Covering the walls with clapboard on the sheathing. Installation of lining: instructions for installing wooden panels and caring for them (80 photos) How to attach lining to the wall

For the finish to look attractive, it must be properly secured.

When considering the question of how to attach lining to a wall, most reviews recommend only one option for carrying out the work. We will analyze as many as 3 methods; you need to choose the one that is best suited to your conditions and will ensure maximum reliability. After reading this review, you will understand all the nuances and easily carry out the work on your own.

Mounting methods

We will look at how to properly secure the lining to wooden frame in different ways. Each of them has its pros and cons, so please read all the information below carefully.

Option 1 - using finishing nails

This fastener for lining is traditional and has been used for several decades; for this work we will need special nails with a reduced head. The length should be such that 2/3 of the nail fits into the bar; most often, products with a length of 30 to 40 mm are used. The price of 100 grams is 40-50 rubles, so this is also the most cheap way fastenings

Let's figure out how the lining is attached in this case:

• The first installation option is fastening into a groove, that is, into a recess on one of the sides; in this case, the nail is driven in at an angle of 45 degrees and covered with the next element. Below is a diagram of this technology;

• You can also fix elements through a tenon; below we show how to properly fasten the lining with nails in in this case. Here the nail is also covered by the next element, ensuring perfect appearance finishing;

• Having chosen the option that you will use, you can get to work. Before attaching the lining to the wall, it is necessary to cut the elements to the required length so that there are gaps of several mm to compensate for deformations of the material due to temperature changes;
• The first element in the corner on one side is fixed through the top; anyway, the corner is covered with a plinth or other decorative element. On the other side, a nail is driven into the tenon or groove; this is done very carefully so as not to split the material or damage it. This way you can finish walls and ceilings quickly and reliably.

Advice! Nails thicker than 1.4 mm should not be used, as they are much more likely to split the material.

Option 2 – use of clamps

It is impossible to understand the question of how to fasten wooden lining, and not to mention clamps, this is the name of special staples that are placed on the tenon of elements and secured with nails. For lining, option No. 4 is used, and for block house and imitation timber - No. 5. The products are sold in packs of 100 pieces and cost about 50 rubles per pack; carnations are included.

Instructions for doing the work yourself include the following steps:

• To begin with, the number of fasteners is calculated, they are located on each edge of the frame, you need to multiply the number of structure edges by the number of lining panels;
• The location of the clamps when the elements are arranged vertically does not matter, but if the finishing is located horizontally, then they should be at the bottom;

• The working process is very simple: the lining is put in place, fits well with the previous element, after which clamps are placed and secured with small nails. To make it easier to hammer them in, use a spacer.

Advice! If you want to ensure higher fastening strength, then instead of nails you can use self-tapping screws for fastening clamps; the 3x20 mm option is best suited.

Option 3 - use self-tapping screws

If you are thinking about how to fix the lining to the wall as securely as possible, then self-tapping screws are best. Their use is fraught with some difficulties, but the fixation strength will be maximum, and if necessary, the finish can be disassembled without damaging it, which is also important.

The workflow in this case looks like this:

• In the groove connection of the lining, holes are drilled at an angle of 45 degrees with a 3 mm thick drill;
• The element is attached to the sheathing, tightly joined, after which a self-tapping screw is screwed into it. The work should be done very carefully: the cap should sink into the material so as not to interfere with the joining, but at the same time you should not press too hard so that the wood does not crack.

The question is often asked about what to attach PVC lining to; in this case, all of the above options are suitable. Alternatively, you can use a simpler option - construction stapler, it is perfect for plastic.

Different materials can be used for surface finishing. They are selected based on their characteristics, properties and, of course, cost.

One of the common options for surface cladding is lining. However, to use it, you need to understand how to attach the lining to the wall.

In this article we will take a closer look at installation methods, the advantages and disadvantages of each option.

Ways to fasten the lining

Installation of lining on walls is best done using lathing - a wooden frame. To do this, all the sheathing bars, both in the horizontal and vertical planes, must be level.

