Interfloor ceiling in a frame house. Ceilings in a frame house. The device of overlappings in frame houses

- these are surfaces that limit and enclose its internal volume.

Their installation is carried out on the floors, which are the main part of the frame of the house.

Therefore, the importance of overlaps is difficult to overestimate.

In addition, they close the walls on themselves, forming a monolithic spatial construction Houses. Overlappings in a frame house give rigidity to the ceiling and floor, as well as to the whole house.

floor beams frame house - it is round, wood or edge-mounted boards processed into two edges. You can replace thick boards with thinner ones.

It is important to firmly fix them together. A difficult option is the installation of box-shaped boards, it provides good rigidity, and has an optimal cost.

The dimensions and type of load-bearing beams are determined depending on the load, span and deflection. This value is a reference, and if necessary, you can easily find it on the Internet. The entire floor structure is typical, and this allows you to fix the average loads, which determine the cross section of the support beams.

Load calculation

For attic and interfloor floors there is a certain requirement: the beams are mounted strictly above the vertical racks of the house.

Lining and decking

Overlapping in a frame house in most cases prevents the free circulation of air. With temperature changes, condensation forms on the wooden floor elements.

Firstly, the wood will quickly absorb moisture and swell, changing its original dimensions. And this will increase the stress in the structure.

In the future, this may lead to a loss of strength of the joints of parts and floor elements, which will make their use impossible.

Secondly, humidity is a great environment for growth and mold. Dampness can destroy wooden floors frame house for several years.

Even if you are a person who is far from the construction industry, then you should be aware that without quality floor covering life is extremely uncomfortable. This applies to houses different materials. no exception and frame building. If you properly equip the floor structure, then with its help it will be possible to keep the heat inside the premises, as well as create a reliable support that will extend the life of the building for several decades.

In order to give the building strength, it is necessary to create which will act as the basis for the future topcoat.

Design features of the subfloor

If you will be installing the floor in a frame house, then at the first stage it is worth creating a rough coating, which should be as even, flat and reliable as possible. Ultimately, it will be possible to lay, for example, a laminate on such a coating. The main objective of this design will be a uniform distribution of the load on the surface. So you can eliminate the occurrence of bends and deformations of the finish coating. The device of the floor in a frame house can be carried out using several technologies, but the most popular and relevant today are logs, dry screed on the ground or wet screed on the soil surface.

Stages of erecting a subfloor on logs

If you decide to use a technique that involves the use of a lag, then it will be possible to carry out the work in several stages. These elements are raw bars that are located on the floor or ground. Their alignment should be carried out on the side where the final coating will be covered. To do this, you can use an ordinary ax. Wood is protected from aggressive factors and insects, for which the surface of the elements is treated with an antiseptic composition.

If you will be laying logs along the ceiling, then in the upper crown of the walls it is necessary to cut grooves where planed logs will be laid. Among other things, the logs are installed on brick supports, which strengthen the system and extend the life of the structure. When setting rough coating carried out on the base, the soil is preliminarily covered with a layer of crushed stone of 2 cm, which must be compacted. Legs are installed on supporting pillars, which are mounted on the foundation, and their protection from moisture will extend the life of the structure.

For reference

The device of the floor in a frame house can also be made of plywood, which is installed on logs. This option turns out to be budgetary and is distinguished by wear resistance and practicality. For reliable fastening of the elements around the perimeter, you need to lay small bars, from which a wooden crate should be made. Plywood sheets are fixed with special screws or nails, the distance between which should be approximately 150 mm.

After completion of this work, you can start laying warmly insulating materials by the type of mineral wool or substrate under the laminate.

Creation of a rough coating based on a wet screed

If you will be installing the floor in a frame house, then you can apply the wet screed technology on the ground. This technique is not always preferred because the floor surface will need to be left to dry completely, which will take several weeks. Deadline will depend on climatic conditions. Today, two methods of wet screed are known, one of which involves the use of cement mortar, while the other involves the use of self-leveling floor. The most common way to create such a base is the use of cement brand M-250.

As a result, it is possible to obtain a smooth surface due to the inclusion of polymer ingredients in the composition. Among other things, they give the coating increased resistance to mechanical stress. The thickness of this system can vary from 30 to 100 mm. The screed should be additionally reinforced with metal elements.

Preparatory work

The device of the subfloor in the frame house can be carried out according to the method of laying a wet screed. On the preparatory stage in this case, the base should be cleaned to remove debris, foreign objects and dirt.

At the next stage, waterproofing from a polyethylene film is laid, and a tape must be installed around the perimeter, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the mixture. If the surface has differences ranging from 2 to 4 mm, then beacons should be installed that guarantee perfect flat surface after filling.

Work methodology

When the floor of a frame house is being installed on strip foundation, then at the next stage it is necessary to dilute the mixture and apply it, leveling it with a special bar. It is necessary to get rid of the air bubbles that have appeared with a knitting needle, then rough screed left to dry for about a month. Once the floor has gained strength, it can be used as a rough base for laying any finish, including ceramic tiles, linoleum, parquet board or laminate.

It is better to equip a self-leveling floor, which will become a rough base, when leveling the surface with a slope of up to 30 mm is required. However, it is strictly forbidden to apply such a mixture to the ground, since the composition requires a solid base, such as a concrete screed.

The material needs to be protected from moisture, so styling is necessary waterproofing film. Its thickness can vary from 1 to 2 mm. The technology for laying such a solution is similar to the method described above, however, self-leveling floors dry faster, and further work it will be possible in 10 days.

