Do-it-yourself heating radiator screen. Effective screen for a heating radiator: design, physics, construction. Video: beautiful but inefficient screen

Cast iron radiators rarely fit well into the interior. Bimetallic or aluminum batteries meet the requirements of modern design, but they are no longer suitable for classic styles.

What needs to be done to improve battery efficiency with a screen

The screen to some extent reduces heat removal from the surface of the battery. That is, the difference in the temperature of the coolant between the direct supply and the return will be less.

It is impossible to speak about an unambiguous deterioration in the convection rate due to the presence of a screen. Suffice it to cite as an example electric convectors, in which the heating element is located in the housing in the form of a box with an inlet at the bottom and an outlet at the top. Such a device even improves convection, since the duct acts as a vertical duct, which increases the flow rate.

But what is good for convectors is not suitable for radiators. The battery works on both convection and radiation (radiation). And the screen absorbs some part of the infrared radiation, and some reflects back. And if the thermal energy absorbed by the screen creates conditions for secondary convection, then the reflected one heats the facade. This heat can be made to work for space heating. Even under normal conditions (without a screen), it is recommended to install a reflective plane behind the radiator, which returns infrared radiation from the inner surface of the battery into the room. Usually foil foam (or similar material) is used. When installing the screen, this recommendation is doubly relevant.

Construction types and materials

The main element of the screen is a façade in the form of a flat decorative panel with openings that provide natural air convection. The top and side panels are not always used - it depends on the place where the battery is installed. For example, the presence of a wide window sill and a niche make them optional.

The following screen mounting methods can be distinguished.

1. Mounted. The screen itself or together with the box is hung with an emphasis on the battery or against the wall on hooks.

2. Floor. The screen plays the role of a facade on the box in the form of a kind of narrow bedside table.

3. Installed. The battery is hidden inside a niche, and the screen is a decorative part of the overall wall surface.

The supporting structure of the box can be made of a wooden beam or an aluminum corner - it depends on the materials of the decorative panel and its frame. The panel itself can be made from different materials: wooden slats, plywood, laminated fiberboard or chipboard, metal mesh.

During installation, a frame made of galvanized steel profile or a wooden beam is usually used as a supporting structure (similar to the technology of installing plasterboard partitions).

In a separate view, decorative glass screens can be distinguished. This is the only type of material that is used in pure sheet form, without holes. And in order not to disturb convection, the panel is installed without top and side walls. Installation takes place with the help of special fasteners on bearing elements made of cold-rolled decorative pipes, which provide the necessary ventilation gap between the battery and the panel.

Wooden screens

The simplest screen to manufacture is a panel in the form of a lattice of wooden slats, fixed on a wooden frame. The position of the rails can be any - vertical, horizontal, diagonal.

If desired, you can make a cellular lattice by placing the slats at an angle to each other, and using two opposite layout directions. Moreover, the angle between them does not have to be right. But in order for the lattice to be flat, you will have to make grooves at the connection points, and, given the thickness of the rail and the manual manufacturing method, it will definitely not be easy to do everything.

Another type is the screen-blinds. Such a screen resembles classic wooden shutters-blinds on windows. In order for the slats in the frame to be at the same angle to the plane, the same parallel cuts are made on the side posts using a miter box. Since the thickness of the hacksaw blade for wood is less than the thickness of the rail, then two cuts are needed for each of them, and the excess must be removed with a narrow chisel.

Both the beam for the frame and the slats must be dry. Given the proximity of the screen to the battery, it is necessary that their own humidity is not higher than 12% (these are the general requirements for wood intended for carpentry). There is a simple home method for checking - if you try to tie thin chips into a knot, then it should break.

In the manufacture of both types of screen, each rail must be carefully sanded before attaching to the frame. After they are fixed in place, the grating is primed, coated in two layers with varnish, paint or enamel.

As a decorative finish, trims made of wood or MDF can be fixed around the perimeter of the frame. If these are wooden platbands, then they must be processed in the same way as the grate, but their finish does not have to be the same - the perimeter may be of a different shade.

When the battery is in a niche, the screen can either completely cover it, or hang on hooks, leaving small gaps at the top, bottom and sides.

