Than to close the joint between. How to close the joint between the stretch ceiling and the wall: a plastic plinth or a decorative baguette? Sealing is carried out in several stages

Does not require special skills. Laminate board is an inexpensive and reliable coating that fits into almost any interior. The only thing that needs to be done when installing a laminate is to seal the joints. Since the basis of the laminate is fiberboard, when moisture gets under the panel, it swells and deforms. Required condition when installing laminate boards - this is the sealing of joints. It is important how to close the joints of the laminate.

Sealant for processing

Sealant is a special gel with which seams, gaps and joints are processed. At the same time, there is no gluing of the joints, which is a big plus when you need to replace the panel.

It is best to choose a sealant, which includes silicone. This silicone-based product has very good performance properties:

• reliability;
• long service life;
• the possibility of using a hermetic agent at any temperature conditions.

In addition to silicone, the composition of the sealed gel includes the following components:

• additives: quartz flour, chalk;
• antifungal substances;
• dyes;
• and substances that reduce the viscosity of the gel.

If the question is how to close the joints floor covering from a laminate board, is solved, now it is necessary to prepare tools and materials for their processing.

Tools and materials

Before applying the sealant, you must read the instructions for use. If the sealant is used in residential areas, carefully study its composition for the presence of harmful chemical components.

1. Silicone based sealant.
2. Rubber hammer.
3. Ruler, pencil.
4. Electric jigsaw.
5. Retainer.
6. Expanding wedges.

Before laying laminate flooring, it is necessary to carefully prepare the floor on which the laminate panels will be laid. The smoother the base, the less time it will take to process the joints.

Features of laying laminate panels

1. The substrate for installing laminate flooring must be dry, clean and level. Surface differences should not exceed 3–5 mm per meter. Otherwise, the lock joints of the panels will quickly loosen and become unusable, which will require additional time and material costs for the dismantling and installation of the laminate.
2. If the differences in the base are more than 5 mm per meter, it is advisable to make a new screed and only then lay the laminate panels. The even surface of the base will allow you to properly lay out the substrate under the laminate in order to protect the floor from moisture.
3. The first row of panels must be laid out with a deformation gap of 8 mm. Such a gap should be maintained around the entire perimeter of the room using spacer wedges. This is done so that the laminate when changing temperature environment in the apartment (room) "breathed" and moisture did not accumulate under it.
4. When assembling the panels, it is necessary to coat the joints with a hermetic agent. Excess gel must be carefully removed with a sponge or wet cloth. All other panels are mounted in the same way. After finishing laying the laminate interlock connections will be sealed.
5. The gaps left in doorway, can be decorated with elements such as a plinth or a threshold. How to lubricate the joints between the laminate and the plinth? You can use the same sealed silicone-based gel.
6. If the laminate board is joined:

• with linoleum - close the seams with a plastic threshold;
• with tiles - close the seams with an aluminum threshold;
• with a stone surface - it is desirable to close the joints with cork plates.

1. Silicone-based sealant will not bond laminate flooring. The gel prevents excess moisture from penetrating under the floor covering, so, if necessary, you can easily replace several panels.
2. If an expensive high-quality laminate is used for the flooring, then there is no need to use a sealant. The joints of such a laminate are already treated with a water-repellent agent.
3. If a floor heating system is installed in the living room, then use adhesive laminate it is forbidden. Since this coating is non-separable, and in the event of a breakdown of the floor heating system, you will have to remove the entire laminate. And this means that it will take time to lay a new floor covering and there will be material costs for the purchase of new laminate panels.
4. It is necessary to lay the laminate flooring along doors, windows or verandas, that is, along a natural light source. Otherwise, the drop shadow will emphasize the joints of the panels, which will make the room less aesthetically pleasing. If there are several windows in the room, then laying should start from big window diagonally. This method is more expensive, but the most effective.

Video

This video shows how to mount a skirting board with different type mounts:

And this video is about the installation of a flexible profile:

Any suspended ceiling, and the tensioner is no exception, after the installation is completed, it needs decorative trim along the perimeter. In places where the ceiling joins the wall, there is a gap. For different suspended structures, their preferred options are used, how to close this gap and give the structure a complete look. Stretch ceiling is a universal system, since it can use both a special plinth and a traditional one. decorative profile under any ceiling.

Therefore, there are two options for how to decorate the joint between the ceiling and the wall: use a special plinth (quick installation) or spend time and effort on creating an exquisite finish.

