How to make gypsum stucco with your own hands. Do-it-yourself solutions for stucco molding and stucco work: simple, fast, beautiful. The process of creating stucco with your own hands

Looking for a spectacular yet inexpensive way to transform your interior? An excellent option is plaster molding. The advantages of such a decor are obvious: firstly, it does not require serious financial costs, secondly, it is easy to do it yourself, and thirdly, your home will acquire a true individuality with it. In addition, gypsum elements can have almost any shape - make sure of this by evaluating photos of such decorations in the interior. Do you want to “settle” such decor in your home? If the answer is yes, to your attention are detailed instructions and a video for making stucco at home.

Preparatory procedures

Before you start creating stucco, you need to stock up on working materials and tools, prepare a sketch of the future decor and make a mold for it.

You will need:

• spatulas and knives of various sizes;
• building plaster;
• art or construction clay;
• tassel;

• silicone-based putty;
• silicone oil;
• release agent;
• dye;
• colorless varnish.

If this is your first time doing stucco work, it is advisable to create a sketch of the future decor. Think over the design and dimensions of the product, draw a drawing on paper, and then sculpt a prototype model of jewelry from clay or plasticine.

Advice. If you are not sure that you will get a beautiful model, you can simply buy polyurethane molding prototypes - they are in all hardware stores.

• from the inside, treat the prototype model with a release agent;
• mix silicone-based putty and silicone oil;
• apply the resulting mixture to the model with a brush - the thickness of the coating should be at least 4-5 mm; the maximum size will depend on the complexity of the intended decor.

It is important to apply the silicone mixture with smooth strokes so that no air bubbles remain under it - in the future they will provoke the appearance of unaesthetic recesses that will spoil the look of the stucco molding.
When the composition dries, separate the model from the finished mold.

In fairness, it should be noted that the mold also does not have to be made by hand - if you want to play it safe, you can buy it at a needlework store.

Stucco making

Now proceed to the preparation of the plaster: in small portions, mix 10 parts of dry material with 7 parts of water, and then mix them thoroughly. To give the composition plasticity, add a little PVA glue - thanks to it, the risk of cracking the decor will decrease. Stir the mixture until the consistency resembles sour cream. The following is the direct process of creating stucco:

• Treat the mold with a release agent so that the plaster does not adhere to the silicone.
• Apply the first layer of plaster with a brush.

• Pour the mortar into the mould, spreading it continuously with a vibrating motion to avoid the formation of air bubbles - moisture often accumulates in them, which destroys the stucco molding. It is necessary to fill in to the very brim - the excess mixture can be removed with a knife or spatula.

Important! Keep in mind that the gypsum mixture loses its fluidity already after 3 minutes after kneading, and after 8-10 - plasticity, so you need to pour the composition into the molds very quickly.

• Carefully level the surface of the mixture with a wide spatula.
• Approximately 20 minutes after pouring, carefully remove the plaster element from the mold. For final drying, set aside the stucco molding for a day.

Finishing and installation

When the product begins to turn white, proceed to the finishing touch-up. At this stage, you need to correct all the shortcomings and give the stucco molding a complete look. First of all, if there are irregularities, treat them with fine sandpaper. Then completely prime the back of the product.

As a result of your work, you will get a white stucco molding with an elegant slightly marble relief, but this does not have to be its final appearance - the product can be painted in any color. To do this, use water-based wall paint. If the composition is too thick, additionally dilute it with water. Apply the paint with a small brush with a soft long bristle - this way you can cover all the embossed surfaces. After the stucco has dried, treat it with clear varnish to protect the paint layer.

Now it remains to install the decor. This can be done only 3 days after pouring. Before installation, you need to prepare the work surface that will be directly decorated: clean it thoroughly and slightly moisten it with water. Then prepare an adhesive solution for fixing the stucco: mix 40% PVA glue and 60% water. First, apply the composition to the work surface, and then to the back of the stucco molding. Then, with light rubbing movements, fix the product on the surface. Residual glue must be removed quickly so that it does not dry out. If ugly joints or holes remain after installation, putty them with plaster.

Gypsum stucco is not only an excellent tool for interior decoration, but also an interesting way of creative self-expression. So, if you want to simultaneously make your home unique and show plenty of imagination, while not emptying your wallet too much, feel free to take on the manufacture of such a decor.

How to make stucco with your own hands: video

Stucco molding from plaster in the interior: photo

Gypsum decor is diverse, which allows it to be used in interiors of any style, size and purpose. To decorate a house with relief decor, it is not necessary to purchase ready-made elements or order them in workshops. It is not difficult to work with alabaster, it is enough to study the technology and features of the material. From the article you will learn how to make gypsum stucco with your own hands.

When we see intricate embossed decorations, it's hard to believe that we can do it ourselves at home. The secret lies in the fact that such decor is not molded, but cast in special patterns. Sculpting an elegant figure from alabaster is accessible to people with artistic skills. Additional devices help the rest to create gypsum products with their own hands at home. They greatly facilitate the process of obtaining decor.

How to choose material?

