How to make a hood in a brick bath. Ventilation in the bath: diagrams, views, building tips and options for the correct configuration (105 photos). How much does it cost

Ventilation in a log bath: its arrangement should be approached very responsibly, so that later there is less trouble and there are no situations when someone becomes ill in the steam room due to the lack of sufficient oxygen.

Ventilation is mounted parallel to the construction of the building itself, and the choice of one or another of its types is made in accordance with the architectural features of the building.

Ventilation in the bath, made at a high quality level, provides comfortable conditions for lovers of steam, allows you to fully enjoy the bath process

On a note! Ventilation in the bath, made at a high quality level, provides comfortable conditions for lovers of steam, allows you to fully enjoy the bath process.

Why is there ventilation in the bath?

To answer the question, why, in fact, the bath ventilation, you should know its direct purpose.

If there is an air circulation system in the steam room, other bath rooms, they:

• warm up faster, heat fills them more evenly (direct savings on heating);
• receive oxygen in the process of soaring, vacationers feel comfortable, nothing threatens their health;
• quickly get rid of excess steam, moisture, dry;
• walls, floors, ceilings are not covered with fungi, mold, objects (benches, tubs) do not darken, the building as a whole does not deform, it will last longer.

If the room is not sufficiently or not ventilated at all, unpleasant putrefactive odors appear there, the inner surfaces are covered with a wet sticky coating. While bathing, vacationers experience a lack of oxygen, breathing difficulties, and the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. Also, in the absence of proper air circulation, warm masses will quickly accumulate under the ceiling, and the area near the floor will be constantly cold.

However, you should also know the following: a bath of classical Russian construction, that is, from logs, with specially cut ventilation holes ... is not provided! They are recognized by professionals as superfluous, but only in one case: if the bath is neither insulated nor insulated from the outside, not insulated, not finished. In a bath without finishing, the lower wall crowns are already laid with holes through which air enters in a natural mode. If there is a stove-heater inside, then ventilation is carried out through a blower. And so fresh air is let into the Russian bath through a door or window open by five to seven centimeters. In parallel with this, the room should be cleaned of wet leaves in a timely manner, benches are dried on the street, and heavy air is driven out by waving sheets.

Specially built-in ventilation in a Russian log bath must be equipped in cases where:

• there is additional insulation or any type of insulation;
• floors do not have natural slots for draining water;

• the stove is not in the steam room, but in the adjacent room;
• windows are missing.

Important! Only in these cases, the presence of additional ventilation holes and forced circulation systems in a log bath is recognized as mandatory.

Ventilation device: important points

Let us clarify once again: we are talking about arranging ventilation in a classic-built log bath only if its natural implementation (through a stove blew, window, door, cracks in the floor) is impossible. Quite often, during the construction of baths, two extremes are observed: they refuse ventilation altogether or make it more powerful and unregulated. What will happen to vacationers in the steam room in the absence of ventilation, we said above. If the ventilation is too intense, the bath will take longer to heat up, the heat will quickly disappear from the room. The floors will cool faster, which threatens people with colds.

Fresh air should enter the steam room through an opening located directly behind the stove or under one of the loungers. In the first case, hitting a hot stove, the air warms up quickly, the difference between the ceiling and floor temperatures is neutralized. The ventilation hole located under the lounger has only one plus - it is not conspicuous. There are two minuses here - constantly cold floors in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe benches, difficult operation of the damper, since it is difficult to reach it with your hand.

Bath ventilation cannot be only supply or only exhaust. It can be exclusively supply and exhaust, since it provides a constant supply of oxygen to the room and the removal of harmful, heavy, exhaust air to the street. Hence the answer to the question of whether ventilation is needed in a log bath can only be in the affirmative. And about what types it is, we will talk below.

There are three types of ventilation structures, and they differ in their design.

Systems are:

• natural;
• mechanical or forced;
• combined.

Natural ventilation is provided during the construction of the building by cutting holes. Dampers (covers) are installed on them, which, if necessary, completely shut off the flow of air flows or decrease (increase) their volume. This system functions due to the difference in pressure and temperature of the external atmosphere and the internal one. In order for natural ventilation to work effectively, you need to properly position the vents themselves. The inlet (supply) hole is usually located behind the stove at a distance of 0.3 meters from the floor, the outlet (exhaust) is opposite on the wall at a distance of 0.3 meters from the ceiling.

For a steam room, this is not the best ventilation option, since in this case the outlet must be at the same level as the inlet. Thus, the air enters behind the stove, heats up, rises up, cools down, descends, and is discharged outside through the exhaust hole.

A mechanical or forced (artificial) ventilation system is provided by installing special fans on the openings, laying pipes, and installing electrical equipment. If we compare it with natural, a number of fairly significant advantages are found, namely:

1. Oxygen enters the room faster.
2. The incoming air is filtered.
3. The microclimate inside the room is constantly kept at the same level.
4. Fresh air is distributed evenly, quickly updated.

However, in order to maximize the effect of its use, you should strictly monitor the correct location of the supply / exhaust openings.

On a note! Natural ventilation in a log bath loses to forced ventilation in several positions.

