Natural wood as a floor covering will look very expensive and solid.
You can do the laying of a massive board with your own hands without the help of professionals, this will save family budget and will give a reason for pride to the owner of the house.
Board types
Under the massive board is understood finishing material, made of dense wood - beech, oak, ash and others. The massif is similar to a conventional floorboard used for subflooring, and differs from it in wood hardness, texture pattern and thickness. That's why batten has two to three times more rigidity and is used as a base. Whereas the array parquet board used for decoration only.
Manufacturers apply a different division into types applied to a massive board. Some divide it according to the method of sawing logs or blanks. Others are divided according to the type of tree. Third in color and texture.
When choosing a massive board, be guided by the following parameters:
- Breed. Classic breeds - beech, hornbeam, maple, oak and ash have high strength, so they last a long time. If the tree species is different, then its performance unknown.
- Color. When choosing a board, determine the desired color in advance. This will reduce the time for searching, and choose what you have in mind.
- Texture. Before buying a board, search the Internet for photos of the texture of classic woods used to make a massive board. Dishonest sellers sell impregnated boards made of pine, acacia, aspen and other soft woods that are not suitable for solid board.
- The presence of a bevel. Some boards have a milled chamfer around the entire outer perimeter. Such processing allows you to highlight the contours of each board and hide the cracks when the floor is excessively dry.
Pros and cons of array coverage
- simple laying technology;
- lower requirements for the base than when laying parquet, laminate or cork;
- environmental friendliness - floors made of natural wood do not emit harmful substances;
- the service life is twice as long as that of a parquet board, parquet or laminate.
- the price is 30 percent higher than the cost of a parquet board and 80-100 percent more expensive than a laminate;
- sensitivity to water.
The pros and cons of covering with a massive board come from the strengths and weaknesses the wood from which they are made. Abrasion resistance is 2-3 times less than that of a coating on a laminate.
The use of high-strength acrylic and polyurethane varnishes prolongs the service life, but makes it difficult to mill the surface in order to smooth out the roughness resulting from the operation. At high humidity, it absorbs water, which leads to swelling and swelling of the coating. After drying, it returns to normal.
To increase the moisture resistance of the board, treat the boards with water-repellent impregnations.
Floor marking
For any array stacking option, the markup is the same. If the board will be laid with a parquet pattern or diagonally, then start marking from the middle of the room. If the board is located along the room, start marking and laying from the corner farthest from the door, located opposite the window.
If you start marking and laying from other angles, the effect of a distorted floor pattern may occur when, when looking at the room, it will seem that the boards lie askew.
If the wall with windows is not parallel to the opposite one, then marking and laying must be started from the far corner of the window wall relative to the front door. When laying an array in rooms with more than four corners, or a non-rectangular shape, start marking from the front door, and lead it perpendicular to the wall with front door. Measure the width of the room and divide by the width of the board, this will be the number of whole rows.
Each row should be offset relative to the other by half the length of the board.
Failure to follow these rules will distort the pattern and weaken the floor. This is especially important when laying a floating floor.
Solid wood laying options
How to lay a massive board depends on the type of base. For a concrete floor, one laying option is used, for a wooden floor, another. Each method differs in the way the board is fastened and the preliminary steps taken before laying.
On concrete floor
floating laying
It requires an ideal evenness of the base, because the floor is fixed only due to the tongue-and-groove lock. Such laying is used in rooms where high humidity is excluded, because when the boards swell, they will displace each other, the floor will swell, and some elements will not return to their place after drying, because they do not have a rigid binding.
A floating floor is undesirable in a room with heavy furniture. When furniture is moved, the floor boards can be pulled out, damaging the lock, and the damaged boards or the entire covering will need to be replaced.
The best basis for such installation is a liquid floor. Perfect evenness will eliminate the unstable position of the boards, so the coating will lie motionless, without vibrations.
To fill the liquid floor, clean the concrete from looseness and dirt, putty it, checking the level differences. A difference of more than 2 mm by 3 meters indicates that another screed is required to fill the liquid floor.
After the putty has dried, vacuum the concrete and pour the liquid floor. Floor polymerization time - 2-5 days, depends on the brand and is indicated on the jar or bag.
After the floor has dried, mark it, and then proceed with laying. Bring the boards into the room and let them mature for 3-4 days. Depending on the shape of the room, lay out the array from the center or one of the far corners. Having laid one board, attach another to it with a shift of half the length.
