Plaster molding on the walls. Do-it-yourself plaster molding. …and not vice versa

Once upon a time, interior decoration with stucco and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is only a matter of labor and patience. Achievements modern technologies allow to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have an art education, but are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in fig. below, quite within the power of a patient and attentive amateur.

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco molding - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco molding can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name "acrylic plasters". How to gain the volume of a bas-relief with building putty compounds can be found in the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Amateurs also use the basic composition of architectural gypsum, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5 by volume. Gypsum and plaster mixture mixed dry and closed with water, i.e. water is added to the mixture, and not vice versa. Bring to a consistency from dough to yogurt or fat-free kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The density of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

The bas-relief on the wall is made in low relief (top left in the figure) or high relief, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called a high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are molded like a round sculpture (see below). A low bas-relief looks good in any light, except for very dim, and a high relief is more advantageous in diffused light.

In residential areas, most often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to fashion a bas-relief "Klimt Tree", see for example. video tutorial below:

Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt Tree”

The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become acquainted with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand what follows and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: at one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition "Tree of Life". Her style is so peculiar that the expression "Klimt's tree" has become winged.

The reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the upper figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut deep), which is technically much more complicated. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs a bright and sharp oblique light, because. the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, at the bottom right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and smallest protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When changing the direction and angle of incidence of light, the pattern changes, up to a change in facial expression during the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: protrusions and depressions become clogged, and from cleaning they lose their shape. The picture fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in ascending order of technical complexity:

1. Plastering free, i.e. not initially fixed on the supporting surface, non-removable models;
2. Plastering non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because. allow you to get acc. high and low relief, without risking the need to redo all the work again in case of failure;
3. Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more laborious, but also suitable for beginners, because. you can pore over the model as much as you like until it is brought to the ideal. In addition, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast in one mold (mould, mold) made according to the model;
4. Artistic plaster molding in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires solid skills, but it makes it possible to create large relief panels on the entire wall, with a contour of corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief in 2-4 ways both in place and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief - drywall sheet, GKL. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), on separate sheets or their pieces of the desired shape, parts of the overall picture or finished compositions are displayed (see the figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.

The fastener heads and the joints of the fragments are puttied with the base composition, then they are plastered and rubbed under the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece spoiled by inexperience can be redone without touching the rest. And the bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; it is impossible to fasten a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, partitions made of PGB, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the supporting base should be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tool. Not very expensive, but you can not count on the success of work without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once, if you turn it inside out, and the dried residues fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful, the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the start of setting. The kneading ball reduces the wastage of shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from the ball, because. there are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 (pos. 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For the formation of bunches of grapes, scales, etc. still need convex-concave spatulas. Sets with such are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) For a set of 48 items, so lovers often use spoons of different sizes instead (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just bring out a low relief with spoons, the bend of the handle interferes. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons of aluminum and other plastic metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, a concave spatula is obtained.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To get concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter at the scoop itself, twisted and bent back when heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters clean them off old paint from the palette, and the sculptors trim the edges, cut off the burr, induce a fine texture. A palette knife is perfectly replaced by a wide shoe knife.

Next essential tool- a confectionery syringe with nozzles (pos. 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly desirable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (pos. 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are far from being as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, how cakes are decorated, everyone has seen) holding it with 2 hands; hold the tool at the tip with the left.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes of different sizes and the same number of round, cheapest ones, made of ox-ear bristles. It makes no sense to buy expensive squirrel and kolinsky for a bas-relief "steepness for the sake of", they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for drawing. Brushes induce texture (see below) and gypsum small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with the tool and caring for it

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before a set of the next portion of the mixture. Remains and drips on the working body are a guarantee of spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered in parts into water; palette knives with brushes are also placed there. When the tool sours, the remnants of working materials are thoroughly washed off from it. clean water. By the way, a properly cared for confectionery syringe after working on a bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be kept absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

The creation of a bas-relief on the walls in the apartment (or on sheets of plasterboard, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

• The base surface is cleaned of the old finish, leveled with an accuracy of at least 2 mm / m, primed and covered with a base composition or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL under the prefabricated bas-relief does not require alignment;
• A background texture is applied to the base coat: with a foam or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, texturing and toning is not required;
• In one way or another (from the above and described below), a relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, toning is possible similar to that for the base;
• If necessary, after complete drying, the relief is painted on top. It is convenient to do surface staining with special paints for gypsum stucco - they are immediately shaded into very thin halftones with a damp sponge. Sharper color transitions will give acrylic paints;
• The completely dry relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in construction stores). Paints on dried plaster moldings fade, as on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their colors;
• After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tone stucco?