The appearance and durability of the jewelry depends on the correctly selected raw materials. Experts recommend using alabaster grades from G5 to G25. For large works, stamps from G4 to G7 are suitable. The powder is sold dry in paper bags from 5 to 30 kg. In order for do-it-yourself gypsum products to be white and durable, it is recommended to purchase raw materials in large hardware stores or in specialized markets.

Alabaster packages

Advice! When purchasing gypsum by weight, make sure that there are no sand impurities, caked lumps. The color should be uniform, fine grinding.

Some manufacturers produce raw materials marked "for artistic stucco". Works from it are distinguished by increased whiteness. It is fine-grained, durable, with a high solidification rate.

In departments for needlework or hardware stores, special gypsum plasters are sold - containers for pouring the mixture into the model. Previously used rubber balls cut in half. By squeezing one edge of the plaster, it is convenient to fill the details of the template with the contents.

Preparatory activities

Do-it-yourself stucco molding from gypsum at home is created in stages:

1. Determine the size, model of future jewelry. It is necessary to plan in which part of the room the elements will be located. Dimensions, decor design should harmoniously complement the style of the room.
2. Make a paper sketch in full size. Based on the drawing, mold a model of a relief decoration from construction or art plasticine.
3. You can order a prototype of the future work in the workshop, buy a polyurethane analogue.
4. Make an impression based on the received sample.
5. Cast the product and process it.

Advice! You should not install large complex stucco decoration in small rooms. It will look out of place, make the space heavier. It is better to give preference to concise images of small sizes.

Before proceeding with production, it is necessary to prepare the place. Well, if it is a separate room - a garage or a workshop. In the absence of such a room, when work will be carried out in a residential area, nearby surfaces must be covered with a film to protect dust from dirt.

For work, you will need a table or other surface corresponding to the size of the elements. It is important that the countertop is absolutely flat, horizontal. This can be achieved with a level.

In the process of creation, you will need tools and materials:

• construction plasticine;
• beaker;
• gypsum;
• spatulas of different sizes;
• stationery knife;
• narrow brush;
• silicone;
• separating liquid, silicone oil, ordinary oil or soap solution;
• masking net or gauze.

Making a mold

In order for gypsum stucco molding to look beautiful with your own hands, you need to choose or make the right matrix for casting yourself. This should not save money or time. Cheap templates stretch, have inaccuracies, and can tear. Metal patterns are of high quality and durability. They cost many times more expensive, they are usually made to order.

Silicone is suitable for home creating a template. When handling it, you need to take into account the features:

• less durable than metal;
• the composition does not spread well over the workpiece.

These problems are solvable. For greater strength, under the silicone template, a frame is made of alabaster or other rigid material (plastic, wood). To make the gypsum mortar easier to distribute over the impression, the latter is lubricated with a liquid that improves sliding.

The finished model is covered with silicone using a brush. At this stage, it is important to avoid bubbles, which will lead to irregularities in the plaster decor. After applying the first layer, reinforcement is made - gauze is laid, then repeated 2-3 more times. The thickness of the silicone should be 3-5 mm. Gauze should not be stretched so that when compressed it does not deform the product. Each layer of silicone dries for 2-3 hours.

After the final drying, the silicone blank is removed from the model. For greater stability, a frame or base is constructed. The first is made from boards according to the size of the workpiece. The second is cast from alabaster. It repeats the outlines of the silicone template and does not allow it to change when pouring plaster.

Removing the silicone mold from the model

Advice! For small stucco units, ready-made silicone blanks are suitable for creating soap, candles, and confectionery. They are presented in a wide range in the departments for creativity.

Solution preparation

In order for gypsum stucco molding to turn out beautiful and durable with your own hands, you should choose high-quality dry raw materials. They differ in composition. Some manufacturers add additional components that make working with the mixture more convenient, and the final thing is highly durable.

Cooking rules:

1. The solution is prepared in small parts in order to have time to distribute the entire amount in containers.
2. First, water is poured, then the powder is poured, but not vice versa. Otherwise, lumps will form, the mixture will not work.
3. The ratio of parts of water and alabaster is 10 to 7.
4. The liquid is cold.
5. The consistency of the solution resembles liquid sour cream.
6. First, gypsum is poured into water, allowed to settle. Then mix thoroughly. A small volume is stirred with a spatula; for a significant amount, a drill with a mixer attachment is used.
7. To improve the plasticity of the composition, and so that the finished product does not crack, PVA glue is mixed into the mixture.
8. Cement is added to increase strength.

Solution preparation

Beginners in handling gypsum should know the features of the material:

• the liquid solution is plastic;
• hardens quickly;
• when drying, the alabaster expands;
• the final product is fragile, especially small parts.

The solution hardens within 5 minutes. During this time, it is necessary to complete all the blanks. For those who are faced with such work for the first time, the task will be impossible. The hardening mixture will not penetrate into all recesses, especially small and narrow ones.

Advice! To slow down the hardening of the gypsum mixture, add a gelatinous or mezdrovy adhesive solution, borax, slaked or quicklime. They allow you to delay hardening by 30-35 minutes.

