How to hem the ceiling with clapboard. Finishing the ceiling with clapboard: wooden and plastic. Types of frame for the ceiling

Lining is a finishing material that is widely used in construction. Lining the ceiling with clapboard is often used in the decoration of country houses and baths. This finishing material has been known for many years. The ceiling made of wooden lining looks attractive, it is easy to breathe with it. Lining is also used for exterior decoration of buildings. The edges of this product have a special groove for fastening. The connection is reliable, durable and protects the structure from the penetration of excess moisture.

Before you begin to sheathe the ceiling with a clapboard, the material must be treated with an antiseptic, and then varnished or painted.

Types and some characteristics of lining

There are different types of lining. The most common ones are wood and plastic. Plastic lining when carrying out wall and ceiling cladding is used very often. It is made in the form of separate rails, which have some advantages over other finishing materials:

1. Has excellent decorative qualities and attractive appearance.
2. Does not require any additional processing after installation.
3. Attaches to the surface very easily and simply.
4. Well hides all the errors of the base surface.
5. The material does not corrode, does not rot.
6. Its cost is much lower than the price of wooden lining.
7. When installing plastic panels, you can perform additional sound insulation and insulation of the room.

Features of wooden lining:

1. It is an environmentally friendly natural material.
2. Installation is more complicated compared to the plastic counterpart.
3. It has higher thermal insulation properties than plastic material.
4. It has a fairly high durability.
5. The surface of the ceiling, lined with wooden clapboard, requires special care.
6. Has a beautiful appearance.
7. Lining the ceiling with clapboard allows you to install additional thermal protection and sound insulation.
8. It costs much more than plastic products.
9. An excellent material for interior decoration of dry rooms.

Tools for the job

To finish the ceiling with a clapboard with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools:

• perforator or drill;
• screwdriver;
• a hammer;
• construction square;
• level;
• rule;
• roulette;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• hacksaw with fine teeth;
• bars for lathing with a thickness of 20 mm or more (these can be wooden slats or metal profiles UD and CD);
• dowels and self-tapping screws for fastening the elements of the crate;
• crabs (cross-shaped fasteners for metal profiles).

ceiling lining process

The lining of the ceiling with clapboard should be done without haste, since the marriage made in the work cannot always be corrected. The procedure is something like this:

1. The marking of the crate begins with the identification of the lowest corner of the room. At this point, a distance equal to the sum of the thickness of the beam or profile and the thickness of the lining is measured from the corner down. There is a mark on the wall.
2. The mark is transferred using a water or laser level to all walls of the room.
3. All marks are connected by fishing line or nylon thread. A line around the perimeter of the room is beaten off on the walls along it.
4. If wooden slats are used for the construction of the crate, they must be pre-treated to protect against mold and fungus with an antiseptic.
5. The elements of the crate are attached to the wooden ceiling with self-tapping screws. The distance between the bars is no more than 50 cm.
6. The crate is attached to the concrete surface with dowels, for which it is necessary to drill the appropriate holes.
7. First, the extreme rails are attached, then the rest. The beam closest to the wall is fixed 10 cm from it. With the help of wooden, plywood or other spacers, the slats are aligned to obtain a strictly horizontal surface. This is checked with a fishing line stretched between the extreme bars of the crate.
8. Mounted wiring for lighting fixtures.
9. The initial lining panel is attached to the crate with a gap of 5-7 mm from the wall.
10. Next, install the following strips, firmly inserting them into the locks of the previous ones. Sometimes you have to knock them out with light blows with a rubber mallet. Fastening is done using small screws, nails. In a wooden lining, it is recommended to pre-drill holes so that the panel does not split.
11. For the installation of lighting fixtures, appropriate holes are cut out with a sharp knife, a jigsaw, and special drilling crowns. When cutting holes in a plastic lining, it is recommended to heat the knife.
12. The last strip most often has to be adjusted to size, cutting it along with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.
13. The lining of the ceiling with clapboard is finished. It remains to install a ceiling plinth, which will close the gap between the wall and the cladding material and give the ceiling surface a finished look.

The modern market offers a huge number of different materials for finishing the ceiling. Some people prefer stretch ceilings, while others build suspended plasterboard structures. However, today we will talk about lining - how to choose a material suitable for the ceiling, how to build a crate and how to install it. Lining the ceiling with clapboard is a very laborious task, so you must approach the issue with all responsibility.

Features of choosing lining for the ceiling

Once upon a time, clapboard was understood as an exclusively wooden version of this material, but on the modern market you can already find several variations at once. When choosing one or another type of material, personal wishes, financial capabilities, goals and features of the room itself should be taken into account.

Modern lining is made from:

• wood;
• polyvinyl chloride (PVC);
• pressed hardboard (MDF).

Let's take a closer look at each of the varieties.