For example, it is very dependent on the weather, especially if a strong wind is directed towards the intake hole at an angle of ninety degrees. The result of the work of the forced system is always of the same quality in any weather. And the direction and strength of the wind does not play any role for her.

However, when installing a mechanical system, there are some difficulties. It cannot be equipped without electrical equipment, which is quite sensitive to the humid microclimate in a steam room with high temperatures. Moreover, moisture and high degrees are the worst enemies of any equipment powered by electricity. Therefore, all elements of the system (fans, motors, etc.) should be reliably isolated from moisture, and when connecting it, strictly follow all operating rules. For sealing electrical engineering, all seams, special cases, sealants and metallized adhesive tape are most often used.

Arranging a sauna is a very interesting process, but troublesome. It is necessary to take into account a good hundred little things, so that it is not only comfortable, but also safe for health. The latter also depends on air exchange - improperly equipped ventilation in the sauna can form a draft or, conversely, lead to too much heating of the room!

The steam room is a key place for ventilation

The most important room of any sauna or bath is, of course, the steam room. And in the steam room, the high temperature largely depends on ventilation, and not only it, but also the quality of rest. What is the use of hot air if it is stale and saturated with damp smells and sweat products?

In addition, we must not forget that any steam room is a place with high humidity, and therefore an increased danger for all elements (especially wooden ones) to become a breeding ground for mold and fungus. And what sauna can do without electrics now? Even with a minimum of electrical equipment, you need to run a banal light, make a switch - that's the risk of getting an electric shock in high humidity!

In order not to have to constantly think about high humidity, it is better to think about high-quality ventilation once. Thinking, of course, will not be enough - you also need to implement the plan correctly! Since school days, we all know that hot air has one pronounced feature - it always tends to rise up, pushing cold air down. Thanks to this, the natural circulation of air in the atmosphere on a global scale and in each room in particular is ensured. Applied to the steam room, thanks to this law of physics, we get the hottest places on the upper shelves and relatively cool on the lower ones.

According to generally accepted standards, the air in the steam room should be updated at least three times per hour., optimal recommendations - all seven times! Such air exchange can be ensured using conventional supply and exhaust ventilation - hot air, rising to the ceiling, exits through the exhaust vent, as a result of which a slight vacuum is created in the intake duct, and fresh air enters the room. Such a system is applicable to the toilet, but, unlike them, has its own characteristics.

But the task is complicated by the fact that the hottest steam, which is located at the top level of the steam room, should not immediately slip into the hood, otherwise you will be left in a cold sauna, which urgently needs to be heated. If this happens, it means that the hood is equipped incorrectly! Sometimes this is due to the impossibility of the correct arrangement of elements due to the architectural features of the building, in which case it is necessary to consider options for ventilation combined with a mechanical method.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in the sauna - arrangement scheme

To begin with, consider the classics - natural supply and exhaust ventilation. The hood law of this type is the correct location of the inlet and outlet openings. The correct one is when the inlet is located near the stove or under it (if we are talking about the electric version), while the outlet is located on the opposite side. Also, cold fresh air will enter the steam room through a specially left 5-7 cm gap under the door.

The inlet openings must be located strictly below so that the cold air can have time to heat up before it enters the area where people stay.

For proper air circulation, one exhaust opening will not be enough. On the opposite side of the inflow, the first hood is located at a height of about a meter, the second is under the ceiling. Both openings must be connected by an exhaust duct, which leads either to the main ventilation system or to the chimney. If the air duct goes separately, then you need to remember that the higher the pipe rises above the roof level, the more thrust will be in the system - it is important not to overdo it!

So that you can regulate the intensity of air exchange, it is imperative to install shutters on the air outlets. How does such a system work? Let's imagine a standard steam room with a stove-heater at the far wall and a door at the near one. As expected, a gap was left under the door, and the hoods are located on opposite walls: near the stove and at the door.

Before heating the steam room, it must be properly ventilated so that there is fresh air in the room. The doors and outlets are then closed, leaving only the inlet valve open. The steam room will heat up quickly enough, since the hot air will soon have nowhere to go, which means that there will be no air discharge in the inlet.

When the sauna has warmed up, we still leave the upper channel closed, while opening the lower channel a little - thanks to this, air circulation in the steam room will begin, while the upper layers of the warmest air will not leave the room. Cold air will again begin to enter through the supply channel, but due to the proximity of the heater to the resting people, it will get already warmed up, gradually rising up and replacing the stagnant air.

Thanks to this air exchange, the room will have fresh and warm air. Vacationers may not even notice such a change, enjoying the process. Such a system provides economical handling of already heated air, which means you will save on coolant consumption. In addition, problems with mold and fungus will not affect you - thanks to this circulation, all elements will dry properly.

Combined system - when there are no other options

Structural features do not always give us the opportunity to provide ventilation strictly according to the above scheme. For example, a steam room has three adjacent walls with other rooms, and the inlet and outlet must be placed on the same wall. In this case, the correct location must be observed: the supply should be at a distance of 20 cm from the floor, while the outlet should be located at the same distance, only from the ceiling.

Cold air currents, entering the room, will pass through the stove, heat up and rise up, refreshing and warming the room. The disadvantage of this method is that the air circulation is too intense, which must be tightly regulated using valves on the holes.

