Why soft string on the roof waves. Do-it-yourself installation of flexible tiles: step-by-step instructions for the work. Really difficult - but possible

In order for the flexible tile on the roof to serve for a long time, it is important to install it correctly, in compliance with all requirements and norms. The process involves laying a special lining carpet. It is purchased separately, it costs a lot of money, but without it the roof will turn out to be unreliable. Is underlayment required? flexible tiles And how is it installed? We answer these and other questions in the article.

To understand the features and necessity of using a lining carpet, it is important to understand what kind of material it is and what functions it performs. Lining carpet- this is a kind of membrane that performs a moisture-repellent function, allows you to protect the roof from leaks and interior spaces houses from flooding. The carpet is roll material which is made from bitumen and polymers. Usually in the structure of the material there is a fiberglass or a base made of polyester fabric. This part of the carpet is covered polymer compositions(usually based on bitumen), as well as fine quartz sand or fine crumb. There may be an adhesive film on the bottom of the carpet, which allows you to fix the material to the base. The crumb or sand allows you to ensure that the surface of the carpet is not slippery - the material is always laid with the abrasive side up.

In general, a roof structure that is covered with soft tiles has these layers, when viewed from top to bottom:

• directly the flexible tile itself;
• lining carpet;
• base (for example, OSB board);
• a layer of waterproofing material;
• insulating layer;
• system of rafters and battens;
• vapor barrier film.

Only a roof that has all these layers will be reliable and will not leak throughout its entire service life.

Functions of the lining carpet

The main functions of the lining carpet are two - this is the leveling of the base and the waterproofing of the roof. With this material, you can easily make inconspicuous joints between sheets of material with which the crate is closed. It will also help compensate for differences in the level of the roof.

On a note! The underlayment will also prevent air bubbles from forming under separate elements roofs.

The waterproofing function is especially relevant in vulnerable places - for example, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bcornices, valleys, junctions of the roof with pipes. Also, the material will prevent the formation of condensation inside roofing system during fluctuations in air temperature. And another carpet in regions with large quantity snow plays the role of a shock-absorbing substrate when a large amount of precipitation forms on the roof.

Due to the fact that the lining carpet provides excellent protection of the wooden roof structure from moisture, it will last as long as possible, as it will not start to rot. After all, even a tree treated with various protective agents is still prone to destruction if it is constantly exposed to moisture.

On a note! The lining carpet can be used as a temporary roof - it is so reliable. The material in rainy regions plays an important role in protecting the object under construction from moisture. It is always installed first.

Prices for lining carpets

Carpet lining

In general, the following advantages of the lining carpet can be distinguished:

• strength;
• tightness;
• good waterproof function;
• heat and sound insulation of premises;
• leveling the roof base;
• ensuring protection of the inside of the roof from condensate.

The main drawback of the lining carpet is its considerable cost. The material is sometimes compared in price with the softest tiles.

With a slight slope of the roof slopes, the coating is laid on the valleys and the ridge. The carpet should be laid in rolls from the bottom up. The overlap is usually 20 cm

Is underlayment required?

Many people ask how justified the use of the lining bark is. After all, waterproofing can be done in other ways, and the base under the tiles can be made as even as possible. Is it worth spending money on this expensive material? The answer of experts is unequivocal - it is worth it. And all positive points the uses of underlayment are described above. Most importantly, the material will extend the life of the roof as a whole for many years.

There are also cases in which it is impossible to refuse the carpet under any circumstances. For example, if the roof slope is very slight (up to 18 degrees) or, conversely, too large (over 60 degrees), then this material will still have to be used. Otherwise, the store where soft tiles were purchased will not even give a guarantee for their products.

On a note! If the desire to save money is great, then on slopes of medium slope, you can not lay a lining carpet, but use it only in particularly vulnerable places.

What carpet to choose?

If the decision to buy an underlayment is not worth it, then it is important to decide what type of product to purchase. The material is always produced in rolls with a width of 1 m, but, depending on the manufacturer or some features, it may have differences. First of all, carpets are divided into two types according to the fastening method:

• self-adhesive, which is fixed by an adhesive strip applied at the factory on the wrong side of the material and sealed with a protective film. This is the most common variety;
• without adhesive backing, which is fixed only with the help of galvanized self-tapping screws or roofing nails in increments of 20 cm. The edges of the segments joining each other are additionally connected using bituminous mastic.

There is also the so-called combined type, which is fixed at the bottom of the canvas on adhesive base, and at the top - with the help of fasteners. There are also built-up materials that are fixed by heating with a building hair dryer.

Important! When buying a lining carpet, you need to make sure that there are instructions for use for it. And you will have to act strictly according to it during installation.

