which there is sand, cement and some special fillers (crushed stone, natural marble chips, gravel and others). We advise you not to bother with mixing the required ingredients to obtain a concrete composition, but immediately purchase the finished mixture at the nearest construction store. Factory sand-cement compositions in dry form are completely ready for use. They only need to be diluted with ordinary water in the recommended volume, thoroughly mixed with a perforator with a nozzle, and then used for its intended purpose.

If the screed will serve as a finishing floor covering, or a simple board flooring will be mounted on it, there is no need to add any special components to the purchased mixture. For cases when it is planned to lay tiles on top of the concrete pavement, it is advisable to add a little anhydrite with gypsum to the cement-sand composition. It is even easier to buy a self-levelling compound designed specifically for such cases.

The concrete base for the bath can be mounted on logs or directly on the ground. The first stage of work is the arrangement of an elementary system for removing water. It consists of an intermediate tank (this role is usually played by a small hole 0.4x0.4x0.3 m dug in the ground) and two pipes. The walls and bottom of the pit should be concreted and a tubular product with a cross section of 20 cm should be brought to it. Its second end is led into an autonomous septic tank at the site or into the gutter. We start another pipe from the pit into the bathhouse. It is desirable to provide this part of the system with a valve that prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors into the steam room.

When the solution hardens, lay mineral wool or polystyrene on it (you can pour a layer of expanded clay, perlite). These materials play the role of an effective insulation. Under the foam and cotton wool, we must put waterproofing (it is most reasonable to use roofing material). We cover the thermal insulation with the same material. Then we mount a metal mesh (wire). It makes it possible to perform high-quality reinforcement.

Concrete can also be used as a floor finish

Now you can pour the main screed. We serve the solution from the far corner and gradually approach the exit from the steam room. When pouring, the composition is necessarily leveled (you need to work with an assistant). This operation is performed with a trowel. And to tighten the concrete in a circular motion, we use the rule. After 2-3 days, the screed will harden. It can be laid flooring from boards or tiles. We mount the trim with a two-centimeter slope towards the drain. If the concrete is planned to be used as a finishing coating (you can do so), just carefully level and grind its surface. But remember that such a floor in a private bath will be cold. In winter, it is problematic to use a steam room with it.

Leaking wood floor - acceptable quality with minimal labor

You can make a floor in a wooden bath using two technologies. The first involves the construction of leaking foundations, the second - non-leaking. Advice. If you have little experience in construction work, it is better to build leaking floors. They are made in the form of flooring from boards, between which gaps are specially left. Through them, the used water goes into the ground. Insulation of such structures is not carried out, the sewer system is not being built. Instead of the latter, a simple drainage pit is used. They dig it under the bath.

You can make a floor in a bath of this type according to the following algorithm:

1. We level a piece of land, fill it with a layer of gravel, which should be well compacted.
2. We prepare wooden logs (we cut them to the required dimensions, apply an antiseptic composition) and support pillars for them.
3. We mount the processed logs on the supports, keeping the distance between the individual elements at the level of 0.5 m.
4. Lay the boardwalk. We leave gaps of 2-3 mm between the wall of the bath, the floor and the boards to be mounted.

Leaking bases imply gaps between boards

Leaking floors of both types can be constructed from hardwood and softwood. It is not recommended to lay oak boards. They become very slippery when wet. It is better to opt for products made of pine, linden or larch. The last option is considered the most optimal. One more nuance. The flooring is made of planed edged boards 4-5 cm thick. Thinner products in high humidity conditions will not last long.

Non-leaking wood floor - environmentally friendly and quite reliable

We build a non-leaking floor in the bath according to the following step-by-step guide:

1. We make a hole-reservoir, we lay pipes for drains by analogy with the arrangement of drainage for concrete pavements.
2. We prepare the site. We remove the layer of earth, fill the cleaned area with sand and gravel. Each layer of material is rammed. If desired, pour a concrete screed (5–6 cm). This part of the operation is optional. If you want to save time and money, skip it.
3. We cover the floor base with a waterproofing layer. The best protector from moisture in this case will be roofing material.
4. We perform insulation using polystyrene foam or expanded clay. Mineral wool is not used for thermal insulation of non-leaking bases.
5. We install logs with a step of 0.5 m on pre-mounted beams. For the manufacture of the latter, you need to use bars 10x20 cm. These supports, as you remember, are fastened along the perimeter of the foundation.

Then we mount the intermediate base. We fix the draft floor from the bottom of the beams. We cover it with an additional heat-insulating layer (mounted on roofing material). On top of the insulation we lay another layer of waterproofing material. The last stage of work is the installation of the finishing floor. We install it with a slope, we lay the boards close to each other. The finish coating is attached to the lags with nails or self-tapping screws.