Insert the boards from the side of the groove, this will allow you to finish them with wooden block and hammer. Press the laid floor with your knee, put the bar against the end side of the board to be inserted, and with light blows of the hammer on the bar, put the board in place. As the board settles into place, move the block to the edges.
Lay the last three rows after you have measured and cut the boards of the last row. First, lay the last row, then insert the boards of the penultimate row by 1-2 mm and raise them by 5-7 cm. Insert the boards of the third row into the floor by 1-2 mm and lift them so that the tongue and groove lock the third row grappled by 1-2 mm. After that, gently press them down so that the boards fall into place.
If you correctly calculated and cut the boards of the last row, then the boards will stand up well. If the width of the last row is less than necessary, there will be a gap between the board and the wall, which you will close with a plinth or fillet. If the board is wider, then it will not work to collect 1-2 rows. We'll have to disassemble them and cut the board of the first row.
Laying a massive board in a floating way allows you to reduce the time and cost of work, and is used for rooms with low traffic. heavy furniture and a large number of people, as well as high humidity, can damage this coating.
On glue
The preparatory work for laying on the adhesive is the same as for laying a floating floor. Because for quality adhesive bond tight pressing is necessary on the entire area of the glued elements. Therefore, it is desirable to fill the liquid floor.
Laying a massive board on a screed without plywood, not flooded with liquid floor, will not allow you to glue the elements with high quality.
After preparing the base and marking the floor, it is necessary to prime it. When using dry, water-thinnable adhesives, add twice as much water to prepare the primer as indicated in the instructions for the adhesive. Usually it is located on one side of the bag.
When using ready-made adhesives, add the recommended thinner to it at the rate of one part thinner to ten parts adhesive. Then paint the entire surface of the liquid floor with this primer.
The polymerization time of the primer is indicated on the bag or jar of glue. When the primer is completely dry, bring 4-5 boards into the room, and glue the place where they are to be installed. After that, apply glue to the back of the boards. Do not glue the tongue-and-groove lock with glue, otherwise it will be difficult to disassemble the massive floor for repairs.
Video - laying a massive board on a concrete floor (two-component adhesive Uzin MK 92 S):
Dry the glue for 5-15 minutes (depending on the specific brand - indicated in the instructions for use), then set the board in place. Press it with your hands in the middle for 5-10 seconds, then press it in the same way, moving towards the edges. Then install the adjacent board in the same way. Press it only after the comb has fully entered the groove.
After installing 4-5 boards, tap them rubber mallet, this will improve the strength of the adhesive bond. The end rows are assembled in exactly the same way as when laying a floating floor, the difference is that they are installed with glue.
Laying on wood floor
This laying is used to replace wooden floors with a coating of their floorboard, plywood or chipboard(chipboard). After removing the floor covering, inspect the logs. Repair or replace all areas covered with mold, blackness, cracks. It's better to do this while the floor is being repaired than to take it apart after a year or two.
Having prepared the logs, check their height with a level. A deviation of more than 5 mm per two meters is unacceptable. To eliminate this defect, use plywood or fiberboard (MDF) inserts. They are made 5-10 cm long, the distance between adjacent inserts is 5 cm. The purpose of this work is to create a flat horizontal surface.
After leveling the surface of the lag, lay plywood on them. The thickness depends on the distance between the lags:
- 40-50 cm - 25 mm;
- 50-60 cm - 30 mm;
- 60-70 cm - 35 mm;
- 70-85 cm - 45 mm (it is possible to use two sheets of 20 and 30 mm, stacked one on top of the other and fixed separately).
After laying the plywood, check the coating with a level. If height differences greater than 2 mm by 2 m are detected, eliminate all rises using a vibrating or tape grinder. Do not use floating laying of solid board if the height difference is more than 1 mm per 2 m.
When laying two layers of plywood, lay and fasten the first, sand it to even out the differences, then lay the second layer. When laying this layer, offset the sheets by half the size in length and width. This will bind the layers of plywood together, making the underlay as rigid as possible.
Mark out the room. Use the same principles as for laying on concrete. Laying on glue provides the highest reliability of the coating, therefore it is used in rooms with high humidity and high throughput.
When laying in rooms without furniture, with low traffic and humidity, it is permissible to use a floating floor, although fixing it with a stapler or screws will increase its reliability at least twice.