When attaching the screen to the box, the side surfaces are sheathed with laminated fiberboard or chipboard. The ends of the skin may not be trimmed with a decorative edge if the screen trim covers them.

Another common type of wooden screen is the use of plywood as a panel. With the ability to work with a jigsaw, you can cut out an openwork lattice with any pattern transferred to the plywood surface using a stencil. The finishing treatment of such a panel does not differ from the lattice: grinding, priming and painting.

Important! When choosing chipboard or plywood for the screen, you need to pay attention to their class. For plywood, it should be E1, for chipboard - E0.

DIY metal screen

As a panel for the screen, you can use a metal perforated sheet or perforated mesh. There are ready-made expanded metal meshes with anti-corrosion treatment (for steel) and enamel decorative coating. Such a mesh can be fixed on a wooden frame and used in the structures described above.

But metal has a serious advantage over wood - a high coefficient of thermal conductivity. This property allows you to make screens that rely directly on the battery. They even increase its heat transfer by increasing the surface area. Moreover, a battery with such a screen works better not only for radiation, but also for convection - just look at the ribbed heating elements of convectors.

For the frame, it is better to choose an aluminum corner, and for the screen panel, an aluminum sheet or perforated mesh. It is easier to work with them, and the thermal conductivity of aluminum is almost 5 times higher than that of steel.

To make a hinged metal screen is quite simple:

1. Take two corners with a length equal to the sum of the height of the screen and the depth of the battery.
2. Along the fold line on one of the walls of each corner, two opposite cuts are made with a total angle of 90 ° (45 ° for each relative to the edge of the corner). Moreover, the cuts must be made so that the uncut walls of the corners look at each other.
3. Bend the corners in the shape of the letter G.
4. Prepare a blank for the screen from a perforated sheet or perforated mesh. Its length is equal to the total length of the L-shaped corner.
5. Three corners are made with a size equal to the width of the screen.
6. The screen blank is bent and fastened to the L-shaped corners using screws and nuts with washers (in specially drilled holes in the corners). It is better to drill holes in place - so that they fall into the perforation of the sheet or into the mesh cell.
7. On the inside of the mesh, three corners are fixed in the corner and along the edges, which act as stiffeners.
8. Paint the outer part of the L-shaped corners.

In order for such a screen to be in a stable position, a pair of dowels with straight hooks can be fixed in the wall, and holes can be drilled in the short parts of the L-shaped corners.

glass screen

If wooden screens are well suited for traditional and rustic styles, and metal ones for industrial ones, then glass ones look great in modern interiors, such as: hi-tech, minimalism, fusion, pop art. It all depends on the decorative glass processing.

In principle, a self-adhesive film with large format printing can be ordered for the glass screen. And you can make a pattern on a matte or transparent surface using sandblasting or chemical glass etching paste.

If you don’t want to bother with decorative processing, then there are glasses with a matte surface or colored in mass on sale - you just need to order the right size, and you can process the edge yourself. The only condition is that the glass must be tempered.

The easiest way to mount the screen is to point-fix the glass to the wall in four places. To do this, use special fittings with remote mounting.

But there is one drawback - it is necessary to drill holes in tempered glass, and this is difficult to do at home.

Therefore, it is better to use cold-rolled thin-walled pipe as the supporting structure of the screen. She (and fastenings for her and glass) are sold in stores selling everything necessary for making furniture. As a rule, such pipes and fittings are made chrome-plated, but you can order them to be painted in any shade from the RAL palette. Screen stands are fixed to the floor.

As an additional stop for the racks, two remote adjustable closed-type mounts (with a cap for the pipe) can be fixed to the wall. Glass is fixed between the racks on the clamps.

Heating radiators play an important role in the apartment. It depends on them how comfortable it will be indoors in cold weather. But there is one problem - sometimes they look so unsightly that they spoil the overall look of the room. Special devices - screens - will help to solve this problem. You can buy them at the store or make your own. How to make a screen for a battery with your own hands? Are there any peculiarities and nuances of this process?

What is the screen for?

Why install a radiator screen? There are three reasons:

1. They perform a decorative function. An unsightly place in a room can instantly be transformed thanks to an original designed screen.
2. Protect from contact with hot metal. This is especially true for families with small children.
3. Facilitate maintenance of the radiator itself.

