This article will tell you how and how to securely fasten the lining to the walls and ceiling. By the way, do not confuse the lining with a block house and imitation timber. These are different things. There is a separate article about the block house, but read about the imitation of timber here.
Ways of fastening lining
There are three main attachment methods.
The first way is installation with nails. This is the oldest and easiest way.
The second way is fastening with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws have become available relatively recently. About 20-30 years ago they were in short supply.
The third way is installation on clamps. This method appeared quite recently, 10-15 years ago.
Let's consider the issue in more detail.
Nailing
I use various nails to fasten the lining. They come in different colors. Most often, yellow nails are used. They are closer to the color of the lining.
I rarely use brown nails. If you paint the lining in dark colors, then brown nails will be less noticeable.
The most uncommon are silver and black carnations. They look worse against the background of a tree.
Nails come in different sizes. Often nails are used twice as thick as lining. The thickness of the lining is 12 mm -14 mm, which means that nails should be used 24 mm. Sometimes you need nails longer than 30mm -40mm.
Carnations for lining have a special type of cap. It is spherical in shape. When such a nail is hammered into the lining, the hat is lost against the background of the tree.
And then there is a different body. Most Russian nails are smooth. But nails come to our market, the body of which has notches.
These serifs can be helical - like an ice screw auger. And they can be annular, not form a thread. The coils help to hold onto the tree better. When the wood dries out, such a nail does not dangle and does not creak.
Self-tapping screws
Self-tapping screws for fastening the lining have a number of parameters.
Most often, yellow screws are used. O neither is closest in color to wood.
Long self-tapping screws are used from 20 mm to 40 mm. Longer ones are harmful.
The cap of the self-tapping screw should be hidden. At the moment of tightening, she goes into the tree.
They usually choose the thinnest self-tapping screws that you can buy. The thicker the screw, the worse. From thick screws, the tree bursts.
We use self-tapping screws with a fullness of 2.9 mm. (rod diameter 2.2mm)
Self-tapping screws are more reliable fasteners than nails. They hold a large load and are not prone to twisting.
Another plus is that they do not creak over time. When the hole from the nail warms up, it increases in diameter. When you press the lining, the nail sitting in it starts to make a sound. Everyone heard the sound of creaking floors. It often comes from nails.
If you need to shrink the lining, this can only be done with self-tapping screws.
Suppose, for some reason, you need to disassemble the finished wall from the lining. We unscrew the screws, remove the sticks from the wall. Then they did what they wanted. And in the old places, you can fasten the lining with the same theme with self-tapping screws. This is a huge plus.
Not everyone knows
Self-tapping screws and nails are through fasteners. There is also a method of fastening not through. When the lining is fastened with a self-tapping screw from the back.
The secret is in the chosen length. The self-tapping screw is not visible, but at the same time it holds the lining. This is how we do, for example, doors for cabinets from lining. Let's look at the photo together.
Fastening to clamps
Unlike a nail and a self-tapping screw, a clamp is a non-self-supporting fastener. It needs fixing with something.
There are three ways to attach the clamp. You can fix the clamp with nails, screws or a stapler.
Nailing has a big drawback. Since the nails must be small, during driving, you can hit the clamp and flatten it. I do not like to fasten the clamp with nails and I do not advise you.
Fixing the clamp with a stapler is a more difficult task. Firstly, it is difficult to choose a clamp, the holes of which are ideal for the size of the brackets. Secondly, during operation, the brackets periodically do not fall into the holes. Because when you substitute the stapler, most of the clamp is not visible.
After several hits, you can hit the knots, the bracket will bend and you need to pull it out. It takes time.
The most correct fastener of the clamp is on small self-tapping screws. A self-tapping screw is used short 10 - 12 mm, with the smallest completeness and always a secret hat.
Just screw in the screw. Due to its small size, it is screwed in with lightning speed.
The screw can be screwed in at a slight angle. For example, 60 °, thereby pressing the clamp well against the lining.
If you need to dismantle the lining, the clamps fastened with self-tapping screws are quickly removed. And for example, nails will not let you do this.
The biggest plus of cleats is invisibility. Often this covers all the disadvantages of which there are many.
What is the lining attached to?
Since this topic is for a separate article. Let's consider just a few points.
First, the crate is recruited. Usually, a rail with a thickness of 18 -20 mm, a width of 30 - 40 mm is used.
A clamp or self-tapping screws is screwed in the center of the rail. Based on the calculation - one fastener point holds 0.8 m of wooden lining.