Board fixing methods
stapler
To pin use construction stapler, it is sold in hardware and building stores.
Align the board along the marking, press the stapler to the lower protruding part of the groove, and shoot the bracket. Use brackets 12-16 mm. Drive in the brackets along the entire length, every 10 cm. First, drive in the bracket from one edge of the board and check the markings, correct the board if necessary, then secure the other edge of the board and check the markings again. After that, fasten the rest.
After installing all the brackets, run your finger over them. The staple should feel like a medium-thick thread. If it sticks out, take a large flat screwdriver with a tip width of at least 1 mm, put it on the bracket and finish it off with light hammer blows.
Strong blows can split the bottom of the groove.
Adhesive laying
The technology of laying a massive board on glue does not differ from the work performed on a concrete base.
Screw fixing
With this method of fastening, laying starts from the far corner of the window wall.
Set the board in place and press down with something heavy. For example, put two pieces of plywood measuring 15 * 30 cm on the edges of the board, and put six bricks on them. This will help drill the board and substrate, prepare seat under the screw and fasten it.
Drill a hole to a depth of 30 mm, drill diameter 2 mm. Drill at a 30-40 degree angle so that the bit enters the base of the ridge and goes under the board. In order not to drill too much, measure 30 mm on the drill and wind it above the mark electrical tape used in the repair and installation of electrical wiring. The mark will show the depth of the hole.
Compliance with these rules will ensure easy twisting and sufficient fastening strength.
Each board is fixed with three self-tapping screws - in the center and 20 cm from each edge of the board. After that, take a drill with a diameter of 3-4 mm, depending on the self-tapping screw used, and measure 15 mm on it. Install in a drill and widen the holes to avoid splitting the comb and damaging the board.
After that, drill the board with a drill with a diameter of 10-12 mm to a depth of 3 mm so that the head of the self-tapping screw does not interfere with the assembly of the tongue-and-groove lock. Install and secure the rest of the floor boards in the same way. Make the width of the board of the last row 0.5 cm less than necessary. This board is fixed on top at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the wall. The sequence of actions is the same as when fixing to the comb.
Solid wood processing
Preliminary processing
Solid parquet boards are processed 5-7 days after laying. The surface of the board is scraped with a manual scraper, which is a sharp scraper with a smooth working edge. The purpose of the operation is to eliminate small differences in height and remove traces of glue or other contaminants from the floor surface.
If you can get a professional parquet router or grinder, the processing time will be reduced tenfold.
You can use a manual vibrating or belt sander. The time of work, in comparison with manual scraping, will be reduced by 3-4 times. This work is done immediately before varnishing or oiling.
Materials for varnishing and floor protection:
- Stains - they change the color of the texture.
- Oil - impregnation of wax and various oils. When applied to the board, it penetrates to a depth of 2 mm, protects against moisture, fungus and drying out. Various colors can be added to the oil to give the floor the desired shade.
- Varnish - applied in 2-4 layers. Protects the board from moisture and slows down board wear by 50-80 percent. Modern parquet varnishes colorless, to give the coating the desired shade, you can use colors for such varnishes.
Lacquer can be applied over stain, but never over oil.
Oil and stain are applied with a roller, brush or spray gun. If it is necessary to apply several layers, apply one, allow to dry completely, then another, and so on. required amount once. The varnish is applied only with a spray gun, this will prevent the appearance of hairs from a brush or hairs from a roller in the coating.
Laying an array of parquet with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems. Carefully perform all operations, do not be lazy before any action, double-check the markup or calculations once or twice. The material for a massive floor is not cheap, so it will be a shame to ruin it by inattention.
Video - laying solid oak boards:
A massive board is a finishing floor covering made from a solid array of hardwood or conifers, in the sides of which the manufacturer provides grooves and ridges for tight docking with adjacent boards. The floor made of solid wood boards has a presentable appearance, perfectly retains heat, is resistant to stress, is durable and environmentally friendly, it is easy to use and, if necessary, tolerates repeated sanding, grinding or polishing. If the laying of a massive board is carried out with strict observance of the instructions and the initial quality of the material complies with the technology standards, then a beautiful and durable floor from it will serve more than one generation.
durability and high performance characteristics future natural wood floor to the same extent depend on the observance of the laying instructions, and on the initial quality of the massive board. In turn, the quality of a board from a solid array depends on such factors:
- quality of raw materials;
- equipment of the production line of the manufacturing plant;
- modern technology drying.