Even minor mistakes can, over time, lead to depressions and bulges that will be visible on the walls.

After the installation of the sheathing is completed, the lining is fastened. Below you can see a diagram of the lathing for surface finishing.

Keep in mind that if the lining is used to cover surfaces in a bathhouse, the material must be pre-treated with antiseptics.

The installation of the lining will not depend on the fastening method. The work will be the same for walls and ceilings. There are two ways to place boards:

1. Vertical. With this method of placement, work begins from one of the nodes. The first board is fastened with the groove facing outwards. The next plank is inserted into the previous one. Upon completion of fastening the board, use a level to check the evenness of its placement.
2. Horizontal. With this placement, the tenon of the board is directed upward, this allows water to roll down the finish. This installation begins from the ceiling.

After all the boards are installed, insert into the groove of the finishing panel small area boards, which is nailed with a hammer. This trick will allow you to tightly connect all the planks and prevent the appearance of cracks or holes.

When installing lining near the floor and ceiling, you need to leave a small hole of about 2 cm. This will protect against sudden changes temperatures and provide additional ventilation. If this is not done, the boards may swell after a certain time. After finishing is completed, the cracks are covered with plinth.

Regardless of the chosen fastening method, the first and last planks are attached using nails with a small head.

The remaining panels can be attached in the following ways:

• using screws, self-tapping screws or nails;
• clasps. This is the name for clamps that have a design with a special holder that holds the tenon of the board;
• construction stapler.

You can choose any mounting method. But keep in mind that the board is first nailed to the middle beam of the sheathing and only then along the edges. Then the evenness of the placement is checked using a level, after which the board is attached to the rest of the sheathing bars.

Fastening with nails

This method is one of the simplest and cheapest, but it is not capable of ensuring a long service life of the structure. When driven in, a nail can damage the panel, which will significantly reduce the strength of the fastener. To avoid this, you can use a punch or pre-make holes in in the right area panels.

For one board standard sizes You will need approximately 6-7 nails. Such fastening will affect the appearance of the finish, so cracks and other defects will remain at the place of driving in. But in some situations, this fastening method is the only possible solution.

For this work, galvanized nails with a length of about 6 mm are used. They are carefully driven into the groove of the board and hammered in with a hammer. The caps are driven inside using a hammer, this will allow you to easily install the next plank.

Fastening with self-tapping screws

This method is used for buildings where the appearance of the walls does not have special significance. You can often find the use of this method for building baths.

But high humidity and sudden changes in temperature can lead to drying out of the fasteners, which will further worsen the appearance. This can be prevented by treating the finish with special antiseptics.

For prevention, it is better to treat the boards every three months.

Self-tapping screws are fairly high-quality fasteners, so if a long service life of the finish is required, their use can be considered the optimal solution.

To carry out such fasteners, you will need to pre-drill holes in the boards. Their diameter should be equal to half the thickness of the fastener.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the board using a screwdriver. They must enter to the maximum possible depth. To hide the fastening site, you can use a wooden pin or sand the surface.

Fastening with a stapler

How to properly attach lining to a wall using a stapler? This procedure is quite easy and will not take much of your time and effort. But at the same time, you will need to know how to use such a tool. For more information on how to fasten lining with a stapler, watch this video:

Staples must be inserted at an angle of 45°. If the insertion procedure was performed correctly, the subsequent bar installation procedure will proceed without complications.

Fastening with clamps

Clamps allow for hidden fastening of almost any finish.

At the same time, the fixation will be strong and guarantee a long service life.

Installing lining using such devices will achieve the following advantages:

1. At making the right choice size of the fastener, you can install it discreetly and guarantee its strength.
2. The clamps are made of high-carbon steel, which allows them to withstand high levels of moisture and sudden changes in temperature for a long time. This allows you to use this method of fastening in bathhouses.

To install eurolining of a standard profile, clamps with a tongue height of about 4 mm are purchased, and for fastening a block house - 6 mm. To finish 1 m2 of surface you will need about 20 clamps.

