Lining and how to work with it installation. Do-it-yourself clapboard wall cladding: fashion for natural materials. Clapboard made of wood

Facing with wooden clapboard refers to those construction operations that can be performed by a master of almost any level. You do not need to have a complex tool and have special skills. Meanwhile, in this case there are several nuances that it is better to know when getting started.

Finishing is always less time-consuming than preparation, and psychologically much more pleasant than rough work, because the efforts made finally become visible. Even hiring people for repairs, you want to do something with your own hands. Facing surfaces with wooden clapboard refers to those construction operations that can be performed by a master with almost any level of professionalism. To do this, you do not need to have a complex electric tool and have special skills, as required, for example, by the work of a puttyer. Meanwhile, in this case there are several nuances that it is better to know when getting started.

Some general questions

Features and technology of finishing with lining of different types

Clapboard decoration of various surfaces inside the house is performed in order to give them an excellent decorative look. Currently, there are different types of materials that are combined into a single group. The technology of working with them is different and depends solely on the selected product. It should be noted that all activities can be carried out without building qualifications.

Instrument preparation

It is customary to distinguish the two most commonly used types of material: plastic and wood. Do-it-yourself lining installation in each case has some differences and individual characteristics. But the process will require the same set of tools:

Screwdriver.
Perforator with the necessary nozzles.
Level.
Hammer and mallet.
Electric jigsaw.

Separately, a wooden beam for the crate and fasteners (self-tapping screws, kleimers, carnations) are prepared. All work begins with a common event - the construction of the frame.

Do-it-yourself set of tools for mounting lining

Mounting rails on the wall

Installation of wooden lining and its plastic variety is carried out mainly on the frame. It is installed like this:

Wooden beam is well treated with antiseptic compounds. If the events take place in a room that is characterized by a constant average humidity, then it is possible to impregnate only with a primer.
The surface is prepared in advance. There is no need to do such work perfectly, but you should remove the old coating, check the walls for mold and fungus, and also cover up all defects with putty.
Markup in progress. The surface is drawn based on how the lining will be located. The main thing is that the lining is carried out perpendicular to the bearing bars.
Wooden slats are drilled out. The hole pitch is 50-60 cm. These holes are transferred to the wall. A puncher prepares places for dowels.
Racks are laid strictly according to the level. If there is a distortion, then pieces of plywood are placed.
Thus, a frame is obtained, which consists of rails arranged in a certain order. The voids between them can be used for laying insulation.

The construction of the frame under the lining

On a note! Many people think that it is better to install lining on a metal profile. Indeed, such an option can be applied, but only in extreme cases, when significant irregularities of the base are observed.

Fixing a plastic product

This option has proven itself for rooms with high humidity. Unlike a wooden look, laying a lining made of plastic does not imply its additional processing, impregnation. Therefore, working with it is much faster. The order is:

Starting strips made of plastic are laid on the frame. They can also be mounted on the wall itself, but in this case it needs more careful preparation.
These strips have holes into which the first fragment is inserted. It is immediately fixed with a clamp.
Further, the procedure is very simple: the fragments are grooved and fixed on the frame.

Much more difficult is the lining of the walls with clapboard, which is made of natural wood.

Various ways of fastening wooden lining

Finishing with wooden clapboard is performed a little differently than its plastic variety. Initially, it is advisable to decide on the method of attachment. There are three main options:

Use of nails. Galvanized nails are used for work, their small caps are the least noticeable on the surface. Installation of lamellas occurs directly. In order to hide the carnation flush, and also not to spoil the material, a doboynik is additionally purchased. This option is suitable for those cases when the product will be processed with colorful compositions.

Installation of wooden lining with nails

The use of clamps. This is the most modern method, which makes the process much easier. Wall clapboard finishing is much faster, the main thing is to adapt to install this fixture, which looks like a bracket. It turns out a completely hidden installation, which makes it possible to disassemble the decorative coating without damaging the delicate wood.

Mounting the lining on the kleimers

Work as an industrial stapler. It should be noted right away that a simple version of such a tool will not be able to provide proper fastening. Installation consists in the fact that the inner part of the groove is punched with brackets.

Installation of lamellas using an industrial stapler

Options for laying wood material

There are two main options for laying material, which differ in their direction. Namely - vertical and horizontal.

Vertical option

The first fragment is fixed in the corner. For this, carnations are used, which will hide under a decorative corner. If there is no such additional element, then the caps are simply bitten off with side cutters, and the carnations are clogged very carefully.
Be sure to check the clarity of the vertical laying. After all, any inaccuracy will lead to the fact that subsequent lamellas will have even greater curvature.
The fixed element is fixed with clamps. Next, the following lamellas are installed, which are first grooved and then attached.
Every five fragments are checked using a level and a plumb line.
The final finishing element is filed to the desired size.

Vertical way of mounting lining on the wall

Horizontal way

The interior decoration of the house with clapboard can also be done horizontally, this happens as follows:

The slats are installed from the ceiling. The groove should look down. If the lining has the shape of a rounded log, then its installation begins with a groove top, this will hide the docking points.
The mounting technology is similar to the previous version. But it must be borne in mind that for a stronger fixation - the boards are lined with dies.
Going down from top to bottom, it is quite convenient to fix the elements on the studs. The main thing is to finish them off so as not to damage the front side.

Installation of lamellas in a horizontal way starts from the ceiling

On a note! The diagonal scheme looks very original. It is made on a frame, the racks of which are located in a more frequent step.

