In order to rationally use every centimeter of the bathroom, designers suggest using a variety of cabinets, niches and shelves. But what about the space under the bathroom? Today, the article will focus on bath screens, their types, characteristics and cost.
What is a bath screen made of?
The function of such a screen is purely decorative, namely, to hide all unsightly communications located under the bathroom. In addition, you can use it rationally - as a place to store household chemicals, for this it is only necessary to provide special drawers and shelves.
There are many screen materials. Choose according to your taste, as well as cost:
Glass, mirrors and wood - almost any material can act as a screen for the bathroom, today we will consider the most practical of them.
What are screens?
The main types of screens include the following:
- Ordinary. Made in the form of a plastic panel;
- Universal. The same plastic panels but in an aluminum frame
- Frameless screens. Most economical option, installation is made under the bath
- End. Can be done with or without a frame.
In addition, the design can provide sliding or opening doors, if you want to give it additional features storage of household items.
Laying a brick screen - do it yourself step by step
The process of laying a brick screen with your own hands consists of the following steps:
- Cement;
- Sand
- Trowel;
- Brick;
- Plumb;
- Level.
At the second stage, we perform preparatory work- do markup. In order for the tiled screen to be flush with the side of the bathtub, we draw a line on the floor using a plumb line - from the side to the floor.
We retreat from the resulting line a distance equal to the width of the tile itself and the mortar on which it will be glued - this will be the edge of our brickwork. On vertical walls - we beat off the line at the same distance - and the marking is ready.
- Actually, you can proceed to the masonry itself. It is produced in ½ brick, using the classic cement-sand mortar: 1:3. As with conventional masonry, each subsequent row is placed with an offset of half a brick.
- Profile (CD, UD; starting U-shaped plastic profile)
- Self-tapping screws and dowels
- The plastic panels.
First you need to prepare tools and materials. There is nothing complicated here, everything is the same as with ordinary masonry:
An important point: do not forget to leave a technical window - in the future, access to communications will be carried out through it.
Separately, it is worth stopping at the niche for the legs. It is not necessary to do so, but small nuance will greatly facilitate the use of the bathroom, especially when you bathe a child or animal. There are two options here - or just leave an opening the size of one or two rows of masonry, blocking it with steel strips to support the upper bricks.
Or make an inclined wall - this requires certain skills, but it looks spectacular.
Armed with a grinder, of course using diamond wheel, cut out the brick that we need for the side walls. Next, we lay the bricks using the dressing method, and if necessary, with the help of the same grinder, we make the top row flush with the rest of the walls.
An important point: do not place the bath directly on the brick, leave a gap of 1-2 cm - and seal it with mounting sealant.
The cost of materials will be about 700 rubles.
After some time, we tile the screen with tiles, not forgetting to hang a door for our technical window - you can buy it ready-made, or make it yourself from a piece of aluminum.
Drywall sheathing - step by step with your own hands
When starting to make a drywall screen, you need to decide what material to make the frame from. There are two options here: wood or metal.
As with laying bricks, in this embodiment, a niche can be provided.
When installing drywall in the form of a solid screen, as in the first case, we mark up, and mount the guide profile along the lines obtained. Not close, so as not to transfer the weight of the bath to the structure, but with an indent of 1-2 cm from the side, we attach a horizontal profile. The resulting gap between the bath rim and the profile is filled with sealant or mounting foam.
In order for the structure to be more resistant to deformation, more vertical profiles can be mounted.
It's time to fix the drywall. To do this, take a solid sheet, and process its edges with a moisture-resistant sealant.
Installation is done with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the edge of the drywall is closely adjacent to the edge of the tub.
A variant of such a screen with an equipped niche differs only in a change in the frame in the lower part. If in the first case it was one piece of the profile. Now there will be three of them: two along the marking line that we applied from the side of the bath, and one for the niche. On both sides of the niche we make vertical guides at an angle - the frame is ready.
When the frame is sheathed with drywall, we veneer it with tiles, using glue or liquid nails.
Sheathing MDF, OSB - do it yourself step by step
Installing MDF or OSB panels is practically no different from installing drywall. The only thing we pay attention to: all panels must be pre-treated with an antibacterial primer to avoid the appearance of fungus in the bathroom.
And once again we remind you that you need to choose only moisture-resistant panels.
The cost of the panels depends on the manufacturer and is 300 rubles. per sq. m.
Screen made of plastic lining - do-it-yourself step by step
If you do not want to think about whether your screen will become a victim of moisture or fungus, we recommend that you stop at the option of plastic lining. Firstly, the installation of this material is not difficult, and secondly, it is absolutely resistant to various deformations, and besides, it can be easily disassembled if you need access to the bathtub.
So, as with the installation of any other panels, we need:
We mount with the help of sealant, along the perimeter of the screen - the starting profile, and we attach the panels to it, while not forgetting about the technical window.
Another significant advantage of this material is that it does not need additional lining, there are a lot of color options, you can choose the one that fits into the interior and immediately use the bathroom. In addition, its cost is very attractive - from 150 rubles. per sq. m.
Conclusions - which is better, cheaper, more reliable
There are a lot of options and materials for decorating the space under the bathroom. Building a screen for a bath with your own hands is not difficult. The cost of materials is not high, but at work you can save a decent amount. After all, the installation of such a screen starts from 1500 rubles. depending on the selected option.
Our advice is to choose materials that are easiest to work with: plastic or drywall.
In addition, if you do not want to spend time and money on cladding, the best choice is plastic, because thanks to the many colors, you can choose an option that will not only not yield to tiles, but also emphasize the design of your bathroom.
The screen under the bath is not so necessary, but very significant element decoration of this space. It performs two tasks: it decorates plumbing equipment and allows you to get extra space. The latter is very important for small apartments.
The bath screen is a panel made of plastic, plexiglass, MDF or other durable materials. At the bottom of the product there are screw legs, the length of which can be changed by screwing in and out. The panel is held by a frame consisting of 4 aluminum strips located along the perimeter of the product: two horizontal and two vertical.
This frame is the main reinforcing element, thanks to which the screen is securely fixed in a vertical position. The installation is simple: the product assembled from the components is tilted at a slight angle and the upper part is brought under the bathtub. Then set in the desired position and fixed by twisting the legs.
So mount any models of screens, or sliding. The first differ from the second in the design of the vertical panel. For sliding ones, it can consist of 2 or more parts that move relative to each other using a system of grooves and rollers.
sliding bath screens
Design of decorative panels under the bath
Screen design can be very different. A wide range of colors allows you to choose the most suitable product for specific premises. Panels with 3D photo printing look original and stylish, which creates the effect of the depth of space. For rooms designed in concise style, monochrome screens, glossy or matte will do.