With this method of fixation, the plate is placed on the tenon of the first panel and secured to the sheathing using nails or self-tapping screws.

There are three holes for fixing, but only two can be used. It is better not to install the lining on one nail, as it can be torn out.

It is better to screw in screws using a screwdriver. This will significantly speed up and facilitate the process.

Horizontal installation of lining

When placing the boards horizontally, installation can be done from the bottom of the wall. With this choice, you can clearly see how best to attach the trim. In the ceiling section, the final board is cut to width, which will significantly deteriorate the decorative component. In addition, with this installation method there will be holes between the boards, which will negatively affect the high rates moisture in a bath or sauna. For more information on how to clap a house horizontally, watch this video:

Therefore, generally when placed horizontally, the boards begin to be fastened from the top of the wall. The first panel is installed with the groove down directly under the ceiling. The next element is fastened with the first ridge into the groove of the previous one.

All boards are installed according to this scheme. The final strip is cut to width and inserted using a pry bar or nail puller. A small hole near the floor is hidden using a plinth.

As you can see, fastening the lining can be done in different ways. The choice depends only on your personal preferences and knowledge. The work is quite easy, so professional help, most likely, will not be required.

Modern building materials and technologies make it possible to build baths from various materials. For walls you can use foam blocks, insulated frame panels, sandwich panels, profiled or glued beams. The interior upholstery is made from glued and plastic lining(“original” solution), waterproof OSB and fiberboard boards, etc. Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages, each finds its consumer depending on preferences and the “thickness of the wallet.”

We will not consider these modern options, let's talk about the most classic, reliable and time-tested option for building a bathhouse - from ordinary sawn timber, we use it for the interior upholstery of the bathhouse natural lining. Doesn't have of great importance, what kind of lining - ordinary traditional or europrofile. These are our initial data; for other options, the upholstery technology will have minor differences.

Work stages

Any work requires careful preliminary preparation, the better everything is thought out and prepared, the faster the upholstery will be done and the cheaper it will cost.

Where to start:

• preparation of instruments;
• room measurements and calculations required quantity material;
• preparation of load-bearing surfaces;
• frame installation;
• clapboard upholstery;
• finishing final works.

Let us immediately note that there are no less important or more important operations; an inattentive or unprofessional attitude towards any of them can cause quite unpleasant situations to arise; in some cases, a defect is very difficult to correct, and this is fraught with large additional financial losses. In addition to money, time and nerves are lost.

Preparing tools

To perform upholstery work you will need following tools and devices.

1. Tape measure and pencil for measurements.
2. Level. Now there is large selection fairly accurate levels, can be purchased additionally laser device. But there is one problem - these tools are quite expensive, you need to use them skillfully. But this does not guarantee against quite large errors during marking. We recommend using old and very precise methods– check the vertical using an ordinary plumb line, and beat the horizontal with a hydraulic level. Despite their simplicity and low cost, these devices have the most high accuracy measurements.
3. Electric hand saw or a hacksaw. We advise you to use an electric saw - at a cost it satisfies most consumers, makes work much easier and faster, and improves the quality and accuracy of the cut.
4. Hammer, nail puller, etc. necessary little things carpenter

   
   
   
   
   
   
   

We took into account that upholstery will not be done by professionals; they have expensive tools and equipment. For an ordinary “dacha owner”, purchasing such expensive things to perform one-time, small-volume work is not economically profitable.

Prices for electric hand saws

hand-held electric circular saw

Video - About lining in the bathhouse and installation principles

Measurement of premises and calculation of materials

The ceiling and walls need to be covered with lining, therefore their area needs to be measured. There is nothing complicated, you just need to be careful. Based on the data obtained, the lining is purchased.

1. Firstly, when performing any work it will not be possible to completely avoid unproductive waste. What if practical experience If there is not enough work done, then the amount of waste may increase to 15% or more.
2. Secondly, not all purchased lining will be of high quality, unfortunately.