From the video above it is clear that you need to form a stucco bas-relief in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, layers are applied thin, 1-2 mm each. Usually, layers of kneading the density of low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with color (pigment) for gypsum; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree, a brown pigment is taken in ever-decreasing concentration, and for leaves, green is added as it moves outward. The next layer is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. The texture with shades can be applied immediately with a brush or then rubbed with sandpaper-zero or, rough on large areas, wire brush. For more information about toning plaster moldings, see the next video.

Video: how to cover the bas-relief on the wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create high floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using as a model an inverted and lanolin-lubricated plate or bowl, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The stock solution described above is not used. It is strong, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not applied due to excessive material consumption; finished elements are painted.

For gypsum, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural gypsum is prepared. The model is dipped into it ( artificial flower, napkin) and put on a board covered with plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution sets, it is dipped again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Flowers for drying are placed each time in the same position. Thus, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster of the density of sour cream or acrylic adhesive. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering in place

This is perhaps the most affordable way to make, say, a stucco ceiling for a chandelier (see fig.) Without experience. Plastering a model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and plastered with a brush. Gypsum mortar is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, layers will be required up to 10-15 or more.

The main snag here is the material of the model. Usually they are made of polystyrene, penofol, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time, they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but anyway, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown spots that cannot be removed begin to appear on the stucco molding. Therefore, models for plastering on the spot are best sculpted from salt dough, the very one from which Christmas tree decorations are made with their own hands. To plaster, stone and other mineral building materials salty dough glued with acrylic glue or any mounting. Stucco molding on non-removable models from salt dough retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, which allows you to get results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic gypsum backcasting procedure is shown step by step on the left in fig., pos. a-e. Model 1 made of gypsum, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product that it is desirable to repeat / replicate, is placed on a flat board 2. Now, to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the board is covered with a film.

Then the model is smeared with a thin layer of lanolin. It is undesirable to use medical vaseline, the model may stick to the mold. Gypsum and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is smeared several times, allowing the lanolin to soak for an hour or two, until a solid oily sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough density with a thickness of approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffeners 5. The seized and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with bundles 7 of thin copper wire.

The next step is coating 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 with a layer up to 5 and a few more cm thick, this is already a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After the set time of cement-sand mortar 3/4 strength (7-20 days, depending on external conditions) the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield with the help of a wedge 11. Well, if the shield was covered with a film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. Flash is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its inner edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is smeared with lanolin, like a model. The casting mass fills the mold layer by layer. As soon as her last layer begins to seize, eyelets with a mustache are inserted into it (upper right in the figure), for which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebb lugs can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already sitting tightly in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is quite firm, but still slightly moist. It is unacceptable to test the strength of the fit of the lugs by rocking!

Currently for circulations up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way, they don’t pour from gypsum, the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). The model prepared, as in the previous. In this case, silicone is poured over in layers, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to obtain castings with shallow recesses, it is elastic and stretchable.

Also, small rounded gypsum parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., up to small fish. In this case, a tray-flask is molded from plasticine, the model is also molded from plasticine. Silicone is poured into the flask all at once; the flask and the model are not smeared with anything. After the silicone hardens, the flask is simply torn off, and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini - reverse casting of gypsum.

…and not vice versa

The mini-gypsum casting already uses a model to be removed; in a sense, the model disappears and for the next batch of castings it needs to be done again. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting according to an investment model, then it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings from it, but already convex, without cavities. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a plywood box without a bottom 2-3 cm higher than the height of the model and the size is such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a shield covered with foil. Then they put a flask and cover the gap along the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is layer-by-layer doused with silicone, as in the previous. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the flask is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, the plywood bottom is stuffed. The model is smelted with a household hair dryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not give.

modeling

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve the maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can buy them without signing up for the evening department of an art university or courses. It is enough to practice with plasticine; the technique is the same, only in working with gypsum time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it sets. Technically, gypsum modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

flat

The technique of flat gypsum modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules are like this. First, the material of the thickness of the dough or fatty sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed out, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. Third, the next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to a smaller tool. And fifth, in each layer, work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest. AT this case- from the denticles of the leaf to its petiole.

About branches

Branches on bas-reliefs are best removed with a confectionery syringe or, very thin, medical. The thickness of the branches is regulated by pressing the piston more and more weakly (pos. 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is induced with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plastered as a non-removable model in place.