In some cases the curing needs to be accelerated, for example if a figure is being formed on a wall. The easiest way is to pour hot water. And also for this purpose add alum, sodium sulfate or ordinary table salt.

Creation technology

First, a silicone pattern is prepared - it is cleaned of dust and small particles. To facilitate the removal of the plaster figure, a silicone release agent is applied to the template. To do this, brush the entire surface with a brush, leaving no uncovered places. In untreated places, the composition will firmly seize, it will be problematic to remove the hardened product without damage.

The prepared solution is poured into greased matrices. It is recommended to do this in two steps:

1. Apply the first layer of gypsum mixture with a brush. In this case, you need to make sure that there are no air bubbles. When they burst, depressions, shells form on the figure, the surface will not be uniform and smooth.
2. Fill the container to the brim.

Advice! Large-sized or works with fine details are recommended to be reinforced with fittings. To do this, after applying the first layer of gypsum, a paint grid is placed in the mold. Then fill in the remaining space.

After, the structure must be gently shaken to release air bubbles. The back part must be leveled with a spatula. If it turns out to be bumpy, then fixing it on the wall or ceiling will be unreliable. And also gaps between the figure and the wall will be noticeable. Additional efforts will be required to cover the cracks and leveling.

The gypsum solution is kept for 20 minutes, after which it is carefully removed. If this is done earlier, then the alabaster that has not fully set will be damaged. If left for a longer time, the plaster will harden strongly and seize with the silicone template. Removal may result in deformities.

The finished part is left to dry for a day. The air temperature should not be lower than +16℃.

Drying finished parts

Finishing work

If all the steps are done according to the instructions described, then the stucco molding with your own hands should turn white after 24 hours of drying. At this stage, the part is polished, defects are removed, and brought to the desired look. For smoothing, use fine sandpaper. It is necessary to act carefully so as not to damage the fragile part. Then the parts are coated with a primer.

Grinding finished products

The plaster figure has a matte white color. Having covered it with a colorless varnish, we get a decoration ready for installation. Alabaster stucco molding of a natural shade is used in many interiors. But if, according to the idea, the figure should have a different color, then it is painted with water-based paint or patinated. Coloring is more convenient to do before attaching the parts.

Mounting Features

Three days after the tide is out, the figures are ready for installation. Gypsum units of small sizes are fixed on the adhesive composition. It consists of PVA glue and water in a ratio of 1 to 1.5. Previously, notches are made on the back side for better adhesion to the surface. Glue is applied to the wall or ceiling, to the element. Then connect with rubbing movements. In this case, excess glue will come out at the edges. They are removed with a spatula until they harden.

Large figures are heavy. They are additionally fixed with dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the product and screws are screwed into the wall or ceiling. The resulting recesses are covered with a gypsum mixture and polished. The cracks are rubbed with the same composition and the figure is corrected if necessary.

Tips and a description of the technology on how to make gypsum products with your own hands will help you make a unique decor for your apartment or house. Tastefully selected three-dimensional composition will create a harmonious space with a special mood.

Who said that stucco has no place in a modern interior? It's all about the number and design of the elements. Walls, ceilings, niches, fireplace facades, window and door openings are decorated with relief decor. The shape of the stucco is also different. Let's look at some types.

Socket

Gypsum sockets are used for the base under the central chandelier. In classic interiors, it has a round shape with various ornaments. The options are extensive, in the rooms of modern styles they are found in the form of geometric patterns, abstract figures.

Plaster rosette on the ceiling

panel

They make out part of the wall inside the room or outside. A variety of plots of the picture allows you to organically fit three-dimensional images into the interior, highlighting a certain wall. If there are defects on the surface, then thanks to the panel they can be hidden.

Gypsum panel

Gypsum panel

plinth

One of the most popular stucco forms in interiors of any style. They are decorated with junctions of walls with a ceiling or floor. By varying the width of the plinth, visually increase or decrease the height of the ceiling. Often they are painted in a contrasting color with the walls, which gives the room solidity.

Ceiling plinth in the interior

Molding

Another popular stucco decor. Smooth moldings without a pattern are suitable for rooms in a minimalist style, high-tech, modern classics. Products with various ornaments will look good in baroque, art deco, classic styles.

Gypsum molding in the interior

Gypsum molding in the interior

Cornice

More often, cornices are found in the exterior decoration of buildings, but are also popular for interior decoration. They emphasize the junction of the wall with the ceiling. In modern apartments, this type of stucco is installed as part of the lighting solution. Between the eaves and the ceiling, a space is left in which the LED strip or other light sources are laid.

Gypsum cornice in the interior

Gables

Came to interior design from classical architecture. In rooms, gables are installed above door and window openings, arches, built-in wardrobes. Traditionally, they have the shape of a triangular vault, which is not always appropriate in living rooms. The clear geometry makes the space uncomfortable, and the size of the element allows it to be used only in spacious rooms. In this case, the option with a gap at the top is used. The figure becomes less elongated and takes on an interesting shape.