Another point - when purchasing a lining, select its length and width in such a way as to minimize the number of cuts, this will help reduce waste. To do this, you need to compare its length with the dimensions of the walls and ceiling. If you get a multiple number, great; if not, then the pieces should be long, which will allow them to be used during upholstery.

The slats for the frame must have a thickness of at least one centimeter; they also need to be purchased with a reserve, especially since they cost pennies.

You can buy copper or galvanized nails, they are highly praised by manufacturers. But we dare to assure you that ordinary nails will serve for many years, and they cost several times less. If you plan to fasten the lining with special clamps, you will have to buy them too.

A few words need to be said about the impregnation of lining and slats with various antiseptics. It is advisable to do this operation, but not necessary. Conifers wood will last for decades even without impregnation, but over time it is better to completely replace the lining. Impregnation not only inhibits the growth of microorganisms and bacteria, but little by little it also poisons us.

Palette of aged wood - textured lining

Impregnation for wood - the result of pronounced moisture resistance

Claimer prices

Preparation of load-bearing surfaces

Surface preparation includes leveling them and, if desired, additional insulation. There is no need to level each individual beam, only level those to which the wooden batten will be attached.

The slats, by the way, can arrive horizontally or vertically. Accordingly, the lining in such cases will be mounted vertically or horizontally.

Video - Installation of lining

It is better to check the evenness of the walls using a rope stretched in the corners of the bathhouse, or a long, straight rope wooden slats. It is advisable to use a rope, it is more accurate and faster. Stretch the rope as close to the floor and ceiling as possible, and use a flat rod to check the distance from the wall surfaces to the rope. If large bulges are found, they will have to be cut down; the depressions will be leveled out during the installation of the sheathing. And not all of them, but only those where the slats will need to be attached.

Frame installation

Very important point– the final result largely depends on the thoroughness of all operations. What should you pay attention to? Distance between slats. Specific values ​​depend on the thickness of the lining, but we recommend installing the slats at a distance of ≈ 40 centimeters. Strength and reliability will increase significantly, and the amount of work and quantity of materials will increase slightly. How to make lathing? Let's consider the option vertical installation rack It goes without saying that electrical cables already laid.

1. Nail the two outer slats in the corners; nail them level.
2. Stretch a rope between them.
3. Mark the distance between the remaining slats and nail them along the rope. If necessary, under the slats you need to put wooden spacers for their precise alignment.

The slats are nailed in the same sequence on all other surfaces.

Installation of lining

Here it is also very important to mark the first row; check the correct position several times. This does not take much time, but it allows you to insure yourself against troubles. If you have not made control marks on the frame slats, then you should check the positions of the rows with a level.

If you have little practical experience, mark the location of the lining on the slats every three to four rows. Marks can be made on each slate with a pencil or you can mark them all at once using a special rope with blue, they are sold in every hardware store. Such markings will allow you to constantly monitor the position of the rows and, if small deviations occur, correct them in a timely manner.

The nails are nailed to the frame slats, respectively, the distance between them is equal to the distance between the slats.

Problems may arise if the ceiling and floor are not parallel to each other; the last row of lining must be cut at an angle. What to do? Think while marking the frame. If the deviation in height is less than 1.5 cm, then it is better to trim only the bottom row of the lining, the place will be covered with a plinth, the “slanting” lining below is less noticeable - various sun loungers and other “bath equipment” in many places completely hide the plinth. If the height difference is large, divide it into two parts; you will need to cut both the bottom and top rows. What exactly to cut (tenon or groove) does not matter.

Prices for lining

Video - How to nail the lining. Installation subtleties

The lining is fixed with nails or clamps, the nails need to be driven flush into the tenon at a slope, the length of the nails is ≈1.5 cm. We do not recommend using self-tapping screws - they are time-consuming and expensive, and have zero additional effect. The lining is never subject to pull-out forces. The clamp is fixed in the grooves and nailed to the slats. The gaps at the bottom and top are covered with plinths.