There is also an option in which the inlet is not located below, under the stove, but above the heater. If the outlet channel is located at a higher level on the opposite wall, we will get a relatively normal movement of air masses. True, it may not be enough, therefore, in such cases, a fan is placed in the outlet to drive air. This will be combined ventilation.

Classic mistakes - what not to do

The most common mistake in the arrangement of supply and exhaust ventilation is the location of the ventilation openings at the same level. As a result, we get a draft below, and hot air at the upper levels will practically not take part in air exchange.

If you make only one hole for the air outlet under the ceiling, even with the correct placement of the inlet and outlet, the mixing of hot and cold air flows will be too fast - the steam room can cool down in a few minutes! Usually, the upper opening is used only in cases where you want to quickly reduce the temperature or completely ventilate the room.

Own bathhouse on the site is an indispensable attribute of suburban home ownership. This is not just a room for hygiene procedures. This is a place for family holidays and meetings with close friends. That is why it is necessary to think over its design to the smallest detail. And one of the most important aspects is proper ventilation in the bath. It is quite possible to master the installation of an effective ventilation system with your own hands. How to do this simply and quickly - in our material.

Read in the article:

Do I need ventilation in the bath and what are its basic principles?

Even ancient architects knew that without access to fresh air, a house or bathhouse would quickly collapse under the influence of dampness and mold. It was for air exchange that they left gaps between the upper logs. Now this simple technology has been replaced by more efficient systems. They require some time to install and plan. There is a temptation to give up on this question altogether, but what does it threaten as a result:

• after just a couple of years, the materials of the building, especially if it is made using frame technology, will become unusable due to constant dampness;
• There will always be a musty smell in the room. It will be especially noticeable when melting the bath, and this will nullify all the pleasure from the process;
• staying in such a bath will not only become unpleasant, but also dangerous to health. In addition to the accumulation of carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide, there will be a large number of mold spores in the air, which can cause severe lung and skin diseases.

Obviously, it is worth spending time and money for your own safety. Before getting down to work, study the basic principles of arranging ventilation for a bath:

And now about how to make ventilation in the bath in such a way as not to lose precious steam and at the same time preserve materials and health?

Ventilation in the bath: scheme and device, system features

For a bath room, the use of supply and exhaust ventilation is optimal. The basic principle of its work is to organize the flow of fresh air and exhaust in the bath. The scheme of this system is simple:

Fresh air can enter the room through ventilation valves, air vents, ajar vents. The heated air saturated with carbon dioxide is removed through a blower in the furnace or an exhaust hood.

For the system to work effectively, you should follow a few simple rules:

1. Incoming ventilation holes are located at the bottom of the wall, not far from the furnace. So the air flow will heat up faster and move naturally.
2. To control the flow, use flaps on the vents. The optimal mode for updating the atmosphere in the steam room is three volumes per hour.

These two basic principles must be observed for any location of the firebox in the bath. At the same time, the placement of the stove is also of no small importance when planning ventilation in the bath. The layout of the channels will be different. Here are two examples:

In addition to these traditional options, you can use other efficient systems that work naturally, without the use of mechanisms and devices for forced air supply.

How to plan the ventilation of the floor in the bath?

The floors in the bath room are constantly wet. They are the ones that fail in the first place. Particularly susceptible to the destructive influence of dampness are wooden pavements, which are so pleasant to walk barefoot on. If you do not provide for proper ventilation under the floor in the bath, you will have to change the flooring at least once every three to four years.

Think about it at the very beginning of construction. The easiest way to ensure the safety of floors is to leave air vents in the basement of the building. They are placed opposite each other and covered with bars so that rats and mice do not penetrate through the holes.

The boards are laid on the logs in such a way that there are gaps of about half a centimeter between them. Water will not linger on such a coating, and air will freely penetrate to all sides of the flooring.

You can bring the ventilation pipe from under the floor to the riser, which should be higher than the roof. A deflector is mounted at the top of the riser.

Important! Do not use the attic to remove air flows. In winter, the cold and damp atmosphere of the attic space will descend into the bathhouse.

Free air access to the foundation

If you provide ventilation of the foundation in the bath, you can solve most of the problems in one fell swoop. Good airflow under the floor guarantees protection against rot and mold.

The most optimal size of the ventilation hole is 11 centimeters. You can use an air duct with a larger diameter, but in this case it is better to install a damper.

Advice! If the bathhouse is located in a lowland or stands close to other buildings, it is necessary to make not two, but four ventilation holes on each side of the foundation.

Ventilation ducts are mounted during the pouring of the foundation. For their formation, asbestos-cement or plastic pipes are used. The distance from the ground to the blower is at least 15 centimeters.

The specifics of ventilation in the bath in the steam room

Ventilation in the steam room should work during the bath procedure. At the end of it, the steam room is usually ventilated by opening the doors wide open in order to remove wet steam from the room as quickly as possible.

What is needed for high-quality ventilation in the steam room of the bath? The scheme of its device is simple: the air should not come from adjacent rooms, but from the street.

In this diagram, it is noted that the air enters the steam room from under the furnace body. Cool air masses will quickly warm up and not change the temperature regime of the steam room. The exhaust air flow is discharged through a channel located in the far corner of the room. Such a layout is suitable if the firebox is located directly in the steam room.

