The device of a roof from a natural tile. Installation of natural tiles: basic calculations and technology for laying ceramic roofing

Cement-sand tiles are heavy, so at the design stage it is necessary to lay the increased strength of the foundation, load-bearing walls and truss system. Tiling is possible on any type of roof, the recommended angle of inclination of the slopes is 22 - 60 °.

Base and framing

The rafter system of a tiled roof must be strong. The distance is determined by the design documentation, depends on the calculated load and the length of the rafter legs, while taking into account the climatic region of the building, snow and wind loads, and the total weight of the roofing.

The greater the distance between the rafters, the thicker the sheathing beam will be needed. The recommended section of the rafters is at least 50 * 150 mm.

Before mounting the battens, the plane of the rafters is leveled: fluctuations in surface irregularities should be within -5 to +5 mm per 2 m.

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Laying waterproofing

A waterproofing membrane or film is laid on top of the rafters parallel to the cornice overhang with the front side (with logo) up. The rolls begin to roll out from below and move upwards without pulling tightly, leaving the membrane between the rafters to sag by 1-2 cm.

The size of the overlap of one roll on another is usually indicated by dotted lines on the film and is 10 cm. If the slope is steep, then the overlap is increased to 15–20 cm and the membrane is glued with double-sided tape.

Waterproofing materials are fixed on the rafters with a stapler, and then with counter-lattice bars.

It is unacceptable to make cuts or breaks in the film, folds are also undesirable. If the angle of inclination of the slope is less than 16 °, then a solid base is made under the CPU tile, on which.

Installation of the counter-lattice

A counter-lattice is mounted on top of the film on the rafters - bars 30 x 50 mm or 50 x 50 mm. They are nailed one after the other not close, a distance of 5-10 cm is left between them for free air circulation and ventilation.

On the ridge, the ends of the bars of the counter-lattice from two slopes are cut off and tightly joined.

Lathing installation

Bars 3-5 cm thick are used for the crate. The location of the first bar from the eaves depends on how much the tile will hang over the gutter system.

The step of the crate can be from 31 to 35 cm, the exact value is indicated in the accompanying documentation by the manufacturer and depends on the angle of inclination of the ramp.

Installing a drip

The cornice is the most prominent place on the roof, important from a functional and decorative point of view:

• drainage is done here;
• the entrance of the ventilation hole for air intake into the under-roof space.

A metal dropper is mounted on a cornice board, its total length is equal to the length of the slope plus 0.3 m on each side. The overlap of the waterproofing membrane on the cornice is made at least 15 cm, it is left on top of the drip bar. An open ventilation gap is provided under the cornice board.

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Installation of ordinary tiles

To distribute the load of cement-sand tiles on the roof during work, it is preliminarily laid out in 5-6 pieces, evenly placing the stacks along the slope.

Tiles are laid in rows along the roof from bottom to top from right to left. The first and final rows of tiles are preliminarily laid out without fixing, markings are made from them using a coloring cord. Fastening is carried out with galvanized self-tapping screws in special holes, without tightening the fasteners to the stop.

Fastening with self-tapping screws to the crate is carried out only for those tile elements that are located in the extreme rows along the perimeter, as well as trimmed parts near the valleys. If the slope of the slope is steep (over 60 °), then the entire tile is fixed with self-tapping screws, regardless of its location.

Arrangement of the valley

Waterproofing at the junction of the slopes is done more carefully: first, a roll is rolled along the gutter from top to bottom, then the film rolls are overlapped from one slope to another.

On top of the film, in addition to the main crate, two more of its types are stuffed:

• diagonal crate - along the gutter of the valley;
• speeded up - parallel to the main one.

Aluminum elements of the valley are installed along the gutter from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm and fastened to wooden bars with brackets. Foam seals are installed along the valley elements.

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Skate formation

Ridge elements of cement-sand tiles are installed after completion of all other types of work.

Special holders are mounted over the connection of the slopes, and in them there is a ridge bar, which is covered with an insulating sealing tape with ventilation holes. Then, ridge tiles are successively “mounted” on the beam.

Separate ridge elements cling one after another with the help of special clamps, which are attached to the bar with self-tapping screws. End caps are fixed with stainless steel screws.

Compliance with the installation technology of cement-sand tiles will provide the roof with durability and save it from leaks.

