Most Russian houses were built back in Soviet times and are now in need of major repairs. It is necessary to start updating the old structural elements in a private house by repairing the floor, since it is through it that most of the heat escapes in winter. The floor in a private house is best to start from scratch. Therefore, first of all, you should dismantle the old structure and buy new materials that will make the floor with good thermal insulation.

Old elements in the house should be updated from the repair of the floor, because in the cold season it is from it that the heat leaves.

How to make the floor on your own in a private house reliable and warm? There are many options. The choice of technology, first of all, depends on how much money people are willing to invest in repairs. Depending on the available budget for repairs, you can determine the materials and method of reconstructing the floor in a private house.

It is preferable to completely redo the floor in a private house, but this will require more money. If a minimum budget is allocated for repairs, you can limit yourself to updating the old structure.

Floor repair: sequence of actions

You can make a floor from scratch in a private house with your own hands. First you need to remove the old structure, which is usually made in the form of a log system and a wooden covering in an old private house. If you plan to create a floor covering of ceramic tiles, you need to make a screed. Tiles cannot be laid on a wooden base. For other types of flooring, such as linoleum or laminate, you can restore the lag system and make the thermal insulation of the structure.

A new floor in a private house with a screed is created in the following sequence:

1. The old structure is dismantled, the base surface is leveled.
2. A pillow is constructed from gravel or brick chips and sand.
3. A layer of film or roofing felt is laid so that moisture from the soil does not penetrate.
4. The level of the future screed is determined, marks are placed on the walls.
5. Insulation is laid (expanded clay, polystyrene, mineral wool).
6. Reinforcing mesh is laid.
7. The base with the help of rails is divided into sections of 2 m. The height of the rail should correspond to the height of the future screed (at least 7 cm).
8. The cement mortar is mixed and poured into each section.
9. The solution is leveled using the rule.
10. The finished draft floor is covered with a film and left to dry for 2 weeks. Periodically, concrete should be moistened.
11. After the concrete has dried, a leveling screed is made.
12. The floor covering is laid.

The concrete base can be used for any type of flooring.

A multi-layer pillow made of crushed stone and sand serves as a shock absorber in case of subsidence and heaving of the soil.

Scheme of pouring a warm floor with concrete.

In addition, it is the receptacle for all communications that are in a private house. Pipes and wires are insulated in special boxes and hidden under a layer of sand and gravel. The bulk pillow is created as follows:

1. A layer of gravel (5 cm) is poured, then it is leveled, moistened and compacted.
2. A layer of sand (10 cm) is poured, moistened and rammed.
3. A layer of gravel (10 cm) is poured and rammed again.

Concrete flooring is more reliable and durable than wooden flooring on logs. It can serve for decades, retaining its qualities. Concrete does not contain harmful components, retains its strength, remains dry, and does not deform from temperature fluctuations.

The wooden structure is exposed to external factors. Logs can be destroyed by pests. With temperature fluctuations, the boards are deformed, cracks appear in the flooring, the boards begin to creak. Mold can form on wood when exposed to high humidity. But creating a wooden structure is a more economical way to make a floor in a private house.

Properly chosen and arranged floor should not only be beautiful, safe and durable - it also creates a healthy living environment. In this topic of the week, together with specialists and users of our portal, we figure out which floor is better in: what materials and design should be chosen, how to properly mount, insulate and how to finish. And also we will help to solve problems with ready-made bases.

Articles:

Let's consider the main types of floors in a private house and the types of floors that are in demand among FORUMHOUSE users - by logs, by slab, their characteristics, design, advantages and disadvantages.

Universal waterproofing, finishing leveling composition, electric floor heating systems and pipes for water, decorative coatings and wood products - we present the most necessary and interesting novelties.

Due to its operational characteristics, this category is successfully gaining popularity, gradually pushing aside more "venerable" categories both in the segment of rough bases and finishing decorative coatings. Such an interesting and versatile material did not go unnoticed among the users of the FORUMHOUSE portal. Let's talk about their experience.

Infrared is one of the promising types of electric floor heating. The participants of our portal were also convinced of its merits.

In order to fearlessly lay a warm floor on wooden floors in the house, without fear that the base will “play”, the Finns came up with the original technology. And FORUMHOUSE users adapted it to their needs and capabilities. They are willing to share their experience.

FORUMHOUSE experts tell you how to arrange floorboards based on a strip foundation.

