Installing a screen under the bath great way give the room completeness and hide plumbing communications. And to save money and fit the screen perfectly into the interior of the bathroom, do it yourself!
How to make a screen under the bath with your own hands?
Even in the most stylish and tidy bathroom, a bathtub installed without a screen does not look very elegant. It is worth considering how to decorate the space under it, while maintaining functionality and without blocking access to plumbing communications.
The most versatile way out can be the construction of a screen under the bath. And if you want to get a unique interior detail, discard the finished screen and make it yourself.
The choice of material for the construction of the screen
The most popular and easily manufactured screens are plastic. They are durable, not afraid of moisture. You can make a screen of multi-colored plastic to match the interior or paste over it with a special film.
When creating a screen for a bath, it is important to carefully calculate and think through everything. Therefore, the first thing to do is to choose.
The second stage will be familiarization with the cost of laying tiles in the bathroom. This is necessary in order to decide whether it is worth starting work on your own. .
The second most popular is a screen made of MDF panels.
In this case, it is necessary to take into account that MDF is afraid of dampness, and therefore it is necessary to treat the panel with a special compound before installation.
Plasterboard screens are usually installed by those who do not intend to use the space under the bathroom as storage.
Such a screen must be provided with a door in order to gain access to plumbing equipment if necessary.
load-bearing frame
Almost every screen requires the construction of a frame on which the panels will be attached. It can be made from wooden or aluminum profiles with various parameters -25 × 25, 30 × 30, 40 × 40.
Before starting work, be sure to mark the walls and floor to accurately mark the lines along which the screen will be installed. To strengthen the frame, it is necessary to install transverse profiles.
They will give rigidity to the whole structure. After that, the profiles are joined together and attached to the walls and floor of the bathroom.
Brick screen laying
One of the very stylish and original variants- brick screen followed by tiling or decorative plaster. It's pretty easy to make your own.
Before starting work, you will also need to mark the future wall of the screen so that its edge is flush with the edge of the bath.
On the opposite wall of the bathroom, you also need to make vertical markings, which will be a guide when laying bricks. It is recommended to lay in 1/2 or 1/4 bricks on a cement-sand mortar.
You can make a screen with a niche for the legs. Be sure to provide a door for access to the drain and plumbing communications!
You can buy it at the store or make it yourself from a plastic panel or other available materials.
Popular screen types
From plastic lining
This is the cheapest and easiest screen to manufacture and install. Plastic does not require additional finishing, so you can immediately use the bathroom, and if necessary, this design is easily disassembled, opening access to the interior.
Before starting installation, you need to stock up on everything you need: in addition to the panels, you will also need start profile, reinforced around the perimeter of the screen.
So that the plastic does not bend over time and does not lose its shape, you need to additionally strengthen the frame with a profile in the middle of the structure.
The lower part of the profile is glued to the floor with a sealant.
The lining strips are cut with a construction knife and inserted into the starting profile. Where the door is planned, you need to cut a hole in advance.
Video: Decorative screen
Plasterboard sheathing
Installation requires special plasterboard for rooms with high humidity to prevent it from soaking and rotting.
The drywall option is good in that it can be designed as a niche with shelves, so that in a small room of a typical bathroom it will successfully replace a wardrobe or chest of drawers.
It consists of drywall sheets mounted on a frame made of metal profile or wooden bars. You can install the frame on one side of the bath or on both sides at once - it all depends on how the bath itself is located.
By the way, the amount of materials needed depends on this.
For the manufacture of the screen you will need: drywall, putty, drywall profile, sealants and impregnations, paint.
Work begins with the layout of the future frame. After that, a frame is assembled from a profile, depending on the shape of the screen, and installed under the bathroom using a drill and a screwdriver.
First, a smaller part of the structure is attached, then a large one, and they are fastened together.
A technological hole is required. After fixing the sheets, the surface is treated with a sealant, puttied and coated with a primer.
After all layers have dried, you can start finishing work.
From ceramic tiles
Finishing ceramic tiles possible for plasterboard, MDF or masonry screens. A putty is applied to a carefully primed surface, after drying it is carefully rubbed with sandpaper and primed again.
The tile is laid in the same way as usual, using special glue and crosses for joints and grout. The advantages of such a screen are its decorative effect and durability.
You can choose something completely unique. color combination and decorate the bathroom in any style. You can even make sliding doors, but it will be somewhat more complicated and costly.
MDF sheathing
MDF boards are afraid of moisture, so it is necessary to impregnate them with special sealants even before installation. After that, they are coated with a primer and fixed to the frame in the same way as drywall sheets.
To additionally protect the screen from exposure to dampness, it is necessary to make special ventilation holes on the side opposite the technological door.
Usually, a small slit is made for this purpose, 5-10 cm long and 2-3 cm wide. So that it does not catch the eye and does not disturb the general appearance, it can be closed with a decorative plastic grill. MDF screen trim can be made of tiles or plastic.
For acrylic bath
Acrylic tubs are more fragile than cast iron tubs and require extra care when installing the screen. The structure itself is usually made of PVC panels in the usual way, just like for a cast iron bath.
Before starting installation, you need to mark the side of the bathtub, marking the places where the screen will be fixed.
Thereafter upper part they are combined with the side of the bath and the same marks are applied to it, making sure that they coincide with the marks on the side.
The screen is attached to the bath using mounting studs and self-tapping screws.
To make the entry points of the screws invisible, it is recommended to close them with special plugs to match the bathtub. It is also possible to build a brick screen, but in this case, you must first build it, and then install a bath on it.
Before proceeding with the construction of the screen design for the bath, it is important to purchase a bath and, of course, a toilet. Great option for a combined bathroom -.
If you have a small bathroom at your disposal, do not be upset, we will help you choose the design of a small bathroom in Khrushchev, which you can learn more about.
PVC panel screen
For its manufacture, you will need standard plastic panels, guide profiles - aluminum or plastic, square pipe section 10 × 10 mm and self-tapping screws.
The first stage of work will be the manufacture of a frame of two parallel tubes connected across the same pipe. Vertical racks are placed depending on the size of the screen.
After painting, guides are installed on the pipes, one of them is attached to the lower frame, the other to the upper one. Panels must be carefully cut into pieces required size and insert into the grooves of the guides.
Screen shape
The screen under the bath, due to the characteristics of the room and the shape of the bath itself, most often rectangular shape. The only exceptions are screens for corner bath, a curved design is provided here.
Depending on the material of manufacture, it may have some features and improvements.
For example, brick or drywall may have special niches for legs so that they do not rest against a blank wall.
The shape of such a niche can be straight or inclined. According to the method of opening, the screens can be sliding or hinged.
The second option is preferable, as it does not require additional space for the door.
Video: Manufacturing technology
sliding screen
A sliding screen is best made from PVC panels or plastic lining. These are the easiest materials to work with, and the screen from them is very durable.
Installation requires a special aluminum profile, guides for doors are made from it.
First of all, a frame is mounted, on which guides are installed, equal in length to the bath itself or to the distance between the walls of the room.
Doors are fixed in the frame, and they need to be located on the sides of the screen itself in the first profile groove. The central part is most often made fixed and is located in the middle groove.