There is no need to compact the lining with a mallet, especially eurolining. Its tenons are much longer, which prevents them from slipping out of the grooves during expansion/shrinkage.

Very important - leave gaps for shrinkage. If the bathhouse has not yet fully matured after laying the frame, then you will have to install a floating sheathing. It is not difficult to make; there are special elements for floating fixation of the frame.

Never rush, it is better to first check the position of the lining several times and only then fix it securely. Only over time, when experience has already appeared, can the pace of work be increased.

Video - Floating lathing for installing lining

On the Internet you can find advice from “experts” on how to insulate baths mineral wool or foil - we consider this a waste of money and time. This option should be used only in cases where the bathhouse is built of sand-lime brick.

If there are a lot of tasks, the conditions should be discussed. Foam blocks and wood retain heat normally. And for wooden baths foil does more harm than good - it is broken natural ventilation with all the ensuing consequences. This type of “insulation” is carried out by unscrupulous swindlers in order to rip off more money from the customer.

Video - Internal lining of a bathhouse with clapboard

Finishing work

These include installing skirting boards on the floor and fillets on the ceiling. Do not forget to leave a gap of 1÷2 cm between the last row of lining and the ceiling to compensate for expansion/shrinkage. The gap is closed with a fillet ( ceiling plinth), the fillet is fixed to the ceiling - this is very important. Otherwise, the gaps left will not “work” and there is a high risk of warping.

The lining can be coated with special resistant to difficult conditions use varnishes, stains or leave surfaces untreated. It is not advisable to coat with varnishes; you must remember that absolutely all polymer resins, and most of the stable varnishes are made from them, emit harmful chemical compounds. Harmfulness paint coatings is determined individually in each country, and evaporation limit values ​​are regulated. What is strictly prohibited for use in some countries is called “environmentally friendly” products in others. Decide for yourself whether you need beautiful bathhouse, or you want to have a safe steam room. What can I recommend - carefully inspect all surfaces and, if necessary, sand problem areas on the lining. Whether to varnish or not is an amateur’s job.

Prices for wooden skirting boards

wooden baseboard

Conclusion

If you follow all the recommendations: don’t rush, don’t be lazy, double-check the markings and work done several times, then upholstering a bathhouse with clapboard will not seem very complicated matter. Of course, provided there is a desire and hands grow from where they are needed. It’s better to do the work with an assistant - it’s faster, easier, and safer. And lastly, follow basic safety rules; no beautiful, clapboard-lined bathhouse will compensate for the loss of health.

The quality of clapboard finishing largely depends on the method of fastening. Fasteners must securely hold the material, and at the same time be completely invisible. To fix the panels to the sheathing, self-tapping screws, clamps, and screws are used, but most practical option- these are nails. But the nails for the lining are not ordinary, but finishing nails, differing in the shape of the head and some characteristics.

This is the name for nails with a small cylindrical head, the diameter of which is only slightly larger than the diameter of the rod. They are specifically designed for fixing decorative finishing, since they provide hidden fastening. These nails are thin and, as a result, easily penetrate the wood without causing cracking. It’s easy to drown a small hat in the thickness of the material using a hammer.

In the photo - the finishing nail next to the finisher

Characteristics

The rods of such hardware are smooth, with notches in the upper part, and range from 20 to 90 mm in length. The cap has an oval shape, and its height corresponds to the diameter of the rod. The diameter of the cap itself varies from 1.6 to 3.4 mm. The fasteners are made from low-carbon steel, and protective coating anti-corrosion compounds are used.

Unlike simple construction nails, finishing nails are not designed to high loads, since finishing materials are usually light in weight. They can only be used in structures that are not subject to shrinkage and mechanical bending or tearing loads. It is also undesirable to use them for temporary coverings: not a single tool makes it possible to pick up and pull out a nail due to the small head recessed into the wood. For the same reason, they cannot be reused.