Solid board: grooves and ridges are provided in the sides for a tight fit with adjacent boards
Quality wood for the manufacture of solid wood floor boards should not contain through holes, knots, mold or rot. From from modern technical equipment the manufacturer and his compliance with the drying technology depends on the stability of the linear dimensions of the finished product. At modern woodworking enterprises, wood is dried under high pressures to the minimum moisture content, impregnate it with antiseptics to the full depth, and then artificially bring the humidity to optimal standard indicators.
At most enterprises, solid wood boards are sanded after drying and several layers of wear-resistant varnish are applied to the surface or coated with oils or wax, and the floors from such boards are ready for use right after laying. If the finishing processing of a natural solid wood floor board in the factory is not performed, then it is carried out at the final stage after laying.
A high-quality massive board must meet the following criteria:
- humidity - 7-10%;
- thickness - 15-30 mm, but can reach 50 mm;
- width - 100-150 mm;
- length - from 50 cm to 3 meters, it is also found up to 6 m;
- permissible deviations of linear dimensions - no more than 0.5 mm.
The thickness of the solid board determines the strength and basic mechanical characteristics future floor. More often than others, boards with a thickness of 20-25 mm are used, but the final choice depends on the type of base for the floor, the type of wood and the purpose of the room.
Types and preparation of substrates for laying
Solid wood floors can be laid in any premises: wooden and stone private houses, as well as in apartments of high-rise brick, panel or monolithic concrete houses. The basis for the floor can be:
- reinforced concrete slabs floors;
- load-bearing metal or wooden structures- lags;
- supporting pillars of the first floor of a private house;
- old wooden floors.
In all these cases, the same solid board laying technology is used, but the preparation of each type of base has its own distinctive features.
The concrete base, if required, is leveled with a cement-sand screed.
Important: it is recommended to lay solid wood floors on fresh concrete only 2.5-3 months after pouring. The degree of readiness of the base is checked by firmly pressing a small sheet of polyethylene to the surface. If no condensation has settled on the side of the film adjacent to the concrete after 48 hours, the subfloor is suitable for continued flooring work.
A vapor barrier layer of polyethylene foam or ground mastic is laid on a dry and even base. The polyethylene film can be overlapped or butted, gluing the panels with construction tape.
On top of the vapor barrier layer, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are laid, previously sawn along the smaller side into strips 40-60 cm wide. Fragments of the plywood base are laid diagonally or in a checkerboard pattern so that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between them, and a gap of about 10 cm remains between the outer sheet of plywood and the wall. Having laid the plywood base, it is firmly fixed to concrete using screws with dowels based on 15 attachment points per 1 sq.m. Screw heads are recessed to a depth of 3-4 mm.
On the concrete base it is possible to lay a solid board no thicker than 25 mm
If ground mastic is used as a vapor barrier layer, the plywood base can be glued. To do this, the mastic is diluted with a solvent to the optimum consistency, applied to concrete, and prepared plywood sheets are glued to it, applying adhesive compatible with the mastic.
Important: on a plywood base laid on concrete, you can lay solid wood floors if its thickness does not exceed 25 mm.
Bearing base on logs
The bearing base on the logs is used when arranging the floor in new houses with a very uneven concrete base, floors on support pillars on the first floors private houses, and also in cases where it is planned to use solid wood boards with a thickness of more than 25 mm as a finishing coating. The arrangement of the supporting base on the logs is very popular, since the design does not require operations with water, subsequent drying and is mounted quite quickly.
Training bearing base on logs: plywood flooring on an already arranged and leveled log structure
Logs are wooden rectangular bars, usually with a section of 50x55 mm and a length of 70-100 cm. They are fixed to a concrete or other base with screws with dowels perpendicular to the direction of the board of the future floor. The lag step, as a rule, is 25-30 cm, and the distance between adjacent attachment points to the base is at least 50 cm.
A layer is laid in the space between the lags mineral wool, which simultaneously performs the function of thermal insulation and noise protection, which is especially important for the first floors. A layer is laid on top of the log and fixed with a construction stapler. vapor barrier material, and in the end, they lay a black floor made of moisture-resistant plywood - the basis for laying the board.