If the stove is located outside the steam room and is connected to it by a furnace tunnel, the location of the ventilation channels should be slightly changed. The inlet channel is located under the floor or directly above the floor and is led out at the pre-furnace area, covered with a sheet of metal or ceramic tiles. The inlet is closed with a grate.

Note! The supply duct must be the same diameter as the exhaust duct.

Air exchange in the washing room

This is the wettest room in the bath, and here it is important to think about the movement of air masses in such a way that the floors and walls dry out quickly, but there is no draft. The most common ventilation option in washing a bath with wooden floors is under the floor.

Air can enter the space under the floor naturally or with the help of forcibly supplying it from the street.

The task is a little more difficult if the floors in the washing room are concrete, covered with ceramic tiles. In this case, it will be necessary to install supply valves in the walls.

Important! For the arrangement of ventilation in the washing bath, only moisture-resistant materials are used. The most practical is plastic.

A little about ventilation in the dressing room

The problem in the dressing room is the same as in the rest of the rooms: high humidity. Requirements for ventilation of the dressing room:

• supply and exhaust air ducts must be of the same diameter;
• the supply air duct should not be connected to the bathroom;
• the height of the exhaust duct is not less than 2 meters;
• in the case of forced ventilation, moisture-resistant materials are used.

Expert opinion

“In order to increase the air exchange rate, an axial fan is used, which creates a low pressure area and draws atmospheric flows into the room.”

A few tips for arranging the dressing room:

1. In this room, you should not install blind windows. One or two vents will greatly simplify the process of ventilation.
2. The dressing room should be carefully insulated to prevent temperature differences and condensation.
3. Ventilation ducts should not connect the steam room dressing rooms.

The dimensions of the dressing room are calculated based on the formula 1.5 sq.m. × 1 person.

How to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands

Modern manufacturers offer a wide range of ready-made kits for room ventilation. You can use these suggestions or make a system yourself. There are three options for organizing air exchange:

The choice between these three types of air exchange depends not only on the financial capabilities of the owner of the bath, but also on the type of building. Proper ventilation in the bath takes into account the materials of the walls and floor, the location of the heaters, the placement of the bath relative to other buildings on the site.

Frame bath

Ventilation in the frame bath should be equipped in such a way as not to disturb the multilayer structure of the walls. Frame buildings are completely sealed, so it is important to organize a full-fledged air exchange in order to avoid the appearance of mustiness and dampness. In this case, the installation of combined or mechanical ventilation is justified.

Important! Places for installation of air ducts should be laid at the design stage.

The location of the ventilation ducts in the frame bath is traditionally - at the bottom - the supply flow, in the opposite corner - the exhaust.

wooden bath

Wood is an eco-friendly material that “breathes” by itself. The gaps between the logs also contribute to natural ventilation in the log cabin. But it should be borne in mind that the bath is a room with special operating conditions, therefore, one should not be limited to the natural conditions of air exchange.

Expert opinion

HVAC design engineer (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) LLC "ASP North-West"

“The opinion that it is necessary to install windows of non-standard, small size in wooden baths is erroneous. Double-glazed windows must be of high quality and save heat - this is the only requirement.”

Natural ventilation in a wooden bath can be slightly improved by using forced air supply to the steam room. The rest of the log house itself will cope well with the task.

Brick and stone bath

Brick and stone buildings are durable. The walls themselves are resistant to moisture, but usually they are sheathed from the inside with natural clapboard, and this material needs protection. If there is no good ventilation in a brick bath, the sheathing material will inevitably become moldy and deformed. To avoid this, it is necessary to distribute the air flows in such a way that they penetrate under the skin material. For this purpose, the finishing material is fixed on the crate and holes are left for air flow. Small fans are used to force air into the ventilation slots. This technique guarantees the absence of mustiness and dampness.

Important! The tightness of the brickwork forces the use of ventilation ducts of a larger diameter, about 20 centimeters.

What is Bastu and how to use it in the bath

This is a type of natural air exchange, which is often used in Swedish. Basta ventilation scheme in the bath:

Installation of this system is extremely simple and does not require any special tools and knowledge. The stainless steel supply pipe is mounted diagonally from the firebox twenty centimeters from the floor. The second pipe installs directly above the stove in the wall. Dampers are installed on both ducts to control flows.

In the sauna, such a system works flawlessly. But using it for a classic Russian bath should be carefully considered. The Russian bath always uses moist steam, but the air temperature is lower than in the sauna. The use of Bastu ventilation in a Russian bath can lead to an unjustified loss of precious heat. To avoid losses, it is necessary to use valves. During bathing procedures, they are closed, and after them and in the process of kindling, the dampers are opened.

Note! If the dampers are opened during kindling, the temperature in the steam room will rise much more slowly. In addition, fuel consumption will increase. And if you do not open it, carbon dioxide can accumulate.

It should be noted that Bastu will function for a long time and reliably, it does not require any maintenance and repair. Among the disadvantages of this technique, it should be mentioned that on windy days there will be a strong draft in the steam room. In addition, Bastu does not provide for the use of filters for air purification.