Self-adhesive carpet is the most popular among all types. It is produced in rolls of 1x15 meters or more. During installation, it unfolds, sticks to the base of the roof parallel to the overhang of the eaves. Individual strips are laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The service life of the carpet is on average 15-25 years and will directly depend on several factors - the design features of the roof, climatic conditions region, compliance with the rules of installation.

Advice! In places where leakage is most likely, it is recommended to lay the underlayment in two layers.

Table. Underlayment manufacturers.

On a note! It is necessary to store the lining carpet purchased for work in a dry place at a temperature not exceeding +30 degrees. It is best to place the rolls in a vertical position. They cannot be placed near radiators.

Installation subtleties

Installation of the underlayment carpet is relatively simple, but during operation it is worth adhering to certain rules and following the recommendations. Then the material will last for many years without any complaints, reliably protecting the roof from leaks. When installing the underlayment, it is important to ensure that the material is well stretched. Typically, the coating spreads horizontally, starting from the lower edge of the roof. But if the roof has a large angle of inclination, then the rolls can also be stacked vertically.

The step of self-tapping screws, if a material is used that needs mechanical fixation, is approximately 10-20 cm. Also, roofing fasteners can also be used for additional fixation of a self-adhesive coating. All joints and seams must be well taped bituminous mastic, while the width of the adhesive strip should not be less than 10 cm.

The main condition that must be observed when laying the lining carpet is the evenness of the base, which is created on top of the crate or roof rafters. The following materials can be used as the basis for the lining carpet.

Attention! When installing a flat base under the carpet, it is important to ensure that there are gaps between separate sheets leveling material. Their width is 2-4 mm. Otherwise, the material may warp over time due to thermal expansion or humidity.

moisture resistant plywood prices

Plywood moisture resistant

Installation of the lining carpet on the roof is carried out at an air temperature of +5 to +25 degrees. If it is necessary to trim the material, use a sharp knife and a board that is placed under the cut area. This will prevent damage to other layers of material.

Step 1. To lay the underlayment carpet under the soft tiles, you will need a number of tools, as well as some materials. This is bituminous mastic, a small metal spatula, sharp knife, pencil and tape measure, pliers, hammer.

Step 2 The rafters are covered with leveling material (OSB boards). A gap of several millimeters must be left between the individual elements of the base. Next is the installation of cornice strips. They are fixed along the perimeter of the roof to its edge. In this case, in the valley area, two separate planks are overlapped.

Step 3 Eaves strips are nailed with galvanized roofing nails in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15 cm. Too close to the bend eaves plank fasteners are not clogged.

Step 4 In the valley area, the planks are joined so that the small remaining tongue of the previously fixed plank is under the next plank. Then the connection will be neat.

Step 5 The installation of the underlayment begins. A piece of carpet 1 m wide is laid on the valley so that on both sides of the axis of the valley there is 50 cm of coverage.

Step 6 The carpet is carefully leveled on the surface, while it should not reach the edge of the cornice strip by about 2-3 cm. Moreover, the smaller the angle and length of the roof slope, the smaller the indentation.

Step 7 The protective film is removed from the back surface of the carpet. For convenience, one part of the carpet is turned away, the film is removed from it and removed under the other part of the carpet.

Step 8 Half of the carpet removed film put back and smoothed to the surface of the base with your hands. Exactly the same procedure is performed with the second half of the carpet.

Step 9 The lining carpet on the rest of the roof is spread in horizontal stripes. An indent of 1-3 cm is also maintained from the edge of the cornice.

Step 10 The material is laid with an overlap on the previously laid segment of the carpet on the valley. The overlap must be at least 15 cm.

Step 11 Gluing starts from the edge of the roof. A protective film is torn off from the extreme section of the carpet, tucked under the other edge of the material. The coating is spread on the base and glued.

Step 12 The rest of the roll rolls into a tube. During gluing, the protective film is removed and the carpet is glued to the roof surface at the same time.

Step 13 The rest of the roof can be covered with mechanically fixed carpet. A segment of the required length is laid with a longitudinal overlap of 10 cm. The carpet in the upper part is nailed with galvanized fastening material in increments of 20-25 cm.

Step 14 All joints of the carpet are smeared with bitumen-based mastic. The layer of applied adhesive composition should not be more than 1 mm.

Prices for bituminous mastic

Bituminous mastic

Video - Installation of the lining carpet

Video - The nuances of installing a TechnoNikol carpet

Video - Lining carpet Shinglas

Installation of the lining carpet is simple, the main thing is to follow all the rules and requirements. Only in this case it will be possible to prevent mistakes that can become fatal and spoil the reliability of the roof.