Strongly winding branches (pos. 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream density, laying it out on a shield covered with foil, along the contour, and after drying, sticking it on the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, the cord is laid out immediately, it will dry firmly. To get branches of decreasing thickness, part of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then one is left. If the cord shines through the plaster, the branch is plastered in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted batches. The desired color is obtained by grouting with a zero sandpaper.

sharp ribs

In the pictures with bas-reliefs, you probably saw sharp ribs. They are formed by the folded thumb and forefinger, and the large ones are formed by the fingers bent back of both palms folded. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly shifting/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion along the rib formation. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

Round

The basis of round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living being. Information about skeletons can be obtained from any course in the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is not a discipline of medical, but of art education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to heal, and is designed for listeners who are not disposed to the subtleties and rigors of science.

Figure height approx. from 30-40 cm is molded along the frame as shown in pos. 1 fig. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (pos. 2), but following the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide the height by 8; 1/8 of its part will be the dimensional module of the harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (pos. 4a and 4b). It is desirable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with fixing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

• The base frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together with a thin winding. copper wire, and even better - soldering.
• Rolls of a medical bandage are soaked in a liquid, like fat-free kefir, gypsum solution, as for gypsum fractures of limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage starts to peel off badly from the skein, it means that the gypsum began to harden and the rest of the roll went to waste.
• After the plastered frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (toning can be used), adjusted in shape and texture with a tool and sandpaper, and plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. It is convenient to use a thin and fine metal mesh. Another option is the branches of the main branches, pasted over with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for home-made high reliefs are molded separately; locally is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface - resp. plane so that the figures can be glued into place.

How to fix bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If for 1 sq. dm. its supporting area accounts for more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm driven into plastic dowels are best suited for this. Attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten. The mass of the bas-relief above the protruding fixing pin should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need is a piece of drywall with a layer of fresh stock solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. From the edges of the tip of the nail, you need to carefully remove the flash to get the correct 4-sided pyramid.

Looking for a spectacular yet inexpensive way to transform your interior? Great option- gypsum stucco. The advantages of this decor are obvious: firstly, it does not require serious financial costs, secondly, it is easy to make it with your own hands, and thirdly, with it your home will acquire a true individuality. In addition, gypsum elements can have almost any shape - make sure of this by evaluating photos of such decorations in the interior. Do you want to “settle” such decor in your home? If the answer is yes, then to your attention detailed instruction and a video of making stucco at home.

Preparatory procedures

Before you start creating stucco, you need to stock up on working materials and tools, prepare a sketch of the future decor and make a mold for it.

You will need:

• spatulas and knives of various sizes;
• building plaster;
• art or construction clay;
• tassel;

• silicone-based putty;
• silicone oil;
• release agent;
• dye;
• colorless varnish.

If this is your first time doing stucco work, it is advisable to create a sketch of the future decor. Think over the design and dimensions of the product, draw a drawing on paper, and then sculpt a prototype model of jewelry from clay or plasticine.

Advice. If you are not sure that you will get a beautiful model, you can simply buy polyurethane molding prototypes - they are in all hardware stores.

• from the inside, treat the prototype model with a release agent;
• mix silicone-based putty and silicone oil;
• apply the resulting mixture to the model with a brush - the thickness of the coating should be at least 4-5 mm; the maximum size will depend on the complexity of the intended decor.

It is important to apply the silicone mixture with smooth strokes so that no air bubbles remain under it - in the future they will provoke the appearance of unaesthetic recesses that will spoil the look of the stucco molding.
When the composition dries, separate the model from the finished mold.

In fairness, it should be noted that the mold is also not necessary to do it yourself - if you want to play it safe, you can buy it in a needlework store.

Stucco making

Now proceed to the preparation of the plaster: in small portions, mix 10 parts of dry material with 7 parts of water, and then mix them thoroughly. To give the composition plasticity, add a little PVA glue - thanks to it, the risk of cracking the decor will decrease. Stir the mixture until its consistency resembles sour cream. The following is the direct process of creating stucco:

• Treat the mold with a release agent so that the plaster does not adhere to the silicone.
• Apply the first layer of plaster with a brush.

• Pour the mortar into the mould, spreading it continuously with vibrating movements to avoid air bubbles - moisture often accumulates in them, which destroys the stucco. It is necessary to fill in to the very brim - the excess mixture can be removed with a knife or spatula.

Important! Keep in mind that the gypsum mixture already after 3 minutes after kneading loses its fluidity, and after 8-10 - plasticity, so you need to pour the composition into the molds very quickly.

