About what mistakes are made most often and how to lay linoleum correctly, we will tell in this article.

Minor bugs

• Store the roll horizontally

If you purchased linoleum ahead of time, be sure to place the roll vertically. A feature of this material is that, in a twisted form, under its own weight, creases or waves form on it, which can remain forever on your floor.

• Immediately after the purchase, start cutting

Never start laying linoleum as soon as you bring it into the house. Be sure to straighten the roll and let it lie down for a while in expanded form. It is difficult to say for sure how much linoleum should lie down to avoid waves. The fact is that this is affected by the temperature and humidity in the apartment, the quality of the material and its thickness. However, it is still possible to eliminate the resulting irregularities.

• Cut linoleum close to the walls

This is wrong, since the PVC coating is an elastic material and during operation it “distributes” to the sides or “shrinks”. If the cut falls exactly at the corner, then over time the linoleum will start waves, since it will have nowhere to go. To prevent this from happening, when cutting, leave a gap of 10-15 mm, which will then be hidden behind the plinth.

Laying linoleum on an unprepared floor

By itself, this material is flexible and rather thin, capable of revealing over time all the outlines of the irregularities of the subfloor. You have probably experienced this spectacle in some of the institutions that have been refurbished many years ago. Therefore, special attention must be paid to the preparation of the floor before coating.

How to properly lay linoleum if you have a wooden floor:

• Assess the condition of the boards. If they are not affected by the fungus and there are no major defects on them, then proceed to the second paragraph.
• Carefully fasten all loose elements on the same level with the rest of the boards.
• Remove existing humps and other protruding irregularities with a planer or grinder.
• Drive all the nail heads deep into the wood, and cover the recesses with putty.
• The same should be done with cracks, joints and cracks in the planks.
• If there are very wide gaps, then they need to be closed with a narrow rail.
• Finally, sand the floor surface.

It happens that the damage to the wooden floor is too great, in which case it is more convenient to simply lay moisture-resistant plywood sheets on top of it, remembering to deepen the screws and cover them with putty.

How to lay linoleum correctly if you already have an old one? Thoroughly wash the original coating and sand it with sandpaper. After that, let the linoleum dry well.

Existing holes and bent sections must be cut out in the form of squares using a metal ruler and a clerical knife, gluing fragments of similar size from the remains there. Remember: the main thing here is to make the surface as uniform as possible.

If you have a concrete floor, first check its curvature: in the case when the differences reach 20 mm, you need a screed. It is advisable to make a classic screed, and pour a thin layer of self-leveling mixture on top - this will give an even more even surface. on a concrete floor is no different from other cases.

Do not glue linoleum to the base

Many do not consider fixation mandatory at all, especially when linoleum is a temporary "cosmetic" measure, hastily laid in a small room.

Without knowing it, we noticeably shorten the life of linoleum. The fact is that the seams in this case become flimsy very soon. They allow moisture to pass through, as a result of which mold can settle under the linoleum.

Remember: laying linoleum on any substrate entails punching in it recesses from the legs of the furniture.

Primer and moisture

Often linoleum is planted on glue or bituminous mastic, believing that this is enough to keep it strong, but this is not the case. The use of a primer for both sides is mandatory, otherwise over time you will observe local delamination, swelling and bending.

If a large-scale exfoliation of linoleum has occurred, then the situation can only be corrected radically. Carefully remove the entire canvas and try to remove the adhesive composition from both the floor and the coating as much as possible. Then prime and allow both surfaces to dry properly. After that, apply glue again and re-fix the linoleum.

Moisture under linoleum

Whether it is a dry screed or water residue after wet cleaning, this will have a detrimental effect on the quality of your floor. How to properly lay linoleum in order to avoid peeling it later? Follow the sealing of the seams, as well as the application of mastic strictly on a dry base.

If a screed was made before laying, it should take several, sometimes up to seven days, until it is completely dry.

Causes and elimination of bubbles

If your flooring has been glued to the base and after a while you notice something like a bubble, pierce it with a large needle and expel the accumulated air through the hole. Using a syringe with a needle, apply a little glue under this area, and then iron the place of the bubble with a warm iron through a cotton cloth. This will allow the adhesive to melt and polymerize along with the linoleum.

If you laid a PVC coating on a bitumen-rubber mastic, then the thickened but not dried mastic under the linoleum can be slightly softened with a solvent by running it with a syringe. Then take a few bags, fill them with hot sand and load the problem areas with them. The heat will heat up the bitumen, and under pressure, the linoleum will more reliably stick to the floor.

What causes bubbling and flaking of linoleum? From the fact that somewhere more glue or mastic was applied, somewhere less, and in some places there was a gap at all. A layer of more than 1 mm dries for a long time, and a layer of 0.5 mm or less is practically its absence: linoleum will not stick in this place.