Ceramic roofing is very beautiful, but quite expensive. If you are a good craftsman, you can try to save on installation. Now I will tell you how to lay ceramic tiles yourself.

Material calculation

To calculate the number of tiles, you need to know the size of the roof, but not only. Tiles are laid with an overlap, the amount of overlap is determined depending on the slope of the slope:

• Up to 16 degrees - from 10 cm;
• Up to 30 - from 8;
• Over 30 - from 7.

The laying of ceramic tiles on the roof is carried out along the counter-lattice and the crate. The second serves as a solid base for the coating, the first provides the necessary ventilation gap.

For the crate, a sawn coniferous bar with a maximum moisture content of 25%, without knots (SNiP, paragraph II-25-80) is used.

• The step of the crate (and hence the number of boards) depends on the slope of the roof and on the model of the tile (the order is from 30 centimeters);
• The minimum cross-section of the bars for the crate and counter-crate is 3 by 5 centimeters;
• For complex roofs or long slopes, a square beam with a side of 5 cm is used.

To calculate the amount of material and its final cost, you can use the services of our company.

Ventilation and thermal insulation

The technology of laying ceramic tiles involves the installation of a ventilation system in the under-roof space. This is necessary so that condensate does not accumulate inside the roofing cake, which leads to the destruction of the insulation and the rafter system.

There are two options for a roofing pie. In both cases, the main layers are the same:

• Vapor barrier (bottom layer);
• insulation;
• Waterproofing.

The difference between single-layer and double-layer ventilation is that in the single-layer version there is only one air gap, directly between the waterproofing and the roof. Two-layer implies the presence of two layers, the second - between the waterproofing and insulation.

The choice of technology depends on the waterproofing material. Immediately on the insulation, you can only put membranes with a vapor permeability of at least 750 grams per square, which will protect the insulation from moisture and remove condensate to the outside.

note

In addition to the device of air gaps for roof ventilation, when laying ceramic tiles, special elements are used:

• Skating;
• Cornice.

The types of elements are different:

• Rigid aerators;
• Roll ventilation films;
• Ventilation grates;
• Ventilation tiles.

Elements are selected depending on the type and slope of the roof.

The brand of insulation and the thickness of the layer depend on the region. Examples (for roofs in the Moscow region):

• Mineral wool P175 (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.072) - 40 centimeters;
• Fiberglass (coefficient 0.044) with a windproof membrane - 24 centimeters;
• Expanded polystyrene (0.032) - 15 centimeters.

Warming and waterproofing

1. The vapor barrier layer is attached to the rafters from the inside (from the side of the ceiling) with vertical and horizontal overlaps of at least twenty centimeters.
2. Fixed with wooden slats. In the future, when arranging the ceiling, the panels (boards) should not come into contact with the vapor barrier.
3. The insulation is cut into blanks along the width of the step between the rafters and placed between the rafters in a spacer.

Mounting options for the top waterproofing layer

1. The installation of the film directly on the insulation is carried out with the steam outlet side outward, i.e. towards the roofing.
2. The film should be rolled out along the eaves along the rafters, starting from the bottom row.
3. The recommended overlap when installing the next row is approximately 10 cm for steep roofs. With a steepness of less than 22 degrees, it is increased to 20 cm or the joints are glued with double-sided tape.

note

Other methods:

• When using polyethylene-based membranes, the film is stretched over the rafters with a sag of one to two centimeters. At the same time, at least two centimeters should remain from it to the insulation. In frost, the film is stretched without sagging.
• With a small roof slope (within 16 centimeters), a built-up roof can be used as a waterproofing layer. To do this, it is necessary to make a continuous flooring and fill it with trapezoidal slats of the counter-lattice up to 5 centimeters thick.

Our work

Lathing and counter lathing

1. Along the rafters, on top of the waterproofing film, we lay the bars of the counter-lattice with a length of approximately 1.3 meters.
2. We fix with galvanized nails every 0.3 meters not higher than the marker line on the film.
3. At the joints of the opposite bars on the ridge, we cut the boards at an angle so that the joint is even. The angle of the cut will depend on the slope of your roof.
4. We leave a ventilation gap of about 10 centimeters between the beams of the valley or the hip ridge and the main counter-lattice.
5. We lay the lathing bars parallel to the earth's surface, starting from the overhangs.
6. The step between the first two bars (on the overhang) is from 32 to 39 cm (measured along the outer edges of the bars).
7. We put the third bar under the ridge, at a distance of three centimeters from the junction of the bars of the counter-lattice. If the roof is steeper than 30 degrees - at a distance of two centimeters.
8. We measure the distance between the second and third beams along their upper faces.
9. We divide the resulting figure by the number of intermediate bars so that the step between them does not exceed the recommended parameters:

• Roof slope up to 22 degrees - 31-32 cm.
• Up to 30 - up to 33.5;
• Over 30 - up to 34.5.