How to cover the floor in a house, apartment or country house, what materials are better to use for different rooms - our experts answer these questions.

Video:

Floor waterproofing. Master Class. Consider the option of waterproofing using self-adhesive bitumen-polymer roll material. The technology is good in that the entire waterproofing process is carried out in one cycle and without much effort.

Laying solid oak boards. Master Class . How to properly prepare the base so that the expensive board does not "lead", does not bend and the floor in the house is perfectly flat ... How to properly lay a massive board - expert advice.

Combined heating system: underfloor heating and radiators. Using the example of a house made of timber, consider a combined heating system consisting of lightweight warm water floors and radiators. The specialist shows many subtleties of this system.

How to lay tiles in the kitchen beautifully and outside the box. As the practice of designer Irina Loye shows, laying tiles is a creative activity. For this kitchen, tiles of various sizes and types were purchased to make the floor in the house bright and unusual. Watch and be inspired!

Parquet maintenance. Different types of parquet finishes have their own individual characteristics, including in terms of care and renewal. An expert in the field will help you learn which top coat - varnish, oil-wax or wax - to choose, as well as what to do to properly care for the oil-wax finish.

Floor grinding. We grind so that it shines - a few tips from an experienced builder Yuri Martynovich.

Forum topic:

What kind of insulation should be, why there are problems with a well-insulated floor and how to solve them - portal participants from Moscow and other cities share their advice and talk about their experience.

For many developers, it is important not only to qualitatively, but also to quickly arrange the floor in the house. One of the possible options for such work is discussed here.

When is the best time to buy a board and how can it be stored, how to make wooden floors in the house and how to solve various problems and prevent difficult cases that arise during their operation - a variety of issues are discussed in this topic.

When changing the floor covering, a screed is often found under it, requiring repair - uneven, cracked, collapsing. How to repair it without removing it and how to raise the floor in a private house, you will learn from this topic.

Standards, special technologies and instructions for the installation of various types of bases, the necessary programs for calculating materials, experience in solving various problems - this topic will help you answer all kinds of questions that arise during the installation, decoration and operation of the premises.

Today, sustainable construction is in the spotlight, and wood, as a building material, occupies the first place in it. This is facilitated by the fact that wood is an environmentally friendly and affordable material that has been processed by man for many thousands of years. Increasingly, you can see country houses and cottages made of wood, which combine nature and technology. As in any other house construction, one of the important stages is the creation of the floor. The very arrangement of the floor in a wooden house is a very important and crucial moment, requiring increased attention to the work performed. Therefore, in order for the floors in a wooden house to be strong and durable, it is necessary to follow the technology of their laying and adhere to certain recommendations and rules.

Floor construction and wood selection

The floor in a wooden house on the ground floor is laid on the ground and consists of the following elements: logs, subfloor, hydro and thermal insulation, finished floor and floor covering. The entire structure is installed on beams or support posts made of brick or concrete. Between the floor and the ground there is an underground, which is carefully ventilated to keep the wood in optimal condition and create a microclimate on the first floor.

Scheme of the device of a wooden floor

Important! The arrangement of wooden floors on the ground is a fairly cheap option, but for their arrangement it is necessary to take into account the level of groundwater. If it is high enough and the soils are wet, then you should take care of waterproofing the entire floor structure and high-quality ventilation of the underground.

Since the floor is subjected to frequent mechanical stress, the wood for its creation must be selected carefully and adhere to the following rules:

• the moisture content of the tree should be 12%, this will directly determine how long the tree will keep its shape;
• the tree should be free of chips and cracks, so that later you do not have to replace or repair part of the floor structure;
• boards should be treated with flame retardants and antiseptics, this will help increase fire resistance and avoid damage by pathogenic flora;
• to create a durable and strong structure, you should choose hard coniferous wood - spruce, pine, larch, cedar, fir. Although the most durable will be deciduous oak or ash.

underground space

Underfloor ventilation installation

The microclimate in the house will depend on how dry and well-ventilated the underground is, and how long the wooden floor will last. Therefore, to ensure ventilation around the perimeter of the basement, holes are equipped, which, regardless of the time of year and the direction of the winds, will provide natural ventilation. In case of snowy winters, ventilation pipes with a visor are taken out of the openings of the underground, and several window fans can be installed to increase air circulation. It is also necessary to take care of protection against various rodents. To do this, gratings with cells up to 8 mm should be installed on all openings.

wooden floor base

In order for the floor to be strong and durable, it is necessary to prepare a high-quality base. Wooden floors in a private house are laid on support beams laid in the foundation. If support beams are not provided for in the project of a wooden house, then it will be necessary to equip support posts made of brick or concrete. The only difference is in the supports on which the logs are laid; further work on laying the wooden floor is identical.