Ventilation device in the bath: a complete set of systems

Depending on the principle of operation of ventilation, components for its installation are selected. Consider the individual elements of systems that may be useful for a bath.

Window in the bath: where to place, how to install

Windows are an important element not only for lighting, but also for ventilation of a bath building. First of all, is it worth making a window in the steam room? There is an opinion that a window in the steam room will adversely affect the preservation of steam and temperature. But, on the other hand, without a window it is difficult to ventilate the steam room after the bath procedure.

Experienced attendants recommend installing two windows in the steam room. One is placed above the shelves. If you overdid it and the steam is too hot, or someone felt unwell during the procedure, open the window a little and the problem will be solved. If the bathhouse works continuously and there is little time between visits, this window is used to quickly change the atmosphere in the room. After such a burst of ventilation, the furnace is re-heated, and the temperature quickly returns to normal.

The second window is located under the shelves. With it, you can quickly dry the beds. It is made quite small and opaque.

Important! Bathroom windows should open inwards. This is required for safety.

The washing window is also used for ventilation, as well as for emergency evacuation in case of fire. So its size should be such that a person can squeeze into the frame.

Another important question: is it possible to use plastic windows in the bath? In the washing room, of course, you can. But in a steam room, if you “catch up” with the temperature to hundreds of degrees, the plastic can begin to release toxic substances and deform. For the frames of the windows in the steam room, non-resinous wood is used.

Note! For bath windows, it is better to use double-glazed windows with reliable sealing.

You can completely master the installation of windows in the bath with your own hands, it is no different from installing windows in the house.

Fans and systems with them

For forced air exchange, the following components are required:

• lattice;
• ventilation valve;
• valve;
• duct box;
• mosquito net;
• fan.

The grid and mesh filter will prevent insects and domestic rodents from entering the duct. Taking into account the specifics of the operation of the premises, metal meshes are used, and gratings are made of wood or plastic that is resistant to high temperatures. For the air duct, galvanized pipes or corrugated hoses are often used. It is not recommended to use plastic pipes in a steam room, they are not suitable for high-temperature operation.

Experts recommend installing it in one channel, that is, for example, only in the supply. Bath fans must be made of heat-resistant materials, and all parts of its mechanism must be securely sealed.

Video: how to make a bladeless fan with your own hands

Vent valves

These simple devices are installed in the supply and exhaust ducts. The size, shape and design of the valve can be selected in accordance with the interior of the room. There are two main types of valves on sale - they are abbreviated as KIV (air infiltration valve) and KPV (forced ventilation valve).

The principle of their work is the same, outwardly they also differ little. The vent valve for the bath is easy to install yourself. Its base can be shortened according to the thickness of the walls. The outside of the damper has slanted louvers that prevent rain from entering the ventilation system. The inner part is equipped with a cap and membranes for heat and sound insulation. All valves are fitted with mosquito nets.

A few tips for valve installation:

• choose a valve for a bath made of heat-resistant materials;
• valves are usually installed in load-bearing walls;
• do not install the valve in the walls that lead to an outdoor toilet or garbage can.

Air and vents in the bath

The products in the baths are rounded, square, rectangular. They are installed in the thickness of the foundation and on the roof.

The vent is placed evenly with a distance of 2 meters. If there are any internal partitions in the basement, then air vents are also mounted in them. These simple ventilation ducts are also fitted with mouse screens.

Some craftsmen advise closing the vents for the winter, hermetically sealing them with rags or sandbags. This approach is fraught with the formation of high humidity in the underground and the rapid decay of wood.

How to make an outlet in the bath in the following video:

Bath extractor

If the bath on the site is attached to a residential building, the hood is installed in such a way that the air moves from the dwelling to the bath, and not vice versa. Professionals do not recommend installing the hood directly under the ceiling. With this arrangement of the exhaust opening, a draft will walk in the room.

Do-it-yourself exhaust scheme in the bath:

How to make a hood in the bath in this video:

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath: a step-by-step guide with a photo

Installing ventilation in the bath with your own hands is not a difficult task. In the simplest version, only asbestos-cement pipes and gratings are required, which can be selected according to the diameter of the channel.

We offer you a master class on how to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands using a supply valve (if the walls are made using frame technology):

Illustration	Work in progress
	Disassemble the valve into its component parts.
	Draw a circle around the duct on the wall with a marker or pencil.
	Drill a few holes in the casing. They must be of large diameter so that a jigsaw knife can fit in the hole.
	Use a jigsaw to cut out a circle in the skin.
	Remove the wooden part.
	Remove the insulation and vapor barrier.
	Use a long drill to drill into the outer casing so as not to make a mistake with the location of the outer part of the valve.
	Make a hole on the outside, focusing on the marks of the long drill. First draw a circle with a marker.
	Saw off the valve tube to the desired length (wall thickness). This can be done with a hacksaw.
	Install the duct tube in the prepared hole.
	Fix the inside of the valve to the wall with self-tapping screws.
	Fasten the outer part of the valve.

Such valves can be installed in the washing room and dressing room.