Fastening the lining to the ceiling

Do-it-yourself clapboard ceiling decoration is done most carefully. The fact is that fixing the material is rather inconvenient, so the risk of making a mistake and damaging the decorative surface increases. To do everything most correctly, follow the following instructions:

The supporting structure is assembled so that there is no doubt about its reliability. The safety of the people living in the premises depends on this.
The bars are selected with a cross section of 2 * 2.5 cm. They should be equal in length to the size of the ceiling. If the slats are short, then they are sewn together with the help of corners.
Take into account that the fastening step of the dowels should be 30-40 cm.
The evenness of the fastening of the crate is checked by the laces stretched along the walls.

Directly sheathing with lamellas looks like this:

The first element is installed at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the wall. This is necessary to level the process of possible shrinkage of the building and the "play" of wooden material.
The fragment is baited on galvanized carnations. This must be done carefully, because the board can crack.
It is better to choose clamps as fasteners, they are more reliable. They are fixed to the guides with self-tapping screws. Nails are not used due to the fact that they can slightly weaken the structure, which will lead to its subsidence.
Further, each element is placed by attaching it to the groove and fixing it to the clamp.
Difficulties may arise with the last fragment, it should be cut to the required size, taking into account the indentation from the wall.

Clapboard ceiling lining

It is much more efficient to perform wall cladding with clapboard when the material is already varnished, this will allow you to process all inaccessible areas, as well as perform the work with the highest quality, avoiding possible streaks and streaks.
Finishing with clapboard inside the house in places of high humidity suggests that the lamellas will not go into the groove all the way. This will avoid deformation.
Do not hit the groove with a hammer, this will damage the material.

Clapboard decoration of walls and ceiling inside the house: do-it-yourself installation of wooden lamellas

Even a person without proper experience can perform clapboard decoration. But you need to take into account the rules for placing lamellas on the frame and suitable fastening methods.

Proper installation of lining on the ceiling and walls

Increasingly, plastic building materials are being replaced by wooden ones: they are more affordable, environmentally friendly and look more interesting in the interior. Proper installation of lining on the ceiling or walls can be easily done with your own hands, if there is a step-by-step instruction and a work plan.

Features of installation work

You can install the lining both on the walls and on the frame, these methods are selected based on the material of the walls. The installation of wooden lining directly on the walls is most expedient to be carried out in a wooden bath, there is no need to additionally weight the structures with a metal profile or load-bearing wooden beams. But, if the installation is planned in residential premises or utility rooms for general purposes (balcony, closet, etc.), then it is better to use frame equipment.

Photo - work order

Rules for installing lining:

Installation of the coating on the ceiling is carried out only by the frame method. In this case, the bearing profile guides are attached to the beams, but if the beams were not installed or they were hidden behind other building material, they will have to be re-mounted;
On the balcony, in the steam room or in the corner rooms of the house, the lining must be insulated. This is necessary due to the fact that MDF panels or natural wood boards have a porous structure that has good conductive properties. Due to the circulation of oxygen, cold air from outside can easily enter the living space;

Photo - construction cake

The frame step for eurolining panels, classic boards and PVC varies. For euro, MDF and PVC - 40 centimeters, for ordinary - 50;
Waterproofing is also installed in the bathroom and steam room along with insulation. The same rule applies to the exterior decoration of the facade with clapboard.

Installation guide

It is easiest to install a plastic or wooden seamless lining on your own: its installation involves pushing the panels on top of each other and fastening them in certain places with nails. Sometimes, instead of nails, staplers, clamps and self-tapping screws are used.

Consider how the do-it-yourself battens are installed on the ceiling:

The technology for installing lining on the ceiling and walls is similar, with the exception of the working surface. To start installation work, you need to determine the lowest point of the ceiling. To do this, the same distance is broken off from each corner with a ruler, and then the lowest angle is determined. From it, with the help of a level, the ceiling is drawn;
The frame device can be made of both metal and wooden beams. It is preferable to use a metal profile on large areas, since it has a higher rigidity;

Photo - installation diagram

A wire mesh is laid off from the main line. The step of the beams is determined based on the selected material. After that, brackets or U-shaped suspensions are mounted. They are installed with the calculation of 5 per meter. It should be noted that an important feature of working with lining is that the material must be perpendicular to the frame. If the boards are installed horizontally, then the supporting beams are mounted vertically and vice versa. This scheme is valid for any surfaces that are finished with wooden boards;

Photo - installation example

Beams or profile guides are mounted on them. The perimeter is installed first, it is made either from load-bearing UD or wooden beams with a section of 25 mm. It is advisable to try to lay the base as close as possible to the wall, otherwise, after finishing the finish, a gap may appear between the wall and the ceiling, which will need to be additionally blocked;
When the frame is ready, wiring is done (if necessary), vapor barrier and insulation. A film is installed under the frame, which will protect the walls and the supporting system from the effects of condensate. Further, sheets of foam, mineral wool or other insulation are mounted;

Photo - finished frame

A waterproofing film is installed directly on the thermal insulation. It is stretched to protect the frame and heat insulator from moisture. In particular, you need to take care of the insulation of the corners - it is here that gaps appear through which water enters the frame and contributes to the appearance of dampness;

Photo - thermal insulation

After that, a lining is installed on the surface of the crate. Installation work is carried out close to the wall, the first panel moves as close as possible to the corner. The entire coating will be leveled along it, so special attention is paid to its installation. In order to move the board as close as possible to the wall, a small piece of wood and a hammer are used. The wood is joined to the board and it needs to be hit several times with a hammer to create a hard corner;

Photo - padding

For the installation of subsequent panels, special brackets are used. Kleimer with a tongue moves onto the first board, while its second half is superimposed on the frame. Next, the bracket is attached to the surface of the bearing beam with self-tapping screws or nails. For one panel of standard length (2.5 meters), 2 clamps are used, for the House block (imitation of timber), whose length often does not exceed 0.5 m - one bracket;

Photo - kleimer

When construction work is completed, the lining is covered with drying oil, protective equipment and varnish or paint.