If the beams are laid together with the foundation, then the supporting pillars have to be done separately.

We determine the places for arranging support columns. To do this, we make marks on the embedded beams and pull the cord along the entire length of the underground. We do the same in the perpendicular direction. At the intersection of the cords will be the corners of the posts. It is also necessary to calculate the number of columns so that the step between them is 70-100 cm. The length of the step between the supporting pillars directly depends on the thickness of the beams or logs that will be laid on the pillars. The thicker the beam or lag, the smaller the step can be taken between the pillars. For beams with a section of 150x150 mm, the pitch of the supporting pillars should be no more than 80 cm. The dimensions of the recesses for the pillars should correspond to the sides of the pillar. When laying support posts, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the higher the posts are from the ground, the more stable they should be. Accordingly, the larger should be their cross section.

Arrangement of support posts made of concrete under the logs

In the places of installation of the pillars, we select the soil to a depth of 40-60 cm and lay the pillars themselves. They can be made of brick or concrete. Brick columns with a height of up to 250 mm are laid in "one and a half" or "two" bricks, higher columns are laid in "two" bricks.

Important! For greater reliability of the construction of columns of bricks, it is desirable to pour a foundation under them, which will protrude at least 5 cm above the ground level. Fix the bricks with cement mortar and waterproof.

Concrete columns are more durable due to the reinforcing mesh inside. The dimensions of the sides of such columns range from 400 mm to 500 mm based on the height of the column itself.

Important! In order for the floor to be even, it is necessary to observe the horizon even at the stage of laying the supporting posts and beams. To do this, you should constantly check their level so that they are all in the same plane.

Then, over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future underground, we select a fertile layer of soil, level and fill up a layer of gravel, and then sand. Pour each layer with water and carefully tamp. To do this, you can use a special vibrating plate or an ordinary log with a nailed board.

Wooden floor installation

Once the base in the form of supporting posts or beams is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the wooden floor itself. We lay several layers of waterproofing on top of the posts; roofing material is perfect for this. We install logs or beams on top of the waterproofing layer, which we firmly fix in place. Logs can be laid directly on the support posts, but to increase the strength of the floor, beams should first be laid and logs already on top of them. If the length of the beam or log is less than the length of the room, then we lay the places of their joints on the support posts, connect them together into a lock and fix them with self-tapping screws. To fix the beams and logs on the supporting pillars, we use metal corners, which we firmly fasten to the posts with dowels, and to the tree with self-tapping screws.

Important! We process logs and beams with antiseptics and flame retardants. If somewhere they missed it, or it was not possible to withstand the horizon for the columns, then it's okay. This can be corrected by placing wedges or wooden spacers under the beam or lag in the place of its subsidence. The wedges and gaskets themselves are firmly fixed.

Single wooden floor

The device of a wooden floor in a private house can be single or double, but the design of the floor itself will be unchanged. Single wooden floors are usually made for summer wooden houses. Houses with such floors are unsuitable for year-round use. To keep the floors warm throughout the year, double floors with insulation are created.

To equip a single wooden floor, it is necessary to lay logs on the support posts and fix them. For logs, it is enough to use wooden bars 50x50 mm or 60x60 mm. A tongue-and-groove board 40-50 mm thick is laid on top of the log and fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws or nails. As a floor covering, you can use linoleum or just paint the boards. Sometimes, in order to give the entire structure of the floor strength, beams are first laid on the supporting pillars and logs are already on them. For support beams, in this case, a wooden beam with a thickness of 100x100 mm or 120x120 mm is used.

Draft floor double floor

Laying the floor in a wooden house, which will be inhabited throughout the year, involves the creation of a double floor with insulation. Such a floor requires a lot of effort and the amount of materials, but its level of reliability and strength will be an order of magnitude higher compared to a single-layer one. To make such a floor, you will need to perform the following steps:

Important! Boards should be laid at a distance of 15-20 mm from the wall to ensure ventilation and avoid swelling of the floor during seasonal wood swelling.