Floor in a frame house on screw piles

The device of the floor of the frame house on screw piles will involve the use of timber, channel or I-beam. Work can be carried out immediately after the construction of the pile foundation. For binding, you can use wooden beams to which the lags are attached. The span of the beams should not exceed a level of three meters. If the span is greater than this value, then pile supports should be additionally used. For beams, it is recommended to use 100 mm; coniferous wood is best used as a material.

Before installing the strapping, it is necessary to waterproof the base with roofing material, plastic film or penofol. When the floor is being installed in a frame house on piles, after installing the beams, you can proceed to laying the log. The distance between these elements should be 500 mm. For the first floor, logs on piles are used, the cross section of which should be 250 mm. Whereas for the second floor, elements of 70x200 mm are suitable. If the spans are relatively small, which is especially true for toilets and bathrooms, then the cross section of the beams can be reduced to 50x150 mm.

In order to increase the strength of the structure, it can be reduced to 40 cm. Before proceeding with laying the log, it is necessary to make markings that will determine the distance between the elements. At the next stage, in the strapping beam, it is necessary to make recesses along the width of the beams. As soon as the logs are laid in the strapping grooves, they can be fixed with dowels, self-tapping screws, nails or screws.

When the floor is being installed in a frame house, it is recommended to consider the photo in advance. Perhaps this will allow you to understand by what method to carry out the work. Speaking of the above, it can be noted that boards are fixed from below to the lags square section with a side of 30 mm. In order to increase the strength of the floor structure, the bars are connected cross jumpers, the distance between which is 150 cm. However, this condition is not mandatory.

Warm floor on the stove

If you have completed the construction of a frame house, the basis of which is a slab, then it's time to start installing a warm floor. The base must be clean and dry, and the maximum difference in height must not exceed 0.5 cm. Otherwise, the irregularities must be leveled. For this, sometimes even a layer of low-quality concrete is used.

When the floor is being installed in a frame house on a slab, the next step is to lay the waterproofing so that it also acts as a vapor barrier. For this you can use polyethylene film. The overlap of the canvases should be approximately 12 cm, and the seams are connected with adhesive tape. It is important to lay a thick layer of thermal insulation, which will eliminate heat loss. Penofol is recognized as the most practical material. in a frame house, the next step involves laying a pipeline, which is then poured with the same

K category: Walls

Frame walls and ceilings

The walls of the house can perform both enclosing and load-bearing functions, or both enclosing and load-bearing. For example, in the house frame structure the supporting functions are performed by a wooden frame, and the enclosing functions are filled (insulation and sheathing). In a cobbled house, the walls perform load-bearing and enclosing functions at the same time and, according to the constructive solution, are frameless. Such walls can be single-layer, consisting only of beams, or layered, having sheathing on the outer and inner sides, or only on one of the sides.

Rice. 1. Plan of strapping and installation of frame racks: 1 - strapping of bars with a section of 50X100 mm along the base of the foundation; 2, 3 and 4 - racks, respectively, from two bars with a section of 50X150 mm (or one bar with a section of 100X150 mm), from a bar with a section of 50X100 mm, from two bars with a section of 50X100 mm

At individual construction frame houses often use local materials as a filler: sawdust, adobe, reeds, etc. It is difficult to prepare such a filler. It is easier to use mineral wool boards or mineral wool mats in a roll as a heater.

With a floor-by-floor solution, the frame of the first floor is first installed, and then the second (attic).

The frame of the first floor consists of bars of the lower and upper strapping, racks, crossbars and struts. First, along the perimeter of the brick base, we lay out the bars of the lower trim with a section of 50X 100 mm. With insufficient length of the bars within the straight sections, they need to be grown end-to-end. We check the geometric dimensions of the strapping (linear dimensions of straight sections and right angles at the junction and intersection of straight sections) and with a pencil, taking into account overall dimensions window boxes and the existing assortment of lumber we mark on the bars the installation sites of the racks (Fig. 1). If the junction of the strapping bars coincides with the installation site of the rack, then it should be moved into the gap between the racks. Then we lay the strapping on a layer of waterproofing (2 or 3 layers of roofing paper laid on top of the plinth) and fasten it with nails measuring 4X100 mm to the wooden liners of the brick plinth. In the corners and joints, the nails must be hammered obliquely.

Racks located along the coordinate axes with a letter designation (axes A, B, C) perceive the load from the beams of the interfloor ceiling and the weight of the attic. Therefore, their cross section must be at least 50 X 100 mm. The distance between the rafters of the attic frame also depends on the accepted distance between the racks (the pitch of the racks), since the rafters rest on the beam of the interfloor ceiling, which, in turn, is located above the racks of the first floor frame.

The adopted design solutions for the frame of the house also determine the assortment of lumber. For example, if the width of the window block is 1170 mm and the height is 1460 mm, then the clear distance between the uprights must be at least 1190 mm. The window unit must be freely placed between the uprights. It is recommended to fill the gap at the junction of the box and racks with a heat-insulating gasket.

The adopted pitch of the racks also determines the pitch of the rafters of the attic frame and the size of the lumber from which this frame should be made. In our case, these are boards 130 ... 150 mm wide and 50 mm thick. If window blocks with a width of 1470 mm are used, then the distance between the frame posts in the axes will be 1500 mm. With this step, the racks and rafters may not be enough load bearing capacity beams of interfloor overlapping, perceiving the load from the weight of the attic. Then each beam of the interfloor ceiling, consisting of a board and two cranial bars, must be replaced with a beam consisting of two boards 150 mm high and 80 mm wide (two boards with a section of 150X40 mm).