Painting can also be carried out before the start of installation work, but then the finish may suffer when installed on the frame. After that, it remains only to install skirting boards at the joints of the ceiling and walls.

Photo - finished room

The rules for mounting the frame and vinyl or wooden lining on the ceiling and walls are very similar. Only the definition of the perimeter differs. To mount eurolining, you need to draw lines of the same length from the ceiling and mark the surface from them.

Tips for choosing lining and installation:

In a sauna, bath, attic or other rooms with a high temperature, you need to use a lining made of linden, larch or aspen. These rocks do not heat up and do not emit resin under thermal influence;
The wooden frame must be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting compounds;
Seamless sheet often exceeds the dimensions of conventional panels, so it requires reinforced fasteners. Most often, builders use special screws or nails. When working in a building made of concrete slabs, even dowels can be used;
If the method of installation on walls without a frame is chosen, then before starting work, the old coating is completely dismantled, the walls and ceiling are leveled, as well as their primer.

Do-it-yourself lining installation: instructions, video

What does the installation of lining include? Features of installation work. Installation instructions and tips for choosing lining.

Do-it-yourself lining installation - complete work instructions

Modern buildings are dominated by artificial materials. Houses are built of reinforced concrete, but living in these buildings is cold and uncomfortable. Therefore, when arranging housing, you still want to use natural materials. If you have a desire to live in a wooden house, but the financial possibilities do not allow it, opt for a wooden lining.

What is needed for plating and how much it can cost

If you decide to use the lining as a facing material, it is worth evaluating your future costs.

The cost, depending on the material, its quality and the type of panels, varies greatly ( from 180 to 1300 rubles per m2).

Plastic and MDF panels are cheaper than those made from natural wood, and of the variety of available types, the most expensive is a block house.

Prices for the installation of lining vary from 150 to 500 rubles per m2, while the crate will cost 100 - 300 rubles. Sometimes the work can be more expensive, it all depends on the image of the specialists or the company performing the installation work.

Having decided on the type of lining and timber, it is worth considering the need for related elements:

tools (perforator, screwdriver, drill, spirit level, hammer and pliers, plumb line);
materials for insulation and waterproofing;
means for processing (paint, varnish, stain, etc.);
parts for fasteners (brackets, anchor screws, wood screws, nails).

Having calculated the cost of materials and components, how much it costs to install a lining, you may decide to do it yourself. Moreover, special skills are not required for this.

Processing and coating

Before you start covering the room, the material must be prepared.

Cover the panels with bio protective agents to prevent the formation of mold, the appearance of harmful insects and decay.
Dry the material.
Leave for several days in the room where it is planned to be installed. This will give the panels time to adjust to the temperature and humidity, which in turn will ensure a quality installation without subsequent shrinkage.

Wood stains, oils or others wood tinting compounds are applied before installation. This is due to the fact that low humidity leads to shrinkage (width may decrease within 1 mm). If you plan to cover it with varnish or paint, then this can be done after the completion of the installation work.

So, the panels can be covered with colorless compositions, varnished, tinted, special oils will help to give them an exterior like valuable breeds or painted.

The use of glossy varnishes and other synthetic-based decoration compositions is prohibited, especially for interior work. When sheathing a steam room with wood, you should not cover it with anything.

Lathing installation

Do-it-yourself lining installation begins with the installation of the crate. If the walls and ceilings in the room are even wooden, then the lining can be attached directly to them, but in 99% this is not the case.

Therefore, it is impossible to do without installing a crate, which will become a supporting structure.

First you need to choose a direction, in which the panels will be mounted. In the frame, the beam should be perpendicular to this direction. Horizontal laying will visually expand the room, and vertical laying will raise the ceiling.

The crate can be made of metal profile or wood. For lathing, slats with a cross section of 20x40 or 25x50 mm are used, they can be easily bought at specialized outlets or, if there are inch wooden boards, made independently by cutting with an electric saw.

It is better to use coniferous wood, it is not so affected by changes in humidity and temperature.

We proceed directly to the creation of the supporting frame. If the wall will be sheathed vertically, we fix the first beam horizontally under the ceiling:

using a level, we outline a line parallel to it, mounting brackets will be installed along it;
using an impact drill and anchor screws, we install brackets at a distance of half a meter;
we form a connector under the beam, bending inward part of the fastening;
we fix the beam, fixing it with wood screws in the side holes of the brackets, and wrap the rest of the fasteners to the wall.

All bars in the frame must lie in the same plane and be set strictly according to the level. To do this, having installed the first beam, plumb lines are attached to it, which will help determine the location of the remaining rails.

Further installation of the crate is carried out similarly to the installation of the first beam. The vertical distance between the slats should be about 50 cm. In order to avoid the occurrence of mold and fungus, it is advisable to cover the crate with a primer layer.

Before installing the lining, you can additionally insulate the wall.

Most often, mineral wool in rolls is used for this. It is cut into segments of the required size, which are then inserted under or between the beams of the crate.