Self-tapping screws can be hidden from view, for example, with a ceiling fillet or a floor plinth.
In inconspicuous places we screw in a self-tapping screw, and where the lining is in plain sight we put a clamp.
Over the past decade, screws and self-tapping screws have become so popular that we practically don’t remember about nails. At the same time, in the West, for the most part, only nails are used in frame construction. So which is better, nails or screws?
We did a little test to show one of the main disadvantages of screws, which many people forget about.
So that self-tapping screws or screws made of a metal alloy do not bend when screwing, they are hardened during the manufacturing process. After it, the metal becomes hard, but brittle. This is the main disadvantage of screws and self-tapping screws. But to be precise, only galvanized self-tapping screws (white, yellow) are hardened. Black self-tapping screws are usually made from oxidized C1022 steel, although this is also relatively brittle.
The nails are not hardened, so they hold heavy loads better. If the load is excessively increased, the nail will bend but not break, as opposed to screws or self-tapping screws. That is why they are still used in construction when assembling frames in areas with increased loads. Screws, often, are assigned the role of fastening finishing materials.
Another advantage of nails is that with special nail guns, the process of assembling structures is accelerated at times.
Now a little test. For comparison, we took two screws 6x90 and 4.5x70, two self-tapping screws 4.8x110 and 3.5x55, as well as a small 3x75 nail.
A short video will help you see the difference between them.
It can be seen that hardened self-tapping screws are the most fragile and break almost immediately. Black steel self-tapping screws are more durable, but also do not withstand several bends. But to break a nail, you need to make a couple of dozen sharp bending movements.
This test does not mean that we are campaigning for the use of nails. We just want to show that the choice of fasteners should be treated with due attention. And, of course, there are a lot of places where self-tapping screws will give odds to any nails.
There are more and more fasteners on the market. Even in a small specialized store, it is easy to get confused by the abundance of shapes, sizes and types. But for the construction and decoration of wet rooms, which include a bath, far from any fasteners are suitable.
The most common fasteners are ordinary metal nails. But they are hardened and non-hardened, as well as galvanized. For the construction of a bath, and even more so for finishing work inside it, it is advisable to use not ordinary nails made of low-grade metal wire, but at least hot-dipped galvanized ones.
You can, of course, save money by buying inexpensive products, but then after a while ugly rusty streaks will appear on the wood, and the appearance will be hopelessly damaged. In general, it is recommended to use electro-galvanized fasteners for rooms, and acid-resistant fasteners for rooms with difficult operating conditions (which include a steam room in a bath).
In addition to various types of galvanized nails, specialized outlets can offer stainless steel or copper nails. It is better to use them when nailing the lining in the steam room. The fact is that even galvanizing with this mode of operation ceases to hold after a couple of years. She rots. You have to remove all the trim, including the crate, nail it again. It does not bring joy. So we recommend using only stainless nails or other fasteners in the steam room. These fasteners are much more expensive, but they will not spoil the appearance in any way.
Copper nails and staples do not corrode, but they are soft and difficult to work with. You will have to drill a hole for each nail. But they have a large hat and trim is used. They are not suitable for secret fastening, but if you need, for example, to fasten the lining "in the face", you can use them for decoration.
Dimensions
The dimensions of the nails are selected depending on the thickness of the fastened elements. In length, they must exceed 2/3 of the thickness of the connected boards. Then the structure will hold firmly. In general, they exist in the following sizes: length from 12 to 250 mm, width
- electro-galvanized 0.9-35 mm;
- hot galvanizing 1.7-6.5 mm;
- acid-resistant 2.8-34 mm.
Copper nails have mainly two sizes: 30x2.5mm and 75x3.1mm.
Manufacturers
There are a lot of fastener manufacturers, but two companies have the best reviews: Finnish Ferrometal and SORMAT. Domestic manufacturers often remain anonymous, and one has to rely solely on the recommendations of sellers, and, perhaps, on the appearance of products.
How and how to fix the lining
The lining can be fastened with nails, but not ordinary, but finishing. They are distinguished by a small hat, which is supposed to be hammered into the wood using a special punch or countersink (a metal rod pointed on one side). If necessary, you can get by with the usual ones, but you will have to flatten the hat a couple of times by hitting it with a hammer on the side. In this form, it can also be drowned with a dominator in the thickness of the material.