How to lay linoleum correctly to avoid this problem? When spreading, use a notched trowel and spread the mastic well over the surface.

Elimination of household defects

One way or another, during operation, the floor covering wears out and scuffs form at the joints or thresholds. From heavy furniture, standing for many years in the same place, depressions appear, and sometimes holes.

In this case, patches are made to problem areas:

• First, pieces are selected from the remnants of linoleum that match the pattern, but are slightly larger than necessary.
• Then the flap is applied to the hole and a square or rectangle is cut through with a sharp knife under the ruler through both layers.
• The damaged fragment is carefully removed, putting a new piece there. The patch is put on glue and something heavy is placed on top.
• To avoid scuffing, linoleum is put on adhesive tape from the threshold area, and an aluminum limiter threshold is installed on top.

Linoleum is one of the most popular, budget and easy-to-install floor coverings. It is enough for anyone who wants to simply study the instructions and prepare the necessary devices in order to independently perform linoleum flooring. As a result, a beautiful and unpretentious floor covering will be obtained. Modern linoleum can imitate the textures of a wide variety of materials, which allows you to choose flooring for a room decorated in any design style.

For self-laying linoleum on the floor, you will need the material in question and additional accessories.

1. Putty.
2. Glue.
3. Double-sided adhesive tape.
4. Reiki for arranging joints.
5. Nails.
6. Sharp knife.
7. Ruler.
8. Yardstick.
9. Marker.
10. Notched trowel.
11. Ordinary small spatula.
12. Tools for hot welding.
13. Special ice rink.
14. Scissors.

The above set may be reduced depending on the chosen method of fastening the flooring. At this point, you will be able to navigate after studying the further provisions of the instructions.

Base device

Regardless of whether you lay linoleum on a wooden or concrete base, the surface needs careful preliminary leveling.

First step. Carefully close all visible cracks with putty.

Second step. Sand the putty surface.

Third step. Perform local repair of collapsed screeds with an appropriate concrete mortar. If the damage is large and there are a lot of them, fill in a new concrete screed, after getting rid of the old layer. Let the screed dry.

Fourth step. Pour a special self-levelling mixture onto the screed. At this stage, follow the instructions specific to your mixture.

First step. Buy sheets of plywood at least 0.5 cm thick.

Second step. Lay the plywood on the floor and attach the sheets to the base with self-tapping screws so that the fastener heads are recessed into the material.

Third step. Putty the seams between the plywood sheets.

Quite often, home craftsmen have a question: is it possible to mount a new flooring on an existing linoleum? In theory, this is possible. However, for the successful implementation of such an idea, you need to remove the skirting boards and carefully stretch the old linoleum.

As a result, you can spend more time on such preparation than on dismantling the coating and leveling the base.

For the most part, experts agree that before laying new material, the surface must be cleaned of any kind of old coatings. For the rest, the decision is yours.

The base is carefully leveled and cleaned of any kind of contaminants. Move on to further work.

First stage. Measure all sides of the room to determine the maximum width and length.

Second phase. Try to determine the width of the linoleum so that the number of seams in the flooring is minimal. Do not forget to add a margin of about 10-20% to the calculated values ​​​​for the selection of a pattern. The specific margin is determined according to the complexity of the pattern.

You also need to add 10 mm margin on each side to compensate for possible wall irregularities.

Third stage. Draw a floor plan on paper. It will help you calculate the required amount of material faster and more conveniently.

Fourth stage. Go to a specialty store with your plan and calculations.

Linoleum is divided into material for domestic, semi-commercial and commercial use. Additionally, the coating is classified according to the intensity of operation. All these points are reflected in the marking of the coating, which the consultant should help you figure out.

After delivering linoleum to your home, do not rush to unpack it immediately, especially if the weather is cold outside. Leave the material in the room for about a couple of days so that it has time to adapt to the ambient temperature.

Spread a roll of material around the room and leave for a while. This will give the coating the opportunity to age and take the form of the base. After that, you will be able to proceed directly to the flooring of the material, but first read the important recommendations of the experts so that the work goes on with the least effort and the finished coating is of the highest quality.

What you need to know for successful linoleum flooring?

When performing repair and finishing work, professionals adhere to a number of important recommendations. Consider them and you, performing linoleum flooring with your own hands.

Observe the required temperature and humidity conditions. Specific recommendations are given on the packaging or in the instructions for the material. Be sure to check them out. Violation of the manufacturer's recommendations will lead to the rapid delamination of linoleum with parallel decay and destruction of the substrate.

You can not lay linoleum on an uneven base. Open joints of reinforced concrete panels and joints of prefabricated screed elements are also prohibited.