Gables in the interior

Gables in the interior

3D panels

Decorative gypsum panels are a trend in modern interiors. They decorate the walls, giving them expressiveness and interesting texture. They are dyed and tinted. Thanks to the illumination, the convex parts of the structure emphasize the three-dimensionality.

Arch

This element is used to decorate door and window openings, to divide space and design niches. Classical have the form of a regular arc. Modern options are represented by a wide variety: square, irregular in shape, with niches and lighting.

Gypsum arch in the interior

How to restore

Over time or with mechanical damage, the gypsum decoration is destroyed. In this case, the restoration of worn parts or their complete replacement will be required.

When restoring measures take into account the recommendations:

• Before starting the reconstruction, it is necessary to study the scale and type of damage, then choose the appropriate method of exposure or masking.
• If a small fragment is destroyed, replacement is not required. Existing damage is repaired directly on the element.
• If the stucco has changed color in case of getting wet or dirty, the whole product is painted in a color suitable for the interior. Suitable for water based paint.
• Artistic painting will help to hide minor scratches. To do this, use oil paints.
• In case of loss of a significant part, restoration work is carried out by referring to the photograph, if available.
• If there is no photograph of the lost part, then a new one is made, taking into account the general style of the room.
• During restoration, cracks and seams are opened and re-sealed with fresh mortar.
• Weakly fixed parts are removed, the surfaces are leveled and fixed again. In this case, double fastening is recommended - with glue and dowels.
• If the paint has come off on the area of ​​the figure, the entire element is painted. Otherwise, the color of the freshly coated area will be different. To do this, the old layer is peeled off the part, the surface is ground, primed and coated with the desired color.

Restoration stages

To restore the relief decorations that have lost their original appearance, no special skills are required. It is enough to get acquainted with the technology and find out the important nuances of the work:

1. The first step is cleaning from dirt and dust.
2. The next step will be the release of surfaces from layers of varnish, glue, emulsion, oils. To achieve this, a thick paste is applied to the gypsum product, which is removed after drying.
3. The activities carried out will help to get an idea of ​​​​the original form.
4. If a chip occurs, and its fragments are preserved, they are glued together. The use of original parts in the restoration simplifies the task.
5. If a significant fragment is missing, it is recast.

In some cases, the stucco loses its original color, then re-staining will be required:

• If possible, use the same paint that was used the first time.
• Before painting, the surface is impregnated with a primer. If the decor is varnished, then priming is not required.
• The consistency of the paint is adjusted to the desired, diluting with water.
• Paint with a long bristled brush. It allows you to apply paint to hard-to-reach places.
• To create the effect of a different texture, the paint is applied with a sponge with patting movements.
• To give the effect of antiquity, patination of individual parts is used, and gilding is also done.

Restoration of plaster products

Gypsum is easy to restore - this is another advantage of the material. If some parts of the decor were damaged, they can be restored with your own hands.

Having learned how to make stucco molding with your own hands, you can safely proceed to the implementation of original ideas or make simple elements. The main thing is that you will enjoy the creative process, and a hand-made thing will please the eye and be the pride of the owner of the home.

Once upon a time, interior decoration with stucco and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is only a matter of labor and patience. The achievements of modern technologies make it possible to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have an art education, but who are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in fig. below, quite within the power of a patient and attentive amateur.

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco molding - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco molding can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name "acrylic plasters". How to gain the volume of a bas-relief with building putty compounds can be found in the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Amateurs also use the basic composition of architectural gypsum, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5 by volume. Gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and closed with water, i.e. water is added to the mixture, and not vice versa. Bring to a consistency from dough to yogurt or fat-free kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The density of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

The bas-relief on the wall is made in low relief (top left in the figure) or high relief, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called a high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are molded like a round sculpture (see below). A low bas-relief looks good in any light, except for very dim, and a high relief is more advantageous in diffused light.

In residential areas, most often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to fashion a bas-relief "Klimt Tree", see for example. video tutorial below:

Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt Tree”

The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become acquainted with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand what follows and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: at one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition "Tree of Life". Her style is so peculiar that the expression "Klimt's tree" has become winged.

The reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the upper figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut deep), which is technically much more complicated. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs a bright and sharp oblique light, because. the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, at the bottom right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and smallest protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When changing the direction and angle of incidence of light, the pattern changes, up to a change in facial expression during the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: protrusions and depressions become clogged, and from cleaning they lose their shape. The picture fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in ascending order of technical complexity:

1. Plastering free, i.e. not initially fixed on the supporting surface, non-removable models;
2. Plastering non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because. allow you to get acc. high and low relief, without risking the need to redo all the work again in case of failure;
3. Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more laborious, but also suitable for beginners, because. you can pore over the model as much as you like until it is brought to the ideal. In addition, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast in one mold (mould, mold) made according to the model;
4. Artistic plaster molding in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires solid skills, but it makes it possible to create large relief panels on the entire wall, with a contour of corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief in 2-4 ways both in place and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief is a plasterboard sheet, plasterboard. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts of the overall picture or finished compositions are displayed on separate sheets or their pieces of the desired shape (see figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.