Fastening with a finishing nail
After hammering the finishing nail, a small depression remains, which is most often covered with wood fibers. In rare cases, this does not happen, then if desired, it can be puttied.
For this, special putties are used to match the wood, and in order for the traces to be generally inconspicuous, the wood dust formed during grinding is added to the composition and mixed well. Putty is applied to the treated area. Use a small metal spatula for this. But it is more convenient to work with small rubber spatulas, which are needed for grouting joints in tiles. They imebt small size, elastic and at the same time resilient. It is very convenient to apply putty on small areas.
After drying, take sandpaper with a medium grain, level the surface, removing excess. Then fine-grained everything is brought to perfect smoothness.
Used for mounting lining and dyukert-nails. They also have a small hat, but it has a slightly different shape - it is slightly concave. This is convenient when using a doboynik, as well as when finishing - putty goes well into the recess, making the attachment point almost invisible.
To leimers (cleats)
For fixing eurolining, such a type of fasteners as kleimers is common. These are small plates of a special shape, which are fixed by the spike of the lining and fastened with the other part to the wall or crate with finishing nails. The kleimer itself remains hidden by the next plank.
Otherwise, only the first and last board are attached. The first is fixed with nails in the lower part, and the latter usually has to be cut off the spike, after which it is also fixed with nails.
The process is long and laborious: two nails are hammered into each element. Since they are small, the work is painstaking. But if you do everything right and choose dry high-quality material, then the appearance is excellent.
Things go faster if you nail the clamps with a construction stapler. You just need to choose the right brackets. They should have long legs, and choose the length of the back based on the distance between the holes. In order not to get into trouble, you can take a piece of wood and a dozen kleimers to the store. Buy a pack of staples of the right size, charge, try to nail. If everything fits, buy fasteners in full.
However, it must be said that there are quite a few complaints from the owners of the baths, who fastened the lining to the kleimers - with significant changes in temperature and humidity, such a fastening can be torn out of the wall. But with properly selected fasteners and a spike of at least 1 cm (this is exactly the size it should be), this should not happen. There are some reviews as well.
Mounting the lining in the tongue and groove
Options for fastening the lining - hidden, with clamps and in the face The traditional way - in the face (into the front of the board through and through) is not very popular, since the hats are clearly visible on light wood. Therefore, they prefer the hidden fastening of the lining:
- With a thin nail (more conveniently finishing) into the groove at an angle of 45 o. Use with this fastening and self-tapping screws with a thin flat hat. The nail is then achieved with the help of a finisher so that the protruding hat does not interfere with the installation of the next bar. To prevent the wood from splitting when hammering, a hole is drilled under each nail or self-tapping screw, which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the fastener.
- Spike fastening. The angle here is not so sharp - about 60 °. It is easier to work, although it is also desirable to drill holes here.
In any of these cases, the fastening is invisible. But the method “into the thorn” is more reliable, although “in the groove” is more common. Why is it more reliable? Because when driving into a spike, you “grab” 2/3 of the thickness of the lining or board, while driving into a groove you fix only 1/3. Accordingly, in the second option, the likelihood increases that the wood will simply crack when it swells.
In general, both methods are far from ideal: the boards are fixed only on one side. This threatens that with a strong swelling, the lining or floor board will rear up, tearing out the fasteners. From this point of view, the old method is more reliable: two nails per face. If you really don’t want to see hats, take finishing nails. They are practically invisible. In extreme cases, fill the holes as described above.
With a construction stapler
Sometimes the lining is attached with a construction stapler and staples to it. The staples are placed at an angle so that they also do not protrude. When using a sufficiently powerful tool, fasteners are driven close, sometimes even recessed into the wood. When working with hard rocks, take sharpened staples. They even punch chipboard into the edge. If, nevertheless, some are not completely clogged, they can be tapped with a hammer (with a finisher, if necessary).
I must say that some models (mainly electric and pneumatic) can work with nails or T-brackets. Both types of fasteners are suitable for fastening lining. When using such a tool, the work moves many times faster without losing the quality of its implementation.
Screw and buff nails
Quite often, during the seasonal use of a bath or sauna, the lining is pulled out due to the fact that it swells and there are not enough compensation gaps. To prevent this from happening, you can use hot-dip galvanized screw nails, which can also have a countersunk head.
The strength of the connection when using such nails increases by 4 times. The disadvantage of this mounting option is the very high complexity of dismantling. Rough nails have a similar problem - the strength of such a connection is 5 times higher than when using a conventional nail, but dismantling is almost impossible.