Varieties of devices

All existing screens are divided into several types. The basis for the separation is the design of the product and the material used for their manufacture.

According to the type of design, screens are divided into 3 types:

1. Lattices. Used to close the radiator in a niche.
2. Mounted. They can be with or without a lid.
3. Attached. Can be installed on the floor, while closing the entire heating battery.

According to the materials used, the screens are also divided into several types:

1. Plastic. They are cheaper than others. Differ in practicality. A significant drawback is the release of harmful substances during strong heating.
2. From MDF or fiberboard. These materials are the easiest to process. Allows you to make a protective grill quickly and easily.
3. Metal. Can be solid steel or forged.
4. Wooden. It is desirable that high-quality wood is used. Cheap material will deteriorate quickly.
5. Glass. This material allows you to make original and unusual screens.

Of all the listed types, the most popular are wooden, metal and decorative screens in the form of a box.

Hardware

In most cases, they are made of thin steel. Painted with a special powder. They have the most unpretentious design and low price. Slightly more expensive are stainless steel products. Thanks to the application of perforation, they can become a real decoration of the interior.

Advantages of metal screens:

1. They do not need to be painted or repaired.
2. Excellent heat transfer.
3. Absolutely safe for others.
4. Installation is simple.
5. Do not change shape when heated.
6. To clean, simply rinse under running water.

wooden models

They are considered the most attractive and environmentally friendly. Most often made to order. Such structures are much more expensive than metal ones. The price depends on the model and type of wood.

Don't skimp on this type of product. Cheap wood and violations of manufacturing technology significantly reduce the service life.

Wooden screens will harmoniously look indoors in country or classic style. They can be carved or have a wicker lattice.

box

Usually installed on the floor. They have a more complex structure. Completely hide the radiator, allowing you to give an attractive look to a niche or space under the window. Such products can be decorated with decorative elements, such as legs, plinths or figurines.

A Few Rules

Before you make a screen for a heating battery with your own hands, you need to get acquainted with some of the nuances:

1. A protective grill or panel will reduce the level of heat transfer from the heater. It will be at least 5%. The fewer holes in the product, the greater this indicator.
2. The screen must not obstruct the movement of air.
3. Foil material placed behind the radiator will help to increase heat transfer. Another option is to paint the inside of the screen with black paint.
4. The product should be easily dismantled and disassembled into parts.

Manufacturing example

How to make a decorative grille for the radiator yourself, you can consider using the example of a fiberboard product.

First you need to prepare tools and materials:

1. Fiberboard sheet. It is important that the color matches perfectly with the rest of the interior details.
2. Lattice or mesh for the manufacture of side panels or front.
3. A foil or metal sheet that will act as a reflector.
4. Screws and staples.
5. Joiner's glue.
6. Nails.

The whole process consists of 3 main steps:

• markings;
• parts manufacturing;
• installation.

markup

This stage involves the implementation of basic measurements and marking of the fiberboard sheet:

1. First of all, two sides of the radiator are measured. 10 cm is added to the width, and 5 cm to the height. These dimensions will be needed to make the front part of the screen.
2. Now you need to measure the depth. Add 2.5 cm to the result obtained. The width of the side slats is obtained.
3. It remains to measure the cover. It is important that it be 1.2-1.5 cm larger than the side planks.

pruning

Now you need to do all the listed details. To make the front profile, you need to cut out several blanks 11 cm wide. In those places where they will be attached to each other, use a hacksaw to make an angle of 45 °.

Assembly

So, all the parts are assembled. You can start the assembly and installation process:

1. First, the facade window is drawn up. It needs a mesh. You can cut it with a hacksaw.
2. To finish each face, a fiberboard profile is used. It should be placed around the perimeter on the inside of each front corner. The side strips are formed in a similar way.
3. Making a frame is one of the main stages of work. It must be strong and stable. On the sides it is necessary to cut holes for pipes.
4. It is recommended to install a metal or foil sheet on the back wall. It will reflect heat.
5. You can fix the screen in several ways. One of them is the frame, which was mentioned above. The second way to fix the structure is anchor collets. It involves the purchase of expensive additional elements. And finally, the third way is the legs. They can be regular or adjustable. The legs are attached to the bottom of the screen.