Designers did not disregard the legs of the products. Now they not only serve as a support, but also serve as a decorating element. For more expensive models, the legs can be stylized antique. Original screens with supports made in the form of animal paws, geometric shapes, colors.
If handrails for people with limited mobility are installed on plumbing equipment, more durable panel models that can withstand significant weight loads are chosen. The market offers a wide range of accessories and accessories for the bathroom. Therefore, it will not be difficult to choose those that emphasize the style features of a particular room.
Types and features of sliding screens
Although the sliding screen is more complex design than solid, it is still very easy to assemble and install. Dismantling the product is also easy. Most simple models equipped with a plastic or aluminum frame, the upper and lower bars of which have a profile in the form of the letter Sh. Two or three plywood or plastic panels are installed in these grooves.
More expensive models equipped with a system of rollers, which are a transitional link between the frame and the ribs of the "doors". Such screens are more convenient to use, since it is much easier to move and extend panels in them.
In the middle price range, there are models made of inexpensive plastic and thin anodized aluminum tubes. Each of these types of materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. Plastic panels are fragile, but have an undeniable advantage: moisture resistance. Anodized aluminum frames are more durable but prone to corrosion. Rust develops in places of damage (scratches). It is very difficult to avoid their appearance, since the bathroom is a regularly used room.
Bath screen designs are designed taking into account the dimensions of this plumbing equipment. Standard length frames - 150-180 cm. Height - 56-58 cm. If necessary, such frames can be easily shortened by sawing off part of the upper and lower slats with a metal file. But to increase the length of the frame will not work.
Sliding plastic and acrylic screens can be different: in the form of folding curtains, sliding panels and opening doors. The latter are used for models from a more massive material: MDF.
Installation of a sliding screen with an aluminum frame
The plastic screen under the bath is a fragile and not sufficiently reliable design. Therefore, the installation process provides for different ways to strengthen it. First of all, you need to find right place to set the screen. It should be slightly wound (drowned) towards the bath. In this case, drops of water flowing down from its side will not fall into the space beyond decorative panel. It (panel) must be installed strictly vertically.
To strengthen the structure, several methods are used that can be combined with each other.
- Mount the frame from the metal profile, side racks which is attached to the walls of the bathroom.
- Fix the left and right sides of the screen frame with a moisture-resistant sealant (the best choice is a sealant for the manufacture and repair of aquariums).
- Metal corners are attached to the walls of the bathroom, on which the screen frame will rest. For fastening with outside panels use self-tapping screws with decorative caps.
For execution installation work you will need the tools that every owner has in his arsenal.
- Screwdriver or drill.
- Screwdrivers.
- Roulette.
- Level.
- Pliers.
- Metal construction square.
Installation steps
Step 1. Find the middle of the panel. To do this, either measure the length of the screen with a tape measure, or find the desired parameter in the annotation for the product.
Step 2 Similarly, determine the midpoint on the top side of the bathroom.
Step 3 Make appropriate marks with a simple pencil. These actions are necessary in order to avoid displacement of the panel relative to the side, since the system is quite mobile.
Step 4 They put the screen next to the bath and tilt it so that you can get its upper part over the side. To do this, it is enough to tilt the product at an angle of 30 ° - 40 °.
Step 5 They find the optimal location of the screen and make appropriate marks on the walls with a marker.
Step 6 If metal corners are chosen as a reinforcing element, they are fixed along the marked lines. To do this, you will need a drill, an appropriate drill, dowel-nails.
If it is decided to build a frame, choose a metal profile of a larger section: rack or ceiling. For example, PP50x50 mm or PP60x27 mm. The frame of the guides (PN28x27) will not be so reliable. For screens up to 150 cm long, it is enough to mount a reinforcing frame around the perimeter. For longer panels, 1-2 intermediate posts must be installed.
The first step in building a frame is taking measurements. In accordance with the data obtained, the strips are cut from the metal profile. They are interconnected using self-tapping screws, corners or special fasteners - crabs (needed if there are intermediate racks). There are no difficult moments in the installation of such a frame. Therefore, everyone can build a frame for a screen under the bath.
Step 7 Install the assembled screen close to the supporting frame or to the metal corners.
Step 8 Unscrew the metal pins in the legs of the screen so that it is motionless.
Step 9 Attach the screen frame to the frame or metal corners decorative fasteners.
Screen fitting, fixing it
Step 10 Fill the gaps between the walls, the screen frame and the edge of the tub with silicone sealant.
Design features and installation of screens for acrylic bathtubs
Most models of acrylic bathtubs are shaped, so straight screens are not suitable for them. Manufacturers of this plumbing equipment are developing special designs that allow you to hide the installation elements of acrylic bathtubs. Usually such screens are included in the package of models. But they can also be bought separately from plumbing equipment.
Screens for acrylic baths can be monolithic and sliding. The installation process is the same. Feature such curly screens - L-shaped protrusion in the upper part of the product. This notch is needed so that the panel fits snugly against the side of the bathroom. But despite the fastening system, such screens are relatively mobile, as they are made of plastic with acrylic coated. In order to avoid pushing towards the space under the bathroom, different techniques are used.
Installation of acrylic screens is not difficult, but installation instructions are still needed. All types of these panels are fixed using a support system, which can be spring or plastic. Fasteners are located on the back of the screen.
Plastic decorative overlays are fixed at the stage of mounting the frame for an acrylic bathroom.
The springs lead into special ledges of the lower frame, on which the bath is installed. This support consists of several metal profiles rectangular section and has its own legs. As a rule, standard screens are equipped with three springs, one of which is located in the middle of the product, and the other two are on the sides.
Manufacturing technology of a sliding screen for a rectangular bath
Step 1. Cooking workplace. If it is planned to insulate and soundproof the bottom of the bath, then it is advisable to carry out these works even before installing the screen. For example, before placing a bathtub on legs, stick an insulating material (available from an automotive store) on the bottom of the tank to reduce the noise level when pouring water.
Advice! When installing the bath, use not only the legs that come with the kit, but also additional supports, for example, made of bricks. This guarantees better stability and prolongs the life of the product, as well as guarantees the tightness of the seam between the ledge and the wall.
Step 2 We prepare everything you need. For the manufacture of the screen, you can use plastic panels of any shades suitable for the design of the room.
plastic slats
Step 3 We work with panels. It is necessary to draw on a sheet of paper the configuration of the future screen and put down the dimensions. The screen may have additional recesses for laying pipes or other communications. It is necessary to carefully cut the panels with a jigsaw according to the plan, and then clean the burrs from the ends with sandpaper.
Using a miter box, it is necessary to cut a U-shaped profile at an angle of 45 degrees, after which silicone sealant glue the edging on the panel.