Using stubs

A special plinth for installation on a stretch ceiling is practical option. It will hide the gap between the two surfaces, but the frame itself will not stand out. This option is characterized by simplicity and conciseness of decoration. Externally, the ceiling will simply fit snugly against the wall.

Important! If the customer does not receive any wishes regarding the design of the perimeter, then the craftsmen themselves offer to install such a plinth on the stretch ceiling.

If the stretch ceiling is single-level, and it was installed in a room in ordinary apartment, then either an F-shaped plinth or an L-shaped plinth is used. The latter is also called the wall corner.

AT large rooms still use a dividing profile with a dividing plug. This skirting board differs from others in that it has a symmetrical profile: two locks and two shelves that cover the canvas on both sides of the joint.

The L-shaped plinth has one rib with hooks, which is inserted into the power profile of the strapping. It is made from soft grades of plastic, so it is flexible and allows you to make a joint along a curved line.

The F-shaped plinth is rigid, it is installed on flat surfaces, mainly from tiles or drywall. Due to its rigidity, it holds a straight line well, which is important for general impression framing accuracy.

To install such a plinth, the owner will need a few minutes. With a fastening rib, the corner is inserted into the profile and pushed through with pressure. To do this, use a blunt spatula.

Except quick installation, such a plinth has a number of advantages:

• Multiple dismantling without damaging the baseboard itself and finishing materials. If you need to remove the canvas, the plinth is easily removed from the groove and inserted back.
• The soft L-shaped plinth will hide the joint in curved structures.
• Of all the options, this is the cheapest material.
• Laconic design can be the most harmonious solution for an interior in a minimalist style, where curly decorative details are not welcome.

Under a wide palette of fabric and film materials, an equally colorful range of decorative caps is produced. This is done not from an excess of imagination, but because it is desirable to select a cap of the same color for any canvas. The fact is that on a large span, the decorative tape gives a wave, no matter how the master tries to align it. The plinth of the same tone will only indicate the smooth edge of the ceiling, and the wave will not be noticeable.

It is important to choose the right skirting board for the installed load-bearing baguette. There are plugs that are used only for baguettes of the harpoon system, for others, the mounting ribs are designed for a baguette of the wedge mounting technology. There is a difference between plugs for aluminum and plastic baguettes. Therefore, returning to the previous recommendation, rely on the master installer. If you have to deal with the purchase of masking tape yourself, then take a piece of the carrier profile with you so that you can pick up a suitable plinth in the store.

Video, how the decorative cap is fixed:

The quality of the wall finish plays an important role when choosing a baguette for a stretch ceiling. If they are uneven, then it is better to refuse the standard masking tape and use a wide plinth made of polyurethane or foam.

Decorative baguettes

A decorative plinth is chosen by those owners for whom a stretched canvas does not yet mean the end of work on the design of the ceiling space. In this case, the plinth not only hides the joint, but also performs an important decorative function. Although it can be installed close to the ceiling, it is more often mounted with an understatement. The stretch ceiling looks much more spectacular with lighting, and lamps are mounted in this niche.

Of all the variety of forms, the win-win will be flat plinth extruded type. The smooth baguette blends harmoniously with the glossy surface of the film in any setting. Skirting board with imitation decorative stucco requires a balanced approach, taking into account the style of the rest of the interior.

Any baguettes made of polyurethane or polystyrene are used under the stretch fabric, but with some installation features. Since the plinth cannot be glued to the film or fabric, it is fixed only on one side to a vertical surface. Hence, some of the nuances regarding the choice and installation of a decorative baguette:

• If the perimeter of the room is even, then it is better to use a light foam baseboard It is glued to acrylic liquid nails or regular finishing putty.
• For designs with curved lines, polyurethane is taken, since it bends well. But this stuff is heavy, so Special attention paid to the preparation of the surface of the base and right choice adhesive for mounting.
• To hold the baguette firmly, choose a profile with a vertically elongated section and a wide mounting shelf.
• The wallpaper is glued after installing the baguette, carefully trimming them with a wide spatula.
• When mounting close to the film, they still leave a small gap so that the canvas does not slam against the plinth during vibration.

The disadvantages associated with the complexity of the installation are obvious:

• Even in a rectangular room with an even perimeter, you will need to trim the baguette in four corners, and not everyone can do it neatly. Even experienced craftsmen use for this miter box.