Summing up

High-quality air exchange is an important aspect of arranging a bath. Without it, your building will not last long. The walls and floor will be covered with mold, the boards will quickly rot. Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath is not difficult to do. You can organize a natural flow of air or activate it with the help of fans. It is best to organize the movement of air masses not only directly in the room itself, but also under the floor and behind the wall cladding. So you are guaranteed to save the materials and provide a comfortable climate in the bathhouse.

In the process of arranging the bath, special attention should be paid to the organization of high-quality ventilation. Without proper air exchange, the steam room simply cannot be used normally. If desired, all work on the installation of the necessary systems can be done by hand. It is enough just to figure out the order of laying and connecting the main units and do everything in accordance with the instructions.

Bath ventilation is very important. To avoid lengthy and not very interesting explanations, you can consider everything with a specific example.

The visitor to the bath stays in a room filled with a large amount of hot steam. The person inhales this vapor. We know that humans breathe in oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide. In the absence of sufficient air exchange, after a while a person will simply burn out.

That is why the ventilation in the bath should be as efficient as possible and made in full accordance with the technology. There are several types of ventilation systems. Explore the features of each option and choose the method that best suits your case.

Ventilation systems are installed to solve two main tasks, namely:

• ensuring the supply of clean air to the bath;
• removal of exhaust air from the steam room.

Additionally, ventilation provides faster and better drying of the steam room. It is necessary to study the features of existing ventilation systems and understand the order of their installation in order to obtain the most efficient and high-quality air exchange.

It is important that during the operation of the ventilation system the temperature regime characteristic of the bath is not violated. Air exchange should be organized in such a way that there are no disturbances in the distribution of temperature flows in the bath. Cool air in the steam room can only be near the floor. And the higher the ceiling, the higher the air temperature should be.

Ventilation should not remove clean air from the bath. A properly equipped system supplies fresh air to the room and removes the exhaust air. Errors in the installation of the system will lead to extremely adverse consequences for both the bath and its visitors.

The main types of ventilation systems

There are several types of air exchange systems suitable for use in a bath, namely:

Exhaust air is removed from the bath through a special ventilation duct. The air exchange installation technology requires that the duct be installed diagonally to the inlet through which fresh air enters the bath.

Take care of the ventilation device in all areas of the bath, and not just in the steam room. The dressing room, rest room and other rooms of the bath should also be well ventilated.

What you need to know about floor ventilation?

Quite often, the owners of the baths forget that the floor of the steam room must also be well ventilated. Such forgetfulness leads to a very rapid deterioration of the structural elements of the floor and, in general, a deterioration in the characteristics of the bath.

Floors are constantly in contact with water. Without properly organized air exchange, the floor will collapse very quickly, and the floor covering will have to be changed after 2-3 years.

You need to think about floor ventilation even at the stage of bath construction, because. in an already finished room, it will be much more difficult to create high-quality air exchange.

First stage. Make small vents in opposite walls of the basement. It is best to provide for these vents at the stage of construction of the concrete base of the bath. Creating any holes in an already finished structure will lead to some decrease in the strength of the building.

Second phase. Make one ventilation hole in opposite walls of the serviced room. Through them, clean air will flow into the room. Holes must be through. Ready channels are recommended to be closed with special ventilation grilles. Such protection will not allow all sorts of rodents and other pests to enter the bath.

Third stage. When building a furnace, make sure that its blower is slightly below the level of the finished floor. Thanks to this placement, the oven will also start working in the hood mode.

Fourth stage. Lay floor boards. When laying them, you need to leave gaps about 7-10 mm wide. Through these cracks, water can flow down. If the liquid lingers on the floor every time, the boards will rot very quickly.

Quite often, floor ventilation is arranged “according to Bast”. According to this technology, fresh air comes from under the stove, and exhaust oxygen is removed through a hole under the ceiling.

In accordance with the requirements of fire safety, a metal sheet must lie near the sauna stove. It is near this sheet that a hole is created to supply fresh air to the bath.

For the device of such air exchange, a special exhaust duct is required. You can buy a box ready-made or assemble it yourself from boards. The inner surface of the exhaust box must be covered with foil. The size of the box should be approximately 15-20% larger than the diameter of the chimney.

Ventilation "according to Bast" is the best option for those cases when the stove is located directly in the steam room. In such a situation, ventilation ducts can be equipped even directly in a brick podium.

Pay attention to the installation location of the sauna stove. If the stove is located directly in the steam room, then natural air exchange is present initially. You just don’t need to rely solely on it - such ventilation only works when the stove is running.

The most optimal option for installing ventilation is the arrangement of air exchange channels on opposite walls of the bath. They must be at different heights.

It is not recommended to place the ventilation holes too high. Although in most other cases it is recommended to make an exhaust hole directly under the ceiling, slightly different rules apply in baths. If you place the hood directly under the ceiling, hot air will leave the room very quickly.

For baths, the optimal height for placing ventilation holes is a level equal to 1-1.5 m.

Bath ventilation installation guide

There are several simple ways to organize effective air exchange in the bath. Study each of them and choose the best one for your steam room.

First way. Create an opening for fresh air. It should be behind the stove, about half a meter from the floor. Make a hole for exhaust air from the side opposite to the inlet, at a height of about 30 cm from the floor level. Install a fan in the outlet.

The lower you place the exhaust duct, the more intense the air exchange will be.