Wooden lining

Obviously, it will perfectly emphasize the "natural" design of the room. Such a lining is absolutely safe and can be used in any room, and the cost of the material depends on the specific type of wood used in the manufacture. As a rule, alder, cedar, aspen, fir, oak, larch, etc. are used for these purposes.

Pine boards are characterized by excellent antiseptic characteristics, which is explained by the exuded resins, which give the material similar properties. These resins protect the wood surface from mold and mildew. Another advantage can be called the fact that pine by its nature has few knots, and this, in turn, was reflected in the quality of workmanship.

Note! Hardwood is an option that is more suitable for indoor use, while softwood lining is versatile. However, any lining is susceptible to high humidity, so you must take care of the appropriate impregnation and regular ventilation.

Another wooden lining is classified according to the quality of the board into four groups. Let's consider them.

Prices for lining

Table. Classification of lining according to the quality of the board.

Video - Features of the choice of lining

Lining from MDF

It looks similar to its wooden counterpart, but is produced using a completely different technology (we are talking about pressing wood chips). The main disadvantage of such lining is the fear of moisture: upon contact with it, the material swells, loses its original properties and appearance.

This finishing option is more suitable for walls, although it is often used to simulate columns in a house. The advantages include good noise and thermal insulation characteristics.

Note! On sale there is MDF lining of various colors and textures, but the important thing is that they can be easily combined. Finally, the installation procedure is also not difficult.

PVC lining

A good finishing material that is ideal for the ceiling. Easy to install, but at the same time quite fragile (this must be remembered if you plan to sheathe walls with boards). Therefore, PVC lining cannot be used where there is a high probability of its deformation or damage.

Such lining can be:

• seamless;
• with seam.

In the first case, the material forms an integral and smooth surface, and the seams between the panels are almost invisible. If you use a lining with a highlighted seam, then it will look like eurolining on the ceiling. Another advantage of PVC panels is that they are immune to moisture, but they can fade under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.

PVC lining prices

PVC lining

Note! It turns out that the ceiling can be sheathed with both wooden clapboard and plastic (polyvinyl chloride) panels.

We calculate the amount of material

To calculate the required number of lining, you need to know what the dimensions of this sheathing material are. In accordance with GOST, the standard width of one board should be up to 15 cm, length - 600 cm, and thickness - from 1.2 cm to 2.5 cm.

GOST 8242-88. Details profile from wood and wood materials for construction. Download file.

Panels with a thickness of less than 1.6 cm are used for interior decoration, and lining with a thickness of 1.8 cm or more is used for external work. If you know the dimensions of the boards, you can determine their square. Let's say the width of the lining is 9.5 cm, and the length is 600 cm. In this case, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bone panel will be 0.57 m².

To calculate the required amount of material, divide the area of ​​​​the ceiling by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone board. For example, the ceiling area is 9 m². In this case, the calculations will look like this:

9 m²: 0.52 m² = 17.3

It turns out that you will need at least 18 panels. But at the same time, remember that during installation, the width of each board will be slightly less than the total - this is due to the nuances of the tongue-and-groove fastening of the material.

Ceiling panel prices

ceiling panels

Checking purchased panels

So, you have chosen the type and color of lining, calculated its quantity. Purchased and delivered home. What to do next? Now you need to lay out the panels on some flat surface and carefully examine them. The fact is that sellers often put several low-quality copies inside the package. But this point is better to check directly in the store.

Next, you need to pay attention to drying the lining (this applies only to wooden panels). MDF and PVC products do not require this procedure. Drying is necessary so that the boards do not deform. The procedure should last at least 14 days, but more is possible. In no case should this rule be neglected.

Stage number 1. We prepare everything you need

Work should begin with the preparation of the necessary equipment; for lining the ceiling with clapboard you will need:

• drill or puncher (for a concrete ceiling, the diameter of the drill should be at least 6-7 mm);
• building level;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• hacksaw or jigsaw (in order to cut panels; tools are suitable for all types of lining).

In addition to the lining itself, the features of the calculation and choice of which were discussed above, other materials will be required. So, for the installation of panels, you will need a frame (crate), which can be of two types.

1. Wooden crate. The best option for the home, because it costs less than a metal profile, and it is much easier to attach panels to it.
2. Metal frame. In most cases, it is used for drywall.

If the ceiling sheathing is planned in the bathroom, then it is better to give preference to a metal frame, since in conditions of high humidity the metal does not deform, which cannot be said about wood.

So, if the frame is wooden, then prepare:

• beam 4x4 cm (according to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling);
• self-tapping screws;
• brackets;
• wedges (made of plastic or wood) for mounting the frame.

If the crate is metal, then you will need:

• metallic profile;
• self-tapping screws;
• fasteners;
• anchors;
• suspension.

After preparing everything you need and drying (if required), the lining can begin to work.

Stage number 2. We prepare the ceiling

Step 1. Remove old plaster, clean the ceiling surface from dirt and dust.