During operation soft roof swellings of various diameters can occur on its surface. The reason for their formation is a violation of the installation technology of a soft roof in terms of vapor barrier. This may be the lack of a vapor barrier or its improper installation during the installation of the roof. The heat flow, which rises from the premises upwards towards the roof, carries a significant amount of moisture. During the passage roofing cake it condenses and accumulates in the gap between the roofing materials and their substrate. AT winter period This moisture repeatedly freezes and thaws over the years, which leads to the delamination of the soft roof and its gradual destruction. AT warm time years, moisture is converted into hot steam and increases its volume up to 40 times. For this reason, blisters with a diameter of more than one meter can form on the surface of the soft roof.

To eliminate swelling, they are cut in the shape of an envelope, and the corners are turned away and the contents are thoroughly dried. The inner and outer sides of the corners are cleaned of adhering dirt and moisture. After that, they are lubricated with a special mastic and glued back to the roof surface. A patch is fixed on top of the damaged area, the size of which should overlap the cuts at a distance of at least 100 mm. The edges of the patch are puttied, and the top is carefully treated with mastic. If the soft roof was made of welded materials, then you can refuse to use mastic. In this case, all gluing operations are carried out using blowtorch or gas burner.

Roof repairs in Moscow are carried out in a similar way by the majority construction companies who have extensive experience in this field and qualified personnel.

Today, soft roofs not only occupy a leading position in the market, but have become a real discovery for designers and architects. many styles, individual solutions and the possibility of easy implementation on a roof with a complex structure - what more could you want? The main thing is to achieve absolute tightness between the shingles, on which the durability of the entire coating depends. And the installation of flexible tiles will be within your power, believe me, even if you are faced with this type of work for the first time!

Therefore, if you carefully read our advice, then with the help of one more person you will cover even a large roof area. The fact is that even in the factory, the shingles are prepared for gluing, applying a special solution to the bottom layer, and they even make four holes so that you know exactly where to drive the roofing nails. And now we will tell you about all the intricacies of working with a soft roof.

Once the roof frame is ready, install the vapor barrier as a solid carpet with inside roof, without gaps, and fix to the rafters with wooden planks. On the same strips you will then fasten the inner lining of the attic.

Now take care of the vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then all the moisture will come out of it by itself, with the help of natural ventilation. But in the case of a residential attic, vapor barrier is necessary. For this purpose, an additional bar is stuffed on the rafters, rolled out vapor barrier film with an overlap and glued with a special adhesive tape (the usual one does not fit!).

Next, from the outside, lay the selected insulation on the vapor barrier film, preferably spaced apart. Cover the top windproof membrane and fix with bars, which will also later serve to create ventilation ducts.

As a result, you should get such a “layer cake”, as roofers like to call it:

We have prepared for you detailed master class how and in what order everything should happen:

As you can see from the above photos, it was not difficult to lay the flexible sheets on the curved lucarnes!

Step 2. Installing solid decking

For the installation of flexible tiles, a rigid solid base is required. Therefore, on the prepared crate, mount a solid carpet of plywood or OSB-boards, with a gap of 3-5 mm, which is necessary for deformation from temperature and moisture, and fix it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.

The main requirement for the base for shingles is a flat area and the ability to fix shingles with nails. For this, sheets of glued wood shavings like plywood or a tongue-and-groove board laid end-to-end are suitable. Only the board should be as dry as possible so that waves do not form during drying. But it is a big mistake to use only the crate itself under the soft roof, albeit more frequent, because already in the first season the entire roof will simply go in waves. And photos with such problems become a real asset for manufacturers who scare their customers with such mistakes.

Once the base is ready, reinforce the cornice overhang with metal strips. These are laid with an edge on the edge of the base and fastened with roofing nails, in increments of 150 mm, in a checkerboard pattern:

Step 3. Selecting and installing the substrate

Now is the time to take care of waterproofing. It is necessary in such difficult places as adjoining, joints and valleys. Here the canvases are laid from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm in the longitudinal and 15 cm in the transverse direction:

We recommend that you use a specially designed underlay, and not roofing paper or similar material, as is sometimes done. The fact is that they have a finishing roofing – different dates operation, and even the terms of use!

And such an attempt to save money will soon lead to swelling of the entire roofing carpet. In addition, no manufacturer will guarantee a roof that uses third-party materials in the pie.

By the way, until recently, lining carpets were practically not used in Russia, and even today many people strive to cheat. This is logical, because by the time the roof is built, it often turns out that the planned budget for the whole house is not enough, and you have to make concessions. But, if you want to lay a flexible tile roofing and forget about it for many decades, then do not give up such an important element.