You can waterproof a wooden floor with a 200 micron polyethylene film.

• for waterproofing the finished floor and floor covering, we lay a 200 micron thick polyethylene film on top of the subfloor and additional thermal insulation made of foamed polyethylene. We overlap the film, and glue its edges with tape between each other. We make an overlap of 20 cm on the walls and glue it with tape;
• now that everything is ready, you can start laying the final floor and flooring.

To create a finished floor, you can use sheets of plywood or a massive board. Plywood sheets are laid on top of the heat-insulating layer and fixed with self-tapping screws along the perimeter and diagonally. Then you can lay the wooden flooring.

Grooved solid board

Groove board made of solid wood is not only beautiful, but also easy to install and use.

In the case of a massive board, everything is somewhat more complicated, although a significant plus is that such a floor can be opened with varnish or paint without additional flooring. There are two types of solid board: tongue-and-groove and regular. The difference lies in the installation method. More simple and practical in laying is a tongue-and-groove board. To install it, do the following:

• before laying the board, it should be aged in the room for three days and "get used" to the microclimate of the room;
• we measure 10-15 mm from the walls to create a ventilation gap and in case of seasonal swelling of the boards;
• Finishing floor boards are laid across the subfloor boards. We lay the first row of boards strictly along the line with a spike to the wall and fix them with self-tapping screws. We screw the self-tapping screws in such a way that they overlap with the plinth near the wall. On the other hand, we screw the screws into the groove at an angle of 45 °;
• in the gap between the wall and the board we lay a wooden gasket;

Important! If the length of the floorboards is smaller in size than the room, we lay them "in a row". This will provide additional strength to the floor. The length of the screws should be several times the thickness of the board. Under the self-tapping screw, it is necessary to pre-drill a hole, this is necessary so that the board does not split and crack.

• the second and further rows of boards are laid with a spike in the groove of the previous row. We seal with a rubber hammer and fix with screws on the other side into the groove;

Important! In order for the wooden floor to last for a long time, the boards must be laid with annual rings opposite to each other.

Parquet massive board

We lay parquet boards "out of the blue"

Another option for the finishing floor is solid parquet flooring. In fact, this is the same grooved massive board, only shorter. Her styling has its own characteristics:

• a massive parquet board can be fixed with self-tapping screws only from the side of the spike;
• it is performed only "on the run";
• if a plywood base is used, then it makes sense to glue the parquet board first, and then additionally fix it with self-tapping screws;
• a massive parquet board can be laid diagonally, thereby visually enlarging the room.

You can open the wooden floor with varnish or paint at the end of all installation work.

Regardless of which element of the wooden floor structure we lay, it must be treated with antiseptics and flame retardants, this will extend the life of the entire structure as a whole. The laying of the wooden floor will be fully completed with the application of the final floor covering. It can be varnish or paint, the main thing is that the floor in a wooden house looks natural and fits into the overall concept. Laying a wooden floor is a rather responsible and complex matter, requiring increased attention and care in the performance of work. You can do all the work yourself, but still, you should find a partner.

The foundation is poured, the walls are raised, the roof is mounted and windows with doors are installed. You can also start laying the floors in a wooden house with your own hands. The stage of work is not difficult, but requires a careful approach to details.

Proper laying of the floor cake is the key to its long service life. A small mistake with waterproofing is enough and you will have to re-lay the entire coating in a few years. Lack of ventilation of the subfloor will lead to the same result. And without insulation, you will not only have to walk around the house in warm slippers, but also fork out for additional heating costs.

Draft floor - what is it?

It is important to protect a wooden house from moisture - rotting makes building elements unusable very quickly. Therefore, you should not cut logs into the first crown of the log house, even if they are made of larch and treated with an antiseptic - in any case, they will have to be changed sometime. It is optimal to lay the logs on the foundation and fix them after the walls have been raised.

It is also important to ensure good ventilation of the subfloor by organizing air ducts of sufficient size in the basement or foundation. According to the regulations, in a subfield without forced ventilation, the area of ​​​​the vents should correspond to 1:400 of the subfloor area. Otherwise, regardless of the waterproofing measures, the picture under the house will be unpleasant.

When the flooring is ready, you can start warming. But before laying the insulation, it is worth resolving the issue of protecting it from moisture - after all, wet mineral wool not only does not retain heat, but also contributes to the formation of fungus and mold on adjacent wood.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier - what's the difference?