The screen is attached to the bath already assembled using spacer bolts. Furniture handles are installed on the movable doors.
For corner bath
When creating a screen for a corner bath, you need to take into account that it is not easy to bend traditional materials, such as drywall, on your own, and even more so to place it in a rigid frame.
August 25, 2016The easiest way out is to make a screen made of plastic, it bends well, is not affected by moisture and is relatively inexpensive. In addition, you can pick up plastic sheets of various shades.
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.
Today I will show you how to make protective screen under the bath with your own hands. The manufacture of such a design is not particularly difficult even for an inexperienced craftsman, so I see no reason to involve professionals in the work and pay them money for this.
Choosing the right design
Let's start by deciding what to make a screen for masking the space under the bathroom. Personally, in my practice I came across various designs.
The most common were the following:
- MDF screen for a bathtub - a construction made of glued wood-fiber sheets, which, however, do not tolerate operation very well in humid air;
- plastic screen for the bathroom - and we are talking about both ordinary polymer lamellas, and various sheet materials(plexiglass, polycarbonate and so on);
- construction from mineral blocks - I did laying under the bathroom from foam blocks, bricks and even cinder blocks (I do not recommend this option, especially for beginners, because of the high labor intensity of the work);
- steel screen - very unusual design, which I installed only because the owner found a sheet of steel that was suitable in size (if you decide to make such a screen, then I advise you to choose aluminum, which is both lighter and looks better, and is protected from corrosion);
- a drywall screen is a universal design both in terms of shape (gypsum board can be bent in any plane) and in terms of design (gypsum board can be tiled with any material - tiles, wallpaper, plaster, paint).
As you probably guessed, I prefer to make a tiled screen under the bathroom - the pros and cons of this design are presented in the table below.
| Advantages | Flaws |
| Strength. Plasterboard construction, installed on a solid frame and protected by tiles, is able to withstand significant external mechanical impact without changing the appearance. | Low moisture resistance. Ordinary drywall is not designed for use in humid air. Therefore, only green-colored material should be used for work. |
| Light weight. The screen under the bathroom will not exert a significant load on the structural elements of the building. Although, in fairness it should be noted that plastic panels weigh even less. | Difficult access to communications. After the installation of the screen is completed, access to the water and sewer pipes under the bathroom will not be possible. Therefore, you should take care of the installation in advance the right amount inspection doors of a suitable size. |
| Decor. Drywall is tiled, which is most organically combined with tiles glued to the walls or floor. Moreover, the design can be varied decorative elements, friezes and so on. | High price. Here we are talking more about ceramic tiles, which will be pasted over drywall. As for the design itself (frame plus plasterboard), it will cost you very inexpensively. |
| Ease of care. The ceramic surface, due to its dense structure, does not absorb dirt. Possible contamination can be easily cleaned with a sponge and household detergents. | The complexity of self-assembly. As in the previous case, greatest difficulty cause laying tiles. And the screen itself can be constructed without any problems, especially if you follow the instructions below. |
| Long service life. If properly designed, the screen will last as long as the rest of the decorative trim bathroom. That is, it will have to be dismantled only during the next repair. |
I think I convinced you that the best choice- This is a plasterboard screen, tiled. I will make a design of complex shape with a ledge at the bottom, which makes it possible to comfortably place the legs when washing the bath and washing.
Necessary tools and materials
I will briefly list the main materials that will be needed in the work:
- Plasterboard sheets. Depending on the size of the bath and its location, you will need one or two standard sheet(most often one is more than enough). Let me remind you once again that you only need to buy moisture-resistant drywall (green), which can be used in conditions of high humidity.
- Profiles for drywall. You will need guides (UD) and load-bearing (CD) elements. Additional accessories ("pawns" and "crabs") are not needed. We will do everything with the help of ordinary small self-tapping screws (bugs).
- Sanitary sealant. With its help, strange as it may sound, I will mount the guide profiles on the surface of the floor and walls (in my case they are already tiled).
- Primer for drywall. She primed the surface of the GKL before gluing tiles on them.
- Tile. Its purpose is clear decoration screen. It is, of course, better to choose it to match the color of the walls or floor. But it all depends on your preferences, so I won’t stop for a long time.
- Glue for tiles. Special dry composition based on cement (or ready-made dispersion mixture) for gluing tiles.
This is the main one, but in the course of the presentation I will mention other tools with materials.
Mounting technology
Well, now I’ll tell you how to make a tiled screen from GKL yourself. The whole process is divided by me into several successive stages, shown in the diagram below.
I will describe each of them in as much detail as possible.
Stage 1 - Preparation
It is always necessary to start work with the preparation of the premises. In my case, I acted as follows:
- Installed the tub in the right place. The matter, it would seem, is simple, but there are a few small points that I would like to draw your attention to:
- Before installation, I advise you to insulate the steel bath with polyurethane foam. It will not only increase the cooling time of the water, but also reduce the noise emitted by the bath bowl during filling with water. I described the process of warming the bath in one of the articles on this blog.
- Installation and leveling of the bathtub is preferably carried out using special threaded legs, which are either included in the kit or purchased separately. This way you can achieve maximum stability of the product.
- Under the bottom of the bath, you can put a few bricks, fixing them with polyurethane foam. This will add strength to the structure.
- After installing the plumbing fixture, it is necessary to connect the drain, overflow and faucets. And then check the operability of the system and the absence of leaks at the joints.
- He laid tiles on the walls and floor of the bathroom. Instructions for laying tiles on walls (including drywall) are described in a separate material. But here I would also like to make a few points:
- The tile at the junction of the bath to the wall should hang over the plumbing fixture. Its edge should be cut as close as possible to the surface of the bath and processed with a "turtle" to form a kind of chamfer.
- On the floor and walls under the bathroom, the tiles should be positioned so that they go 10-15 cm under the plumbing fixture. That is, it is desirable that the screen is installed not just on the building envelope, but on the tile. So your design will have the most harmonious look.
That's all I wanted to say about preparation. Now you can move on to the next stage of work.
Stage 2 - Markup
In the manufacture of the design in question, the dimensions of the screen for the bath are very important. Moreover, in my case it will have complex shape with a recess at the bottom for a comfortable position of the legs.
So I decided to dedicate an entire section to the issue of markup. Well, let's get started:
- I cut out the guide profile for the floor. Usually this is one solid piece, but in my case there are some nuances:
- The profile will consist of three parts, which are separated by bath legs. This is done in order to leave as much legroom as possible. It turns out that the recess will be about 7 cm deep, which is quite enough.
- The floor profile (like other galvanized parts) is cut with ordinary metal scissors according to pre-made marks.
- I carry out markings on the walls and floor for further correct placement profiles. This is done as follows:
- From the upper edge of the bath, using a water level, strictly vertical lines are drawn along the walls that connect the end of the plumbing fixture and the floor.
- After that, the marks near the walls are connected to each other by a line. You can do this with a rule. To check, you can apply a level in the middle of the bath. When the tool is placed vertically, it must rest exactly on the projection line drawn on the floor.