It is necessary to use this option in baths with great care: the conditions in it are such that the lining often has to be repaired or redone. And if it is nailed with a screw or nail, then it can only be removed by breaking it.
Fasten the lining with a nail or a self-tapping screw?
Oddly enough, people are arguing, figuring out what is better for fastening the lining in the bath: a nail or a self-tapping screw. To some it seems more correct to use nails, to others self-tapping screws.
Self-tapping screws are probably better kept after the wood has dried: the thread does not allow the boards to hang out. Only you need to take those in which the thread does not start from under the cap, but after about a centimeter. They hold the lining and floor board better. The work is going slowly: for each you need to drill a hole that is smaller in diameter. This way the wood won't crack.
With a secret fastening of the lining, the angle must be maintained exactly, otherwise the caps will interfere with the installation of the next plank. When attaching the floor board, the upper part is still reamed. So it turns out to drown the hat. The holes are then covered with putty.
Everything is installed slowly. But if necessary, the entire finish can be removed without damaging. Self-tapping screws come out easily.
It is faster to work with nails: holes are needed for them only when using very thin materials. There is another argument in favor of nails: they are stronger. Self-tapping screws of low quality often come off when tightening the cap. And how many remain “torn”, but not flown away? They will simply break off at the slightest movement of the wood. Another argument in favor of nails is that they are cheaper.
Fasteners for walls made of building blocks
There is another type of anchor for foam blocks (gas blocks, expanded clay concrete and other cellular concrete) - Fischer chemical anchors.
Chemical anchors - new to the market To install this fastener in the wall with a special drill, a cone-shaped hole is made. A special glue is poured into it, a certain period of time is waited, which is necessary for the partial hardening of the mass, after which the anchor is inserted. Fasteners can only be used after the composition has completely hardened. The reliability of fixing this type of fasteners for foam blocks depends on how well the two components “grabbed”: glue and foam concrete. And this characteristic is highly dependent on the quality of the adhesive composition. Therefore, the choice of the manufacturer is very important.
There are a lot of types of fasteners and new types appear every day, so it will not be difficult to choose the right one.
Often you have to attach weighty objects to the wall. To successfully solve this problem, it is necessary not only to take into account the base material and the characteristics of the fixing elements, but also to correctly perform the preparatory and installation work.
It is immediately worth noting that only heavy objects can be heeled to the main walls. It is desirable to take this aspect into account during the design of the building. Lightweight plasterboard partitions can be a good option for separating the kitchen and living room, but only if you don’t need to hang cabinets and shelves on one side of the wall, and a TV on the other. The situation is similar with frame structures made of chipboard or SIP panels.
In principle, "weights" can also be hung on them, but this approach is associated with a lot of nuances. It is necessary to compare the location and load-bearing capacity of the frame, use additional elements to create the frame, use special fixing parts... In addition to the fact that such work is rather problematic, there remains a considerable probability of the collapse of the entire structure. And this will not only lead to expenses for the repair or replacement of a “fell off” boiler, TV, cabinet with dishes ... This situation can cause serious injury.
Frame walls and plasterboard partitions should be used as a base for small mirrors, photo frames, towel hooks, etc. Heavy (up to 50 kg) objects can be hung on porous bases made of ceramic block, foam concrete, shell rock, etc., but using special fasteners or reinforcing frame. Almost everything can be hung on brick and concrete walls.
Tools
To hang heavy objects you will need:
DETECTOR. When planning and preliminary marking, you need to use a special detector that will help you detect plastic, metal, live cables hidden in the wall. The tools differ in the sensitivity of the sensor, that is, the ability to scan the wall to different depths. There is also a gradation according to the type of material that the system recognizes - not all devices are suitable for a comprehensive check, some are designed, for example, only to search for metal.
PUNCH OR IMPACT DRILL. A conventional tool that only has a drilling function can also be used, but working with it will be more laborious. If we are talking about a brick, then in principle you can limit yourself to a drill. But for concrete walls, you will have to additionally use a hand chisel and a hammer, punching a hole from time to time. The puncher itself not only rotates the drill, but also performs percussion translational movements, so it is great for full-bodied heavy structures.
BITS AND DRILLS. They are selected taking into account the material of the wall, the diameter of the required hole, the type of drill chuck used. If you drill in concrete with a light brick drill, it will take more time and effort. In addition, the drill tip will wear out quickly, and the hammer motor will work under increased loads.