The screen for the heating radiator performs several functions at once. One of them (probably the most important) is protection against contact with hot metal. In addition, this element can be an interior decoration. It can be purchased in specialized stores, or you can do it yourself.

The desire to cover the heating radiator with something is quite natural: even modern aluminum radiators do not please the eye even with their monotony. Exclusive products, made to order for the design of the room ... understandable, understandable, you can not continue. It is easier to make a battery screen with your own hands, especially since this work is not expensive or difficult.

However, the purpose of the heating battery is to heat the room. It is intuitively clear that the battery behind the screen or in the box will heat up worse, and you need to pay for heat as before, if there is no counter. That is why many who wish do not ennoble batteries, putting up with sometimes ugly pieces of iron in plain sight.

Intuition often fails. It is quite possible to make a screen for a radiator, not only not worsening heating, but also improving it, on your own. You just need to know how a heating radiator works, and even something from thermal physics.

How does he warm up?

The transfer of heat from the battery to the room is carried out due to the flow of heated air - convection - and by radiating in the infrared (IR) range of electromagnetic radiation. The ratio of radiation and convection varies depending on the temperature of the hot water in the system, external conditions and the design of the radiator.

"Harmonic"

The old "cast iron" in autumn or mild winter warms mainly due to convection. With intensive heating (radiator temperature +50 degrees or more), infrared radiation gives a significant proportion of the heat flow into the room. Nowadays, in some regions, this situation seems abstract and fantastic, but people of the older and middle generations remember how it was impossible to touch the batteries in a harsh winter.

profiled aluminum

Modern radiators operate in much the same way, but they are able to adapt to external conditions to some extent. If the air circulation in the channels is hindered by something (for example, a curtain), the heat flow in the metal mass is redistributed towards the front flat panels, and the radiator switches to heat radiation mode. This is achieved by precise numerical simulation of the radiator on powerful computers.

From this it is clear: the radiator screen must provide not only air circulation, but also the transmission of infrared radiation to the outside. This is achieved in two ways, see the next section.

According to convection, the conclusion is simple: the front panel of the correct screen should not be deaf or with rare small holes. A good screen is a battery grille, fairly sparse and with plenty of space above the heatsink (see picture on the right). But to ensure heat transfer that is not inferior to the regular one in free space, this is not enough.

Design and physics

Recall from school: the best way to emit and absorb radiation is a completely black body. The outer screen must absorb the IR from the battery and then radiate it into the room. To do this, it, firstly, must have good thermal conductivity so that the absorbed IR does not return back. Secondly, the darker it is, the better. How to decorate the battery from the outside is primarily a matter of taste; but the underside of the screen in any case should be painted black.

Let's explain with an example: Let's say the screen is black; IR absorption coefficient k = 0.8. It absorbs radiation on one side and radiates on both sides. The thermal conductivity of the screen material is also not infinite. The back radiation will additionally heat up the battery, it will radiate more strongly. The exact calculation is quite complicated, requiring knowledge of advanced mathematics, but the end result is simple: 1 divided by the square root of 2 is multiplied by the square of k. That is, 0.707x0.64 = 0.453 of the regular IR flow will go into the room.

This is already less than what an aluminum radiator with profiled channels will “pull out” with worse convection. With a bright screen, the heat transfer to the room will worsen even more. Where does the unused heat go? It goes into the return pipe, but you still pay for it. Can the matter be corrected? Yes, you can. First of all - additional thermal shielding from the wall.

Heat shield reflector

From the above, it is clear that a heat-reflecting screen should be applied to the wall behind the battery, only not black, but shiny. It will re-reflect the IR from the rear surface of the radiator back, it will still heat up, the total IR flux to the external decorative screen will increase, and it will go into the room, with a bright outer surface of the decorative screen, more than 0.5 of the regular IR flux. This is already enough for a good profiled aluminum radiator to work more or less normally in convection, with some minor additions, see below.

But a sheet of metal will not be enough. Even polished aluminum will weaken the IR flux to the wall by 5-6 times, no more. It is necessary to lay a heat-insulating mat made of synthetic winterizer or any other fibrous polymer coated on both sides with aluminum. It will weaken the IR flux to the wall by at least 40 times. The synthetic winterizer has the advantage that already with a thickness of 5 mm it practically does not conduct heat and reflects IR well.