Linoleum is laid in the last stages of a room renovation. Wooden plugs are pre-installed in the walls for mounting skirting boards. Nests for these elements are created at a height of about 15-20 mm from the floor surface with an average step of 1 m.

Linoleum flooring can only be done on a pre-primed base. For applying the primer, you can use any device designed for this purpose.

The joints of individual sheets of linoleum are usually fixed using cold welding. This material contributes to obtaining a connection with high strength characteristics. To get perfectly even joints, linoleum panels are first laid with a slight overlap, and then the excess material is cut off along the construction ruler. If desired, the joints can be decorated with moldings - special decorative plates.

Linoleum flooring step by step guide

First step. Cut the linoleum according to the pattern.

Second step. Spread the canvases on the floor of the room and let them mature for two days. During this time, wrinkles and dents should disappear. It is important that the room was not colder than +18 degrees.

Third step. Remove the leveled linoleum from the floor. Thoroughly clean and prime the substrate. Let the primer dry and apply the special adhesive to the floor using a notched trowel. Let the glue soak in for the time specified by the manufacturer in the instructions.

Fourth step. Lay a strip of linoleum on the floor, level it and smooth it firmly with a special trowel. It will allow you to get rid of excess air under the flooring. Linoleum begin to mount from any wall.

At the end, you will have to isolate the seams, install decorative strips if desired and mount the baseboard.

Seam insulation rules

Hot and cold welding methods can be used to fix the seams. The specific method is selected taking into account the type of flooring and the complexity of the seams. Hot welding allows you to get seams of higher strength. It is used when laying commercial and, as a rule, semi-commercial linoleum. At home, simple cold welding is usually sufficient.

It is carried out using a special compressor. It blows air to the working tools. The function of the adhesive material is performed by special filler rods.

Welding of seams is carried out after the adhesive composition used to connect the linoleum to the base has dried, i.e. in about a day.

Much easier to do. Such insulation of joints does not require the use of any special equipment.

There are two types of adhesive for cold welding: for newly laid coverings and for coverings laid a long time ago. The second glue has a thicker consistency. The principle of operation is the same for both types of glue.

The mechanism of action is extremely simple: you fill the space of the seam with glue, a special composition melts the edges of the canvases, which leads to their reliable fixation.

Features of installation of antistatic linoleum

There is a separate type of coating in question, known as antistatic linoleum. This material is produced in the form of tiles, for fixing which glue is used. When dried, the coating retains conductivity.

Antistatic linoleum is laid using a different technology. First you need to lay copper strips on the base that conduct static electricity. These strips are connected into a single structure and connected to a common grounding system.

When laying anti-static linoleum, it is important that the tiles fit as closely as possible to the base. The air from under the deck is removed using a special heavy roller weighing 65-70 kg.

In the process of fitting and trimming the material, try not to touch the copper strips. Only hot welding is suitable for processing joints. The air temperature in the process of performing such welding rises to several hundred degrees.

Welding cord can have a variety of colors. There are even fluorescent cords. Select a specific option based on the design of the room and your own preferences.

Linoleum belongs to the category of the least whimsical materials in care. However, this material still requires some attention from the owner.

To prevent the flooring from fading and becoming cracked, do not use active cleaners to wash linoleum. It is better to use compositions specially designed for cleaning this material.

Before arranging furniture, it is advisable to put special soft caps on its legs, which will not allow heavy furniture elements to leave holes and more serious damage in the linoleum.

Now you know how to lay linoleum on your own. Follow these instructions, and you can make repairs no worse than a professional master, while spending only on the purchase of the necessary materials and fixtures.

Linoleum - a coating that everyone likes

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself linoleum flooring

Here it is, rolled into beautiful rolls, lies in the middle of the room, the linoleum we bought. The whole family is thinking about where to get an uncle who can quickly and efficiently lay him on the floor.

Put your thoughts aside and do all the work yourself with your own hands - save family money and get moral pleasure from the work done. Approaching this issue without haste and thoroughly, having thought through everything and foreseeing all the nuances, your gender will be unrecognizably transformed.

Room preparation

Step 1. We vacate the room.

As always, all repair work begins with the most unpleasant and difficult - we take out all large-sized furniture and various household items from the room. We make the most of the space for activities. If linoleum is laid in the room where you live, for example, in a two-room apartment, then we lay linoleum in turn - first in one room, then in another. Furniture and household utensils, respectively, are transferred to the room where work is not being carried out.

If the furniture is too heavy to lift and you want to lay the linoleum without moving anything, then you will need to carefully measure and cut the material for every piece of furniture in the room. It should be borne in mind that, for example, putting a heavy cabinet directly on the material without lifting will not work for you - you will have to be content with neatly cut linoleum under the legs.

Step 2 Floor surface preparation.