Scope of application

Finishing nails are used not only for fastening lining; their scope of application is quite wide:

• furniture manufacturing;
• installation small decor in interiors;
• window decoration and doorways platbands;
• fastening thin slats, glazing beads and skirting boards.

Some craftsmen use them when laying parquet and laminate flooring when they need to fix the planks, but since floor coverings are subject to constant mechanical stress, ordinary nails are more suitable here.

Types of nails

The main criterion when choosing nails is the type of protective coating. Not only the appearance, but also the durability, as well as the cost of fasteners, depends on this.

Prices for nails for air guns

Nailing tool

To recess the nail head without damaging the finishing material, you need to choose the right working tool. Most craftsmen use a hammer - a cone-shaped metal rod.

Its working end has a small diameter, so when driving it touches only the nail head and does not catch the wood. There are two types of finishers:

• with a grooved recess at the end - this rod is designed for nails with a recess on the head;
• with a recess under the head of the hardware - the rod securely grips the nail and does not slip off when struck.

The top edge of the tool is wide and flat, specially designed for hammering. The hammer is very simple to use: the end of the rod is placed on the protruding head perpendicular to the surface, the tool is held in this position with one hand, and the wide part is hit from above with a hammer with the other. As a rule, 1-2 blows are enough to sink the cap a couple of millimeters into the wood.

Advice. If there is no punch, it can be replaced with a large construction nail or center punch. To do this, the lower end of the product is ground down a little or cut with a grinder so that it does not slide off the hardware head. A large bolt will also work: it needs to be sharpened to lathe so that the diameter of the rod matches the diameter of the nail head or is slightly smaller.

If the amount of work is large, it is very convenient to use another tool - a pneumatic nail gun. It is also called nailer and nail gun.

There are special finishing nailers of various calibers designed for a certain size of nails.

This tool is quite expensive, but it has great advantages:

• reduces installation time;
• weighs little and fits comfortably in the hand;
• the nail goes in up to the head in one blow;
• fasteners do not bend, and there are practically no misfires;
• no need to exert much physical effort.

Disadvantages include the need for a compressor and connection to an energy source.

Air nailer - application

Technology of fastening lining with nails

The basic installation process and the location of the lining panels do not depend on the choice of fasteners, but there are certain differences in the fastening method itself. In order for the coating to have an aesthetic appearance and remain durable throughout its entire service life, you should not only select nails wisely, but also know how to hammer them in correctly. Let's look at the cladding technology in detail.

Nail selection

Nails should be selected taking into account the operating conditions of the finish. For living rooms and kitchens, closed balcony Galvanized nails are suitable; for a bathroom or bathhouse it is better to take chrome or copper plated ones. If the lining is expensive, made of exotic wood, then the nails should be appropriate - coated with copper or brass. As for the length of the nail, it should be 2.5-3 times the thickness of the material being attached. Most often used for fastening lining finishing nails 50-60 mm long.

But when assembling the sheathing, it is necessary to use construction nails, which will provide the structure with the necessary strength. Again, when choosing, take into account the effect of moisture - for rooms with high humidity, take only galvanized fasteners. If the walls are not wooden, but brick or concrete, the sheathing is fastened to the base using dowels.

Installation of sheathing

You cannot attach the lining directly to the wall: over time, shrinkage of the base can cause deformation of the coating, and the accumulation of moisture between the wall and the cladding will lead to premature destruction of the material. For this reason, the sheathing must be installed, and the most the best option for its manufacture are slats with a cross section of at least 40x20 mm or timber 50x50 mm.

The lumber must be smooth, dry and without visible defects. Wood must be treated before installation antiseptic impregnation and dry.

First you need to remove all rotten cladding boards from the facade, dismantle drainage system, remove shutters, trims and other elements that will interfere with the installation of sheathing and lining. Installation starts from the bottom.

Step 1. Before starting work, remove the drainage system, shutters and loose boards

It is recommended to tighten the fishing line to make it easier to level the sheathing plane. Next, attach intermediate beams to the wall in increments of 49 cm. The beams are fixed every 40-50 cm, and 1.5-2 cm retreat from the ends. All guides must be located strictly in one horizontal plane, otherwise the lining will not lie flat.