Ceiling profile prices

ceiling profile

Step 2 Draw the markup for the construction of the frame. Determine in advance in which direction the lining will be attached (it is advisable to give preference to the one in which there will be no inter-end joints between the boards).

Note! Due to the fragility of wooden elements, they must be treated with an antiseptic before installation. But this still will not be a guarantee of 100% protection.

Step 3 If we are talking about a private house, then you also have to lay heat-insulating material. Install profile racks in increments of 50-60 cm, and lay insulation between them. As for apartments, there is no need to do this.

Step 4 First, determine the level at which the crate is mounted. Then mark the direction of the bars. The panel must be attached strictly perpendicular to the direction of the timber. It can be mounted vertically, horizontally and diagonally.

Now fasten the brackets at the same distance from each other. Attach a wooden beam to the brackets. To level the level of the crate, use wooden wedges.

The crate is installed very evenly, the lining will be stuffed on it. Otherwise, the coating will turn out to be wavy, ugly.

Step 5 Install fasteners with a maximum step of 50 cm. For eurolining, this figure should be half as much.

Proper preparation is a very important stage of sheathing, on which the durability of the entire structure depends.

Stage number 3. We mount the lining on the crate

The installation procedure is not difficult, it does not require special skills or knowledge. It is recommended to work with an assistant - in this case, boards of any length will be fixed quickly and efficiently.

Step 1. Take the first panel and firmly fix it with a spike to the wall. It is important that the boards are attached perpendicular to the crate.

Step 2 Correct the position of the first panel with a level, then fix it.

Note! The lining can be fastened both to kleimers and to small nails. The last mounting option can be used only for those rooms where the aesthetic component is not particularly important.

Mounting with clamps will cost much more, since you will have to spend money on buying them.

Step 3 Take the second panel, firmly insert it into the grooves of the first and fix it in place of the frame.

Step 4 Attach all other panels in the same way. The last board may need to be cut, so try to keep it against the least visible wall. For wood and MDF panels, it is better to use a jigsaw, and for plastic - a hand saw. Measure holes for communications and lighting fixtures directly during installation - this will help to avoid errors.

Note! If you use nails for fastening, then their caps must be cut with a special tool. In the future, the attachment points must be covered with wax.

Step 5 To decorate the finished ceiling covering, fasten wooden skirting boards around the perimeter - they will perfectly hide the cracks of the trimmed material. You can also paint the ceiling to make it look even prettier. Although it is desirable to cover the wooden lining with varnish, and the baseboards with dark stain and varnish.

Stretch ceiling prices

stretch ceiling

Video - Do-it-yourself clapboard ceiling lining

How much does a wagon cost?

The cost of boards depends on many parameters, including the type and type of wood, the length of the panels, the equipment on which they were made, etc. By price, lining can be divided into three large groups.

1. Expensive. High quality material, for the manufacture of which soft hardwoods are used. As a rule, such panels are processed according to European standards. The cost usually starts from 310 rubles per sq. m.
2. Medium. Solid hardwoods, which will cost 215-300 rubles per square meter. m.
3. cheap. We are talking about boards made of coniferous wood. These are in the range of 100-215 rubles per square meter. m.

If you plan to hire a specialist for sheathing, you can calculate the approximate cost of his services. Finishing one square will cost about 150-350 rubles (the specific amount depends on the complexity of the work and the qualifications of the master).

Features of caring for lining

In the case of using a wooden lining for the ceiling, be sure to take additional measures. So, to extend the life of wood, treat with special solutions that prevent rotting, mold and mildew. These include impregnations and primers. When choosing one or another means, look at the color - it should be the same as the color of the final result.

Note! Also, the lining can be impregnated with oil or coated with varnish or paint, as mentioned above. You can choose how to process the ceiling.

To maintain the original appearance of the coating, wipe the dust as often as possible. If the pollution is running, and a soft, damp cloth can no longer cope, then use special treatment products that are commercially available in a large assortment.

Today, such a finishing method as lining the ceiling with clapboard has become widespread. With the help of aesthetic, decorative and beautiful material, it will be easy to transform the space, refresh the room.

What is a lining

Lining for ceiling sheathing is represented by thin boards with a special type of connection, when a protrusion of another element is inserted into the groove of one plank.

A variety of types and qualities of the material makes it suitable for installation in rooms with different operating conditions, and it is easy to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard with your own hands. Panels are made from:

• solid wood;
• MDF boards;
• plastic.

For example, for a bathroom or kitchen, it is preferable to install plastic that is resistant to moisture, is not afraid of fungus, and is easy to wash. Wooden boards or MDF are best used in living rooms.

Types of construction lining

Wooden lining is a natural material (from hardwood or coniferous species), the main quality criteria of which are:

• strength;
• hardness;
• class;
• fire resistance.