- I'm indenting drywall with tiles. I put the tile and drywall together, and then apply it to the line drawn on the floor. I'm making a cut. Then I set aside another 5 mm from this notch, which will go to the glue and self-tapping screws (GKL does not fit as tightly as possible to the galvanized profiles. Then I set aside another 5 mm (the screen surface will be slightly recessed when viewed from the edge of the bath). This will be the final label They need to be done both on the wall and on the floor.
- According to the resulting end marks, using a level or a rule, a final line is drawn, which will be a guideline for aligning the main plane of the screen. But do not forget that you still need to mark the recess.
- I mark the line for gluing the floor profile. To do this, I measure the distance from the outer line to the bathtub leg (no further, otherwise the plasterboard will rest against the leg and it will not be possible to screw it) and make several intermediate marks, along which I draw a straight line, which in my case is about 7 cm away from the first one.
- Then on two walls I measure 10 cm from the floor and make two marks. This will be the height of the recess for the legs. Here, additional lines do not need to be drawn yet, we will set the final guidelines during the installation of the frame.
By the way, it's time to start this stage of work.
Stage 3 - Frame construction
The frame, as you already understood, will be made of a galvanized drywall profile: UD guides (27 by 28 mm in size) and CD carriers (27 by 60 mm in size). You can also take wooden bars, but, as you understand, wood does not tolerate operation in humid air worse, so I personally do not support this option.
Therefore, below I will tell you how to make a galvanized frame:
- I install floor guide profiles. As I said, this will not use " quick installation”, but ordinary sanitary silicone. It firmly glues the parts and will not allow the screen to move in one direction or another. The scheme is this:
- The surface of the floor (we have tiles there) and galvanization is cleaned of dust, and then degreased with an alcohol-containing composition. After that, the silicone is charged into mounting gun and with its help is applied to the prepared part.
- After applying the silicone, the part is applied to the floor along the inner line, which acts as the border of the footwell in the screen. It is necessary to firmly press the part and wait a few seconds until the adhesive composition grabs. The parts that adjoin the walls (extreme) should be 1 mm away from the wall tiles so that vertical elements can be inserted there, as shown in the photo below.
- I install vertical guide profiles on the walls. They will also be attached to silicone, but if you wish, you can replace it with dowel-nails or “quick installation” screws. The scheme is as follows:
- Two profiles 10 cm long (the height of the leg recess) are cut out of galvanized steel, after which they are smeared with glue and applied to the wall. At the junction of the floor and wall parts, they must be inserted into each other.
- Then, for strength, these two parts are fastened with a “bug” self-tapping screw. In order not to bend the part when screwing in the self-tapping screw, it must be supported with pliers.
- The upper vertical part is glued. Its length is equal to the height of the cut of the bath above the floor level minus 10 cm. Then the upper and lower elements are connected by a horizontal guide. All of this is tied together. The result should be a design, which is shown in the photo below.
- After gluing, I recommend checking the correct installation of the guides with a tape measure, measuring the distance from the main line. It must be the same.
- I set a horizontal profile for the upper part of the frame. For it, a carrier element (CD) will be used. The sequence of actions will be as follows:
- It is necessary to measure the distance between the two side elements (installed on the walls), and then cut off a part from the profile equal to this length minus 0.5 cm (for ease of installation).
- After that, I fixed the CD-profile in the upper part of the bathtub, screwing it with screws to two U-shaped parts glued to the walls (we put them in point 2). There is no need to fasten the profile to the bath itself).
- For strength, I blew out the gaps between the profile and the polyurethane bath mounting foam, which will serve as an excellent sealant and will not allow the profile to bend during operation. This is how the design turned out.
- I install a guide profile that will play a role inner corner leg recesses. It uses a UD part. Here's what you need to do:
- The corner guide in the case I described rests on the nuts of the bath legs. Therefore, I cut out several small sections in the galvanized part to facilitate the installation of the frame.
- The guide is inserted into wall structure, after which it is fixed with self-tapping screws. Thanks to the recesses for the bolts, the part is located strictly horizontally.
- Then the inner corner and floor guide profiles must be connected with load-bearing parts (CD). Pieces of the desired length (9.5 cm) are cut, after which they are screwed to the U-shaped parts with self-tapping screws. The distance between them is 30-40 cm.
- At the last stage, the profile adjacent to the bath must be filled with polyurethane foam to avoid possible vibrations. The result should be the design shown in the illustration below.
If you come in to play it safe and fix the profiles on the walls and floor with dowels, then you need to drill holes with tile drills (with sharp heads), otherwise there is a danger of destroying the decorative finish.
- I do outer corner leg recesses. I will use two U-shaped guides, nested in each other in such a way that a kind of profiled pipe is obtained. square section. So:
- I put two UD parts into each other, after which I fix them in several places with small self-tapping screws. The length of the profiles, as you understand, should be equal to the distance between opposite wall guides. It is enough to grab these parts in about 4 places just so that they do not fall apart during the assembly process.
- I put the corner guide into the wall profiles. It is necessary to position the part so that the screws with which it is fastened are located below and above. The profile will fit snugly into place, after which you need to check the correctness of its installation using building level and then secure in place with self-tapping screws. I will show the assembly unit near one of the walls in the photo.
- I hem the ceiling part of the footwell with drywall. This must be done before the end of the installation of the frame, because due to the small size of the recess, this will not work later for objective reasons. The sewing work is done as follows:
- Using a tape measure, the distance from the outer to the inner profile of the recess is measured, after which a piece of the appropriate width is cut out of the drywall sheet. In length, it should be equal to the distance from wall to wall. Most likely, you will have to use two pieces of drywall. I got it like this.
- Several parts 3-4 cm long are cut from the U-shaped profile. And one part from the CD-profile, which will be needed to splice two sheets of drywall. After that, you need to set these parts flush with the edge of the GKL at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. To make it more convenient, you can put a whole UD profile under the adjacent edge of the drywall. It should turn out like this:
- After that, all the details must be attached to the drywall sheet with ordinary self-tapping screws. 2-4 pieces for each. Make sure that the cut of the part exactly matches the cut of the HA L. The result should be the design shown below.
- By the number of staples attached to the drywall sheet, another piece is cut out with ears that will rest on the profiles from above. The shape of this part is shown in the photo.
- I fix the plasterboard construction. To do this, it must be inserted into place and pressed from below with scraps more tightly to the frame. After that, insert the parts with ears into the proper places (see above) and fix it all with self-tapping screws. As a result, the horizontal part of the binder will be firmly fixed. The essence of the operation can be understood from the illustration.
- I install additional load-bearing elements of the frame. They will need a C-shaped drywall profile. The work is done as follows:
- I cut out a part from the supporting profile, the length of which corresponds to the distance between the walls minus 0.5 cm. After that, I insert it into the wall U-shaped guides approximately at the middle of the height between the upper rail and the lower corner profile. I fix the part with self-tapping screws - “bugs”.
- From the same C-shaped profiles I cut out parts with ears that will play the role of vertical stiffeners - two each in the upper and lower parts of the bathroom frame. I install them in the right places and fix them with self-tapping screws. It should look like this design.
Stage 4 - Plasterboard sheathing
In principle, the main task is to correctly design the frame. But the fastening of drywall should not be treated carelessly. Therefore, I will try to describe the skin scheme in as much detail as possible:
- I cut sheets of drywall for sewing the main plane of the screen. The width of the parts from the plasterboard should be such that it closely adjoins the upper cut of the bathtub, but does not protrude beyond the border of the drywall sheet at the corner of the footwell. You can cut drywall with a regular clerical knife with interchangeable blades.