• Carefully level the surface of the mixture with a wide spatula.
• Approximately 20 minutes after pouring, carefully remove the plaster element from the mold. For final drying, set aside the stucco molding for a day.

Finishing and installation

When the product begins to turn white, proceed to the finishing touch-up. At this stage, you need to correct all the shortcomings and give the stucco molding a complete look. First of all, if there are irregularities, treat them with fine sandpaper. Then completely prime the back of the product.

As a result of your work, you will get a white stucco molding with an elegant slightly marble relief, but this does not have to be its final appearance - the product can be painted in any color. To do this, use water-based wall paint. If the composition is too thick, additionally dilute it with water. Apply the paint with a small brush with a soft long bristle - this way you can cover all the embossed surfaces. After the stucco has dried, treat it with clear varnish to protect the paint layer.

Now it remains to install the decor. This can be done only 3 days after pouring. Prepare before installation work surface, which will be directly decorated: clean it thoroughly and lightly moisten it with water. Then prepare an adhesive solution for fixing the stucco: mix 40% PVA glue and 60% water. First, apply the composition to the work surface, and then to the back of the stucco molding. Then, with light rubbing movements, fix the product on the surface. Residual glue must be removed quickly so that it does not dry out. If ugly joints or holes remain after installation, putty them with plaster.

Gypsum stucco is not only an excellent tool for interior decoration, but also an interesting way of creative self-expression. So, if you want to simultaneously make your home unique and show plenty of imagination, while not emptying your wallet too much, feel free to take on the manufacture of such a decor.

How to make stucco with your own hands: video

Stucco molding from plaster in the interior: photo

Many people dream of decorating their home, making it unusual and original. Behind unusual finish or interior items, we sometimes give unreasonably large amounts, not suspecting what to achieve desired effect can be done at a much lower cost. One of these budget methods interior decorations - do-it-yourself stucco molding on the wall, a master class on which we present to your attention.

Today I will show you how to make such an elegant vine branch.

For work we need:

1. Building gypsum or alabaster
2. Plasticine
3. Plastic bag
4. Picture depicting a leaf of grapes
5. Construction silicone sealant
6. Putty type Satengips (KNAUF)
7. Palette knife set
8. Primer
9. Disposable syringe
10. Water-based paint of the desired color

Stucco molding on the wall with your own hands. Training

Do-it-yourself stucco on the wall, like everyone else construction works, starts from the surface. It is not particularly necessary to level it, but to remove dust and prime it is a must.

I leave the wall to dry, and at this time I prepare the necessary forms and templates. The form will be needed for casting grapes. You can sculpt them in place, but it is much more convenient to glue the finished ones, by this moment they are already hardened, so they do not deform under pressure.

I form an oblong ball from plasticine - a grape right size. Then I make a small plasticine "cup" into which the "grape" is placed with a gap (How to make more complex plaster molding, read).

I fill the “cup” with sealant, press the plasticine blank into the silicone to the middle. I leave the silicone to dry.

I'm moving on to making a leaf pattern. In your version, these may be other details with a complex shape that is difficult to reproduce without a template. I printed from the Internet carved grape leaf, tore the package so that the film was in one layer, and transferred the sheet to it according to the sample.

When the silicone is completely frozen, I remove the template and remove the “cup”.

I breed plaster or alabaster. The solution should not be too plastic. The consistency of "sour cream" is the most suitable. I fill out the form. The "grape" does not harden for a long time. A couple of minutes is enough. For this stucco of grapes, I made 16 pcs.

Stucco molding on the wall with your own hands. Creation

When the primer is dry, it's time to create a surface for our stucco on the wall.

I spread the putty and cover the wall with it. I gave the relief with a roller.

And immediately, before the putty has hardened, I begin to create stucco. I press the grapes into the putty, forming brushes.

I outline the leaves. I carefully apply the stencil so as not to spoil the texture of the wall, I push the contour of the sheet into the putty. I remove the polyethylene. The photo is not very clear, but the print is clearly visible on the wall.

I leave the wall to dry completely, then once again cover with a primer and let it dry.

I put putty inside the contour, creating the thickness of the stucco element.

Then with an improvised tool (spatulas, palette knives of various shapes) (my palette knives are homemade)
, I give jagged edges of the sheet, form kinks and folds. In order to form a clear edge, using a palette knife, like a construction spatula, I apply a little thick putty to the edge. I correct in place and remove the excess.