Similarly, we install the crate on other slopes.

How to lay ceramic tiles

Attention: in this article I will only tell you how to lay ceramic tiles in a row, i.e. on the slopes. In addition to the slopes, the roof has more nodes:

• valleys;
• Ridge (except hipped roofs);
• Cornices;
• Connections (to pipes, skylights, etc.);
• Gables have pediments;
• The hip and hipped ones have ridges.

Another article is devoted to the installation of all these elements.

Tiling technology:

1. Check the roof, prepared for laying ceramic tiles, for deviations from the plane. For two meters of the roof, the deviations for the lathing bars should not exceed half a centimeter.
2. Lay out the tiles on opposite slopes in columns of five or six tiles.
3. Lay out two rows, upper and lower, without fastening. If the length of the roof and the width of the tiles are non-multiple, use halves of tiles.
4. Mark on the crate the extreme rows of tiles. Additional marking - after 3-5 intermediate rows.
5. The bottom row of tiles should protrude to the limits of the roof by a third of the diameter of the gutter passing under the eaves.
6. Lay tiles from the bottom up. Fasten the first row with screws 4.5 mm by 5 centimeters or anti-wind clamps.
7. On gable roofs, tiles are laid in the direction from one end to the other.
8. On the hips - from the middle of the slope, which must be beaten off with a marking cord from the top to the middle of the eaves.

note

Laying tiles on triangular slopes is necessary in the following sequence:

• Middle vertical row;
• Bottom horizontal row:
• Second row from the bottom, from the middle to the ridges;
• Third, etc. up to the top.

What tiles should be fastened with hardware?

• Bottom row (cornice);
• Upper (near the skate);
• Lateral (on the ends and ridges);
• Any cut tiles;
• On connections.

If the area is characterized by large wind loads, you need to fix all the tiles.

For different models of tiles, screws (self-tapping screws) 4.5 x 50 galvanized or universal stainless steel kleimers can be used.

Laying ceramic tiles with your own hands is a long and energy-intensive process that requires high qualifications from the installer. Moreover, we are talking about expensive material.

Our company has extensive experience in laying roofing, ceramic tiles are no exception. Entrust this matter to us, and you will receive a beautiful high-quality roof quickly and inexpensively.

Natural ceramic tiles are considered to be one of the oldest roofing materials. During this time, it has proven to consumers excellent performance characteristics, such roofs have been standing for many decades, or even centuries.

Modern technologies and materials have allowed manufacturers to significantly improve the characteristics of ceramic tiles and eliminate traditional shortcomings. One of the disadvantages was considered to be the great complexity and laboriousness of roofing work. Now this problem is not considered urgent, the designers have developed special locks, due to which not only the laying of tiles is facilitated and accelerated, but also the reliability, durability and tightness of the roof are significantly increased.

Ceramic tiles belong to the elite coating, such roofs can only be seen on prestigious houses, historical or religious buildings. Ordinary consumers are of little interest in the technology of installing tiles, but they all pay attention to the appearance. And it depends on two components.

Prices for ceramic tiles

Ceramic tiles

Geometry of tiles

The more complex the geometry, the more expensive the material. The fact is that the productivity of industrial equipment largely depends on the geometry, and this factor has a decisive influence on the cost of production.

What profile can a tile have?

1. Flat. The simplest profile and the cheapest tile. It is made on continuous pressing lines with further piece cutting. The disadvantage is that the strength of the fastening raises doubts among some developers, and a large overlap area reduces the useful dimensions of each tile.

   

   

2. Tray. Traditional European material, often used in places of worship and monasteries. Hence the second name "Monk-Nun". In all operational parameters, it surpasses the flat one.

   

3. S-shaped. In terms of tightness of the coating, it occupies a leading position, the original form completely eliminates the wetting of the truss system due to oblique rain.