- I fix sheets of drywall on the frame. This should be done using black self-tapping screws that are protected from corrosion. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- The first sheet of drywall is applied to the frame. It must be positioned so that it is flush with the bottom cut of the footwell. After that, I recommend grabbing the part in several places with self-tapping screws, so that it is more convenient to carry out its further fastening.
- After the sheet is tacked and the correctness of its installation is checked, it is possible to compress the GKL using self-tapping screws. They must be screwed into all bearing and guiding profiles. The distance between adjacent fasteners is 30 cm. Do not forget to screw the screws into the vertical jumpers.
- After finishing work on the first sheet, the same should be done with the second. Remember that at the junction of two plasterboards there should be a gap of 2 mm to compensate for the possible expansion of the material during operation. Later, this joint can be puttied or covered over tile adhesive during the tiling process.
- I cover the front of the screen with ceramic tiles. This must be done at this stage, before it is sewn up with drywall and a recess for the legs is framed. In my case, a large and heavy floor tile is used:
- Glue is applied to the tile (you need to select a composition that is specifically designed to hold heavy tiles), after which it is distributed over it with a notched trowel.
- The decorative part is pressed against the drywall, and then leveled with a level. To prevent the tile from moving down before the glue dries, you can use spacers from pieces of wood or drywall.
- The second tile is glued in the same way. In my case, I had to trim it a little, then processing the edge with a “turtle”, removing a small chamfer from it.
- After the glue had set, I rubbed the seam between the two tiles with a fugue that matched the color. It turned out something like this.
- I sheathe a recess for the legs with drywall. This should be done after the glue that holds the tile to the main part of the screen has hardened. The scheme of work is as follows:
- I measure the height from the floor to the top of the footwell. It should be about 8 cm if the previous measurements were taken correctly.
- After that, I cut off the details of the desired height from the GKL (8 cm minus the thickness of the tile and glue). Their length should be such that the cuts fall exactly on the transverse elements of the frame strength. In the central part there will be an inspection hatch, so doing in this part should be 1-2 cm apart from adjacent ones.
Stage 5 - Tiling
I have already glued the main part of the tile (see point 3 in the previous section). It remains only to veneer the recess for the legs. This is done as follows:
- I veneer the ceiling part of the footwell:
- Several blanks are cut from the tile. Their width should be such that they fit snugly between the back of the recess frame and the overhanging part of the tile that is glued to the front of the screen.
- Tile adhesive is applied to the workpiece and spread over it with a spatula. You need to use a special ceiling composition. Its consistency should be thicker than usual in order to firmly hold the part in place after installation.
- After that, the tile is inserted into the recess and secured with spacers made of pieces.
- I sew up the vertical wall of the footwell with drywall. This should be done after the lining of the ceiling is completed. You need to make sure that the glue is completely dry and holds the decorative material in place. Further work is built like this:
- Along the edges of the recess, drywall is screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws. We do not sew up the central part yet, since there will be an revision hole in this place.
- I glue tiles to these details. You need to act in the manner described above: cut out the details the right sizes(make sure that the corners of the tile are equal to 90 degrees), process the edge, smear the tile with glue and press it to the drywall.
- There must be a seam between the floor and the tile in the recess so that it can be sealed with silicone. You can make it with the help of plastic wedges, which are sold at a hardware store.
- I'm making a door for the revision hole. To make the screen look nice, I will make it out of tiles and not put in a plastic door. The scheme is as follows:
- A piece of suitable length is cut out of the tile, which completely covers the revision hole.
- Four holes are drilled along the edges with a crown, into which self-tapping screws will be screwed.
- After that, the tile is glued onto a piece of drywall (we cut it out in advance).
- The entire structure is screwed into the frame cross members with suitable self-tapping screws.
It remains only to seal all the seams with silicone.
Summary
If you strictly follow the suggested sequence of actions, you will have a durable and beautiful homemade bath screen. Another simple instruction is described in the video in this article.
You can leave your opinion about the information contained in this material in the comments.
August 25, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!
The screen under the bath is not so necessary, but very significant element decoration of this space. It performs two tasks: it decorates plumbing equipment and allows you to get extra space. The latter is very important for small apartments.
The bath screen is a panel made of plastic, plexiglass, MDF or other durable materials. At the bottom of the product there are screw legs, the length of which can be changed by screwing in and out. The panel is held by a frame consisting of 4 aluminum strips located along the perimeter of the product: two horizontal and two vertical.
This frame is the main reinforcing element, thanks to which the screen is securely fixed in a vertical position. The installation is simple: the product assembled from the components is tilted at a slight angle and the upper part is brought under the bathtub. Then set in the desired position and fixed by twisting the legs.
So mount any models of screens, or sliding. The first differ from the second in the design of the vertical panel. For sliding ones, it can consist of 2 or more parts that move relative to each other using a system of grooves and rollers.
sliding bath screens
Design of decorative panels under the bath
Screen design can be very different. A wide range of colors allows you to choose the most suitable product for specific premises. Panels with 3D photo printing look original and stylish, which creates the effect of the depth of space. For rooms decorated in a laconic style, monochrome screens, glossy or matte, are suitable.
Designers did not disregard the legs of the products. Now they not only serve as a support, but also serve as a decorating element. For more expensive models, the legs can be stylized antique. Original screens with supports made in the form of animal paws, geometric shapes, flowers.
If handrails for people with limited mobility are installed on plumbing equipment, more durable panel models that can withstand significant weight loads are chosen. The market offers a wide range of accessories and accessories for the bathroom. Therefore, it will not be difficult to choose those that emphasize the style features of a particular room.
Types and features of sliding screens
Although sliding screen is more complex design than solid, it is still very easy to assemble and install. Dismantling the product is also easy. The simplest models are equipped with a plastic or aluminum frame, the upper and lower bars of which have a profile in the form of the letter Sh. Two or three plywood or plastic panels are installed in these grooves.
More expensive models equipped with a system of rollers, which are a transitional link between the frame and the ribs of the "doors". Such screens are more convenient to use, since it is much easier to move and extend panels in them.
In the middle price range, there are models made of inexpensive plastic and thin anodized aluminum tubes. Each of these types of materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. Plastic panels are fragile, but have an undeniable advantage: moisture resistance. Anodized aluminum frames are more durable but prone to corrosion. Rust develops in places of damage (scratches). It is very difficult to avoid their appearance, since the bathroom is a regularly used room.
Bath screen designs are designed taking into account the dimensions of this plumbing equipment. Standard length frames - 150-180 cm. Height - 56-58 cm. If necessary, such frames can be easily shortened by sawing off part of the upper and lower slats with a metal file. But to increase the length of the frame will not work.
Sliding plastic and acrylic screens can be different: in the form of folding curtains, sliding panels and opening doors. The latter are used for models from a more massive material: MDF.
Installation of a sliding screen with an aluminum frame
Plastic screen under the bath - fragile and not enough robust design. Therefore, the installation process involves different ways its amplification. First of all, you need to find right place to set the screen. It should be slightly wound (drowned) towards the bath. In this case, drops of water flowing down from its side will not fall into the space beyond decorative panel. It (panel) must be installed strictly vertically.