For additional fixation of the insulation, you can use mounting fasteners or glue.

After laying the insulation, the joints of the segments must be filled with mounting foam (do not use "extra" foam, it can deform the insulation).

There is a second option, in which the insulation is laid before the installation of the frame, it is strung on fasteners for the rails, after which the crate is completely mounted.

At the end of the insulation procedure, in order to avoid the formation of condensate, we lay waterproofing: vapor or hydro-barrier films (rough side inward).

Video - insulation of the balcony with foam plastic under the crate:

First of all, you need to choose one of 5 ways to fasten the lining.

This method is characterized by simplicity, high fixation strength and the possibility of dismantling if necessary. Mounting the lining on the kleimers is easy to do on your own: they are inserted into the internal projections of the grooves on one side, and the other is attached to a wooden frame.
A hole equal to ½ the diameter of the self-tapping screw is drilled in the panel, after which, using a screwdriver, the self-tapping screws are screwed in until completely immersed in the tree. The holes are closed with a wooden pin and polished. The method is often used in the lining of rooms in baths.
A method for professionals: a nail at an angle of 45º is carefully hammered into the groove, then driven into the crate. To fix a panel of 2.5 m, at least 6 nails are used.
A hole for the screw is drilled in the panel spike, and then the board is screwed to the rails. The process must be carried out flush with the board.
With a construction stapler, the staples are installed diagonally into the groove of the panels, and fasten them to the crate.

Horizontal cladding involves fastening panels is carried out from above, and the groove should be directed downwards, so moisture and debris will not get into the grooves, therefore, it will last much longer.

Fixing the panels is carried out by one of the methods presented above. To perform high-quality installation, do not forget, using a level, to check whether the walls are even.

If the panel is not tightly pressed against the previous one, it can be knocked out using a piece of lining for this, so as not to damage the connecting system.

The last panel, before being fixed on the crate, is adjusted with a hacksaw, the gap between it and the floor is closed with a plinth, and the joints and corners are decorated with special slats and corners.

Lining is an excellent finishing material that will fill the house with comfort and maintain a healthy microclimate, and thanks to its sound and heat insulation properties, it will become much more comfortable to live in it.

Do-it-yourself lining installation - instructions with photos and videos

Do-it-yourself lining installation begins with the installation of the crate. If there are walls and ceilings in the room ... Horizontal cladding involves fastening panels ...

Wooden lining as a finishing material appeared a long time ago, but is still actively used. The secret of its longevity and growing popularity lies not only in the noble beauty of natural wood.

Modern "euro lining" is a technological lining that meets all the requirements of our time. And these include:

Clear repeatable geometry.
Deep, precise tongue/groove connection for concealed installation of cladding boards.
Well-finished front surface, as well as elements of the castle and the back.
The presence of ventilation slots on the back side, allowing moisture to be removed from under the skin and relieve the thermal stress of the wood.
High quality raw materials and the minimum number of defects and flaws in the material.
Low percentage of humidity, as a result - good stability of the skin.
A wide range of models (standard, softline, calm, etc.), sizes, species used, manufacturing methods (solid, spliced, deresined ...).
Acceptable price of eurolining against the background of other facing options.

It is clear that it is possible to reveal the full potential of lining only if you choose the right material for the tasks at hand and if you do not make mistakes during installation. Even an unprepared home master can work with such a sheathing, but before that, it is advisable for a person without experience to watch a video on installing the lining.

Inspection of blanks and pre-sorting

This stage is highly recommended. And it doesn’t matter what finishing material is in front of you: siding, tiles or, for example, wallpaper rolls. In any batch, there is always something damaged, dirty or otherwise defective. It is simply necessary to identify such samples in advance and use them in little-visible places, put them into cutting, etc.

Considering eurolining, block house or imitation of timber - you need, at a minimum, to pay attention to the condition of the front surface of the lamellas, evaluate the performance of the locks, check the planks for distortions that will interfere with the assembly of the plane.

Acclimatization

Another operation, which is usually not mentioned in the video about the installation of the lining. Wood is sensitive to changes in temperature or humidity, with sharp jumps, a profiled board can significantly expand or shrink. It is better if this happens with boards in a stack, and not as part of a dense sheathing fixed to the frame.
To do this, before starting work, the lining is brought into the room for a day or two, or vice versa - they are taken out into the street under a canopy. Naturally, it is necessary to remove the plastic film from the packs.

Foundation preparation

Everything is extremely simple here. The wall is cleaned, repaired in places, antiseptic, hung. Hanging is an inspection of the base to identify differences in the plane and the general condition of the level vertically (for ceilings - horizontally).

On the wall, you can get by with a long rack level, but it is better to use a plumb line. To measure the ceiling, you need to use a spirit level (or, say, an electronic builder), with the help of which marks are set on the walls around the perimeter of the room, at a height of about 1.6 meters. Then these marks are transferred with a tape measure to the ceiling and connected with a chopping cord, along them a perimeter is mounted on the walls from “starting” profiles or from bars.

markup

On the wall / ceiling, it is advisable to pre-draw the location of the main elements of the frame. Here you need to take into account the requirements for the optimal step between the details of the crate and the intended direction of the skin. On the walls, racks or girders are fixed at intervals of 600-700 mm, on the ceilings the frame is assembled with spans along the axes of about 400-500 mm.

According to the preliminary marking of the location of profiles or bars, we carry out marking for the installation of brackets.