   

   

There are also differences between the types of locks for fixing individual tiles, but they do not affect the installation technology.

Ceramic tiles are a piece of roofing material that has a lot of advantages over other coatings. For example, the life of a tiled roof is hundreds of years. Learn more about the advantages of shingles, its disadvantages and characteristics can be

Features of processing external surfaces

In ancient times, ceramic tiles had only one color, which depended on the chemical composition of the clay. At present, technology has gone so far as to allow manufacturers to change not only the color, but also the physical characteristics of the finishing front surfaces of the tiles.

Modern ceramic tiles resemble the traditional ones in only two things: the name and the material of manufacture. All other characteristics: appearance, size and shape, physical and operational characteristics are significantly different. The laying technology has also undergone significant changes, now the work is done much easier and faster. But this does not mean that ceramic tiles are as easy to install as metal roofing. As before, only the most experienced, responsible and conscientious roofers can perform such work.

Conventionally, the technology can be divided into two large and equally important stages: preparatory and main.

Preparatory stage

At this stage, the technology provides for the construction of a truss system, lathing, special layers of hydroprotection, etc. Let us consider these works in more detail.

For the installation of tiles, it is necessary to prepare measuring tools, a grinder with a diamond blade for cutting tiles, a screwdriver, tongs and pliers, a stapler and a wood saw.

Important. During laying, be sure to follow the safety rules, work with safety systems, protect your respiratory organs and eyes.

Step 1.

To do this, you should find out the number of columns (vertical rows) of the tiles. In this case, it must be taken into account that the extension beyond the extreme side rafters should not exceed 33 cm.

Make calculations very carefully, tiles are an expensive material, excesses have a negative impact on the total estimated cost of the roof.

Each slope must be calculated separately, taking into account the range and number of special additional elements and tiles, the need for cutting, the length of skates and valleys, the presence of chimneys, ventilation pipes and other utilities. Then the data is summarized and only after that the material is purchased. Elements of the drainage system are purchased separately.

Step 2 Drip installation. It is needed to drain condensate that falls on the protective membrane. The element is nailed along the entire length of the eaves with an overlap of about 10 cm. When joining in the valleys, the metal strips are cut at the appropriate angles, the amount of overlap depends on the angle parameters.

Step 3 Installation of crates in valleys. These are very complex and most dangerous sections of the truss system, it is here that leaks most often appear, wooden structures rot prematurely. In the valleys, nail the bars of the diagonal counter-lattice to the rafter legs, the lower ends should be cut flush with the metal cornice strips. In the valley, waterproofing is necessarily mounted, you can use any modern canvas.

Step 4 Nail the membrane along the entire length of the slopes, direction from bottom to top, overlap within 10–15 cm. The canvas is fixed to the rafter legs with a stapler. The membrane is glued to the dropper of the cornice overhang with double-sided tape. Avoid wrinkles.

Step 5 Nail the bars of the counter-lattice, they are fixed to the rafters over the membrane.

Practical advice. The length of the bars is not more than 1.5 m, leave holes between them for natural ventilation of the under-roof space.

In order to make it convenient and safe to work on a slope, a temporary counter-lattice can be nailed to the bars in several places; it is used only for the movement of workers. In the future, as the main counter-lattice is made, the temporary bars are removed.

Step 6 Cover the valley and the ridge on the other side of the slope. The overlap of the material on the triangular slope should be approximately 5 cm. The upper row is always laid on the lower one, the overlap in these places is at least ten centimeters.

Laying material on the ridge of the roof

Step 7 Mount the counter grille on triangular and rectangular slopes. If the roof is complex hipped, then the bars are nailed on the ridges along the junction line of the slopes, then the vertical bars of the counter-lattice are stuffed, be sure to leave a gap between them and the diagonal ones for ventilation.

Step 8 Along the perimeter of the roof along the cornice overhang, nail the lower bar of the crate; at the docking points, it must be filed for a tight connection. Cover the ventilation gap with perforated tape.

Installation of the lower bars

Step 9 Installing the bottom railing. This is already a more complex and very responsible technological operation, it requires very careful markup. First you need to know exactly the position of the bracket for fixing the gutter and the tiles of the first row.

Do not forget that the overhang of the tiles into the gutter should not exceed a third of its diameter. Specific values ​​are further adjusted depending on the vertical distance between the gutter and the tiles.