There is always a risk of water infiltrating the roof space, especially in tricky areas such as bypasses. chimneys or contact with the installed antenna. There are also emergency situations when a strong wind lifts the shingles during a downpour.

Moreover, it is not difficult to pick up a roofing carpet, because. it is subject to the same requirements as for tiles: to be resistant to temperature extremes, provide reliable waterproofing and serve for a long time. And the modern market provides many options, both imported and domestic. Moreover, many plants in Russia today operate on European equipment and are not inferior to foreign analogues in terms of product quality.

In general, lining carpets are of two types: self-adhesive and mechanically fixed. Self-adhesive ones are laid mainly in valleys, and mechanical ones are rolled out on the remaining area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof and fixed with galvanized nails:

Here is the process of installing a conventional roofing carpet, which will need to be fixed with bituminous mastic:

Here is an example of working with a more modern self-adhesive roofing mat:

So, for a valley, a self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is ideal. And, if the slopes have a slope of more than 18 degrees, then consider laying the carpet in all places of possible leaks, and these are: ribs, ridges, gable overhang and all the exits of roofing elements.

But on a roof with a slope of 12 to 18 degrees, you will need a continuous waterproofing carpet. Prior to this, we recommend putting a self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material on the cornice overhangs, for example, "Barrier", and at the same time strive to ensure that the carpet itself is without overlap - continuous along the entire length:

Also insulate the ventilation passages, areas around skylights and chimneys. Before the installation of flexible tiles, coat all the passage elements with bituminous mastic with your own hands - this is not difficult.

Before you start laying shingles, you will also need to reinforce cornice overhangs. You need to fix them with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm. Here is an informative video lesson from the company on this topic:

Step 4. Selecting fasteners

To fix flexible shingles, you will need special wide-head nails. It will be extremely important to nail them so that the hat is in the same plane with the surface of each shingle, and at the same time does not “crash” into it. In addition, nails for soft tiles must be galvanized.

Nails for mounting soft tiles are divided into the following types:

• Roofing nails. They have such a sharpened point that when deepened into bituminous layer they do not violate its integrity. Such nails are produced galvanized or without a protective layer at all. Of course, unprotected ones are the cheapest, but at the same time they are not at all practical and quickly begin to rust. These are only suitable for assembling furniture or building temporary shelters.
• Ruffed nails. On the working rod, they have special cloves that are directed towards the cap. These are not easily hammered into the wood, although it is quite difficult to pull them out even with a nail puller. And most often, in the process of dismantling, they simply cut off the head of the ruffed nails - and that's it. They fix the roofing so firmly that they are more often used for slate than for soft roofing.
• club nails have longitudinal grooves and lintels on the working rod, and they are less suitable for soft roofing.

We recommend that you take exactly galvanized ruffed nails with a head diameter of 8-9 millimeters as roofing nails specifically for flexible tiles. They also produce special nails for bituminous shingles, and they differ from standard counterparts.

These are made of durable steel wire, which is automatically cut into equal pieces, then the workpiece is sharpened on one side, and riveted into a hat shape on the other. If you see these for sale, you can buy them.

But it is important at the same time that the nails themselves comply with GOST 4030-63: the diameter of the rod is 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the cap is at least 8 mm. The thing is that in working with concrete shingles, the most unpleasant moment is when the nails, at the next blow, simply sink into the bituminous layer and violate the integrity of the coating. But the extended hat will not be able to “drown” so easily. And the larger it is, the better it will hold the shingle, which is why high-quality nails for shingles resemble a pushpin. Moreover, for single-layer and two-layer tiles, you will need nails with parameters of 30x3.5 mm, and for a three-layer one - 45x3.5 mm.

By the way, some unfortunate builders do not understand why it is impossible to simply heat the sheets of soft tiles and stick them on the flooring, why nails and all the fuss associated with them? Actually use open fire on such a roof is prohibited due to elementary considerations fire safety. So forget about this risky idea and rent an automatic device.

Step 5 Place the Starting Strip

And now we proceed directly to the laying of flexible tiles. It starts from the start line. As such, you can take:

• a pattern from an ordinary tile, for example, a shingle with cut petals, if you are working with collections " Tango" or " Trio»;
• universal ridge-cornice tiles, especially if you work with " Chord», « Sonata" or " Jazz».

If it is more convenient for you to start with the eaves shingles, lay them on top of the metal strip, stepping back a little from the place of the inflection. Next, nail it with nails, but keep in mind that the longer and steeper the slope, the greater should be the indent from the bend:

This is how laying the starting strip looks in practice:

Step 6. Installation of different types of shingles

Now let's unpack the shingles. The main requirement for their installation is dry, warm weather, because it is undesirable to lay bituminous tiles at temperatures below + 5 ° C, because. in areas where it will need to be bent, it will be difficult to do without cracks.