For rack stability with outer side we fasten (embroider) with inclined contractions from boards 25 ... 30 mm thick. Four corner posts and two at the interface interior walls s with external ones have a section of 100X X 150 mm (two bars 50 X 150 mm connected with nails), six racks - a section of 100X100 mm (two bars with a section of 50X 100 mm, connected by nails), the rest of the racks - a section of 50X 100 mm. The top of all installed racks should be at the same mark (check on the cord). On top of five racks located along axis A, and four racks located along axis 1, we lay and fasten one lower bar of the upper trim with a section of 50 X 100 mm (Fig. 2). We fix the struts between the racks (Fig. 3), and in the places of window openings - additional racks (window and window sills).

Now we install the racks of the frame of the inner wall, first along axis B, then along axis 3, then along axis A. Between the racks we place temporary contractions, crossbars, top harness and braces.

It is convenient to fasten the racks to the bottom of the strapping with metal pins with a diameter of 8 ... 10 mm (Fig. 4). The diameter of the socket for the pin in the harness should be 1 ... 2 mm less than the diameter of the pin. The crossbar with the rack is connected with two nails, and from the outside of the house the nail should be hammered obliquely through the crossbar into the rack, and from the inside, on the contrary, through the rack into the crossbar (Fig. 25). Such fastening excludes the movement of the crossbar during the outer skin of the house.

The frame, consisting of posts and straps (top and bottom), is not a rigid structure and needs to be installed additional elements- braces or braces. The strut is supported at one end in the lower trim, and with the other end in the rack in height. The lower end of the brace is fixed on the post at the place of its junction with the lower trim, and the upper end - in the upper part of the adjacent post at the place of its interface with the upper trim. Struts and braces are placed so that there is one, and preferably two, triangles along each wall.

Rice. 2. Schemes of placement and fastening of the upper trim: a - along the racks of the frame outer wall; b - on the counter of the interface of the frames of the outer and inner walls; 1 - bar of the upper strapping; 2- nail; 3 - the joint of the lower row of bars of the upper trim; 4- rack, on which the bars of the 2nd row of the upper trim are joined; 5 - corner post

Rice. 3. Scheme of fastening the strut between the uprights: 1 - two bars of the upper trim; 2 - brace; 3 - nail; 4 - bar of the lower strapping; 5 - rack

Rice. 4. Scheme of attaching the rack to the bottom harness: 1- rack; 2 - metal pin; 3-marking the end of the rack; 4 - nest; 5 - bottom harness

Rice. 5. Scheme of fastening the crossbar to the post: 1 - post; 2 - nail; 3- spacer

The frames of each of the walls of the house are not the same. The wall along axis A has two windows and a door (Fig. 6, a). Window and door frames are placed between the racks of the frame and additionally install a strut. Crossbars and intermediate racks are placed above and below window openings. It should be remembered that the racks of the frame of this wall and the upper trim perceive the load from the weight of the attic through the beams of the interfloor ceiling. The wall along axis 1 is an end wall and has three windows (Fig. 6). In accordance with the width of the windows and place racks, crossbars and other elements.

The wall along axis 3 has one window opening not adjacent to its edge (Fig. 7, a), which makes it possible to install struts along the edges of the frame. The wall along axis B is blind, that is, it does not have openings, which also allows placing struts along the edges of its frame (Fig. 7, b).

First, we install the frame elements along axis 1, then along axis B (Fig. 28), then along axis 3. After that, we place the second beam of the upper trim so that it overlaps the joint of the bottom row and lies on the nearest rack, consisting of two bars. We fasten the bars of the upper trim with nails measuring 4X 100. We hammer them in 20 ... 25 cm.

Two bars of the upper trim with a section of 50 X 100 mm each can be replaced with one bar with a section of 100X100 mm. Such bars are spliced ​​along the length of half a tree. The joint is placed above the rack. Upper surfaces mating bars should be located in the same plane.

The rigidity of the frame of the outer walls is ensured by reliable fastening of the struts. We attach the strut blank from the outside to the junction corners of the racks and strappings (upper and lower), located diagonally, and mark the place of junction of its upper end. We cut off the end of the upper end of the workpiece and put it in place. The lower end of the workpiece at this time should touch the angle of the junction of the rack with the bottom trim. In this position of the workpiece from the inside of the house, we mark its lower end, that is, we put vertical and horizontal lines on the workpiece along the plane of the junction of the strut to the rack and the lower harness. After that, we remove the workpiece. We cut its lower end along the marking lines. We put the strut in place (its ends should tightly adjoin the mating elements) and fix it with nails.

Rice. Fig. 6. The structure of the frames of the outer walls along the axes A (a) and 1 (6): 1, 3 and 4 - corner, window sill and window sill; 2 and 5 - window sill and window crossbars; 6 and 7 - joints of the bars of the 2nd and 1st rows of the upper trim; 8 - brace; O - window opening; D - doorway

Rice. 7. Schemes of frames of external walls along axes 3(a) and 6(6)

Rice. 8. Elements of the frame of the outer (a) and inner (b) walls: 1 and 6 - upper strapping of the outer and inner walls; 2 - corner post; 3 and 5 - pillars of the inner wall; 4- brace

We proceed to the installation of the interfloor ceiling (Fig. 9). It consists of beams, floors, false ceilings, insulation and waterproofing. The main bearing functions are performed by beams (Fig. 10). They are made from boards with a section of 50 X 150 mm with a floor load of up to 200 kg / m2 and a section of 50X 180 mm with a load of up to 400 kg / m2 with and without cranial bars. The bars should be nailed construction nails size 4X 100 mm. It is necessary to hammer nails along the axis of the bars through 250 mm. Before the installation of floors, it is necessary to break the axles of the beams on the upper trim. Beams should be laid parallel to one another, checking the horizontal laying with a building level. We mount the attic frame on beams with cranial bars.