After fitting several times, finally mark the position of the batten under the top of the shingles. Nail the bars of the counter-lattice only under the level, they must be strictly in a horizontal position.

Step 10 Nail the upper ridge bars of the counter-batten. Place them at a distance of 3 cm from the ridge line. The final marking of the position of the bars along the entire slope is best done with a special chopping rope.

Step 11 Installation of the crate on the slopes. First, the calculation of the distance and marking is done. Take these operations very seriously, all further work on laying the roof depends on them.

Important. The calculation of the counter-lattice must be done with such a condition that whole rows of tiles fit on the slope without fail. Such work can only be performed by professional roofers, amateurs should not try to do them. The consequences of the mistake are the need to completely dismantle not only the roof, but also the counter-lattice.

Prices for a safety belt from various manufacturers

Safety belt

How to do the calculation and markup?

1. Measure the distance between the bottom support bar and the last one near the ridge.
2. Remember that the distance at the overhang should be within 32–39 cm, in other areas the crate pitch is 31.2–34.5 cm. The parameters may vary depending on the manufacturer, the exact data is always written in the instructions.
3. Divide the resulting length by the size of the allowable step so that you get an integer number of rows.
4. With a tape measure, make marks on the first and last vertical rails of the counter-batten.
5. The marking of the rows must be done with a special marking cord. Beat off your lines for each row of the counter-lattice.

Please note that during the manufacture of the counter-lattice, roofers never use templates, but mark the position of each bar individually. This algorithm of actions significantly reduces the likelihood of errors. With this, the first stage is completed, you can proceed to the second.

Tiling technology

Installation of tiles begins after the installation of the drainage system, in extreme cases after screwing the gutter hooks. Each manufacturer of drainage systems recommends its own technology, you should read the instructions and follow their requirements.

Step 1. Work should begin with the gutters of the valley, they divert water to weirs. The elements are fixed to the crate with special brackets in increments of ≈30 cm.

Step 2 Install the first gable tile on the gable overhang.

Important. On the reverse side of the tile there is a special support spike, its presence is caused by the technological features of production. This spike is not needed for the first row, it should be carefully knocked down with a hammer. Work carefully, do not split the surface of the tiles. If the spike is left in place, it will interfere with the proper installation of the coating.

Step 3 Mark 90 cm from the edge of the gable tile to the left. This is the distance between the three vertical columns of the tile. Make such marks along the entire length of the slope, then use a string to mark the entire height of the roof. The lines will help to constantly control the correct position of the tiles, which simplifies the installation of the roof and makes various technological errors unlikely.

Step 4. Lay out the first bottom row, attach each tile to the lathing rail with nails or self-tapping screws. To do this, you need to drill holes in the comb.

Step 5 Lay out the vertical column of the gable row. All gable tiles also need to be fixed, but with at least two self-tapping screws.

Scheme of laying tiles, correct pruning. Roof tiles cut in half lengthwise are shown in pink.

Carefully check the position of the rows made. Everything is in order - excellent. Further, the tiles are laid out from right to left from bottom to top. In these areas, nothing is nailed, which greatly speeds up the process of covering the roof. In the places of the valleys and at the ridge, the tiles again need to be screwed. Ridge elements are fixed with special devices.

Fastening of the spinal timber and tiles near the valley

Laying the first tiles on the ridge

Skate tiling. Fastening of the lower extreme tile of the ridge

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Video - Ceramic tile laying technology

Installation of ceramic tiles is a complex process for a person without experience, requiring reinforcement of the roof truss structure. A ceramic tile weighs ten times more than a metal tile, since its base is clay. Any mistakes when laying roofing material can lead to serious problems, so it is better to entrust all work to professionals. But if you are confident in yourself and your abilities, then first read the installation instructions for ceramic tiles, given in this article.

Installation rules

Remember the basic rules for installing ceramic tiles, which will make your work easier:

• Installation is carried out from right - to the left, from below - up
• Before laying the slabs, they are lifted 5-6 pieces per roof and evenly distributed over it
• Compared to a metal roof, a ceramic tile roof requires 15-20 percent reinforcement of the truss structure.
• The optimal slope of the roof for the installation of ceramic tiles is 50 degrees. Minimum slope - 11 degrees
• Lathing and counter-latticing step - 30 centimeters
• It is better to deliver tiles to the construction site immediately before the start of work.
• Transportation of ceramic tiles is carried out by trucks on pallets. The weight of one element is from 2 to 4 kilograms

Shingles calculation

Use the table to determine the number of tile tiles. Useful width and length - the dimensions of the tile. Measure the area of ​​the roof and make the appropriate calculations.