To avoid drilling additional holes, use self-adhesive sliding door handles. Degrease the panel surfaces, remove the protective film from the handles and press them against the plastic surface.
For a mortise handle, you will have to drill a hole with a rosette nozzle. The diameter of the hole must match the diameter of the handle. To install the handle, you need to put a little sealant on the edge and simply insert it into the finished hole.
Mortise handle
Step 4 Fixing the top rail liquid nails. It is important to degrease the bottom of the bathtub rim well so that a good fixation is ensured.
Step 5 We fix the lower guide from the F-shaped profile. It is necessary to drill several holes in the profile shelf to fix it to the floor.
To make markings for drilling on the floor, we apply a profile and mark the drilling points through the profile with a marker. First we use a drill for tiles, then for concrete.
We drill holes in the floor and blow dust out of them. We insert plastic dowels into the holes. We press the profile to the floor, tighten the screws. It is possible to apply a thin layer of sealant between the profile and the tile for a more aesthetic appearance of the installed structure.
Step 6 We insert the doors into the grooves of the lower and upper profiles. This completes the work.
Which will perform several functions at once. The easiest way is to buy a ready-made screen. However, if you are striving for individuality, then you should consider options for how to make a do-it-yourself bath screen. In this case, it will turn out to make the design of the bath based on your needs, and not templates.
The screen under the bathtub is a special protective fence behind which you can hide detergents and other important accessories. Behind it, you can successfully disguise communications such as sewage, plumbing and heating pipes. That is, such a structure carries an aesthetic load.
Consider its positive aspects:
- Functionality. From prying eyes you can hide inventory, cosmetics, household chemicals and more.
- Practicality. Although the water and sewer pipes are hidden, there is easy access to them, as there are inspection windows.
- Aesthetics. When decorating the interior of the bathroom, the screen under the bath will hide everything that spoils appearance.
- Easy to install. If you buy a ready-made screen, then it is very easy to assemble it. It is also quite possible to make a screen on your own.
- Profitability. Often from leftovers building materials, you can make a screen under the bath. In this case, you do not need to buy anything at all, except perhaps individual elements.
- Safety. If you have small children, it is important that household chemicals are hidden.
So, we can distinguish 3 main functions that the bathroom screen performs:
- Protective.
- Decorative.
- Utility.
Fortunately, today you can use a variety of building materials to make bath screens. For example, it could be:
- plastic;
- drywall;
- brick;
- ceramic tile And so on.
In addition, screens can be different types, namely deaf, with one door or with a special niche for legs and a sliding screen. Thanks to this choice, you can really make the lining of the bathtub beautiful and unusual.
Now let's look at a few original ideas how to make a screen under the bath yourself.
Due to the presence of a special coating, MDF panels are an excellent material for finishing work in the bathroom. They have a fairly high resistance to moisture. The structure of the panels is dense, and the plates themselves are impregnated with high quality special composition, which prevents the formation of mold and mildew. It is also worth noting that there is big variety textures and colors of coatings.
As for the manufacture of a screen for a bath, the assembly principle is based kitchen furniture. So, the manufacturing process is as follows:
- From wooden blocks it is necessary to mount the frame. To do this, fix the beam to the wall and floor with dowels.
- Between themselves, the bars are connected by corners.
- Be sure to consider the availability of access to plumbing units for their maintenance. Perhaps some part of the frame will be available for opening. To do this, you can install guides along which the doors will open.
- The finished frame is sheathed MDF boards. They must first be cut to size.
Design the frame itself so that when installing the MDF panels, they do not protrude beyond the bath. Otherwise, the finish will look ugly. Plus, water splashes falling on the end of the panel will gradually destroy it. In this case, even no impregnation will help.
If you are a supporter of a capital structure, then the bath screen can be made of brick. However, in this case, further cladding will be required. First, install the bath in its "legitimate" place. After under the bathroom around the perimeter, outline the location of the first row. In most cases, laying half a brick is sufficient. Before starting laying, you should immediately decide on what material the surface of the laid wall will be faced with. If this is a tile, then the laying should not be carried out flush with the edge of the bath, but go a little deeper - exactly the thickness of the tile and glue.
In the place where the siphon will be installed, it is necessary to build a small window. Later it can be covered with doors. You can buy them ready-made or make them yourself by attaching them to awnings. When laying bricks, do not lay the bath at the very top. A gap of up to 2 cm should be left between the last row of bricks and the bathroom itself. Then this seam is filled with mounting foam.
When the laying of the walls is ready, and the mortar has dried, you can proceed to the finishing work. As an option, you can veneer with ceramic tiles. After its laying, the seams are rubbed with grout. The result is a durable and beautiful screen under the bath.
In terms of screen formation, drywall is the most suitable material. From it you can make a design of any shape. The production of the screen begins with the installation metal frame. Although a wooden block can also be used for the frame, given the high humidity of this room, it is better to use a metal profile.
When installing the frame, keep in mind that a layer of drywall will be fixed on top, as well as facing material, it can be tiles. Therefore, when installing a profile, be sure to consider this thickness. Accordingly, the profile should be fixed with a slight recess from the edge of the tub.
To do this is quite simple. From the edge of the bathtub on the floor, mark the line. You can measure it with a level or a plumb line. Also, this line can be marked on the wall to which the bath screen will adjoin. After drawing a line along the entire bath, step back from it by the thickness of drywall, glue and tile. On average, this distance can be equal to 23.5 mm.
After that, the UD profile is fixed along the marked line. The profile is pre-coated with sealant. This will completely eliminate the penetration of moisture under the bath. Now it's time to install the CD profile with a step of up to 600 mm. Where it is planned to manufacture a window, profiles are additionally mounted to secure the door. When the frame is completely ready, it should be sewn up with moisture-resistant drywall.
When choosing screws, be sure to consider their length. If they are too long, then there is a risk that the self-tapping screw will screw into the acrylic bath.
When all drywall is screwed on, it should be revetted. Ceramic tiles are ideal for this.
Scheme
On these diagrams you can see the sequence of making a screen for a plasterboard bath:
If your bath has a non-standard rectangular shape, then the screen can be made at an angle. You can also use drywall for this. The framework is made of a metal profile. Incisions are made on it, and after that it is given any shape. In this case, 2 similar profiles should be made. To strengthen the frame, vertical profiles must be mounted. Also, the frame is installed with a small recess from the edge of the bath rim. This will allow you to install the facing material (tile) on the same level as the bathroom.
As for the drywall itself, when screwing it, it is important to carefully give it a curved shape. There are two options for how to do this. The first is to make cuts on drywall with the same pitch and gently bend it. Also upper layer cardboard can be wetted and placed at a slight angle to the wall. Gradually, under its weight, it will acquire the desired shape.
The first option is more practical if the bending angle is too large.