• You will have to deal with putty or acrylic adhesives. To make the plinth monolithic, the joint in the corners and cracks is sealed.
• The plinth is painted several times. If the first layer is easy to perform, then when finishing the glued baguette, you should try not to stain the canvas.

Important! Remove the plinth and not damage it will not work. If you want to dismantle the canvas, the baguette comes off and after installing the film in place, a new one is bought.

If desired, you can install plaster molding. AT this case we are talking about creating a whole composition of the cornice type using elements of pilasters, curly moldings, columns. Such decorations adorn complex multilevel structures, with combined finishes.

Wooden skirting boards are installed only in rooms with wood trim, where other materials are inappropriate.

decorative braid

AT recent times appeared new way decorating the ceiling contour with a decorative cord. This element will not only hide the junction between the vertical and horizontal plane, will clearly separate the canvas and the vertical surface, but will also become a bright detail that requires a special style in the rest of the interior.

According to the texture, the braid is woven and twisted. It is installed in the same way as a plastic plinth: it is pressed into the profile groove. But at the same time, it is necessary to control the straightness of the edging, therefore, a long rule is used on straight sections, and on curvilinear sections they rely on the eye and patience.

On sale there are such types of decorative cord for installation in a stretch ceiling:

• Cord with woven core. For elasticity, rubber veins are woven into the threads. Due to this, with uneven indentation, the cord tends to straighten out, thereby helping the master to get a straight edging.
• With metal reinforcement. Allows you to get a smooth bend on curved lines.
• Cord with a single-color braid or with multi-colored threads.

As a rule, at the same time, garlands, picturesque ornaments inherent in the style of classic, empire, baroque are always present in the interior.

Between the floor slabs on the ceiling, seams inevitably remain.

Do not combine old putty with new. Old putty has already dried up, lumps have formed in it, because of which it will not be possible to achieve the smoothness of the ceiling.

They do not decorate the interior of the room at all. To close them, you need to do the following:

• expand by removing the concrete filler from the joint;
• cover it with a primer;
• fill the seam with mounting foam;
• cut off excess foam after it dries;
• level the surface with a gypsum plaster mixture;
• make the final alignment of the ceiling;
• glue a strip of non-woven thin fabric or gauze onto the joint with PVA glue;
• putty the seams;
• sand after the putty dries with an emery cloth or mesh.

Tools and materials

To perform ceiling repair work may need:

• spatula with an elastic flexible blade;
• dry gypsum putty (preferably Knauf, Uniflot);
• drill or perforator;
• masking tape;
• nozzle-mixer for a drill;
• PVA glue;
• primer with deep penetration properties;
• fine-grained sandpaper or sanding mesh;
• construction pistol;
• acrylic sealant.

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Work order

The repair of irregularities on the ceiling can take place in the following sequence:

1. Expand the seam between the floor slabs using an electric hammer drill with a spade-shaped nozzle. Remove with a spatula or knife pieces of old cement screed and filler.
2. Clean the surface of the ceiling and cracks from dust. Prepare the primer according to the instructions for use. Using a brush, coat the ceiling seams. The primer should penetrate well into the cracks. The primer layer must be dried.
3. Prepare gypsum plaster according to the attached instructions. Mix the mass thoroughly construction mixer. A small amount can be mixed with a spatula. The prepared mortar for grouting should have the consistency of very thick sour cream. They carefully fill all the cracks and irregularities on the ceiling. close up deep cracks better in several steps. Each layer dries well. A seam of large width and depth can be filled with mounting foam. Cut off excess foam after it dries with a knife. Termination ends with a leveling layer gypsum plaster, carefully rubbing it into the pores of the foam.
4. After the seams have completely dried, they are coated with PVA glue and sealed with a strip of masking tape. The width of the tape should be 2-3 cm wider than the seams. A thin layer of putty is applied over the tape.
5. After the repaired joints have dried, another layer of primer is applied to the entire surface of the ceiling and finishing putty. It is better to apply it with a wide spatula as thin as possible. Instead of finishing putty or plaster, you can glue the surface with masking fiberglass, prime and paint the ceiling. termination ceiling seams finished.

Sewing seams is not easy. The material hardens for a long time, the putty tends to fall down. It must be held with a spatula for several seconds. The main thing in this work is not to rush. Otherwise, you will have to redo all the work again.