Should you use ceramic tiles?

Many people have a question: “Is it necessary to cover the roof with ceramic tiles at all?”. After all, it is difficult to install, and this process is laborious, because it is necessary to lay one element at a time. It is much easier and faster to cover the roof with ondulin or metal tiles. Let's try to answer this question.

Here are some of the benefits of ceramic tiles that make some homeowners use them as roofing material:

• Ecological purity. Ceramic tiles are made from clay according to all requirements. Thanks to firing at a temperature of 1000 degrees, the material acquires a brown-red tint.
• Duration of operation. Ceramic tiles can last up to 100 years! And there will be no corrosion. This material is durable and reliable, non-flammable and noise-absorbing.
• Uniqueness. A roof covered with ceramic tiles is fundamentally different from others. But again, this is a matter of taste.
• High resistance to ultraviolet radiation, precipitation
• Easy to replace damaged roof sections

Disadvantages:

• Big weight
• High price
• Difficulty of installation
• Brittleness under high mechanical stress

To use ceramic tiles or not - the choice is yours. Compare all the advantages and disadvantages, compare them with other roofing materials and make the right choice!

Video about the installation of ceramic tiles

The technology of laying natural roof tiles has a number of features that must be observed when performing work. Houses were covered with ceramics hundreds of years ago, but so far it has not lost its relevance and popularity among homeowners, despite modern roofing materials that can imitate natural tiling with sufficient quality. But, unfortunately, not every owner can afford the installation of ceramic tiles, as it belongs to the elite materials. In addition to the high cost of the material itself, laying it will also be expensive, because beautifully and correctly laid tiles require the participation of highly qualified craftsmen.

Features of a ceramic tile roof

Like any other natural material, baked clay tiles have many positive characteristics. But it is not without its drawbacks, the main of which is its massiveness. The weight of the ceramic coating is from 40 to 70 kg per square meter, which involves strengthening the truss structure. This is achieved either by increasing the cross section of the rafters, which is not at all necessary, or by reducing their pitch. But in both cases, material costs increase significantly.

Installation of natural tiles with a roof slope of up to 22 degrees requires an additional waterproofing layer. And with a slope of more than 50 degrees, the laying technology requires additional fastening of the tiled elements with screws or kleimers.

Ceramic tiles are able to create perfect roofing systems and high-quality coatings on roofs of any architectural form.

Additional details, on the one hand, reduce the time of work, but some of them, on the contrary, complicate the installation of the roof and increase the time for its construction. The tile set includes the following items:

• privates;
• skating;
• walk-throughs;
• ventilation;
• half;
• side;
• gable;
• decorative.

Among the advantages of tiles and tiled roofing can be noted:

• durability (more than 100 years);
• noiselessness;
• environmental friendliness;
• fire resistance;
• frost resistance;
• absence of static electricity on the surface;
• does not require periodic painting;
• does not respond to biological influences.

In addition to the large weight, the fragility of ceramics belongs to the negative characteristics, therefore, when transporting and laying tiles, it should be treated carefully and carefully.

Calculation of materials for a tiled roof

Even at the stage of design work, the materials necessary for the work are calculated. For these purposes, professionals use special computer programs that allow you to determine as accurately as possible how much natural tiles are needed, what additional elements will need to be installed, how many fasteners you need to purchase.

If desired, approximate calculations of the basic materials required for a tiled roof can be made independently.

Roof tiles

The sizes of a piece tile have indicators of the total and usable area. To determine its quantity, you need to know:

• the length and width of each slope, taking into account the slope of the roof and the size of the overhangs;
• the useful width of the material specified by the manufacturer;
• the amount of overlap when laying tile rows, depending on the slope of the roof and affecting the useful length of the tiles.

Installation of ceramic tiles with a slope of up to 25 degrees is carried out with an overlap of 100mm, from 25 to 35 degrees - 75mm, and more than 45 degrees - 45mm. These indicators are subtracted from the total length of the piece tile, resulting in a useful length, which is multiplied by the useful width and the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bone element is found out.