I give texture to the surface with a semicircular palette knife.

I make veins on some sheets. To do this, I fill the disposable syringe with a putty of the consistency of sour cream.

It remains to make the actual vine. I thicken the connections of the leaves, form the branches. I give "naturalness" with thin longitudinal lines.

Well, actually, the stucco molding on the wall is made by hand.

After drying, I cover again with a primer. Then I paint, and immediately remove the excess paint with a damp sponge. In general, coloring is optional, you can leave it white.

Here's what happened.

Another master class on creating volumetric decor on the wall, see.

And a master class on creating a bas-relief panel for your interior.

The proposed article describes the process of making gypsum stucco from and to, which, if desired, can be made at home. Moreover, of any shape and style, but on one condition - if you know how to sculpt something from plasticine. It is not necessary to be a professional sculptor with a "volumetric" vision of objects, it is enough to be able to fashion at least a chamomile or, say, a carrot and an apple from the same plasticine :) in a bas-relief, which will later serve as a model for making a beautiful gypsum ceiling cornice in the kitchen !

Let's get to the heart of the process. As an example, the photo shows an example of making a gypsum cornice with a grape ornament.

First of all, on a segment of a smooth cornice made of polyurethane or gypsum, we sculpt a fragment of the Grapes ornament from plasticine. As you already understood, in the future it will serve as a model for the future plaster ceiling cornice with a Grape ornament.

Next, the model is covered with molding silicone, which acts as a mold for pouring plaster. In our case, we used two-component silicone SK 764, consisting of silicone (liquid rubber) and a hardener.

Mixing proportions - for 100 g of silicone, add 2 cubes (2 g) of a medium-sized syringe and carefully, with a stick, quickly mix and immediately pour onto the plasticine model.

After 24 hours, fill in the 2nd layer and immediately carefully cover it with small squares of pre-cut gauze from an ordinary medical bandage. The gauze serves as a reinforcing component for the rubber mold.

The next day, pour the 3rd layer. Everything, the form is ready! But we do not remove it from plasticine yet. The next step - you need to make a "pallet" - the basis for the resulting form of rubber. To do this, we apply a liquid solution of gypsum to the frozen silicone. We make the solution in a ratio of 1 to 1 (water and gypsum). Gypsum seizes very quickly, so you need to work with it very smartly.

The upper part of the pallet, as seen in the photo, is carefully cut off and leveled with a long paint spatula. From the beginning of work with gypsum to completion, you need to keep within about 20 minutes. As soon as the gypsum pallet seizes and cools down (during hardening, the gypsum heats up to 50 degrees due to the expansion of the gypsum structure), remove it, turn it over and put it on the table. After him, we remove the silicone mold from the plasticine, wash it in soapy water, and put it on a pallet. The mold is ready to be cast!

in a niche silicone mold pour liquid gypsum, which after hardening (20-30min) is carefully removed from the silicone.

We repeat this operation 4 times - we cast 4 fragments of the Grape ornament, which we need to assemble on the Main model of the cornice.

Looking forward to your feedback!

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The content of the article:

Stucco is architectural old tradition originating from the time of the Roman Empire and Ancient Greece. Despite the presence of many trendy interior styles, the desire to decorate their homes with such decor has not disappeared among its modern inhabitants. Today you will learn how to decorate the walls with stucco molding yourself using available materials.

Materials for the manufacture of stucco on the walls

Previously, the ornaments on the walls were made by hand. Masters applied the mass to the plaster and modeled it into patterns and reliefs, hence the name - stucco. After the appearance in the production of molding and casting, stucco turned from an expensive luxury into an affordable pleasure.

metal molds make it possible to produce any details of the ornament without any additional fine-tuning. Without losing quality, each mold can withstand more than 2000 pours. In the manufacture of stucco, much depends on the quality of its material, which, when moving from one state to another, should not give much shrinkage and cracks.