Advice. The lining panels should be positioned perpendicular to the sheathing. That is, for horizontal cladding, the frame guides are installed vertically, and vice versa.

Prices for different types of bars

Fastening horizontal lining

Sheathing panels can be mounted either from the bottom up or from the top down. The first method is more convenient, but very often the top panel has to be cut, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. If you do not plan to close the joint at the top decorative plinth, installation is recommended to be done from top to bottom.

Step 1. Take the first board, apply it to the bottom of the sheathing so that the ridge is directed upwards and the groove, respectively, downwards. A small gap should be left between the lining and the floor covering to compensate for thermal expansion.

Step 2. The nail is placed at an angle at the base of the ridge at the level of the sheathing and driven in with a hammer. Next, they take a hammer and, with precise, neat blows, sink the cap into the tree. The panel is fixed to other guides in the same way.

Prices for popular models of nail guns

nail gun

Step 3. Take the second board, place it with its groove against the ridge of the first board and lightly press on top so that it falls into place. They check the horizontal level; if necessary, they also tap it with a hammer through a special board - a pad, so as not to damage the lining lock. Next, they are fixed with nails to the frame guides. In the same way, secure the sheathing to the very top.

If installation is carried out from top to bottom, the nail is driven at an angle into the groove of the first board, making sure to recess the head with a hammer. After this, the second board is inserted into the groove with a comb and tapped so that it fits tightly into place.

Prices for lining

Vertical fastening of the lining

When positioned vertically, the first board is applied to the sheathing with a ridge in the corner. The nail is inserted into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees so that it falls in the middle of the sheathing beam. They don't score too much with strong blows To prevent the tree from splitting, recess the cap using a hammer. The board must be secured along its entire length.

It is very important to recess the nail heads well, otherwise they will prevent the panels from fitting tightly to each other. During the installation process, each panel is controlled by a level and, if necessary, knocked down with a hammer. If you do not notice the distortion in time, it will be difficult to correct the defect later - you will have to tear off the fixed panels and mount them again. The sheathing should be dense, without gaps or cracks between the boards.

Fastening with nails and clamps

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

This method allows you to secure the lining without damaging the wood or risking cracking. Installation is quite simple.

Step 1. The board is applied to the sheathing and leveled.

Step 2. A clamp is inserted into the groove of the sheathing beam.

Step 3. Using finishing nails through special holes, the clamp is attached to the beam.

Step 4. The remaining clamps are put on and secured, fixing the board along its entire length. Maintain an interval between fastenings of 50-60 cm.

Step 5. They take next board, insert its comb into the groove of the previous one and secure it in the same way.

Step 6. Every 3-4 rows are checked with a level to prevent the coating from skewing. If necessary, such cladding can be easily dismantled and installed in another place.

Video - Nails for lining

Lining is a popular material for interior decoration. During work, the question may arise about how to nail it correctly. There are several installation methods. In addition, it can be made from different materials: MDF, plastic, wood.

Regardless of what it is made of, the essence of the fastening does not change. The quality depends mainly on the surface; in other words, the surface must be smooth.

Choosing a fastening method

If the clapboard finishing is done for some time, and in the future it will be dismantled, it is better to fasten it using special clamps. In a bathroom or sauna, it is better to nail the lining with secret nails, which are driven into the groove of each board.

There is an installation method with which you can not only attach it well, but also save time and effort - fix the planks with a construction stapler. It can also be fastened with screws; this fastening method is generally suitable for domestically produced material.

How to nail the lining correctly

The lining is attached to flat surface. Almost every wall or ceiling has flaws, so before starting fastening it is worth doing the sheathing.

Installation of sheathing

Attached to the surface wooden beam size 50 x 50 (minimum 20 x 40), the distance between the beams is 40 cm. If insulation is used, then the distance between the beams is the width of the insulation.