If you still have to fasten the shingles in such conditions, then prevention will be needed: the sheets are heated with a building hair dryer and bent on a metal pipe about 10 cm in diameter. But it's better not to do that.

count up required amount shingles is not difficult: take one sheet, measure the area that will be visible, find out the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope and divide the second by the first. Here is a valuable tip on how to calculate and prepare flexible shingles for installation:

Of course, if you have a diamond eye, then detailed calculations can be dispensed with, but marking lines serve as excellent guides along which you can align the tiles both vertically and horizontally. Especially if you are laying a soft roof for the first time.

Believe me, tearing off a few sheets and attaching them again to fix a jamb is not the most fun thing. And absolutely without marking, if some element is embedded in the roof or the general geometry of the ramp is broken. In this case, you will be helped by such tools as a beating, a plumb line and a level.

As we have already said, for convenience, ready-made shingles are usually marked with small holes in the factory, so that you know exactly where to hammer nails. If there are none (for example, the cheapest collections), then just step back 2-3 cm from the edge and be guided by this illustration:

In each case, the place where the nail is driven will directly depend on the shape of the cutting of the tile itself. It is only important that each nail pierces both the lower and upper edges of all sheets at the same time, and if you are laying flexible tiles on slopes with an angle of 45 °, then top corners shingle also needs to be fixed additionally.

The whole procedure for laying flexible tiles is not complicated, here are the instructions for the process itself:

1. Before laying, mix the shingles from several sticks to minimize color variation. The fact is that even in one mail the color can differ so much that you will be surprised, and such incidents will be very noticeable on the roof.
2. If the slope is long enough, start laying tiles from its center and align it horizontally. And the second row - already shifting the shingles to the left or right by half a sheet. Move the third and all subsequent rows relative to the previous one, also half the petal, to the left or right, depending on which direction you chose initially.
3. You need to start laying the tiles on a slope with a smaller slope, while you should enter a steeper slope by at least 30 cm. On a steeper slope, it is recommended to beat off the chalk lines so as not to go astray. Now cut the tile on a more slope along this new line, and fix it with bituminous mastic where there is no self-adhesive layer on the back side.
4. Lay the tiles from the bottom up, stepping back from the edge of the drips. Here it will be necessary to lay a special ridge-cornice tile. By the way, you can replace it with a regular one if you cut the petals.

Now secure the shingles. An automatic tool is good for this, especially if it works from electrical network. Most importantly, when choosing a model, take care of your own safety: the trigger must be comfortable, with protection against accidental firing and the ability to remove a stuck nail without any risk. After all, usually a hammer is more intended for small jobs on household, and professional roofers rarely use it.

The only point: if special roofing nails do not fit the gun, take a ready-made clip with nails with a wide flat head. They differ in that they are interconnected by a thin wire. Here such a tape is inserted into the chamber and the nail is fed one by one. This is much more convenient when working at height: no need to look for bunches, no need to put your fingers under the blow, and the fastening itself will be of better quality than when you are already too tired on the 501st nail. The main thing is to follow the basic technology: the nail must be driven in strictly perpendicular to the plane of the shingle.

Remember, if some shingle was fixed unreliably, then over time it will loosen its fastening and fly off with a gust of wind. And the nail itself, lifted from the wind, will tear the sheet, loosening the neighboring one. And all this will lead to leakage and the necessary repairs. Of course, it will not be possible to completely do without problem areas, which is why a periodic inspection of such a roof is needed.

Now consider the features of the installation of shingles different types. So, with a single-layer tile, before installation, you need to remove the protective film, which is always located on both sides of the shingle. Why is she? The fact is that this roofing is transported by ordinary trucks both in the heat and in the heat, but we are still talking about bitumen.

But in collections with such cuts as " dragon tooth”, there is no film, it is only important to choose beautiful drawing or lay randomly by simply mixing the shingles.

And how exactly to work with each type of shingle cutting, the following illustrations will help you:

Further, if you have to work with a complex roof, you have two ways of laying shingles: segmented and seamless. In the first method, divide the corner or cone into equal segments, and lay out each of them separately. And in this way, cover the entire roof. The seamless method is already more complicated: here it is important to make the correct markup of the slope and navigate along it. Think and choose the one that seems more convenient to you.

Step 7. Fixing the tiles in the valleys

And now - about the most problematic places of the roof. Valleys, namely the internal bends of the roof, you can organize in two ways: open and closed, which is also called the undercut method. The main thing then is to make a triangular rail at the junction of the roof with the wall and put tiles under it.