There are several such materials:

• Gypsum. It is environmentally friendly and resistant to temperature fluctuations. During hardening, the gypsum mass increases in volume, creates pressure and can penetrate even into the smallest depressions of any surface. The plasticity of the material greatly facilitates the work on gypsum lining. It is easy to process, so the molded products can be easily adjusted to the required size. In the process of working with gypsum stucco, it is easy to mask the unevenness of the walls and damage to products that may occur during their transportation. In the manufacture of such stucco moldings in a home workshop, the form filled with a solution must be shaken to remove air bubbles from it. Gypsum wall decoration with stucco molding has some disadvantages: it has a lot of weight and therefore, over time, the lining may crumble. In addition, gypsum strongly attracts moisture, which causes the formation of fungal plaque on the relief. This drawback is eliminated by applying a protective layer of paint or varnish to the stucco molding.
• Polyurethane. It is obtained by mixing polyester, diisocyanite, water, catalysts and emulsifiers. Their combination leads to a gas-forming reaction, the result of which is foamed plastic. The material is resistant to temperature fluctuations and even withstands heating up to 280°C, which allows it to be used in the design of lamps. Polyurethane stucco is perfectly glued, it is strong, light and lends itself well to coloring. It is distinguished by durability, moisture resistance, hardness, a huge variety of assortment and the purity of the relief pattern, it does not accumulate dust and does not absorb odors. Polyurethane in its density and texture corresponds to wood, but unlike it, it does not deform and does not crack over time.
• Styrofoam (polystyrene). This stucco has attractive price, although it does not differ in particular sophistication. The decor is fragile and needs to be handled with care, so it is most often used to decorate the top of walls and ceilings. The foam production process is continuous and fully automated. quality products obtained by extruding them from the molten mass. Their structure does not contain pronounced granules, the presence of which is typical for foam plastic made by foaming. Such a grain deprives the stucco of the clarity of the pattern and does not disappear even after repeated painting. Some firms make extruded polystyrene, which has an ultra-high density, the strength of which is quite comparable to wood and polyurethane.

Unlike bare walls, relief decor can rightfully be called a home “psychotherapist”. This happens because motority is alien to the human eye, and it is constantly looking for some small interior details in the form of leaves, curls and the like, on which it can rest.

Varieties of stucco products for walls

From the above materials, various stucco elements for walls and ceilings are made. It can be:

1. Garlands and medallions. Garlands, the so-called "scallops", imitate floral and floral decor entwined with ribbons. They are installed at the top of the walls and under the eaves. Medallions are decorative panels with a floral pattern, in vignettes or plain.
2. arched frames. They are made in the form of standard sections. Successfully combining them with each other, you can elegantly and effectively decorate bookshelves, a bar or the interior of a niche. These stucco elements adorn door and window openings both outside buildings and in the interiors of their premises. The installation of decorative corner elements completes the design of the doors, paneled canvases are decorated with moldings. Above the upper casing, you can fix a relief pediment and decorate its center with some kind of medallion in the form of a coat of arms, cockade, etc.
3. Overlay panels. They can decorate the surfaces of doors and walls, giving them a solemn and rich look.
4. Overhead niches. They are mounted in walls, frames for niches are sold separately. They can be selected according to your design and taste. Often the bottom of niches is made of white matte plexiglass. It allows you to organize the backlight in them. To do this, a dim lamp is installed under the glass, which, illuminating the objects installed in the niche, emphasizes their beauty and gives them unusual shades.
5. Columns and semi-columns (pilasters). They consist of three parts: the base is the bottom of the column, the trunk is its middle part, the capital is the top. The trunks are decorated with flutes - special grooves that give elegance to the details. Stucco columns can be made in different styles: Tuscan, Doric, Corinthian or Ionic. Plinths of columns, bases, stems and capitals are supplied separately. Typically, polyurethane columns do not bear mechanical load and have only decorative purpose. But if desired, their hollow samples can be made load-bearing. To do this, you need to place in the cavity of such a column metal pipe in the form of a rack that perceives the load. Gypsum columns in such cases are subject to reinforcement. Stucco columns often hide risers and pipes that run along the walls in a conspicuous place. The diameters of the columns of residential premises can be 15-35 cm, administrative - up to 60 cm.
6. Brackets and pedestals. Brackets are supports for window sills, fireplace and bookshelves and others. As corner elements, they can be installed at the junctions of the ceiling and walls or in the portals of openings. Pedestals serve as supports for decorative vases, candlesticks, sculptures and other accessories. The maximum load on such stucco molding should not exceed 50 kg. Placed on pedestals, the most ordinary objects look significant and unusual. Brackets and pedestals give the style of the room majesty and a solemn look, ennoble the angular modern architecture and can share room space on the functional areas. When installing such products, it is necessary to take into account their proportionality in relation to the size of the room. massive decorative stucco on the walls can easily "press down" small room, and vice versa - small stucco will be lost in a large space.
7. Skirting boards, cornices and moldings. They are needed to decorate doors, walls, mirror frames and furniture. This stucco visually enlarges the space and completes the interior. Eaves can beautifully arrange the connection of the ceiling with the walls. Ceiling skirting boards can hide the unevenness of the junctions. In addition, the embossed strip of skirting boards is able to decorate the connection of walls with the floor surface. Moldings are special borders used to decorate walls.
8. Ceiling sockets. They are intended to decorate part of the ceiling around the chandelier. The diameters of such sockets can be from 150 to 1000 mm.
9. Domes. They are used to decorate the ceiling space in the antique-Roman, Empire style and others. The dome can be painted, and a chandelier can be hung inside it. Domes are smooth, girdled with patterned cornices or have a stucco ornament.