The fastener heads and the joints of the fragments are puttied with the base composition, then they are plastered and rubbed under the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece spoiled by inexperience can be redone without touching the rest. And the bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; it is impossible to fasten a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, partitions made of PGB, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the supporting base should be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tools. Not very expensive, but you can not count on the success of work without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once, if you turn it inside out, and the dried residues fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful, the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the start of setting. The kneading ball reduces the wastage of shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from the ball, because. there are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 (pos. 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For the formation of bunches of grapes, scales, etc. still need convex-concave spatulas. Sets with such are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) For a set of 48 items, so lovers often use spoons of different sizes instead (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just bring out a low relief with spoons, the bend of the handle interferes. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons of aluminum and other plastic metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, a concave spatula is obtained.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To get concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter at the scoop itself, twisted and bent back when heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters use them to clean off old paint from the palette, and sculptors trim the edges, cut off the burr, and create a fine texture. A palette knife is perfectly replaced by a wide shoe knife.

The next necessary tool is a confectionery syringe with nozzles (pos. 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly desirable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (pos. 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are far from being as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, how cakes are decorated, everyone has seen) holding it with 2 hands; hold the tool at the tip with the left.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes of different sizes and the same number of round, cheapest ones, made of ox-ear bristles. It makes no sense to buy expensive squirrel and kolinsky for a bas-relief "steepness for the sake of", they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for drawing. Brushes induce texture (see below) and gypsum small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with the tool and caring for it

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before a set of the next portion of the mixture. Remains and drips on the working body are a guarantee of spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered in parts into water; palette knives with brushes are also placed there. When the tool rots, the remnants of working materials are thoroughly washed off with clean water. By the way, a properly cared for confectionery syringe after working on a bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be kept absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

The creation of a bas-relief on the walls in the apartment (or on sheets of plasterboard, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

• The base surface is cleaned of the old finish, leveled with an accuracy of at least 2 mm / m, primed and covered with a base composition or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL under the prefabricated bas-relief does not require alignment;
• A background texture is applied to the base coat: with a foam or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, shaping and toning is not required;
• In one way or another (from the above and described below), a relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, toning is possible similar to that for the base;
• If necessary, after complete drying, the relief is painted on top. It is convenient to do surface staining with special paints for gypsum stucco - they are immediately shaded into very thin halftones with a damp sponge. Sharper color transitions will give acrylic paints;
• The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in hardware stores). Paints on dried plaster moldings fade, as on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their colors;
• After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tone stucco?

From the video above it is clear that you need to form a stucco bas-relief in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, layers are applied thin, 1-2 mm each. Usually, layers of kneading the density of low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with color (pigment) for gypsum; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree, a brown pigment is taken in ever-decreasing concentration, and for leaves, green is added as it moves outward. The next layer is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. The texture with shades can be applied immediately with a brush or then rubbed with sandpaper-zero or, rough on large areas, with a metal brush. For more information about toning plaster moldings, see the next video.

Video: how to cover the bas-relief on the wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create high floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using as a model an inverted and lanolin-lubricated plate or bowl, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The stock solution described above is not used. It is strong, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not applied due to excessive material consumption; finished elements are painted.

For gypsum, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural gypsum is prepared. A model (an artificial flower, a napkin) is dipped into it and placed on a board covered with a plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution sets, it is dipped again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Flowers for drying are placed each time in the same position. Thus, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster of sour cream density or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering in place

This is perhaps the most affordable way to make, say, a stucco ceiling for a chandelier (see fig.) Without experience. Plastering a model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and plastered with a brush. Gypsum mortar is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, layers will be required up to 10-15 or more.

The main snag here is the material of the model. Usually they are made of polystyrene, penofol, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time, they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but anyway, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown spots that cannot be removed begin to appear on the stucco molding. Therefore, models for plastering on the spot are best sculpted from salt dough, the very one from which Christmas tree decorations are made with their own hands. Salt dough is glued to plaster, stone and other mineral building materials with acrylic adhesive or any mounting adhesive. Stucco molding on non-removable models from salt dough retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, which allows you to get results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic gypsum backcasting procedure is shown step by step on the left in fig., pos. a-e. Model 1 made of gypsum, plasticine, plastic, etc., or a model product that is desirable to be repeated/replicated, is placed on a flat board 2. Now, to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the board is covered with a film.

Then the model is smeared with a thin layer of lanolin. It is undesirable to use medical vaseline, the model may stick to the mold. Gypsum and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is smeared several times, allowing the lanolin to soak for an hour or two, until a solid oily sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough density with a thickness of approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffeners 5. The seized and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with bundles 7 of thin copper wire.

The next step is coating 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 with a layer up to 5 and a few more cm thick, this is already a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After a set time of 3/4 strength with a cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, if the shield was covered film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. Flash is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its inner edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is smeared with lanolin, like a model. The casting mass fills the mold layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyelets with a mustache are inserted into it (top right in the figure), for which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebb lugs can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already sitting tightly in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is quite firm, but still slightly moist. It is unacceptable to test the strength of the fit of the lugs by rocking!