However, there is no need to be too zealous either. Try to make holes at the recommended height, as such values ​​are the most optimal. Openings are recommended to be closed with ventilation grilles.

The second way. With this air exchange, both vents will be on the same wall. Work will be carried out with a wall parallel to the stove. The inlet duct is created at a level of about 30 cm from the floor, the exhaust duct is at the same distance from the ceiling of the bath. The exhaust opening is equipped with a fan. Close open channels with ventilation grilles.

The third way. Make a hole behind the sauna stove for air to enter. Position the intake duct about 20 cm from the floor surface. The exhaust channel is made at approximately the same height, but in the opposite wall. The exhaust opening is equipped with a fan. Close open channels with ventilation grilles.

Fourth way. This air exchange option is great for baths, the flooring of which is laid with slots to drain water. Make an inlet behind the stove unit at a distance of about 30 cm from the floor surface. An exhaust hole is not made in the case of such ventilation - the exhaust air will leave the bath through the cracks in the floor covering, and only after that it will be discharged to the street through a common ventilation pipe.

Fifth way. Such ventilation is ideal for baths with a constantly working furnace unit. Install the inlet channel opposite the stove, stepping back about 30 cm from the floor. The function of the hood will be performed by the oven.

Thus, the procedure for arranging ventilation is practically the same in all the considered methods. Each of them involves the creation of one or two holes, only the place and height of their placement change.

You can also make the holes yourself. Brick walls are easily traversed with a puncher, and log walls with any tool suitable for this, for example, a wood drill. It is recommended to put plastic pipes into the finished holes. Don't forget about protective ventilation grilles. In the future, you are unlikely to be happy with uninvited guests in the form of rodents.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath

In order for bath procedures to bring only benefit and pleasure, two conditions are necessary:

• high level of temperature and humidity in the steam room;
• the presence of a sufficient amount of oxygen.

These seemingly mutually exclusive tasks are solved by ventilation in the bathhouse in general and in the steam room in particular. Despite the fact that high humidity and temperature should be maintained in the steam room of the Russian bath, one cannot do without access to fresh (cold) air: oxygen is processed by our lungs, partially burned out by the stove, and carbon monoxide (CO is the chemical formula carbon monoxide).

How to make ventilation in the bath. In the figure, red arrows show the movement of hot air, blue - cold

If you do not organize the replacement of “exhausted” air with fresh air, instead of improving health and increasing efficiency (this is what we go to the bath for), you can get lethargy, weakness and headache at best, and at worst - a hospital bed or even a place in the cemetery.

Properly arranged ventilation provides air circulation, while oxygen enters in sufficient quantities, and carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide are released into the atmosphere. After the end of the bath procedures, with good ventilation, the steam is actively removed outside the building, and the rooms in which there was previously high humidity dry out. If this aspect was not given sufficient attention, after a couple of years in the steam room, and then in other rooms, the lining rots, the smell of mustiness and sweat appears and gradually increases, and the wood turns into dust. Now, I hope, it is clear whether ventilation is needed in the bath ...

Ventilation in the bath is not needed in only one case: if it is all built of wood and has not been insulated anywhere - neither inside nor outside. In this case, air exchange occurs due to the fact that the wood "breathes". Even in this case, they talk about the presence of natural ventilation in the bath: any wood has pores and cracks through which the outflow / inflow of air occurs, temperature and humidity are regulated. But if there is insulation or moisture / vapor insulation in the bath from rounded logs, then the creation of additional ventilation holes is necessary.

There are three types of ventilation:

1. mechanical ventilation. In this case, the inflow and outflow of air masses occurs due to artificially created air movement. Air parameters are controlled by technical means.
2. Natural ventilation: circulation occurs due to the difference in pressure inside and outside the room. This method is possible only if there are "breathing" walls or thoughtfully arranged ventilation vents.
3. Combined ventilation: the simultaneous use of the natural movement of air masses and technical devices (in the simplest case, fans).

The video below shows a variant of combined ventilation.

In a specific case, 100 micron aluminum foil was used in the construction of the ventilation duct.

Bath ventilation device

In the simplest version, the ventilation system of a steam room or bath consists of two (sometimes more) holes in the walls and / or foundation: supply and exhaust. The whole trick is in choosing the location of these holes and in their sizes. Sometimes, to provide more active air exchange, fans can be installed.

There is no single ventilation scheme for a bath: they are too different both in design features and in the materials from which they are made. But there are general rules and some of the most common schemes, adhering to which, you can choose the optimal ventilation for your particular case.

The dimensions of the ventilation openings are calculated based on the volume of the steam room: for one cubic meter of ventilated area, the size of the openings should be 24 cm 2.

Despite the fact that the main task in the bath is to maintain high humidity in the steam room and a sufficient level of temperature, it is impossible to make the ventilation holes too small: they will not provide the necessary level of air exchange. Exhaust vents must match the size of the supply: if the proportions are violated, air exchange will also be insufficient. In some cases, to speed up the removal of exhaust air and speed up the drying of the bath, two exhaust holes can be made.