Waterproofing protects materials from direct ingress of water, and vapor barrier prevents the penetration of wet fumes. Thus, all waterproofing films are laid on the outside, and vapor barriers on the inside. Everything is clear with the walls. But how and what to put on the floor?

Under the hygroscopic insulation on the rough flooring of the first floor, it is better to lay any vapor-tight films, even simple polyethylene ones. They will protect expanded clay or basalt slabs from fumes rising directly from wet ground. At the same time, expensive membranes that remove moisture to the outside will not be useful here - all evaporation still rises. But, given the ventilated subfloor, they are increasingly returning to the time-tested glassine as a “breathable” material.

But on top of the insulation, it is imperative to lay vapor-permeable films that remove possible moisture. To do this, leave a special ventilation gap (at least 5 cm). If the lag boards are not high enough, a counter-rail is nailed along them, over the membrane, on which the finishing floor is laid.

Underfloor heating - why is it necessary?

Even schoolchildren know the principle of convection - warm air rises. According to this logic, an uninsulated floor cannot release heat from the house in any way. In fact, heat loss in a cold field reaches 20%!

All because of the same convection - the air from the underground rises into the house, cooling it, and the energy resource is also spent on heating the air in an unheated basement or underground.

Each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages:

• perlite, vermiculite, shungizite - analogues of expanded clay, do not absorb moisture, but are more expensive;





• Styrofoam and its derivatives are not exposed to moisture, so they do not need waterproofing, are lightweight and inexpensive, but create a "greenhouse effect" in the house and are not recommended for wooden houses.

Bulk heaters are laid on a solid flooring, slabs and mats can be placed on a sparse subfloor, one has only to properly lay the waterproofing and protect the insulation from rodents.

Finishing floor and its types

Depending on the desired interior design, almost any floor can be laid in a wooden house:

Wooden floors are great for living rooms. The main thing is to put a good waterproofing to protect the insulation. But it is better to lay tiles in the kitchen and in the bathroom - places with high humidity.

In addition, there are variations with the installation of warm wooden floors and even a concrete screed along the logs. So the choice depends only on building skills and design preferences.

Do-it-yourself flooring technology in a wooden house

Underfloor heating is comfortable, economical and extremely functional. Especially when you have to dry winter overalls, jackets and mittens of three children after winter games on the street. And so the entire floor area turns into a capacious battery - it's a sin not to use this!

Concrete screed in a wooden house - reliability and functionality

In a wooden house, a warm floor in a concrete screed is difficult to make, but quite possible:

1. The most important thing when pouring a concrete screed is to correctly calculate the load on the logs in advance. After all, the weight of the finished slab, taking into account the finishing floor, will be about 150 kg / sq.m, and this is without taking into account furniture and residents. The step of the beams when pouring concrete is halved, while the logs themselves are lowered to the height of the screed (if the pouring is done only in the kitchen and bathroom, and not in the whole house).



2. A great way to reduce the weight of the floor is not to lay a subfloor. It is enough to fix the vapor barrier film on the bottom with slats so that the insulation plates do not sag.



3. A dense waterproofing is laid over the log with a mandatory ventilation gap of 5 cm. It is very important to glue all the places of its attachment to the beams with butyl rubber tape - so that there are no holes left through which the screed will wet the insulation.



4. Slate or cement particle board is placed on the waterproofing - they have the best adhesion to concrete. A formwork of the same height as the future screed is installed on top of the level. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the substrates from the same slate. The height of the substrate is about 1 cm.
5. A "snail" of underfloor heating pipes is laid out. It can be attached to the grid with conventional cable ties. It is important not to forget to lay a damper tape between the formwork and reinforcement - to compensate for the expansion of the future floor.



6. To protect yourself, make a trial run of underfloor heating systems with high pressure. If no leaks are found, you can start pouring.



7. After pouring, it is better to vibrate the screed and only then level it with a long rule. It takes 1-2 weeks to water the concrete for it to gain strength. After a month, you can start laying any floor covering.

Wooden floors - simple and beautiful

If the floor joists aren't strong enough to support the weight of the concrete slab, don't fret! After all, you can make a dry warm floor with water heating. To do this, you need boards with grooves for pipes, and foil is used as a heat-reflecting layer. The laminate is on top. The whole process is presented in detail in the video:

Schemes for flooring on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bath

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• with support on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on logs;
• based on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options would be better and easier?