In addition, if the wall is brick, it must be plastered and treated with a bituminous primer. Top part the junctions should then be closed with a metal apron, which must be fixed and brought into the strobes, and then sealed:

Step 8. Laying ridge and back tiles

Next, we will deal with the concepts of ridge tiles. As you might guess, these are the shingles that cover the ridge of the roof. All other tiles are called ordinary. By the way, spinal tiles are obtained when the ridge-eaves are divided into three parts, or they are cut out from the usual ordinary by perforation.

To properly lay the back tiles, with the help of a cord, beat off the dimensions of the future ridge - these are two strips along it, and lay the back tiles from the bottom up. Then fix the shingles with nails on each side and make sure that the overlap of the overlying shingles overlaps the nails by 5 cm.

The ridge tiles are laid from the side that is opposite to the so-called wind rose (you can find out about this from your neighbors or from the wind map). Further - everything is the same as during the laying of the ridge. If there is no self-adhesive layer in the right places, coat it with mastic.

Now let's move on to the ribs. Here ordinary tiles should be cut so that between adjacent slopes there is a distance of 3 to 5 mm:

Here is another great tutorial where you can go over the details of the process:

And finally, finishing work. The laying of flexible tiles is always completed by installing a ridge aerator. To do this, a special groove is cut out along all the slopes, and an aerator is inserted into it. It is fixed with nails and covered with specially ridge tiles.

Also, for a soft roof, special additional elements are made - these are the lower parts of the roof passages, which are popularly called "skirts". And so that snow does not accumulate behind the ventilation and chimney pipes, especially when their cross section exceeds 50x50 cm, you need to organize a groove. In short, you will need the following elements:

So, your roof is ready, and it remains only to properly care for it. To do this, once every six months, use a soft brush to sweep all small debris from the roof, leaves and branches. The main thing is not to use sharp tools, because it is important not to scratch the basalt chips. And clean the gutters and funnels from time to time.

Luckily, shingle roofing is highly maintainable: just warm up the damaged area, remove it, and lay new tiles. A matter of one day!

The roof is the face of the house. That is why this part of the structure must be given Special attention, but you may have considerable difficulties in the process of choosing a roofing material, as there are many "rumors" about a soft roof. Let's still find out what is "truth" and what is "false" relative to.

Myth number 1: Soft roofing is the same roofing material only more expensive

In factcomparison of these materials causes indignation among specialists.

In order to understand what is the difference or similarity between these roofing materials, you must first find out what is the basis of the material. The basis of roofing material - recycled waste paper - paper! The basis of a soft roof - fiberglass. Fiberglass, unlike paper, does not rot - this is the first and most important difference!

For production, high-quality bitumen is used with the addition of SBS-innovative polymer, which is coated on both sides of fiberglass, which makes it durable material compared to roofing material, for which ordinary bitumen is used.

Upper layer roofing material - the surface is not protected from ultraviolet rays because of which the service life is only 5 years. The top layer of the soft roof is stone granulate, which protects the bitumen from any external influences, thanks to which the service life is more than 50 years.

Myth #2: Soft roofing is a very expensive roofing material that only the very rich can afford.

In factone of the most common myths.

First, the "very rich" are willing to purchase roofing material for their home such as slate, copper, and of course soft roofing... right?

Secondly, yes - flexible tiles are not cheap, but compared to the above roofing materials, it stands out for its democratic price.

Most likely, this rumor was generated by the owners of houses with outdated roofs, who know only one roofing material - slate. So, after a certain time, everyone who has a house is faced with the problem of choosing a roofing material. Often the choice falls on flexible tiles, because it is beautiful and reliable material. Comparing the price of an outdated slate or low-quality roofing material with a flexible tile, the difference becomes so obvious that it is hard not to notice. In this case, of course, flexible tiles are an expensive roofing material. Unfortunately, it does not happen that cheap roofing can be of high quality, reliable and durable.

Remember that saving on a roof is just as absurd as it is on a foundation. The service life of the entire building depends on the quality of the roofing material.. The question "cheap or expensive thing" for each person is individual.

Myth #3: In the cold, shingles will crack and break.

In factthis assumption is partly correct.

The fact is that each of the materials on the market has its own characteristics of production and specifications, so to speak, a "recipe" for flexible tiles. Some manufacturers of soft roofs use oxidized bitumen, which is the main reason for the fragility of the roofing material, it cracks in the cold and does not withstand mechanical pressure(on such a roof you can not move).