Currently for circulations up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way, they don’t pour from gypsum, the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). The model prepared, as in the previous. In this case, silicone is poured over in layers, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to obtain castings with shallow recesses, it is elastic and stretchable.

Also, small rounded gypsum parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., up to small fish. In this case, a tray-flask is molded from plasticine, the model is also molded from plasticine. Silicone is poured into the flask all at once; the flask and the model are not smeared with anything. After the silicone hardens, the flask is simply torn off, and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini - reverse casting of gypsum.

…and not vice versa

The mini-gypsum casting already uses a model to be removed; in a sense, the model disappears and for the next batch of castings it needs to be done again. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting according to an investment model, then it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings from it, but already convex, without cavities. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood 2-3 cm higher than the height of the model and the size is such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a shield covered with foil. Then they put a flask and cover the gap along the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is layer-by-layer doused with silicone, as in the previous. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the flask is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, the plywood bottom is stuffed. The model is smelted with a household hair dryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not give.

modeling

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve the maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can buy them without signing up for the evening department of an art university or courses. It is enough to practice with plasticine; the technique is the same, only in working with gypsum time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it sets. Technically, gypsum modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

flat

The technique of flat gypsum modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules are like this. First, the material of the thickness of the dough or fatty sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed out, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. Third, the next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to a smaller tool. And fifth, in each layer, work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest. In this case, from the denticles of the leaf to its petiole.

About branches

Branches on bas-reliefs are best removed with a confectionery syringe or, very thin, medical. The thickness of the branches is regulated by pressing the piston more and more weakly (pos. 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is induced with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plastered as a non-removable model in place.

Strongly winding branches (pos. 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream density, laying it out on a shield covered with foil, along the contour, and after drying, sticking it on the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, the cord is laid out immediately, it will dry firmly. To get branches of decreasing thickness, part of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then one is left. If the cord shines through the plaster, the branch is plastered in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted batches. The desired color is obtained by grouting with a zero sandpaper.

sharp ribs

In the pictures with bas-reliefs, you probably saw sharp ribs. They are formed by the folded thumb and forefinger, and the large ones are formed by the fingers bent back of both palms folded. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly shifting/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion along the rib formation. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

Round

The basis of round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living being. Information about skeletons can be obtained from any course in the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is not a discipline of medical, but of art education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to heal, and is designed for listeners who are not disposed to the subtleties and rigors of science.

Figure height approx. from 30-40 cm is molded along the frame as shown in pos. 1 fig. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (pos. 2), but following the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide the height by 8; 1/8 of its part will be a dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (pos. 4a and 4b). It is desirable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with fixing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

• The base frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together with a winding of thin copper wire, and even better - soldering.
• Rolls of a medical bandage are soaked in a liquid, like fat-free kefir, gypsum solution, as for gypsum fractures of limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage starts to peel off badly from the skein, it means that the gypsum began to harden and the rest of the roll went to waste.
• After the plastered frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (tinting can be used), adjusted in shape and texture with a tool and sandpaper, and plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. It is convenient to use a thin and fine metal mesh. Another option is the branches of the main branches, pasted over with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for home-made high reliefs are molded separately; locally is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface - resp. plane so that the figures can be glued into place.

How to fix bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If for 1 sq. dm. its supporting area accounts for more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm driven into plastic dowels are best suited for this. Attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten. The mass of the bas-relief above the protruding fixing pin should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need is a piece of drywall with a layer of fresh stock solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. From the edges of the tip of the nail, you need to carefully remove the flash to get the correct 4-sided pyramid.

Gypsum stucco has been used for several centuries to decorate luxurious interiors and. Skillfully executed even in a small amount completely transforms the space, favorably emphasizes its style and dignity. With the help of gypsum elements, you can adjust the area and hide flaws on the walls and ceiling. In the review of the editors of Homius, we have prepared a story about the main advantages and disadvantages of the material, as well as how to make gypsum stucco with your own hands.

Stucco molding from plaster in a modern interior

Gypsum is a finishing material. Stucco molding is made from it, which, like the ceiling, gives the interior sophistication and originality. With its help, unusual elements are created, it helps to hide small defects in surfaces and communications. In some styles, columns and semi-columns are made from this material, as well as decorations for fireplaces, window and door openings.

Gypsum with protective additives and impregnations is suitable as an exterior finish, as it is quite hygroscopic and subject to mechanical stress. It is desirable to protect products from direct exposure to precipitation. The stucco molding on the facade walls looks luxurious. The building, decorated with elaborate elements, immediately stands out against the background of the same type of monumental buildings.

Related article:

: what is it, what are the advantages and disadvantages, main types, composition, manufacturers, main selection criteria, self-assembly steps, application options with photos and cost - read in the publication.

Types of plaster moldings for interior decoration

Gypsum stucco molding is made using different technologies:

• filling in the form;
• casting with broach;
• molding by hand.

The technologies are simple, they can be mastered at home, in addition, this is a great idea for a small business, since there are not so many real plaster molding masters.