Wooden lamellas are divided into several classes:

• extra class or premium. Such boards are characterized by ideal smoothness and the absence of any defects. When finishing ceilings with premium eurolining, you don’t have to adjust the parts to each other;
• class A. There may be minor defects:

- slight roughness in some areas;

- small inclusions of resin on the surface;

- small non-through cracks;

• B-class. This type is characterized by the presence of a significant number of defects. End pieces may have small chips. It is better to sheathe rooms of a country cottage, a balcony or a loggia with these panels;
• Class C- the lowest grade and cheapest category of material. In this case, only rotten boards are prohibited. Ceiling sheathing with clapboard of class C is recommended for basements, attics or utility rooms.

Its benefits include:

• no need to carefully prepare the ceiling space for decoration;
• ease of installation will allow you to hem the ceilings with MDF panels with your own hands;
• ease of care;
• The variety of options for MDF slats allows you to choose the right color or texture that will organically fit into the overall design and style of the room.

MDF lining is made on the basis of the method of pressing wood fiber and further giving the material the desired size and shape.

Among the shortcomings, low performance characteristics can be noted, since over time the surface of such panels begins to crack, acquires a dark shade.

This is no less popular material than natural wood or chipboard. The production of this type of lamellas is based on the extrusion method, in which a viscous PVC mass is squeezed out through special holes.

• from a wooden beam. To do this, two beams are fixed on opposite sides of the room, stepping back 10-15 cm from the wall surface. Fix them with nails or self-tapping screws every 60 cm.

Important! The fastening of the timber should be carried out perpendicular to the location of the lamellas.

The distance between the bars is 60-100 cm if a lining made of wood is installed, and 40-60 cm when it is planned to install plastic panels.

The bottom edges of each beam should be parallel to the floor and be on the same level with other beams. Pulling a nylon thread along the underside of the transverse slats, the remaining bars are attached. To strengthen the structure, jumpers are mounted from a bar of the same size;

• from a metal profile. If such a frame is installed, then first the UD profile is attached to the dowels along the horizontal line. On opposite sides, the CD profile is fixed at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall surface in increments of 60 cm. In this case, the CD profiles will be perpendicular to the UD profile strips and the lining. The profile is fixed to the ceiling on U-shaped suspensions with a distance of 40-60 cm.

Upon completion of the installation of the frame by any of the methods, wires are brought to the locations of the lighting fixtures.

Installation of lining

The first panel is fixed by pressing firmly against the wall. Next, the crest of the next lamella is inserted into the groove of the previous one and reinforced with fasteners at the points of contact between the lining and the frame.

On a note! Holes for lamps are cut out in the process of lining the ceiling with clapboard. Otherwise, damage may remain on it that is difficult to disguise.

Final stage

After making the ceilings from the lining, it is necessary to adjust the lamellas in length and cut down the corner joints. The gaps at the junction of the walls and ceiling are masked with skirting boards. Decorative plugs should match the interior of the room in color, so it is recommended to buy them together with the panels.

This method of decoration is often used in the Provence style. Emphasizing its direction, the lining looks especially original and impressive. Designers advise applying a layer of special paint to the clapboard-trimmed ceilings, giving them the effect of aging.

Gray larch panels are well emphasized, and a colorless varnish will give the coating extra shine and beauty.

If you first study the technology, how to properly sheathe the ceilings with clapboard, then installation will not take you much time and effort. As a result of the work, you will get an original and beautiful ceiling.

Clapboard ceiling decoration video

Clapboard ceilings look simply chic, in a modern style and emphasize the individual design of the room. The characteristic stripes that form as a result of finishing the lining on the ceiling can visually make the room more spacious, and the ceilings are perfectly even.

Recently, lining has become a popular material and is used not only for wall cladding, but also for finishing ceilings. It is easy to work with it and in fact everyone who is not lazy will be able to update their ceiling by decorating it with clapboard.

Types of frame for the ceiling

The first thing everyone should know is that when installing the lining on the ceiling, it is necessary to make a frame. The main task of the frame is to separate the uneven and ugly surface from your future new ceilings. Also, the frame will allow you to bring the ceiling into a single plane and provide the whole structure with good strength.

Helpful information:

The lining on the ceiling is sewn on top of the frame, so in any case you will need a crate, no matter what anyone says. The frame itself is made much easier than the frame for plasterboard ceilings. You can use both and simple wooden slats.

Choosing the material from which to make the frame is very simple. Here everything will depend on the operating conditions and on the wood from which the board itself is made. For rooms where the humidity level is exceeded, it is better to use a metal profile for the frame and. For the kitchen, it is also necessary to use a metal profile, and the finishing material - lining can already be used here.

Types of lining

In any other premises, a frame made of wooden beams will be an excellent solution. It can also be combined with many materials. Secondly, the process of mounting the lining on a wooden frame is much easier than on a frame made of a metal profile.

Clapboard - panel

It imitates an ordinary wooden beam and has a simpler shape. It comes in both wood and plastic.