The easiest way to hide irregularities and cracks in the ceiling is to use a stretch ceiling. Another option is to mount a suspended, multi-level, plasterboard ceiling. It is possible with fiberglass paint mesh and various dry mixes. Over each seam between the floor slabs, a fiberglass masking mesh with a cell of 2x2 mm is laid. She also masks the seams in plasterboard ceiling. On such a ceiling, they are first glued with paper tape, only after that they are reinforced with a mesh.

You can seal the seam between drywall sheets in the following sequence:

1. Joint and part of the surface drywall sheet coated with a putty mixture with a layer about a millimeter thick.
2. A paper tape is laid on the seam, pressed into the solution, smoothed with a spatula and covered with a thin layer of putty.
3. Excess putty mass is removed with a wide spatula.
4. Each seam is sealed in the same way.
5. After the putty has dried, the seams are sanded with an emery cloth or mesh and primed.
6. A fiberglass mesh is fixed on the surface of the entire ceiling. You can temporarily secure it with pushpins. A layer of putty is applied over the mesh and then carefully smoothed out. The putty penetrates through the mesh cells and firmly adheres it to the drywall sheets. Excess putty is removed with a spatula.
7. After drying, the ceiling is sanded and primed again.
8. If necessary, a final leveling layer of putty is applied. It should finally hide the traces of screws and seams, mesh and paper. Ceiling seams completed.

As a result, at least two layers of putty are applied to the ceiling surface. With the grid applied, at least one more is added. Between the application of these layers, drying, grinding and priming of the surface is carried out. It is not necessary to reduce the number of these cycles in order to save time. Such preliminary work guarantees the quality and durability of the ceiling. Only after that the ceiling is ready for final finishing. You can paint it in any color, paste over with wallpaper, tiles and so on. The approximate consumption of dry mix for putty is 1 kg per 3-4 square meters plasterboard ceiling area.

How to seal or close the joint

Regardless of which ceiling is installed in the apartment - stretch, plasterboard, it is pasted over with tiles or wallpaper, or simply painted to make it look complete, it is necessary to perform finishing touch- make a joint.

The gap at the junction of the ceiling to the wall looks untidy, and the structure itself is unfinished. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a way to decorate this area so that it does not stand out from the overall composition.

Joint design methods

Having perfectly flat surfaces of walls and ceilings, additional design a joint may not be required if it does not require style decision rooms, when molding is simply necessary to maintain a special atmosphere. If not, then the joint looks natural and even, forming a clear right angle without gaps.

Sometimes, with a perfectly even butt joint, in order to create optical illusion and raise the ceiling upper part the walls are painted.

If there are even small gaps, the use of special camouflage devices will be required at the junction. Instructions for the use of which usually consist of simple manipulations and do not require special skills and tools, so this work can be easily done by hand.

Masking tape for stretch ceiling

The joint between the wall and the ceiling made of stretch fabric is masked with a PVC plug in the form of a special profile or insert (read more). The junction of several levels and the junction of the structure to the wall acquire a finished neat appearance.

To do this, you need to place the plug in the baguette slot, where during the installation process the web is inserted and, or the profile. When flooded from above, such an insert is removed without problems, the canvas is dismantled and the water is drained, and then the product is installed in place.

There are several types of plugs for stretch ceilings:

1. For a neat connection of the stretch fabric and slightly curved walls, a wall-mounted elastic profile of the L-shaped type is installed in their direction;

1. To design the joint of the stretch fabric with a tiled or porcelain stoneware wall, T-shaped plugs are used. In this case, the color of the product can be chosen to match the ceiling or in contrast;
2. If it is necessary to connect fabrics of different colors and textures, use a profile that differs from the shape of the baguette. In this case, the plug masking such a profile is fixed in a different way than previously described.

A wide decorative border is used for contrasting colors, creating a clear, visible border between the ceiling and walls.

Usually black or white inserts are used. The white canvas is most common due to the fact that the price is less, and the universal White color allows you to visually increase the height of the room.

With the help of a white edging, they mask the gap of a light canvas and the same wall. And with the help of black, the border between the two planes is emphasized. You can choose a colored plug to match the ceiling or wall.

Thanks to the fact that at PVC manufacturing tapes are placed in reels of 100 meters or more, in the store you can buy products of the required length.

Fabric cord

Using a fabric thick twisted cord is an alternative solution when the question arises of how to arrange a gap between stretch fabric and wall. The product is pressed into the baguette slot.