Mats from other materials will have to be taken at least 3 cm thick, and mineral wool in residential premises cannot be used in the open at all: it is harmful to health. Aluminized foam is no worse than synthetic winterizer, but it does not bend and it is difficult to put it behind the battery without removing it.

Do's and Don'ts

Based on the above, we will first of all analyze the characteristic errors in the manufacture of screens for heating radiators. The figure on the left shows a very poor design.

First, the meager vents virtually eliminate normal convection. Secondly, in the “bosom” above them, a pillow of heated air is formed at the top, which further hinders normal convection heat transfer. Such a radiator actually works only due to radiation. The casing, apparently, is metal, but even if it is blackened from the inside in a special way, all the same, we can safely say that the owners of at least 25% of heating costs are sent back. Knowing the rates, you can estimate the money yourself.

In addition, the additional functionality of such a screen is zero: a box sticks out of the wall, and that's it. And designer attempts are completely nullified by an ugly pipe in plain sight: an attempt to cover the battery only emphasizes its ugliness.

In the figure on the right, the design is acceptable, but still imperfect. In terms of design, functionality is all right: the tree looks good, and the result is a rather elegant shelf, decorated, I must say, tastefully.

But the crate is too frequent: the width of its planks is greater than the gaps between them. With any additional measures to improve heat transfer, at least 5-7% of heat costs also go into the return line, which in monetary terms over the winter will be quite a lot.

Video: beautiful but ineffective screen

Optimal do-it-yourself screen

Material

Before we get down to business, let's think carefully: how to close the battery? Both the speed and ease of operation, as well as the thermal efficiency of the radiator in the screen, depend on this.

• Plastic is definitely not good. Expensive, poorly conducts heat, to give it an aesthetic appearance, oddly enough at first glance, at home is more difficult than metal. And most importantly, from uneven heating, the plastic will warp over time, or even stain.
• Metal is inexpensive and an excellent conductor of heat. But to make a beautiful metal product at home, you need solid working skills and a fairly extensive set of tools.
• Wood is aesthetically pleasing, environmentally friendly, easy to work with. But it conducts heat poorly, and it is impossible to significantly improve its thermal conductivity. However, a properly made (see below) wooden radiator screen is quite effective.
• Drywall - at first glance, it does not fit, and not so much in terms of thermal conductivity. From uneven heating, drywall dries up and begins to peel off, dust, crack. But with a little work, drywall can be improved in every way and made into a great screen.

Drywall preparation

To sew up the battery with drywall, it should be prepared. First of all, with a special needle roller for drywall (see fig.), we roll the wrong side of the cut blanks. It is not necessary to buy a roller, you can rent it. The deposit is small, the tool rarely breaks, wears out weakly, so the rent is low, and the work is half an hour or an hour. Then we impregnate the blanks twice on each side with an aqueous PVA emulsion. It is inexpensive and will require 2-3 liters.

Purpose of the procedure:

1. Impregnation with a polymer emulsion improves thermal conductivity.
2. Puncture holes create thermal bridges from the inside to the outside.
3. Drywall impregnated with a polymer emulsion does not dry out.
4. Paint adheres well to impregnated drywall, giving an even layer.
5. Cutting the drywall treated in this way with an electric or manual jigsaw is clean; after additional processing with sandpaper and painting, the product, which came out of skillful hands, looks no worse than a plastic factory one.

Now you can start making the screen.

Video: drywall work

Design

A section of the screen with a heating radiator, which provides heat transfer that is not inferior to the initial heat transfer, is shown in the figure. In addition to the above, there are two highlights in the design: an aerodynamic visor and a warm air injector. They are made of tin, galvanized, or even cardboard. In the latter case, the inside of the visor must be pasted over with aluminum foil (a baking sleeve is suitable).

The visor is necessary not only for the old "cast iron". For aluminum radiators, it is even more necessary. Without it, in the corner under the window sill, or the upper shelf of the screen-box, the warm air cushion described above is formed, which can completely block the convection. The aluminized surface of the visor facing the radiator re-reflects a certain amount of IR to the outside. In terms of money, the bill goes to kopecks, but during the heating season, these kopecks are snapped up a lot.