Technology for mounting stucco on walls

The ceilings and walls, decorated with relief figures and ornaments, amaze with their sophistication and beauty. For this finish, gypsum, polyurethane and foam are used. Below we will look at how to work with these materials.

Wall decoration with plaster moldings

Performing stucco molding from gypsum, you can get a completely unique pattern. Possessing excellent plasticity and casting qualities, this material allows even at the manufacturing stage to work out any detail as accurately as possible, regardless of the complexity and depth of its pattern.

Before decorating the walls with gypsum stucco, it is necessary to determine the places of the room suitable for such decor. Gypsum is a rather heavy and fragile material, so the installation of products made from it is not recommended without the appropriate experience and special knowledge.

Places of placement of gypsum stucco molding should be thoroughly washed before its fastening, removing whitewash. To fix the cornice, it is necessary to draw a line on the wall indicating the boundary of its installation. Such a mark can be made in a proven way: pull the painted paint cord along the wall, stepping back from the ceiling at a distance of the width of the cornice, then pull it back and release it. The trace of the cord on the wall will indicate the desired line.

Then, on the stucco molding and the wall at the junctions, small notches should be made with a chisel. Installation of the cornice should start from the corner. The product must be cut with a hacksaw into two parts at 45 °. To fix them, use a special compound or gypsum mortar, containing 3% wood glue of the total mass of the mixture.

After preparing the surfaces of the stucco molding and the wall, they must be moistened with water and applied with a brush to the right places with adhesive material. Then, having attached the parts to the wall, they should be rubbed with light movements so that the glue fills the entire mating surface. Excess gypsum mortar can be removed with a spatula.

In the case of mounting large parts of the eaves, you need to use screws. Holes should be drilled in the wall, dowels should be hammered into them and fasteners should be screwed in. Then, in the appropriate places of the back side of the eaves, it is necessary to make holes with their expansion in depth. Then fill the holes gypsum mixture and put the eaves on the screws screwed into the wall.

Another way of fixing gypsum stucco on the wall involves fixing the products in a rigid way with screws. Attached in this way ordinary boards. Rigid fastening makes it possible to install gypsum moldings on many surfaces, including walls made of gypsum boards.

The joints between the stucco elements must be sealed with gypsum, since the uniformity of the materials used helps to avoid cracks.

Wall decoration with polyurethane moldings

Unlike the installation of gypsum elements, the installation polyurethane stucco has the greatest simplicity. High-tech production makes it possible to achieve accurate dimensions and a clear relief of such products, which completely eliminates the fitting of their parts during fastening. When installing stucco moldings, polyurethane glue and “liquid nails” are used. Manufacturers attach to their products special instructions containing the methodology and rules for its use.

All parts of polyurethane stucco molding, including glue, must be in the room where they are supposed to be installed within 24 hours before installation. This is necessary to provide the material with a comfortable temperature regime, which ensures the proper quality of the sticker of polyurethane decor elements.

Before installing stucco on the wall with your own hands, the work surface should be treated with a special deep penetration primer. Do not forget that pasting the walls with wallpaper or painting them can be done only after fixing the stucco products.

After that, you need to determine the height of the profile and mark its location on the wall. Next, you should outline and make cuts of the part for the corner joints with the help of a miter box. The joints of long spans must be cut at 45° so that they are visible from the outside of the profile as vertical straight lines. And the oblique lines of the joints should be visible only when viewed from below or from above. Such a cut achieves a maximum increase in the joint area on the adhesive, and the seam becomes invisible to the light.

Places of application of glue must be treated with fine sandpaper. After that, it should be evenly distributed along the length of the entire back side of the element. Then the stucco must be attached to the wall and lightly pressed down for gluing. To prevent the part from slipping, you can drive under the products for support on certain time small nails.

Excess glue should be removed with a spatula. After that, you can install the next element in the same way, gluing the joint with an abundant application of glue, the excess of which can then be removed with a sponge soaked in acetone. The joint of the parts can be further strengthened with brackets using a construction stapler for this.