To strengthen the structure, several methods are used that can be combined with each other.
- Mount the frame from the metal profile, side racks which is attached to the walls of the bathroom.
- Fix the left and right sides of the screen frame with a moisture-resistant sealant (the best choice is a sealant for the manufacture and repair of aquariums).
- Metal corners are attached to the walls of the bathroom, on which the screen frame will rest. For fastening from the outside of the panel, self-tapping screws with decorative caps are used.
For execution installation work you will need the tools that every owner has in his arsenal.
- Screwdriver or drill.
- Screwdrivers.
- Roulette.
- Level.
- Pliers.
- Metal construction square.
Installation steps
Step 1. Find the middle of the panel. To do this, either measure the length of the screen with a tape measure, or find the desired parameter in the annotation for the product.
Step 2 Similarly, determine the midpoint on the top side of the bathroom.
Step 3 Make appropriate marks with a simple pencil. These actions are necessary in order to avoid displacement of the panel relative to the side, since the system is quite mobile.
Step 4 They put the screen next to the bath and tilt it so that you can get its upper part over the side. To do this, it is enough to tilt the product at an angle of 30 ° - 40 °.
Step 5 They find the optimal location of the screen and make appropriate marks on the walls with a marker.
Step 6 If metal corners are chosen as a reinforcing element, they are fixed along the marked lines. To do this, you will need a drill, an appropriate drill, dowel-nails.
If it is decided to build a frame, choose a metal profile of a larger section: rack or ceiling. For example, PP50x50 mm or PP60x27 mm. The frame of the guides (PN28x27) will not be so reliable. For screens up to 150 cm long, it is enough to mount a reinforcing frame around the perimeter. For longer panels, 1-2 intermediate posts must be installed.
The first step in building a frame is taking measurements. In accordance with the data obtained, the strips are cut from the metal profile. They are interconnected using self-tapping screws, corners or special fasteners - crabs (needed if there are intermediate racks). There are no difficult moments in the installation of such a frame. Therefore, everyone can build a frame for a screen under the bath.
Step 7 Install the assembled screen close to the supporting frame or to the metal corners.
Step 8 Unscrew the metal pins in the legs of the screen so that it is motionless.
Step 9 Attach the screen frame to the frame or metal corners with decorative fasteners.
Screen fitting, fixing it
Step 10 Fill the gaps between the walls, the screen frame and the edge of the tub with silicone sealant.
Design features and installation of screens for acrylic bathtubs
Most models of acrylic bathtubs are shaped, so straight screens are not suitable for them. Manufacturers of this plumbing equipment are developing special designs that allow you to hide the installation elements of acrylic bathtubs. Usually such screens are included in the package of models. But they can also be bought separately from plumbing equipment.
Screens for acrylic baths can be monolithic and sliding. The installation process is the same. Feature such curly screens - L-shaped protrusion in the upper part of the product. This notch is needed so that the panel fits snugly against the side of the bathroom. But despite the fastening system, such screens are relatively mobile, as they are made of plastic with an acrylic coating. In order to avoid pushing towards the space under the bathroom, different techniques are used.
Installation of acrylic screens is not difficult, but installation instructions are still needed. All types of these panels are fixed using a support system, which can be spring or plastic. Fasteners are located on the back of the screen.
Plastic decorative overlays are fixed at the stage of mounting the frame for an acrylic bathroom.
The springs lead into special ledges of the lower frame, on which the bath is installed. This support consists of several metal profiles rectangular section and has its own legs. As a rule, standard screens are equipped with three springs, one of which is located in the middle of the product, and the other two are on the sides.
Manufacturing technology of a sliding screen for a rectangular bath
Step 1. Cooking workplace. If it is planned to insulate and soundproof the bottom of the bath, then it is advisable to carry out these works even before installing the screen. For example, before placing a bathtub on legs, stick an insulating material (available from an automotive store) on the bottom of the tank to reduce the noise level when pouring water.
Advice! When installing the bath, use not only the legs that come with the kit, but also additional supports, for example, made of bricks. This guarantees better stability and will extend the service life of the product, and also guarantee the tightness of the seam between the side and the wall.
Step 2 We prepare everything you need. For the manufacture of the screen, you can use plastic panels of any shades suitable for the design of the room.
plastic slats
Step 3 We work with panels. It is necessary to draw on a sheet of paper the configuration of the future screen and put down the dimensions. The screen may have additional recesses for laying pipes or other communications. It is necessary to carefully cut the panels with a jigsaw according to the plan, and then clean the burrs from the ends with sandpaper.
Using a miter box, it is necessary to cut a U-shaped profile at an angle of 45 degrees, after which silicone sealant glue the edging on the panel.
To avoid drilling additional holes, use self-adhesive grips to sliding doors. Degrease the panel surfaces, remove the protective film from the handles and press them against the plastic surface.
For a mortise handle, you will have to drill a hole with a rosette nozzle. The diameter of the hole must match the diameter of the handle. To install the handle, you need to put a little sealant on the edge and simply insert it into the finished hole.
Mortise handle
Step 4 We fix the upper guide with liquid nails. It is important to degrease the bottom of the bathtub rim well so that a good fixation is ensured.
Step 5 We fix the lower guide from the F-shaped profile. It is necessary to drill several holes in the profile shelf to fix it to the floor.
To make markings for drilling on the floor, we apply a profile and mark the drilling points through the profile with a marker. First we use a drill for tiles, then for concrete.
We drill holes in the floor and blow dust out of them. We insert plastic dowels into the holes. We press the profile to the floor, tighten the screws. It is possible to apply a thin layer of sealant between the profile and the tile for a more aesthetic appearance of the installed structure.
Step 6 We insert the doors into the grooves of the lower and upper profiles. This completes the work.
The screen is an optional part of the bath, it can be installed without a fence. But open communications do not look aesthetically pleasing at all, do they?
Do you want to hide the communications of your bath behind a special screen, but you can’t find a ready-made barrier due to the non-standard design of your plumbing?
We will help solve this problem - the article provides interesting ideas on how you can make a screen for a bath with your own hands, what materials are suitable for these purposes, and which version of the frame will be optimal for a particular bath.
For clarity, we have selected colorful photos with finishing options and provided detailed installation instructions for the most popular materials.
Moreover, making a nice screen is not difficult if you know some of the nuances. And the videos phased installation will simplify the work on the screen even for a beginner.
Modern acrylic bathtubs are often sold with prefabricated plastic screens made to measure. they are simple enough.
As for steel and cast iron structures, then, as a rule, screens are not provided for them and you will either have to do them yourself or leave them open.
Open pipes look rather unattractive and spoil the interior of the entire bathroom.
Whether or not to close the bath is a matter of taste and preferences of the owners.. But surely everyone wants to have a beautiful and neat bathroom. The screen gives the bath an attractive and finished appearance and covers the sewer pipes sticking out from under it.
However, this is not the only reason why it is worth installing a fence. The space under the bathroom can be used to advantage for storing various household appliances by making.
In the barrier, you can make niches, install hinged or sliding doors.