The injector sucks in warm air from the front side of the radiator. Please note that its output is made with some narrowing. At "low throttle" the injector practically does not work, but with increased heating, the thrust increases and warm air "knocks down" from above. Literally, if you check with smoke.

In which heating radiators will fit organically. The question becomes how to hide them from sight. Making a decorative screen for a heating battery with your own hands is simple, but you need to take into account a number of rules so that the screen does not spoil the heating efficiency.

What should be the screen for the battery

Radiators give off heat to the environment by radiating thermal energy and direct heat exchange with air, which is facilitated by active air convection in the room. The screen for the radiator, ideally, should not affect the efficiency of heat transfer at all. When choosing a suitable design, the negative effect on heat transfer should be kept to a minimum.

Based on this requirement, we can state a number of rules that must be taken into account in the manufacture:

1. The presence of a ventilation gap at the bottom along the width of the radiator for air access to the surface of the radiator of at least 7 cm.
2. The presence of a ventilation gap at the top along the width of the radiator of at least 10 cm for the release of warm air.
3. The distance from the extreme part of the radiator to the front panel of the screen is at least 5 cm.
4. At least 50% of the front of the screen is gaps. For any chosen lattice, more than half of the area is made up of through holes.
5. The entire inner surface is painted black.
6. A heat-reflecting screen is mounted on the wall behind the heating radiator.
7. The design is removable, at least the front panel, for access to the radiator.

If there are thermostats on a siphon-type radiator, they should not close even partially, valve isolation is allowed, but the siphon should be outside the screen.

If these simple rules are not observed, the heat from the radiator will accumulate under the screen and, most likely, will fall back into the coolant, go into the return line. The power of the radiator will decrease, because it directly depends on the temperature difference between the coolant and the air in the room, as a result, less heat will enter the apartment.

Design

The screen for the radiator can have several versions, depending on the location of the radiator and the design of the niche in which it is installed.

One-piece screen-box. For a radiator located on the wall without sinking into a niche or strongly exposed from it inside the room.

Overhead screen from only one front panel, if the radiator is recessed completely beyond the border of the niche under the window and window sill.

Plasterboard false wall with grating opposite the radiator.

In the first case, the most versatile option is obtained. If you understand how it works, you can reproduce any other option required in a particular situation. A frame is assembled along a frame of wooden bars or a metal profile of the smallest cross-section, which is subsequently sheathed with decorative panels and a lattice in the front.

Slots are made in the side walls for pipes to fit the radiator, or the screen expands enough to completely hide the pipe outlets, if they were originally laid inside the walls. Fastening is carried out to the wall behind the battery, for which hanging loops on the screen and a bracket on the wall are used.

The required clearance from above can be hidden from view by placing an additional shelf made of laminated MDF sheet above it. It should be separated from the screen by the width of the gap itself, that is, at least 7 cm. This is quite enough to visually hide the radiator. The shelf will be a nice and useful addition to the decor of the battery.

Separately, it is necessary to specify the features of screens mounted in drywall false walls. It is not enough just to place the grille opposite the radiator. It is necessary to limit the space around the radiator from the rest of the space behind the false wall. For example, by wrapping the edges of a heat-reflecting screen made of metallized polyethylene foam, fix them on the back of the drywall. Ventilation gaps are necessarily formed along the upper and lower parts of the grille, respectively, above and below the radiator, which are trimmed with plastic trim from PVC panels.

DIY screen

In a simple case, this is a frame made of wooden beams 20x25 mm in the required size in order to cover the entire radiator, taking into account all the indents. Racks are attached to this frame to the entire depth of the screen so as to reach the wall behind the radiator, and at the same time, the front edge must be separated from the radiator by the distance required by the rules.

• laminated MDF 8 mm;
• polyurethane plate 2-6 mm;
• PVC panels;
• plexiglass 2-6 mm;
• perforated metal sheet, galvanized 0.5-1.5 mm.

Plywood is not suitable for this, as it will exfoliate quickly enough.

Using MDF or polymeric materials that are difficult to deform, it is enough to fasten the sidewalls and the front frame with a hole for the grate in the center using corners and self-tapping screws. Thus, even a bar is not needed.