Rice. 9. Beam floor plan:
1, 2 and 3 - beams laid respectively along the upper trim of the outer wall, between the posts and above the posts with cranial bars; 4 - spacer

Rice. 10. The design of beams of tee (a) and rectangular (b) section:
1 - cranial bars; 2 - nails

Rice. 11. Scheme of laying floor beams on the upper trim of the outer walls:
1 and 4 - corner and intermediate racks; 2 - brace; 3 - boards for filing the eaves; 5 and 6 - beams rectangular section and with cranial bars

The installation procedure for the floor is as follows. First, along the upper trim, for example, along axis 3 (see Fig. 9), we put two boards (each 350 cm long) on ​​the edge and join them end-to-end at the junction of the internal load-bearing wall (Fig. 11). Parallel to the laid beam at a distance of 150 mm, we fix the same beam. We fasten these beams with spacers. Then we lay beams with cranial bars over each rack, and in the gaps between them - boards on the edge. On the upper strapping of the inner load-bearing wall, the beams of the interfloor overlap, located above the racks, are joined end-to-end, and located between the racks - apart (Fig. 12). The seams are covered with cranial bars.

Rice. 12. Scheme of laying beams on the upper trim of the internal load-bearing wall: 1 and 6 - racks of frames of the outer and inner walls; 2 and 7 - upper strapping frames of the outer and inner walls; 3 - floor beams; 4 - brace; 5 - joint of cranial bars; 8 - nails

The top of all laid beams should be at the same mark (we check with a cord or rail). Then we fix the beams with nails and lay the flooring from the boards on top of them.

When assembling the frame elements, the following requirements must be observed:
- the bars of the lower trim must fit snugly against the waterproofing of the basement; - the ends of the racks, crossbars, struts and truss elements must be marked with an accuracy of 1 mm and cut off mainly with an electric saw (it is difficult to get a hacksaw quality surface);
- the lower row of bars of the upper trim should be laid so that their ends rest on racks of two bars over a length of at least 60 mm;
- strapping bars must be additionally fastened with nails with racks;
- each end of the crossbar must be fastened to the post with two nails, and from the inside the nail should be hammered obliquely through the post into the end of the crossbar;
- All elements of the frame must be fixed with nails. Nails with a diameter of up to 3.5 mm are hammered at a distance of at least 40 mm from the end or edge of the board. For nails with a diameter of more than 3.5 mm, pre-drill holes with a diameter equal to 0.9 of the diameter of the nail. When rallying two bars, the distance between the axes of the nails should be 25 ... 30 cm.

It is recommended to sheathe frame walls from the outside with prefabricated tongue-and-groove boards 20 mm thick or less, 80 ... 100 mm wide. This thickness of the boards is taken from the condition, firstly, of saving wood and, secondly, the possibility of obtaining relatively accurate dimensions of the tongue when processing wood.

In the absence of prefabricated tongue-and-groove boards for the exterior cladding of the house, it is advisable to use edged boards 30…40 mm thick and 150 mm wide. They need to be processed into a groove. In this case, the number of processed boards is reduced by one and a half to two times, and large tolerances in the manufacture of sheet piles are acceptable without compromising quality. The simplest type of tongue and groove, obtained when using a power tool, is a quarter (with a fold).

For aesthetic reasons, the lower part of the frame (from the base to the bottom of the windows) is sheathed with vertically arranged boards (Fig. 13). We match them in a quarter or overlap (Fig. 14). It is necessary to nail the boards from the corner after the verticality of the installation of the first board along the plumb line has been checked. To reduce the ventilation of the walls between the frame and the sheathing, we lay thick paper - glassine. There should be no gaps in the joints of the boards. The top of the skin must also be cut into a quarter for reliable mating (so that raindrops and sleet do not fall) with the above horizontal boards. Within the limits of a blank wall, the “tooth” of the tongue can completely protrude above the upper plane of the crossbar by half the thickness of the board. Within the window opening (Fig. 15), the protruding part of the tongue must be equal to the thickness of the sealing gasket.

Rice. 13. Scheme of the outer skin of the frame of the house: 1 - rack; 2 - lower harness; 3- brick plinth; 4 - on the slot; 5 - plank sheathing; 6 - nails; 7 - crossbar; 8 - glassine

Rice. 14. Pairing schemes for sheathing boards: a - in a quarter; 1 - rack; 2 - crossbar; 3 - sheathing); b - overlap (1-stand; 2 - crossbar; 3 and 4 - boards 40 and 20 mm thick)

Rice. 15. Vertical section of the window opening: 1 - slot for water drainage; 2 - drain; 3 and 5 - outer and inner lining; 4- rack; 6 - crossbar; 7 - window sill with a section of 50X 100 mm; 8- sealing gasket; 9 - finishing detail; 10 - flashing

Rice. 16. Scheme of pairing the outer skin of the 1st and 2nd floors: 1 - rack; 2-top harness; 3 - vertically arranged attic sheathing boards; 4 - beam interfloor overlap; 5 - horizontally located cladding boards of the 1st floor

All windows in the house should be made with twin sashes of series C (GOST 11214-78). The dimensions of such windows are as follows: height - 560, 860, 1160, 1460 mm; width - 570, 720, 870, 1170, 1320 mm. It is necessary to equip the window opening for specific, available windows. To reduce air permeability around the perimeter of the window, sealing gaskets made of polyurethane foam or other material should be installed.