How to make the floor in the bath with your own hands: a step by step guide

Floor in the bath different variants arranging a quality foundation Arrangement of the floor in a private steam room should be given special attention. How competently it will be thought out and implemented

How to make the right floor in the bath with your own hands: instructions

The floor in the bath differs in its structure only in the steam room and washing room. The rest of the baths are operated in the usual humidity regime. In the article, we will consider in detail the arrangement of floors in the steam room and talk about how to lay them with your own hands.

The choice of the design of the floor of the steam room and washing

The usual solution would be wooden floors. Their main advantage is the health benefits of wood, environmental friendliness and practicality. Despite the relatively low service life wooden floors in the conditions of a steam room, it is not so difficult to change them, and the total costs will still be lower than the arrangement of a concrete floor.

In the steam room and washing room, a fair amount of water constantly falls on the floor, which should be diverted to the pit, drainage system, or simply into the ground under the bath. AT constructively to solve this problem, wooden floors are divided into leaking and non-leaking.

The leaking floor provides a gap between the boards. Water seeps freely into the underfloor. Then it is absorbed into the soil, if its filtering capacity allows it, or is discharged into a pit, for which a clay castle or concrete base is formed with a slope in one direction.

The second option is a non-leaking floor during wet rooms baths. Such a floor is made with a non-removable coating and is replaced only at the end of its service life. A slope for collecting and draining water is provided here along the surface of the floor covering towards the tray or funnel.

A floor with a removable coating can and even needs to be disassembled and dried regularly until the bath is in use. Fixed floors, due to susceptibility to decay at high humidity, change completely about once every 7–8 years.

A concrete base under a leaking wooden floor in a bath significantly increases the durability of the structure, and also affects comfort - even after many years there will be no musty smell from under the floor. However, the arrangement of a concrete base significantly increases the cost of arranging a bath, so if the parent soil under the building has a high drainage capacity, then it is easier to get by with preparing a filter layer.

Materials and tools

To cover the floor in the steam room and washing room, wooden elements made of deciduous (linden, aspen) and coniferous (pine, larch, cedar) wood species are used. All wooden structures floors must be treated with antiseptics.

For flooring you will need:

wooden beam for logs 50 (100) x100 mm;
floor board 35 mm thick;
cement M300, M400;
sand of medium fraction;
expanded clay for the heat-insulating layer;
ordinary clay brick for posts under logs;
waterproofing (roofing material).

It is important to choose the right protective wood impregnation. It should be suitable for baths because high temperature and humidity. The easiest way to process wood is impregnation sunflower oil for two approaches.

Tool

The floors in the steam room are arranged using a tool for laying a concrete base on the ground and wood flooring bath floor.

Tools for working with concrete. 1. Rake-stroke. 2. Cement grater. 3. Trowel. 4. Ironer. 5. Corner ironer. 6. Rule. 7. Bubble level. 8. Pendulum profile

Woodworking tools. 1. Construction corner. 2. Staple. 3. Hammer. 4. Electric planer. 5. Clamps. 6. Hacksaw for wood. 7. Bubble level. 8. Screwdriver. 9. Drill. ten. A circular saw machine

Leaking floor from individual boards with chamfers

For the preparation of ground base under the floor structure must be removed fertile layer no matter how thick it is.

Leaking floor over concrete base. 1. Ground. 2. Expanded clay concrete. 3. Cement strainer. 4. Gutter. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

Flowing floor on the ground with filtering capacity. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Gravel. 4. Foundation support post. 5. Brick pillar. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

It is important at this stage to decide how and where the water will be drained outside the building. For this, a tray (200x150h mm) is provided in the concrete base, into which water flows. The bottom of the tray is made with a slope towards the drain pit (30x30x25h). It is better to locate the pit closer to the place of the external water collector. From the pit, water flows through the drain pipe to the sump.

The slope of the surface for water runoff is 2-3 cm per meter in the direction of the tray. It is created either by leveling the ground under the floor, or by filling (sand and gravel) under the concrete base. General level the floor in the steam room and washing room is 30 mm lower than in adjacent rooms with normal humidity.

A sand and gravel cushion 10–15 cm thick is laid on the compacted soil. It is necessary to fill and compact the sand in layers of no more than 5 cm, wetting it with water. Next, a heat-insulating layer of expanded clay concrete is laid. Approximate consumption source materials per 1 m 3 of concrete is:

It is best to prepare a concrete solution in a concrete mixer or order

It is also possible to use another light filler (shungizite, perlite, expanded vermiculite, crushed stone of porous rocks etc.). The thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer can be taken as 150 mm. Concrete is laid in strips no more than 2.5 m wide on a base moistened with water. To limit the strips, rails are installed, they also serve as beacons for determining the thickness of the layer. The thicker the insulation layer, the warmer the floor.