TO brick wall the timber is nailed to the dowel, and to the wooden one - with nails or self-tapping screws. The first block is attached in the very corner and set by level or using a plumb line. The second beam is in the corner opposite to the first.

We stretch the cords along the upper and lower edges of the bars. We retreat 40 - 50 cm from the first block and mount the next one, aligning it along the stretched cords. All other bars on all walls are attached in the same way. It is advisable to check each beam with a level, since the quality of the fastening depends on the quality of the sheathing.

How to attach plastic lining

First you need to prepare the tool:

• hacksaw or jigsaw;
• screwdriver and electric drill;
• plumb and level;
• mounting knife;
• stapler;
• hammer.

We will also take care of additional material:

• screws,
• dowels,
• staples for stapler,
• plinth.

The profile or baseboard is stapled to the sheathing. The clapboard is inserted into the plinth and secured to the timber in the groove using a stapler. The tenon part of the next part is inserted into the groove of the fixed one. It is fixed in the same way as the first one, with a stapler in the groove.

All subsequent panels are attached using the same technology. The last panel is cut to size (if necessary) and inserted into. Upon completion of the installation of plastic lining, the ceiling is washed warm water using a sponge.

How to attach wooden lining

Installation begins from top to bottom, tenons up, so that dust, dirt, and moisture do not accumulate in the grooves. Nails are hammered into the groove, into it back wall. For fastening, so-called finishing nails are used, the length of which is 50 mm and with a small head.

They are driven in at an angle of 45° as carefully as possible so as not to damage the bar. The first plank is nailed under the ceiling. The second one is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the first board and fixed. Then the next one and all the others using the same technology, to the very bottom.

The last plank is cut to size and secured. The resulting gap near flooring are closing wooden baseboard. Corner joints are closed decorative corner. When the lining is positioned vertically, installation begins from front door, with a spike towards the opening.

Nails are driven in with a simple hammer, with short blows with a small swing. After graduation installation work, the surface is treated with stain and varnish, this will significantly extend its service life.

Advantages

Lining has a number of advantages over other types finishing materials. It can be used not only for interior decoration, but also external. It helps to level walls without much effort.

Wooden - environmentally friendly and natural, will fill the room with warmth, comfort and the aroma of wood. If properly processed, it will serve for more than 10 years.

Plastic – moisture resistant, does not fade, has a wide palette color shades, has high level noise and heat insulation.

Flaws

For wood panels required additional protection from moisture. Over time it may lose its original appearance. Plastic can release substances harmful to health.

Species

The lining can be wooden or plastic. Wooden is used for interior or exterior finishing:

1. residential houses and cottages;
2. gazebos;
3. saunas or baths.

For the manufacture of lining, wood of the following species can be used:

1. ash;
2. aspen;
3. alder;
4. cedar.

Wooden is divided into several classes:

• “Extra” or “0-class” class - has an ideal appearance and a minimum amount of roughness on the surface.
• Class “A” - for every 1.5 m of the product, one knot, one resin pocket and several cracks are allowed.
• Class “B” - up to four knots per every 1.5 m are allowed, as well as several cracks and resin pockets.
• Class “C” - there may be resin bags, blue spots, stripes and mechanical damage.

Plastic is mainly used for finishing:

1. interior spaces;
2. building facades;
3. roof overhangs;
4. ceilings.

May be divided into:

• laminated panels, patterned like wood, metal, granite or marble;
• panels with solid color and shade;
• panels with or without seams.

In addition, plastic may differ in profile shape. Depending on the form, this could be:

• panel type, it is simple and imitates a wooden beam;
• eurolining is distinguished by a deep tongue-and-groove connection, with an increased tenon size, which allows for good ventilation and moisture evaporation, used in finishing facades;
• calm lining has an almost ideal smooth surface;
• lining - American main difference - recesses with inside, is installed with an overlap, thanks to this there are no seams between the panels, it is made only from wood and is used for exterior decoration;
• - made in the form of convex bars, imitating a wooden building.

Watch the video: Wall decoration with clapboard