Gaskets must be elastic, durable and frost-resistant. Before fixing the window block in the opening, check the correctness of its installation with a plumb line and level. The axes of the window unit (vertical and horizontal) must be parallel to the axes of the uprights and crossbars. We fasten the window block to the posts and crossbars with nails.

Horizontally located boards of the outer skin of the first floor should end at the level of the upper trim.

The lower part of the attic to the bottom of its window opening is sheathed vertically installed. boards. The pairing of the outer skin of the 1st and 2nd floors is shown in Figure 16. Then we sew horizontally spaced boards to the level of the attic ceiling. We sheathe the triangular part of the pediment with vertically installed boards. The joints of the rows of sheathing are covered with flashings.

The next stage of work is wall insulation. As a heater, you can use loose (for example, 90% sawdust and 10% lime - fluff, slag, straw, etc.), rolled ( mineral wool in a roll based on soft cardboard) materials and boards. The best insulation(according to heat engineering data and labor intensity of work) are slabs.

The smaller the plate brand number, the better insulation according to thermal data. For example, a slab of grade 50 and a thickness of 60 mm laid in a wall is equivalent in terms of thermal performance to a wall with a layer of sawdust of 300 mm.

For the wall of our design (Fig. 17), with a distance between the inner sides of the outer and inner cladding of 100 mm (along the width of the lower trim), the most acceptable insulation thickness is 80 mm. In this case, a 20 mm ventilation opening can be provided in the wall.

Rice. 17. The design of the wall element: 1 - slats with a section of 20X 20 mm; 2 - glassine; 3 - outer skin; 4 - drain; 5 - base; 6 - waterproofing; 7 - lower harness; 8- joint of mineral wool boards; 9 - nails

Rice. 18. The design of the basement: 1 - lower trim; 2 - brick base; 3 - wavy asbestos-cement sheets of the black floor; 4 - cranial bar; 5 - waterproofing; 6 - clean floor boards; 7 - insulation; 8 - frame stand

Rice. 19. The scheme of laying the beams of the basement floor: 1 - brick base; 2 - lower harness; 3 - cranial bar; 4 - a board placed on edge; 5 - frame rack; 6 and 7 - joints of cranial bars and beams on the strapping of the inner wall

Rice. 20. Cross-section of a beam from two paired boards with cranial bars

The procedure for laying and fixing mineral wool slabs is as follows. First, we fill the wall with slats with a section of 20X20 mm (it is necessary to use slats obtained by processing a quarter of boards 40 mm thick for outer skin) through 250 mm in height. At the junction of the plates we install two slats. The plates are laid from the bottom up and sewn with nails. To protect the plates from moistening with air vapor moving in cold weather from the room to the outside through the walls, it is necessary to lay on them inside(from the side of the room) an insulating layer of roofing felt. Then, along this insulating layer, we fasten the boards of the inner lining.

We arrange basements in the house (Fig. 18). We lay the beams on the lower trim along the roofing material layer after 500 ... 700 mm (Fig. 19). With a step of 500 mm, a board with a section of 150X50 mm with cranial bars can be used as a beam, with a step of 700 mm - two paired boards with cranial bars (Fig. 20).
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- Frame walls and ceilings

You can often hear the opinion that frame houses are one of the simplest, most rational and inexpensive species building structures. Based on this idea, many developers choose frame technologies for construction, thinking about savings and even about the possibility of building a house on their own. Unfortunately, the idea of ​​the simplicity and cheapness of frame technologies applies only to those buildings that do not comply with any building codes and rules, which are being built by guest workers and inexperienced do-it-yourselfers. However, the same can be said about the construction of log houses made of wood with your own hands.

Frame technologies really have many advantages, but only in those cases when the house is being built experienced builders from industrially produced components for frame housing construction. An inexperienced or illiterate builder, working with frame technology, can make many more mistakes than when building a house from solid wood or stone materials. Where, when building a house from massive wall materials it only takes a few technological operations, frame technologies will require a much larger number of technological "passes". At more operations significantly increases the risk of errors, non-compliance with technologies and misuse of materials. Therefore, frame houses built without a project and attracting qualified specialists “at random” or on trust in guest workers can be short-lived, they will soon require overhaul due to unsatisfactory consumer qualities (freezing, wetting of insulation, high heating costs, rotting structural elements, destruction like individual elements, and the entire structure as a whole). Unfortunately, in Russia the list of regulatory construction documentation, design and construction frame houses. Currently, there is a set of rules of 2002 SP 31-105-2002 "Design and construction of energy-efficient single-family residential buildings with wooden frame» , developed on the basis of outdated National norms for housing construction Canada 1998.

In this article, we will provide short review the main mistakes and violations of the technology of frame housing construction.

Construction without a project.