Be sure to observe the slope towards the gutter or funnel to collect and drain water

A cement-sand screed 40 mm thick is laid on the layer of expanded clay concrete. The composition of the mortar (M100) cement / sand: one to three. Before the mortar sets, it is necessary to iron the surface with cement milk. Cement is mixed with water to the state of liquid sour cream. The surface is covered with an even thin layer of the mixture. This is done to increase the water resistance of the concrete base.

Under the logs, brick columns are installed from solid clay ordinary bricks (250x250 mm) on cement-sand mortar. The distance between the posts is 0.8–1.0 m in the center. 2 layers of roofing material are laid on their surface. Next, the lags are laid. The floorboards of the leaking floor have chamfers along the edges for water drainage. The gap between the boards is 5-6 mm.

Important! Cannot be used in damp or wet areas silicate brick, hollow stones, silicate blocks.

Such a floor is made removable in order to be able to dry floorboard to increase service life. Boards can move when walking on them, they are often caught with nails, landing nests up to 5 mm deep are prepared under them in the logs, or spacer strips are stuffed on the boards along the edges.

Leaking floor made of removable panels

The floor covering of the steam room and soap can be made from removable wooden shields. The boards of the shield are laid with a gap on the transverse bars 50x50 mm. The size of the shields is taken for reasons of ease of removal and drying.

The floor structure is the same: compacted soil, compacted Sand and gravel, insulation - expanded clay concrete 150 mm thick. Ceramic floor tiles are laid on a cement-sand mortar with a thickness of 10–15 mm. The floor has a slope that is directed towards the drain tray. Removable shields are installed on the tile so that the lower bars are located along the water drain.

The sequence of works of a non-leaking floor

A non-leaking wooden floor involves a continuous flooring of tongue-and-groove boards along the logs. First determine the location support posts. They are placed at a distance of 0.8–1.0 m from each other, measuring the distances in the centers. A concrete cushion 100 mm thick and 70 mm wide is prepared for each column over size column.

Solid non-leaking floor over the ground. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk thermal insulation material. 4. The foundation of the supporting column. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

A solid, non-leaking floor must be laid with a slope. The gutter can be placed in one of the logs located close to the wall. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk heat-insulating material. 4. Brick column on a concrete base. 5. Gutter. 6. Floor board

Supports for logs are made of concrete or ordinary clay bricks on a cement-sand mortar. The size of the columns is 250x250 mm. The height of the supports must correspond to the upper edge of the embedded beam ( columnar foundation), or at the top of the strip foundation.

The direction of laying the log should be perpendicular to the direction of water flow. wooden elements without fail, they are isolated from concrete or brick with two layers of waterproofing (roofing material). Expanded clay bedding 15 cm thick is made on the compacted soil.

An uninsulated floor option is shown in the figure. In this case, the boards are supported on one side by a wall lag, on the other - by a lag-gutter. The tray is covered from above with a wooden ladder.

The insulated floor involves logs with cranial bars to which the black floor is attached. Next, a vapor barrier is laid (membrane, polyethylene, polypropylene films), a layer of heat insulator is laid on it ( mineral wool board, Styrofoam). Rolled waterproofing (roofing material) is laid on the heat-insulating layer.

Insulated non-leaking floor. 1. Soil, sand cushion and bulk insulation. 2. Brick pillar. 3. Logs and rough wooden floor. 4. Insulation. 5. Logs and finished floor laid with a slope towards the gutter. 6. Gutter. 7. A vapor-permeable membrane is laid on top of the subfloor, waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer

There must be a gap of at least 3 cm between the clean floor and the waterproofing. The lag size in this case is 100x170 mm. Skull bar - 40x40 mm. For logs, only a solid beam must be used.

Grooved boards are laid along the lags. Boards are sewn with nails or self-tapping screws to the logs through the tongue. This method of rallying boards is called "parquet". Its advantage is the absence of hats on the surface of the board.

Each board is attached to all lags. They should fit snugly against each other. The gap between the boards should not exceed 1 mm. For rallying the boards, staples or clamps are used. Nails for fastening are used 2–2.5 times longer than the thickness of the boards. The end of the plank floor does not reach the wall by 10–20 mm. In the future, the gap is covered with a plinth.

Drainage of water from the floor surface occurs due to the slope of the floor in two directions. A hole is made at the drain point and a siphon is installed. The slope of the floor can be done by adjusting the height of the log.

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