Slots for pipes are made in such a way that the edge of the screen material is 5-7 mm away from the heated surface.

The front decorative frame for the lattice is formed from four strips of the selected material. It is better to join them with straight joints, when horizontal elements are placed on the side close to the vertical ones. It will be aesthetically pleasing if the horizontal elements are drowned in relation to the side ones by one millimeter.

On the front panel, you need a grill of any suitable material that will hide the radiator from view and at the same time leave a sufficient amount of gaps:

• rattan panel;
• sewing with wooden lamellas;
• woven mesh;
• perforated metal sheet;
• finished decorative grilles.

The selected material is attached to the frame with a construction stapler and staples or screws.

According to the rules, it is better to paint the inner surface of the screen in black or any other dark tone. The easiest way to do this is after assembly with a brush or an aerosol can of paint. The main thing is to protect the front with masking tape.

As a support for the screen, L-shaped mounts with plastic dowels or anchors of the same shape are used, which should be fixed on the wall behind the battery. Along the upper edge of the side walls of the screen, it is enough to make vertical holes in a bar extending from the common frame, or to fix a corner that will be put on fasteners with one of its shelves.

Before putting the assembled structure in place, it is necessary to fix the heat-reflecting screen behind the battery. For this, "Penofol", foamed polyethylene, metallized on one side, is suitable. Its size corresponds to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe closed space. A heat-reflecting screen is attached with a stapler and staples or silicone, liquid nails.

Any fittings or, moreover, refinements in the design of the screen are made based on the visual effect in compliance with the rules specified at the very beginning. It looks good when the screen turns out to be flush with or slightly deeper than the edge of the window sill or slightly protrudes beyond the niche under the window.

To hide the fins of the radiators, a screen is installed on them. This design makes the room complete, but becomes to some extent a barrier to warm air. There are several ways to install a protective screen, using which you can make any room more beautiful and comfortable.

Screen installation rules

• there should be as many holes as possible in the protective screen on the battery so that warm air can freely escape;
• reflective material (foil or isolon) is attached to the wall on the back of the battery.

Ideally, you need to install the screen on the battery with your own hands so that it can be easily removed. This will allow you to wipe the dust, and in case of problems with heating, quickly solve them. The screen should be located at some distance from the radiator (2-3 cm) so that air circulates freely. Materials are used only withstanding prolonged heating. They should not melt, spread an unpleasant odor, harmful fumes.

Material selection

The screen on the battery is made of plastic, metal and wood materials. You can also find exclusive glass gratings on sale, but it’s unlikely that you can build one with your own hands. The most affordable in the case of self-manufacturing is plywood or chipboard. They also use laminated chipboard (LDSP), MDF. It is useful to analyze each material separately.

It is undesirable to use plastic as a screen in a room where people are constantly present. When heated, it releases toxic fumes. Over time, it can warp if it is incorrectly selected, or change color, become covered with spots, stains.

Metal is the strongest and most durable material. Lattices are made of thin sheet steel and painted with paint for metal. It is better to do this with a spray gun so that the paint lies evenly, without streaks. This manufacturing method is suitable for those who know how to work with welding, bending, cutting, drilling metal.

Solid wood is rarely used. But still, skilled craftsmen can make planks out of it, connecting them into an elegant screen. Wooden planks should be located at some distance from each other, you can overlap them, but only at an angle so that there are gaps. Do not forget that wood isolates heat well and can interfere with heat transfer from the surface of radiators.

MDF is easy to process and environmentally friendly. From it it is not difficult to make a screen on the battery with your own hands. The same can be said for plywood.

Often, a screen is assembled from inexpensive chipboard panels of class E1 (the safest). In this case, the edge of the parts is trimmed with adhesive edging tape, heated with an iron.

The filling of the frame can be wicker rattan, perforated wood board, various types of mesh. Screens are assembled from thin slats and figured or straight balusters.

Device and mount

To understand how the screen is attached to the battery, you need to remember the following. Heating radiators are made recessed into the wall or protruding. In the second option, in modern apartments and houses, a plasterboard crate is used, leveling the walls and hiding everything superfluous, including batteries. But if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is already small, it is not advisable to hide it with a frame structure.

