What to do so that the toilet does not freeze. Report. Frost protection for the toilet. Do you need site drainage?

The owners of dachas and country houses of temporary residence have one serious problem - how to prevent the toilet bowl from freezing in an unheated house in winter in cold weather? Water frozen in the siphon will expand and may simply burst the toilet. On the Internet you will find a huge amount of advice on how to avoid this, so that when you arrive at the dacha in the winter you will not find such a picture:

The most reliable way to solve the problem is to drain the toilet siphon before storing the house for the winter. But what about those who plan to visit the cottage on weekends all winter? Refuse to use the toilet or have fun once a week by draining the toilet immediately before leaving. In addition, after draining, it is necessary to plug the sewer with something else so that the smells from there do not spread throughout the house.

Someone suggests adding salt. But salt water freezes even at -5 degrees, and in our country the temperature outside can drop to -30. During a long absence, even the most insulated house will also have time to freeze well.

They also suggest pouring alcohol instead of salt. But this is some kind of non-targeted use of a valuable product πŸ™‚ In addition, alcohol evaporates over time.

There are smart people pouring antifreeze into the toilet. They do not evaporate, but after flushing, all this chemistry enters your septic tank, killing bacteria or is absorbed directly into the ground (someone has a sewer system). It's of little use, anyway. In addition, antifreeze is also an expensive pleasure with frequent winter visits.

Some try purely mechanical methods - they put several loops of a rubber hose into the siphon. The hose remains filled with air. Freezing water squeezes the hose and does not break the toilet. Unfortunately, no one can confirm the reliability of this method. And what to do with this hefty ice plug in the toilet when you arrive at the cottage in the cold? Pour boiling water from the kettle, so the toilet will burst simply from the temperature drop.

Lucky for those who have a warm floor in the bathroom. You turn it on in winter at a temperature of +5 - +10 degrees and you can sleep peacefully. Even with a power outage, the bathroom will remain warm for some time due to the heat accumulated in the thickness of the floor and heated walls. We are talking, of course, about the electric floor heating system. For those who have gas heating, it is recommended to set the automation for heating the whole house for the winter. The bathroom can also be heated with an electric heated towel rail.

We don’t have a heated floor or a heated towel rail in our bathroom yet, and gas in our summer cottage is unknown when it will appear. Heating is possible only with wood or electricity. We did not plan to go to the country house every day to warm up the house by lighting the fireplace. But here, coming once a week or two, I wanted to be able to use the toilet normally. Therefore, to solve the problem of freezing the toilet, we simply lowered an electric thermostat for the aquarium into it.

The thermostat was taken the simplest, with a power of only 50 watts. He will not gobble up much electricity during the winter. But the convenience of this method is obvious. We arrived, the thermostat was turned off and removed from the toilet. You can use. Before leaving, the thermostat was lowered into the toilet and plugged into the outlet.

This method has its drawbacks. It is volatile, but we almost never have power outages for several days. Another disadvantage is that our thermostat has a minimum temperature of +16 degrees. The house in severe frosts can freeze up to -15 degrees. Due to the large temperature difference between water and air, water will constantly evaporate. Experience shows that it is necessary to drive up at least once every 10-15 days to add water. And because of the constant evaporation of water, a scale crust (water stone) forms on the surface of the toilet bowl. But it seems to us that washing the toilet in the spring will not be the biggest problem.

And for paranoid people who are afraid of long power outages, it is recommended to simply turn on the thermostat through an uninterruptible power supply. Even the simplest UPS will keep a low-power aquarium thermostat running for several days, especially if you wrap the toilet siphon with some kind of insulation to cool down more slowly.

The toilet is a practical building, which is usually the first to be built on a suburban area. Agree, without it you can simply forget about a comfortable stay in the country. Basic amenities are necessary at the beginning of the construction of a residential building and when using a summer cottage as a garden.

The comfort of the toilet is determined by factors: water access, lack of smell, structural reliability, the appearance of the building and a convenient country toilet bowl, which should fully replace the home counterpart. In this article, we will talk about how to put it all into practice on your own.