We fix the fasteners

On walls and ceilings, you can safely use a direct U-shaped suspension. On the video on the installation of the lining and on the instructions in the form of a photo, the craftsmen very often work tightly “along the wall”. That is, a wooden frame is assembled from a thin rail (sometimes directly from the lining itself), which is drilled through and fixed to the wall / ceiling with long self-tapping screws “through the body”. Brackets are not used in this version. Some workers are a little engaged in setting the common plane with linings and wedges, but basically they don’t bother with this action at all.

To get a truly flat sheer plane is obtained exclusively on perforated brackets. Moreover, you can’t get away from them if the frame needs to be somehow significantly moved away from the wall, or when you need to assemble a reliable and durable ceiling.
We recommend keeping the bracket spacing from each other on the wall within 600-800 mm, on the ceiling it makes sense to put them more often - with a distance of about 500-600 mm.

We fix the main parts of the frame

The frame for lining can be made of galvanized steel profile. You just have to work with clamps and self-tapping screws for LN metal. In the vast majority of cases, a dry planed bar or a dried edged coniferous bar with a section of 50X50 or 50X40 mm is taken for the frame.

The assembly of the frame always begins with the extreme profiles / bars of the plane, which are then used as lighthouse elements, along which the control cords are pulled. The remaining bars of the carrier subsystem are placed along the control cords in a single target.

The bars are fastened with wood screws 30-35 mm long (it is advisable to take screw models with a press washer) through perforations in the brackets. In this work, it is very important to alternately expose the bars so that they do not touch the control cord with their front side, but become very close to it - about 1 millimeter.
After setting the frame, we recommend checking its flatness using a long rule: vertically, horizontally, diagonally.

Laying the insulation

Insulation in the form of plates is laid at a distance between the racks of a wooden frame, or behind them. On the ceiling, you can use mineral wool in mats. When covering surfaces in rooms - insulation, as well as soundproofing materials, must be protected with building films.

On the outer walls inside the house, this will be a vapor barrier sheet, which is glued with adhesive tape at the seams and in the junction areas. On the facade, it will be a waterproofing membrane.

We cut and fix the planks of the lining

The lining must be cut so that the boards fall into place with a small gap, at least on one side. A technological gap of 10-15 mm is necessary to ensure the temperature and humidity expansion of the material, it also allows you to interrupt the structural distribution of impact noise through the structures of the house. For example, if you need to sheathe a wall vertically, then the lining is placed right next to the ceiling, and the gap is allowed to the floor, where it will be covered with a plinth.

It is best to cut the lining with a miter saw ("electric miter box"). You can work with parquet or electric jigsaw. A jigsaw is good if you need to make a curvilinear fit, they also cut off part of the lock from the first plank and make a longitudinal cut of the last lamella of the lining when the plane sheathing comes to an end.

The first plank partially has to be fixed through the body. For this, special "finishing" carnations are used. On the other hand, this bar is fixed in the standard way: with a carnation / self-tapping screw at an angle through a spike, or with a kleimer (again using nails or small self-tapping screws).

Rarely in what video about the installation of euro lining does it say that you need to regularly monitor the position of the sewn boards. By attaching a long, even level to the edges of the lining, you can easily identify and correct the blockage of individual lamellas vertically or horizontally, or avoid installing a plank with strong longitudinal warping, which makes assembly very difficult in the future. Practice shows that you need to control every second nailed plank or every third, maximum.

Final operations

After completing the main cladding, additional elements can be fixed. These are molded products made of pine or spruce, which mask all technological gaps: plinth, layout, external and internal corners, platbands, etc.

The final touch in most videos about the installation of lining is the protective and decorative treatment of wooden cladding. Although, if the lining is made from the street, then it is better to process the lining with a fire-retardant compound from all sides, even at the preparation stage. Do not forget that it is also desirable to impregnate the wooden frame on the facade with an antiseptic.

Nowadays, the range of finishing materials is very diverse. High-quality and beautiful products can be selected for both outdoor and indoor use. Separately, it is worth highlighting such a popular material as lining. Today we will consider in detail how to fix it correctly.

Peculiarities

The rooms, finished with wooden materials, look incredibly cozy and hospitable. That is why many buyers opt for such design options.

For such an attractive performance, you can use a variety of coatings., from special wood panels to wood grain laminate. However, different types of lining are recognized as one of the most popular and in demand. This material is not uncommon - it is easy to find in specialized stores.

High-quality lining made of wood is distinguished by an impressive service life. According to manufacturers, such products can serve without problems from 15-20 years, without losing their original appearance.

The durability of the lining largely depends on proper care by the owners of the home. Such coatings should be treated from time to time with special antiseptic compounds. They are necessary to protect the natural material from the appearance of fungus or mold. It's no secret that wood is a favorite "dish" of various insects, but with the use of special impregnations, such problems can be forgotten.

As a rule, lining is processed by similar means at the stage of its manufacture. However, over time, the material will still need independent care. Fortunately, the stores sell a lot of suitable products and varnishes that will provide the lining with excellent protection from negative external factors.

Pros and cons

Lining is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular materials. Consumers choose this finish because it not only has a harmonious and natural appearance, but also a number of other positive qualities.

The main advantage of lining is its environmental friendliness. Currently, not every finishing material can boast of such quality. The lining does not emit dangerous and harmful substances, even if it is at high temperatures.
The lining can be given a perfectly smooth and pleasant to the touch surface.