With the help of this decorative element the transition between the ceiling and the wall can be emphasized, drawing attention to the structure, thanks to the expressive appearance of the cord. It looks especially impressive in combination with satin and fabric canvases.

Important! It is necessary to achieve a tight contact of the cord with the wall and the edge of the stretch ceiling. If necessary, it can be "planted" on the sealant, but this will create difficulties if you need to temporarily remove the product.

One of the advantages of the edging cord is its flexibility, which allows you to shape curved elements. suspended structure. A rich selection color solutions and textures allows you to choose the design for any interior. Such a cord will look especially organic against the background of fabric wallpaper.

Fabric cords are monophonic and multi-colored, consisting of several shades with a relief braid. They may have metal threads or rubber veins as decorative inserts.

You can choose products with a pattern of the required subject. For a rich classic interior, you can use lurex cords - imitations of silver or gold threads.

ceiling molding

To give a finished look to the ceiling - stretch, plasterboard or simple, painted white, you can use moldings that have long become familiar. They may have different width, material of manufacture, color and texture.

Wide range of manufacturers ceiling decor products, allows you to choose elements for decoration in any interior.

The term "molding" refers to various elements of stucco for decorating the ceiling and walls. For the overlay profile that decorates the joint, the name "ceiling molding", "plinth" or "border" is used.

The material for the manufacture of such products can be:

1. Wood;
2. Polyurethane;
3. Polystyrene;
4. natural gypsum.

wooden moldings

With the help you can give the room respectability. This finish is suitable for classic interiors, as well as where wooden suspended or false ceilings are arranged.

The price of such products depends on the type of wood that went into their manufacture. For skirting boards price segment spruce, poplar or alder is used. The most expensive are products made of oak, yew or mahogany.

The advantages of wooden skirting boards include the following:

1. Due to its natural origin, natural beauty and ideal environmental performance wooden skirting boards can be used in residential areas;
2. Natural wood can be treated with stain, varnish, enriching its natural pattern and shade, or painted in any color with paint;
3. If you paint the molding in the same color as the walls, then the ceiling will visually become higher, and the room will acquire additional volume;
4. The compactness of the room can be given by painting the baseboard in the same color as the ceiling.

Important! To properly install a wooden molding, special skills are required.

Styrofoam molding

Foam molding is the most budget option design of the joint between the wall and the ceiling. These products are easy to work with, they weigh little and are easy to cut with ordinary scissors. But you should be careful not to accidentally damage the foam border, as it is quite fragile.

The disadvantage of this material, like the wood discussed above, is flammability.

Polystyrene molding

Manufactured by extrusion. Such products are distinguished by a clear relief and have a smooth matte surface. Such products are harder and stronger than foam analogues.

One of positive qualities of this material is its affordable cost.

The advantage of this material is that it does not contribute to the maintenance and spread of fire. Polystyrene is also easy to work with, easy to cut, but more resistant to mechanical stress.

Polyurethane molding

Plinth made of polyurethane is practical to use, it can be painted, and due to the presence of rubber in the composition, this material can bend without losing its integrity, which allows it to be used to decorate semicircular structures.

Such borders can have a smooth, even surface or patterned, with a clear pattern and maximum detailing of small elements.

Of the positive qualities of the material, the following can be noted:

1. Environmental friendliness;
2. Products do not have a specific smell;
3. The material is non-combustible;
4. Products are light in weight;
5. The material is easy to install;
6. They are pre-primed white surface which can be dyed any color if desired. In this case, the paint is distributed evenly.

Gypsum molding

Gypsum moldings, which are also used to decorate the ceiling at the point of its transition to the wall, can be considered an exclusive type of finish.

Not only because all parts are manufactured manually and have a high cost, but also due to some unique properties gypsum:

1. Being natural material, gypsum and products made from it are 100% environmentally friendly. They do not emit toxins and do not cause allergies;
2. Gypsum is absolutely fireproof material;
3. Gypsum does not conduct electricity;

1. Not afraid of temperature changes;
2. Gypsum is a hygroscopic material. He takes from the air excess moisture, and with its lack - gives;
3. Each product is unique, as it is created by hand. This allows you to make moldings necessary, sometimes non-standard shape and width;

1. Drawing and relief, created by oneself, can have an accurate rendering of three-dimensional small details;
2. With the help of gypsum cornices, you can successfully disguise not only the junction between the wall and the ceiling, but also favorably arrange various kinds of technical holes, pipes, electrical wiring;
3. The finish is monolithic, seamless.