A day after the glue has dried, the staples and nails should be removed. If there is excess glue left on the stucco, they can be cleaned with a knife and sandpaper. At the final stage, the joints between the parts must be puttied with acrylic finishing mix and sand with an abrasive fine mesh.

Wall decoration with polystyrene moldings

affordable price, a light weight and resistance to temperature extremes have made polystyrene a popular material, especially for the manufacture of facade elements for wall decoration. Unlike gypsum products, polystyrene stucco is not afraid of moisture. It is resistant to decay and chemical attack, does not contain compounds harmful to health and is easy to work even with the hands of a novice craftsman. Polystyrene stucco is used to decorate window sills, openings, gables, balustrades, pilasters and cornices.

The procedure for decorating walls with foam molding includes the stages of its manufacture and installation. Decor details are cut out of foam plastic with a hot string. Under production conditions, the shape of the product can be programmed and cut on a computer machine with maximum degree accuracy.

Then the facade stucco element is covered with a mesh made of fiberglass and a deep penetration cement-adhesive mortar that forms a protective film about 1.5 mm thick. In addition, it is an excellent basis for further painting of the product. After such procedures, the contact of the main stucco material with external environment ends. Its details stop attracting dust and gain UV resistance.

The base of the wall for the installation of polystyrene moldings must be dry, even and clean. Various chemicals and mechanical means can be used to prepare it. The cleaning process removes stains, mold and dirt from the wall. If a old plaster has voids, they should be eliminated and the surface leveled.

After completing the preparation of the base and applying the markings, the stucco parts are fixed on the wall with an adhesive mixture. In addition to fixing the product, it ensures the tight connection of the material with load-bearing structure. Excess glue is removed with a spatula, the joints of the decor are glued with a special compound for seams.

Additional fastening of stucco is made with dowels. Their hats must be deepened into the material by 3-4 mm. Depending on the type of products and their size, anchors and embedded parts can be used during installation.

Polystyrene stucco is able to imitate natural materials: wood, marble, gypsum, stone, etc. For example, foam stones, which are often decorated with corner zones, do not outwardly differ from marble or granite.

When choosing polystyrene or polyurethane stucco elements for installation, it is important to determine not only the quantity and types, but also to choose them correctly. In doing so, there are several points to be noted, which are described below.

Products can be straight and curved, which determines their purpose. For example, curved decor is used to decorate arched openings.

Some collections include additional details- outdoor and internal corners, various transitions and stubs. When buying such stucco, you should pay attention to the identity of the shades of its main and additional elements.

The sectional shape of the part is also very important. flat elements serve to decorate walls, and corner ones are installed under the ceiling. Mounting surface area corner profiles should be of sufficient size, for example, to hide electrical wiring.

Important! If the polymer stucco has uneven edges for joining parts or an erased pattern, such a model should be immediately abandoned, since it will be very difficult, and sometimes even impossible, to beautifully connect its parts.

Features of painting stucco for walls

The original design of the walls invariably attracts attention. Gypsum white stone light and elegant relief, for example, in modern design often stained. The same applies to stucco made from other materials. It is tinted according to color solution interior. Well-established technologies for the manufacture of modern dyes and methods for their application provide a huge scope for creativity.

Polyurethane stucco has two types of surfaces - primed and laminated. The primer is often the usual well-diluted paint. This consistency allows it to penetrate deep into the pores of the material. The primer is applied in 2 layers. After drying, any liquid coating can be applied to it: patination, gilding, etc. Various effects of wear or aging created with paint give the stucco a romantic touch of time. Products with a laminated surface are used exclusively indoors: such a film peels off on facades.

Gypsum stucco decoration is carried out with pigments and paint thickeners. To work with them, a sponge or pieces of cloth are used. Surface texture can be different - granite, marble, etc. Gypsum can be decorated with patina or wax, making it velvety or glossy. If funds are available, gypsum stucco molding is gilded with foil: in this way, fragments or individual details of the ornament stand out. Enamel "silver" gives the products a noble shade and enhances the outlines of their relief.

Polyurethane and gypsum moldings can also be coated with any oil or water-based paints. If the products are of high quality, a good result of their coloring can be obtained using a pneumatic paint sprayer.

How to fix stucco on the walls - look at the video:

A well-chosen decor completely transforms and enriches the interior of the room. If you make stucco molding on the walls, ordinary rooms with this design can become elegant and cozy apartments, in which various shades of emotions reign - from prim severity to festive splendor. The interior receives a harmonious completeness and tone of high style.