This is a universal "general" mistake when choosing any construction technology. However, it is in frame technology the cost of mistakes can be especially high and lead to cost overruns instead of savings, both due to the use of an excess amount of material (frame made of timber large section) and the need for repairs due to insufficient sections of beams, a rare step of their installation, destruction of structural elements due to unaccounted for loads, incorrectly selected methods of connection in nodes and fastening materials, biological destruction of wood due to violation of steam and moisture removal.

Building from wood natural humidity».

Practically nowhere in civilized countries do they build houses from raw wood, just as before in Russia they never built houses from freshly cut tree trunks. SP 31-105-2002 clause 4.3.1 states: “The supporting structures (frame elements) of the houses of this system are made of lumber conifers dried and protected from moisture during storage. Raw wood is only a semi-finished product for the production of building materials. In Russia, sellers and suppliers delicately refer to raw lumber as "natural moisture" wood. Recall that a freshly cut tree has a moisture content of 50-100%. If the tree was rafted on water, then the humidity is 100% or more (the amount of water exceeds the amount of dry matter). "Natural moisture" usually means that the wood has dried out a little during processing and transportation, and contains between 30 and 80% moisture. When drying on outdoors the amount of moisture is reduced to 15-20%. The normal equilibrium moisture content of industrially dried wood in contact with the atmosphere will be 11-12%. When drying a wet tree, the length of sawn timber is reduced by 3-7%, and the volume of wood by 11-17%. The use of wood of "natural moisture" for the construction of frame houses leads to uncontrolled shrinkage of the tree, which changes the linear dimensions of the structural elements, can lead to deformations, cracking and rupture of wood with the destruction of fasteners. When the wooden frame shrinks, numerous cracks and gaps open, significantly increasing the thermal conductivity of the walls of the frame house, tearing insulating materials that prevent the penetration of moisture. When wood shrinks, its density increases, which leads to better vibration and sound transmission.

Construction from lumber without preliminary antiseptic treatment.

Even in the most properly designed frame house, a certain amount of condensate will inevitably fall out on the sections of media, which in frame houses much more than in buildings made of massive materials. A moistened tree containing polysaccharides in its structure is an excellent nutrient medium for various forms microflora and microfauna, whose representatives are able to destroy the structure of a tree in a short period of time. SP 31-105-2002 (clause 4.3.2) states that all wooden elements located closer than 25 cm from ground level and all wooden elements not made of dry wood are subject to antiseptic treatment.

Incorrect use of materials.

In the classic frame technology, the corner posts of the frame should not be made of timber or three boards knocked down closely - in this case, increased heat loss through "cold corners" is provided. Right " warm corner» is assembled from three uprights located in mutually perpendicular planes.

For sheathing the frame, materials capable of bearing loads are used. For example, OSB should be structural and designed specifically for outdoor work.

Insulation of vertical frame walls is permissible only with rigid insulation boards. Backfill and roll insulation due to shrinkage and slipping over time can only be used on horizontal surfaces or in roofs with a slope of up to 1:5. When using economical versions of low density insulation boards, it is recommended to fix each row of boards with spacers between the boards to prevent slipping. This solution increases the cost of the structure, increases the thermal conductivity of the wall, so it is more profitable to use a high-quality, more expensive, higher-density insulation. The size of the openings between the racks of the frame should not exceed the transverse size of the insulation boards - 60 cm. It is even better if the size of the opening is reduced to 59 cm in order to exclude gaps between the racks and the insulation boards. You can not fill the walls with scraps of insulation - there will be many gaps.

Incorrect fastening of materials.

Black self-tapping screws can only be used for fastening sheet materials. The use of black self-tapping screws in a power frame, especially in a frame made of damp wood, can lead to rupture of these unreliable fasteners with low shear strength.

In all cases of assembling the power elements of the frame, galvanized nails, or chrome-plated or brass-plated self-tapping screws with a minimum diameter of 5 mm, are used. Use of perforated steel fasteners without bandaging wooden elements do not always guarantee the design strength of the frame.

Fasteners of beams and other elements of the load-bearing frame must not be fastened to OSB boards, especially with nails.
When nailing sheet elements or screwing them with self-tapping screws, it is unacceptable to sink the cap or head deeper than the plane of the surface of the material. From the point of view of structural strength, the penetration of the head or cap by half the thickness of the material is considered a missing fastener and must be duplicated by a properly installed self-tapping screw or nail.
The minimum distance from the edge of the sheathing material to the head or head of the fastener is 10 mm.

Since 2012, the International building code for residential buildings (International building code, paragraph 2308.12.8) requires to prevent shear during an earthquake, wind load, etc. fix the frame of all newly erected frame buildings to the foundation anchor bolts through clamping plates with a size of at least 7.6 by 7.6 mm with a steel thickness of the plates of at least 5.8 mm. The minimum diameter of bolts or anchors is 12 mm.

Construction of frame houses using "innovative" technologies.

The most common frame construction technology in the world provides for the sequential assembly of "platforms" - ceilings with floors, followed by the assembly of walls on them and their installation in a vertical position. In this case, it is convenient for builders to move along a solid surface, it is convenient to work with materials, any deviations from the design position can be eliminated before the construction of walls begins, and the ceilings themselves rest securely on the underlying structures. For some reason, domestic builders are trying to invent their own own options construction of a frame house with the assembly of walls "in place", mixing the technology of building a frame house with half-timbered technology or "pillars and beams" with the installation of floors last, which is fraught with the need for cutting or "hanging" floor beams, the need to move along temporary decks, with high risk of injury from a fall from a height.

Errors in working with floor beams of a frame house.