The room is free, we proceed to the preparation of the floor surface itself. Regardless of what kind of floor you had before, before laying linoleum, it is necessary to ensure that the surface on which we lay linoleum is flat and clean.

We remove all skirting boards around the entire perimeter of the room, because in the process of work, we will cut the coating directly to the wall.

If the skirting board is planned to be reused, on top of the laid coating, we do it carefully, trying not to break it. We sequentially remove each plank, number it on the reverse side, put the same number on the wall so that during installation you do not have to solve the rebus where which segment was.

If the floor has been repaired for a long time, the floors have been painted many times, then it is almost impossible to remove the whole skirting boards. And if you also take into account that it used to be practiced to nail the plinth into the gap between the floor and the wall with nails 100 mm long, then it’s definitely better to buy new plinths. Yes, and look at the new coating, they will be much more beautiful.

We figured out the skirting boards, let's move on to the floor itself.

Of course, if a complete overhaul is being carried out in the apartment, then the best option to make the floor perfectly flat is to use it.

For a base made of concrete or a cement-sand screed, this is generally the best option.

But, basically, the floor that needs to be covered is either a typed tongue-and-groove painted board or an old parquet that has dried out from old age. The grooved board eventually bends in the transverse direction and “waves” are obtained on the floor, the old parquet falls out and has large differences between the planks.

If you do not plan to completely remove the old floor, then you can choose one of the many options on how to remove all these irregularities and make the surface even:

cover the floor with sheets of chipboard;

loop and fix the drop-down planks;

make a self-leveling floor using technology designed for this type of work and special leveling compounds.

Often with such a floor, another problem arises during prolonged use - it begins to creak very strongly. In this case, you will additionally have to carry out operations to eliminate the creak.

The whole point of preparatory operations should be to achieve a flat surface and a clean floor. Differences, ledges, pebbles left on the floor and other debris after covering the floor with linoleum will definitely appear, and in places of intense wear (for example, on the aisles), the coating will be worn or torn.

We achieve evenness of the surface by the above methods, and cleanliness - by thorough cleaning - we vacuum and wash the floor before laying linoleum.

Step 3 We prepare the necessary tools and conditions for laying linoleum.

Linoleum can only be laid at positive temperatures. The optimum temperature is from 15 to 25 ˚С. This is due to the fact that when cooled, this flooring loses its elasticity and becomes brittle. Because of the same feature, it is necessary to let the roll warm up completely if you brought it home in the winter. At negative temperatures outside, the warm-up time inside the room should be at least 12 hours.

Before cutting the sheet to the walls of the room, it is advisable to roll out the roll and let it rest in this state until the “waves” are removed.

The most necessary tools and materials

While the coating is aging, we prepare the tool. To mark and fit a piece, we need:

Ruler and tape measure;

Pencil;

Scissors;

Stationery knife.

If the laying of linoleum on the floor will be carried out in a large room (more than 25 square meters), it is necessary to purchase glue and tools for applying it to the floor and coating. In rooms with a smaller area, gluing the coating is not required, the so-called "free" laying is performed.

Proper laying of linoleum with your own hands in a room, an apartment toilet (on a wooden, concrete floor or tile)

Step 1. Sheet positioning.

Our sheets have “rested up” and you can start laying linoleum. We place the sheet in such a way that no gaps form along the perimeter, but, on the contrary, there is a uniform overlap around the entire perimeter of the room. You can immediately adjoin the wall to one of the sides of the sheet, provided that the wall is straight and a uniform gap of 3-5 mm is formed between the linoleum line and the wall. In this case, the work is simplified, and you will only have to cut a piece to three walls.

If you have a large room covered with several sheets, first we combine the joints of the sheets, and then we align everything relative to the perimeter of the room until an even overlap on the walls is formed.

Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor, it is necessary to cover it with plywood sheets.

Another important point, before you start cutting linoleum around the perimeter of the room. If you are laying linoleum with a pattern (for example, the pattern of linoleum imitates parquet laid in symmetrical squares), after all the alignment of the sheets, pay attention to the pattern. If it forms straight lines across the flooring, these lines should be parallel to the walls of the room and the wall should not "cut off" part of the pattern. If this happens, it is necessary to turn the entire plane of the laid sheets clockwise or counterclockwise and achieve parallelism.

Step 2 We cut the sheets to the walls.

For the last time, we check that the linoleum sheets overlap on the walls and that there are no gaps anywhere between the edge of the sheet and the wall and between the sheets themselves. If all is well, proceed to pruning.

We start from any convenient angle. We slightly bend the linoleum along the wall and make marks with a pencil on the reverse side of the coating so that when cutting off the excess strip, a gap of 3-5 mm remains between the coating and the wall. (see photo below)

Moving along the wall, we make such marks in increments of 20-30 cm.