Eurolining

It has a deeper tongue-and-groove connection and a larger tenon. This technology contributes to better ventilation of the room, drainage of moisture and various fumes. Most often used for facade cladding. For interior decoration, it is used more often than Lining-Calm, since eurolining is much cheaper in cost.

Clapboard - Calm

The material has a perfectly smooth surface, which does not have grooves - recesses on the front of the board. It is used for interior decoration of walls and ceilings.

Clapboard - American

It imitates laying boards with an overlap, as a result of which the junction between the boards is perfectly protected from various natural influences. Often used in outdoor decoration.

Tools and materials

When working with clapboard, and indeed with wood, you need to keep the following set of tools with you so that your clapboard ceilings are impeccable.

• Ordinary hammer.
• Screwdriver, or drill with a chipper.
• and building area.
• Accurate roulette.
• Jigsaw or hacksaw.
• Scissors for metal, if the frame is made of metal profiles.

The materials themselves for the ceilings from the lining must be selected according to the calculations made earlier. A beam for a wooden frame can be used from 20x20 to 50x50 millimeters.

Remember!!! The thicker the beam, the lower the level of your ceilings. The lining will also hold perfectly on a frame made of 20x20 bars.

To mount the beams to the ceiling, you need to purchase plastic dowels that come with screws. The length must be determined based on the thickness of the bars, the lining itself, as well as the length that will be recessed into the concrete floor. The screw should sit perfectly in the slabs, and not hold on to them with the very tip. Usually they take screws marked 8x45 or similar anchors.

If you decide to make a frame from a metal profile, then here the family budget will be devastated much more. Since the number of components of the frame will increase much and you will need additionally:

• Guide profile - UD.
• The profile underlying the frame is CD.
• Mounts "Crab" and "P" - shaped mounts.
• Self-tapping screws for metal.

To mount the lining itself on the frame, you can use a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with a press washer. If the frame is wooden, then ordinary nails can be used.

How to attach a wooden frame

The first step is to mark the future ceiling from the lining. To do this, you need to find the lowest point on your ceiling from which to measure down the wall by 6-10 centimeters and put the first mark. It will need to be transferred to all walls using a water or laser level. It is according to these marks that you will verify the horizontal position of the mounted frame for the future ceiling.

Important! When using wooden beams or other wood materials, remember that they are necessary in advance and to increase fire safety.

Wooden bars are mounted to the ceiling strictly perpendicular to how the lining itself will be mounted. The step between the bars should not exceed more than 100 centimeters. If the finishing material is PVC panels, then the pitch of the bars should not exceed 60 centimeters.

If you decide to make the ceiling not only refined, but also improved, for example:, then in this case the step between the bars should in any case be no more than 60 centimeters. Since usually the so-called “slabs” of mineral wool or other heat and sound insulating material also have a width of 60 centimeters. The bottom edge of all bars should be parallel to your floor and flush with the rest of the bars. Be sure to use the water level.

We fasten two beams along two walls from different sides. The distance from them to the wall should not exceed 15 centimeters. we clearly align the level not only in the middle, but also along the edges of the bars. Next, with a step of 60 centimeters, we continue to mount the bars, checking our work with the help of a level at different points. In places where the beam lags behind the ceiling due to curvature, it is necessary to put wooden linings, which can be made from the remains of the beam itself. Next, we stretch the fishing line and fasten the entire frame for the ceiling from the lining along it.

If you are not sure about the reliability of the structure you have made, then you can install additional transverse bars, which will also ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. It can be strengthened and only at those points where, according to your plan, lamps or other elements will be installed. Be sure to install all the necessary wiring before installing the beam. That's the whole principle of making a wooden frame for lining ceilings.

Metal carcass

As everyone knows, the metal profile for creating various kinds of ceilings is universal and suitable for absolutely any finishing material. The frame itself and its installation system will be exactly the same as when creating a frame for suspended single-level plasterboard ceilings. So I don't really want to repeat myself.

Lining made of wood or MDF will be laid on the ceiling in the same way. All boards must be prepared and cut to size identical to the distance between the walls. It is also necessary to take into account a small gap of 5 millimeters between the lining and the walls in order to protect yourself from thermal expansion. If you are not entirely sure that your walls are even, then it is better to cut each lining lamella for a specific place.

Important! If you plan to mount the wall paneling on the ceiling using self-tapping screws, then be sure to drill holes in advance, otherwise cracks will form from the screws. If you use nails, then you need to use doboy so that the hammer does not damage the lock and the front of the board.

When your lining ceiling is in the process of being set, it is necessary to mark all the places for future lamps and cut holes for the wires. After the ceiling is ready, it will be more difficult to cut holes, as there will be a risk of damage.

The last strip of lining is usually installed using wedges. They must be carefully driven between the wall and the last board of the lining and, evenly knocking, drive the board into the lock. If the board is much wider in width than the remaining hole, then you need to cut it along the entire length with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Additionally, you should not put the lining on the glue, since you will already have a durable and strong construction.