Gypsum stucco can be painted, patinated, acquiring an aged appearance, it can be covered with gilding.

The video in this article will tell you how to make a joint between the ceiling and the wall.

Such troubles as the formation of gaps between the floor slabs on the ceiling, or simply the manifestation of once not entirely successfully sealed seams, are very common in panel high-rise buildings. Therefore, at the first sign similar phenomena action needs to be taken. And for this, you need to have information on how to seal the seams between the panels on the ceiling yourself, without resorting to calling finishing specialists.

If the apartment is located on the last, top floor, and there is a gap between the plates on the ceiling, then it is possible that it will soon begin to drip from it, which means that persistent odor dampness and stains of mold or fungus, and besides this, the heat will quickly leave the room. These circumstances are especially unpleasant in the cold months of the year. Therefore, in such a case, repairs should begin with a revision of the roof, since if you do not cope with the flaws in the roofing, then sealing the cracks from the inside and leveling the ceiling is a waste of time.

If the inspection of the roof suggests that everything is in order with the roof, then you can safely proceed to repair the ceiling. In the case when it is found that the waterproofing roofing material is damaged, you must first to take steps its repair, for example, to replace sheets of roofing material, which usually cover the roof in high-rise buildings with a flat "soft" roof.

However, seams can crack not only on the upper floors, but also on any others. This is a common consequence home shrinkage processes.

So, making sure that no external factors will spoil t labor-intensive work on sealing the ceiling, you can proceed to repair activities inside the apartment.

Ceiling seam seal

If a small crack has formed between the plates, then you should start by expanding it. It often happens that the process of cutting even a small crack or gap suddenly opens up “big horizons” of work. Therefore, since hands have already reached this repair measure, it must be done immediately in good conscience, in in full so as not to return to this issue for a long time.

If you want to solve two issues at once - sealing the seam and leveling the ceiling, you need to clean the entire seam from old concrete. Usually, this is not difficult to do, since during the construction of houses, not too strong is used to seal the seams. cement mortar.

Materials and tools

In order not to repeat the mistakes of the masters who, during the construction of the house, worked on the seams of the ceilings without due diligence, you need to purchase quality materials and all the necessary tools for the job. It is necessary not only to cover up, but to carefully embroider the seam and carefully seal it when sealing.

So, starting work you need to purchase:

1. From the tools you will need a medium, wide and narrow spatula, a spray bottle, a narrow metal brush, a wide brush, a container for mixing the solution, construction knife and a drill with a perforator.

2. You can close the gaps using different materials, and it is worth listing all that may come in handy.

• Deep penetration concrete primer - necessary for better adhesion of the surface and the material that will seal the joint between the plates.

• NTs, which is designed for sealing deep seams. This material tends to expand during hardening, densely filling the entire space of seams and joints.

• If a wide seam is found that requires sealing, it is necessary to purchase dense insulation materials made of polyurethane or polyethylene foam. Instead, foam can be used.
• Requires latex elastic putty.
• Reinforcement required. Its width will depend on the width of the seam - the tape should extend beyond its borders by 40 ÷ 50 mm on both sides.
• For final finishing you will need primary and finishing putty for the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

How to seal the seams between the panels on the ceiling - we do it ourselves

Repairing the seams between the floor slabs will definitely entail bringing the entire ceiling in order, so you should start by completely cleaning the surface of paint, whitewash and, possibly, plaster.

• Using a spray gun, the ceiling is sprayed with water. It is better to spray not the entire ceiling at once, but in parts. A well-moistened area is left for 10 ÷ 15 minutes to soak, and then the old coating is removed using wide and medium spatulas. After that, you can move on to the next section, on which you need to carry out the entire procedure from the beginning. Such work is carried out until the entire plane of the ceiling is completely cleaned.
• Having removed the old coating in this place, the owner will immediately see the amount of work to be done. Usually there are two or three joints of floor slabs per room. Sometimes they are patched up very inaccurately and act as ugly humps. These bulges need to be eliminated and the ceiling made perfectly flat.

To do this, you need to take a puncher, install on it desired nozzle, switch to shock mode without rotation, and step by step release the joint from the old frozen mortar.

The joint and the slab around it must be completely cleaned, and the gap itself must be deepened by at least 50 mm.

• Next, you need to take a narrow iron brush or a wide brush and carefully clean the gap from dust and small pieces of concrete.