This type of screen also has its own distinctive features. For example, ready-made sliding products are on sale today. However, not in all cases they are suitable for the size already purchased and installed bath. Moreover, for acrylic bathtubs, acrylic screens are often included, which are suitable exclusively for a specific bathtub model. But in this case, the screen is deaf. Such products are not made sliding. Therefore, we suggest that you consider the option of manufacturing a sliding screen based on a finished design.
To do this, you must have a guide along which the door will move. You will also need to cut the panel into two parts. One of them can be fixed, and the second is mobile. However, both parts can be movable. In this case, the guide should have two lines for moving the doors. In this way, a frame is made, on which the guide should be fixed under the rim of the bath and on the floor. A guide is attached to it and doors are installed. AT without fail handles are attached to the door, for which it will be possible to move the door. In this case, it will turn out to make a sliding plastic screen.
To give the bath an original look, you can build a mirror screen. Its manufacture is similar to the process of making a plastic screen. To move the sash, plastic or metal guides are used. They have small rollers, thanks to which the smooth movement of the mirror screen will be carried out.
The material is fastened with special clips for glass. Pay attention to the quality of fastening. It must be reliable. Additionally, a mirror can be glued to liquid nails. In this case, it will not fall off.
It is not recommended to use Double-sided tape. In bathroom high humidity and often heat. This can adversely affect the adhesive tape, which simply ceases to perform its main functions and the mirror falls off.
This type of screen has its significant drawbacks. For example, water droplets will always remain on the surface of the mirror, which, after drying, form spots. Therefore, after each bath, the mirror screen must be wiped.
Fabric materials can be used as a screen, such as artificial leather, waterproof nylon material, membrane structure fabric, polyester material, etc.
How to fix such a screen? Everything is pretty simple. Using special glue, glue one side of the Velcro to the inside of the bathtub rim. If necessary, then the edges of the curtain (screen) and the bottom must be sheathed on sewing machine. The other side of the Velcro is sewn to the upper edge of the curtain. Then the curtain is attached to the tub with Velcro. This is a cheap option for a bath screen, which is very important on a limited budget.
If you do not want to make a screen yourself, but decide to buy it, then pay attention to some of the nuances of the right choice:
- In the case when the bathroom is spacious, then almost any screen can fit.
- Provided that the bath room is small, for example, as in Khrushchev, the choice is limited. In this case better fit sliding door or removable and monolithic. As for the monolithic, it is ideal for a narrow bath.
- Sliding screen models are much more convenient when they are immediately equipped with shelves. In this case, it is possible to hide all the necessary accessories for the bath, household chemicals, etc.
- If you have an acrylic bath, then in most cases the screens are included. If not, then immediately pick it up in the store so that it is completely suitable.
- Pay attention to the quality of the handles. They must be made of a material that does not rust.
- If the selected screen has legs in its design, then they must be adjustable. Otherwise, it will be difficult to install it under individual characteristics baths, especially when the floor is not completely level.
- It is best when the fittings are made of metal. Plastic can break quickly.
So, from this article, we learned with you how to make a screen under the bath with our own efforts. We saw different variants arrangement of this important element. If you bought a ready-made screen, then we also looked at how to install it correctly. In addition to this article, you can watch videos that demonstrate some of the technologies. If you have your own experience or know of other possible arrangements for the bathroom space, then write about your experience and ideas at the end of this article.
Video
In the provided video, you can clearly see several options for making a screen for a bath:
A photo
In the photographs you can see a lot of original ideas for making a screen for a bath:
Scheme
The diagrams show the details of installation and assembly of the screen:
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You can also finish using ceramic tiles. But it will be necessary to pre-sheathe the frame with moisture-resistant drywall. But, first things first: so, the first version of the finish.
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Method number 1: covering the screen with plastic
First of all, you will need to cut the plastic panels to the size of the prepared frame. If they are short, then you can mount them vertically in 2 pieces. Make them fit required dimensions possible with the help assembly knife. But be sure to make a preliminary marking on them in order to exclude the occurrence of a curved cut. Then you need to start fixing them on plastic screws. But do not forget to leave a place under the hatch during this. Measure its parameters and make a mark on the frame. It will need to be further installed to such a depth that it is in the same plane as the screen. The hatch is fixed on a metal frame. It will need to be mounted on self-tapping screws. Then you will need to install the hatch itself and fix its door first with wedges. Then self-tapping screws for metal are taken, and with them it is fastened with its own hands through the frame to the screen frame.
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Method number 2: finishing with tiles
If you decide to make a screen in the bathroom of ceramic tiles, then the workflow will be a little different. First of all, it will be necessary to install the hatch according to the above scheme. Then the drywall is mounted on the frame. It must be highly moisture resistant. This material is fixed with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to screw these fasteners at a right angle, this is done using a screwdriver.
The next step is to start installing tiles. Here you should use a special glue. It is easy to use and allows you to finish without any hassle. Apply adhesive to ceramic tiles with a spatula. It should be used to make an even layer. Then the finishing material is glued to the drywall. When the installation of the tiles is fully completed, it will be necessary to grout the joints.
In order to hide all communications, pipes and drains that are under the bathroom, a special screen is installed. It mainly carries an aesthetic load so that the view of the bottom of the bath does not spoil the design of the bathroom. Some modern bathtubs already come with screens that perfectly match it in appearance and functionality, but not all of them. In order not to spend money on buying a ready-made and not very cheap screen, you can think about how to make a screen for a bath with your own hands. This not only allows you to significantly save money, but also to install the screen, which will fully meet the tastes and preferences of the owners, in addition, you can equip the screen with several useful functions.
What is a bath screen made of?
There are a huge number of building materials that can be used in a humid bathroom environment. So we can distinguish the following options, based mainly on the material that will form the basis of the screen:
- Brick screen laying;
- Sheathing with moisture-resistant drywall, followed by finishing with any suitable material(tile, plaster, wallpaper, etc.)
- Sheathing with moisture-resistant MDF, OSB with subsequent finishing;
- Plastic sheathing.
- Buying a finished screen or a set of sliding doors.
In addition to the store solution, only plastic sheathing actually allows you to form a screen without the need for further finishing. This material is quite acceptable and practical, not affected by moisture and biologically neutral. Easy to clean and strong enough even if one or more strips get damaged plastic sheathing it is easy to replace. Still, for durable construction, or if the plastic just doesn't fit into the interior of the bath, you should choose one of the remaining three options.
In any case, the screen on the bath, no matter what it is assembled from, must meet several requirements:
- To access the main sewerage nodes and laid communications, there must be a technological opening that can be closed with a door or a plug;
- It is desirable to hermetically isolate the space near the floor to separate the floor under the bath and the rest of the bathroom;
- The screen is not load-bearing structure and the tub must not rest on it.