Plastic lining

The principle of installing plastic lining on the ceiling will be the same as when laying wooden slats. The main difference will only be that the first board of plastic lining and each subsequent one must be inserted into special guides for PVC panels. The guides have a groove in the shape of the letter “P” in which all the ends of the panels will be hidden.

Now ceiling plinths are often made, which already initially have this groove. There is also a collapsible design in the shape of the letter “G”, which consists of two parts. The first part is mounted before sheathing the frame with clapboard, and the second part is simply snapped into place at the end of the ceiling finish. As a result, the overall level of the ceiling will be determined by the pre-assembled frame. But when installing the lining, it is necessary to ensure that all strips fit more closely to the installed guides and do not diverge from each other at the junctions.

Ceiling plinth

After the work on finishing the ceilings with clapboard is completed, you need to fix a corner or decorative plinth around the perimeter of your new ceiling. The plinth will hide all the gaps between the walls and the lining. The plinth is usually mounted with liquid nails. There are also special clips.

Ceiling surface cladding is a construction event, to which high requirements are initially imposed. This is due to the nature of the materials used and the fact that in most cases, a homeowner who decides to make the ceiling sheathing on their own will need experience and the availability of specialized tools. Regardless of the type of materials used, the ceiling cladding technology is generally similar and involves the arrangement of the frame and its subsequent cladding. However, the materials used in the process of finishing ceilings are different, and their choice is determined by the characteristics of a particular method of finishing. Despite the fact that carrying out finishing activities using most methods requires certain skills of a specialist in this field, there are those that are available to everyone, including beginners, and the most common of them is clapboard ceiling lining. It is widely used on construction sites, being the material of choice in the process of both external and internal finishing work. The World Wide Web offers a lot of information on this topic, however, this article, being the most complete and structured, will most effectively answer the question: “How to sheathe a clapboard ceiling?”.

Clapboard ceiling: the main types of material

Despite the fact that the construction market provides the consumer with the freedom to choose among a variety of inexpensive polymeric materials for interior decoration that have won the trust of developers, today there are many true connoisseurs of natural wood. The commitment of craftsmen to the use of this material is due to its aesthetic characteristics, environmental safety and ease of use, and there are legends about the unique woody aroma in a room where the ceiling is lined with clapboard, in the literal sense of the word. In addition, the thermal insulation characteristics of wood make it possible to create a balanced microclimatic environment in a room where the ceiling is lined with clapboard.

Wooden lining: material specifics

The lining is a facing board, the specificity of which lies in the tongue-and-groove fixation system. In the last century, it was used only for lining wagons, for which it got its name, and later became a material widely used for both exterior and interior decoration. In the post-war years, being one of the most budget options, lining was the only available finishing material. Over the past decades, lining not only has not lost its former popularity, but has also established itself as a reliable facing material. Subsequently, along with the advent of new technologies for the manufacture of lining, the scope of its application has expanded significantly.

The production of lining is a multi-stage process, including the manufacture of an edged board with its subsequent industrial drying, the application of tongue-and-groove joints, careful grinding of material surfaces and, finally, sorting of finished products. These production features determine the advantages of the material, such as the ability to obtain a strong connection of panels without gaps, an attractive appearance, and therefore the material does not need additional processing, and its decorative characteristics are much higher than operational ones.

There are various classifications of natural lining, suggesting the division of the lining in accordance with a variety of features. Among them are the quality of the finished product, the type of wood used for the production of lining, and the scope of its use, and other equally relevant parameters. Let us consider in more detail the most common classifications.

Ceiling from lining photo

For the manufacture of lining, the following types of wood are used:

• Noble wood species, among which oak and ash deserve special attention;
• Soft breeds - among them alder and linden;
• Universal species - spruce and pine (in this case, the thickness of the profile is 12.0 x 25.0 mm, width - 90.0 x 150.0 mm and length up to 6 m).

In accordance with the scope of use, several types of lining are also distinguished:

• "Evrovagonka" - a type of lining, more often exported to European countries and characterized by a smooth front surface and the presence of an in-depth tongue-and-groove system;
• "American" - a kind of lining, using which you can imitate overlapping, popular in America;
• "Panel lining" - a type of material, the appearance of which has obvious similarities with a bar;
• "Block House" - a profile that has external similarities with a rounded beam.

Another classification of wood panels involves their separation depending on quality:

• "Extra" - panels included in this category are characterized by high quality, the absence of dark spots and knots, which leads to the highest cost of the material;
• Category "A" - small knots can be found on the surface of the panels included in this group, which significantly affects the price of this material and makes it affordable for most buyers;
• Category "B" - panels of medium quality, the most suitable for finishing work in the country, balcony or recreation center;
• Category "C" - low-grade panels, the surface of which is characterized by a large number of dark spots and knots.

Important! Among the variety of wooden panels, experts recommend giving preference to products made from cedar, aspen or linden. However, for ceiling sheathing, you can use not only wooden, but also plastic panels.