We bend the linoleum completely, use a ruler to connect our marks and cut off the excess strip.

It was easier for me - on the reverse side, the coating had a pattern in the form of a cage, which allowed me to make a cut without connecting the marks, but to navigate along the lines on the canvas itself.

While there are no skills, it is necessary to make marks so that a small overlap of the coating on the wall is obtained than a large gap between the wall and the coating. It is better then to make another cut and precisely fit the edge of the linoleum to the wall. After 10 meters of cutting, you will have experience and you will start to set marks very accurately the first time.

Thus, we pass along the entire perimeter of the room and adjust our coating sheets.

Step 3 We cut the coating on the outer corners.

If the room has a large protruding corner (as in the diagram below), the cut must be started from this corner. Moreover, you must first pre-cut the corner, and then do the exact trimming as described in step No. 2.

To do this, after positioning the sheet with a uniform overlap on all walls, we measure 2 dimensions BUT and A1. We add 2 cm to each size for an exact cut and connect the points with a line. This will be the preliminary cut line along one corner wall.

Similarly, we measure the size B and IN 1 at the second wall of the protruding corner, add 2 cm to each size. This will be the preliminary cutting line along the second wall of the corner. Cut out the protruding corner according to the resulting markup.

Since we cut off the linoleum with stocks, we have an overlap of 2 cm on the walls of the protruding corner, so that the sheet lies against the corner and can be accurately cut, it is necessary to make a cut, as shown in the photo below

After this reception, the sheet will definitely fit to the corner, and the excess floor covering will go to the wall.

We make markings along the cut walls of the corner, as described in step No. 2, bend the corner and connect the marks with a ruler.

According to the exact markings obtained, we cut off the excess strip along one wall and similarly along the other.

This completes the process of fitting the flooring sheet to the walls of the room. It remains to make joints on the threshold, at the junction of pieces of different rooms. If you used several strips for laying linoleum, weld them and the joints on the thresholds. For the production of all these final works, it is necessary to let the coating rest for 1-2 days, so that it finally lies down in its new place.

Watch the video: we lay the material on an uneven surface

Video: How to lay on plywood

Video: Linoleum on the floor in the kitchen

In conclusion, I propose to watch a short video "Laying linoleum video", evaluate our work and express your opinion on the result in the comments.

Sincerely,

Ponomarev Vladislav.

Linoleum is a practical and externally attractive flooring that is found in houses, apartments, cottages, offices, shopping centers, public institutions ... Almost everywhere. How to lay linoleum, how to do it right - read on.

On what basis

Even when choosing a floor covering, the question arises of what to lay linoleum on. Is it necessary to prepare the base and if so, how seriously. The answer is simple: linoleum can be laid on any base. The main thing is that it be even, strong and clean. Preparation takes place and can be easy and quick if the ground is even. In this case, the floor is simply cleaned and dried. If the floor is with potholes, large irregularities, preparation takes longer. For correction, a screed or self-leveling mixtures can be used, a dry screed with sheet building material (plywood, OSB, MDF boards) is also used. It all depends on the type of foundation.

Concrete and wood floor

You can easily lay linoleum on a concrete floor. In general, there may be drops on the surface, the main thing is that they are not local - small and deep pits and tubercles are excluded. Changes can be, but smooth. If there are significant irregularities, before laying linoleum, it is better to fill in the leveling screed.

Lay this finish on a flat wooden floor. Many people think that under it the wood will rot. If the wood is dry, without signs of infection with fungi and mold, then nothing will happen to it. With proper installation, an airtight layer is obtained, so that moisture does not penetrate inside. If there are seams, they are welded, so that moisture penetration into them is unlikely. To prevent water from getting under, choose wide models and press them well to the floor. A more reliable way is to lay a self-adhesive sealing tape under the linoleum around the perimeter.

If the boardwalk itself is made correctly, with normal ventilation, then there is nothing for it to rot. If you are very worried, before laying linoleum, treat the floor with antiseptics.

If there are noticeable gaps in the plank floor, they will be visible on the floor after a while. If they are small, they can be puttied, using grinding to level the surface. Sometimes the floorboards buckle, rising slightly at the edges. Sanding such a floor will not work - a lot of nails. In this case, or if the gaps are too large, it is recommended to put sheet material on top of the boards - plywood, OSB, MDF. They are good because they do not have a very large thermal expansion, and the OSB does not yet absorb moisture (you can take moisture-resistant plywood), and this is important in wet rooms (in the kitchen, for example).

And fiberboard as a base for linoleum is not a very good option - with increasing humidity, they swell, fiberboard goes in waves. After drying, the original form is not restored, so that the linoleum laid on top is hunched and wrinkled.