Here you will learn all about the types of garden toilets and understand how to choose the right model. In addition, we will tell you how to install a country toilet. In the article you will find many useful tips, photos and videos from experienced professionals.

A garden toilet bowl can be purchased ready-made by choosing from a wide variety of products on the sanitary equipment market. If you want to save money, the owners of the summer cottage can build a budget and no less practical design of the toilet bowl with their own hands.

The final choice is made by the owner of the cottage, but before that you should familiarize yourself with the possible options.

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In order for the next year the sewerage system to work properly, in the fall, before leaving for the city for the winter, it is advisable to perform a few simple steps:

1. Prepare the toilet.

The largest water plug in terms of volume is in the toilet, and it is understandable - the largest traffic through the toilet. In addition to the fact that this plug is the largest, it is located in the knee of the ceramic toilet bowl, which has very low deformation properties. Simply put, when water freezes in the toilet bowl, the bottom of the knee simply breaks off. Sometimes this happens very nicely and neatly, so that the broken part can be glued into place, but it's better not to risk it.

When conserving a dacha for the winter:

  • flush the toilet bowl several times
  • Shut off the water supply to the toilet bowl and flush the water from the tank.
  • unscrew the tank lid and make sure that there is almost no water left in the tank; if desired, you can remove the remaining water with a rag or sponge (this is not necessary if there is not much water left in the tank).
  • Drain as much water as possible from the toilet bowl. It is best to use a special scoop for this, made with a wallpaper knife from a plastic bottle, shaped like a ladle. However, you can scoop up water with any means at hand.
  • Remove any remaining water from the bowl with an old rag or sponge.
  • To prevent odors from the sewer network from entering the house in winter, plug the hole in the bowl tightly with a rag.
  • From above, you can still throw rags on and even close the lid, although this is not necessary:

2. Preparation of siphons for washbasins, sinks, sinks.

If you have a plastic sewer and, accordingly, plastic siphons, then theoretically you can not cook them very much for the winter. The water plug in plastic siphons is small in volume, plastic has higher thermal insulation properties than metal or ceramics, in addition, plastic can deform a little, so usually the water that does not have time to evaporate from the siphon before the onset of frost freezes a little slower than in ceramic toilet bowl or cast-iron knee and turning into ice siphons do not tear. If you have cast-iron siphons, then it is imperative to remove water from them for the winter. This can be done in several ways, for example, by using a plunger (plunger) to push water from the siphon further down the pipe. If there is no plunger, then you can try blowing it out with a bicycle or car pump, or gently slip a rag between the drain grate and gradually soak all the water. After removing the water, plug the drain hole with a cork or a rag (it is advisable to press the rag on top with something heavy) so that smells from the sewer network do not enter the house.

I have been using these technologies for 15 years and so far everything is reliable. And yes, do not forget to drain the water from the tank. One of my friends did everything right, but did not drain the water from the tank. When the frosts came, the tightness of the gasket in the tank was broken, the water glassed into the bowl and froze there. As a result, the toilet had to be replaced.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

  • aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 Β° C and retain functionality for 3 years. In high humidity, aluminum braid is prone to rust.
  • Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 Β°C.
  • Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 Β° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - to hot water.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment, flexible connections are also used. Unlike models for water, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

  • PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
  • synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
  • bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and fixtures for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:

  • clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
  • an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
  • high occurrence of groundwater;
  • technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
  • violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
  • the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What causes excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?

  • the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
  • oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
  • the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
  • there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs

Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

  • top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
  • at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
  • at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
  • from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
  • from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

  • with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow on high beds;
  • the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
  • if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
  • the optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Do you need site drainage?

Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, an industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved, and the act of testing the internal sewerage and drain systems will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the object.

A visual check should be accompanied by entering into the test report of internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Residents of urban apartments have long been accustomed to the amenities provided by modern housing. Therefore, even coming to rest in the countryside, few people want to give up such an achievement of civilization as a comfortable toilet. This is not necessary, because even in the backyard you can send natural necessities with comfort, it is enough to build a septic tank in the country with a toilet bowl.