An existing wood floor can serve as a base for laying a solid board, if there is a strong confidence in its strength. Otherwise, it is better to dismantle it and create a new modern base. If there is no doubt, the old floor is polished grinder, having installed a coarse sanding belt, carefully clean it of dust and lay a waterproofing layer of ordinary or foamed polyethylene.
The massive board in this case is laid in the same direction as the boards of the main floor. If a different direction of finish is expected, a layer of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of approximately 12-15 mm is laid on top of the sanded existing base floor.
Before laying a massive board, the plywood base is sanded and dust is removed.
Thus, regardless of the design of the floor base, its finishing layer is waterproof plywood. Before laying the final solid flooring, the plywood rough floor is sanded with a grinder and dust is removed.
Installation methods: glue and glueless
A floor board made of solid natural wood is laid with an adhesive or adhesive-free method. With the use of glue, a board of precious wood is laid, which, as a rule, is thinner than common species, and its length rarely exceeds 2 m - it affects high price. The adhesive method of laying a solid board is also preferable when arranging the floor in rooms with a very large area or a complex irregular contour, as well as in very small areas, for example, in the area of door and arched openings.
A solid board of precious wood is laid on the glue, not very thick and not very long.
At adhesive laying solid board floorboards are glued to the base with special glue, tightly joined together in the transverse and longitudinal directions and attached to the base at the side joints with self-tapping screws at an angle of 45 °, sinking the hats to a depth of 3-5 mm.
The solid wood floor glued to the base is resistant to seasonal deformations, durable, it does not need expansion joints. At the same time, it is very capricious at temperatures and humidity above the permissible and is not at all suitable as a finishing floor covering in heating systems"warm floor". Finally, to replace even a small damaged area, it is necessary to completely dismantle the entire floor laid on the adhesive.
The more modern glue-free method of laying solid board is easy to perform and is always used when working with products equipped with lock system"thorn-groove".
On the eve of the start of flooring work, a massive board should be brought into the room, removed from the package, stacked and left for 3-5 days. This is necessary in order for the material to accept temperature and humidity. environment and subsequently did not deform during the operation of the floor.
Laying a massive board with your own hands will not create problems even for a non-professional
If the base for the floor is properly prepared and selected quality material, laying a massive board with your own hands will not create problems even for a non-professional. Manufacturers recommend laying solid wood boards at a relative humidity of no more than 60% and an air temperature of 10-30°C. Most often, a massive board is laid parallel to the direction of light from the illuminated window itself, but any other solutions are possible, for example, diagonally.
Laying the first row of floorboards begins along the very long wall, parallel to the axis of the floor, with a spike to the wall, align and fix with self-tapping screws so that they can be closed with a plinth. The side of the board opposite the wall is fixed to the base or joists by screwing the self-tapping screw into the groove at an angle of 45 °. Fixation to the base is performed with wood screws, the length of which should be 2-2.5 times the thickness of the board.
Each floorboard must be fixed on all adjacent logs
Important: Each floorboard must be fixed on all logs with which it comes into contact.
Each next row of boards is placed with a spike in the groove of the board of the previous row, not forgetting to fasten it to the base with self-tapping screws. For the most snug fit of the floorboards to each other, they are adjusted with the help of blocks. The last row of boards, like the first, is fixed to the base with self-tapping screws so that they can be hidden under the plinth. A temperature gap of 8-10 mm is left between the extreme rows of floorboards and walls.
Solid wood finish
If a massive board with a factory-applied finish was used for the floor top coat, then the floor can be used immediately after laying. In the case of using an untreated solid board, the newly laid floor should “settle” for about a week, then it is sanded and coated with two layers of varnish to prevent the wood from drying out or waterlogging.
Mandatory polishing is also subject to a natural wood floor if the difference in the thickness of two adjacent boards exceeds the allowable 0.5 mm and is noticeable. The solid board is sanded along the fibers using an abrasive belt with a grain of 0.15 mm. If defects, dents, burrs appear on the surface of the floorboards during installation, they should be puttied, sanded and only then varnished.
After laying, the solid board floor is varnished or impregnated with oils and waxes.
Lovers of natural wooden floors can use special oil-wax compositions for wood coating instead of varnish. Funds based natural oils and waxes, unlike varnishes, impregnate the solid board throughout its entire thickness, creating the thinnest protective film on the surface. Such a coating effectively accentuates the natural texture of wood, while protecting it from damage by insects, mold or fungi.