• The next step is to treat the gap with a primer in several layers, each of which must dry. The primer will make the solidified solution remaining inside the joint stronger, will not allow dampness and fungus to form in it, and will provide good contact with the repair compound, which will be applied later.
• If the gap between the joints is wide enough and is more than 30 ÷ 35 mm, then you first need to fill it with mounting foam. It will be well fixed on the primed surface and, expanding, will fill the entire opening.

When it hardens, the foam will come out of the seam, and when it is completely dry, it is carefully cut off so that at the joint of the plates in the foam a groove is formed, 30 ÷ 50 mm deep, tapering inwards, like a triangle.

• If during cleaning a joint is deep, but at the same time narrow, then it is worth doing the following.

Choosing a polyethylene foam seal desired thickness, on him one side a strip of sealant is applied and filled into the cleaned and primed joint with a spatula, leaving room for filling with concrete.

• Further, the joint is sealed with a solution of expanding concrete, but it is imperative to leave a small recess in the joint to expand the mortar and decorative plaster.

• After the mortar has dried or the groove has been prepared in a dry mounting foam, an elastic latex-based is applied to the joint. Work is best done using two spatulas - wide and medium or narrow. A solution is taken from a container on a wide spatula, and with a narrow one it is applied to the joint between the plates, compacting into a seam and leveling to the level of the ceiling surface, while removing excess putty.

• After 2 hours, which will be required for drying, they begin to reinforce the seams. To do this, with a spatula, a thin layer of putty is applied to the seam and the ceiling next to it in a strip of 50 ÷ 60 mm, a sickle mesh is fixed on it, pressing it into the solution and removing its excess with a spatula.

• After the joints have dried, the entire ceiling is treated with a primer, applying it with a roller. It is better to cover the surface with two layers of the composition.
• When the ceiling is dry, you can proceed to it. First, a thin layer of primary plaster is applied, and after it dries, a finishing final smooth layer is applied. It is applied with a wide spatula and at the same time leveled to the ideal.

• After the finish layer has dried, paint, whitewash or wallpaper can be applied to the ceiling.

Video: repair of seams between floor slabs

Fixing a hole in the ceiling

Sometimes it also happens that when cleaning the seam from the old solution, not just a narrow gap opens, but big hole- Defect of the floor slab. In this case, this hole can be repaired in two ways.

In any case, the first thing to do is to thoroughly clean inner part hole formed. This process is best done with a narrow brush.

1. Having freed the inside of the hole from dirt, it must be well sprayed with a primer. After waiting for the first layer to dry, it is necessary to apply the second.

• Next, the hole is filled with mounting foam.
• Then, after it dries and expands, the excess is cut off, and a cone is cut from the inside of the hole, at the base the size of the hole, and 40 ÷ 50 mm high.
• This cutout is necessary to fix the cement mortar in it, which is applied in the next step. It is leveled with a spatula and left to dry completely.
• Then putty is applied to the place where the hole was and around it for 50 ÷ 70 mm, and a sickle mesh is glued on it, which is pressed into the applied layer of the solution, smoothed and left to dry.
• Further work proceeds in the same way as when sealing seams.

2. Another termination method differs from the first, and it is used if a large void is found in the ceiling.

• In this case, you will need a piece of plywood (you can use scraps of laminate) about 100 mm larger than the dimensions of the hole.
• Then, it is necessary to strengthen the wire grate in the hole, which must be fixed to the sealant or cement mortar inside the hole. After the mortar has dried, the wire must be securely fastened inside the opening. The lattice will serve as reinforcement for repair mortar with whom they create a kind stove.

• Mixed concrete is laid out on the prepared plywood, it must be uniform and not excessively thick.
• The plywood platform with the solution is lifted and pressed tightly against the hole so that the solution completely fills the remaining cavity. We will have to come up with a reliable support for this kind of formwork, which will hold it until the repair composition dries completely. For this, a thick branch, a bar or a pyramid of a table and chairs is suitable.
• After the mortar dries in the opening, it will turn out perfectly Smooth surface ceiling.
• Next, you can begin to work on putting in order the entire surface of the ceiling.

Video: sealing a volumetric hole in a floor slab

It should be noted that the joint between the plates is quite possible to update independently. But the full is enough hard work, so it is better to entrust it to an experienced master finisher. However, if there is a desire and self-confidence, and this is quite doable.