To install such wooden panels, it is not at all necessary to involve professional teams of finishers. Fastening such materials can be done on your own, following simple instructions.
Many consumers note the pleasant woody aroma inherent in such finishing materials. Thanks to this property, an indescribable atmosphere is created in the room.
High-quality lining boasts resistance to mechanical damage and strong shocks. It is not so easy to break or damage.
The lining is not a easily soiled material, however, if contamination appears on its surface, then it will not take much effort to remove them.

It is worth noting the excellent thermal insulation properties of the lining. A room in which such a finish is present will always maintain a comfortable microclimate.
The lining also has soundproofing properties. Thanks to such materials, the audibility of extraneous annoying noises in the room is significantly reduced.
Under the lining, you can hide unpresentable elements such as wires and various communications.

This finish can be used not only in a country or village house, but also in an ordinary city apartment.
Clapboard can finish not only the walls, but also the ceiling. Ceilings designed in this way look very aesthetically pleasing and neat.

Of course, lining has its drawbacks. You should also familiarize yourself with them if you want to refer to this material in the design of your home.

To install the lining often requires a frame. Most often, such mounting structures have to be addressed when it comes to finishing the ceiling. Also, you can’t do without a frame if the walls in the room are too uneven and have noticeable differences.

The disadvantages of lining include the fact that it is not fireproof. Of course, this quality can be corrected if the material is processed with special means, but even they will not make such raw materials 100% non-flammable.
Over the years, lining can change its geometric parameters. Most often, such deformations occur if the owners improperly looked after the finish or mounted it incorrectly.
Lining cannot be called a cheap material. Moreover, many consumers consider it quite expensive.
It was mentioned above that the lining must be periodically looked after, treated with special protective compounds. Most consumers consider this feature to be a disadvantage.

Kinds

There are several types of lining. They are made from different materials and have different performance characteristics. Let's consider them in more detail.

Wooden

The most popular is rightfully recognized lining made of wood.

The process of its manufacture is quite complex and takes place in several stages. The proper quality of such a finishing material can be achieved, only if you strictly adhere to a certain technology:

first, the edged board is prepared;
after that it is dried in a special industrial way;
further work is carried out on cutting grooves;
then the wooden lining is carefully polished;
at the end of all production processes, the resulting panels are always sorted.

The properties of wooden lining largely depend on the type of wood from which it is made.

Aspen

Aspen boards are distinguished by a light shade. There are practically no resins in their composition. Such materials boast good thermal insulation characteristics, so they are often used for interior decoration.

Aspen lining can also be installed in baths or saunas. Of course, in such cases, one should not forget about the high-quality processing of the material so that it does not rot.

From spruce

As a rule, northern spruce is used for the manufacture of lining. It is quite dense and hard wood. Such finishing materials can decorate not only the walls in the dwelling, but also the ceiling.

Spruce lining is not afraid of dampness and moisture. However, it should be borne in mind that over time it changes its color and becomes darker.

from pine

Pine lining is one of the most common. It is inexpensive, but has excellent quality, so many consumers choose it.

Pine lining is distinguished by a beautiful natural structure, which also becomes darker over time.

from oak

Oak lining is expensive, but this does not affect its popularity. Such a finishing material is not subject to decay and is easy to process.

The main advantages of oak lining are its amazing color and structure. With the help of such decoration, you can transform the interior, making it richer and more solid. Experts say that oak lining must be stained and pickled.

Hardwood

Lining made of hardwood practically does not emit resins and is characterized by low density. Thanks to these characteristics, it can be safely used in the lining of a bath or sauna.

Wooden lining can also have a different cross section.

Standard. Such panels are equipped with a standard thorn-groove locking system. As a rule, the spikes in the lining are always slightly shorter than the grooves. This is necessary so that with a strong drying of the wood, deformation of the material does not occur. Panels with a standard section have good sound and heat insulation.
"Calm". Otherwise, panels with such a cross section are called "collective farmer". They have rounded outer corners. Such materials look very neat and tidy.
Eurolining. Such types of wooden lining have a longer groove, so as a result the surface takes on a completely different appearance.
Softline. Such finishing materials also have rounded bevels and a long groove.

Also lining made of wood is divided into classes.

"BUT". This class includes high quality panels. Small knots are sometimes visible on their surface, but they do not fall out. Also on such materials you can find a few small slits and cracks. Clapboard class "A" can be safely used for interior decoration.
"AT". Planks of this class have a length of 1.5 m. On their surface there can be no more than 3-4 knots. Also, these types of lining have small resin pockets and non-through slots. Experts do not recommend the use of such materials for interior cladding.
"FROM". Materials in this class are not of high quality. As a rule, they decorate outbuildings for which design is not so important. In such slats, noticeable knots can fall out, and also there are often through cracks. Their color is far from the standard.
"Extra". Clapboard class "Extra" is an ideal finishing material. There are no defects on the surface of such panels.

metal

Instead of wood, you can use metal lining. Most often, such facing materials are used when it is necessary to arrange a base that is in conditions of high humidity. Such panels are not afraid of negative external influences and protect the base on which they are installed from them.

Many consumers opt for a metal lining, as it has an almost unlimited service life. She does not require complex and regular care, which speaks of her unpretentiousness.

Metal lining is good because it is presented in a very rich color spectrum. In addition, this finishing material may have a different texture.

The advantage of metal panels is that they are non-flammable and do not support combustion. Popular wooden coatings cannot boast of such qualities.