Next, calculate the number of tiles in one square meter. For this, the unit is divided by the usable area, expressed in square meters. To find out the total amount of material, the resulting figure is multiplied by square meters of roofing, and the results are rounded up.

It should be noted that calculations must be made for each slope separately. When laying tiles, some parts have to be cut off, which ultimately increases the amount of material required for installation.

There is a more accurate, but time-consuming method of calculation. The length of the slope determines the number of tiles that will be laid on the roof, based on the useful length of the element. This indicator determines the number of rows of tiles. Next, the number of tiles in one row is calculated.

The number of rows is multiplied by the number of tiles in the row, and the result is rounded up. In this case, it is recommended to add one row of tiles for trimming and a possible battle for each slope. With complex roofs, the area is divided into simple geometric shapes.

Additional elements for gables and ridges are calculated based on the length of the structures, while not forgetting to round the result up.

Waterproofing

On roofs with a slope of up to 22 degrees, a waterproofing layer is arranged. To do this, it is recommended to use a roll membrane, laying it along the ridge and overhangs from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm. It is also required to leave overlaps of 15 cm on the gables and overhangs, not forgetting the overlaps of 15-20 cm at the locations of the protruding corners. Leaks are also left in areas adjacent to walls, chimneys, ventilation shafts, dormer windows, etc.

The membrane panels do not let moisture in, but contribute to its removal to the outside. In places of overlap, adhesive tape is glued onto the film or it is fixed with a stapler to the crate. Along the perimeter and at the junctions, it is fixed with roofing nails or wooden slats. Overlaps may be trimmed only after the installation of the tiles is completed.

The calculation of the amount of waterproofing material is allowed to be carried out according to a simplified formula. To do this, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof, taking into account the slope, is multiplied by a factor of 1.4.

Rafters and lathing

Tiled roofing can only be laid on a sufficiently powerful truss structure. This requirement comes from the large weight of the tile itself, to which the snow load is added in the calculations, depending on the climatic zone.

As a rule, more massive bars are not used to strengthen the rafter legs, their optimal size is 75 * 150mm. The strength of the structure is increased by reducing the pitch of the rafters, which is chosen in the range from 60 to 90 cm.

The crate for ceramic tiles is made of square bars with a side size of 50mm or rectangular - 40 * 60mm. Lumber is laid along the cornices, the width of which is 15-20 mm greater than that of ordinary elements.

The number of horizontally laid battens should correspond to the number of rows of tiles plus an additional cornice row.

The marking of the location of the bars is carried out using a coated cord and templates that match the useful height of the tile. If it is necessary to join horizontal rails, their connections are placed on rafter legs.

Fasteners

• in places subject to increased wind load;
• the whole row along the eaves;
• on the gables and along the ridge;
• on roofs with a slope of more than 50 degrees (through one element).

Based on these requirements, fasteners are calculated.

Installation of ceramic tiles

To ensure the normal operation of a tiled roof, care should be taken in advance to ensure its ventilation. The presence of a waterproofing layer implies the arrangement of two air gaps, one of which should be located between the heat and waterproofing, and the second between the waterproofing membrane and the roofing.

This design contributes to good under-roof ventilation and does not allow moisture to accumulate in the wooden elements of the roof and in the insulation.

In the first case, the gap is provided by mounting the crate or installing an additional beam along the ridge. But there is no need for an air gap if a membrane film is laid as a waterproofing. In the second case, the gap appears due to the counter-lattice.

The air flow occurs through the ventilation holes located at the bottom of the slopes. The outflow of air masses is carried out through aerators and special openings located in the ridge structure. With a large roof area, it is recommended to organize ventilation windows on the gables, which contribute to the rapid ventilation of the under-roof space.

Before laying tiles, they are evenly laid out over the entire surface of the roof in piles of 5-6 pieces. This must be done on all slopes at once, so that the truss structure cannot warp under the weight of heavy tile tiles.

First, lay out the top row of tiles along the ridge and the bottom row along the overhang, without attaching the tiles to the crate. With a successful layout, the cornice row is fixed and the installation of the tiles is continued from the bottom up in the direction from right to left. The material is fixed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Next, the ridge and gable parts are laid.

An edged board is mounted on the ridge with an edge so that it does not touch the ridge elements, except for the attachment points. At the intersection of the pediment and the ridge, the tiles are adjusted in place by cutting ceramic parts. It is recommended to cut it on the ground with the help of a grinder.