Before laying linoleum, you need to lay or. This is necessary if the plank floor "plays", the boards sag. If you lay the coating immediately on the boards, it will crack in the places of deflection, and quite soon. And this means - the replacement of the flooring, and there may be problems with the boards - moisture can seep into the cracks.

That's what "with a run-up of seams" means

When laying any sheet material for leveling the floor under linoleum, it is laid with a run-out of seams - so that they do not match (like brickwork). Small seams are left between the sheets, which are then filled with elastic (non-hardening) mastic.

Is it possible to put new linoleum on the old coating

We must say right away that it is advisable to remove the old coating before laying linoleum. But this can be problematic and then flooring is allowed on top of an existing one. True, only if the old floor is even or irregularities can be repaired. New linoleum is placed on the old one, on tiles, on parquet. If there are defects in the base - chips, dents, protrusions - they are eliminated, sealed with putty, cut off, the seams between the tiles are rubbed so that the surface is even.

Lay linoleum on parquet, tile or other linoleum. But only under one condition - the base must be even

With old linoleum, as with a substrate, there are usually no problems. If there are bumps, they are pierced, filled with glue, the cracks are smeared with a repair compound - cold welding for type “C” linoleum or sealant. When laying new linoleum on the old one, there may be another problem - it will turn out too soft and significant depressions can form under the legs of the furniture.

On parquet, as well as on a plank floor, it is advisable to lay a substrate of sheet material - the planks can also “walk”, tearing the coating.

Glue or not

Before laying linoleum, you need to decide whether you will glue it or not. There is an opinion that it is not necessary to glue it in houses and apartments. It is pressed against skirting boards, furniture, large appliances, etc. All this "holds" him in place. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It usually works on hard semi-commercial and commercial types of coating, and does not work on softer household ones.

It's a matter of thermal expansion. In summer, when it's hot, linoleum expands "creeping out" from under furniture and appliances. In autumn, it shrinks to its previous size, but does not return under furniture. Waves and bumps form. Therefore, the majority agrees that it is necessary to fix it.

If you don't glue it, it might look like this

Just keep in mind that linoleum either does not need to be glued at all, or glued completely. Glue in some places - almost guaranteed to get humps and swellings after a while.

What to glue

Before laying linoleum, you need to figure out how to glue it. If the room is small, household linoleum is laid in one piece on a smooth base (sheet material, old linoleum, etc.), you can fix it with double-sided tape. It is fixed securely, but due to thermal expansion, humps can form between the adhesive tapes. Therefore, if you glue linoleum, then glue it.

There are two types of adhesives:

The first option is more familiar to us, but when changing the coating, we have to suffer for a long time, tearing off the coating and glue residue from the base. The fixation holds “on shift” no less reliably, but allows you to calmly re-lay it several times (from 5 to 8, depending on the composition).

Fixations

Fixings are used for laying residential and semi-commercial linoleum. If we talk about the price per liter, then fixing is much more expensive. But her consumption is much less (100-180 g / square), so gluing one square meter will be cheaper. From all points of view, this is the best option. Here are a few normal fixers you can work with:

There are other manufacturers, new products appear every day. But, before buying, carefully read the instructions. See what can be used on your base, with your type of coverage.

Adhesive for linoleum

Definitely do not use glue with a solvent (neoprene). Technologies have changed so that such glue gives a color change (red spots appear). Only marmoleum (material based on natural ingredients) can be glued with this glue.

If you decide to use glue, here are brands that give good results:

If you need to save money, household linoleum “with pile”, on a jute or foam base, can be glued to PVA or Bustilat M. If it is placed on concrete, screed or other similar coating, first the glue is diluted with water (1 to 1), the surface is primed with this composition (possibly twice). After that, PVA or Bustilat is applied and the coating is rolled “wet”.

How to glue the joints of linoleum

To connect the joints of linoleum there is a special glue. It is called "cold welding for linoleum". These are small tubes with a sharp nose, which the composition is filled directly into the joint. It does not so much glue as it dissolves adjacent areas of the coating, creating an airtight seam.

There are two types of cold welding for linoleum:

When laying linoleum, of course, type A is used. Pay attention to the instructions for use. There are different types, they require different drying times.

If you haven’t worked with cold welding for linoleum joints before, practice on scraps beforehand. When you work out the technology, and understand what and how to do, you can start gluing joints indoors.

Another point: the glue for connecting the joints of linoleum emits harmful substances until it polymerizes. Therefore, windows and doors are opened in the room, providing ventilation. It is better to work with gloves, and a respirator will not hurt.

How to lay linoleum with your own hands

In order for self-laid linoleum to please the eye, not swell and wrinkle, it is necessary to complete several mandatory points. The first is related to the preparation of the foundation. You already know that it should; but be even. In addition, it must be dry and clean. No dust, no greasy or other stains. We collect everything with a vacuum cleaner, remove stains with a suitable agent, dry everything thoroughly. We do all this carefully: dust impairs adhesion to the base, debris particles will eventually come through the coating.