The practicality of a massive board as a floor covering has been proven by centuries of trouble-free service, it is beautiful, effective, respectable. Despite the venerable age of use, a solid wood board never goes out of fashion, lends itself to any type of processing, up to artificial aging, which is so popular with designers when creating interiors in the "vintage" style.
The floor covering is mounted at the final stage of the repair. At least two months before the start of laying, all interior work causing an increase in indoor humidity. At the time of installation relative humidity air should be 40 - 60% at a temperature of 18 - 24 ° C.
Laying a solid board on a screed without plywood, a plank floor or a chipboard in a floating way is suitable for small rooms, the main thing is that the base is even, solid and dry. It should also be borne in mind that heavy furniture can deform the floor.
The presence of a tongue and groove or “Click” lock makes it easy to install a solid board. This allows the floor to be laid in a "floating way" without being connected to the subfloor. You can lay the array yourself, armed with knowledge on the Internet or taking advice from familiar pros.The advantages of this styling:
- high installation speed;
- the cost of laying a massive board (no need to buy glue and other components);
- ease of installation - installation can be carried out by one person;
- lack of rigid attachment to the base, which allows the floor to move freely during thermal contraction or expansion of wood.
For self-assembly, the following tools are required:
Before laying a massive board, it is necessary to assess the condition of the screed.
IMPORTANT: natural flooring requires an absolutely flat, clean surface. All internal work must be completed before board installation.
Foundation required check for humidity. To do this, there is a device that measures its performance in percent. Ignoring the measurement at the first stage means getting soon:
- fungus (it can easily start in a humid environment);
- warping (under the influence of dampness, the floor is able to swell and deform).
The best solution is to invite a specialist. The moisture meter should show - no more than 2%. There was an opinion that it was possible to do without the device. It is necessary to leave a piece of polyethylene pressed to the screed overnight. In the morning, examine the place under it and if perspiration appears, then the humidity is increased. German scientists, after conducting such a study, found out: in the place where perspiration did not come out, the moisture meter showed 6%.
Test of strength will provide a guarantee for long-term use of the coating. You can do your own research:
- Walk on it. It crumbles underfoot, you can feel the sand - the worst option. This thread needs to be redone.
- Look carefully. Visible chips and recesses need to be puttied.
- With visual impeccability, it is worth walking along the screed with a sharp object. On the perfect coverage no damage will be left.
For laying a wooden floor, the following indicators of the base will be excellent: for compression - 25 MPa, for shear - 7 MPa. Accurate indicators will be recorded by a device - Schmidt's hammer, which calculates the shock impulse under an applied load (another name is a sclerometer).
An epoxy two-component primer will additionally strengthen the base.
In addition to strength and moisture, It is worth paying attention to how even the base is. The allowable height difference is 2 mm per 2 linear meters. Deviation from the norm in a big way will change the geometry of the floor. Check the evenness of the base will help a two-meter rail or building rule(which will be at hand). They need to be held along the base and check the tightness of the rail to the floor. Identified recesses should be puttied, and the protrusions should be sanded.
ATTENTION. After graduation preparatory work debris, sand, dust should be removed. Vacuum and prime the surface thoroughly. At the exit before laying the screed must be smooth and clean.
Substrate
The next stage of work is laying the substrate. It compensates for minor flaws, protects against moisture penetration and creates additional sound insulation. For "floating laying" use the following types substrates:
- from foamed polyethylene;
- cork;
- rubber;
- fabric.
Temperature and humidity gaps
A floor made of natural wood, laid in a floating way, is much more responsive to temperature and humidity indicators than. It is important to leave gaps around the perimeter of the room, taking into account all the elements that come into contact with the board (heating pipes, doors). When expanding, the board will have room to "move". In their absence, the floor covering will swell. The gaps are 10 - 15 mm per meter. With a width of 3 meters, 3 * 10 \u003d 3 cm should be left. For ease of installation and prevention of displacement, wedges are used. They are placed over the entire contiguous area. After all the gaps will hide under the decorative plinth.
Screed mounting
Before installing the floor, it is necessary that the material lie in the room for 2-3 days. It is undesirable to open the package. A sharp fluctuation in temperature will cause the array to change. First of all, you need to cull. Boards damaged in transit must not be installed. They must be returned or replaced before the installation of a massive board.
Spread - from the far left corner deck or in a diagonal way
, perpendicular to the window. This technique is important in technological and aesthetic terms. 