Plastic panels: a brief description

The traditional classification of plastic panels involves their division into seamless panels and panels with a marked seam, as a result of which the surface of the ceiling is characterized by an appearance similar to a wooden covering.

Important! Unlike wooden lining, plastic panels do not need additional processing, which must be carried out before or after finishing the ceiling with lining. This is due to the initial practicality of plastic lining and the variety of its colors, which allows you to choose a plastic lining that imitates a wooden surface.

• Seamless plastic lining It is characterized by the presence of a hidden tongue-and-groove system, which makes it possible to make the seams almost invisible after the installation of the ceiling covering. Also, in the process of producing seamless lining, the manufacturer focuses on reducing the number of joints between the panels, increasing their width, which is five times the width of traditional panels;
• Plastic lining with a dedicated seam has external similarities with wooden lining, differing from it in that, unlike the latter, it does not need additional processing.

Important! Giving preference to plastic lining, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the main features of PVC panels:

• Although plastic panels are designed to hide existing unevenness in the finished surface, and therefore, they bend easily, excessive stress constantly acting on the panel can lead to cracks. A damaged panel is not suitable for restoration;
• Plastic panels are moisture resistant, however, ultraviolet radiation, constantly affecting the material, can cause it to fade.

MDF panels: specifics of use

There is another type of lining - MDF panels, which are lining made from fiberboard. The production of this variety is based on the method of pressing wood fiber, followed by giving the material the necessary shape and installing the tongue-and-groove system. If the size and shape of MDF panels are generally standard, then the color scheme has practically no restrictions. The principle of surface sheathing using this material is similar to that when using wooden lining. Due to the fact that one of the disadvantages of MDF panels is low moisture resistance, and constant exposure to moisture can cause them to deform and collapse, lining of this type can only be used in rooms characterized by a low level of humidity, and is not suitable for arranging false ceilings in bathroom or kitchen.

• Wooden lining is a universal material, combined with almost any finishing materials that are relevant today. As for the decoration of country houses, saunas and baths, in this case, lining is the material of choice for finishing events. The owners of the apartments also have wooden lining in good standing, it is used for finishing balconies and loggias, as well as for partial or complete finishing of the kitchen or living room.
• If you are seriously thinking about using wood when decorating a room and, in particular, a ceiling, check out this article, which will discuss how to mount the lining on the ceiling so that it is not only reliable, but also stylish and harmonious;
• The ceiling, sheathed with wooden clapboard, should organically fit into a holistic interior concept, combining favorably not only with the floor and furniture, but also with home textiles. This advice will be especially relevant if you plan to decorate the interior in a classic or rustic style;
• So that the surface of the ceiling sheathed with clapboard is not monotonous, it is recommended to install the rails in different directions, which will help create a certain pattern on the ceiling. To increase the decorative effect created, you can use slats or decorative beams of a different color;
• Suspended ceiling - ideal for the living room. For its installation, you can use not only a long board, but also ready-made modules. The panels used for mounting a false ceiling in the living room can be decorated with carvings, paintings or stained glass windows - thanks to the use of modern technologies, manufacturers offer a lot of options.

What to do if you have purchased a wooden lining?

After you have purchased a wooden lining, experts do not recommend immediately proceeding with the installation of the ceiling. In this regard, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the following tips for maintaining the original quality of the material:

• First of all, it is necessary to release the purchased lining from the packaging;
• Next, the panels are carefully laid out on a flat surface, it is better if they are wooden boards;
• Before proceeding with the installation of the ceiling, wait for the time required for the lining to dry completely. At the same time, it is important to know that the lining must be dried as much as possible, which will positively affect their quality. Drying of the panels must be carried out in the room where the installation is planned.

Important! Experts do not recommend rushing to install the lining on the ceiling and let it dry completely. The most optimal time for complete drying of the lining is considered to be a time period of three months, however, if you cannot wait too long, the time can be reduced to several weeks.

• The importance of this advice cannot be underestimated, since ideally the humidity of the room where the installation will be carried out and the humidity of the panels should match. Otherwise, non-compliance with these recommendations may lead to deformation of the panels. In this sense, the practicality of MDF panels and plastic panels is much higher, since they do not need pre-drying. To carry out the installation of plastic lining on the ceiling, it is enough to leave it for two or three days in a heated room, where work will be carried out and boldly proceed with the installation activities.

Calculation of the amount of material. Required Tools

• The calculation of the required amount of material is a simple but rather laborious undertaking, and its implementation must be carried out at the proper level. Experts advise purchasing material with a certain margin so that there are no unpleasant surprises in the process of work.
• First of all, decide on the direction of fastening of the elements, and then display this on the drawing. It will become your faithful assistant in the correct determination and calculation of the required amount of material;
• If the area of ​​​​your room is calculated according to the scheme 2.5 x 3.3 m, purchase a material 3 m long and fasten in a width of 2.5 m, trimming the material by 50 cm, which will go to waste. If you choose a different placement, you will have to grind part of the element, which will be noticeable after the installation is completed;
• In the process of considering the width of the configuration, it is important to remember the groove that runs along the edge of each part.