LEVELS. In order to hang any object evenly, it is necessary to use a level. And this requirement is caused not so much by aesthetic issues as by the practical component. Firstly, if one corner of the shelf is higher than the other, then a large load will be placed on the place of its fastening. Secondly, an uneven placement of, for example, a kitchen hood can cause an imbalance in the engine, which will work at an angle.
The simplest and most popular are spirit levels, which help to “align” objects up to 2 m long. If we are talking about large distances, as is the case with the shelves of a kitchen set, then you need to use devices with a laser beam or water levels, working on the principle of communicating vessels.
SCREWDRIVERS If a relatively simple cordless screwdriver is suitable for working with wood and aerated concrete, then for heavy walls you need a powerful screwdriver. When buying fasteners with you, it is better to take a set of replacement bits to check if they fit the selected hats exactly.
USEFUL THINGS. Glasses, gloves, pencil, marker, electrical tape, hammer, pliers, wrenches, oilcloth.
The impact drill can handle all materials except concrete and stone. For the latter, you need to use a powerful puncher
Places safe for drilling are marked through the hole in the detector.
In order not to damage the wall finish, it is better to use a rubber mallet when hammering the dowels.
Most of the measuring work is carried out with the usual level, but only a laser can provide maximum accuracy.
The more complex the shape of the dowel, the more reliable the fasteners will be.
Load type
It is important to understand that there are dynamic loads, and there are static ones. In the latter case, everything is relatively simple - you need to compare the weight of the same boiler or air conditioner with the bearing capacity of the wall and select the appropriate fasteners. For example, for a boiler with a capacity of 100 liters, anchors are needed that can withstand 150 kg. But for a horizontal bar or bars suspended on a wall, it is not enough to add up the mass of the structure and the weight of the heaviest athlete. If the frame itself weighs 10 kg, and the person involved in it weighs 90 kg, then the total value of 100 kg does not mean at all that the same 150 kg anchors are needed. Since the load will not be constant, but in jerks (for pulling out), it is worth providing a greater margin of safety by choosing fasteners with a bearing capacity of 200 kg.
The ends of the fasteners can be made in the form of a hat or a hexagon (for simple fixation of the supporting frame), a ring (for fixing the lamp), a corner (for hanging some details)...
fasteners
Suspension of structures is performed using fixing parts, which can be conditionally divided into internal and external. The first ones are driven into the wall, the second ones completely or partially remain outside - suspended objects are attached directly to them.
The type of the inner sleeve, as well as the diameter and length of the fixing elements, are selected in accordance with the wall material and the weight of the structure (plus a margin). In order not to be mistaken, you need to use the manufacturers' catalogs, which provide calculation tables for each product. However, consultants of building supermarkets can also solve this problem.
All you have to do is provide them with the following information:
- material and wall thickness;
- weight of the suspended structure;
- the number of points to fix.
Despite the fact that the final and exact choice of fasteners depends on the individual situation, there are general subspecies of mounting elements used to fix heavy objects on walls made of different materials.
Installation work
During the preparation of the workplace, it is necessary to create the most convenient conditions so that the drill enters the wall strictly perpendicularly. That is, when making holes, the drill should be at chest level - otherwise it will be difficult to control it. To minimize the spread of dust and debris, a cardboard box with a bag is attached under the drill.
In hollow bricks and aerated concrete, holes for anchors and dowels are made only in the "drilling" mode. In harder walls (for example, from solid bricks), holes are made in the "drilling with slotting" mode (with a high frequency of light impacts). When working with concrete, use the "perforating" mode. In order not to damage the material of the wall decoration, you need to take into account its type. If this is a tile, then in any case it must be "passed" by simple drilling without impact. Otherwise, it may crack.
To prevent the drill from slipping, the place of "drilling" must first be pierced with a nail or sealed with electrical tape. The spacer sleeve must completely enter the wall, that is, be recessed deeper than the tile or at least flush with it, but not go out in any way.
The bases covered with plaster require special care. So that it does not crumble and cracks do not go, at first they also drill with simple drilling. When hammering the dowel, you need to be careful not to hit the fragile coating with a hammer.
When the hole is ready, dust and pebbles are blown out of it. Then the spacer sleeve is driven in. It is important that it fits snugly and does not "hang out". Finally, a screw or bolt is screwed in, which "bursts" the dowel or anchor and makes the fixing element solid and strong.
How to use concrete anchors