Most mistakes are made with the fastening of beams. It is best to rest the beams on the top trim bearing walls, for runs. It is forbidden to reduce the cross section of the beam by washing down the cutout for joining with the strapping. If it is necessary to join a floor beam with a strapping beam or a beam run, it must be fastened through a backing support bar with nail penetration, or with the help of steel beam supports. The steel support of the beam must have a height equal to the height of the beam and be fastened with nails through all mounting holes. Fastening beams with undersized supports, not punching all mounting holes, fastening with black screws, fastening only on nails without a support bar are errors.

The most common step of floor beams in the world practice of frame housing construction is from 30 to 40 cm. This step of the beams makes it possible to obtain strong floors that do not bend under shock load. Overlapping with a step of more than 60 cm is generally not recommended. The minimum thickness of sheet materials for flooring on floor beams is 16 mm for a beam spacing of 40 cm.

Often, bending beams are rallied flat from the boards, and not installed on the edge.

The load-bearing capacity of floors is increased if the covering sheet material of the subfloors is additionally glued to the floor beams.
The bearing capacity of frame floors can be increased by rigid cross-beam bracing. Such connections are installed in increments of 120 cm and can serve as a support for internal non-load-bearing partitions (through the subfloor). Also, the cross struts serve as an obstacle to the spread of flame in case of fire.

How to drill holes in floor beams correctly:

I-beams:

Composite H-beams can only be cut or drilled in specific locations per manufacturer's specification. The upper and lower elements of the I-beams should not be violated. No more than 3 holes are allowed per beam. One hole with a diameter of up to 40 mm can be drilled in any part of the I-beam, with the exception of supporting parts. Glued I-beams Wood-OSB-Wood have the designation "Top". At self-manufacturing Beams based on OSB should take into account the direction of the force axis of the material.

Sawn timber floor beams:

Mistakes in working with frame house cladding.

According to foreign building codes and the recommendations of the American Engineering Wood Association (APA), sheathing the frame with OSB boards can be done both vertically and horizontally. However, if the OSB board is sewn along the frame studs, then the force axis (indicated on the OSB panel by arrows and Strength axis) will be parallel to the studs. Such an arrangement of plates is useful only to strengthen the weak racks of the frame, working in compression without significant lateral and tangential loads (which is almost unrealistic in real operating conditions). If the OSB boards are sewn perpendicular to the posts, they reinforce the frame of the building to absorb the tangential and lateral loads that occur when exposed to wind, base movements due to soil movement. Particularly relevant is the horizontal sheathing with OSB panels in frames with no slopes, to give the required structural rigidity. If the OSB sheets are laid across the uprights, then the force axis will be perpendicular to them, and the OSB sheets will withstand a large compressive and tensile load. So, for example, in the domestic joint venture 31-105-2002. "Design and construction of energy-efficient timber-framed single-family residential buildings" provides (table 10-4) the recommended minimum plywood thickness parameters for framing cladding: if the plywood fibers are parallel to the frame studs at a 60 cm step, then the minimum plywood thickness is 11 mm. If the plywood fibers are perpendicular to the posts, then thinner sheets with a thickness of 8 mm can be used. Therefore, it is preferable to sew OSB sheets with the long side not along, but across the racks or rafters. For exterior cladding of one-story frame houses, OSB 9 mm thick can be used. But during construction two-storey houses and any houses in areas with strong winds, the minimum thickness of OSB for exterior cladding is 12 mm. If the frame house is sheathed with soft fiber boards of the Isoplat type, then the frame structure must have jibs to ensure lateral rigidity of the structure.

Between all sheet materials of the sheathing, gaps for thermal expansion of 2-3 mm should be left. If this is not done, then the sheets will “swell” during expansion.
Docking of sheathing sheets is carried out only on racks and crossbars. The sheets are sewn "in a row" in order to ensure greater strength of the load-bearing frame structure with chain ligation. outer skin should connect the wall frame with the bottom and top trim.

« Pirogi, floors, walls and roofs of a frame house.

The main mistake in the design of frame pies of floors, walls and roofs is the possibility of wetting the insulation from moisture penetration. General rule building walls in heated rooms - the vapor permeability of materials should increase from the inside to the outside. Even in the floor, where the opposite is often done: the vapor barrier is laid on the side of the ground, and the vapor-permeable membrane is laid on the side of the room.
In any insulated cake of a frame house, there must be a continuous layer of vapor barrier from the inside. "Solid layer" really means that the vapor barrier must not have any defects: the sheets must be glued with an overlap along the entire contour to be protected, without exception. For example, almost all builders at the frame assembly stage forget to lay a vapor barrier under the junction internal partitions to outer walls according to typical schemes connection devices of paragraph 7.2.12 of SP 31-105-2002.

Additionally, all gaps between sheet materials of sheathing in wet rooms and on the roof must be glued. waterproofing materials to prevent moisture from getting inside the insulated "pies".
In addition to preventing moisture from entering the insulated cake, moisture should also be removed: outside, the frame wall should either be sheathed with OSB boards, which are a “smart” vapor-permeable material that can increase vapor permeability when the environment is moistened, or protected by a semi-permeable membrane that ensures moisture removal from the insulation. Cheap single-layer membranes have unsatisfactory vapor permeability, and require a device air gap between insulation and membrane. Also, cheap single-layer membranes do not protect well from the penetration of moisture from the outside. It is preferable to use expensive superdiffusion membranes, which have really good vapor permeability and can be mounted directly on the insulation.