The bathtub can be installed without a barrier, if provided. design idea. In this case, it is necessary to purchase a bathtub with a special coating and install it on beautiful legs.
With an open design, while bathing, water constantly gets under the bath, and dirt accumulates. Humid environment promotes the formation of fungus, mold and various bacteria.
The floor under the bathroom also gradually wears out and becomes unattractive.
To avoid these troubles, it is better to close the structure beautiful screen.
The screen performs not only an aesthetic, but also a protective function, preventing moisture from penetrating under the bath. The barrier doors will become convenient place storage of household items
Requirements for barriers under the bath
There are quite a few options on how to make a beautiful and functional bath screen. When choosing the material for its manufacture and installation method, it is necessary to take into account the requirements for the barrier.
A humid environment is constantly present in the bathroom, so only moisture-resistant materials that can withstand temperature extremes and humidity should be used to make the screen.
Otherwise, fungus and mold may form on the fence, or it may collapse under the influence of adverse factors.
When installing the screen, it is imperative to make technological holes in it. You can install hinged doors on one or both sides of the bath
The fence must be completely sealed. to prevent water and dirt from getting into inner space. However, it is impossible to make a completely blank screen.
It is necessary to provide access to communications located under the bathroom. For this, small windows are left or doors are made.
Barrier design options
Before you install the screen under the bath, you need to decide on its design. Surely, many would like to see their bath not only beautiful, but also comfortable and functional.
Fencing with wide sides
One of options- make a fence with wide sides. In this case, the bath looks like it is recessed inside the frame. This design is very convenient: the sides act as shelves on which you can put various bath accessories.
A bath with sides looks more harmonious and fits perfectly into the surrounding interior. This design is suitable for large bathrooms, where there is enough space for its installation.
Many are concerned about the question: will the screen interfere with a convenient approach to the bath. This point is especially relevant for older people.
AT this case even at the stage of installing the frame or making brickwork, they provide a special recess under the feet. It is usually made in a rectangular or square shape.
Inclined leg recess. A recess of this form can be made if the frame is made of a metal profile. It is almost impossible to make a bevel in brickwork
Doors and technological openings for access to the sewer can also be made in different ways.
How to make a sliding screen?
A very convenient option - they also often make swing doors, or install folding or removable panels.
The sliding screen is convenient and functional. Under it, niches are installed for storing various household items and detergents. Usually this design is made of plastic.
The sliding structure can also be made of plastic. To do this, you need a plastic sheet. The guides along which the doors will move must be made of a special aluminum profile.
First done metal carcass, as described above, then guides are fixed at the top and bottom along the entire length of the profile.
The required length and width of the doors are measured, their dimensions are transferred to the sheet and cut out. The doors are fixed on the sides of the screen in the first groove of the profile. The central fixed part is installed in the middle groove.
On plastic doors, you can stick a single-color or color film in accordance with common interior baths
If you want the doors to move along the entire length of the bathtub, then two plastic pieces are cut out. Their size is calculated in such a way that closed they overlapped each other.
The first door is installed in one groove, and the second in another. In conclusion, furniture handles are placed on the doors.
Types of frames for screens
Any finishing material must be attached to something. You can assemble from wooden bars, a metal profile, or lay out a brick base. brickwork it is advisable to do if in the future it is planned to lay ceramic tiles or mosaics.
In other cases, you can not make such a heavy structure, but limit yourself to a wooden or metal frame.
Option 1. Frame on a brick base
Brickwork is considered the most reliable and durable foundation. which will withstand any finishing material. If it is supposed to be tiled, then such a base is the best option.
A brick wall is built from one wall to another. Masonry is done in a quarter or half a brick. In this case, each subsequent row is done with an offset.
Between the upper side of the bathtub and the masonry, it is necessary to leave a gap of two to three centimeters, and then, after the solution has dried, blow out the empty space with mounting foam.
Brickwork is done in half a brick, do not forget to make a technological hole, and for a convenient approach to the bath - a notch for the legs
It is also necessary to provide an opening for access to sewer pipes. If you decide to make a small hole, you can leave it open or hang a door on it. If necessary, make a recess for the legs.
Option #2. Wooden crate under the bath
The wooden frame also has sufficient strength, but the tree, constantly being in a humid environment, may begin to rot. Therefore, before you put a wooden screen under the bath, it must be treated with an antiseptic that prevents decay processes.
You can use moisture-resistant wood from cedar, alder or larch for the frame, but the cost of these tree species is quite high. For the crate, a beam with a section of 40 x 40 mm is used.
To make the frame even, you need to markup:
- from the corners of the bath adjacent to the wall, vertical lines are drawn to the base using a plumb line;
- retreating 2.5 cm, a second vertical is made parallel to the first line. From free corner the bathtub is also projected with a vertical straight line using a plumb line, and at the point of its contact with the base, a square with sides of 2.5 cm is drawn;
- horizontal lines are drawn from the inner corner of the square to the walls of the bath. This will be the perimeter along which it is necessary to install a wooden block.
The beam is attached around the entire perimeter of the bath to the floor with self-tapping screws. Then corner vertical racks are installed and fixed with self-tapping screws to the wall.
A horizontal bar is laid on them and fastened with metal corners. From the corner posts at a distance of 50-60 cm, intermediate vertical boards are installed.
The wooden frame should be located under the upper side of the bath. For strength, the joints between the crate and the sides are processed with liquid nails.
Option #3. Frame made of metal profiles
For the manufacture of the frame, it is best to use the PN 27 x28 profile, which is great for attaching plasterboard sheets, plastic and MDF panels.
If it is supposed to be faced with ceramic tiles, then it is better to use metal profile pipes that can support any weight. But in the manufacture of such a frame, there are difficulties - the pipes will have to be welded with a welding machine.
The marking of the base is carried out according to the same principle as for wooden frame. The lower guide is fixed to the floor with dowels, side posts are installed on it, which are also attached to the walls with the help of dowels.
For greater strength of the frame, it is desirable to make an average horizontal bar from the profile approximately at the middle of the height
The upper horizontal profile is laid on the side supports and fixed on them. To strengthen the upper rail, you can fold the two profiles together and fix them with dowels to the side posts in this form.
Then additional vertical racks are mounted in increments of 35-40 cm. After the frame is completely mounted, the space between them is treated with mounting foam by the side of the bath.
If it is necessary to make a recess under the legs with a slope, then additional vertical racks with a bevel are installed in the middle of the frame
Option #4. Frame for curved bathtub
The most important thing in the manufacture of a bath barrier is not standard form- is to try to repeat exactly its bends.
A galvanized metal profile is also suitable for the frame.
As a sheathing, it is better to use the highest density extruded polystyrene foam, which is a very strong and rigid material.
- Before starting work, measure the length of the bathtub and cut a profile of the same size.
- Every three centimeters it needs to be cut a little.
- Attach a profile to the edge of the bathtub and secure it with tape on one side.
- Smoothly bending it along the cuts, we bend it around the entire length of the bath, attaching it with tape to the sides at small intervals.
- To keep the resulting shape, also glue adhesive tape along the entire length of the profile.