Such materials are also environmentally friendly. They do not contain hazardous compounds that are harmful to human health. You can install a metal lining with your own hands. Moreover, this material can be mounted both on the wall and on the ceiling.

plastic

If metal and wood types of lining seem too expensive for you, then you should look for more affordable plastic options. Such coatings are made of polyvinyl chloride. This material is safe for human health, so you don’t have to worry about the well-being of the household.

As a rule, the width of PVC lining is 10 cm. Wooden elements have similar parameters. In addition, plastic panels can be used not only for interior, but also for exterior decoration of the home.

Plastic lining is not only monophonic, but also multi-colored. In some stores, you can also find more original materials that have interesting prints or patterns. Especially popular today are panels that imitate natural wood.

For exterior decoration, it is recommended to use a special frost-resistant lining. For its manufacture, special plastic is used, supplemented with the necessary additives. Such a finishing material easily tolerates both low and high temperatures.

Plastic lining for outdoor work cannot boast such a wide selection of different colors. Here, as a rule, monochrome versions of soothing tones are used, as well as wood-like coatings.

The advantages of PVC lining include:

heat and noise insulation properties;
fire safety;
resistance to high temperatures;
resistance to mechanical damage;

moisture permeability;
light weight;
democratic cost (especially when compared with natural wood materials);
unpretentiousness.

Plastic lining does not need to be regularly looked after using expensive products. In addition, it is very easy to remove dirt and dust.

Wall preparation

Before mounting the lining (especially if it is wooden), it is necessary to prepare the walls with high quality. After purchase, the lining itself should be placed in a dry room for at least a day. There it should settle and adapt to room temperature. Only after that you can start cutting the finishing material to give it the desired length. If you neglect this stage of work, the panels will not be tightly attached to each other.

As for the walls themselves, they will need to provide good vapor barrier. To do this, they first need to nail the slats. Their width should not be less than 3 cm. These elements must be nailed in 1 m increments. Then you need to take a film of polyethylene, foil or roofing felt and install it on fixed rails. Small holes should be made at the top and bottom of the vapor barrier to provide better ventilation.

This stage cannot be called strictly mandatory, however, experts recommend using it if we are talking about a room with a high level of humidity from the outside.

Next, you need to build a high-quality crate for wooden lamellas. Reiki with a cross section of 20x40 cm must be screwed with a screwdriver. Keep a step of 40-50 cm (horizontally). Constantly check the correct installation of all parts using the mounting level.

With the help of rails, you can qualitatively level the wall before installing the lining. Thus, the boards will be much easier to attach to the base. In addition, such a frame should also be assembled so that the gap between the ceiling and the wood trim is ventilated.

If the walls do not have a flat surface, then something additional needs to be laid under the crate. You can also build a crate of greater thickness. For lining, a sheet of plywood, a block of wood or a mounting wedge is best suited. The crate should be fixed with long self-tapping screws and dowel-nails. The lower rails should recede 5 cm from the floor, as there will be a plinth in this area. The same indentation should be followed in the upper part of the structure, since there will also be a plinth, but already a ceiling one.

The crate must be mounted around door or window openings. Such structures are made not only from wood, but also from metal or plastic.

If you did not install a vapor barrier on the base, then the crate should be mounted directly to the wall. If it is present:

if the rails to which the vapor barrier was attached were fixed vertically, then the details of the crate should be installed horizontally and vice versa;
fastening the crate to the rails, on which the vapor barrier layer lies, must be done with long self-tapping screws.

In the "windows" that appear, insulation should be laid. Experts recommend purchasing mineral wool for this. The insulation should be fixed with polypropylene spar so that it does not shrink over time.

On the insulation, you can lay another layer of vapor barrier. It should be attached with the rough side to the insulating layer.

Tools

For the installation of the frame and wall cladding with clapboard, you must have the following devices:

screwdriver;
perforator with the necessary nozzles;
building level;
a hammer;
mallet;
jigsaw;
electric stapler;
wooden corners;
self-tapping screws;
mounting gun;
nails;
profile (for the frame);
staples.

Mounting methods

In total, two main options for fastening the lining are used. They differ from each other in directions. Let's consider them in more detail.

Vertical

The vertical fastening of the lining occurs in this way:

The starting part is installed in the corner. To do this, use nails, which are then hidden under a decorative corner. If you don’t have this item, then you can simply “bite off” the hats with side cutters. Hammer nails as carefully and carefully as possible.
Always check if you are doing the vertical laying of the lining correctly - any errors can lead to the fact that the following lamellas will curve more and more.
The fixed part must be attached with clamps. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the remaining lamellas. However, they must first be inserted into the grooves, and only then fastened.
Every 5 elements, it is necessary to check the evenness of the surface using a level and a plumb line.
The final lamella must be sawn to the required dimensions.

Horizontal

To lay the lining in a horizontal way, the following rules should be observed:

In this case, the slats must be fixed, starting from the ceiling. The groove must point down. If the finish looks like a rounded log, then it should be installed with the groove up to hide the docking points.
Fasten the parts together according to the same principle as with the vertical installation method. It should be borne in mind that for a more reliable fixation, the boards should be lined with dies.
Gradually descending from top to bottom, it will be much more convenient to fasten all the lamellas with carnations. It is very important to hammer them in such a way as not to harm the front side of the lining.

Material Quantity Calculation

When choosing a lining, you need to understand the amount of finishing material that you need. As a rule, the cost of wooden lamellas is indicated in square meters (less often in cubic meters). However, an elementary mathematical calculation in this case will not work, since the quadrature will be influenced by such parameters as the length of the lamellas, the height of the ceilings in the house, the dimensions of the door and window openings.