To ensure the required air conditions when heating the steam room, special covers / plugs are made on the ventilation ducts that can be opened / closed from the steam room, thereby regulating humidity / temperature / air exchange. Generally speaking, the presence of plugs or covers on any vent facing the street is a must: in winter, cold air actively rushes into a warm room and the presence of covers or regulators to stop it is necessary.

Where can there be supply and exhaust openings

Most often, at least partially located in the steam room. In this case, the supply hole is made near the furnace at a distance no higher than 30 cm from the floor. The incoming cold air quickly warms up from the furnace and rises. This is quite popular, but not the best way to organize ventilation for a bath. Ventilation is much more effective when the supply holes are located in the foundation under the floor (so that rodents do not penetrate through them, the holes are equipped with metal bars). This option solves two problems at once: it delivers fresh air to the bath, and also effectively dries the floors and walls after the procedures are completed. The floor boards, in this case, are not laid close, but with a small gap for the free passage of air. If you don’t want to leave gaps in the floor (although this is very good for a bath), you can make several ventilation holes in the floor, covered with wooden grates. The air movement in this case will not be so active, more powerful fans may be needed, but the circuit will remain operational.

When planning the supply vents in the foundation, keep in mind that the air in the bath should come from the street, and not from the underground, otherwise it will have a musty smell. To organize air intake from the street, a box made of wood (often home-made), plastic or metal (ready-made) is placed in the hole, and it is also taken out near the stove. Usually, the inlets are located in the area that is protected by a metal or asbestos sheet from coals and firebrands.

Ventilation openings in the foundation are provided at the planning stage. If the foundation is already ready, but there are no ventilation holes, you can make the floor ventilation in the steam room differently: lay the floor boards on the logs, but not close to each other, but with a gap of 0.5-1 cm. In the gap between the draft (earth / concrete) floor and the finishing floor, an outlet is arranged, which passes into a ventilation pipe that leads the exhaust air to the roof (but not to the attic). This option provides for the presence of only one inlet, which is usually arranged below the heater. The exhaust pipe under the floor is installed on the opposite side of the room (but not opposite, but obliquely).

It is impossible to make an exhaust pipe in a steam room from plastic boxes for ventilation - they cannot withstand high temperatures, but it is permissible to use them in a locker room or washing department.

With such a ventilation scheme in the steam room, cold air warms up near the stove, rises, then, cooling down, falls down, seeps through the cracks in the floor under the floor and is discharged through the outlet pipe. These two options effectively remove moisture after the bath, they can also be considered floor ventilation schemes in the bath.

Exhaust openings can be located on the opposite wall from the supply opening (if both of these walls face the street) or on the same wall, but in the opposite corner. There is a scheme in which they are located at the top on the opposite wall (30 cm from the ceiling), sometimes they are located below (30 cm from the floor). If the exhaust vent is at the bottom or on the same wall as the supply vent, a fan is needed to create airflow.

In order for the ventilation in the bath to remain effective, it is impossible:

• make ventilation vents smaller than calculated ones;
• to place the supply and exhaust openings one opposite the other - so the incoming air is almost immediately removed without giving up oxygen, a draft is formed, which is contraindicated for a bath.

Steam room ventilation schemes

Consider some of the most common options for ventilation in the steam room:

These are the most commonly used ventilation schemes for steam rooms in the bath, there are many more variations and combinations. Based on these four options for organizing ventilation, you can develop a scheme for your steam room.

Ventilation in the washing section of the bath

In the washing room, high humidity is a common thing, and so that the lining does not rot or an unpleasant smell appears, it is necessary to provide floor ventilation. It is arranged similarly to floor ventilation in a steam room: an exhaust hole is made between the rough and finishing floor, which can be equipped with a fan. The exhaust pipe is displayed on the roof.

With such a floor ventilation scheme in the washing compartment, the coldest exhaust air is removed, and the warmer one from the upper layers descends in its place. Thus, an increase in the comfort of the people living here is also achieved.

The principle of the ventilation device in all other rooms of the bath is the same. You need to decide on the optimal ventilation system specifically for your conditions and select / develop the most suitable scheme. The ventilation in the washing department differs only in that, due to lower air temperatures, plastic ventilation ducts can be used here (which cannot be done in the steam room) and fans can be installed not heat-resistant, but only tolerant of high humidity (moisture-proof).

Brick and Turkish bath ventilation

When planning a ventilation system for a brick bath, it must be taken into account that its efficiency should be several times higher than that of a wooden one. Indeed, in this case, it will be necessary to dry not only the inner lining of the steam room / washing / locker room, but also the walls: brick is a very hygroscopic material. To remove all moisture, it is necessary that the inflow / outflow of air during drying be very active, and the vents should have reliable dampers that allow you to adjust the intensity of air movement.

When arranging ventilation with its 100% humidity, exhaust ventilation must also be very efficient: in an hour of operation, it is necessary to provide six changes of air in the room. In addition, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of removing condensate, which forms during cooling in large quantities. There are two ways to solve this problem: install an air dryer in the pipe, which discharges condensate into the sewer system, or provide a channel for condensate drainage in the ventilation pipe (it also goes into the sewer).

Conclusion: it is necessary to plan ventilation at the design stage of the bath, placing supply vents in the foundation. If necessary, you can make vents in the finished walls, but this is quite troublesome and difficult.