- Detach the profile from the sides of the bathtub and attach it to the floor with dowels, sliding it inward by a thickness finishing material. If it is supposed to be tiled, then in addition to its thickness, it is necessary to take into account a layer of glue and putty, only about 4-6 mm.
- Cut two sections of the profile along the height of the bath and attach them to the walls.
- Cut the polystyrene foam into panels 15-20 cm wide, determine the exact size yourself, based on the curvature of the tub.
- Insert each panel with the bottom edge into the profile, and with the top edge under the edge of the bathtub and immediately blow inner part foam.
- Thus, install all the slats, leaving a window under the hatch. It is installed after the foam hardens well.
- Putty the entire surface with waterproof putty, and then after it dries, go with sandpaper.
After graduation preparatory work on the finished frame, you can lay tiles or veneer the screen with another finishing material.
When installing the cut panels, it is necessary to immediately blow the space between them and the bathroom with foam so that they are fixed in the desired position
Screen materials
Perhaps the most popular are plastic screens. Although quite often they use MDF panels, drywall and wood. Consider the features of each of these materials.
Cladding with plastic panels
Plastic is a hygienic material, it is not afraid of dampness and moisture, it has a long service life. It is inexpensive and installs quickly and easily.
The screen under the bath, trimmed with multi-colored plastic panels, looks very original. Drawings are selected in accordance with the interior of the bathroom
Today there are many interesting options plastic finish. The screen can be pasted over with a special film to match the color of the bathroom or with a variety of images of a marine theme.
You can finish the fence with plain or multi-colored plastic panels.
Plastic panels are inexpensive and available material allowing you to immediately fine finish bath screen.
On the bathroom floor, you can fix the starting strip of plastic, where you can then install the panels. However, such a fastening cannot be called reliable; it is better to use metal profiles.
The work process consists of the following steps:
- Under the upper sides of the bath, at a distance of 15 cm from each other, small wooden blocks are attached with liquid nails. They should be of such thickness as to fit under the hem of the bath;
- With the help of a stapler, the starting strip is attached to the bars;
- Strips of the desired length are cut with a drywall knife;
- The first panel is installed from the edge of the wall and the starting strip is put on it;
- The horizontal starting strip is smeared with liquid nails from the inside and a panel is inserted inside it;
- On top of the plastic is attached with a stapler or glue;
- From below, if it is planned to install a plinth, the panels are fixed with self-tapping screws, if the lower plinth is not provided, they can also be put on glue;
- The remaining panels are attached similarly to the first.
On the last panel from the side where it adjoins the wall, the starting strip is put on, and then it is inserted into the groove of the penultimate panel.
Features of using MDF panels
Another common option for finishing the bath is MDF panels. However, when choosing this material, it is worth considering that it is not moisture resistant and is afraid of dampness.
Therefore, before finishing it must be treated with a water-repellent compound. Installation of such panels is also not particularly difficult, they are mounted as simply as plastic ones.
The smooth surface of drywall is an excellent basis for subsequent finishing with various decorative materials.
Finishing the screen with drywall
Many people prefer to finish the bathtub with moisture-resistant drywall.
And it is no coincidence that after installing the drywall frame, it forms completely Smooth surface, which can be lined with any material: tiles, moisture resistant wallpaper, decorative plaster, paint, stick a film.
Only moisture-resistant green drywall is suitable for finishing the bath screen of a standard shape, but, despite this, it must be additionally treated on both sides with a primer before installation.
Can be dyed inside sheet with oil paint. Drywall is cut in accordance with the height of the frame minus two centimeters.
When fixing sheets, one centimeter must be retreated from the top and bottom edges of the screen. This is done in order to prevent moisture from entering and to prevent swelling of the canvas.
Drywall is fixed on the profile with black self-tapping screws with fine threads. They are screwed in at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other along the entire length of the lower and upper profile.
If the frame provides a niche for the legs, drywall is cut to its size and attached with screws to the guides. Two triangles are cut out for side mounts
A hole is cut at the location of the technological hatch, on which, after assembling the entire frame, a door made of the same material is hung.
If in the future it is supposed to lay tiles on drywall, then the size of the door must correspond to the tile. Loops are used to secure it. furniture fittings.
You can buy ready-made with a mount that you just need to insert into the hole. After the completion of the installation work, the screen surface is primed, and then the upper and lower joints along the entire length are treated with silicone.
Features of using wooden panels
And here is a variant from wooden panels, decorated with transverse slats of the “blinds” type.
The main details of the wooden screen:
Image gallery
Doors and shields for the screen are so simple design that they can be done independently, spending a minimum of money and effort
We choose handles to your taste, but they must have two qualities: be durable and not interfere with using the bathroom
It is better to buy legs ready for assembly in a furniture store. They are necessary so that when using the bathroom it is convenient to put your feet
The main quality of the selected loops is strength. But the size is also important - the hinges must correspond to the end of the doors in width
Wooden ready-made or homemade shields
Metal or plastic decorative handles
Metal legs to support the screen
Metal hinges for fastening doors
When all the parts are prepared or purchased, we proceed to the assembly and installation of the screen.
You will need the simplest tools: a screwdriver, pliers, a screwdriver, a level, as well as a set of wood screws.
Image gallery
The support leg will not be attached to the panel, but to the bar, so first we connect the long side of the workpiece with a wooden bar
We screw the finished metal leg into the lower end part of the bar, then tighten it along the length
We hang the door, which should open freely, on a static panel using standard hinges.
After assembly, the first section - a fixed panel with a door - is installed under the bathroom, on the right side. We repeat the same with the second section.
To keep the doors closed and not swing open at every touch, we will install magnets in the upper part. But first we make the markup
In order for the magnets to hold firmly, we drill recesses with a drill and insert magnets into them, after lubricating with glue
It turned out a protective screen, consisting of 1 deaf part and 3 doors. We check how freely they close / open
So that the tree does not quickly swell from moisture, we cover it with antiseptic impregnation, and then with paint or varnish
Step 1 - mounting the panel to the bar
Step 2 - installing the metal leg
Step 3 - hanging the doors on the hinges
Step 4 - Installing the assembled block in place
Step 5 - measuring the doors for the installation of magnets
Step 6 - installing magnets on the doors
Step 7 - checking the functionality of the doors
Regardless of which option you choose to finish the bath, you must first make a frame of wood or a metal profile, on which the finishing material is then attached.
The base for the bath can also be laid out of brick.
Laying ceramic tiles
Tiles can be laid both on a brick base and on drywall sheets.
You need to use a special tile adhesive. Start laying the tiles on the side that is left open so that the cut tiles are hidden by the plumbing fixtures.
Tile is the most hygienic and durable bath screen cover available. At correct installation it will last for decades
A great way to hide all plumbing communications and give the room completeness is to install a screen under the bath. And in order for the screen to fit perfectly into the interior of the bathroom and you save money at the same time, you can make it yourself.
Self-made screen under the bath
A bathtub installed without a screen does not look very elegant even in the most tidy and stylish bathroom. Therefore, you should think carefully about how you can close the space under it in such a way that access to plumbing communications is not closed and all functionality is preserved.
A universal solution to this problem can be a special screen installed under the bath. And in order to get a beautiful, unique and unusual interior detail, you need to abandon the finished purchased screen and make a screen for the bath with your own hands.