There are two ways to help calculate the amount of lining.

Intuitive. Following this method, you should calculate the perimeter of the surface area that you plan to finish with lamellas. From here you need to calculate the dimensions of the openings. Add to the result 10-30% for waste. This calculation method is simple, but not the most accurate.
Mathematical. This method of calculation is more rigorous. To do this, you need to count the lamellas individually, taking into account their length and width, as well as the size of the openings. For calculation, it is necessary to divide the parameter of the surface length by the width of the lamella. So you can determine the required number of lining. As a result of all calculations, it will be possible to obtain a fairly accurate value. In this case, no more than 10% can be left for waste.

If you decide to sheathe the walls in the house with clapboard with your own hands, then you Some simple guidelines should be followed:

During installation, make sure that there are no ugly gaps between the lamellas. You can avoid these defects if you constantly monitor the level of laying the material.
When calculating the required amount of material, do not forget about elements such as doors and windows. You need to build a frame around them. Slopes from the lining can also be built with your own hands. The main thing is to adhere to the correct dimensional parameters.

If you want to refresh the atmosphere, then you need to create various geometric images on the floors with your own hands. To do this, you need to adhere to several options for the layout of the lamellas at once.
In winter, laying lining on the walls is not recommended. It is better to postpone such work until summer or spring so that the material does not undergo deformation.
If you chose a lining for finishing, which has the shape of a rounded log, then you should install it with the groove up. This is necessary to hide the docking of individual parts.

Many users are sure that lining can only be mounted on a metal profile. Of course, such structures can be used, but they are more suitable for those cases where the floors in the room have too strong irregularities and drops.
The diagonal upholstery of the walls with clapboard looks original. It should be made on a frame in which the racks are located at a closer distance to each other.

After installation, the lining will require regular maintenance. To do this, you need a wood primer, antiseptic compounds, bio-oil, alkyd varnish, antipyrine, which forms a refractory layer, and other similar substances. According to experts, the lining must be processed before its direct installation.
When choosing the right material, pay attention to its class, since it is recommended to sheathe living quarters with some lamellas, and outbuildings with others. Of course, for interior cladding it is best to use the highest quality materials of the "extra" class.
Stock up on all the necessary tools in advance. Self-tapping screws should be screwed with a screwdriver, as this will take a minimum of time. However, do not forget about accuracy. Work carefully so as not to damage the finishing material.

Lining is an excellent versatile material for the final finishing of ceiling surfaces, interior and exterior walls. Such a sheathing is also perfect for finishing door panels in combination with a similar type of platbands. Regardless of the selected objects for cladding, the panels are fixed every time according to the same pattern.

What is particularly impressive is the ease of working with this material. You can easily deal with clapboard lining on your own.

But first, you should always use the tutorial. This can be an instruction for mounting the lining with your own hands.

Using instructions

Detailed instructions are one of the best assistants in the process of learning any business. In construction, the prices of professional teams for work are quite high. Doing something yourself is profitable, first of all, from a financial point of view. Especially when it comes to simple processes. Wood paneling falls into this category.

For better understanding, it is customary to use illustrated tips. In this case, a photo of the installation of the lining is suitable as an additional visual material. And of course, one cannot ignore the numerous video materials that the Internet is so rich in.

It is important, using all the educational materials, to study all the details, to master the technology. Then, being already confident that no problems will arise, you can safely begin work.

Stages of sheathing

Do-it-yourself step-by-step installation of lining with your own hands consists in performing the following steps:

Carry out preparatory work. The lining is prepared for installation. They are impregnated with special compounds, such as antiseptic and flame retardant. For further processing, stain or paint of the desired color is used.

After the paint composition has dried, a crate of wooden slats or timber with a section of 5x5 cm is mounted on the selected area. The fastening step of the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation plate. Screws or self-tapping screws are used to fasten the rails.

The position of the rails or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future arrangement of the skin depends on this.

The variant of the installation position of the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. On this, the initial order of fastening the frame is built.

Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Do-it-yourself horizontal installation of lining makes the room seem more spacious.

In the cells formed, when using a beam, heat-insulating plates are arranged. Upon completion of the work, the entire working area is covered with a plastic film, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.

The final stage is the finishing with wood panels. The room is getting finished.

The technology for the correct installation of lining on the walls is distributed over several steps and is clearly observed during the entire period of work.

The process goes in the following order:

wall fastening of panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
lining is mounted on wooden bars or slats. The grooves are placed down. For evenness of the panels, a bottom fit is made using a piece of wood board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the skin and the floor.

The difference between fasteners and their characteristics

For fixing, fasteners are used. The spikes of subsequent skin elements are inserted into the grooves and fixed with specially selected parts. It can be staples, clamps or ordinary nails and screws. Each of these elements of hard fixation has its own meaning.

Nails hammered into grooves are among the neatest, almost imperceptible type of fastening. Kleimers are characterized as high-quality fixation. For staples, it is necessary to use a mounting gun, since fastening occurs by shooting.

Panel Alignment Reception

The last board of the lining is adjusted in width with a hacksaw. A decorative plinth is laid along the line of its docking with a corner. It is attached to liquid nails. It turns out a very beautiful appearance.

A similar finish with a plinth is carried out along all the lines of interface of the surfaces of the walls with the ceiling, along the wall corners and ledges.

The order of the ceiling sheathing

Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out in a manner similar to wall decoration. The difference is only in the initial order of the panels.