In homes without a basement, ground flooring is a popular solution for all ground floor spaces. Floors on the ground - cheap, simple and easy to perform, it is also beneficial to arrange in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. A simple design, the use of modern materials, the placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), make such floors comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of the floor on the ground may be less than that of the floor above the ventilated underground.

It is better to refuse the floor on the ground if it is necessary to backfill with soil at too high a height, more than 0.6-1 m. The cost of backfilling and compacting the soil in this case may be too high.

The floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on a pile or columnar foundation with a grillage, which is located above the ground.

Three basic schemes for laying floors on the ground

In the first variant a concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab acts as a floor slab and must be calculated for the standard load of floors, have appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as a temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. Such a floor is often referred to as a "suspended ground floor".

A suspended floor on the ground has to be done if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is the floor on the foundation - a slab, when a reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building, serves as a support for the walls and the base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or the laying of wooden logs in the gaps between the bearing walls supported by bulk soil.

Here, the floor slab or logs are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the last option to correctly call the floor on the ground, which will be our story.

Floors on the ground should provide:

• thermal insulation of premises from the conditions of energy saving;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against penetration into the premises of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensate inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling a soil cushion for a floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-porous soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, then the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for the pillow device: sand, fine gravel, sand and gravel, and with a low level of groundwater - sandy loam and loam. It is advantageous to use the soil left in the area from, the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The soil of the pillow is carefully compacted in layers (not thicker than 15 cm.) by tamping with spilling the soil with water. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if a mechanical rammer is used.

Large crushed stone, broken bricks, pieces of concrete should not be laid in the pillow. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the pillow from bulk soil is recommended to be made within 300-600 mm. It is still not possible to compact bulk soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of loose soil can lead to too much and uneven subsidence of the floor.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted rubble or expanded clay in the pillow. This underlying capping layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles with a size of less than 4 mm in this layer should be no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protection from gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay with a thickness of 18 cm. in terms of heat-saving capacity corresponds to 50 mm. foam. To protect against punching of insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor structures are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured over the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Before filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water and sewer pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes of the soil ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for mounting pipes in them in the future.

Ground floor construction

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• ground floor with concrete screed;
• ground floor with dry screed;
• ground floor on wooden beams.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive in the device, but more reliable and durable than other designs.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Laid on a soil cushion ground filter materialmoisture contained in freshly placed concrete (e.g. polyethylene film at least 0.15 mm.). The film is put on the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips with a thickness of 20 - 30 mm cut from insulation boards.
3. Then arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete of class B7.5-B10 on crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer designed for sticking waterproofing. The radius of the junction of concrete to the walls 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective concrete layer of at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations, it can alsouse steel fiber length 50-80 mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. At the time of hardening, the concrete is covered with a film or poured with water. Read:
4. For hardened concrete floor preparation bonded waterproofing. Or two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen basis are laid on the mastic with each layer being placed on the wall. Rolls are unrolled and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture, and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The waterproofing layer of the floor must always be connected to a similar waterproofing layer of the wall. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of hydro-gas insulation laying insulation boards. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Styrofoam is also used, with a density of at least PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage). Styrofoam eventually collapses upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by heat engineering calculation.
6. On the insulation layer laying underlayment(for example, a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to the moisture contained in the freshly laid concrete floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a "warm floor" system (or without a system). When underfloor heating, it is necessary to provide expansion joints in the screed. Monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. performed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf / cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The grid is laid in the lower part of the layer. Read: . For a more thorough leveling of the surface of the concrete screed, especially if the final floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling mortar from factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 cm.
8. For screed installing a clean floor.

This is a classic floor on the ground. On its basis, various versions are possible - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floor on the ground is often done without a layer of concrete preparation. A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a basis for sticking rolled waterproofing on a paper or fabric basis impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation as a waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the soil cushion.

A profiled membrane is a high-density polyethylene (HDPE) sheet with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or in the form of a truncated cone) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. Available in density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with a width of 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed to the sandy base, without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into the sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying thermal insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes withstands without breaks the movement of workers and machines for transporting concrete mixtures and mortars (excluding tracked vehicles).

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand cushion with spikes down. The spikes of the membrane will lock into the pillow.