For convenience, a small notch is formed in the screen, most often with a slope so that it does not interfere with the legs. Some craftsmen, if there is free space under the bathroom or on the side of it, mount an additional cabinet or drawer for household chemicals or detergents as part of the screen.
Brick screen laying
In this option, everything is simple. Along the border of the bath or from wall to wall, near which the bath stands, a brick wall half a brick thick is erected. Necessarily, as in the construction of an ordinary wall, the brick is altered, that is, each next row is shifted by half a brick. In a place convenient for access to the drain of the bath, a window is formed. In order to cover it, it is enough to buy or make a door and attach it to the awnings.
Although the brick wall is strong enough, you still shouldn’t lean the bath on it, so there should be a gap of about 1-2 cm between the last row of bricks and the edge of the bath, which is blown with mounting foam. After that, you can sheathe the brickwork with ceramic tiles or any other suitable material that will be combined with the design of the room.
If you liked this option, but you do not know how to lay a brick - read about the basics of working with it.
Plasterboard sheathing
The most flexible way in terms of screen shape formation. Everything rests only on the desire of the owner. Installing the screen under the bath begins with the formation of the frame. To do this, you can use both a metal profile and a wooden bar 40x40 mm. A tree is also required to be protected from moisture, otherwise rot and fungus will inevitably appear.
When installing the frame, it is taken into account that the front material will also be sheathed over the drywall. So, along the wall to which the side part of the bath adjoins, a line for setting the edge of the profile is marked so that it is deepened from the edge of the bath by the thickness of the subsequent skin. For example, if it is supposed to overlay the screen with tiles, then an indent of 12.6 mm + 5 mm + 4-6 mm (tile thickness) = 21.6-23.6 mm is made. The line must be continued along the floor along the entire length to which the screen will extend. In this case, a plumb line is used to correct for the edge of the tub.
A UD profile is fixed along the perimeter of the resulting line. The profile that is attached to the floor should additionally be glued with a sealant to prevent water from getting under and out of the bathtub. Next, the CD profile is installed vertically with fastening to the support profile. The distance between the profiles is maintained at 600 mm, and racks are additionally installed in the place where the technological hole or recess for the installation of a drawer or cabinet will be located.
A ledge for legs can be formed in the center of the bath. To do this, the profile on the floor is not installed in a straight line, but in the form of the letter P with a recess under the bath by about 10-15 cm. At the same time, the racks in the niche will be installed at an angle.
Example of a tiled drywall screen with ledge
For sheathing, moisture-resistant green drywall is used. It is cut to the appropriate length, equal to the height of the screen minus 2 cm. Fastening is done with hardened black self-tapping screws every 15 cm along the perimeter of the sheet and in the center along the profile. It is important to choose the correct length of the screws so that you do not inadvertently screw the top screws into the acrylic bath. Sheets are attached with indents from the floor and the edge of the bath by 1 cm. This is necessary to prevent swelling of the drywall. After all, even though it is moisture resistant, however, from direct contact with water it will still begin to collapse.
When the sheathing is finished, the drywall is primed and sheathed with any suitable material, such as ceramic tiles, decorative plaster, moisture resistant wet wallpaper, film materials, etc.
Video: an example of installing a fixed screen under a plasterboard bathroom
Sheathing MDF, OSB
The whole process is virtually identical to drywall sheathing. The only difference is that additional ventilation slots should be made in the screen on the opposite side of the technological hole. To do this, it is enough to make a slot only 2-3 cm wide and 5-10 cm long, which can be covered with a neat plastic grill. MDF sheets must be primed on both sides before fixing to the frame.
Screen made of plastic lining
The simplest option would be to cover the bathtub with plastic clapboard. In this variant, a beautiful finished surface is immediately obtained and no additional processing or sheathing is required. If necessary, the screen can be easily disassembled for full access to the space under the bathroom.
In addition to the lining itself, you will also need a starting profile, which is strengthened around the perimeter of the future screen. From the upper part, under the edge of the bathtub, a beam or a metal profile is first fixed to the walls, and only then a plastic starting profile. For the reliability and strength of the entire structure, it is also desirable to fix the profiles in the middle of the screen. This is especially important when using cheap options for plastic lining, which, even from small mechanical loads, can deform and lose shape. The lower profile, as in the previously described options, is desirable to be glued to the floor with a sealant.
Strips of plastic are cut using a conventional construction knife and wind up the edges into the starting profile. So the entire surface of the screen is typed. A rectangle is cut in the place where the technological hole is formed and a special plastic door is inserted, which are sold in the same places as the lining itself.
Since there is an unimaginable variety of plastic lining on sale color design, pattern and even texture, then choosing the right option is not difficult.
Sliding version of the plastic screen under the bathroom
As for the sliding screen for the bathroom, its creation requires either imagination or a ready-made kit for installation from any hardware store. If you don’t have a second one, we recommend looking for ways to implement it from craftsmen. One of the options is in the video below.
In conclusion
As can be seen from the presented options, only the use of plastic allows you to assemble a bath screen that can be quickly dismantled and reassembled if necessary. However, other methods make it possible to use significantly large quantity facing materials so that the screen does not stand out against the background of the overall interior design, especially when there is no plastic in its composition.
In any case, although installing a screen for a bathtub with your own hands will take a little longer than installing a ready-made purchased one, the result will be much more acceptable for compliance. complete picture interior. In addition, a hand-assembled screen will be cheaper and more reliable than most ready-made ones that are offered with an installed bath.
Video: step-by-step photo instructions for creating a decorative podium for a bath
A bathtub screen is a structure installed between the edge of the bathtub and the floor, covering plumbing communications. It carries an aesthetic load to a greater extent, so that the appearance of the side edge of the bath does not fall out of the integrity of the bathroom design.
Screen types
There are three main types of bathroom screens:
- Sliding;
- Fixed removable;
- Stationary.
Let's consider each in more detail.
Sliding screens
They are the most functional and comfortable. The frame of this design consists of a fixed base and guides along which the doors move. Due to the ease of access, various household items can be stored under the bathroom. Among the disadvantages of a sliding screen, it is worth noting the discrepancy between quality and price - at a high cost, their design is rather flimsy. They are mounted by wedging between the bottom surface of the bathtub and the floor, which is not very reliable, so they often have to be reinstalled.
Fixed removable screens
Fixed removable screen
This type of screen is usually used in combination with acrylic bathtubs. Its main advantage is a presentable appearance and the possibility of making a mold of any complexity. Plastic screens under the bath is quite difficult to remove, so you can store behind them only completely unnecessary things.
Stationary screens
Stationary screens are not available as finished products, they are made individually for each case. They can be divided into two types:
- With full access to the space under the bathroom;
- With partial access - only for servicing communications.