REFERENCE. Butt joints must be shifted with a certain step to strengthen the joints. For an array, the gap must be at least 40 cm.
The first board is placed with a comb against the wall. Next boards are inserted into the groove and tapped with a hammer. The blows should not be strong, knocking only on the bar. After laying three rows, spacer wedges are placed between the wall and the edge of the parquet field. Having planted the board in the center, move smoothly, tapping, to the edges. Additionally, the dies are attached one to one with glue.
Shutdown
The last row should be laid after measuring the distance to the wall. Since walls always have a certain curvature, the values will differ. Each board should be adjusted separately by a longitudinal cut to required size at the place of installation (be aware of expansion gaps). For the convenience of working near the wall, where there is always little space, you need to use the mounting foot. It will help to firmly press one board to another.
We remove the expansion wedges and. His should be fixed directly to the wall. Then it will not interfere with the free movement of the floor during contraction or expansion.
On plywood
Necessary materials:
- grinder (or circle);
- electric jigsaw;
- construction vacuum cleaner;
- primer;
- glue for massive boards;
- plywood - 10 mm;
- spatulas (including those with teeth);
- roulette;
- pencil;
- square;
- coating (lacquer, wax).
Plywood - good foundation for natural board. It is attached to the screed, logs, wooden floor. If the concrete base is in poor condition, it must be refilled to ensure evenness. Having endured time for shrinkage and drying of the self-leveling screed, carefully sand it. All the smallest irregularities should be eliminated. Remove dust with a construction vacuum cleaner. Coat the entire surface with epoxy primer. You should pause for complete drying. 
Cut plywood sheets into rectangular fragments to cover the entire surface. before laying, for a firm fit of the sheets, glue is applied to the screed. Next, the plywood is attached to the cement base with dowels.
Particular attention should be paid to the corners. It is also recommended to leave temperature gaps here: 1.5 cm around the perimeter, 2-3 mm between the rectangles themselves.
Sand the surface, remove dust and you can start laying the array on plywood. Before laying a massive board, plywood is smeared with two-component glue to the width of one board.
Glue
Suitable universal adhesive for consisting of polyurethane mixtures and hardener. We recommend choosing an adhesive without odor, water and solvent. which does not call allergic reactions upon contact with human skin, it dries quickly and firmly holds natural wood coatings. German manufacturers adhere to such a high bar. 
- During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the comb falls into the groove, gently tapping the board along the entire length. To increase strength, each board is fixed with self-tapping screws every 25 - 30 cm. After installation is completed, clean the entire floor surface.
- First, the array should be well driven into the groove, and only then nailed.
- Buying quality flooring is cheaper. Must be taken in hardware store untreated board, carefully sand it, remove dust and apply varnish. With self-processing, you can save 25% of the cost of the same material already coated or buy.
- For temperature gaps it is better to insert on one board - two dies.
CAREFULLY. When installing with glue, you need to be extremely careful. By putting a lot of glue, you can ruin the floor - it will come out from above when you tap the dice with a hammer. At first, small spots on the surface are invisible. They will be "opened" by daylight. It is difficult to remove dried-up blotches. You will need a special cleaner. It should be used while working.
- After completion of laying, a natural solid wood floor should, as it were, stand in complete tranquility for 24 hours.
- To extend the period of use, during the operation of the premises, it is recommended to observe the temperature and humidity conditions.
- Use in cleaning special means for care.
- Do not flood the floor with water.
- Under computer chair put on a spring mat.
- Pets (cats, dogs) running across the floor can quickly make it unusable. Durable advanced coating will protect the surface. True, the price of such products is high.
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How to lay solid board
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Laying massive boards is a floor installation covering, the elements of which differ significantly from parquet in their parameters. During the work, the process includes some features. Only a specialist with the skills and professionalism of a master can evenly and correctly lay out the floor with a board. All preparatory stages will be done from high precision and allowance for errors.
Characteristics of a quality board
A massive board at each end has a saw cut, which helps in lock connection two such elements. It is made by milling and makes it possible to tightly join two boards together using the tongue and groove method.
As the main material for flooring, the board has its own dimensions, quality and laying specifics. In terms of installation, each linear (or square) meter will be sold much faster than parquet dies.
Floor array dimensions:
- in length - 0.6-3 m;
- wide - 6-20 cm;
- thickness - 15-22 mm.