The seams between the overlapped rolls are carefully glued with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which makes it possible to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If slabs of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joint joints are used for the device of the thermal insulation layer, then such slabs can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Bedding of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

The polymer film of waterproofing in this embodiment is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If the top layer of the soil cushion is poured out of expanded clay, then the insulation layer under the screed can be abandoned.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with a bulk density of 250–300 kg / m 3 it is enough to make a heat-insulating layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with a bulk density of 400–500 kg / m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation capacity, you will have to lay a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers with a thickness of 15 cm and compacted with a manual or mechanical rammer. The easiest way to compact is multifraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay reduces thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to arrange a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Durable, warm and with low water absorption will be the base for the floor, made of coarse-pored claydite concrete without sand.

Ground floor with dry screed

In floors on the ground as the upper bearing layer, instead of a concrete screed, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum-fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises of the first floor of the house more simple and cheap option there will be a floor installation on the ground with a dry combined floor screed, Fig.5.

The floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in wet rooms - a bathroom, a boiler room.

The floor on the ground with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 - Flooring - parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed from prefabricated elements or gypsum-fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous-fibrous mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 - Expansion dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Concrete reinforced base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The device for adjoining the floor to the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Lacquered parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Adhesive and primer for parquet, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from prefabricated elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.
6. Water-dispersion adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced concrete screed class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of PSB 35 foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam, according to the calculation thickness.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. Outer wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay the insulation in a strip along the outer walls (pos. 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for the floor without underfloor heating (without warm floors).

The thickness of the floor insulation on the ground

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the outer walls, depends quite strongly on the outside temperature. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and plinth.

The soil temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes must be insulated. For this, it is recommended to arrange thermal protection at two boundaries (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate outside the basement and foundation of the house to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation in the floor structure along the perimeter of the outer walls. The width of the insulation tape along the outer walls is at least 0.8 m.(pos.11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that the total resistance to heat transfer in the floor - soil - basement section must be no less than the same parameter for the outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the basement plus floor insulation must be no less than the thickness of the outer wall insulation. For the climatic zone in the area of ​​Moscow, the total thickness of the foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the outer walls.

When choosing the dimensions of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that the insulation of the foundation helps to reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its sole.

These are the minimum requirements for floor insulation on the ground. It is clear that the larger the size of the heat-insulating layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Lay thermal insulation under the entire floor surface in order to save energy, it is absolutely necessary only in the case of underfloor heating in the premises or the construction of an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room is useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor surface. The heat absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the soles of the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W / (m 2 ° С). A calculator to calculate this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on logs on a concrete screed

Base plate made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. on a layer of crushed stone, compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden bars - logs with a minimum section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., it is recommended to lay on the waterproofing layer in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By sliding or pushing the linings, the height of the lag is adjusted. Span between adjacent support points lag no more than 900 mm. Between the lags and the walls should leave a gap of 20-30 mm.

The joists lie freely without attachment to the base. At the time of installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary bonds.

For the device of the subfloor, wood-based boards are usually used - OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the plates is not less than 24 mm. All joints of the plates must necessarily rely on the logs. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the plates between adjacent lags.

The subfloor can be made from a grooved floorboard. Such a floor made of high-quality boards can be used without a floor covering. Permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the lags. Mineral wool slabs must be covered from above with a vapor-permeable film, which prevents the penetration of microparticles of insulation into the room.

Rolled waterproofing from bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials applied in two layers on the concrete underlying layer by melting (for welded roll materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing pasting waterproofing, longitudinal and transverse overlapping of panels should be ensured at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground floor space on the ground along the logs, slots in the baseboards must be provided in the rooms. At least two opposite corners of the room leave holes with an area of ​​20-30 cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on the logs on the posts

There is another constructive scheme of the floor - this is wooden floor on the ground on logs, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5.:
1-4 - Elements of the finishing floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden log.
9 - Wood leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

The device of the floor on the logs along the columns allows you to reduce the height of the soil cushion or completely abandon its device.

Floors, soils and foundations

Floors on the ground are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If heaving, then the floor in winter and spring can "walk" under the influence of forces.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this, and the underground part

The design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Warming the soil under the house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in a house on a pile foundation can only be recommended for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is also necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multi-layer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the basement and the bearing part of the wall, bypassing the wall and floor insulation.