Doors for stationary screens come in a variety of designs:
- Expandable;
- swing open;
- reclining;
- In the form of a hatch;
- In the form of an accordion;
- Other non-standard solutions.
Screen materials
For the construction of the screen, you can use various materials:
- Metal;
- Drywall, fiberboard, MDF, OSB;
- Glass;
- Plastic;
- Brick;
- combinations of these materials.
Basic requirements for bathroom screen material:
- moisture resistance;
- Practicality;
- Durability;
- Ease of operation;
- Resistant to fungus and mold.
Plasterboard bath screen installation
Important! Before building a screen for a bath, you should carefully examine the condition of plumbing communications and, if necessary, put them in order.
To build a screen under the bath, you will need the following set of tools:
- Drill;
- Hand saw;
- Electric jigsaw;
- Square, ruler and pencil;
- Plumb;
- Level;
- metal corners;
- Screws and dowels;
- Bars 40x40 mm.
The frame of the screen is made of wooden blocks with a section of 40x40 millimeters. They are installed along the edges of the bath and mounted to the walls and floor.
For the manufacture of the frame, you can use a metal profile.
The installation of the frame can be divided into two stages:
- Preparatory work;
- Fastening.
There are several ways to install a bathtub, but the most common is the corner one. It saves space and will be appropriate for any layout.
- Using a plumb line, draw vertical lines on the walls that the tub touches. Don't try hard, you'll have to erase them.
- Draw lines parallel to them inside the outline of the tub, at a distance of 25 mm.
- Now the first lines drawn can be erased.
- Mark on the floor the point of the corner of the tub, to do this, use a plumb line installed on the corner of the tub, which is not adjacent to the walls.
- Draw a square with a 25 mm edge, so that the point is its corner, and the figure itself is located inside the outline of the bath. Such an indent is the necessary margin for installing the screen and its cladding.
- From the corner of the square inside the outline of the tub, draw lines to the verticals drawn on the walls.
- Prepare wooden blocks according to the following parameters:
- For vertical elements: bars whose length is equal to the height from the side to the floor - 4 pcs.
- For horizontal elements:
- Bars with a length of 80 mm shorter than the width of the bath - 2 pcs.;
- Bars with a length of 120 mm shorter than the length of the bath - 2 pcs.
Wooden frame fastening
After preparing the building material and carrying out marking work, you can proceed with the installation of the screen frame under the bath.
To begin with, we mount the smaller side of the screen:
- Using a corner, from four bars, assemble a short frame;
- Make 2 holes in the frame with a drill for attaching it to the wall;
- Make similar holes in the wall;
- Fix the frame to the wall using dowels that match the material it is made of (hollow wall, solid wall, wall block or brick).
In order for the structure to have greater rigidity, it is better to additionally fasten the frame to the floor.
The other side is mounted in the same way. Both frames should be fastened with screws.
Screen
To make the screen, you will need two 16 mm chipboard panels or a sheet of moisture-resistant drywall, the smaller panel of which corresponds to the size of the short frame.
Similar to the installation of the frame, the installation of the screen is carried out in two stages:
- Preparatory work;
- Consolidation.
Preparatory work for installing the screen
The space under the bathroom rarely pleases the eye, because it is here that the communication pipes are located, washing powders and other chemicals. And in order to streamline this corner of the room, they use a bath screen - a kind of screen that covers the front and sides to the floor. But besides the aesthetic moment, such a device can also perform a protective function, saving the bathtub from accidental tipping over, or become an additional place to store various little things. Modern plumbing is sold already with ready-made screens, but if you were unable to buy a kit or you want to upgrade your old model, you can do it yourself.
What can be a screen for a bath: varieties of models
For each bath, you can choose the most suitable design, given the dimensions free space and the geometry of the model itself. It is also important to understand whether you will only close or use the space under the bathroom for storage (in the second case, and from which side to make access).
According to the type of construction, several types are distinguished:
1. Deaf - the easiest option for a homemade screen. The bath is laid with brick or drywall, and decorated with tiles or mosaics on top. As a result, the design looks solid and very effectively merges with the floor or wall decoration, but the area under the bathroom remains unused. If you decide to install a blank screen under the bathroom, be sure to provide a small door for access to communications, otherwise, in case of an emergency, you will have to dismantle the structure.
2. Swing - a modified version of a blank screen, which provides 1-2 niches for access to communications and storage of household chemicals. Doors can be removable or hinged (the latter, of course, are more convenient).
3. Folding - the screen is equipped with doors on hinges and magnets or latches, which lean to one side. And if you supplement the model with small shelves and gas lifts, you can conveniently place all kinds of shampoos, gels and cosmetics for hygiene procedures.
4. Sliding - ergonomic design popular for small spaces. The doors at such a screen move along skids according to the “compartment” principle, opening access to the desired niche.
Also, the screen can be equipped with additional amenities, for example, a recess for the legs, open shelves, drawers , step ,etc.
Screen materials: types and requirements
You can make a do-it-yourself bath screen from almost any building material, the size of which can be adjusted to fit the niche. Of course, the choice largely depends on the type of construction, but the main requirements for materials are obvious: resistance to water and temperature extremes, ease of cleaning and installation.
Therefore, the most popular for the manufacture of screens:
1. Moisture-resistant drywall - easy to use, but requires additional cladding, such as mosaics.
2. OSB, plywood - they need mandatory impregnation with antiseptics and a protective coating of varnish, paint, PVC film or tiles. From wooden materials, you can find ready-made options for MDF screens
3. Plastic - lightweight material, the most popular for the manufacture of sliding screens, with a mass of decorative solutions.
4. Brick - gives stability to the structure, but can create an additional load on the ceiling. However, it is the best solution for installing and supporting lightweight acrylic tubs that can buckle under heavy weight.
5. Acrylic - durable, smooth and spectacular panels that are completed with finished baths, but for standard model you can buy them separately and install them yourself.
Let us consider in more detail several ways to make partitions for a bath from various materials.
Do-it-yourself screen for a bath made of brick or aerated concrete
Masonry will help to close the space under the bathroom with a strong partition, which can be done even in ½ or 1/4 bricks. In order to make the markup correctly, it is important to take into account not only the thickness of the wall itself, but also make an allowance for the decorative trim. If it will be ceramic tiles, wall paneling or mosaic, feel free to add 2-2.5 cm, including glue.
Work algorithm:
1. We designate a place for masonry. To do this, we lower the plumb line from the edge of the bath and beat off the horizontal line. From this guideline we subtract the thickness of the glue and tiles or other cladding material. In order for the screen to look spectacular, it should be flush with the sides of the bath, but if the font has a rounded decorative edge, it is better to drown the partition a little deeper - this way there will be no problem with sealing the seams. According to the markup, we lay the first row of bricks, fastening them together with cement mortar. The second row is performed with the displacement of each stone by ½.