Detailed instructions describing the process are presented below.

Design features

Varieties

Most often, a country restroom is a small detached house made of wood, slate, corrugated board or other material left after the construction of the dwelling.

Before, no one thought about how to put a toilet in the country. A toilet seat or a box was equipped in the booth, in which a hole of a suitable size was made. The ease of use of such a design was not provided. The main emphasis in the design was on functionality.

But times are changing, and more and more people are installing the toilet in the country with their own hands. Moreover, in specialized stores, many different models have appeared, designed for use specifically in suburban areas.

Advice! If your country house is equipped with the necessary engineering networks - water supply and sewerage - you can simply install a standard device that is also installed in city apartments. If you plan to use such a toilet in winter, central heating should also be equipped in the country house, otherwise the water in plumbing fixtures may freeze and render them unusable.

When a detached house is used as a restroom, you need to purchase special toilet bowls that have the following design differences:

  1. light weight. Too massive ceramic toilets used in city apartments are not suitable for country toilets, as the light flooring over the cesspool may not support their weight.

  1. Can be used without water. As a rule, free-standing toilets are not equipped with running water, so you cannot use classic models with a flush tank.
  2. Absence of a knee. The toilet bowl in the country toilet is installed without connecting to the sewer network. Therefore, the knee, which serves to create a water seal, will not work here (another reason is the lack of water).
  3. Special fastening system. Country plumbing fixtures are attached to the floor with ordinary screws. Complex fixation systems are not required and are not used here.

Often in the country they install toilet bowls made of two different materials. You can find out about the features of each model from the table below.

Requirements

Let's summarize the nuances that you should pay attention to when buying a toilet bowl for installation in the country.

  1. They should not have a drain, unless you intend to install them in a house equipped with a sewer engineering network.
  2. Toilets should be easy to assemble and dismantle. The latter is necessary for the periodic cleaning of the cesspool from the waste accumulated there.

Advice! When choosing mounting options, give preference to those that do not require the use of power tools. After all, in the country, especially a new one, there is often no access to an electrical outlet where you can connect a screwdriver or a hammer drill.

  1. Don't buy overpriced models. Country plots at the end of the season are often left unguarded, so your expensive plumbing fixture can become the object of criminal encroachment.

  1. Get models with a wide base. In this case, it will not be necessary to separately purchase and install toilet seats. The wide toilet is ready to use without them.

Mounting order

Now let's focus on how to install a toilet in the country.

The specific method depends on what type of cesspool you have equipped:

  • from ready-made blocks, rings or concrete;
  • from an iron barrel.

In the first case, installation is extremely simple. On the floor of the toilet you need to install the toilet and fix it with screws.

It is advisable to use rubber seals. So the toilet will be fixed more tightly.

In order not to suffer from an unpleasant smell, it is desirable to make ventilation in the toilet house. An asbestos or polymer pipe with a diameter of about 10 cm and a length of about 3 meters is suitable for it.

It must be installed in a cesspool and taken out of the toilet. The resulting thrust will be enough to ensure the removal of gases.

Note! If the toilet is located close to the house, then the pipe cut should be above the uppermost window of the dwelling. Otherwise, the biological gases generated in the cesspool can get straight into the living quarters, spoiling your outdoor recreation experience.

When a barrel is used as a cesspool, before installing the toilet, you need to make an adapter - a cone rolled from a galvanized sheet. The fact is that the diameter of any toilet bowl is larger than the size of the barrel, therefore, without such a device, waste can fall past, clogging the soil.

The upper diameter of the cone should be made along the width of the toilet bowl, the lower one - along the diameter of the barrel. Leave some room for heat distortion, otherwise the metal may tear due to compression in winter.

Be sure to carefully seal all seams and joints with sealant.

Conclusion

By purchasing and installing on your own, you will be able to visit the restroom with the amenities you are used to while living in a city apartment. However, to maintain the health of your plumbing facility, you need to take care of the periodic cleaning of the cesspool.

You can learn more about this process from the video in this article.