In order to make a ceiling from a lining with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:

• Drill, screwdriver and perforator;
• Hacksaw, as well as scissors for metal;
• A hammer;
• Roulette;
• Building corner and building level;

To make a wooden frame, prepare a beam, the thickness of which is calculated based on the features of the chosen design, but its cross section should not be less than 20 mm. In the case of installing additional insulation, its thickness must be added to the thickness of the timber.

Important! In the case of installing additional insulation, the material should also be taken with a margin. During installation, the insulation should not be pressed excessively - its fastening should be carried out freely, without additional clamping, since in the case of rigid fastening, the insulation will lose its properties.

If you are planning to install a ceiling from a wooden lining on a metal profile, be prepared for the fact that the costs will increase. In addition to the main material, additional elements will be required:

• Profile UD, which is fastened around the perimeter of the entire room;
• Profile CD, which acts as the basis of the frame;
• Crabs, which are a cruciform mount and U-shaped fasteners;
• Self-tapping screws.

Important! Despite the fact that some craftsmen prefer to fasten the lining with a stapler or nails, motivating this by the speed of the method. However, this fastening is considered insufficiently reliable, and therefore, experts recommend using proven self-tapping screws.

Lining the ceiling with clapboard: step by step instructions

Ceiling frame installation

During the installation of the frame, it is important not to rush and follow all the recommendations, since in case of a violation of the arrangement of the elements, the geometry of the entire structure will be disturbed, which subsequently cannot be corrected.

In accordance with the instructions, first of all, they find the lowest corner in the room and, adding to it the height of the beam and the thickness of the lining, put a mark on this place and transfer it to other planes in the room. To facilitate this task, it is recommended to use a hydraulic level;

The resulting marks are connected with a nylon thread and the resulting level is beaten off on the walls in the room.

Important! If you use wood during the installation of the frame, pre-treat it with an antiseptic that will protect the material from mold and rot. This work is recommended to be done in advance, as the material must dry out. The method of processing, as well as its terms, are indicated by the manufacturer of the antiseptic composition on the package.

To ensure the fastening of the lining to the ceiling, prepare a flat base surface on which the cladding will be fastened.

To do this, fasten straight bars with a cross section of 40 x 40 mm around the perimeter, constantly monitoring the water level;

To carry out their adjustment, use wooden plates of various thicknesses, which must be placed at the points where the bars are attached to the supporting ceiling panels;

After you have screwed in all the screws, a solid base is formed on the ceiling, which is limited by the surface of the bars;

If you are dealing with a concrete floor, before attaching the lining, take the following steps:

Install the dowels 8 x 40 mm, for which it is necessary, using a carbide drill, drill a hole 40-50 mm deep and insert the dowel. Next, using a drill with a diameter of 5 mm, drill through the bars at the installation sites of the dowels;

Using a cord, beat off the lines on the ceiling along which the intermediate bars of the crate will be fastened, which should be located at a distance of 0.6 mm from each other.

Important! Due to the fact that even at the stage of installation of the facing surface there is a possibility of an error leading to a violation of flatness and the appearance of noticeable unevenness, it is recommended to use a fishing line stretched along the marked lines. This will eliminate the use of the building level.

To install the inner part of the crate, you will need an assistant who will hold the bars as close as possible to the stretched fishing lines and, if necessary, lay the adjustment plates. At this time, you will drill and screw the bars.

Important! If you are faced with the need for additional insulation, install block and roll thermal insulation materials between the lathing bars, over which you need to stretch a vapor barrier film that prevents the lathing from contacting moisture.

Lining the ceiling with clapboard: how to fix the facing material

• The next stage is lining the ceiling with clapboard in a wooden house.
• This stage is not particularly difficult, but despite this, you will need an assistant. If you are using long panels, this is a must.
• Take the first panel and, attaching it tightly to the wall, fix it;
• The next panel is inserted into the groove to the previous one and fixed at the location of the crate;
• If it is planned to install holes for lamps and pipes, they are drilled in the course of work, which eliminates the possibility of errors;
• If, in the process of lining the ceiling with clapboard in a wooden house, you manage to make fasteners at the place where the ridge enters the groove, you will get a really harmonious ceiling covering by hiding the self-tapping screws;
• If you are lining the ceiling with plastic panels, all the necessary holes must be drilled in advance, eliminating the risk of surface damage.

Important! Make sure in advance that all communications and electrical wiring are not damaged, since dismantling the surface is highly undesirable. As fasteners, use those made of stainless materials, which will avoid the appearance of stains from rust.

Important! During operation, take into account the temperature and humidity of the room where the installation will be carried out. In case of temperature below +10 degrees and high humidity, it is recommended to postpone installation activities.