Thus, depending on the location of the batteries relative to the walls, there are several options for the device and screen mounting:

• flat grill if the battery is in a niche;
• installation of the frame on the floor on legs;
• hanging on corners or hooks (removable hinged option);
• holding with pipes and additional fastening.

The front panel is easiest to do on latches. Then, with one movement of the hand, it can be put on and taken off. Another option is self-tapping screws.

Necessary accessories for work

To make a screen from chipboard, you will need a hacksaw or a jigsaw, a pencil and a tape measure, a metal corner and a screw, a drill, a screwdriver. Corners are used the same as for shelves or wall cabinets. They can be purchased at any furniture or hardware store. Anchor bolts are also used for hanging the frame or dowels with hooks. It is very convenient to hang the screen frame on hooks.

There are several options for making the front panel. The easiest of them is to buy a finished decorative perforated panel. Lattices come in standard sizes and to order. Patterns also differ, so there is always an opportunity to purchase the most acceptable item. In case of color mismatch, it is easy to paint.

Note! If you have the skills to work with a jigsaw, then you can cut the decorative panel yourself from a plywood sheet.

You can assemble the frame and fix the side, front and top walls on it (there is no need for the bottom). Or twist all the elements directly to each other without a frame structure.

Sequence of work

The first step is to take measurements. Using a tape measure or centimeter, they measure the battery, make a drawing on a piece of paper with notes - the length, width and depth of the screen. Depth is the distance from the wall to the location of the front panel. The design should not stand close to the battery, so leave small indents of 1-2 cm.

In accordance with the measurements, the elements of the box or screen frame are cut out. Holes for the exit of heated air can be made in the upper part and even in the sidewalls, which will improve heat transfer.

Note! You can connect the parts with self-tapping screws, corners or glue - as you like.

Then you need to attach the screen to the wall and outline where the holes for the dowels with hooks for hanging (or corners with screws) will be drilled. On the sidewalls of the frame, the locations of the pipes are also marked in order to cut out the excess.

After installing the hanging elements, hang the screen and attach the front panel. Sometimes slats are glued or nailed around the perimeter with decorative nails. This creates a nice frame.

And further! We must not forget to stick the reflective foil on the wall behind the battery. Its size is selected so that the ends do not peek out from behind the screen.

If you don’t like the color of the material from which the screen is made, then you can paste over it with self-adhesive wallpaper or paint it.

How to make a braided screen

An interesting option is to weave a screen with your own hands from a furniture edge. Such an edge is a dense tape. It is used for finishing the ends of furniture, protection against wetting, delamination. To determine the length of the material, it is necessary to divide the area to be woven by the width of the tape and multiply the result by 1.3. These are approximate calculations, but given that the edge is inexpensive, you can take it with a margin.

The screen body will be made of laminated chipboard sidewalls, fastened with corners. The edges must be pasted over with the same tape from which the lattice is woven.

Attach the woven screen to the sidewalls with a stapler or decorative nails 8 mm. Small nails are easy to hold with surgical tweezers. At first, they are not completely clogged in order to pull them out with pliers if necessary and trim the position.

The tape is woven either in rhombuses (squares) of the same width or in a fan pattern. Weaving options can be invented independently, if there is a fantasy. But even the simplest criss-cross weave looks very good.

Note! To make the woven screen tough, it is heated with an iron at 150℃ from the front side.

This softens the glue, and the tapes are firmly connected to each other. The rest of the tape is cut off with a sharp knife, the protruding corners are sanded with sandpaper.

The screen is easy to hang on metal corners, which have holes for screws. These screws are threaded through pre-drilled holes in the frame and tightened. Instead of holes, a sample is also made. The screw gets into it even easier than into the hole, clamping, securely fixes the screen. A drill is required to drill the wall and fix the corner.

Since there is always a thin pipe on one side of the battery, the frame can be easily fixed on it. To do this, you need to make a sample of chipboard according to the size of the pipe or a little more. The exact position of the sample will be shown by measurements and location relative to the wall. The same mount can be arranged below. The result is a beautiful screen that will be difficult to distinguish from the purchased one. And for the price it will cost three times cheaper.