However, if flexible tiles are made on the basis of polymer-modified bitumen (SBS), then it easily withstands the conditions of the Russian harsh winter. SBS is styrene-butadiene-styrene or artificial rubber. The unique molecular structure of polymers interacts with bitumen, increasing its flexibility, elasticity and strength over a wide range of temperatures and reducing the bitumen's sensitivity to extreme temperatures. The bending of such material at sub-zero temperatures shows flexibility and absence of cracks at very low temperatures.

Myth #4: Shingles warp in the sun and boards show through

In fact, unevenness will occur on the roof only if low-quality (raw) boards, plywood or OSB boards were used under a solid base. We recommend using high-quality OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood, and if you still use edged board, then it should be natural drying!

Myth #5: Shingles fade

In fact, the color of Katepal shingles is provided by the surface of the stone granules, which are thermochemically dyed, i.e. the coloring enzyme penetrates into the structure of the stone, and does not just break through from above, so the granules do not lose their original color. It is also UV protection.

This misconception is born from homeowners when examining the roof. If you bend (raise) the shingle of the top row, the color of the granulate under it will turn out to be much darker and more saturated. There is a very simple explanation for this: not those granules that are visible, but those that are covered with subsequent shingles, are subject to change.

The difference in the color of the tile granulate on the upper "petals" and "under the petals" occurs due to the fact that bitumen, which has an oily dark structure, is absorbed from the upper layer by granules of the lower, which is why the top shingles appear “faded”, more faded. Hence the erroneous opinion is born that the roofing material fades.

Myth No. 6: Very difficult installation in cold weather!

Really difficult - but possible!

You can not mount in the rain and snowfall, the presence of the SBS modifier allows you to work at low temperatures, but you need to follow some conditions:

1. The tile before laying is stored in a warm room for 2-3 days.
2. For better grip adhesive layer tiles are heated with a building hair dryer, in extreme cases, glued with a thermal gun.
3. All metal elements that require bending bend only in a warm room.

Bituminous glue for work must be heated in a water bath (it is strictly forbidden to dilute it with acetone and other additives).

Myth No. 7: The need for additional expenses due to a solid foundation

In fact, a solid base - design feature shingle roofing.

Just as a foundation is needed for a house, so is a roof, for example, made of natural tiles- a powerful crate and a reinforced truss structure, for the proper functioning of the under-roof space, competent ventilation is necessary. To neglect these requirements, to perceive them as an extra waste of money, is at least wrong. Each material has its own mandatory conditions without which it cannot be used.

We hope that your choice of roofing material will be based on convincing facts, and not on the delusions of the majority.

The standard set of tasks for a real man, as you know, includes three items: give birth to a son, plant a tree and build a house. And today, among the representatives of the stronger sex, regardless of profession and status, there are many who seek to literally bring them to life. The more easy to use modern materials and technology allow us to successfully carry out construction and repair work on our own country house. For example, to achieve guaranteed reliability and durability pitched roof possible, thanks to the use of a lining carpet. It forms a continuous waterproofing layer, through which moisture that has penetrated into the under-roof space simply flows off without harming the structure.

Now this progressive specialized material is also produced in Russia. ANDEREP underlayment carpets of TECHNONICOL Corporation successfully compete in foreign markets and make quality independent of imports for Russian consumers. A non-professional builder can easily handle their installation. However, there are a number of nuances, the neglect of which is fraught with a decrease in efficiency. About them - below.

Substrate preparation and installation conditions

Successful functioning of the underlayment and finish coat largely depends on a well-prepared base and the conditions in which the installation was carried out. Therefore, it is extremely important not to make mistakes at these stages. Base plates - OSB, or moisture-resistant plywood must be laid with a gap of no more than 3 mm. Otherwise, during the process of thermal expansion, the surface may be deformed, unevenness will be created on the lining carpet, and the roof will lose, at least in aesthetic appeal. Installation on wet substrates or "spring installation" can also lead to the formation of wavy folds on the surface. During the winter, structures inevitably gain moisture, and at positive temperatures they begin to give it back. The expert recommends avoiding haste and starting laying the material only when the building frame and the surface to be mounted are in the same temperature regime and within acceptable humidity. For framing structures permissible humidity is not more than 20%, for solid wooden decking(OSB and moisture resistant plywood) - no more than 12%.

Wrinkles and waves on the lining carpet can also occur if it is installed in different temperature and time frames. For example, the team may start work in the evening when the air temperature drops and the material hardens. At such a time, even small folds on the material will be invisible. In the morning, when the temperature rises, the lining carpet will soften, begin to adhere tightly to the surface, and the irregularities allowed will gather into large folds. To prevent this from happening, the installation of the lining carpet must be carried out in the same temperature regime with its maximum softness and suppleness, that is, during the day and at one time of the year.