2. If you need to make an open niche for the legs, an opening of 2-3 bricks is left in the middle of the first 2-3 rows of masonry. But before you build such a niche, think about it, is it really necessary? Moisture will constantly penetrate through the hole, and from there it will pull with dampness, and it is unlikely that such amenities are vital today, when almost every house has a washing machine. As a last resort, make the hole blind by laying back wall excavations with the same brick.
3. But where exactly an opening is needed is opposite the siphon, in order to open access to plumbing if necessary. This hole can be closed with a small hinged door or a plywood sheet decorated to match the tub lining.
4. The top row should be laid so that there is a gap of 2-3 cm between the masonry and the side of the bathtub. If necessary, the bricks are cut with a grinder, and the remaining gap is blown with mounting foam. Then the seams are rubbed, excess foam is cut off, and the screen surface is primed and covered with a decorative layer of tiles, mosaics or other finishing materials.
How to make a do-it-yourself bath screen from plastic panels or drywall
With the help of plasterboard or plastic sheathing, you can make both a deaf structure and a sliding or folding panel under the bathroom. They are mounted in the same way - on the frame. But sliding and folding models are additionally equipped with appropriate fittings. It should be noted that such a screen will mainly perform a decorative function, as a support, its help is almost zero.
For work you will need:
Plastic panels or moisture resistant drywall.
Metallic profile or wooden bars impregnated with an antiseptic.
Dowels, self-tapping screws.
Liquid Nails.
Tools: knife, screwdriver, level, perforator, construction stapler.
Work algorithm:
1. Marking is carried out for the frame using a level / plumb line. The starting point is the upper side of the bathtub, from which reference lines on the floor and adjacent walls bounce off (of course, taking into account the thickness of the frame and cladding materials).
2. Then, fragments of the required length are cut out of the bars or profile and attached to the floor according to the markings. For wood, self-tapping screws and glue are used, the profile is mounted using specialized fasteners. Vertical supports are installed every 50-60 cm. The upper part of the frame is fixed to the walls with dowels, and to the side of the bathtub - with liquid nails.
3. Now you can sheathe the bathroom screen itself by cutting panels or drywall sheets to the desired size. Plastic is attached to liquid nails, drywall - both to glue and screws / self-tapping screws.
Please note that the plastic itself is a finish, but drywall must be rubbed at the seams and decorated with tiles or other moisture-resistant material. You can also build a sliding screen from the panels if you install guides on top and bottom of the frame along which the door will “ride”.
But if you are not strong in construction and are looking for an easy-to-use option on how to make a screen under the bath with your own hands, you can simply pull a thick fishing line along the side and beautifully drape the niche and all its contents with a waterproof fabric.
Installing an acrylic bathtub is not the most difficult plumbing operation, but it also has its own nuances. If you purchased a branded product...
The screen serves as a screen for communications connected to the bathroom. Under it, the legs of the bath, installed on linings, drains, sewer outlets, pipes, are perfectly hidden. But in addition to the functions associated with the aesthetics of space, the screen can perform other useful work. For example, to serve as a support for the stability of the bath or to be a closet for small things.
Acrylic bathtubs and other representatives of the latest generation of plumbing are often immediately equipped with a screen, ideal for hiding dark corners and communications. But what if the bath is old, and you don’t want to see its shabby sides every day? You can purchase a ready-made screen, and if you don’t want to spend money on a store option or you need a screen under the bathroom to 100 percent meet your requirements, you can make a screen under the bath with your own hands. Here are some ways to create a screen.
The screen providing access under the bathroom is made with sliding doors or with a built-in cabinet for household chemicals; may have vertically or horizontally opening cavities. It is advisable to equip vertical opening structures according to the principle of blinds or equip them with gas lifts and other fixtures that are well known to furniture makers.
bath screen requirements
Bath Screen Materials
Those materials that you will use in the bathroom should not be afraid of water and moisture, temperature changes. It is also important that they are not subject to rapid destruction from mold or fungus.
You can make the base of the screen from almost any building material, and then finish it on the outside to your liking. For cladding, plastic panels or tiles are used.
Homemade screen options:
The fastest way is to cover the frame under the bathroom with MDF panels. Strips of plastic or MDF are biologically neutral and practical. These materials are easy to cut and fasten together.
After erection, the brick base will need to be sheathed and plastered or tiled on it. And before installing a wooden frame, the wood must be coated with a special impregnation to protect it from moisture.
Not for every bath you can find a ready-made screen. For some, it is set high, for someone, on the contrary, it is low, there are also bathtubs of non-standard sizes. In addition, not everyone wants to put plastic - there is no trust in the material or they don’t like it outwardly. In all these cases, you need to make a screen under the bath with your own hands or call the master. In any case, knowing how you can and should do everything will not hurt.
Materials and requirements for them
- galvanized profile sheathed with sheet material:
- moisture resistant drywall;
- moisture resistant or laminated plywood not less than 10 mm thick;
- GVL ( a good choice, since it is absolutely not afraid of moisture and is not deformed);
- bricks;
- aerated concrete 50 mm thick;
- plastic panels and guides for their installation (this option is purely decorative, suitable only for cast iron or steel bathtubs).
All of these structures, except for the last one, require finishing. Most often it is porcelain tile or ceramic bathroom.
The most common version of a homemade bath screen is from profiles and drywall. In order for the structure to be reliable and not to bend under loads, the profile must be taken with a thick wall, it can be reinforced. Also required condition- good quality galvanizing. If possible, you should take branded profiles so that there are no problems later - after all, high humidity in the bathroom is the norm.
Sheet material for the frame must be moisture resistant. This is a prerequisite. And even in this case, before installation, it will not hurt to prime it with a composition that increases water-repellent properties. Not bad if this composition is also antibacterial - protection against mold and fungi will not hurt.
Brick screens are made mainly for acrylic bathtubs- so that part of the load can be transferred to a brick wall. Although, if desired, the profile frame can be made with sufficient bearing capacity - to make double reinforced racks.
If it is decided to make a screen for a brick bath, it must be used ceramic, red. Silicate is better not to take because of its hygroscopicity. ceramic brick It is also hygroscopic, but its absorbency is less. To minimize possible problems (painting from high humidity), it is desirable to cover the masonry from the inside with a layer of plaster. This is not easy, but if desired, it is possible to apply the solution as the screen is erected. Special care is not required, the main thing is to protect the brick from moisture.