Let us consider in more detail what elements are used for interior decoration of the interior.

Basic elements for the ceiling

In the interior, gypsum products, most often, decorate the ceiling. In past centuries, decorative elements were used mainly for estates and palaces, in our time they are increasingly being chosen to decorate living rooms, and not only.

It is interesting! Stucco molding on the ceiling, most often, has a white color, but many decorate it using the art painting technique, and also tint the convex elements with gold paint.

The following decorative elements are made for the ceiling.

Gypsum products for walls

For decorating wall surfaces, the following elements of their gypsum are most often used:

• panels, bas-reliefs, medallions - a stucco composition acts as an independent element or serves as part of a complex decoration;
• pedestals and brackets - decorative elements that are used to attach individual items to wall surfaces;
• pilasters, columns and semi-columns - an architectural decor that acts as a visual support for the ceiling surface;
• niches - recesses in the wall surface, they are often used for mounting shelves or as a decorative accent;
• scallops - stucco molding in the form of a floral decorative element, most often it is used in the upper part of the wall surface;
• frames, they are smooth or embossed and serve as an independent decor or for framing paintings or other decorations.

This should be known! In the process of choosing and installing gypsum stucco, it is important to observe the proportionality of the decor relative to the area and height of the room. In a small space, massive elements will look bulky, and vice versa, small details will be lost in a large one.

All the pros and cons of using plaster decor in the interior

The use of gypsum stucco molding as a decoration gives the interior originality and luxury. Elegant details allow you to create unusual effects, in addition, they successfully mask the errors in the finish and help to interestingly design the butt joints of surfaces, as well as beat protruding communications, equipment, and wiring.

Let's highlight the main advantages of gypsum elements:

• environmental friendliness;
• fire safety;
• hygroscopicity;
• resistance to high and low temperatures;
• maintainability;
• perfect lines and beautiful relief;
• surfaces can be painted.

Given the strengths of gypsum, it can be used for almost all interiors, however, before that, you should familiarize yourself with their shortcomings:

• gypsum stucco is vulnerable to mechanical stress;
• installation has its own difficulties;
• hygroscopicity - a characteristic in some cases acts as a virtue, but in some rooms, as well as for outdoor use, this is a big drawback.

Technology for the production of gypsum stucco

For independent production of stucco, white gypsum without caked lumps is suitable. It should not contain impurities in the form of sand. After mixing, the solidification time of the solution ranges from 6-30 minutes.

Solution preparation

To increase the hardening time, various surfactants, glue, lime or borax are added. As a percentage, additives should be from 0.2% to 2% of the total mass of gypsum. Hot water, salt, alum, or sodium sulfate are used to shorten the time.

The amount of water depends on the quality of the gypsum. For fine grinding, the liquid will take less than for coarse. One and a half kilograms of powder will require a liter of liquid, for a thicker consistency the ratio will be 2 to 1, for liquid - 1 to 1.

This should be known! Gypsum during solidification generates heat, the composition increases in volume by 1%, this must be taken into account when filling out the form.

Do-it-yourself stucco creation

For the manufacture of stucco, you will need a form with a decorative ornament. For a better distribution of the composition, the inner walls should be lubricated with a mixture of kerosene and stearin, oil is also suitable. Further, the algorithm of actions is as follows.

1. Fill the template with the solution.
2. Vibrate or shake to remove all air bubbles from the inside.
3. Level the surface with a spatula and leave for 20-30 minutes for complete solidification.
4. Carefully remove the workpiece and put it to dry for a day.

You can make a silicone mold at home, the whole process is described in detail on the video:

Photo examples of decorative decoration of interiors with plaster moldings

Today, decorative stucco molding is used to decorate interiors designed not only in classical, but also in Empire, Baroque, Renaissance and many other design options. We offer you to look at the photo gallery of interesting solutions for the use of gypsum decor.

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Installation of plaster moldings

Installation of gypsum stucco molding is a simple process, but it requires a professional approach and accuracy. Let us consider in more detail the installation of small elements and large parts with a notch.

Small decor

For gluing small elements, a mixture of PVA glue and finishing putty is suitable. On the reverse side of the products, it is necessary to apply notches to improve the adhesion of the material. Before work, the entire ceiling or inserts on which the parts will be glued should be primed.

Let's get to work.

Illustration	Action Description
	Preliminary priming of elements by full immersion.
	Make markings on the ceiling at the places where the stucco is attached.
	Knead the mixture of PVA and putty, draw it into a large syringe, apply along the perimeter of the back side of the workpiece.
	Fix the elements on the ceiling according to the markup.
	Use a spatula to remove excess mixture from the surface.
	Spread the rest of the mixture over the stucco with a brush.
	Polish the blanks with fine sandpaper.

After complete drying of the composition, the surface can be painted. In more detail, the entire progress of the work is presented in the video:

Features of the installation of large products

The installation of large elements of gypsum stucco has its own characteristics, we will consider the entire technological process in more detail.