Alexey Vorobyov

The right choice of underlayment

The need for a lining carpet today is understood by many. But it is important not just to lay a lining carpet, but to choose a solution that is most suitable for a specific construction task. A common mistake is to replace specialized products with cheap roofing materials, most often roofing material. Savings in this case is very doubtful. The strength characteristics of the roofing material below. Unlike underlayment carpets, it does not have a "self-healing" function. A huge number of holes formed in the process of mechanical fastening of itself and the roofing material and increased in the process, for example, by seasonal deformations, turn such a coating into a "sieve". Moisture that has entered the under-roof space will almost certainly fall on wooden base and can lead to its decay and destruction. Lining carpets, unlike roofing material, create a continuous protective layer even on complex surfaces. But even among them it is important to choose the right one. For example, any product of the ANDEREP line is suitable for flexible tiles. But the use of economical lining carpets ANDEREP GL and ANDEREP GL PLUS, specially designed only for flexible tiles, with other roofing materials - metal sheets, ceramic tiles etc. fraught with problems.

To do this, it is better to choose the universal ultra-light lining carpets ANDEREP PROF and ANDEREP PROF PLUS, and in places where roofs from shingles and tiles are most likely to leak, it is recommended to use ANDEREP ULTRA.

ANDEREP GL and ANDEREP GL PLUS are based on fiberglass. It gives the necessary strength, but does not have resistance to stretching, respectively, materials based on it do not withstand deformation well. For more high loads suitable materials ANDEREP PROF, ANDEREP PROF PLUS and ANDEREP ULTRA, based on durable and stretchable polyester.

Alexey Vorobyov

Installation of "self-adhesive" and underlay carpets with mechanical fastening

A simple and optimal installation solution is self-adhesive underlays such as ANDEREP ULTRA. To attach them, you just need to remove the protective film and roll the material to the base. It adheres tightly to the surface without forming air gaps. But when working with self-adhesive materials, it is extremely important to observe several conditions. The material must be laid on the most dry and clean surface. And the air temperature during work should not be lower than + 10˚C. In addition, in places of increased loads, for example, in the valley area, it is necessary to additionally apply mechanical fastening.

The most common use of underlayment carpets with mechanical fastening. This method of installation is practical and uncomplicated. However, it is extremely important to correctly calculate the required amount of fasteners - if you do not comply with the norms, with strong gusts of wind, there will be a risk of tearing the material from the surface. The overlaps of the material sheets must necessarily be fastened with special roofing mastics. This is a rather laborious process. This year, TECHNONICOL launched the upgraded ANDEREP GL PLUS and ANDEREP PROF PLUS materials on the market. Unlike their "big brothers" (ANDEREP GL and ANDEREP PROF, respectively), they are equipped with special adhesive (bitumen-free) strips - to fasten the sheets, you only need to remove the protective film and stick the next sheet to the adhesive surface. The use of such materials reduces the consumption of mastic, makes installation less laborious and increases the reliability of joints.

When installing any underlayment, it is extremely important to ensure its maximum tension and fit to the surface. Therefore, installation must begin after the material rolled out of the roll is completely straightened. The behavior of lining carpets on the roof largely depends on their foundation. If the requirements for the moisture content of the wood used in construction are not met, wrinkles may form on materials with a fiberglass base in the areas of the joints of the base. To avoid such a problem, it is necessary to reduce the step of attaching the material to the base and provide additional mechanical fasteners in the middle, in several rows. Super-thin underlayment carpets with a polyester backing are flexible and, when creases occur, they simply wrinkle, preventing the material from picking up the surface of the roofing. But, accordingly, their price is more expensive.

Alexey Vorobyov

Timely protection of the underlayment

Underlayment carpets are designed for laying under the finish coat. Bitumen mixture without special protection is not designed for long-term exposure to ultraviolet radiation. The sanding on the material is intended only to ensure the safe movement of the person who is performing the installation. It is advisable to leave such material without a finish coat for no more than a week. But the lining carpets ANDEREP GL PLUS, ANDEREP PROF, ANDEREP PROF PLUS and ANDEREP ULTRA will not lose their properties under direct influence environment throughout half a year.

When installing the roof different reasons interruptions may occur. A number of lining carpets in such situations can effectively perform the functions of a temporary roof for a sufficiently long period. ANDEREP GL PLUS, ANDEREP PROF, ANDEREP PROF PLUS materials have this ability protective covering non-woven polypropylene (Spunbond), and ANDEREP ULTRA - an increased content of quality modifiers contained in the bituminous mixture.

Alexey Vorobyov

In this way, right choice lining carpet and strict adherence to the manufacturer's instructions will allow those who are used to doing everything themselves to provide reliable and durable protection pitched roof at home.