Another version of the screen under the bath, which you can do with your own hands - from aerated concrete. This material is easy to process. The required relief is formed easily, even with a sharp piece of iron, and the block is cut with an ordinary saw. For all that, the blocks have a good bearing capacity. So this material can also be used for a homemade acrylic bathroom screen. In addition, the blocks are big sizes, so that this small wall is formed very quickly.
Note! In the photo above you see a block worked on one side. This is done so that after laying the tile, it is flush with the sides of the bathroom, and does not protrude outward. For the same purpose, during installation, the blocks are slightly recessed, leaving a gap equal to the thickness of the tile and tile adhesive.
In the photo, the master keeps the underworked part pointing down, but when laying the block, they turn it over. In this position, glue is applied to its lower part, which fixes the block to the floor. Glue is applied to one more side face and to the top. This ensures fixation with the side of the bath and the previous block. The technology for making a screen for an aerated concrete bath is simple, if you have at least some experience in masonry, you can handle it.
Constructions
We will talk about how you can make a screen under the bath with your own hands so that it is functional, beautiful and comfortable. Everyone has their own idea of comfort and beauty. Therefore we will consider possible options, and you yourself decide how best to do it.
Wide rim or not
Sometimes a wide side is made around the bathroom. It looks like it's in a box. On the one hand, this is convenient - you can put something on the sides and, from an aesthetic point of view, the bath fits more harmoniously into the interior.
But not everyone can afford to allocate a large space. Bathrooms usually do not please with their size and extra 10-15 cm can be critical. In addition, this type of installation may be inconvenient for older people. To enter the bath, you have to take a big step, which is not always possible for them.
But this option has another positive moment: under the bathroom, you can make shelves of large width. They can be open or with sliding / hinged doors.
Similar shelves are made without a wide side, but their depth is much less. Although, maybe this is not a minus, but a plus - less different things will be collected, it is easier to get something and clean it up.
Leg notch
It is more convenient to wash a bath or wash clothes in it if there is a recess for the legs in the screen. Its depth can be small - 10-12 cm is enough, width - about 35-45 cm. Such dimensions allow you to reach the walls and the opposite side without stress.
We decided on the dimensions, it's up to the small thing - to choose how it will look. The easiest square notch to organize. It can be made of brick, aerated concrete and profile.
The non-standard variation looks more interesting - the entire screen is made of two levels, when top part hangs over the bottom (pictured below). In this option, it is possible for backlighting. Should be interesting.
In two levels - unusual
The next option is to make part of the screen tilted. In the case of a profile, this is easy to implement - with a brick - it is almost impossible, with aerated concrete - it is possible, but difficult.
There is another option - to raise the upper edge of the screen above the floor by a few centimeters. It will turn out on legs and no problems with legroom. But there are cleaning issues. You can’t lift the cladding high - it’s ugly, but if you leave a small gap, then how to clean it? Problem.
In general, from all these options, you can choose something most suitable for yourself, although they also make a blank flat screen to the floor.
Hatches for revision
The bath screen must necessarily have a removable / opening part through which you can access communications. There are several possibilities to do this. The first is to install a plastic hatch. Not everyone likes it outwardly, but this is the easiest and cheapest option.
The next possibility is to make a removable panel, which will be attached to the frame with magnets. Not to say that this option is difficult to implement, but it requires more experience - you need to calculate the installation location of the hatch so that whole tiles fit on it.
Instead of a hatch - a removable panel
One moment: if you rub the seams with a light paste, the hatch will still stand out. There is no grouting in this place, but there are small gaps that are very noticeable against a light background.
The most technologically advanced, but also the most expensive way is to install special hatches for revision. They are of two types - folding on chains and rotary.
These hatches, unlike plastic ones, are designed for laying tiles on them. With a good installation and correct calculation, it is not easy to see it.
How to make a screen under the bath with your own hands
Far from always general view the same screen you can guess how to do it. Those who have at least some experience in repair and construction work will probably understand, but ordinary people are unlikely. To make it easier to navigate, we will post several photo reports on the manufacture of home-made bathroom screens different type and kind.
From the profile and drywall
Making a screen for a drywall bath takes place in three stages: first, the frame is assembled, then it is sheathed with drywall, and then tiles are laid on the glue.
The order of work is as follows:
The plasterboard bath screen is ready.
An interesting option for a more rigid screen design is the floor of the bath in this video. It will definitely not break even under heavy loads. And all that is needed is to fix the racks to the body of the bath. To do this, a piece of profile is glued to the wall of the bath on liquid nails. Then the racks are fixed to this profile with the help of short segments.
For curved bath
When making a screen for a curved bathtub, the main task is to repeat its smooth curves. AT this case you can also use a galvanized profile for drywall PN 27 * 28. Instead of drywall, put EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) 50 mm thick, high density (preferably the densest). Since acrylic bathtubs most often have a non-linear shape, they require a more reliable support than a drywall sheet. Extruded polystyrene foam high density- a fairly rigid material that can withstand the pressure of the walls of the bathtub filled with water.
You will also need a grinder or metal shears, two or three bottles of polyurethane foam. The order of work is as follows:
This technique is suitable for making a do-it-yourself screen for an acrylic bath. Mounting foam will support the walls and also insulate them. In such a bath will keep warm for a long time.
PVC bath screen
You can’t call this product durable, but it is built quickly and the costs are scanty. You will need two planks of PVC panels, starting guides for them, corners, liquid nails. Of the tools - a ruler or tape measure, a sheet of metal floor, scissors.
For ease of use, the walls are tilted inward. This design determined the assembly order: if you glue the profiles right away, you cannot insert PVC strips into them. Therefore, first we assemble the wall of plastic into a profile, then we put the entire wall in place, gluing the profile (we apply glue, slightly pushing the wall back, then we move it into place). Such a trick was a success with a short end wall.
With the length of the wall had to be done differently. First, all the pieces were collected in place into a single canvas (without start profile at the bottom). The slats rested on the floor and the notch of the side. Then a guide was inserted under the finished wall. This was made possible because the planks are cut 1-2 mm shorter than necessary. In general, all dimensions were measured very accurately, all slats have the same length. The wall stands securely and without glue. They did not glue it, since it is long, and it is not clear how to return it to its place.
It remains to close up the joints with the walls and finish the corner of the screen. We carefully measure the piece that is missing, transfer the dimensions to plastic, and cut it off. We put the cut parts in place.
Now we need to refine the joints. Profile guides are slipped under the strips that are adjacent to the walls. They could be installed immediately during installation - there would be fewer problems.
Here with a corner it was necessary to tinker. It is necessary to drive two planes into it at the same time. It was possible only with the help of a steel ruler. A lot of time has passed.
It is not difficult to make this screen under the bath with your own hands. Just be careful with it - the plastic is pressed through very simply. Another disadvantage of this option is the lack of inspection hatch. As there will be problems, you will have to disassemble the part.