Illustration	Action Description
	Attach the workpiece to the surface and mark the borders with a pencil.
	Make a mark according to the marks.
	Make notches between the marks to improve the adhesion of the material to the surface. Remove dust with a brush and prime.
	Prepare a solution of putty, gypsum and PVA glue.
	Measure the distance and cut the stucco into fragments, make notches on the reverse side and prime.
	Apply the composition to the back of the workpiece and distribute with a notched trowel.
	Attach the workpiece to the surface with force and fix it on four sides with . Remove excess with a spatula and sand the edges with sandpaper.
	Fasten all the elements in the same way, saw down the corner molding at an angle of 45º.
	Fill the joints with mortar, unscrew the screws, process and grind the surfaces, then paint.

In more detail, the entire installation can be viewed on the video:

The use of gypsum stucco in different styles

Before you choose stucco molding as a room decoration, you should consider the style and interior design.

Roman style and art deco

A characteristic feature of interior design in the Roman style is stucco, so it is impossible to overdo it here. Decorative elements are present in large numbers both on the ceiling and on wall surfaces.

The principle of art deco design is to combine the incongruous. Any elements that will give the interior a special chic and luxury can be used here. Gypsum stucco can harmonize not only with each other, the ornament is often repeated in the decor.

Baroque, Rococo and Empire

Article

Gypsum decorations will give individuality to interior design. In addition, stucco can be used quite widely, in various styles of room decoration. In the article we will tell you how to make stucco molding from gypsum with your own hands (at home), we will give step-by-step instructions for making.

Shape selection

The variety of gypsum stucco molding today is not limited to the creation of figures of fat-cheeked cupids, graceful lines of flowers and petals, and room cornices. Using this material, you can create an imitation of a fireplace, "grow" a tree on a vertical surface of a wall or on a ceiling. The figure can be classically white or painted in various colors. The choice is determined by the customer's wishes.

First of all, you need to decide on the appearance of the future work of art, its size, location. The best option is to make a life-size stencil or draw a pattern on the surface that you plan to decorate.

The options are endless. The simplest - stars, flowers, snowflakes, letters. You can decorate the room with original three-dimensional paintings - landscapes, still lifes. The "carved" frame will allow you to achieve a complete imitation.

Solution

For casting large gypsum products, the solution is prepared in small portions. A thick solution does not pour well and does not completely fill the form, which has a thin relief.

An adhesive solution can slow down the hardening reaction - gelatinous, mezdrovy. A 25% concentration of "glue water" is recommended. It must be used within one day. In addition, the use of an adhesive solution gives the products strength.

Flat products are ground to a flat surface sprinkled with fine gypsum flour and left there for a day.

Manufacturing

Plaster molding can be made in several ways.

1. The stencils are used to draw the contours of the future composition. Gypsum mass is applied to the surface, leveled, rubbed. Then everything superfluous is cut off. If necessary, the procedure is repeated. This method is suitable for creating stucco with a fairly simple surface configuration.
2. A solution is applied to the location of the stucco molding. Then the dried gypsum is processed according to the drawing.
3. Products of complex configurations are made using molds. They can be made of wood, plastic or concrete. First, the form is liberally smeared with soapy gruel. Then gypsum mortar is poured into it in layers. The maximum layer thickness is 1 cm. The next layer is poured only after the previous one has completely solidified. A well-hardened product is carefully released from the mold.

In addition, you can make a model completely or its fragments from plasticine. This material can change shape an infinite number of times. A plaster solution is applied to the finished plasticine decoration with a brush. Careful lubrication of the recesses is a guarantee of the accuracy of the shape of the future product. Further layers are applied with a spatula only as the previous ones dry.

After an hour, the form is removed from the plasticine model. When creating products of large shapes, it is reinforced with a copper mesh. From the inside, the finished form is covered with a colorless furniture varnish.

When pouring gypsum mortar into the mold, it is necessary to avoid the appearance of air bubbles in it. Light shaking will ensure complete filling of small reliefs. Drying of gypsum products should be carried out at a temperature of at least +16 0 C. After thawing, they are destroyed. You should not try to speed up the drying process with a fan, heaters - the gypsum will warp.

Deficiencies are eliminated with a knife, then the product is polished with fine sandpaper.

White gypsum surface can be painted with water based paint. Before that, it is covered with two layers of primer. With the help of pieces of fabric, sponge, synthetic materials, you can give the stucco molding any texture.

Surface preparation

The installation site of the future product is completely thoroughly cleaned, washed from whitewash. The notch on the back and mating surfaces will help hold the bonding solution more firmly.

Small light parts can be fixed with liquid gypsum.

Large elements are mounted using special fasteners. Holes are drilled in them and in the surface of the wall or ceiling, into which screws are fastened with dowels or wooden inserts. Metal loops are fixed inside the gypsum products. During installation, they are put on the heads of the screws. Lacquer coating will prevent the appearance of rust on the fastener metal.

You can mount metal pins into the wall, then they are pressed into the stucco holes filled with a liquid solution.

Before planning large compositions, it is better to practice by making small figures. You can also make decoration from individual modules.

Video

So, using a wooden machine, you can make a simple plaster molding yourself:

A photo