The second prerequisite: before laying linoleum, it must be “aged” for some time in a straightened state. Preferably on site. It is rolled out, left for at least 2 days, but better - for 5-7 days. So he straightens out, takes "working" dimensions. After that, you can start cutting.

How to crop

Let's start with how to cut linoleum. There are two options - a knife and scissors. Both of them can work normally, they just have to be sharp.

It is more convenient for someone to use a clerical knife, but a shoemaker's or a sharply sharpened kitchen knife is also suitable, although there are special ones. They have a retractable blade, like utility knives, but the handle is curved and the blade hardly bends.

On a clerical knife, the protrusions that hold the blade must be iron. In this case, the blade is more elastic and there is less chance that the cut will go to the side. That's precisely because the blade can "lead" some craftsmen prefer powerful scissors. To make it easier to cut, they make an incision, and then, without making cutting movements, they simply rip the coating along the intended line.

Now about where to cut. Roll out the linoleum so that it goes a little on the walls. If there are several canvases, an overlap of at least 5 cm is made at the junction. If there is a pattern, lay out the canvases in such a way as to achieve a match. Then the junction will not be noticeable.

Linoleum is cut in the corner, the joint remains overlapped and cut off after gluing the main part. The canvas is pressed to the floor, cut off with a knife or scissors. Please note that if work is carried out in a cool room, in summer the coating from high temperatures will increase in size. If you cut the canvas close to the wall, in the summer a roller forms near the baseboards. Then, at lower temperatures, it can stretch, but in the summer it spoils the look. Therefore, when cutting, step back from the wall about 1 cm.

Glue to the base

If you decide to lay linoleum without gluing, it is usually fixed along the baseboards with double-sided tape. The same material is glued in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe doors. In this case, turn off the edges, stick adhesive tape on the base. We return the edges to their place, carefully level the coating. After making sure that it lies evenly, without distortions and waves, remove the protective tape from the adhesive tape and glue the coating.

If you work with glue, you act a little differently. We twist the coating to half the length. The composition is applied to the floor (strictly according to the instructions). If there is a junction, a strip about 35 cm wide without glue is left on both sides of it. After waiting for the time set according to the instructions, the linoleum is rolled out again, pressed well.

According to the technology, a pressure roller is required - a heavy cylinder (about 50 kg in weight), movably fixed on the handle, which squeezes out air and presses the coating to the base, ensuring good bonding. If there is no roller, they take a plastic trowel, which is used when and everything is pressed well with it. You can use a board wrapped in felt or felt, or something similar.

Then glue the other side. If the canvas was laid in one piece, we can assume that the laying of linoleum is over. It remains to fix the plinth. If there are joints, we continue.

Seam processing

If there are two or more canvases, the seams will need to be processed. There is a simple way - take a T-shaped metal bar and fix it at the junction (attached to self-tapping screws or dowels, depending on the type of base). The method is not very aesthetic, but reliable. This is exactly what they do if two pieces of linoleum with different colors are joined under the door.

A more aesthetic way is to use "cold welding for linoleum" glue. First you need to cut off the excess material at the junction. We take a metal ruler (a level or a rule will do), apply it at the junction, cut both sheets with a knife along it, remove the extra strips. It is very important to cut through both canvases at once. In this case, if the pattern is chosen correctly, the connection is imperceptible, since the two canvases match perfectly. If the base under the linoleum is hard, you can put something soft under the joint - a piece of felt, linoleum, etc. Then it will be easier to cut both canvases at a time.

We unscrew the non-glued parts of the coating along the seam, apply glue, wait, if necessary, for time according to the instructions, glue the coating in place, roll it with a roller. We wait for the time required for the glue to dry (according to the instructions).

Next, we take cold welding for linoleum joints and wide masking tape. We glue the junction with this adhesive tape, then, with a clerical knife, cut it along the junction. This is necessary to protect the coating from accidental ingress of the composition. It is reactive and will melt the coating, leaving an unsightly stain. The next steps are:

If everything is done correctly, the joint is almost invisible. While it is not necessary to test it - several hours are required for the final polymerization. But that's all. Linoleum is laid and you know how to lay it with your own hands.

How to lay linoleum correctly, laying methods

Linoleum, being one of the most common coatings, has earned a reputation as a proven and reliable floor covering, not unimportant advantage of this coating is the ease of installation...

Wanting to get a little savings, any homeowner can lay linoleum in his house on his own.

Make a plan of the room and carefully measure all the walls. Put all the dimensions on the drawing, remember, the walls can be concave or uneven, so check all the dimensions several times.