Frame house ventilation.

Figuratively speaking, the internal space of a properly built frame house is identical to the internal space of a thermos: heat loss through the walls is very small, and moisture transfer through the walls is most often practically absent (but can be maintained during use). Accordingly, it should be taken out. Without thought it becomes impossible. In a frame house in each room must be installed ventilation valves, or windows must have a micro-ventilation mode or built-in slotted ventilation valves. Exhaust ventilation must be installed in the kitchen and bathroom. Abroad frame houses for permanent residence practically do not build without supply and exhaust ventilation with a recovery system.

At the end of the article, we give illustrations of the widespread "folk" design of a frame house, in which, upon closer examination, there is not a single correctly executed element.

The typical mistakes that we have described in the article are easily preventable. Before you start building your first frame house or hire builders, study in detail, albeit slightly outdated, but the only set of rules available in Russian for frame housing construction SP 31-105-2002. Paying attention to all the details and subtleties of the creation of the power frame of the building and ensuring the durability of its operation, you can avoid costly mistakes when building or ordering your frame house.

Overlapping in a frame house is the basis of the strength and reliability of the entire structure. It divides the building into floors, provides it with sufficient stability and durability. Interfloor overlap in a frame house is a layer cake consisting of load-bearing structures, insulating and insulation materials. Considering that the interfloor overlap in a residential building is a floor and a ceiling at the same time, this pie includes Decoration Materials. Many novice builders do not know exactly how to make a high-quality second floor ceiling in a frame house. Indeed, this is a rather responsible process that requires compliance with certain building technologies.

A construction cake in the form of a floor slab will only serve for a long time and with high quality if all the rules for its installation are followed.

These rules are:

1. High bearing capacity of the structure. The calculation should be done for the maximum load on the plate. It must withstand the weight of people and furniture without damage and deformation, and withstand strong gusts of wind.
2. Sufficient rigidity. The floor slab of a frame house should not bend when walking on it, carrying even very heavy loads. To do this, you need to correctly calculate the length, width and thickness ceiling beams, methods of their attachment to the strapping and piers.
3. Sufficient level of sound insulation. This is necessary so that the inhabitants of the first floor do not experience discomfort from the noise on the second level.
4. Fire resistance. When creating a floor slab cake, you should choose materials that do not support combustion, which prevent the spread of fire across the floors.
5. Low thermal conductivity. This quality is necessary when one floor is not used for living. A well-thought-out interfloor design in a frame house will protect the residential level from heat in summer and from cold in winter.
6. Ease. Frame houses have limited strength. Basement can simply collapse under the pressure of walls and a massive slab. For its construction, you need to choose high-quality and lightweight materials.

During construction, excessively thick floor slabs between levels should not be made. Their insulating qualities must correspond to this parameter at shield walls.

The largest load is carried by the beams, which are mounted on a horizontal strapping installed on top of the first tier. Fasten the first floor trim frame structure better nails. They are much stronger than self-tapping screws, able to withstand a strong horizontal load. Over time, the tree shrinks and decreases in volume. The nails ensure that the timber slides down to the bottom layer. In the case of self-tapping screws remain big gaps that need to be constantly caulked.

As for the insulation, it is recommended to use basalt wool. It is a light and elastic material with incredibly low thermal conductivity and fire resistance. The cake, in which mineral wool is laid, has a small weight and excellent soundproofing characteristics. Despite the fact that this insulation has a low hygroscopicity, it is recommended to insulate it with a membrane film to protect it from moisture.

From below the floor slab is sheathed sheet material. The easiest and most inexpensive way to make a ceiling is to use drywall. It is an easy-to-handle and lightweight material. Floor beams can be sheathed with plywood or OSB. The lining and block house look beautiful. Stretch ceiling look impressive, but these products are impractical. Access to the space between them and the floor slab is extremely difficult. If rodents or insects settle in this space, then serious problems and expenses await property owners. The most effective in terms of cost, ease of installation and maintenance are plastic panels. This design is installed, dismantled and put back in a matter of hours.

On the beam ceiling of the second floor can be laid floorboard, OSB, laminate and thick plywood. The choice should be made in favor of a material that has the best performance characteristics and resistance to moisture.

Mounting sequence

To build a high-quality and durable floor, you need to know how to calculate the thickness and frequency of the beams. After that, it remains to calculate the total need for building materials and get to work. When making calculations, one should be guided by SNiP. If in doubt, they should be interpreted in the direction of increasing hardness and strength.

The arrangement of the interfloor floor slab along the frame walls is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Attached to harness cross beams. If the girders are longer than 400 cm, then glued boards should be used. In the manufacture of long runs, the boards are fastened together with an overlay of 75-80 cm.
2. Logs are fixed to the beams and on the strapping. Fixation is carried out with long nails and on metal corners. The interval between the lags is 50-58 cm, depending on which material is chosen as a heater.
3. The lower part of the frame is upholstered with a membrane film. Sheets of plywood, OSB or raw wooden surface. This will be the basis for the insulation and finishing of the ceiling.
4. A heater is placed in the frame. All cracks are carefully sealed. The recommended thickness of thermal insulation is 10 cm. A vapor barrier film is fixed over the insulation with a construction stapler.
5. The frame filled with insulation is covered with boards or wood boards- they will be the subfloor of the second floor.

The final step is fine finish gender. The choice of material is determined by the purpose and style of finishing the entire room, the taste and financial capabilities of its owners.