What material to choose?
The easiest to manufacture and most popular screens are plastic, which are not afraid of moisture and are quite durable. The screen can be pasted over with a special film or made of multi-colored plastic that matches the tone of the bathroom interior.
Those who do not intend to use the space under the bathroom as storage can install drywall screens for themselves, which should be equipped with a door so that you have access to plumbing equipment if necessary.
load-bearing frame
For each screen, you need to build a special frame, on which you then need to attach the panels themselves. The frame can be made of aluminum or wooden profile, having parameters 40x40, 30x30, 25x25.
Before starting work, it is imperative to make markings on the floor and walls in order to indicate as accurately as possible all the lines along which the screen will be installed under the bath with your own hands. You can also install transverse profiles that will help strengthen the screen and give additional rigidity to the entire structure.
Then all profiles must be joined together and attached to the floor and walls of the bathroom.
Brick screen construction
A rather original and at the same time stylish solution can be a brick screen, which will then be finished with decorative plaster or tile. Such a screen can be easily made by yourself.
Starting work, you need to mark the future screen so that the edge of the bath is flush with its wall.
You should also make vertical markings on the opposite wall. When laying bricks, this marking will be a guide. Masonry is recommended to be done on a cement-sand mortar in ¼ or ½ bricks.
If desired, you can make a special niche for the legs in the screen and be sure to build a small door so that there is access to plumbing communications and a drain. Such a door can be made with your own hands from plastic panels or purchased in a store ready-made.
Popular screens
Screen made of plastic lining
This screen is the cheapest, besides it is very easy to manufacture and install. No need for plastic additional finishing so that you can use the bathroom immediately after installation. If necessary, this design can be easily disassembled in order to open access to the space under the bathroom.
Before you start installation, you should stock up on all the necessary materials: in addition to the panels themselves, you will also need a starting profile, which will need to be fixed around the entire perimeter of the screen.
In order for the plastic not to lose its shape and bend over time, it is necessary to strengthen the frame additional profile installed in the middle of the structure.
Installation should begin with gluing the lower part of the profile to the floor with a sealant. Then it is necessary construction knife cut the lining strips and insert them into the starting profile. It is only necessary to pre-cut a hole in the place where the door will be located.
Plasterboard sheathing
For the manufacture of such a screen, you should use a special drywall, which is designed for rooms with a high level of humidity.
One of the main advantages of a drywall screen is that it can be built in the form of a niche with small shelves, so that it can successfully replace a chest of drawers or a wardrobe in a small bathroom.
Such a screen is made of drywall sheets, which are fixed on a frame assembled from wooden bars or a metal profile. Depending on how the bath itself will be located, the frame can be installed either on one side of the bath, or on both sides at once. Which option you end up choosing depends on the amount of materials you need to build the screen.
In order to make such a screen for a bath with your own hands, you will need drywall itself, paint, impregnations and sealants, a drywall profile and putty.
Work should begin with the layout of the frame. Then you need to assemble the frame from the profile in accordance with the future shape of the screen and install it with a screwdriver and a drill under the bathtub.
First of all, you need to fix the smaller part of the structure, then the larger one, and then fasten them together. After the drywall sheets are fixed to the frame, their surface must be treated with a sealant, puttied and coated with a primer. When all layers are dry, finishing work can begin.
Remember that it is imperative to provide a technological hole.
Ceramic tile screen
Ceramic tiles can be used to decorate screens that are made of brick, MDF or drywall. First you need to prime the surface, then apply putty on it and wait until it is completely dry. Then you need to carefully wipe the surface with sandpaper and prime it again.
Tiles must be laid in exactly the same way as usual, using crosses for joints, special glue and grout. The advantages of such a screen are its durability and decorative effect.
If desired, some interesting color combination can be selected, or you can even make sliding doors, which will be a little more expensive and more difficult.
MDF sheathing
Before installation it is necessary to impregnate MDF boards special impregnations, as they are afraid of moisture. Then they need to be coated with a primer and fixed to the frame in the same way as plasterboard sheets.
For additional protection of such a screen from moisture, it is necessary to make an air vent, which should be located away from the technological door. Most often, a small slit is made for this purpose, 2-3 cm wide and 5-10 cm long. In order for it not to disturb the general appearance of the bathroom and not to catch the eye, it must be closed with a decorative plastic grille.
You can trim the screen from MDF with plastic or tiles.
Screen designed for acrylic bath
Such a bath is more fragile than cast iron, so you need to be very careful when installing the screen. Its design is no different from the design intended for a cast-iron bath.
Before starting installation, it is necessary to mark the side of the bathtub and mark the places where the screen will be fixed.
Then the upper part should be aligned with the side of the bath and marks should also be applied to it, which should match the marks on the side.
The screen can be attached to the bath using self-tapping screws and mounting studs.
To make the entry points of the self-tapping screws invisible, it is recommended to close them with special plugs painted to match the bathtub. Also, you can build a screen out of bricks, but first you need to make the screen itself, and only then install the bath on top of it.
PVC panel screen
To make such a screen, you will need plastic or aluminum guide profiles, standard plastic panels, self-tapping screws and a square pipe, the cross section of which should be 10x10 mm.
First of all, from a pair of parallel tubes, which must be connected across the same tube, it is necessary to make a frame. You need to place vertical racks depending on the size of the screen.
After painting the pipes, you need to install guides on them - attach one to the upper frame and the other to the bottom. After that, cut the panels and insert them into the grooves of the guides.
Screen shape
Typically, screens that are installed under the bath, taking into account the shape of the bath itself and the characteristics of the room, are made rectangular. An exception can only be screens designed for corner baths, which have a curved design.
Depending on what material the bath screen is made of, you can improve it or add some features to it.
For example, drywall or brick screens may have small footwells to keep your feet from hitting the wall. Such a niche can be both inclined and straight. More screens may differ in the way of opening - hinged or sliding. The second option is more preferable, since in this case you will not need additional space for the doors.
How to make a sliding screen yourself?
It is best to make a sliding screen from plastic lining or PVC panels, since these materials are the easiest to work with, and the screen that is made from them is very durable.
You will need a special aluminum profile for installation, from which all guides for the doors will be made.
First you need to mount the frame, on which you should install the guides. The length of the guides should be equal to the distance between the walls or the length of the bathroom.
The doors should be fixed to the frame, placing them in the first profile groove on the sides of the screen. The central part is most often made fixed, and placed in the middle groove.
With the help of spacer bolts, the finished screen must be attached to the bath, and furniture handles must be installed on the movable doors.
Screens for corner baths
If you want to create a screen for a corner bath with your own hands, then you need to consider that materials such as drywall are quite difficult to bend on your own and then place on a rigid frame. Therefore, the best solution would be to make a screen made of plastic, which is relatively inexpensive, is not afraid of moisture and bends well. In addition, plastic panels of various shades are currently available.
First of all, you need to attach the plastic guides to the floor in the bathroom, repeating the curve of the tub itself. Using liquid nails, you need to attach wooden bars to the top, which will serve to fix the top rail.
Another screen option can be a brick screen, because masonry can be made in any shape, and then decorated with mosaics or tiles. But such a screen must be built first of all, and then a bathroom should be installed on it.