Linoleum must be taken with a margin, so that it goes on each of the walls by 5-10 cm, taking into account niches and openings. In future cutting, you need to take into account and try to make as few joints of linoleum as possible.

Floor preparation

Laying linoleum can only be done on a well-leveled surface; dust and small crumbs are not allowed on the floor. The thinner the linoleum, the more critical the requirements for the base, any pebble or tubercle will be very noticeable after laying the coating, and as a result, scuffs or cracks may form in such a place.

The concrete floor, if necessary, is leveled with a leveler or a special repair compound. Further laying of linoleum on a concrete floor is possible only after it has completely dried.

The wooden floor is checked for the absence of protruding nails and self-tapping screws; on a plank floor, made along the logs, linoleum will repeat all the unevenness of the boards and can lie like a washboard.

It is desirable to cover such a floor with plywood or other sheet material intended for flooring. The joints between the sheets are leveled (polished) and puttied.

When to lay linoleum: before wallpapering or after?

By laying new linoleum before wallpapering the walls, there is a risk of damage to the coating by the legs of the stepladder, or falling tools.

But, if you have no doubts about your accuracy, then it is better to lay linoleum before pasting the walls with wallpaper, since it is quite problematic to bring and place a roll in a room with newly pasted walls, since until the glue under the wallpaper has dried, they are quite vulnerable to mechanical damage, and when fitting, bending the ends of linoleum onto clean and new wallpapers is not entirely good.

There are two ways to lay linoleum on the floor:

1. Free laying - is carried out mainly in small rooms up to 20 m2. With free laying, linoleum is kept from shifting due to the pressed edges along the walls with the help of skirting boards and thresholds.

2. The linoleum sheet is glued to the base of the floor with mastic or glue. This is a more time-consuming process, since it requires the correct implementation of the technology.

Necessary tools for laying linoleum

1. Roulette
2. metal ruler
3. Linoleum knife with replaceable blades
4. Double-sided tape for linoleum
5. Marking pencil
6. Adhesive for seam welding
7. Mastic or glue (in case of gluing linoleum to the base)
8. Notched putty trowel

The temperature in the room when laying linoleum should not be below 18 degrees.

Preparation before replacing linoleum

1. It is necessary to completely clear the room of furniture and any items on the floor.
2. Dismantle old skirting boards
3. Dismantle old flooring
4. Check the floor surface for defects (hollows, bumps, cracks)
5. Repair the floor surface if necessary
6. If the floor is plank and made along the logs, it is necessary to lay plywood, thereby leveling it.
7. Old concrete pavement needs to be primed
8. Inspect the junction of the skirting boards and walls, if necessary, level the walls with plaster near the floor, achieving complete adhesion of the skirting board to the wall.

In what cases is linoleum glued?

Gluing linoleum to the base is necessary in a number of cases: the area of ​​​​the room is over 20 m2, there may be heavy objects in the room that require periodic movement, commercial flooring is used for flooring in a room with heavy traffic (offices, hotels, etc.)

Preparing linoleum for laying

When buying linoleum in a store, you need to find out what kind of shrinkage linoleum gives, for example, linoleum on a felt backing can shrink significantly, and PVC linoleum on a foam backing can stretch over time.

If the linoleum is brought into the room from the cold, before laying it must be kept indoors in a rolled roll for at least a day, otherwise the linoleum will not have time to acquire the necessary plasticity necessary for laying.

Linoleum laying

If the room is wide enough, the roll is brought into the room, unfolded and spread out in such a way that it goes on the walls everywhere and covers the niches (under the battery, in the doorway, etc.).

If the room is narrow (corridor) and does not allow you to unfold the linoleum, the roll can be deployed in the nearest room, and then, having folded it, bring it in and lay it in place. Before the final trimming, it is advisable to let the linoleum lie down for 1-2 days in the unfolded state.

After making sure once again that all the niches and walls are overlapped, the linoleum is trimmed along the walls and openings, taking into account the size of the allowance for shrinkage of this type of linoleum received in the store. In especially passable places of the room and in the area of ​​the threshold, linoleum can be fixed to the floor using a double-sided tape.

If linoleum is planned to be glued, then before the final trimming, rolling a roll from one edge to the center of the room, glue or mastic is applied to the floor with a spatula. At the junction of the canvases and along the edges along the walls, the glue is applied after the final trimming.

Gradually unwinding the roll, the linoleum is pressed or rolled with a heavy roller or cork board. Having reached the end of the room, the second part of the linoleum rolls down and the operation is repeated in the opposite direction, after which it is possible to make the final trimming along the walls and openings.

After the final trimming of the linoleum, the joints are welded with a special glue, the edges near the walls are pressed with a plinth, and an overhead threshold is mounted in the doorway.

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