From a parquet board, massive differs in length, thickness, width and even smoothness. Permissible roughness for floor wood flooring according to the standard - 125 mm.
For both types of materials, thickness plays a key role in determining the degree of durability. The thicker the board, the longer the wood floor will last. The thinnest (0.7 cm) are great for scraping, and not for arranging a coating fortress.
Preparation for laying solid boards
To carry out high-quality work, the following conditions must be met:
- The temperature in the room should be between +18 and +25 degrees Celsius.
- Humidity indicators do not go beyond the range of 45-65 percent.
- The space should be free, not blocked by tools or parts of building materials.
- Immediately after the board is delivered to the place, it is not laid. You need to wait until it is aged for about two to three days.
The packed board should be opened exclusively by workers and before direct carrying out installation work. Before the arrival of specialists, you will need to first bring the surface to a clean state.
Base for laying solid board
The board must be laid out on a specific basis. It is impossible to carry out work if the floor is earthen in a private house, or consists of reinforced concrete floors in apartment building. First, the base is made - concrete screed. Then you can choose:
- Lay the boards directly on the new (or old, but strong) screed.
- Or cover everything with sheet plywood, and mount the floor from the board on top of it.
- Or, use an existing, solid plank floor as a base surface.
In the presence of systems warm floors» solid board is not used. During the heating process, the wood will dry out, crack, and the coating will quickly fail. In such cases, the laying of a specialized block parquet if the customer wants to have a wooden flooring.
Phased work
The algorithm of actions when laying a massive board:
- Study of the surface on which the board will be laid.
- If necessary, adjust the baseline.
- Measurements and calculations (if necessary).
- Application of waterproofing material.
- Flooring plywood sheets impregnated with resins and other moisture-resistant substances.
- The first stage of grinding is preparatory.
- Lined the boards.
- The second stage of grinding is thorough, with the inclusion of sealant, putty.
- Staining, toning, or varnishing.
It is possible to line a massive board, ennobled different coatings: oils, toning, or varnish. But working with such material will cost a little more. For example, a varnished board with an additive for glue (or self-tapping screws) can be laid for 1250 rubles per 1 sq.m. And when using wide elements (over 120 mm) - from 1450 rubles for 1 square meter.
Prices for preparing the base for laying
| Screed grinding | 150 rub. sq. m. |
| Mapping the evenness of the base | 70 rub. sq. m. |
| Screed priming. Under mastic or glue | 70 rub. sq. m. |
| The device of steam and waterproofing under plywood. Reinforced polyethylene and mastic. | 150 rub. sq. m. |
| The device of steam and waterproofing under plywood. Two-component vapor-waterproofing primer in two layers | 100 rub. sq. m. |
| Dismantling plywood or parquet without saving the material | 170 rub. sq. m. |
| Dismantling of the parquet board and underlayment without saving the material | 220 rub. sq. m. |
| Dismantling of the parquet board with the preservation of the material | 350 rub. sq. m. |
| Dismantling of a massive board without saving material | 310 rub. sq. m. |
| Offset plywood. Including dowels, screws and drills | 250 rub. sq. m. |
| Cutting a sheet of plywood into four pieces (square 750/750 mm), including saw blades. | 100 rub. sq. m. |
| Sawing a sheet of plywood into 64 pieces (square 190/190 mm), including saw blades. | 700 rub. sq. m. |
| Sanding plywood (machine CO-206 + ELAN), including abrasive materials. | 150 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying plywood on glue in small squares (190/190 mm) | 450 rub. sq. m. |
| Strengthening plywood (by drilling) | 150 rub. sq. m. |
Price for laying parquet: turnkey and individual work
| Laying parquet boards, laminate - floating | 450 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying lacquered engineering / parquet boards on glue and self-tapping screws. Including self tapping screws. | 1150 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying piece parquet with glue and nails. Deck, herringbone, squares | 750 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying a massive board on glue and self-tapping screws. Including self-tapping screws | 1050 rub. sq. m. |
| Lacquered parquet installation | 1050 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying lacquered solid board on glue and self-tapping screws. Including self-tapping screws | 1250 rub. sq. m. |
| Laying lacquered solid board on glue and self-tapping screws, with a width of more than 120 mm | 1450 rub. sq. m. |
| Installing a cork sill when laying parquet | 800 rub. sq. m. |
| Installing a cork sill when laying lacquered parquet + varnish protection | 1400 rub. sq. m. |
